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Contents

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credits: editorinchief:

Emanuele

Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angelo

emanuele@livincool.com art

director:

Giuseppe

Alagna

contributors: photographers:

Angela la Rotonda, Akihito Igarashi, Luca Tombolini Stylists:

Cecilia Cauville, Jen Wang

writers:

Tahiyya Jurdine fabrizio galati .

j e r e m y

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We are proud to interview M r J e r e m y S c o t t, t h e f i r s t q u e s t i o n i s e a s y. . . W h e n d i d yo u k n o w t h at yo u wanted to be a fashion designer? I always loved fashion. I always loved clothes, dress up, playing, finding clothes and making my own look. From a very young age, I was very particular about what I wore. I drew clothes, thought about outfits and talked to friends about what they should wear, but I didn’t think it was a job at all, I just loved clothes as I was very passionate about that, creating, putting them together. I was around 18 when there was a contest to design a pair of shoes for the singer of delight band, she was the judge and if you won, you were able to go to New York and meet her. I started to design shoes and I designed and designed and I realized I can just design for ever, I had million of ideas… I didn’t win the contest, so the story isn’t that good (laughing..), It was about realizing the talent I have and this is a job that I should do. I just never saw it like a job, I always thought of it as a pleasure. In the last collection presented in New York you have brought back the logo on the clothing as a means of c o m m u n i c at i o n . W h at i s t h e m e s s a g e t h at yo u wa n t t o e xpress with the Spring/Summer collection? In my opinion the soul of the release represents a futuristic newyorker woman with a “ r o c k s o u l” . W h a t i n s p i r e d you in this direction?

This one was really inspired by the city itself, by New York City and the cool girls , from Debbie Harry to Leigh Lezark who have embodied the attitude of the time so I thought about Max’s Kansas City to the Boom Boom Room today. These girls are at the party and they are the fun cool girls that everyone loves and knows and everyone wants to be. And with this kind of feeling, they can wear anything at any time. They could even wear trash bags with high heels and put on a pair of sunglasses and that’s heir look for evening. So that’s kind of where I was coming from with the inspiration… The menswear , on the contrary suggests a fetish f e e l i n g w i t h l at e x , n y l o n a n d sy n t h e t i c m at e r i a l s. D o yo u n o t t h i n k t h at t h e s e m i g h t b e d i f f i c u lt t o w e a r ? Most of them are leather,I wore them, so I’d never say it is hard to wear (laughing…) Obviously it is a show, I put them over jeans, jean shorts with jeans myself already twice and no one was like screaming at me on the street (laughing)…So It’s really about how you decide to wear it. It’s the same with the sheer dress we know the show it may be sheer and you can see the breasts but maybe in reality, the women decide to wear a bra or tank top or you know another sheer dress… Runway is always one thing: Fantasy and there’s the reality… That’s the same thing for the pieces for Men’s

wear . The men’s wear was really important in the sense that part of the inspiration for the women’s wear was men’s assignment clothes. A real gay man culture, that kind of very late 70’s, the sex clubs in New York, was part of the inspiration, in a way, they had embodied the look anyway. Why do you put the wings in e v e ry r e l e a s e t h at yo u c r e at e ? W h at d o t h e y m e a n ? I just think they are very positive, such a positive icon, it makes you feel like you could fly, a very positive good feeling, it’s surreal. A surreal look, you know the wings coming from the sneakers, and I’m really the first person ever do this in creating winged sneakers. Yeah I will continue it, of course it’s mine, I own it, this is my concept. The original one was such a success that I decided to create a new one which was with two wings at each side and the next season I have the sandals, and the girls have ballerina shoes with the little wings- hat was also because the other shoe should have been so predominantly unisex that I wanted to do something completely formed on the feminine shape, that’s why I choose the ballerinas but I wanted give them some inspiration from the collection and that’s why I added the wings. Could you give us your opinion about your collaboration with adidas originals?

I think they are the number one in sports brands in the world, that’s why I’m working with them (laughing…) It’s a very clear and concrete answer … what I appreciate about them is that they’ve always been a part of pop culture. They are part of music, arts, they never were afraid of it, they always embraced it. When Run DMC was like Oh we love Adidas , they didn’t say we don’t want to have anything to do with it, they said it’s great, let’s do a line together , and that’s embracing, and that is really cool because some other brands are so scared to try anything different and new, especially the sports brands. Lots of them want to be only known for sports and athletics, and that’s really cool, Adidas has always been part of fashion and culture. It’s a much cooler brand than other ones… I r e a l ly l o v e y o u r l e a t h e r j a c k e t s e s p e c i a l ly t h e v e s t for Schott ... Where did you g e t t h e i d e a s t o c r e at e t h e s e kinds of biker jackets? it is total iconic, the rebel, you know the bad boy, Marlon Brando. So I loved the idea to create my version of that Iconic garment. A lot of famous artists are w e a r i n g yo u r c r e at i o n s ( M ad o n n a , R i h a n n a , K a n y e W e s t, Björk, Beyoncé, M.I.A., Sant o g o l d , R o b y n , K a t y P e r r y, F e r g i e , P e r e z H i lt o n , J u s t i n T i m b e r l a k e , P a r i s H i lt o n , Christina Aguilera, Kylie Minogue, Victoria Beckham, Lil W a y n e , L i l’ K i m , K e l i s , C i a r a , L i n d s ay L o h a n , G w e n S t e f a n i and Lady Gaga) Who do you

c o n s i d e r b e s t i n c a r n at e s yo u r style and your concept of fashion? Yeah! I’m very blessed, I have many wonderful fans that I’m actually fans of myself so it’s a wonderful feeling that Kanye comes to my show, and to be the first person backstage to congratulate me because he loved it so much. So I’m inspired because I think the music he makes is so inspiring, I love dressing him, Lady Gaga, Rhianna, there’s tons of wonderful people that I dress and I love it. I really feel super blessed about it. Who is your favourite fashion photographer? There are so many great ones, obviously Steven Meisel, is probably the number one, he is always coming up with new ideas, constantly doing , challenging, new things…every cover of Italian Vogue…It’s hard do not love him! W h at a r e yo u r fav o r i t e p l a c e s to hang out in Paris? I love just walking around Paris, it is such a beautiful city to walk around in… W h at a r e yo u r f u t u r e p r o j ects? I can’t talk to you about it…(Laughing) How do you imagine the future of the fashion scene? Fashion is constantly reverting back to the past, it’s not just about the present. Before Saint Laurent did it in the 70’s he was referencing the 40’s. They were already looking at different times

in the 20’s, there’s always been aspects of being inspired by the past with the people’s culture for fashion, for arts for everything, that will never end. The change is just part of human nature, it’s human. That is going to be the defining thing, how it changes…because people now are seeing fashion so much quicker than they used to…You know, shows happen and people are watching it live, my show was live. But the customer has to wait. I’m not so sure about how happy people are to wait, because everything is so instant. This is kind of weird and is instant because of the images information but the extra items are still not coming out for a while. I don’t know if it has to be the thing we have to change, I don’t know if that’s possible, but I know some people, like Tom (Ford) did a show this season where he had no photos and he won’t show the photos until it comes to the stores, which is very interesting but I don’t know if the all fashion system will change. To be like that it would be really complicated, in the society we live now because automatically everyone has a camera…How can you control this? Is a very difficult thing, very interesting… Photo by Emanuele D’Angelo Interview by Fabrizio Galati.

J o h n G a l l i a n o S p r i n g s u m m e r 2011

P a r i s F a s h i o n w e e k

A l b t s

i e h c

f e h i n d e e n e s

Photos: Luca Tombolini

r o l f s a c h s

W h e r e d o yo u f i n d i n s p i r at i o n for your designs? One is constantly inspired, it can be people, nature, day to day situations, a book, but mostly through art exhibitions in galleries, museums or studios. If you could give one piece of advice to a budding design s t u d e n t, w h a t w o u l d i t b e ? To look beyond the design world for inspiration as mentioned in the question above and get to know the contemporary art world and study

the artists. It helps as you add depth and have a better feeling and understanding for the ‘Zeitgeist’. Each individual will have different fields, which he bonds with, such as fine art, literature, theatre, dance or opera.

For me, design is function, art is emotion. If you draw two partially overlapping circles, one circle is art the other functionalism. My world is where the two overlap and occasionally I wonder into one or the other. W h y d i d yo u s w i t c h ( o r w h at was your transition) from studying Economics to becoming a designer? Since always I have been attracted by the creative world, be it photography, the fine arts, fashion, sculpture, film and so forth. I studied business administration as it was somehow my family duty, but also a field that greatly interests me and continues to do so. I believe that if you are creative, you are curious about most subjects. I started producing one off design pieces, primarily for my personal use in the early 90’s and gradually more and more friends commissioned me to make them pieces and that’s how it all begun. I moved to London in 1994 where I set up my studio and submerged myself in the art & design world, always searching for the “new” and seeking new challenges. Why the “?” for 10 o’clock on yo u r I Q wat c h ? It shall remain a mystery!

W h e r e d o yo u s ta n d o n t h e term ‘Design Art’? Do you think it deserves its own genre?

If you could choose the best setting for your products, would it be a museum, fair, studio or a home?

The design world is a very broad field situated somewhere between engineering and the fine arts.

Created for a home, inspired by the studio, a visitor at the fair and hopefully at home in a museum!

If you had to choose a differe n t c a r e e r pat h , w h at w o u l d it be? In a related field, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d choose to be an architect, otherwise an explorer. When is your next London exhibition opening? Probably 2011 Photo by Karl Gross Interview by Tahiyya Jurdine.

Who are some of the artists a n d / o r d e s i g n e r s t h at yo u admire? As a child I was surrounded by art and I admire the work of Malevich, the De Stijl and Dada movement, Joseph Bueys, Marcel Duchamp and many others. Each one of these artists went beyond the pure beauty of art, opening the mind to look at the arts in a different way. I am searching to create designs that are neutral and timeless and therefore, I often use the concept of a ready-made as a departure point. I often try to bring a human and emotional value to my objects, instead of decorative features. The Zeitgeist has probably pushed me into that direction, as I feel the past decades were over designed and often lacking depth. If you could sum up the typical life of a designer in a few w o r d s, w h at w o u l d t h e y b e ? Visually and emotionally curious.

J ES S I C A D E L OT Z 29

Jessica De Lotz is a jewelry designer based in London.I have been in her studio in north london and I took some photos of her while she was working. Tell us a little about yours e l f. . . Which methods do you use to c r e at e yo u r j e w e l ry ? My wonderful workshop is my 2nd home and enables me to hand make all my pieces, largely myself. My workbench is adorned with all my trinklets and it is here that i

spend the majority of my time. Sealing, assembling, filing, designingâ&#x20AC;Ś. Specialist equipment such as a watch makers lathe is available to me in the workshop. This means that i am able to turn materials such mock ivory ( my favourite) to create a crisp, symmetrical forms or i can settle myself at my workbench to hand carve it. My workshop provides me with the opportunity to experiment and communicate a completely different language, with the same material, providing me with alot of

scope to design. W h at a r t i s t s h av e i n f l u e n c e d you and why? Surreal artists Joseph Cornell and the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;poetic theatres of memoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; that he created have continually crept back into my sketch books. His universe of found objects and images, displayed within a miniature world to create whimsical, sometimes fictional narratives and tributes have served as a great inspiration to my work. W h at d o e s t h e w o r d d e s i g n

mean to you? Design is not only about creating something that is aesthetically pleasing, this is sometimes secondary in fact but I am interested in creating new objects, be it wearable or not that serves a function and in some way they eases your life. When i am designing my strongest work, combines the elements of functional concealment, a narrative and provides its owner with a an object of preciousness and sentimentality. My Light Switch rings ( see image 2 attached) integrate

all these features. W h at i n s p i r e s yo u r w o r k ? The house in which i was brought up in, was basically a bookshop. My father is a military historic bookseller and used it as his trading post. Every wall, nook and cranny was cramped with antiquarian books and as a result, the thing that inspires my work most (besides my dad), is age, nostalgia, the beauty i see in the imperfect, the rust, the tea stained photographs, the social life of objects and creating narratives about their previous lives and their owners, as i did so for my degree about Daisy Hooper. And where do i source this all from? car boots, antiques fairs, i am now a member of the ‘Ephemera Society’ so i get invited to specialist fairs and leave feeling like a contented closet train spotter. Yes, ultimate geek! W h e r e d o yo u ta k e e n e r gy a n d c r e at i v i t y f r o m ? I have too much energy, that’s my problem! i put it down to a cod liver oil tablet a day ( it’s less gross than it sounds) and a ridiculously enthusiastic mum to look up to. Observing objects around me and all my collections of tricklets empower my creativity. I am a sorcerer and have been scouring antique markets, fairs, charity shops for far too long, well ever since my older sister Em was prepared to bear the brunt of a ‘tag – along.’ From the age of 3 maybe? Who are your style icons?

Dandies with tailored tweeds and plus four’s, ideally waltzing up Saville Row? Rupert’s the bears dad maybe? Schiapparelli. To be honest, I have never been one to aspire to be anyone or look up to anyone i don’t already know. My older sisters, have been a great influence to me. I’m the baby of 4 older siblings so i never had to far to find a muse. Which is the best place in London to buy clothes? intage fairs, my favourite being held monthly at Cecil Sharpe House in Primrose Hill. I’m the model for the event, and this gives me a great opportunity to show off my jewels in my favourite of settings. When you are offered Victorian lace the has lasted the hardship of over 100 years and is near to pristine, very few things in the high street are worthy of the hype, let alone cost! W h o w o u l d y o u s ay i s t h e b e s t d r e s s e d m u s i c i a n n o w a d ay s ? My boyfriend, Nathan

obviously, especially when i adorn him in my jewels. He is one of the few men who can off my, ‘Lipstick on your collar’ wax seal pins. W h at ’s n e x t f o r yo u ? As a result of the success of my hand stamped wax seal jewellery from the collection ‘A love story. Paris 1946,’ my brother and I have launches a bespoke, modern day crest service called Jeweller for Life. I was getting inundated with requests to design personal monograms for individual for Life’ encapsulates all the jewellery elements that are most important to me. First and foremost preciousness, longevity and recreating new heirlooms of the future. Handcarved mock ivory light switch ring and silver, plated 18ct. rose gold. The light switch case (Mock ivory base turned on a lathe, silver and inlayed rose gold. (22ct) Photos and interview by Emanuele D’angelo.

customers, like my small tag at the back of my necklaces. This was initially designed by my older brother Ben. He now works closely with the customers to design them their crest or monogram and then i, magically transfer this into jewellery. Luckily my brother is a graphic designer so this collaboration works perfectly for the 2 of us, plus…. he understands me and my ‘nostalgic/vintage’ style. I put it all down to our dad! ‘Jeweller

L e s

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dangereu ses

Max wears: Shirt Nattaphon Sampataphakdee,Pants Childof Jago,Jacket Paul Smith, Shoes Nattaphon Sampataphakdee Opening page: Rosanne wears Skirt and tops Caroline Pambakian

Max wears: Shirt Nattaphon Sampataphakdee, Jacket Nattaphon Sampataphakdee, Pants Samantha Edwards, Shoes Doc Marteens Louis wears: Shirt Samantha Edwards, Jacket Robert Huth, Pants Nattaphon Sampataphakdee Shoes Doc Marteens

Louis wears: Shirt Samantha Edwards

Rosanne wears: Dress by Jiyun Lapthorn, Shoes stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Louis wears: Suit Paul Smith, Shoes Doc Marteens Max wears: Coat Paul Smith, Pants Nattaphon Sampataphakdee

Max wears: Jacket Masashi Nozaki, Pants Child of Jago, Shoes Doc Marteens Rosanne wears: Dress by Jiyun Lapthorn, Sunglasses Linda Farrow

Rosanne wears: Dress by Jiyun Lapthorn Louis and Max wear: Suit Robert Huth, Shoes Doc Marteens

Photographer: Akihito Igarashi, Stylist: CĂ¨cilia Cauville, Fashion director: Giuseppe Alagna, Hair: Yoshitaka Miyazaki Make up: Kanako Yoshida, executive director: Emanuele Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angelo Models: Rosanne, Max, Louis @ PREMIERE Location: Beach Blanket Babylon, Shoreditch London.

Comme des Garรงons

Paris Fashion Week

CAROLINE ISSA

We had the pleasure to interview Caroline Issa, the Co-owner and Fashion D i r e c t o r o f Ta n k M a g a z i n e . Tell us a little about y o u r s e l f. . . My name is Caroline Issa, I am Canadian and I have been in London for 8.5 years. I used to be a management consultant but I quit my job and joined the Tank Team 8 years ago. Now, I am Publisher, Co-Owner and Excutive Fashion Director of our magazines. We also have a small creative agency and launched a new online magazine called BecauseMagazine.com last year. When was your passion for fashion first born? Growing up, I was one of those girls that always read the latest Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Sassy magazines. I never thought I would actually end up working in the fashion industry, but life takes you along for the ride. It has been amazing - working with creative people you appreciate fashion so much more, and the passion continues! if you could describe fashion with 3 words? Inspirational, changing and fun. And 3 colours? Black, gold and purple. Everything luxury and lush! which month has been your b u s i e s t e v e r at ta n k ? I travel a lot but I definitely think that

the busiest months are February and September when the womenswear shows are on. I do the whole month of main fashion weeks and it means you are doing two jobs then - your actual work on top of attending all the shows - I can’t complain though! Top 5 Designers? Alber Elbaz from Lanvin, Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent, Proenza Schouler and Thakoon from New York, in London I love Erdem and the Felder Felder girls- but too many good ones to choose! And of the new designers which one do you pick? A young designer named Julian J Smith, actually he was Erdem’s pattern cutter. He has been showing at On/Off during the last two seasons. He is amazing and is definitely one to watch. W h at a b o u t photographers? At Tank we are lucky, we work with very established photographers as well as the up and coming! For example, the current Tank Magazine has a cover story by Ellen Von Unwerth and at the same time we have this young guy called Willem Jaspert. It’s a pleasure to put the very well known names and the unknowns side by side. Brandon & Brandon and Errol are just a few of the new photographers we like working with and who we are collaborating with.

NYC and its energy, but London’s energy is the best! For me London is the most interesting city in the world. which fashion week is the most interesting for you? Why?

w h at i s n e x t s t e p f o r yo u a n d f o r ta n k m a g a z i n e ? Three issues ago we reformatted Tank, spending more on the size and format of the magazine to make it stand out (it is now spiral bound). We use different papers - shiny and matte, within the magazine - we are really keeping Tank in the physical, tactile, collectible world. On the other hand we launched this new online magazine called www.BECAUSEMAGAZINE.COM which is purely the online expression of our fashion. We create little fashion videos for every product that we feature. The future is exploring both of these aspects. Why did you choose the name BECAUSE MAGAZINE? BECAUSEmagazine.com curates the best of what’s available online in fashion, jewellery, beauty and culture. Just BECAUSE... Do you prefer London or New York? I am a Londoner definitely..I love

All the fashion weeks are different. New York is all about really wearable and commercial clothes. London is all about creativity, young talents and new trends coming to the forefront. Milan again is about wearable clothes and real luxury. Paris is so inspiring and so beautiful which is really more inspirational as well. w h at a b o u t t h e s m a l l e r fashion weeks? I am just back from the Moscow Fashion Week and it was great to see young Russian designers that we don’t normally get to meet or see. There were some great young talents that deserve to be shown to a wider audience. It is very interesting to see how cities support their fashion designers and the creative industries. But I think you could spend your life travelling to the different local fashion weeks what a great life! w h at d o yo u t h i n k a b o u t bloggers sitting in the front row during fashion shows? I think it’s great-There are so many bloggers but there are an handful of fantastic bloggers like Garance Dore, Tommy from Jak and Jill, Scott the Sartorialist are original and thoughtful and bring a different perspective to the fashion press world.Quality

is key, no matter what platform. Bloggers hit the news this p a s t F e b r u a r y, a s t h e y s e e m to wield more power than m a g a z i n e e d i t o r s e t c. W h at d o you think about this? They will never wield more power, per se, just a different kind of power. Vogue Paris sells hundreds of thousand copies per month while Garance Dore’s blog gets more hits than that by viewers each day. Great bloggers have large followings and are powerful enough to make previously anonymous industry folk, like me for example! more known due to having a picture on a popular blog. It’s amazing... Ta n k m a g a z i n e h a s l a s t e d t h e test of time, when so many fold after just 12 months. Why do you think this is? No matter what you do the only way to survive is to create something of quality that people will spend money on and want to buy and keep. So we have been lucky to survive for 12 years because we have a fantastic, loyal readership who appreciate our point of view and put down £6 every quarter to buy our magazine. Yo u r p u b l i c at i o n h a s e m b r a c e d t e c h n o l o g y, h a v i n g l a u n c h e d Ta n k t v 8 y e a r s a g o, and now having a tumblr blog as well. Where do you see the magazine industry heading next? print magazines like Tank that are about quality and collectability will always survive, as well as key brand magazines such as Vogue and Elle. People still want to tear out

that page with THE outfit or an amazing visual, and stick it up on their wall, make a moodboard out of it, inspire them... We all have to use technology in a way that suits our point of view, so that will be different for everyone We have a Tank Blog which is all about the things that we see every day and we want to share with our audience. Twitter is an addictive thing too and a great way to get quick and fast info. The Ipad for example is going to help but not going to replace magazines. where do you see your self in 10 years? On the beach in the Bahamas (laugh), to be honest I take one day at the time. I learnt here at Tank you can plan as much as you like, but you need to be flexible. I hope in 10 years Tank will be still here, Because Magazine will be very sucessful and Tank Tv will continue a leading platform to find movie images. But what that’s going to look like!? I have no idea. Regardless, the next 10 years are going to be very intersting - actually, even just the next year is going to be very interesting... Photo and interview by Emanuele D’angelo.

M A I S O N M A R T I N

M A R G I E L A

P F

caught

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net

Dress by Vivienne Westwood

Shoes Bionda Castana

Sun glasses Cutler and Gross, Top and Pants Topshop

All by Beatrice Newman

top Beatrice Newman,underwear top shop,skirt Vivienne westwood, necklaces top shop,socks Beatrice Newman,shoes Beatrice Newman

Photographer: Angela Larotonda, Stylist: YU JEN WANG Hair and Make up: Christina Howell, Fashion director: Giuseppe Alagna executive director: Emanuele Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angelo Model: Bron @ M&P models

M a r i a c a r l a B o s c o n o b i r t h d a y p a r t y f o r G i v e n c h y, P a r i s f a s h i o n w e e k

R o b e r t N e w m a r k

Robert Newmark is the owner of the b a r - r e s ta u r a n t B e a c h Blanket Babylon, one of the most trendy place in London.. Tell us a little about y o u r s e l f. . . How do you describe the BBB? BBB is a brit cool, eclectic, eccentric cocktail and restaurant at the heart of two London’s best locations, Notting Hill and Shoreditch The Beach Blanket Babylon, why does the venue have this name? It is a really amazing carnival in San Francisco, we liked it, because for us, it encompasses the escapism we want people to feel when they come to our venues. W h at i s t h e c o n c e p t b e h i n d the BBB? It is a place that will always be famous for its cocktails and celebratory atmosphere, the eclectic surroundings have become a London institution and certainly have hosted and eclectic crowd! W h i c h a r e t h e m o s t i m p o r ta n t e v e n t s t h at yo u h o s t e d ? There have been so many, from Fashion week, private things for very famous people, Tom Ford threw a dinner here, Uma Thurman also, Prince Harry and Chelsey dined a deux, The Alice in Wonderland Ball, Kimberley Stewart’s birthday party, a private party for Mariah Carey.

Is there a unique and special d r i n k t h a t y o u o n ly h a v e a t BBB? The porn-star martini... the only martini I have ever seen served with it’s own shot of champagne! W h i c h s ta r s o r v i p s d i d yo u h av e at B B B ? A lot, though we try to never kiss and tell. It’s a great place with all the hiding places for people to come if they don’t want to be seen (and sometimes if they do) Why should people come to BBB? It is a unique fun place for dinner, cocktails and a general good time and has always attracted a well heeled crowd from media, fashion and finance. Which are the coolests venues in London? BBB Notting Hill and Shoreditch of course! I also like Soho House W h at d o yo u l i k e o f L o n d o n ? I like everything about London, tired of London, tired of life as they say. Photo and interview by Emanuele D’angelo.

v i v i e n n e

w e s t w o o d r

l o n d o n f a s h i o n

s pr i n g / s u mmer 2011

IMG Fashion Europe

Maia Guarnaccia IMG Fashion Europe

Tell us a little bit about yourself and your background... I studied philosopy in Italy and then started working in communication and marketing in London. My first experience was in a sales role for a publishing house and then I started to working in fashion at Vivienne Westwood,the best working experience of my career, where I became the marketing director. I worked there from 1997 to 2004. After this experience I came back to Italy to work for a publishing house called Baldini Castoldi Dalai Editore. Where i made publishing the one and only authorized biography of Giorgio Armani. Then I was called by Yoox.com, which was another very interesting experience. They are probably the most refined e-commerce in the lifestyle world. IMG called me in 2006 to join them in Paris. W h at i s yo u r p o s i t i o n t h e r e ? I act as Vice President of IMG Fashion Europe. London, Paris, Milan, Berlin, Moscow and Istanbul are our main areas of interest. Founded in 1960 with a handshake between Mark McCormack and golf legend Arnold Palmer, IMG has grown into a global operation. They invented the concept of managing a sports talent and then find an arena where the talent could express him-self. For example a golf player and a golf tournament. Same for a tennis player and tennis tournament. They start to

get the media rights to show and broadcast, then the sponsorship rights and the commercial value of it. This concept has been declined then in several subjects. That was late 50s, today IMG is envolved in sport, art, fashion, cinema etc. In fashion the talents are the models and their arena is the fashion week. W h at i s t h e r o l e o f I M G i n t h e Fashion Weeks? These are our areas of competence: commercial representation, organization, media rights, producing and consulting. Example, we own the Fashion Week in New York. In Berlin, the fashion week is a fully organized event by us. In Milan, we represent the FW commercially and we take care of the sponsors, same thing for London. In Istanbul,we have done consultancy, we assisted local enterpreneurs to develop a fashion platform. We bring the top designers from Cavalli to Ferragamo and Missoni to have a show there. We also had Bruce Willis as part of a very entertaining event. Media partner was CNN Turkey. W h at i s n e x t f o r I M G ? In London we run one event called Fashion Fringe Covent Garden, which is probably the most sophisticated program to search for new talents in fashion design. The artistic director, the person who had this vision is called Colin McDowell. The new chairman as been John Galliano. Previously the chairman were Donatella Versace

My colleguaes are always finding new faces. This is very challenging and with a lot of responsibilities. It’s very educational as well because they teach them how to be successful and be professional. I think this is very important. I have to say that 9 times out of 10, the best worlwide models are from IMG. Big names such Gisele, Lily Cole, Lara Stone or Naomi Cambell are or have been IMG clients.

and Tom Ford. Now, they will decide who is going to be the best new innovative designers. Erdem, Gareth Pugh, Basso and Brooke are all former winners of Fashion Fringe. It takes place in september in Covent Garden,usually the finalists and winner create the back bone of the London Fashion Week. Who was the winner this year? Corrie Nielsen Who are your favourites designers? I think Italian and French designers are leading the world. London is very interesting for young creativity. I don’t think there are many established brands in the UK that could compete with the French and Italian ones. The only ones are Burberry and Westwood and a few others. The one that I really like is Zegna, is just a very qualitative brand. Tell me about IMG Models. . .

You work beetween London, Pa r i s a n d N e w Yo r k . . w h at d o you like most of these cities? In Paris there is a very good quality of life, people are working to live and not living to work. New York is perfect for developing, increasing and expanding a business. There is the highest standard in the world for management. Similar for London, in terms of quality of life I think they are highly overrated for what real quality of life is. That’s of course only my personal opinion. In London for example I love the fantastic parks and the huge respect for nature. It is an amazing hub for culture, trends and entertainament, but I think London (as New York) has not developed something by itself in a long time. The foreigners are bringing the new energy and ideas to the city, it’s not the locals that bring something new or set the trends. The other cities like Barcelona, Rome, Paris or Berlin have stronger identities and personalities. I don’t know if this is something good or bad. I

repeat that London and New York are the most attractive, constructive and free hubs and platforms to develop and express yourself. Probably no others cities in the world could give you this. However, in terms of quality of life, the other capitals are much more interesting to live. Photo and interview by Emanuele Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angelo.

BACKSTAGE LONDON FASHION WEEK BORA AKSU CHRISTOPHER KANE KINDER MARIA GRACHVOGEL spring summer 2011

Solo in his London studio in Shoreditch

S o l o i s a n h o u s e d j t h at moved from Rome to London 4 years ago and he is doing a l w ay s b i g g e r a n d b e t t e r . . . Tell us a little bit about y o u r s e l f. . . W h y a n d w h e n d i d yo u s ta r t t o be a dj? I ve started very young, around 15 years old, initially because I wanted to do scratch competitions, then I moved to the club scene Which was the first record you ever bought? mmm probably michael jackson , Thriller

Why did you choose this name “Solo”? I’m asking myself the same question every day..

centered in london, besides, in rome is easy to have a lazy lifestyle and be happy! How would you describe your sound? Midget House Who would you like to work with in the future? Snoop dogg!

How do you see the future of house music? I think this is a very good period for house music, lots of young producers in the game,and generally there’ s a comeback of classy tunes..

Which is the artist to look for next? Snoop Dogg!

W h o a n d w h at a r e yo u r influences?

T o p 1 0 p l ay l i s t o f t h i s summer?

I listen to lots of Heavy metal, hip hop,old african music..

Everything that went out on deadfish label, made to play, including tracks by Zombie Disco Squad, Mowgli, Myself,Riva Starr.. we all made people dance this summer...:)

Which is the most amazing p l a c e y o u e v e r p l ay e d ? oh, so many! Australia is quite fun, but also in belgium parties are wild!

Which place would you love to p l ay i n ? Space in Ibiza

Why did you decide to move from Rome to London? To become more serious about music production.. the dance business is

Photo and interview by Emanuele D’angelo.