Womenswear Winter 2014 Issue by GMT STYLE

WOMENSWEAR

GMT STYLE WINTER 2014

CONTENTS A/W

2014

NEWS WORDS

LIAT SHAAF NIA ARONOFFSKY

CELEBRITY STYLIST WORDS

MARIA MARTIN - CARO

DESIGNER FOCUS WORDS

STYLE INSIDER KATIE NASH WORDS

MARIA MARTIN - CARO

CATWALK TRENDS WORDS

STYLE GUIDE

MARIA MARTIN - CARO LIAT SHAAF

GET THE LOOK WORDS

MUST HAVE

DAISY BRYSON

EDITORIAL

EDITORIAL TEAM MARIA MARTIN - CARO Editor - In - Chief

ANNA ZATS

Assistant Editor - In - Chief

LIAT SHAAF Fashion Editor

DAISY BRYSON Stylist

MARIA KRISNEL PAYUMO Graphic Designer

NEWS

ebauched ebutantes

AW14 Collection

There’s A Part-ay In da House – Of Holland! By Liat Shaaf

enry Holland is inviting each and every one of you to an 80’s-70’s mix party! Now, would you say no to that? House Of Holland’s Debauched Debutantes AW14 Collection is a festival of colours and textures. Acid green, overwhelming fuchsia and shocking red, deep purple and mustard yellow, orange and black, and of course, the all-party favourite - silver and fluorescent blue, creating exquisitely quirky and wonderful staples that would give every happy party goer something to really party about. Combine it with shiny metallic leathers and delicate see-through chiffons, lots of glitter and glamour and you got yourself a night to remember. Actually, come to think of it – this is so much more than a party. This is a royal ball! So you better show up with a killer look!

hearling-trimmed coat, big and wide fur collar and cuffs coat, turtle neck printed tees (one with a “Rich Bitch” slogan and another printed with juicy tabloids gossip news), boxy tops, metallic track-suit pants cuffed mid-ankle and metallic blue pencil skirt – perhaps the most iconic garment in this collection, 70’s inspired suits of printed silk, bomber jackets, knee-length dresses of 70’s inspired prints, a knee-length sporty jacket, vertical striped skirt and dress, fringed blouses of sheer chiffon and silk, denim pants with red and orange fur embellishments, cropped jacket and cigar pants, lipstick and Champaign motives details on velvet, polka dot and pearls motives, and lots and lots of shiny glitters and sequins. Oh, yes, Mr. Holland will make sure you look your best – a knockout, for sure. And, don’t forget the furry pompom sandals or the pearl string-tie sandals, Cinderella. Especially if you really feel tonight is the night you will meet your prince charming at the ball. This collection is certainly not for a wall-flower, but for a very confident and glamorous lady, and is guaranteed to get you some admirers.

Inside Celebrity Stylist’ By Maria Martin - Caro Editor in Chief

ALEXIS KNOX

hen did you start styling and how did that happen?

When I finished studying I knew I wanted to embark on a creative career, so I moved to London and tried my hand at lots of different things, focusing on tv production and fashion styling. Because of my natural sense of style, The fashion assisting work really took off, and before I knew it, I was, a stylist. Alexis, you've worked with M.I.A, Rita Ora, Miley Cyrus, Sky Ferreira and the list is endless, we could say you are one of the most popular celebrity stylists within the music industry. What's the work like when you need to style a new Celebrity or singer? It's definitely important to get to know your artist and the artistic image they are deciding to communicate to their audience for that period of time. Its definitely a collaboration. You've supported new talent designers. What designers are getting your attention? Is it important to look at the up-coming generations?

How would you describe your personal style and what influences it? I guess it’s a cyber 90’s kawaii street wear chav mash up (laughs). I like to look around a lot at the unexpected random shops, the ones not aimed at me are the best places for me (laughs). Who and what inspired you? Everybody and everything. If you confine your sources of inspiration when will you think of something new or not preconceived. Inspiration should always be a surprise, then it feels original. What are your must have for this AW14? A white bomber jacket, lots of cyber silver, and cow print. I love being a cowgirl! Actually, I’m building my cowgirl hat collection! Alexis Knox fashion tips for 00-GMT STYLE READER ?

“Be yourself… Yes, I like to suPport new and emerging designers but they often support me, like I said before this industry fashion is yours is all about collaborating and sharing. These emerging to enjoy, use it designers spend a lot of time and money making one off pieces and are always willing to go beyond the call of duty, something I never forget and always try to to lead a happier repay. more adventurous Would you say the creativity of London combined life.” with the music scene has inspired your styling work or lifestyle? -Alexis Massively so, from moving to London and emerging myself in club nights like Boombox and Circus, to then becoming a DJ, I see so many inspiring and creative club kids. A lot of trends emerge in the clubs.

REBEKAH ROY

et’s start from the beginning. When did you start styling and how did that happen?

I've always been interested in fashion and I was inspired by my mum and my grandmother, who both loved to sew. When I was little my mum would make matching dresses for me and my teddy bears. During high school I worked in a shop, I loved fashion and in university I became quite interested in costume. It was from there that my interest continued to develop and when I came back to London I did an internship at Vogue and then everything started to fall into place. Has living in London shaped your identity as a professional within the fashion industry? I was born in London but moved to Canada when I was little and every year we would come back to visit relatives and I would spend my time shopping. You can't help but be influenced by the fashion in London, it’s so creative and each area has its own unique style, so you can be inspired all the time. Rebekah, your experience is endless, from styling catwalks and celebrities working as a brand consultant and recognisable fashion director. You could almost say that you have done everything.What's your next dream styling project? I feel really fortunate as I really enjoy what I do. I think it’s important to have variety of work as each part of fashion feeds into the others. I really enjoy travelling and I’m giving some blogger talks and workshops during Singapore Digital Fashion Week and Macedonia Fashion Week. What is your working process like when you have to style a fashion show and how is the backstage experience? And how is the experience working with designers and styling the look of their collections? This season I'm styling the Ones to Watch show at Fashion Scout, it’s a group show with four new designers. Each designer only shows 10 to 14 garments so it's important that there is a strong edit that shows each designer's best work. Weeks before the show we start to create the look for the hair and makeup and then do the casting together. I love working on shows; they are busy, exciting and intense. Backstage is always

fun, and I love the moment when the models are in the line-up backstage and we’re all waiting for everyone to get seated so we can start the show! When it comes to styling a celebrity, how do you approach the first looks and mood boards, what’s the process behind that? I work very closely with the celebrities that I style. It’s about getting to know them and understanding their style and how they’d like to develop it. Then I can show them moodboards and rails of clothing. Clothing should be fun and inspire the wearer! About fashion, are you as confident styling women and men, or are there some preferences for you? I love styling both men's and women's fashion. I’ve always styled both men and women, and being female it’s easy to love womenswear because I love clothes but right now menwear has become quite exciting. There are so many new menswear designers graduating this year and in London you have the opportunity to see so much more with London Collections: Men, which is in it’s sixth season, that you can’t help but be excited about menswear. You've been supporting the graduates fashion shows and emerging talent designers – is it important for you to look at the upcoming generations? I love working with new designers and emerging talent. This season I was a judge at Graduate Fashion Week – it’s the perfect opportunity to see every show so you really know what’s going on. It’s important to support emerging talent and I’ve just finished working on the Graduate Fashion Week Issue for Disorder Magazine. It was great fun to style the shoots because the clothes are showpieces and very creative.

Who and what inspired you? Do you have a Style Icon? I admire people who take risks in fashion like Björk,M.I.A. and Beth Ditto, and for personal style I admire Rei Kawakubo, Daphne Guinness and Diana Vreeland. What’s a great fashion tip that you can share with 00GMT STYLE readers? There are so many fashion choices - try new things. Give yourself the time to try on different looks, don’t just rush through the shops and pick the shapes and colours that you always wear. I love to buy jewellery when I go on holiday – it’s great to attach a memory to a piece of jewellery or clothing – it takes on a new meaning when you wear it.

DESIGNER FOCUS

GORI

De PALMA By Maria Martin - Caro Editor in Chief

00-GMT: For how long have you been showing your collections in the Spanish Fashion weeks, between Barcelona and Madrid? Gori de Palma: About 10 years. I think it was in 2000 when I leave the restoration of boats, cars and motorcycles in Mallorca, to come to Barcelona to study fashion. 00-GMT: How do you start a new collection? How is your workflow and process from the sketches, to choose fabrics and finally go on to the catwalk? Gori de Palma: I don´t have a method to follow as a rule, It always catches my attention concepts related to underground and musical movements, but this time, was not the case. It has been a movement in itself, called Arab Spring . Once I have found a theme, my team and I prepared a research regarding to both, costumes and the cultural history and from there, we move on to conceptualize the concept of the collection, designs and sketches. 00-GMT: Tell us about Gori de Palma AW' 14 collection? What´s behind "El Origen del Mal" ( The Evil Origin)? Gori de Palma: El Origen del Mal (The Origin of Evil), takes inspiration on the recent wars in the East Arabic countries, especially about the "movement called “Arab Spring” pretending to be a reflection of darkness, unlimited selfishness of human figure and the loss of innocence, while raising questions about the way we live and coexistence. About the creation process, study Arabic origins, search and purchase old military uniforms, also some

military jackets from the Spanish civil war dated from 1930. We have disassembled all these garments, restored and cutting with new patterns, It's have been a very special way to work which makes it the greatest time about El Origen del Mal (The Origin of Evil). About the show, I have to thank you so many people, Manuela Fidalgo who Styled the collection, Adriana Sepulveda Makeup artist and Hair stylist, the Wallas for the live music, Merche Domot for their support, Planet of the Watts sound and lighting and of course Jack Daniels and Beer Sol sponsors who really made the event with their economic contribution. 00-GMT: “El Origen del Mal” The Evil campaign and catwalk have been photographed by Cristian Di Stefano, this not the first time you work together, How's the relation between both of you? It is important for you Gori to work with friends who understand better Gori de palma style? Gori de Palma: We started working together with my AW`2010 collection called ”écorché”, almost 5 years ago and from that day we became good friends and mutual fans of our respect work. I love the way Cristian sees things, his position and attitude in this confusing world of fashion, it is hard to find people

like that. Usually, I only work with friends, and I like this way. As I've said before, Adriana, Merche, Cristian, Manuela, etc, etc .... all are professionals in the industry and good friends. The ones I like to work with because, they think like me and show the same attitude in life.

00-GMT: Do you sell everything from the catwalk, or some pieces are made just for the runway. Is there a difference between the show and the instore collection? Gori de Palma: The 30% are garments for production, but the remaining 70% have a limited range. For example on my last collection "El Origen del Mal" (The Origin of Evil) we work with historical fabrics, vintage garments and this is the main characteristic that contributes to a limited production of these pieces, making them more exclusive and desired. There is no difference between catwalk and in -store collection, what you see, it's what sells later. 00-GMT: Are there a definition about Gori de Palma label? How can we describe your style and signature on your collections? Have them something personal from Gori Romero?

Gori de Palma: I'm inspired by transcends aesthetic values, to a certain peculiarities of the female world that have always been my inspiration, such as the powerful femininity, with a strong dash of eroticism and sensuality. Also the figure of human and the body as a conceptual form, it´s a big reference for me. The black colour, in all its ranges and variations and undoubtedly some music movements and underground culture, those are a constant source of inspiration oin my fashion vision, like "New wave" punk and after punk, skins, rider's just to mention a few. I'm always on the look for a new challenges, the main thing, it's continually keep asking yourself questions to take over of our own habits and prejudices. 00-GMT: Is there something that you think to have contributed to the fashion industry? Gori de Palma: Not at all, my only contribution was to go against the industry. Also with our unique pieces and limited series of garments that increasingly have become more frequent in my collections. Work with vintage fabrics or arcade garments from historical collections it´s a highly elaborate work process. This´s not the way that Fashion Industry works. I can assure it to you, (laugh)

NEWS

JOHN ROCHA

John Rocha Retires By Nia Aronoffsky

The Hong-Kong born fashion pioneer has confirmed his Autumn/Winter ’14 collection will indeed be his last as he announces his retirement from showcasing at London Fashion Week. In a successful career spanning 29 years after he first appeared in the London Fashion Week schedule in 1985, Rocha first established himself with his Chinatown label in Dublin, and later by designing men’s and women’s clothing for high street store A Wear and their luxury stores Brown Thomas. He is arguably best known for creating clothing that fell in the middle of the ready-to-wear and haute couture spectrum. His eponymous pret-a-porter collections have garnered worldwide lasting fame, from the sleek, delicately sheek lines of the 90s to the recent capacious profiles and signature froufrou hats of late. He was awarded the Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 1993 and a CBE in 2002 for his contribution to the fashion industry. So now that he is stopping, what is next for John Rocha? He has recently been involved in the hotel-meets-art project Château La Coste, in the hills of En Provence, France and he seems happy at the prospect of continuing on this projectory of Art, Architecture and the Land close to his home there in Cap Ferrat, Cote d’Azur in regard to future projects along similar lines. Not least so he can partake in his favourite hobby of fishing. The news has been met with heavy hearts and somewhat of a surprise since many considered Rocha to be producing his best work to date. For the designer himself that makes it the perfect time to retire from his brand. The Rocha legacy however will continue to live on through his daughter Simone, who was awarded emerging Womenswear Designer of the Year at the 2013 British Fashion Awards and will still be very much carrying the family torch.

TRENDS

CATWALK TRENDS AW’14

ANTIPODIU M

PUC LIO

FRANCIS MONTESINOS PASARELA

TOM

F OR

EMILIO DE LA MORENA

HUISHAN Z

HANG

EMI

LA MORENA EMILIO DE

VELVET

FENDI

JOHN ROC HA

MEADHAM

MARQUE

KIRCHHOFF

A S’ ALMEID

“This season Silky Velvet returns to our wardrobes with new lines and shapes, creating androgynous looks we haven’t seen ever before. On the catwalk Emilio Pucci green pajama-style suit, it’s the sophisticate and strong colour palette for a day or night time. John Rocha and Marques’s Almeida dress the day time in terms of outwear and volume with the use of the fabric in coats or jackets that simulated the classic “denim jacket pattern”. The night will dress once again the mini dress Sixtiesinspiration, now from Tom Form and Meadham Kirchhoff with their velvet inspiration.” By: Maria Martin Caro Editor in Chief

ADA PASA RELA LA PR AGAT HA R UIZ D E

AC N

ES TU DIO S

DRIES VAN NOTEN

CHANEL

TRENDS

“There is nothing better than a hip lady who has her own unique and distinctive sense of style. Who doesn’t want to be known for their chic, eye-catching, wonderful sense of fashion? Every fashionista know this well-known secret prints are a form of self-expression. There, the secret is out now.

THE NEW RA Bring out your inner self and shine letting the prints talk for you this season with infinite range of possibilities: the classic black and white like the sequinned wavy pattern from Marc Jacobs or the modern geometric triangular shapes like Acne Studio’s, Chanel’s little colourful squares or zig-zag pattern from Kenzo. The expressive abstract like the azure pattern comes with House Of Holland or the overlapping diamond-like purple, the yellow shapes of Prada and the burning fire from Roberto Cavalli: fuchsia and canary yellow branches romantic florist leaves are a strong thing on Dries Van Noten’s AW collection.

L ASARE LIVA P O O J JUAN

A LA PA SAREL ROBU STEL KRIZIA

DVF

VALENTINO

By: Liat Shaaf Fashion Writer

MARC JACOBS MAR

PAUL SMITH

PETER PILOTTO

AVE PRINTS When it comes to prints, the only rule is that there are no rules! You can go head-to-toe with an all-over print like Ailanto, Juanjo Olivia, Marni or Krizia Robustella, with a mix and match prints and colours to create your own individual style as Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, Yohji Yamamoto, Proenza Schouler or Peter Pilotto. This is a celebration! Don’t be afraid to experiment, have some FUN and Shine!”

PRAD A

BREGAZZI PREEN BY THORNTON

KEN ZO

PROENZA SCHOULER

The nostalgic hip like Antipodum Roman heads, or DVF 70’s inspired grey curls and scale shapes, or Juan Vidal warm coloured 70’s pattern topped with glittering sequinned alligators or Preens’ Darth Vader’s Star Wars mask. The sporty vibe of letters, words and motives of Marc By Marc Jacobs or the camo earthy colours of Paul And Joe.

CHRISTOPHER

LOU IS V

UITT ON

KANE

RODARTE

OBS MARC JAC

U RANTZO

60’S STYLE & PRINTS

DELPOZO

ANTIPOD IUM

ING ANA LO CK

ER WANG ALEXAND

ANT MARY K

MIU MIU

ARL MOTHER OF PE

F CHHOF AM KIR MEADH

TRENDS

The trademarks of the style are there, miniskirts, A-line shifts and skinny, knee high, leather boots. The pointed flats and petite plump handbags put a ‘modern’ back this AW’14. Marc Jacobs, Mary Katrantzou and Miu Miu add glitzy in the form of pants and long sleeve t-shirts as well as typical long and short sleeve shift dresses.

D O FY

R O

LA GO

AW14 COATS

A UZ

T AL

OVERSIZED - THE MORE, THE MERRIER!

E AUR PH L L A R

You can go large, khaki military trench style with large square pockets and a wide dark belt as in Phillip Lim, or two-tone of dark royal blue with a large bright blue lapels overflowing over your shoulders, tied with two-tone belt at the waist like at Altuzarra, or a dramatic, edgy and a bit puffy black one that runs just above your knee with oversized sleeves made of opaque fabric with shiny leather wide collar and inserts at the sleeves, like at Balenciaga.

SACA

I MARN

YO HJ

HOUSE O F HOLLAN D

ILLIAMSON MATTHEW W

FUR TRIM The lighter version this winter comes with the trimmed coats giving a versatile look. The classic biker jacket takes a “wintery” twist at Alexander Wang - choose a black zipped up jacket with details on the collar cuffs and hem would go with almost everything. While we are on the issue of contrasts, an orange knee-length every day coat with dark grey fur collar by Antipodium that for sure will keeps you warm. If you are truly the brave type and willing to go all the way, Matthew Williamson’s moon-printed black coat with very wide trim of blue and red fur makes a seriously strong impact. Nobody would be able to ignore Marques Almeida’s vibrant canary yellow diagonal wide stripe of fur on the yellow fastened by a black belt a the shoulder. By: Liat Shaaf - Fashion Writer

IY AM

AM OT O

FUR “Extravagant” is your thing?, go with the bold bright red from Prada below the knee or the Marquez Almeida’s powder blue, tied up with a ribbon on the side. For those with a free-spirit, from the 70’s flower girl, Marni offers a boho-chic mid-calve-length version in white shaggy hair with blue spots, pink and orange. Emilio Pucci, has his more elegant version of “printed” fur – white with “Dalmatian” black spots and orange-patterned hem and Roksanda Ilincic has a checked knee-length coat in vibrant hues. No doubt, these coats will make a statement!

OZO DEL P

Y FU HOLL

LTON

ALEX

AND ER M C

QUE EN

HANNIBAL LA GUNA PA SARE LA

ALE X AN DER MC QU EEN

TRENDS

THE FAIRYTALE

VALENT INO

VALENTINO

JOHN ROCHA

AZZI ORNTON BREG PREEN BY TH

JOHN ROCHA

Being ever the romantic, delicate, long dresses, flowers and butterflies, see-through chiffon and lace are exactly what princess’ dreams are made of. Valentino and John Rocha, both will dress you with long and flattering, feminine and flowing dresses of light chiffon and layered tulle, embroidered with colorful flowers or embellished with floral appliqué. If you are more into romantic lace, you can go with a bride-white lacy frock with a thick bright red stripe as seen from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi , or you can be romantic and daring, sexy in vibrant hot red see-through embroidered tulle from collar to calf, from Delpozo, or go dramatic, wearing rosepatterned white long dress embellished with silver glitters and rhinestones, as Hannibal Laguna . For those that white is not your colour and feel dark and Gothic, Alexander McQueen’s makes a statement this season AW14 showing a black floor-length feather skirt, with the flowery deep cleavage or either the purple ruffled dress. Alberta Ferretti’s, green-hued cocktail dress embellished with lots of leaves and shiny stones would really make you feel free-spirited and very young at heart. Now, all you have to do is find your prince charming and create your own fairytale style. By: Liat Shaaf - Fashion Writer

PUCC I

FERRETT

EMILI O

CÉL

INE

BALM AIN

ALBERTA

RAEBURN CHRISTOPHER

MILITARY

ISABEL M

ARANT

ET POWE L MARGAR

JACOBS RC MARC BY MA

J.W. ANDERSON

PAUL AND JOE

Structured lines and military khaki as dominating colour takes the catwalks this fall/winter 2014. The trend comes again this season as a reference of the army and rigor uniforms, subtle Marlene Dietrich attitude in a modern times. A Balmain blazer with patch pockets or leather big shoulder jackets are the perfect to go safe with this trend this season. The pencil skirt under knee – length, a classic piece from the 30’s and 40’s nowadays seems to be the sexy and confident way of the military trend. Christopher Raeburn and Celine brings the casual style with big-leg bottom trousers and jumpers offering the most comfortable and softer style. By Maria Martin Caro- Editor in Chief

GET THE LOOK

How to wear...

the ASPEN CHIC

INSIDER TIP "As the temperatures drop we look to the slopes of Aspen, taking inspiration from the fall catwalks of Louis Vuitton to Margaret Howell, this Style Guide shows how to be chalet-chic.

Jumper - Maison Martin Margiela Trousers - Haider Ackermann Ear Cuff - Efva Attling Clutch - Shrimps Shoes - Casadei

Nothing says “ski vibe” quite like a Fair Isle knit sweater, this Maison Martin Margiela has a slim-fit cut with emphasis on the shoulders for the perfect modern update. Wear it with ribbed wool trousers, a big trend this season, from Haider Ackermann and add a pop of colour through Shrimps faux-fur clutch for that youthful touch. Keep the accessories sleek with suede heels from Casedi and an Efva Attling ear cuff, the pearls adding a touch of iridescence mirroring the falling snow. "

- By Daisy Bryson | Stylist

GET THE LOOK

How to wear...

the LADYLIKE “Off Duty”

INSIDER TIP

“Embrace femininity this fall with an “Off Duty” approach to Ladylike dressing. This Style Guide shows how to give the prim and proper a modern edge. Take inspiration from a Hitchcock heroine and look to modest midi skirts, such as this House of Holland, with flirty movement and shape it injects glamour into any wardrobe. Keep the look current by pairing with Isabel Marant blazer, combining elegant elements that are balanced by modern tailoring for a relaxed look, and Eytys trainers for that contemporary spin. Add accessories with clean lines through Balenciaga bow ring and bag by Givenchy, offsetting the feminine pieces with powerful ones. ” -By Daisy Bryson | Stylist

Skirt - House of Holland Blazer - Isabel Marant Ring - Balenciaga Trainers - Eytys Bag - Givenchy

How to wear...

the NIGHT FEATHERS

INSIDER TIP

"From maribou to ostrich few things says romantic decadence like feathers. The 00-GMT Style team embraces the flighty approach to adornment, perfect for night.

Dress - Lanvin Heels - Sophia Webster Clutch - Lulu Guiness Headband - Oscar De La Renta Ring (Set of 6) - IOSSELLIANI

Show off the plumage in this Lanvin little black dress, feminine and opulent it brings pure glamour to an evening. Wear with IOSSELLIANI stacked rings layered on the fingers and Sophia Webster sherbet-hued heels for a playful touch. Adorn your head with crystal feather headband by Oscar De La Renta for major impact and then hug and hold this Lulu Guiness clutch, threading a hand through the wristlet so you can dance all night. " -By Daisy Bryson | Stylist

MUST HAVE

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

DOLCE & GABBANA

CHRISTOPHER KANE

6 9

MOSCHINO

ANYA HINDMARCH

BURBERRY PRORSUM

MARY KANTRANTZOU

KENZO

DRIES VAN NOTEN

SAINT LAURENT

1 CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA 2 JULIA HAART 3 6 DOLCE & GABBANA 7 3.1 PHILLIP LIM 8

SOPHIA WEBSTER

LANVIN

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD

ACNE STUDIOS

STELLA MCCARTNEY

URBAN REVIVAL

Coat (Black woollen with large textured PU panels) - Clon8 Trousers (Black casual sweat textured PU front) - Clon8 Jumper - Ground-Zero Ring - Gina Melosi

NATURAL KNITWEAR Photography – Simone Lezzi http://www.simonelezzi.com

Photographer Assistant – Antonio Putini @cameraworklondon Style Director – Maria Martin – Caro http://www.mariamartincaro.com Make Up Artist – Anna Wild (using YSL) http://www.annawild.co.uk Hair Stylist – Atsushi Takita (using Bumble and Bumble) http://atsushitakita.com Model – India @NevsModelAgency Location – Crew8 Studio http://cre8studiolondon.com

Total Look (Cape/Top/Trousers)- Allude / Jewellery/Ring Silver - Rachel Boston / Jewellery/Necklace Silver - Rachel Boston

ASPEN CHIC

Poncho - House of Had / Skirt - Halston Heritage / Shoes - Sperry

OFF DUTY - LADY LIKE

Total Look (Cardigan/Midi Skirt) - Ground-Zero / Bag - M Missoni / Shoes - Absence

MINIMAL TAILORING Top and Trousers - Sand Jewellery (Pendal Crystals Necklace/Brazalet) - Mirrabelle Shoes - Absence

ROOMY TROUSERS

Total Look (Shirt/Trousers)- Steven Tai / Sunglasses- Cutler and Gross / Shoes Joungwon Kim x- Ground-Zero Jewellery Rose Gold Bangle - Charlotte Valkeniers

RETRO JUMPSUIT

Statement Pendal Necklace - Mawi London / Sunglasses - Cutler and Gross / Jumpsuit - JH Zane Shoes - Absence / Bag - Mawi London

STYLE INSIDER

KATIE NASH

“Girls Talk” By Maria Martin - Caro Editor in Chief

0-GMT: "Girl talk", is your third album and we were wondering why this title, how did you get the inspiration to name it? Which songs on there do you love in particular?

KNs: I had so much to say with this new album. I wish I had had it when I was a teenager – it would have helped me through so many shit relationships. I had a lot going on in my life and Girl Talk is a summation of so many things. I wanted it to be an album that girls could turn to when the needed a friend to talk to or to purge their emotions. There are fun pop melodies and bouts of anger – all sorts of emotions that girls go through. My favourite song on the album is ‘Oh’. A friend of mine who passed away while the album was being recorded sings on the song, so it means a lot to me. I also really love ‘Sister’, which I’ve just released a video for. 00-GMT : Where do you see yourself in the future? What Are there any plans after “Girl Talk”? KNs: I’m based out of LA at the moment and in between gigs and festivals, I’m writing some new music as well as writing for a Broadway play that's using my music. I’ll be writing music and playing gigs until I’m a granny! I’ve also really enjoyed acting in films over the past couple of years, so will continue to audition and build up my acting portfolio.

working with both established and new designers. I can’t get enough of Bora Aksu and Felder Felder and I have so much fun wearing Bas Kosters when performing. British knitwear designer Alice Palmer works well for me on stage, I can play my bass and dive into the crowd for a bit of surfing and her dresses stay put. 00-GMT: How would you describe you personal style? How have you seen it evolve over time? KNs: Thank you. My style has definitely evolved since I first started as a singer songwriter and performing artist. I’m inspired by a lot of different things from films to books and art. I’ve just dyed my hair bright pink for my tour, but the punk meets rockabilly hairstyle came from the character Corinne ‘Third Degree’ Burns from the film ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, The Fabulous Stains’. I like mixing vintage with designer and High Street, and sometimes you’ll see me in my 50s pin-up meets punk look, or sometimes I’ll look like a granny, or sometimes I’ll look like a seven-year-old playing dress up. It just depends on my mood – like most girls. 00-GMT : What's in your suitcase when you go on a tour? How do you choose your outfit before go on stage?

“OK Let’s talk about fashion! Here in 00-GMT Style we have so many questions! (laugh)”

Any recommendations to our readers to follow your style?

00-GMT : You're an amazing supporter of new up and coming fashion talent - wearing their collections for festivals, editorials, television and more. So tell us, who are you keen on?

KNs: It’s so hard packing for tour as I have to have a wardrobe for stage and a wardrobe for off-duty. I always pack plenty of easy dresses from places like Lazy Oaf and lots of black fishnets. I have black mesh bodies that I wear under a lot of dresses. I wear Dr Martens or Underground creepers on and off stage. I run around and dance a lot on stage and change instruments several times, so I need comfy footwear. I normally have an idea of what I want to wear on stage – I plan in advance. For the current American tour the theme is ‘womb’ so I’ll be wearing lots of pink and red and have asked my fans to do the same – hence the new pink locks. My style basics: Bright pink hair (at the moment) or two-toned victory rolls, fish net tights, fun dresses, a safety pin in the ear and creepers.

Kns: Fashion is an integral part of the visual aspect of my job as a musician. I use fashion to communicate with my audience visually when performing or appearing on television. I really got interested in London Fashion Week a few years ago after attending with my UK-based stylist, Rebekah Roy. She took me backstage to meet the designers and introduced me to a lot of up-and-coming and emerging labels. It was amazing to talk to people about their craft and their love of design and making. They are as passionate about what they do as I am about music. I love

DECADENCE PUNK Photography – Simone Lezzi @cameraworklondon

Photographic 1 Assistant – Antonio Putini @cameraworklondon Photographic 2 Assistant – Chiara Ginevra Avagliano Fashion Editor/Stylist – Maria Martin - Caro http://www.mariamartincaro.com Make Up – Anna Wild (using YSL) http://www.annawild.co.uk Hair Stylist – Atsushi Takita (using Bumble and Bumble) http://atsushitakita.com Hair Stylist´s Assistant – Jun Takagi Model – Lucy Cates @MOTmodels Location – Proud Camden & Proud Cabaret http://proudcamden.com http://www.proudcabaretcamden.com

Gold Leather Coat - Cristian Blanken Golden Cuffs - Mirabelle Silver Black Dress - Eugene Lin Chain Bracelet -Mawi London

Black Dress - Eugene Lin

Dress -Eugene Lin Crystal Choker -Day Birger et Mikkelsen Crytal Brooch - Mawi London Leather Harness Shorts - Pompeii London Earrings/Rings - Ottoman Hands Chain Brazalet - Mawi London

Earring - Mawi London / Black Biker Jacket - Cristian Blanken /Trousers - Hoss Intropia Gold Dragon / Cuff/Ring - Mirabelle / Shoes - Elizabeth Dunn

Dress - Alice Palmer / Necklace - Ottoman Hands / Gold Cuffs - Mirabelle / Golden Clutch - Kiki London / Golden Tiger Ring - Mirabelle Stones Rings - Ottoman Hands / Shoes - Camilla Skovgaard

Dress - Alice Palmer Necklace - Ottoman Hands Gold Cuffs - Mirabelle Golden Clutch - Kiki London

Onyx Earring/Green Ring - Ottoman Hands / Chain Choker/Silver Ring - Mawi London / Gown Dress - Hemyca London Black Leather Cuff - Eugene Lin / Golden Bag - Janvier London

DESIGNER FOCUS

Bas Koster AW-14 “Hi Bas, congratulations on your AW 2014 collection!” 1. Clowns were your main inspiration this time. What is it that fascinates you about clowns and how did you come up with this idea for the collection? I am always inspired with festive colorful things and images with a high reference level. This can range from toys and dolls, to clowns and sexual explicit images. The idea of creating a collection with only graphical prints led to an interest in prints on vintage clowns suits. But then, clowns seemed like such an interesting idea. The comparison of clowns being like celebrities, always being looked at and living behind a mask made the motivation complete to move forward with the storyline. 2. What was the feedback like on this collection? Ehm, I believe it was alright. It is quite difficult to extract one general thought from all the different reactions. My team and I were very enthusiastic about it. The item that caught a lot of attention was the head to toe sequins bodysuit with the mask, and the celebrity clown print with a Miley Cirus and Britney Spears clown. 3. Do you have a specific research process when you start a new collection or is it different each time? I am constantly on the look out for inspiration. This is a process that never stops. Whilst working on one collection my thoughts are already going in a new direction for a new collection. Although the steps that I take are somewhat mixed up, I like to shuffle things around and begin the design process with prints and other times with sketches. 4. Each new collection is a part of the same story, the world of Bas Kosters story. How important is it to keep everything interconnected and why?

I believe strongly in building a storybook, for me designing for the sake of making clothing is not interesting. The different disciplines I use around my fashion should move forward together. Storylines develop themselves overtime, but so do my characters, which mature and grow. In the beginning of my career I decided to create collections with my future heritage in mind, that is why I think it is very important that everything interconnects. 5. What’s your favourite piece? I created a small line of silver jewelry for ‘Clowns are people too’ collection that I absolutely love. I collaborated with jewelry designer Helina Jaaskelainen, combining my visual language and her skills, and the project turned out fantastically. 6. What’s more important: creativity or wearability? CREATIVITY of course. Fashion to me is a good medium for storytelling. Besides, the term wearability can be as broad as you want it to be. 7. Your aesthetic is very unique, how do you manage to stay original in today’s world of such scarce novelty? Firstly, let me say, it is very difficult to create something totally new. Creating something original it is in the combination of the message and elements where in lies a chance to do something new. My work is almost old fashioned and nostalgic, but I strive to be original in what I do. On the one hand I live in my own little bubble, but there is of course references to today’s society in my collections as well. 8. Who do you look up to in the fashion world? I love the way That Vivienne Westwood combines social awareness with creative busyness. I love the prints of Zandra Rhodes, and the work of the late Leigh Bowery. But I also love the way that Cindy Sherman uses appearance and clothing to create her works, she uses fashion as a medium, which I love. 9. Can you give us a hint on what the next collection is going to be about? Times are confusing right now, the fashion world is complicated, and all systems are ready for evaluation. Are fashion shows still relevant, are fairs still the way to sell your clothes. This state of confusion is the start of my new collection, or maybe it is better to call it a project.

URBAN STYLE GUIDE

REVIVAL ASHISH

ASHISH

(COAT,BOTTOMS,JUMPER)

ISSEY MIYAKE (TOP,BOTTOM)

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

DKNY

NINA RICCI

CHRISTOPHER KANE

JUNYA WATANABE COMME DES GARÇONS

ANTHONY VACCARELLO

ISABEL MARANT

RICK OWENS

SACAI

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NEW RAVE PRINTS Photography – Simone Lezzi http://www.simonelezzi.com

Coat Print - Ground-Zero Necklace and Brazalet - Cooee Design Boots High Knee - Absence

VELVET DREAM

Coat - M Missoni / Velvet Dress - Sand / Bag and Brazalet - Mawi London / Shoes - Amaya Arzuaga

BOHO FUR COAT

Jewellery (Earring/Brazalet) - Mawi London / Cape - Marry Me Jimmy Paul

GOLDEN FLARE

Dress- M Missoni / Jewellery (Ring/Statement Necklace) - Mawi London / Boots High Knee- Absence

Designer

ABSENCE http://www.abcense.com/ ALLUDE http://www.allude-cashmere.com/de AMAYA ARZUAGA https://www.amayaarzuaga.com/amaya-eshop/

CHARLOTTE VALKENIERS http://www.charlottevalkeniers.com/ CLON8 http://clon8.com/ COOEE DESIGN http://www.cooee.se/

GROUND - ZERO http://www.zerolaboratory.com/news.php GINA MELOSI http://www.ginamelosi.com/

HALSTON HERITAGE http://www.halston.com/ HOUSE OF HAD http://houseofhad.com/

JH ZANE http://www.jhzane.co.uk/ JULIAN HAKES http://www.julianhakes.co.uk/index.html

L LONDALI

http://www.londali.com/

MAWI http://www.mawi.co.uk/ MARRY ME JIMMY PAUL http://www.maryme-jimmypaul.com/ MIRABELLE http://www.mirabellejewellery.co.uk/ M MISSONI http://www.m-missoni.com/en

R RACHEL BOSTON

http://www.rachelboston.co.uk

SAND http://sand.dk/ SPERRY http://www.sperrytopsider.co.uk STEVEN TAI http://steventai.co.uk/