3 minute read

Feast the Basalt Plains

Neil Churches

The western district of Victoria is one of the richest farming districts of the world. It’s dark volcanic soil vigorously supporting whatever grows or grazes from or on it. Those who have lived there for generations appreciate its quiet beauties.

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The subtle shifts of climate, the qualities of its vast cloudscapes. For the traveller, this space is easily overlooked by the larger glamours to the north and south: Gariwerd/Grampians and the Great Ocean Road. These two remarkable places are now filled by those looking to enjoy startling landscapes. The basalt plains of the western district are quieter, but equally remarkable. One of the largest volcanic fields in the world, with around 5,500 craters, from Hamilton to Mt Gambier, Ballarat to Geelong.

The cuisine of this region is being remade by new artisans, working with local produce, global sensibilities, ancient techniques and recipes. It is a quiet change that matches its landscape.

Feast The Basalt Plains is a new gastronomy tour that brings this landscape and cuisine to the sophisticated traveller over a four day journey. Local knowledge is shared over meals at surprising locations. from the small wildernesses of remnant dry rainforests to wool-sheds. However, it is not all eating and drinking fabulous fare. First, work up an appetite. Walk across native grass fields to stunning crater lakes. Climb a forested cinder cone to count how many other sleeping volcanoes can be seen in any direction. Promenade the European gardens of the local palaces built by squatters off the sheep’s back.

There are discussions with winemakers throughout the journey about adapting European and New World viticulture methods to the Basalt Plains. This may be comprehensively tested in tasting and food matching by any hungry adventurer.

Remarkably, there are pictures of most of these places from the 1850s, painted by Eugen von Guerard, who travelled through the district as an illustrator for scientific expeditions. His detail and delight in the landscape is telling. Placing yourself at the viewpoint of these paintings and sketches allows you to see how the bones of the landscape remain constant, while the skin has been shifted. They are remarkable images, the first accurate European visual record and the last view of ancient cultivation.

In 2019, UNESCO granted World Heritage status to the Budj Bim Lake Condah region. It’s one of the oldest (if not the oldest) aquaculture centres in the world. The eel traps created from local vegetation allow a steady supply of eel for smoking. Depending on the season and weather, this landscape is explored with the expert guidance of its generational custodians.

Koroitj Tower Hill has a microclimate that defines the cuisine within and surrounding its crater. Local variations of traditional recipes, indigenous, Asian and European are explored in the meal that follows the walk around this nested maar wildlife reserve.

The Sisters are an extraordinary landscape of interlocking craters of vast size on the way to Lake Kurrumbeit. There is a remarkable sense of enfolding and enclosure as you pass through them to the pale blue waters of the volcanic lake.

The Cloven Hills, Derrinallum, Mt Elephant, and Camperdown are all landmarks that change their mood depending on the time of day and angle of approach.

The galvanised iron and bluestone that dot these spaces only look important close to hand. They disappear against the contours of sleeping lava. They do represent important moments in the last two hundred years; and are a record of how industrialised agriculture has engaged with the rich soil flowing across this region.

Each day begins with a deluxe glamp breakfast at a new hearth. There will be approximately three hours walking per day and no more than three hours of driving time.

Guests are driven in luxury cars to their residing spot, large glamping tents. All luggage is ported and a full service is provided throughout the journey.

There is an opportunity early in 2021 to participate in the last scoping tour, before the itinerary is completely locked in for the autumn season.

Please get in contact with Neil Churches from The Crow’s Flight to discuss your interest on +61 425 753 988 or neil@thecrowsflight.com

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