THE
TRAVEL ISSUE 21
TOP TRIPS FOR 2017
FEATURING CARIBBEAN BLISS IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS SAFARI TO SAND IN TANZANIA CUBA BY SUPERYACHT BASKING ON BILLIONAIRE’S BEACH RIVER TO RAILS IN PERU MASTER CHEFS IN MELBOURNE & MORE
JAN UARY 2017 A ROBB REPORT MEDIA PUBLICATION
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Inside an old barn nestled in the Hestan Vineyards of Napa Valley, a collective of innovative chefs, vintners and engineers is reinventing the way we cook. From the molecular structure of cookware to the technique of cooking itself, Hestan is forging new culinary ground with thoughtful design and ceaseless passion. Visit The Barn at hestan.com.
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January
ARIS VRAKAS
CONTENTS VOLUME 41 | NUMBER 1
Tanzania’s Mwiba Lodge (see page 106).
JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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IT TAKES A LEGEND TO CREATE ONE.
Discover a new level of luxury. Flagler Club is an ultra-exclusive, 25-room boutique hotel atop The Breakers Palm Beach, created to provide guests with an elevated level of service, comfort, and privacy with access to everything the legendary resort has to offer.
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January CONTENTS
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46
DEPARTMENTS
24 Editor’s Notebook
32
The Robb Perfect 10 Our editors share their dream trips for 2017, from heli-skiing off a yacht in Alaska and trekking with camels in Mongolia to an art excursion in Cape Town and a cross-country journey by private train.
70
Personal Best
41 FrontRunners A fabulous five-deck superyacht for your next expedition, four winter driving destinations for auto enthusiasts, travel-friendly fashions for 2017, and more.
50
NFL wide receiver Larry Fitzgerald is turning his passion for adventure into a unique new company. BY MARGIE GOLDSMITH
125 Portfolio An epic private art collection on view in Paris, Patek Philippe’s newest travel watch, and more.
61
130 Classifieds 131 Advertiser
Passport TOP: JEREMY MASON MCGRAW; UPPER RIGHT: JEFF BROWN
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Our getaway guide for globe-trotters goes on safari in Zimbabwe, tastes the latest in the Cape Winelands, and checks in to new hotels in New York, Lake Como, and Oahu.
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ON THE COVER KIMPTON SEAFIRE RESORT & SPA; PHOTOGRAPHY BY DON RIDDLE IMAGES
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Check out RobbReport.com for more great escapes for the discerning traveler, including new ski chalets in Switzerland, a beachside retreat in Anguilla, and an AMG driving experience in New Zealand. JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
21
Editor’s Notebook
Moving Pieces “For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” —Robert Louis Stevenson
THE PERIPATETIC AUTHOR of Treasure Island certainly moved, journeying from Europe to California to the South Pacific. I secretly read this, his first commercially successful novel, in a guest bedroom of my grandparents’ home, long after lights and wakefulness were forbidden. Who among us—boy or girl— did not envy Jim Hawkins, who sets sail from Bristol for the Caribbean in search of gold only to discover this bounty grimly wrapped in the arms of a skeleton? I found treasure of a different kind in that region while writing “Paradise Restored” (page 96)—some of it in liquid form (left) and also clasped in bony hands.
SOPHY ROBERTS ALSO moves, but not always in the most luxurious circles. She too has encountered remains—not of treasure seekers but of Africa’s most endangered species. Her contribution, “The Wild Philanthropists” (page 106), documents the expeditions of a handful of conscientious travelers into regions where poachers threaten the existence of whole animal populations. Her journey was not without its perks, however, as her time at a remote airport VIP lounge (below) affirms.
Brett Anderson, Editor in Chief CORRECTION: The Plasma Premium triathlon bike featured in the December 2016 issue’s “Man Up” Ultimate Gift was designed and produced by Scott Sports (scott-sports.com).
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ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
TOP: BRETT ANDERSON; MIDDLE: CORDERO STUDIOS/CORDEROSTUDIOS.COM
STILL, MOVEMENT—NO matter how enthusiastically prescribed by Stevenson—does not always serve the traveler well, as editor Janice O’Leary learned while researching “Dream Trips” (page 117). For her piece, which offers some practical advice for those of us whose slumber is seriously compromised by our wanderlust, Janice underwent a sleep study at Canyon Ranch in Tucson, Ariz., where her nocturnal experience was not a comfortable one. With an octopus of wires attached to nearly every part of her body, she gained one insight: “Deep sleep,” she observed, “doesn’t come when you’re afraid to move for fear of disconnecting yourself.”
©2016 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
H O T E L S T H AT D E F I N E T H E D E S T I N AT I O N ™ Designed by visionary architect Frank O. Gehry, Hotel Marqués de Riscal features contemporary allure in the Basque Country. Experience a curated ensemble of the world’s most iconic destinations at The Luxury Collection hotels and resorts. Explore the collection at theluxurycollection.com
HOTEL MARQUÉS DE RISCAL A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL E LC I EG O, S PA I N
Where the memories they make last inďŹ nitely longer.
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Let the Stories Begin. Whether your plans call for a romantic retreat, a family adventure, or an urban escape, we invite you to experience our collection of extraordinary destinations. From the legendary shores of Hawaii to the charm of the South Carolina coast, Montage Hotels & Resorts provides the perfect backdrop to create memories that can be cherished long after you return home.
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iscover new destinations and unique experiences, carefully curated by a select group of our partners, that will inspire the ultimate explorer in you. Find your next adventure at robbreport.com/ei.
EXCEPTIONAL ITINERARIES ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI
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To see the itineraries, visit robbreport.com/ei.
The American Safari
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Glamping (glamorous camping) at The Resort at Paws Up is more than an overnight stay in a tent. It’s our way of introducing you to the grandeur of the American West, at a level of luxury unimagined in days gone by. We call it The American Safari. Join us in May for spectacular Montana spring weather, lower rates and Montana Master Grillers—our Memorial Day weekend culinary event dedicated to the art of gourmet grilling. Call today to request a mailed copy of our 2017 Program of Events.
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W W W . P A W S U P . C O M
THE ROBB
Perfect 10 January
THE DESTINATIONS OUR EDITORS ARE DREAMING ABOUT FOR 2017.
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ADAM CL ARK
1
Three things I’ve never done: heli-ski, charter a yacht, go to Alaska. So my choice is clear—the new-for-2017 charter trip on Prince William Sound with Black Ops Valdez (blackops valdez.com). The operator’s 72-foot Christian will take skiers deep into the Chugach Mountains, shuttling them to the pristine peaks with its onboard helicopter. —BRUCE WALLIN
JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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The Robb Perfect 10 January
2 3
Ever since meeting Jochen Zeitz in 2013, I have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of his Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (zeitzmocaa .museum). Debuting this fall, the Cape Town museum will house the world’s largest collection of contemporary African art. Perched atop the museum, the Silo hotel (left; theroyalportfolio .com) will itself be a work of art. —JACKIE CARADONIO
I’m packing my bags for New York City—this time for pleasure, not business. I’ll climb Lady Liberty’s 354 stairs, then take my appetite to Midtown’s Gabriel Kreuther (gknyc.com). My home base: the InterContinental New York Barclay (below; intercontinentalnybarclay.com), whose recent renovation—restyled Gin Parlour included—makes clear it’s not just for business travelers. —LORI BRYAN
4
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BOTTOM: FOTOTRAV/ISTOCK
The island of Koh Samui in Thailand tops my list for 2017, partly for its soon-to-open Ritz-Carlton (ritzcarlton.com) in the breathtaking Choeng Mon area. My perfect day would consist of paddleboarding between dramatic limestone cliffs before feasting on a beachside picnic of pomelo salad with prawns. –JANICE O’LEARY
The Robb Perfect 10 January
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Scandinavia’s mix of rugged landscapes and forwardthinking cities has always called to me. This year, I’m dreaming of road-tripping through the design meccas of Stockholm and Copenhagen, then winding my way back up to the northernmost tip of Denmark to stand where the Baltic and North Seas collide. —PHOEBE NEUMAN
7
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TOP: SCANRAIL/ISTOCK; BOTTOM: CHARLES JASON WOLCOTT
I want to travel across country by train—but not just any train. I’ll ride the Patrón Tequila Express (patron tequila.com), the 1927 private rail car owned by Patrón Spirits founder John Paul DeJoria. The 85-footlong car includes three opulent staterooms, which might explain why DeJoria calls rail travel the most relaxing way to see the States. —LARRY BEAN
EXPERIENCE A BETTER PLACE TO SEE, BE SEEN AND BE UNSEEN. With a floor-to-ceiling transformation in the guest rooms, suites and beyond, the all new Four Seasons Resort Maui is taking perfection to new heights. Here, in a sanctuary of your choosing, you’ll find everything you’ve always wanted in a vacation—only better.
Book today by contacting your Travel Professional, calling (808) 874-8000 or visiting fourseasons.com/maui
The Robb Perfect 10 January
8
Mongolia’s Three Camel Lodge (threecamel lodge.com) is my perfect middleof-nowhere escape. Set in the southern Gobi Desert, the remote resort hosts epic excursions on foot and by camel through Gegeet Valley, offering glimpses of Siberian ibex, big-horned argali sheep, and—if I’m lucky—snow leopards. —CAROLYN MEERS
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I long to visit Armenia—where my roots and wanderlust meet—to discover everything from ancient ruins to a new Luxury Collection hotel (theluxurycollection .com), set to debut in the capital of Yerevan this summer. My first stop: the mountainous Syunik province, where the ninth-century Tatev monastery overlooks a vast abyss from its basalt-plateau perch. —ANUSH BENLIYAN
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TOP: GAN-ULZII.G; MIDDLE: ALEXEY MASHTAKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: JACKIE CARADONIO
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CALIBER RM 67-01 EXTRA FLAT
DISCOVER // ACQUIRE // EXPERIENCE
FrontRunners Good to Go Top-drawer travel is first and foremost hassle free, so here we present a host of new accessories and apparel that can make any trip smoother, smarter, and more stylish. From an ergonomically designed trolley case to dualtime-zone watches and a packable waterresistant jacket, these eminently useful pieces are instant travel upgrades. CURATED BY JILL NEWMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA CHARLES WATSON STYLING BY
CHARLES W. BUMGARDNER
From top: Louis Vuitton Pégase Légère 55 carry-on in Damier Graphite coated canvas with leather detail, $3,800 (louisvuitton.com); Loewe briefcase, $2,190 (loewe.com); Mark Cross Grace leather trunk, $8,250 (at matchesfashion.com); Goyard Palace 55 trunk in black Goyardine canvas with leather detail, $9,900 (212.813.0005). ³ JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
41
FrontRunners Style
Mark Cross Grace leather trunk, $8,250 (at matchesfashion.com); Luigi Bianchi Mantova wool sport coat with removable vest, $975 (at Ziani, 212.302.3661); Kiton cashmere-and-silk sweater, $2,200 (kiton.it); Etro linen paisley-print shirt, $440 (at neimanmarcus.com); PT Pantaloni Torino cotton-and-elastane pants, $425 (at marcalleninc.com); Fratelli Rossetti loafers with rubber sole, $400 (fratellirossetti.com).
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ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
Goyard Ambassade PM Goyardine-canvas briefcase with handles and leather detail, $3,315 (212.813.0005); Loewe flat pouch in black embossed leather, $1,150 (loewe.com); Elisabeth Weinstock blue snakeskin passport holder, $275, and snakeskin flask, $300 (elisabethweinstock.com); FabergĂŠ Visionnaire DTZ dual-time-zone watch (top left) in 18-karat white gold and titanium, $29,500 (646.559.9125); Manufacture Royale 1770 Haute Voltige dual-time-zone watch (top right) with steel case, $36,300 (917.740.7785); Bottega Veneta luggage tag, $420 (at mrporter.com); Bally leather wallet, $275 (bally.com).
JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
43
FrontRunners Style
Ghurka coated-leather duffel, $1,425 (at barneys.com); Brunello Cucinelli suede sneakers, $825 (brunellocucinelli.com); Paul & Shark waterresistant nylon jacket, $750 (paulshark.it); Garrett Leight California Optical sunglasses, from top: Van Buren silver frames with gradient mirror lenses, $395, Hampton Combo bone-and-metal frames with mirror lenses, $460, and Warren tortoise color frames with polarized lenses, $375 (garrettleight .com); Hector Saxe travel backgammon set, $395 (at mrporter.com). 44
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
I F YO U ’ R E G O I N G TO T H I N K A N Y WAY, T H I N K B I G EXPERIENCE CHINESE FINE DINING AT MOTT 32, THE TRUMP CHAMPAGNE LOUNGE, AND THE SPA BY IVANKA TRUMP™.
I N T R O D U C I N G T R U M P ® I N T E R N AT I O N A L H O T E L & T O W E R VA N C O U V E R Forbes Travel Guide Most Anticipated Hotel Openings of 2016 NEW YORK | CENTRAL PARK & SOHO
CHICAGO
LAS VEGAS
WAIKIKI
MIAMI
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TORONTO
VANCOUVER
PANAMA
RIO DE JANEIRO IRELAND | DOONBEG E s t a t e C o l l e c t i o n WINERY | CHARLOTTESVILLE SCOTLAND | ABERDEEN C o m i n g S o o n BALI LIDO T R U M P H OT E L S .CO M
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
CHARTER CHOICE
Coral Ocean The once-reclusive 238-foot Bannenberg design has aged gracefully.
T
he Lürssen-built Coral Island recently underwent a refit that updated some of its technical systems to comply with current charter standards and regulations. It also had its name changed to Coral Ocean. Other than those alterations, the 238-foot, five-deck superyacht remains much the same as when it launched in 1994—and it’s as attractive and accommodating now as it was then. This a testament to the late Jon Bannenberg’s forward-thinking design, which
includes several features that were innovations 23 years ago and have since become superyacht staples: an interior gym and spa area, a beach club at the stern, and a saloon with an open-air balcony. Until last year, the vessel was used exclusively by its owner and kept away from any media coverage. Thus it remained Bannenberg’s secret, unseen masterpiece. But now the secret is out, and Coral Ocean is on the charter market, where it promises to be one of the most sought-after yachts. ➜
JEFF BROWN
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BLA C K AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT
carl-f-bucherer.com
800.395.2306
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
Main-Deck Saloon One of the saloon’s outer walls flips up, transforming a section of the space into a balcony overlooking the sea. The decor features a mix of burr-oak furniture, rough marble, and fractured-and-polished glass tables from Italy. The formal dining room’s walls are made of burr birch, silver leaf, and tree bark. A piece of the wall paneling can be inserted between the room’s two round tables to form one large one. The aft section of the main deck can host a cocktail party or other social event; it’s large enough to accommodate 80 people.
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Chartering Coral Ocean BUILDER: Lürssen DELIVERED: 1994; relaunched in 2016 LENGTH: 238 feet CABINS: 6 GUESTS: 12 CREW: 19 CRUISING AREAS: Caribbean in winter; Mediterranean in summer WEEKLY BASE RATE: $320,000 winter; $365,000 summer (price based on the exchange rate in early November) HIGHLIGHTS: Designer Jon Bannenberg purchased an entire exhibit from a New York City art gallery specializing in South Pacific folk art and decorated the yacht with those items. The exhibit included art from Africa and Asia that also became part of the yacht’s decor. CONTACT: Burgess, burgessyachts.com
JEFF BROWN
Beach Club and Sundeck The spa, which includes a steam room, gym, and showers, can be accessed directly from the lower-deck guest suites. You also can go straight from the spa to the beach club and swim platform. The multilevel sundeck features a pool and a vast expanse of teak. A window in the top deck’s lobby looks into the pool, offering a view of the tiles that form the yacht’s red-coral emblem.
Master Suite and VIP Suite Located on the forward portion of the top deck, the master suite features wraparound windows, a skylight above the bed, a dressing area, and a bathroom with twin vanities. The VIP suite on the deck below can serve as an extension of the master suite or as separate quarters with large windows, burr-birch wall panels, and floors carpeted in virgin wool from New Zealand. The suite can be connected to the upper-deck lounge, which includes a study. —MICHAEL VERDON
“JEWELS
THIS SPECIAL COULD ONLY COME FROM
B E V E R L Y
H I L L S
•
N E W
Y O R K
•
B E R G D O R F
Martin Kat z .”
G O O D M A N
The Eiffel Tower Emerald Drop Earrings are set with two half-moon cabochon emeralds weighing 6.60cts and 6.52cts, two half-moon diamonds and 840 microset diamonds and emeralds; all set in 18kt white gold.
FrontRunners Machines & Gear
Winter Driver Destinations If you’re an auto enthusiast looking for places to go and things to do this month or next, we have some suggestions, including the Southwest—to buy, browse, or present collector cars—and just south of the Arctic Circle to guide high-performance grand-tourers across sheets of ice.
Q Phoenix and Scottsdale, Arizona The third week in January is Classic Car Week in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area. It begins with the fourth annual Arizona Concours d’Elegance (arizonaconcours.com) at the Arizona Biltmore hotel in Phoenix, where 90 cars in more than a dozen classes will compete for the Best of Show prize. This year’s event will spotlight classic Lincolns, Vignale coachwork, and cars from Bugatti. Later in the week, the Biltmore will host RM Sotheby’s (rmsothebys .com) annual Arizona sale. Meanwhile, a few miles away, Barrett-Jackson (barrett-jackson.com), Bonhams
(bonhams.com), and Gooding & Company (goodingco .com) will host their annual Scottsdale auctions.
Q Arjeplog, Sweden This remote outpost just south of the Arctic Circle is the ultimate playground for winter-driving shenanigans. It’s home to numerous auto brands’ winter-driving schools, including the AMG Driving Academy Winter Sporting program (mercedes-amg.com). Lessons are conducted on a variety of configurations (including a subscale homage to the Spa-Francorchamps circuit) across hundreds of acres of snow and ice. On this terrain, instructors teach the finer points of power-sliding in vehicles ranging from the A45 hatchback to the mighty 503 hp GT S.
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TOP: DAIMLER AG - GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS MERCEDES-BENZ CARS
Q Manchester, Vermont The Green Mountains offer an abundance of winter activities: downhill and cross-country skiing, tubing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, dog-sledding. And thanks to the roughly 6 feet of snow that usually falls on the region during this season, you can also refresh or improve your winter-driving skills at the Land Rover Experience Driving School at the Equinox Golf Resort & Spa (equinoxresort .com). The school operates on a purpose-built course that covers 80 acres. It’s open year-round, but during the winter months you can expect plenty of practice on snow-covered, slippery terrain.
Q Carson, California The recently opened Porsche Experience Center Los Angeles (porschedriving.com), located south of the city proper, is the West Coast counterpart to the facility that opened 2 years ago in Atlanta. In addition to housing the brand’s North American motorsport division, the L.A. center features driving courses where you can get behind the wheel of a new Porsche and learn how to get out of a tailspin and other skills. You also can explore just how fast the car accelerates, and feel the g-forces that come with entering a banked racetrack turn at speed.
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X Marks the Sweet Spot JetSuite’s new shuttle service offers private-flight conveniences at commercial prices.
W
e’reallfamiliarwiththeinconveniences of commercial aviation: security lines, the interminable boarding process, cramped seating, and often-dicey Wi-Fi service, among others. Private flight can address these issues, but atasteepprice.Tobridgethedividebetween the two options, the charter operator JetSuite has launched its own hybrid shuttle service, JetSuiteX (x.jetsuite.com). It
provides regularly scheduled flights aboard a 30-seat Embraer ERJ 135 between Los Angeles, San Francisco, Las Vegas, San Jose, and Bozeman, Mt. You pay no membership fees or fees for checked bags, and you can book a seat— online or with the company’s app—as late as 15 minutes before departure. The most inexpensive flight leg is $129; many cost around $200. The flights take off from the
airports’ general-aviation terminals, so passengers avoid long security delays. “We’re trying to bring speed back to aviation,” says Alex Wilcox, the CEO of JetSuite. The interior of a JetSuiteX Embraer ERJ 135 feels more like an airliner’s businessclass section than a private jet, but it offers much of what frequent fliers want, including Wi-Fi and beverage-and-snack service. —MICHELLE SEATON
Alex Wilcox The CEO of JetSuite speaks with Robb Report about JetSuiteX’s costs, conveniences, and customers. and billionaires fly commercially because they’re looking
JetSuiteX. What does this mean for the company?
for value. These are basically commercial-airline fares that
This is a game changer for us. JetBlue can really help us in
we charge. Our customers love us especially for short
terms of getting our product to grow. We created
flights. If you are going to Tokyo, who cares about
JetSuiteX because we wanted a product that we
spending an extra hour in the terminal? But if you are
[JetSuite’s management team] could afford and that our
going to San Jose, an extra hour doubles your travel time.
friends could afford. Private jets are great and fun, but they’re not affordable for mere mortals.
You note that customers have the option of booking the entire flight. Why would someone do that?
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Why would someone who is used to flying on a private jet
We let you charter a 30-passenger jet for seven grand an
use JetSuiteX? Or for that matter, why would someone
hour. You can charter the plane and fly from Los Angeles
who routinely charters one of JetSuite’s Phenom 300s
to Tucson to watch a game, and if you fill the plane, it’s
want to use this service and fly with 29 strangers?
about $250 per person there and back. We’re getting a
Some of our biggest advocates are JetSuite customers.
massive amount of interest for event flights, corporate
They fly on commercial airlines routinely. Lots of millionaires
flights, even destination weddings and bachelor parties.
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
TOP: CEAN ONE ST UDIOS; BOTTOM: JOEL KIMMEL
JetBlue recently made a minority equity investment in
RESORT & VILLAS FAMILIES WEDDINGS GROUPS GOLF EQUESTRIAN TENNIS SHOOTING SPA MARINA GASTRONOMY
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FrontRunners Taste
O
Lofty Lair
ne of Napa Valley’s most location-driven labels, ironically, had no proper home for more than two decades. When vintner Barbara Banke and her late husband, Jess Jackson, founded Lokoya (lokoya.com) in 1995, they considered one of the properties that contributes to its portfolio of mountaingrown Cabernet Sauvignons as a potential winery site. “We always knew Lokoya would be in the mountains,” says Banke. “We had at one point considered building something on Mount Veeder, but its location was almost too remote.” During this quest, winemaker Chris Carpenter produced wines from three appellations—Mount Veeder,HowellMountain,andDiamond Mountain—in the winery at Cardinale Estate, which he also oversees. But the addition in 2005 of a fourth, Spring Mountain, led Banke and team to investigate the acreage in this district that would at last become Lokoya’s base. “We noticed the vineyards first,” she says. “Then the winery caught our eye.” The building, constructed in the 1960s, is a mammoth assemblage of raw-stone masonry that, with its
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peaked roofline and turret, itself resembles a mountain. Undaunted by the edifice’s dark interiors, Banke called in the architect Howard Backen, of Backen, Gillam, & Kroeger, in 2014. “Howard and I first looked at each other and went, ‘Oh, wow, maybe not,’” says John Taft, Backen’s associate, of his first visit. “But then we saw the concrete columns, capitals, and the symmetry of the building.” Taft and Backen replaced the stained glass with clear panes and gutted the interior to reveal its scale. A contemporary glass-and-steel terrace was added to the eastern facade, drawing in the sunlight and sweeping mountain and valley views. The finished reception area, which can be visited by appointment only, is at once expansive and intimate. “The space can host multiple groups without having anyone feel as though they’re on top of each other,” says Taft. “This is the highest level of hospitality.” For Banke, the winery is an embodiment of the wines themselves. “It’s sleek and modern in a classic structure,” she says. “It is sophisticated but has strength as well, much like Lokoya.” —BRETT ANDERSON
CALIBER RM 037
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Basque to the Future Q LONDON’S ONE ALDWYCH hotel is now playing host
to Michelin three-star chef Eneko Atxa’s eponymous new restaurant (eneko.london). Its menu celebrates modern Basque cuisine, similar to what he dishes up at his acclaimed Azurmendi restaurant near Bilbao. Push through the restaurant’s heavy cast-iron doors and descend its dramatic copper staircase to the contemporary basement dining area. High-ceilinged yet intimate, this beautiful candlelit atrium is, like the food, simultaneously rustic and luxurious. The Memories of the Bay of Biscay seafood starter, featuring oysters and herring roe, plays a starring role, theatrically accompanied by its very own smoke machine in the form of fresh seawater poured over dry ice. Meanwhile, the entrees include a rich oxtail stew elevated beyond its humble origins with a mushroom emulsion and decorative nasturtiums. The meal concludes with a traditional Basque sponge torrija—rich, subtly sweet, and soaked in milk—accompanied by a decadent sheep’s-milk ice cream. The restaurant’s distinctive combination of simplicity and sophistication is echoed in the wine list, a thoughtful selection of exclusively Spanish wines. Here, “house wine” lives up to its name—several of the wines are produced by Atxa and his uncle. Such touches are just one reason this restaurant is a welcome addition to London’s dynamic dining scene. —WILLIAM KELLEY
Tiki, Take Two Q ONE HARDLY EXPECTS to find a Polynesian paradise hidden
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TOP: NICK ROCHOWSKI PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM: DUSTIN DOWNING
behind a “secret” door on the fourth floor of a restaurant on a busy city corner. But Pacific Seas is no ordinary tiki-themed cocktail lounge. It is a recent reincarnation of the 1939 Los The Pacific Seas Fog Cutter Angeles landmark Clifton’s Pacific Seas restaurant, 1 oz. Aviation American gin originally created by Clifford Clinton. Its reemer1 oz. Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Gold Rum gence is part of a multimillion-dollar restoration of 1 oz. Hennessy VSOP Cognac the original Clifton’s by Los Angeles real estate 2 oz. fresh lime juice entrepreneur Andrew Meieran. “I’ve always been 1 oz. fresh house-made orgeat syrup ½ oz. dry curaçao fascinated by Polynesian culture,” says Meieran, 2 dashes simple syrup “and by that golden era of exploration and adven1 dash Angostura bitters ture, where suddenly the world opened up.” ½ oz. cream sherry Exploration is personified at Pacific Seas in its Shake all ingredients except the cream sherry tiki cocktails, which include the legendary rumin a cocktail shaker with crushed ice and pour and-gin-based Fog Cutter. It is a matter of dispute unstrained into a tiki mug. Trickle the cream sherry on top as a float and garnish with as to whether the concoction was invented in mint. Serve with a paper bamboo straw so Hollywood during the 1930s by Don the Beachthat the sherry has time to gradually settle comber’s bartender Tony Ramos or in Oakland, into the drink as you sip. Calif., in the 1940s by “Trader Vic” Bergeron. Either way, Bergeron’s explanation for the origin of the cocktail’s name still stands: “Fog Cutter—hell, after two of these you won’t even see the stuff.” —RICHARD CARLETON HACKER
Discover a Land
NOT FAR AWAY There is a land within Los Angeles, where people come to escape. A land with its own culture and way of life. And endless room to roam.
T E R R A N E A C O M |
FrontRunners Taste
Capital Eats
S
The center of the emerging mid-Atlantic cuisine, Washington, D.C., is now on the map as a true dining destination.
ince the turn of the century, the nation’s capital has become known not only as a United Nations of menus but also for developing its own distinctive food style—dubbed mid-Atlantic cuisine—which was acknowledged by Michelin last fall with the publication of its first guide for the city. The concept employs local ingredients, such as Chesapeake Bay seafood, Virginia beef, Pennsylvania mushrooms, and Maryland produce, and they
are often prepared with an international flair. “I moved here in 2008,” says Michael Santoro, the executive chef at Kingbird in the city’s Watergate Hotel and a devotee of cast-iron cooking, “and in the years since, the food scene has just exploded.” While acclaimed chefs such as Daniel Boulud have exported their brands to D.C. (2 years ago he opened DBGD Kitchen and Bar), the true landmarks on the culinary map seem to be homegrown. —ROGER MORRIS
The Backroom at Kingbird
Pineappl an Pearls
Pineapple and Pearls
Minibar
CHEF: Michael Santoro has just added to his Kingbird restaurant at the Watergate Hotel by opening an attached space, the Backroom, which serves tasting menus.
CHEF: Aaron Silverman parked his second venture, Pineapple and Pearls (its name is a nod to classic symbols of hospitality and elegance), near Capitol Hill, and it recently garnered two Michelin stars.
CHEF: Spanish-born José Andrés began his culinary climb in 1993 (at the age of 23) in D.C. with Jaleo, a pioneer in the “small plates” concept. But it’s at Minibar that he earned his two Michelin stars.
SIGNATURE: Locally sourced ingredients such as blue crab, rockfish, and pawpaws, with a French influence. Expect to see dishes like John Dory draped in caviar, quince, and salsify, or a squash velouté with spiced marshmallow, huckleberry, and crispy sage.
SIGNATURE: A whimsical and theatrical approach, such as roasted-potato ice cream or fluke with “scales” of paper-thin grape slices. But the show ($250 in all for beverage and food pairings) does not overshadow the delights of the palate.
SIGNATURE: A playful, inventive menu that can run beyond 20 courses and may include a meringue that tastes like corn on the cob or tapioca-and-ham croquettes. The adventure can cost $500 per guest and has become a bucket-list experience for gourmands.
“Mid-Atlantic cuisine is really wide open. It pulls mostly from Appalachia, the South, and the Chesapeake Bay. Extremely fertile land yields an array of produce, both foraged and farmed, year round.” —Michael Santoro (thewatergatehotel.com)
“We are influenced and inspired by people, places, and food from all over the world. That’s not to say we don’t love our Chesapeake blue crabs and such.” —Aaron Silverman (pineappleandpearls.com)
“Terroir is important in ethnic cooking. Plus Spain is in my DNA. I may use local zucchini from Maryland, but my customers expect jamón ibérico and Manchego cheese.” —José Andrés (minibarbyjoseandres.com)
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RIGHT: GO KATE SHOOT
The Backroom at Kingbird
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AndBeyond Matetsi River Lodge
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THERE’S AN UNOFFICIAL MOTTO in Zimbabwe that says, “Everything that flies has to
land.” The adage seems particularly fitting these days, as the southern African country— which for years has been plagued by political repression, economic hardship, and rampant poaching—is at last making a return to the safari circuit. “We are seeing tourism that we just didn’t see 4 or 5 years ago,” says Henrietta Loyd, founder and co-owner of the UK-based travel company Cazenove + Loyd (cazloyd.com). The influx is due in part to new antipoaching efforts, which have resulted in the return of wildlife and, with it, Zimbabwe’s worldChef Heinz Reitbauer’srenowned safari guides. “There is also more investment coming back to the country,” Loyd Steirereck restaurant says, citing new and renovated lodges as well as infrastructure improvements such as the recently opened international terminal at Victoria Falls Airport. Indeed, one of Africa’s original safari destinations is finally coming in for a landing—and tempting a new generation of travelers to do the same. —LAURIE WERNER JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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Luxe Lodges for Every Safari Style Singita Pamushana • Arguably Zimbabwe’s best safari lodge, this six-suite camp has exclusive access to the 130,000-acre Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve. All of Singita’s strengths are on display here, from the chic accommodations (including a new five-bedroom owner’s estate) to the top-flight cuisine (by Zimbabwe’s talented Shane Ellis) and top-notch guides. singita.com Linkwasha Camp • This Wilderness Safaris outpost brought luxury back to the game-rich Hwange National Park when it reopened in 2015. The camp features nine freestanding canvas-wrapped suites with sliding glass panels and spacious terraces. wilderness-safaris.com AndBeyond Matetsi River Lodge • Reopened in August on a 123,500-acre concession just northwest of Victoria Falls, this camp comprises 18 suites as
Chasing Waterfalls The roar and spray of Victoria Falls can be heard and seen from miles away. The waterfall—known to the local Kalolo-Lozi people as Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “the smoke that thunders”—is the largest curtain of falling water in the world, measuring a mile wide and flowing at a rate of up to 165 million gallons per minute. Four of the waterfall’s five chasms lie within Zimbabwe’s borders (the fifth is in Zambia), and even during the driest months of the year water flows forcefully. For the best views of this natural wonder, Cazenove + Loyd’s Henrietta Loyd recommends chartering the Bushtracks Express (gotothevictoriafalls.com), a steam train that crosses the Victoria Falls Bridge while guests sip sundowners. More adventurous guests can get a bird’s-eye vantage via helicopter or even bungee cord.
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well as two family suites and a villa with circular soaking tubs and private plunge pools. The game viewing here doesn’t match that at Hwange or Malilangwe, but the waterfall experience is one of a kind. andbeyond.com Ruckomechi Camp • Mana Pools National Park, in the heart of the Zambezi Valley, welcomed back this newly renovated Wilderness Safaris lodge last year. Zip in and out of your canvas tent quickly—it just may be surrounded by a herd of elephants. wilderness-safaris.com Little Ruckomechi Camp • A more intimate alternative to Ruckomechi Camp, this four-tent lodge sits on a stretch of the Zambezi River that is frequented by hippopotamuses. Some of the park’s best wildlife sightings can be had from your tent’s private deck. wilderness-safaris.com
Guiding the Way Zimbabwe has long held a reputation for having some of the best safari guides in Africa. Anthony “Ant” Kaschula—founder of Private Guided Safaris (privateguidedsafaris .com)—shares what it takes to reach the country’s top designation of full professional guide. Why are Zimbabwe’s guides so highly regarded? The Parks and Wildlife Management Authority puts candidates through an extremely rigorous selection process. Each year no more than four to five guides qualify for a full professional guide’s license, which enables you to lead walking safaris, the richest type of safari experience there is.
The Cecil Effect
What is the process for becoming a guide? First you serve an apprenticeship under a full professional guide. Then you take a set of written exams based on wildlife habits and habitats, laws pertaining to wildlife and firearms, first aid, and Zimbabwe’s history and culture. Once you pass this examination, you’re granted a learner guide’s license, which permits you to lead game drives and walks under the supervision of a professional guide. Over the next few years, you must also pass a shooting test in which you have to shoot a buffalo or elephant. When the tutor feels that you’re ready, you have a proficiency interview and, if you pass, take a grueling, 5-day exam that tests every aspect of training, from having to shoot a dangerous animal in a simulated self-defense situation to outfitting and hosting a mobile camp in a remote location. The entire process can take 3 to 5 years or longer.
The killing of Cecil—the black-maned lion felled by a U.S. hunter in Hwange National Park in 2015—was the shot heard around the world. Illegal sport hunting, however, represents only a small portion of southern Africa’s poaching problem. The Asian market for rhinoceros horn and elephant ivory poses a greater threat to the region’s big game, a threat the Zimbabwean government has engaged head-on in the post-Cecil era. Recent antipoaching measures have managed to turn the tide in places like Malilangwe, a formerly decimated area that now holds an overpopulation of black and white rhinoceroses, as well as an abundance of elephants, giraffes, lions, and leopards. Hwange National Park is also improving, with approximately 50,000 elephants and a healthy lion population that includes some of Cecil’s descendants.
Have you had any dangerous encounters with wildlife on the job? Fortunately, in my 17 years of conducting walking safaris, I’ve never had to discharge my weapon at a threatening animal. I’ve had my share of close scrapes—with hippos while canoeing on the Zambezi, with lions and elephants on foot—but when you do this day in and day out, you learn to keep your cool.
Singita Pamushana
BOTTOM LEFT: VILLIERS STEYN/GALLO IMAGES/GETT Y IMAGES; BOTTOM RIGHT: PRASIT CHANSAREKORN/ISTOCK; ILLUSTRATION: JOEL KIMMEL
Have Tent, Will Travel Seasoned safari-goers are increasingly complementing their stays in luxury lodges with a night or two on a mobile safari. What the portable lodges lack in creature comforts— no swimming pools, terraces, or soaking tubs here—they make up for in authenticity. “Mobile camps give travelers a real adventure away from the tourist routes in some truly wild regions where privacy and game viewing take priority,” says John Spence, president of the outfitter Scott Dunn USA (scottdunn.com). One of Dunn’s most exciting mobile Zimbabwe experiences is its 3-night Ruwesi Canoe Trail safari in Mana Pools National Park, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site. By day, guests paddle along the Zambezi River past hippopotamuses, elephants, and crocodiles; at night, they settle into a just-pitched camp where chef-prepared dinners are served under acacia trees and a blanket of stars.
JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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Como Contemporary MODERN MILAN came to Lake Como last summer with the
August debut of Il Sereno Lago di Como (ilsereno.com). Designed by the Milan-based Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, the 30-room hotel is a contemporary observatory nestled among the rocks and leaning over the lake’s shores. Inside, colorful furniture, fabrics, and details—much of it designed by Urquiola herself—complement floor-to-ceiling vistas of the water and surrounding mountains. The views can also be enjoyed while sipping Pimm’s on the sleek terrace or taking a dip in the infinityedge pool. Should the modern style prove too anachronistic for Como purists, Urquiola has also helped create a Renaissancestyle alternative at Villa Pliniana (villapliniana.com), Il Sereno’s restored 16th-century estate located just 5 minutes away by Riva speedboat. Adorned with restored frescoes and Venetian floors, the exclusive-use property is old-school Como with just the right amount of modern Milanese style. —SARA MAGRO
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Aaron Basha Boutique 673 Madison Avenue
New York
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R&R in NYC Six new spots to hit the sack in the City That Never Sleeps. The Lowell • The Upper East Side just got cooler thanks to this 74-room hotel’s recent renovation featuring interiors by Michael S. Smith and a restaurant by Charles Masson and Christian Delouvrier. lowellhotel.com The Whitby Hotel • London’s Firmdale Hotels is sure to shake up the Midtown scene when it debuts its second New York property in February. An orangery, a theater, and a library will all be part of the stylish experience. firmdalehotels.com InterContinental New York Barclay • A $180 million renovation has brought this 1926 original some much-needed modern luxury. Don’t miss the throwback Gin Parlour in the lobby. intercontinental nybarclay.com The Marmara Park Avenue • Look closely at this hotel from Turkey’s Marmara Group and you’ll find it’s a New Yorker at heart. Nearly every detail in the NoMad newbie’s lobby—including a nearly 7-ton glass-and-steel birdcage vestibule—is custom made by local designer Joe Ginsberg. park.marmaranyc.com
The Beekman, a Thompson Hotel • Design genius Martin Brudnizki has transformed this 1881 landmark into a leather-bound and utterly vintage retreat. Tom Colicchio’s classic Fowler & Wells and Keith McNally’s French brasserie Augustine are already elevating the Lower Manhattan dining scene. thompsonhotels.com 66
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
Clockwise from top left: 30 Park Place (leftmost tower), the Marmara Park Avenue, and the Beekman.
Red Eye THE NEW Leica M-P Grip by Rolf Sachs (leica .com) isn’t just about looks. Designed in collaboration with its namesake German artist—whose works have included a giant boulder dangling from two red ropes and a pair of lamps made of human hair—the limited-edition camera has a tough and tactile grip rendered in the textured rubber commonly found in table-tennis paddles. On the performance front, the model (priced at $14,950, including a 35 mm lens and accessories) features high-precision focusing and a selective through-the-lens metering system. With just 79 examples produced worldwide, it is collectible art for serious shutterbugs. —JACKIE CARADONIO
30 PARK PL ACE: CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY; THE BEEKMAN: RICHARD BARNES
Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown • A city like Manhattan demands the presence of not one but two Four Seasons hotels. The new Tribeca location, set within Robert A. M. Stern’s 30 Park Place tower, has been an immediate hit for its Yabu Pushelberg interiors and Wolfgang Puck restaurant. fourseasons.com
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Grand Opening
Oahu Oasis OAHU’S KO OLINA has been a resting place for Hawaiian chiefs
and royals since King Kamehameha—the founding father of the Kingdom of Hawaii—made it his preferred retreat in the 18th century. With the opening of the Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina (fourseasons.com) last May, the storied western shoreline is welcoming a new generation of pleasure-seekers. The beachfront property (set on the former site of the JW Marriott Ihilani Ko Olina Resort & Spa) is awash in modern Hawaiian style, with banana-leaf headboards and private lanais in the 371 rooms and suites. Outside their rooms, guests can feast on “loco moco” for breakfast and fresh catches for dinner in the four restaurants, as well as relax at four swimming pools and play golf at the neighboring Ko Olina Golf Club. The most royal of retreats, however, is the 35,000-square-foot Naupaka Spa, which offers Hawaiian-inspired healing therapies in breezy oceanfront treatment huts. —SUSAN B. BARNES
Wild for the Winelands
ANALJIT SINGH first came to Franschhoek
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within an old Cape Dutch guesthouse on Franschhoek’s charming main street, Huguenot Road. The property was just the beginning for Singh, who last year launched Leeu Estates, a 17-room luxury resort featuring a world-class art collection and South Africa’s first Ila spa. The Leeu Collection has also acquired the wine country’s most beloved jewel, the Le Quartier Français hotel and its famed Tasting Room restaurant, which have both been refreshed and
revamped—though mostly unchanged, to the relief of their longstanding clientele. Partnering with the Swartland masters of Syrah, Mullineux, Singh has created the super-winery Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines; next door to Leeu House sits the group’s TukTuk microbrewery. Most recently, the Leeu Collection has opened an homage to Singh’s first home, an Indian restaurant. And up next is an art gallery, set to debut on Huguenot Road next month. —J.C.
TOP: CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY
on a whim. In 2010 the Indian billionaire, who was visiting South Africa as a spectator at the FIFA World Cup, took a side trip to the Cape Winelands—and fell hard and fast for the vineyard-lined town. Seven years later, he has created an assemblage of local hotels, wineries, and more that makes up his Leeu Collection (leeucollection.com). The group’s grand debut came with the 2015 opening of Leeu House, a 12-room hotel set
celebrate vacation env y A dreamy bath under the stars. An evening cocktail overlooking Paradise Valley. From newly updated Spa Suites to mountainside private homes, reimagine the way you get away from it all.
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Personal Best T H E R O B B I N T E RV I E W
Larry Fitzgerald The NFL superstar is turning his off-season passion into a roving venture. LARRY FITZGERALD HAS a flair for racking up big numbers. Throughout his 12-season NFL
career, the nine-time Pro Bowl wide receiver has set more than a few records, including becoming the youngest player ever with 1,000 receptions (at 32 years old). But he is equally proud of a figure he has accomplished off the field: visiting nearly 100 countries. The athlete spends his off-season searching the globe for adventure, from tracking gorillas in Rwanda to ice climbing in Slovenia. Now he is spreading his wanderlust with the creation of a new travel outfitter, Nomad Hill. Robb Report spoke with Fitzgerald in Arizona to discuss his budding business, his favorite moments abroad, and what’s next on his list. —MARGIE GOLDSMITH
When did you first develop a taste for travel? When I was a child, my family traveled a lot domestically, whether it was road trips to Yellowstone or California. But even at home, we would travel with cuisine. It was Vietnamese or sushi or Korean barbecue or Mongolian. It got me thinking a lot about different cultures, and it opened up a little window for me. Just that small glimpse opened my eyes and ultimately inspired my love for travel.
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You describe Nomad Hill as a “travel designer.” What does that mean? We design a trip custom-made for you and your desires, similar to going to a great tailor and asking for a bespoke suit. For instance, if you have a passion for photography or outdoor activities, we design a trip around that
BRUCE YEUNG
How would you describe your personal travel style? I like to travel solo. Going by yourself gets you out of your comfort zone and forces you to meet and interact with the locals. And going alone challenges me because I’m forced to learn a few words so I can communicate with the locals. I don’t really need anything grandiose or too fancy in terms of my accommodations. I’d rather spend the money on being able to do something that I’ll never forget, such as going on a gorilla trek in Rwanda. I’d much rather spend the money on something that’s really, really cool.
Tell us about Nomad Hill. How did your passion become a business? I met David Jones many years ago when he was vice president of [the luxury outfitter] Ker & Downey. I started traveling with him and found that we have many similarities, especially in terms of our enthusiasm for travel and new experiences. We were traveling to the Siwa Oasis in Egypt, and we talked about working together. Two years later we started Nomad Hill, which launched last June. The Nomad name resonated with us and also with my age group, Millennials. Those are the people we’re trying to attract, because they want to get out and experience the world before they settle down. Nomad Hill gives them more opportunities to explore their passion for travel.
Personal Best Larry Fitzgerald
to go 3 years ago with my buddy [Russian basketball player] Andrei Kirilenko. I was able to have a private meal with a former KGB agent and grilled him with questions about espionage. It was one of the most fascinating experiences I’ve ever had. It is a dream of mine to go back during the summertime for an in-depth tour of the Kremlin.
“WHEN I TRAVEL, THAT EXPERIENCE WILL LAST ME A LIFETIME. TRAVEL IS THE ONLY THING YOU CAN BUY THAT MAKES YOU RICHER.”
Fitzgerald, shown here with villagers in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, says he prefers to travel solo.
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interest. We’ll design skiing experiences in the Swiss Alps, safaris in Africa or India, swimming with the whale sharks in Perth, seeing the penguins up close in Antarctica, polar-bearexperiencesinGreenland— you name it. Every one of our experiences is custom-made. Our trips are designed for a traveler who has an understanding and a vision of what they want to do and what they want to experience. We turn that into reality. I’m the type of person who does their research. In the past, when I wanted to go somewhere, I did a background study before I took my ideas to David. That’s the kind of traveler we’re looking for—someone who wants the best of the best.
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You sound like a very hands-on partner. I don’t feel comfortable if I’m not in the know. I want to see the spreadsheets, the budgets, and everything that is going to make the business go. I see this like an NFL team. If you’re in the marketing department or the sales department, you have to do your job to the best of your ability to make it all happen. That’s part of being a team. If everybody on the team has their head in the pile, then you’re going to have some success. Do you encourage your NFL teammates to travel? Yes, because if you buy a new car or watch, after a couple of days the newness and excitement wears off and you’re chasing your next high. When I travel, that experience will last me a lifetime. Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer. You’ve traveled to 96 countries so far. What’s been one of your favorite trips? I was infatuated with World War II and the dynamics of Stalin and Lenin, and I always had a love for Russian culture. I finally got a chance
Your most memorable travel moment? Seeing the Great Wall of China. It is an engineering feat and just a mindblowing place. But I didn’t go to the typical tourist spots in Beijing. Instead, I drove about 2.5 hours out and saw it just as the sun was rising. We walked miles and miles on the wall—just my tour guide and myself. It was one of those moments where you marvel at human ingenuity. How were they able to do that with limited resources, especially compared with all the technology we have now? The pyramids of Giza are another one. Every time I see them I’m dumbfounded by how massive they are. How could people erect something like that 4,000 years ago? Do your trips involve charities or charitable work? When I travel, I always incorporate a portion of my trip to charity no matter what—whether I’m visiting an orphanage in Vietnam or planting crops in Ethiopia. That comes from my mother, who was huge in terms of philanthropic work, and it was ingrained in me at a very young age. No matter where I am, if I see kids who are hungry or people who don’t have clothes, I’m going to do what I can to make sure they are not suffering. That’s how I’m wired. What’s next on your travel list? Cuba, North Korea, Venezuela. I want to go to Saudi Arabia, and I want to see the Maldives before the ocean rises too high. I haven’t been to Greece or any of the Scandinavian countries or Greenland. I still have a lot of places on my bucket list.
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THE TOP 21 TRIPS FOR 2017.
From an around-the-world culinary crusade to a Maldivian surfing safari, Robb Report presents the most exciting jaunts, journeys, and adventures for the year ahead.
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River to Rails in Peru. 1
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TOP: BRUCE WALLIN
FOR ITS MIX of ancient and contemporary culture, Andean and Amazonian adventure, Peru has been a popular pick on top-destination lists for the better part of a decade. This year, however, the South American country is simply not to be missed, with new luxury options that are making it easier than ever to explore its varied riches—by river, by rail, and by trail. Make the mighty Amazon your starting point, with a 4-night cruise aboard Aqua Expeditions’ newly refurbished Aria Amazon (aquaexpeditions.com). The 16-suite vessel ventures along the legendary river and its blackwater tributaries, with two-per-day skiff excursions to spot wildlife—pink dolphins, piranhas, anacondas, macaws—visit villages, and, for more adventurous guests, maybe even stop for a swim.
Making Room in Malibu. 2
THE 22-MILE SQUIGGLE of Southern California coastline that is Malibu receives 15 million tourists annually—despite having a total of only four small hotels. For 2017, however, new offerings along the NEW LUXURY beaches and in the wild hillsides are making the city OPTIONS ARE more accommodating to overnight guests, without sacMAKING IT EASIER THAN rificing any of its storied exclusivity. EVER TO Scheduled to open early this year, Nobu Ryokan (nobu EXPLORE hotels.com) is an 18-room Japanese-style inn from the PERU’S VARIED Nobu Hotels group. The beachfront retreat—set next to RICHES—BY RIVER, BY RAIL, Malibu’s wildly popular Nobu restaurant—channels its AND BY TRAIL. ryokan lineage with custom teak soaking tubs surrounded by sea pebbles in the accommodations, no two of which are alike. To keep up with its Carbon Beach neighbor, the 47-room Malibu Beach Inn (malibubeachinn.com), by far the largest of the city’s four existing hotels, commissioned Waldo Fernandez for an art-filled redesign that was completed last year and included an expansion of the hotel’s restaurant. (The property is planning to develop new villas nearby.) Also on Carbon, the so-called Billionaire’s Beach, London’s Soho House group has From bottom left: opened Little Beach House Malibu (littlebeachhouse Aqua Expeditions’ malibu.com), a private club where even current Soho Aria Amazon; House members need to apply for privileges. the Sacred Valley; In the Malibu mountains, wellness retreats offer a Little Beach counterpoint to the beach’s sybaritic escapes. Newcomers House Malibu. include the intense XPT (xptlife.com), a $5,000, 3-day Page 75: Japan’s Hoshinoya Fuji training program created by husband-and-wife athletes resort. Laird Hamilton and Gabrielle Reece and conducted at their home. The serene Ranch Malibu (theranchmalibu .com), in a remote canyon at the northern end of the city, offers private cabins, acclaimed vegan cuisine, and relentless boot-camp regimens. —MICHALENE BUSICO No.
When it’s time to head for higher ground, the newfor-2017 Belmond Andean Explorer (belmond.com) promises a luxurious link to Peru’s most popular mountain destinations. The 68-passenger sleeper train, which is scheduled to launch in May, will travel from Arequipa in the south to the high-altitude Lake Titicaca in the east to the ancient capital of Cusco, pampering guests along the way with alpaca blankets in the cabins and pisco sours on the observation car’s open-air deck. After disembarking in Cusco, continue your adventure at Explora Valle Sagrado (explora.com), a 50-room lodge that opened in July near the Sacred Valley’s Urubamba River. Explora’s first lodge outside of Chile, the Valle Sagrado offers off-the-beaten-trail treks in the surrounding Andes peaks, as well as day trips to the must-see Machu Picchu and lesser-known Incan sites. —BRUCE WALLIN
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Cuba from Sand to City. 3
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THIS IS A golden moment in Cuban history— one in which the thaw has begun, but the longisolated country has yet to be forever changed. Seeing it all now is imperative. And though a stampede of hotel chains is waiting in the wings to make a mad rush at development, there is only one surefire way to see the entire country in high luxury right now: Hop aboard the superyacht St. David (stdavidyacht.co.uk; available through Cuba Educational Travel, cubaeducationaltravel .com) for a 7-night itinerary from Havana to Cayo Santa Maria and back. The journey—which is bookended by two vibrant nights in the capital city, where passengers can soak in the local flavor at landmarks like the historic Hotel Saratoga—will drop anchor among unspoiled mangroves and coral reefs from Bahía de Cabañas to Cayo Jutías. While at sea or in port, St. David offers plenty of diversions with six staterooms, three decks, an outdoor cinema, a water-sports center, and a clubby lounge where the Cuba libres and mojitos will no doubt flow well into the wee hours. —JACKIE CARADONIO
OPPOSITE: JACKIE CARADONIO
On Safari in Zimbabwe. 4
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See “Passport,” page 61.
Foodie Frenzy in Melbourne. 5
No.
MELBOURNE ALREADY HAS one of the most exciting food-and-wine scenes in the world, but for a week in April, it will become the center of the culinary universe. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards (theworlds50best.com) will bring the most prominent chefs from around the globe to the Australian city for the 2017 ceremony—and the public is invited to join in the festivities. The main awards presentation will be held at the Royal Exhibition Building on April 5. Events open to the public include panels featuring chefs Massimo Bottura of the current No. 1 restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, and Daniel Humm of the No. 3 restaurant Eleven Madison Park in New York. VIP tickets will be available for some of the week’s activities, with opportunities for one-on-one time with chefs and revelry at post-awards receptions. The awards festivities will coincide with the 10-day Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (melbournefoodandwine.com.au), which draws more than 250,000 people for tastings, gastronomic spectacles such as the World’s Longest Lunch (a single table down Lygon Street in Melbourne’s Little Italy for 1,600 diners), and master classes with 50 Best luminaries David Thompson and Gastón Acurio. For the full immersion, stay at the official 50 Best lodging, the new QT Melbourne (qthotelsandresorts.com), where amenities include a restaurant from former Rockpool chef Paul Easson and a shop selling handmade Japanese knives. —M.B.
FOR A WEEK IN APRIL, MELBOURNE WILL BECOME THE CENTER OF THE CULINARY UNIVERSE.
Opposite: Havana’s Hotel Saratoga. Above: Whipped emu egg at Melbourne’s Attica, the current No. 33 restaurant in the world.
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Sprucing Up Santorini. 6
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RETREATS ON THE GREEK ISLE ARE GIVING NEW LIFE TO THE CALDERA-TOP EXPERIENCE.
Above: The newly renovated Grace Santorini.
in October on 2 acres high above the sea. The all-inclusive villa, which sleeps 14 guests in four suites, promises pampering and privacy at every turn with a wine cellar, a personal chef, a yoga pavilion, a spa, an outdoor cinema, an infinity-edge pool, and excursions that include sailing and archaeological tours. —KATHRYN ROMEYN
Come Back to the Cayman Islands. 7
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See “Paradise Restored,” page 96.
SERGE DETALLE
SCATTERED ABOVE THE lapis-lazuli waters of the Aegean Sea, Santorini’s whitewashed resorts are an almost clichéd picture of paradise. But it appears even paradise can be improved upon, as several new and recently renovated retreats on the fabled Greek isle are giving new life to the caldera-top experience. Travelers returning to the 21-room Grace Santorini (gracehotels.com) this season will find the hideaway immaculately restyled, with contemporary interiors punctuated by Greek Statuario marble and punches of purple and baby blue. The resort is also set to debut an extensive spa and wellness facility and two sprawling suites with private plunge pools and terraces. Nearby, the new Cavo Tagoo Hotel Santorini (cavotagoo.com) is bringing a trendy vibe to local barefoot luxury with 13 breezy suites adorned with minimalist furnishings, a sweeping pool deck with floating daybeds, and a sleek Ibiza-inspired lounge overlooking the caldera. Perhaps most alluring this season is the island’s new Erosantorini (erosantorini.com), an exclusive-use estate that opened
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Moving On Up in Lower Manhattan. LOWER MANHATTAN HAS traditionally been a spot for suits and tourists (and tourist traps) but lately, going downtown—way downtown— has a new air of cool. The all-the-way-south neighborhood stretching from Chambers Street to the bottom of the island has found itself in the midst of a microRenaissance, becoming an of-the-moment district where celebrity chefs, luxury hotels, and world-class architects are elevating the scene. First came the social-media catnip of architect Santiago Calatrava’s awe-inspiring Oculus (panynj.gov), a sculptural shopping center featuring high-end shops like Salavatore Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Tom Ford. Next it was interior designer Martin Brudnizki’s turn to add some edge to the buttoned-up neighborhood, revamping Beekman Street’s historic Temple 82
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LOWER MANHATTAN HAS FOUND ITSELF IN THE MIDST OF A MICRORENAISSANCE.
Court building into the Beekman, a Thompson Hotel (thompsonhotels.com). Opened in September, the property was an instant hit, both for its velvet-andcrystal décor and its restaurants by Tom Colicchio and Keith McNally. Just opposite City Hall Park is Lower Manhattan’s latest reason to look up and check in: Robert A. M. Stern’s 82-story 30 Park Place (thirtyparkplace.com), which opened in September, houses a collection of over-the-top condominiums and the slick 189-room Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown (fourseasons.com). The latter, Manhattan’s second Four Seasons–branded property, brings with it an outpost of Wolfgang Puck’s steak house Cut with a sultry scarlet lounge where stylish New Yorkers—and yes, suits and tourists—mingle every night of the week. —J.C.
CHRISTIAN HORAN; OPPOSITE, TOP: JAIDEEP OBEROI; BOTTOM: JACKIE CARADONIO
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Around-the-World Food Flight. 9
No.
GASTRONOMES, GET READY: This May, TCS World Travel is sending 52 wayfaring foodies on the trip of a lifetime. Designed in collaboration with René Redzepi—the chef of Copenhagen’s Noma restaurant and founding father of New Nordic cuisine—the 19-day Aroundthe-World Culinary Journey (tcsworldtravel.com) begins with 3 days in Seoul before carrying on to eight more palatepleasing destinations across Europe and Asia. The itinerary for the trip (priced from $135,000 per person) features far more than just memorable meals. In Tokyo, travelers can take a sushi-making class with a local master and forage the countryside with chef Shinobu Namae of the Michelinstarred L’Effervescence. A stop in Florence offers lessons with a fifth-generation Tuscan butcher; in Paris, it’s a Champagne-and-oyster-fueled cruise across the Seine; and in Copenhagen, Redzepi will give travelers behind-thescenes access to his legendary kitchen. Throughout the journey, passengers will travel aboard TCS’s private 52-seat Boeing 757 and stay in Four Seasons hotels and resorts. —SANDRA RAMANI
From Savanna to Sea in Tanzania. 10
No.
THE SAFARI/BEACH combo has hit a new high in Tanzania. The East African country—lauded both for its wildlife conservancies and for its Indian Ocean islands—has new luxury options on both fronts. Asilia upped the safari game in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area with the opening of Highlands (asiliaafrica.com; available through Scott Dunn, scottdunn.com), an eighttent camp set on the slopes of the extinct Olmoti volcano. The lodge’s Plexiglas domes are a brilliant departure from traditional safari accommodations, maximizing views of the crater below and the starry night skies above. Asilia’s excursions are also a break from the norm: In addition to the usual Ngorongoro game drives, the camp offers hikes to other craters, far removed from the tourist buzz. Shortly after Asilia’s launch, the eight-bedroom Entamanu Ngorongoro (nomad-tanzania.com) made its debut on a secluded perch along Ngorongoro’s rim, giving luxuryseekers another chance to spy wildlife from on high. Meanwhile, post-safari respite can be found at the new Thanda Island (thandaisland.com), a 20-acre exclusive-use retreat within the Shunyimbili Island Marine Reserve. —J.C.
Opposite: Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown. This page, from top: Mumbai, one of nine cities on the Around-theWorld Culinary Journey; Asilia’s Highlands safari lodge in Tanzania.
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Quiet Time in the Yucatán. 11
THE MEGARESORTS OF Mexico’s Riviera Maya are making way for more intimate options up and down the region’s sparkling Caribbean coastline. Hotel Esencia (hotelesencia.com) underwent an inspired renovation after its acquisition by the American art collector Kevin Wendle, emerging with 29 art- and lightfilled rooms located along what is arguably the area’s best beach. The update included the addition of two villas that have their own private stretches of sand and can together accommodate groups from eight to 22 people. New villas are also taking shape at Rosewood Mayakoba (rosewood hotels.com), which in November added eight multibedroom residences—ranging from 8,000 to 20,000 square feet—to its collection of 130 lagoon and oceanfront suites. Just next door, Andaz Mayakoba (andaz.hyatt .com) was scheduled at press time for an end-of-2016 debut. The 214-room resort, which is set on 590 acres of beach and jungle, includes 41 suites with plunge pools. Those in need of a break after all that beach and pool time can head inland to the new Chablé (chableresort .com), a 40-villa, 750-acre destination spa where “shamanism meets luxury” in the jungle outside Mérida. —B.W. No.
Right: Crystal Esprit takes passengers to the Eden-like beaches of the Seychelles islands. Below, from top: Andaz Mayakoba; Hotel Esencia.
Setting Sail in the Seychelles. 12
THERE’S A NEW WAY to experience the Seychelles islands—and it’s 65 feet underwater. Seated in a U-Boat C Explorer 3, travelers can venture below the Indian Ocean’s surface, scuttling alongside neon fusiliers and black-and-white-striped sergeant majors. The flying-saucer-like submersible darts in and out of coral clusters and speeds past streaks of pink, blue, and green before returning to the mothership: Crystal Cruises’ new Crystal Esprit (crystalcruises.com). Long a leader in luxury ocean cruising, Crystal ushered in a new era with last winter’s launch of the Esprit. The yacht is part of an ambitious plan that calls for everything from riverboats in Europe to a private jet for aroundthe-world journeys. The 31-suite Esprit—which will spend January through March island-hopping in the No.
TOP: JACKIE CARADONIO
Seychelles—embodies Crystal’s new direction, offering an experience more akin to that of a charter yacht than an all-inclusive ocean liner. There is Château Lafite Rothschild in the wine cellar, butler service for every spacious stateroom, and, of course, plenty of high-tech water toys like the U-Boat submersible at the ready. A staff of 91 takes care of a total of just 62 guests, facilitating everything from outings on the yacht’s cherry-red Wider 32 tender to Champagne-and-caviar lunches. That Esprit is setting sail in the Seychelles—a 115-island nation located some 1,000 miles off the east coast of Africa—is a by-product of not only Crystal’s new focus but also the yacht’s nimble size. The country’s isolated setting in the middle of the Indian Ocean makes it a rare stop on any cruise itinerary, and its small coves and lack
of ports render its islands mostly inaccessible to larger ships. But the seascape is no hindrance to the Esprit, whose 9.8-foot draft allows it to anchor in the shallow waters off even the smallest isles. The lithe vessel is never long at sea on a typical itinerary, zipping from isle to isle. On the island of Curieuse, passengers can plant trees as part of Crystal’s reforestation project. On the private nature reserve of Aride Island, they can climb to a high granite peak while dozens of frigate birds circle overhead. And off of Big Sister Island, they can snorkel along an expansive reef alive with parrot fish, blueand-yellow surgeonfish, and striped clown tangs. Of course, the most compelling view of this underwater world is from the passenger seat of the U-Boat C Explorer 3—a vantage reserved exclusively for Esprit guests. —LAURIE KAHLE
CRYSTAL USHERED IN A NEW ERA WITH LAST WINTER’S LAUNCH OF THE ESPRIT.
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The Centennial in Helsinki. 13
No.
FINLAND IS CELEBRATING a century of independence this year with everything from symphonies and contemporary-art exhibits to mobile saunas and massive snow castles. But the real reason to head to the easternmost Scandinavian country in 2017
THE FINNISH CAPITAL HAS QUIETLY HAD A CULINARY AWAKENING IN RECENT YEARS.
is the food. Long overshadowed by the New Nordic heavyweights of Copenhagen and Stockholm, the Finnish capital of Helsinki has quietly had its own culinary awakening in recent years. Established restaurants like Chef & Sommelier (chefetsommelier.fi) and Ask (restaurant ask.com) are starting to gain international recognition (and Michelin stars), while new spots such as Finnjävel (finnjavel.fi) are bringing innovation to the Nordic scene. Opened last spring in a high-design setting, Finnjävel features the experimental dishes—liver casserole with lingonberries, hay-smoked perch—of co-chefs Tommi Tuominen and Henri Alén. Across town, on the southern tip of the Helsinki peninsula, diners are flocking to Löyly (loylyhelsinki.fi), where reindeer meatballs, seafood bakes, and other local dishes pair with a truly Finnish amenity: The restaurant is located within a bold new architectural landmark that houses three saunas and wooden decks overlooking the Gulf of Finland. Promising to be the next culinary hot spot in Helsinki, chef Filip Langhoff’s Jord (restaurantjord.fi) was scheduled at press time to open in December as the bistro-style “little sister” to Ask. A highly anticipated sibling is also in the works on the hotel front: Opening this summer, the St. George (stgeorgehelsinki.com) is a 150-room property from the owners of Hotel Kämp (hotelkamp .com), Helsinki’s most opulent address. —KENNETH NARS
Into the Wilds of Japan. 14
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TOP: TEEMU BOMAN
Top: The innovative cuisine at Finnjävel. Above: Japan’s Amanemu resort.
TOKYO IS FAMOUS for its futuristic cityscape, but travel just beyond the Japanese capital and you’ll find snowcapped mountains and volcanoes, bamboo forests, sparkling lakes, and ria coastlines that stretch for miles. Travelers now have new reasons to heed the call of Japan’s wild, including the recent debut of the country’s first luxury-camping resort, Hoshinoya Fuji (hoshinoyafuji.com). Nestled among the red-cedar forests at the foot of Mt. Fuji, the property offers an upscale outdoors experience with open-air balconies, personal chefs, and guided excursions like canoeing trips on Lake Kawaguchi and hikes through the mysterious forests of Aokigahara. Last March, in the verdant mountains of Ise-Shima National Park, Aman debuted its version of wilderness luxury with a 24-suite hot-springs resort overlooking Ago Bay. Guests of Amanemu (amanemu .com) can explore the reserve’s rocky coastlines with treks along the UNESCO World Heritage–designated Kumano Kodo trails. Offering further incentive to discover the country’s hidden corners is GeoEx’s (geoex .com) customizable Japan Tip-to-Toe trip, which explores the Kamikochi Valley, the Japanese Alps, and the 436-foottall Nachi Falls. —IRENE RAWLINGS
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TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Abu Dhabi’s New State of Art. 15
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ABU DHABI IS GOING FOR BROKE IN BUILDING A CACHE OF NEW MUSEUMS AND PERFORMINGARTS CENTERS . Above: Zayed National Museum.
Joining the outpost of Paris’s beloved institution on Saadiyat will be Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, Norman Foster’s Zayed National Museum, and the late Zaha Hadid’s Performing Arts Centre. Works from the Guggenheim’s permanent collection are already on exhibit at the nearby Manarat Al Saadiyat cultural center. The high-minded initiative appears to be catching, with luxury hotels like the Rosewood Abu Dhabi (rose wood.com) and Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island (fourseasons.com) investing heavily in private collections of their own. The latter property, which opened in October, displays more than 2,000 works ranging from pop art to paintings of Abu Dhabi’s foreverin-flux skyline. —JILL K. ROBINSON
RICHARD DAVIES
ABU DHABI HAS been hard at work refining its image. Amid the dizzying array of glitz and glamour in the city, an unprecedented art scene is emerging as part of a master plan to make it a world capital of culture. In true Emirati fashion, Abu Dhabi is going for broke in building a cache of new museums and performing-arts centers. Central to the plan is Saadiyat Island (saadiyat culturaldistrict.ae), an estimated $27 billion isle that will soon be home to the Louvre Abu Dhabi (louvreabudhabi .ae). The Jean Nouvel–designed masterpiece, scheduled to debut this year, will showcase a collection of more than 300 works ranging from a 16th-century sculpture of a wounded Christ to Picasso’s rarely exhibited Portrait of a Lady, beneath a spaceship-like dome of woven steel.
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TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Uruguay for Asado and Tannat. 16
No.
THE LAND OF Tannat may finally be having its moment. Like Chile and Argentina before it, Uruguay has gradually emerged as a first-rate foodand-wine destination, a process that peaked last March with the debut of Bodega Garzón (bodegagarzon.com). Owned by the Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, the high-tech winery takes Uruguay’s little-known varietals, chief among them the national grape of Tannat, to new levels. The $100 million project, which includes a restaurant by fellow Argentine Francis Mallmann, is located in rural Garzón, roughly 30 miles north of the coastal resort of José Ignacio. It is garnering attention as much for its estate-grown wines and olive oils as for its exclusive wine club, which, for a $180,000 90
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
BODEGA GARZÓN IS TAKING URUGUAY’S LITTLEKNOWN VARIETALS TO NEW LEVELS .
fee, allows members to blend their own vintages. Mallmann is no stranger to these parts, having opened his own restaurant and hotel just 7 miles away in 2004. Last year, the chef renovated his estancia-style Hotel Garzón (restaurantegarzon.com), offering diners who make the pilgrimage for his spectacular asado cuisine a comfortable place to spend the night. Farther north, in the town of Salto, the Swiss hotelier Peter Wirth (whose résumé includes New York City’s Waldorf Astoria Towers and Rome’s Hotel Hassler) opened Casa Wirth (casa wirth.com) in July. The colonial mansion on the banks of the Uruguay River is home to just five guest rooms and an outdoor restaurant specializing in asados. —NELL MCSHANE WULFHART
An Elevated Adventure in Utah. 17
No.
THE REMOTE CRAGGY cliffs and sandstone narrows of Utah’s national parks have traditionally been the domain of experienced backpackers. This year, however, weekend warriors can access even the most isolated stretches of red-rock terrain with the St. Regis Deer Valley’s (stregisdeervalley.com) outdoor exploration series. Created with the Utah-based Elevated Adventure Company (elevatedadventurecompany.com), the bespoke trips take resort guests from Park City via private jet to geological treasures like the sprawling Canyonlands National Park, the majestic Arches National Park, and the Great Basin for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and more. A Canyonlands adventure might include scrambling over outcroppings crammed with loose rocks, wriggling through keyhole-like tunnels, and rappelling down cliffs—all in a single venturesome day. St. Regis guests can also cycle through the prehistoric formations of Moab and, for a true backpacker experience, overnight in the Great Basin. Of course, every weekend warrior will eventually finish the journey in comfort at the resort, which features a Remède Spa and JeanGeorges Vongerichten restaurant. —CAROLYN MEERS
Chasing Waves in the Maldives.
Above: Canyoneering in Utah. Below: Four Seasons Maldives Private Island at Voavah, Baa Atoll. Opposite: Bodega Garzón.
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TOP: ANDREW MUSE
No.
THE MALDIVES IS legendary among wave hunters. Shaped like a string of pearls, the long chain of islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean meanders through some of the world’s best—and most difficult to access—surf breaks. Promising an over-the-top tour through this surfer’s paradise is the brand-new Four Seasons Maldives Private Island at Voavah, Baa Atoll (fourseasons.com). Opened in December, the 5-acre resort—an exclusive-use property with just seven villas and suites—has partnered with the Aussie outfitter Tropicsurf to curate an epic surfing safari. Traveling aboard the Four Seasons’ 62-foot Horizon yacht, participants can paddle out at Jails, Cokes, and other secret breaks with one of Voavah’s equally famous coaches, who include former world champion Sunny Garcia. Fournight surfing packages are priced from $280,000 for as many as 20 guests and include a total takeover—PADI dive center and all—of Voavah. —J.C. JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Class of the Caribbean. 19
No.
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CANOUAN IS POISED TO BECOME ONE OF THE CARIBBEAN’S ELITE ISLES. Above: The pool at Canouan Estate’s Beach House.
Estate Villas & Residences (canouan-estate.com), a luxury community covering two-thirds of the 3-squaremile island and featuring a Jim Fazio–designed golf course, four restaurants, and a clutch of villas available for rent. Ensuring that jet-setters arrive in style is a newly expanded 5,900-foot-long runway that can accommodate private aircraft as large as a Boeing 737. For those wishing to make their Canouan arrival via yacht, an 80-berth marina is set to debut later this year. —SARAH GREAVES-GABBADON
L ARSEN COLLINGE
IF THE CELEBRITY playground of Mustique isn’t exclusive enough for you, it’s time to try Canouan. The Caribbean upstart, located roughly 17 miles southwest of Mustique in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, is poised to replace its better-known neighbor as the country’s elite isle. In October, the long-awaited Pink Sands Club (pinksandsclub.com) debuted on Godahl Beach with 32 over-the-top suites and villas. The rose-hued resort sits at the heart of the island’s recently launched Canouan
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TOP21 TRIPS FOR 2017
Wet and Wild in Nepal. 20
No.
LITTLE APPEARS TO have changed in Nepal’s Terai lowlands over the last century. Roughhewn dirt roads wind in and out of lush thickets of jungle, passing through tiny Tharu villages clustered with shaggy grass-topped huts. Locals—women dressed in colorful skirts and men wearing woven hats—drift up and down the Rapti River, bathing, washing clothes, and gathering reeds for trade. And deep within the golden grasslands of the Chitwan National Park, Bengal tigers, greater onehorned rhinoceroses, and elephants still roam. Just opposite the park, however, change has come in the form of the region’s first luxury safari lodge, Meghauli Serai (tajhotels.com). Opened last April, the Taj Safaris property might have seemed out of place in the long-enduring landscape if it weren’t so carefully conceived: Sixteen thatch-roofed villas outfitted with Tharu artifacts and hand-painted murals nestle almost imperceptibly in the grassland. Creature comforts include a Jiva spa offering ayurvedic treatments and an infinity-edge pool that appears to pour straight into the Rapti. Still, the true luxury of Meghauli Serai is its total immersion, from early-morning tiger treks and rhino safaris to evening canoe rides alongside wild gharials and swamp francolins. Afternoons can be spent riverside with the locals; one in particular—the lodge’s resident elephant, Anjali— might even join you for a swim. —J.C.
Zurich’s New Cool.
Top: Taj Safaris’ Meghauli Serai. Above: Saltz at the Dolder Grand.
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THE SWISS CITY KNOWN FOR FINANCE IS LOOSENING ITS TIE.
of Switzerland’s most important postwar modernist buildings. The Los Angeles–based firm Hirsch Bedner Associates adorned the interiors of the Y-shaped structure with furnishings by Patricia Urquiola, Armani/ Casa, and Brabbu; outside, a swimming pool at the foot of the Üetliberg mountain offers a laidback spot for a swim. Zurich’s legendary Dolder Grand has also joined the movement with the debut of its Saltz restaurant (thedoldergrand.com), a vibrant red-and-blue venue designed by the artist Rolf Sachs. And bringing a modern edge to Old Town is the Marktgasse Hotel (marktgasse hotel.ch), a 39-room boutique property blending Scandinavian minimalism and Italian maximalism in a pair of 15th-century structures. —J.C.
TOP: JACKIE CARADONIO
ZURICH, THE SWISS city known for finance and buttoned-up formality, is loosening its tie and showing its edgy side. Leading the way in the city’s cooldown are new and established hotels that are breaking with stuffy traditions. Among the unorthodox newcomers is Kameha Grand Zürich (kamehagrand zuerich.com), an Autograph Collection hotel that opened in 2015 in the emerging Glattpark district. Conceived by the design world’s enfant terrible, Marcel Wanders, the hotel is a veritable wonderland of avant-garde style, featuring cheeky nods to Swiss culture such as lamps that resemble oversize cow bells and sofas shaped like giant Toblerone bars. Last spring, the 95-room Atlantis by Giardino (atlantisbygiardino.ch) made its debut in one
MONTRES 1 ( ZZZ GHZ
Paradise RESTORED The CAYMAN ISLANDS, long known primarily as a tax haven, are emerging as the latest laidback but luxurious escape thanks to a new wave of development that, more than a decade after Hurricane Ivan, includes extraordinary and distinct resorts.
BY BRETT ANDERSON
W
ITHIN THE WALLS of the garden, nature quietly reigns. Beyond the coiled roots of trees and tangled greenery, falling water is audible, and only the most attentive ear can discern the presence of an occasional passing automobile. Despite its primordial air, this oasis has been expensively cultivated for the pleasure of its owners, who, when in residence, occupy a villa concealed in the distance behind battalions of blossoms and imposing examples of a curious form of flora known as a sausage tree, from which depend heavy, tubular, dun-colored fruit. “They stink when you cut them open,” notes the gardener. Adorned in a straw hat and Hawaiian shirt, this gentleman conducts me along the winding paths of this private paradise. When I ask him if it’s a native plant, he laughs. “It’s from Africa,” he replies. “I guess the hippos like them.” Nothing, I have learned since my arrival in the Cayman Islands, seems to be from here. Uninhabited until the 17th century, when motley assortments of passengers from military, merchant, and mercenary vessels alike began to ➜
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Paradise Restored
This page and previous spread: The Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman.
visit their shores, these minute landmasses were not properly settled until the early 1700s. Over time, the population of primarily African and Anglo-Saxon descent gradually expanded to include dozens of different nationalities. When I landed on Grand Cayman several days before, I didn’t know what to expect of my inaugural visit to this British territory famed as a tax haven and bastion of international banking. Beautiful beaches, yes, but what else? On departing the airport, however, I was greeted by something entirely unexpected: a sense of
THE LANDMARK LANGEVIN indicated was the site of my afternoon appointment. Situated several miles north of the Ritz-Carlton, this is the first new luxury property to appear on the island in more than a decade—and the 98
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THIS PAGE AND PREVIOUS SPREAD: DON RIDDLE
familiarity. The streets of George Town could have belonged to a South Florida suburb, save for the fact that the drivers sat on their vehicles’ right-hand sides. Having been buffeted in flight by the winds of Hurricane Matthew, which then roared toward the United States, I was surprised by the normalcy of the scene. “We have been lucky since Ivan,” said Marc Langevin, who greeted me at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. A Frenchman by birth, Langevin serves as general manager of the first true luxury resort on Seven Mile Beach, the island’s most popular strip of coastline. We talked of the devastating 2004 hurricane while he escorted me to my accommodations, the 8,000-square-foot Grand Cayman Penthouse. It is a three-bedroom rooftop complex that includes a screening room, a chef’s kitchen, and a breathtaking wraparound terrace with a 180-degree vista of blindingly blue water. He described to me the impact of the storm, which had been the worst to hit the islands in more than eight decades. Though Ivan flattened or flooded most of the community’s buildings, its force was creative as well as destructive. As we stepped onto the terrace, he gestured up the beach toward a sleek, modern complex that rose in the distance above the turquoise surf. “None of this,” he said, “was here before.”
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DON RIDDLE
The Presidential Suite (top) and spa (above) at the Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa.
first of two quite distinct retreats I intended to explore. The Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa represents an architectural departure for Grand Cayman but also stands as the vanguard of a new wave of upscale development transforming this destination into an epicenter of laidback luxury (see “Island Renewal,” page 104). In the lobby I was surrounded by the sea, which sparkled in all directions like an art installation. Walls of glass allowed the scenery to provide the primary decoration, while handwoven rope accents and a blue catboat—a traditional Caymanian fishing vessel—suspended from
the ceiling of the library alluded to the island’s history. I ascended to yet another penthouse, the Presidential Suite. Here, immense floor-to-ceiling windows opened to a terrace, where the sapphire water created the illusion of being aboard an ocean liner. Offered a gin and tonic, I chatted with Jackie Doak—president of Dart Real Estate, the developer of the property—and a contingent of talented people who contributed to the project. Doak explained to me the scope of the undertaking. “There was an existing hotel here. Initially, we were going to build on that foundation, but it sat behind the coastal road,” she said, indicating a rather forlorn-looking stretch of pavement that emerged as if from nowhere beyond the lush grounds of the Seafire. “But because the road was so close to the beach, all the amenities would be behind the hotel, so we decided to demolish the existing structure.” The decision was a costly one but, in the end, worthwhile. The developers diverted the coastal road to the other side of the property, creating a footpath along the beachfront. This unfettered access played into architect Scott Lee’s vision for the design. “If you go to any hotel in the Cayman Islands, the arrival experience is at sea level,” he told me. “So where you walk in, you really can’t see anything. Our idea was to elevate reception from zero to 24 feet above sea level. You get this commanding view not only of our property but down to the whitewater and off to the horizon. We wanted a modern expression of the Caribbean.” Lee and his associates rendered a series of spaces
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Above: Le Soleil d’Or—a farm with a boutique resort and spa—sits on a rustic beachfront. Right: Some of the inhabitants of Grand Cayman’s Starfish Point.
GRAND CAYMAN’S SISTER islands, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, attract more diving enthusiasts than seekers of well-appointed accommodations. However, a recently established boutique resort on the latter persuaded me to 102
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leave behind the comforts of the Ritz-Carlton and Kimpton Seafire to immerse myself in a different ambience. Cayman Brac’s massive limestone bluff, which rises 140-plus feet above sea level, lends the island the appearance of a floating fortress—a characteristic that, along with its caves and springs, made it a favorite rest stop for pirates, who quenched their thirst with fresh water and feasted on turtles and iguanas. I, too, was there for food and drink, though of a considerably more refined caliber. Le Soleil d’Or, situated on a rustic beachfront, offers guests the absolute privacy enjoyed by castaways but without the deprivations. Essentially a farm with a boutique resort and spa attached, this relaxing destination specializes in farmto-table cuisine of exceptional quality. On arriving at reception, I noted the property’s un-Caribbean appearance. A whitewashed edifice with a tiled roof, balustrades, and magenta plumes of bougainvillea, the hotel might have been transplanted from the Costa Brava in Spain. After I checked in to my bungalow—an expansive white cottage with a swimming pool and a secluded beach—the staff invited me to be seated in the Mango Restaurant, where I got my first taste of the establishment’s raison d’être: the farm. Practically everything the resort serves is culled from 20 acres on the precipice that looms above Le Soleil d’Or’s main building. A light lunch of crispy spring rolls accompanied by potent sprigs of basil, tender cucumbers, and sweet peppers perked up my palate; and thus
BOTTOM: JULIE CORSETTI
that flow seamlessly, blending sea and sunlight. The 8,500-square-foot spa, for example, though located below the lobby level, is flooded with natural light. A breezeway from the reception area leads to Ave, the Seafire’s primary restaurant, which, under the direction of the resort’s executive chef, Massimo De Francesca, combines imported and locally sourced ingredients to create a menu that captures the island’s multicultural personality. The interior offers casual seating areas around the bar, while the seats at the counter of the open kitchen belong to Avecita, a restaurant within the restaurant specializing in tapas and pintxos. Beside the main building and the pool complex stand three beach-facing bungalows and the residential tower, which houses 62 condominiums ranging in price from $1 million to $8 million. Astwilightapproached,ourpartygathered on the terrace, awaiting the phenomenon that gives the new resort its name. A seafire, I was told, is a brilliant flash of green that, under the right conditions, appears at the moment the sun hits the horizon on the Caribbean Sea off Seven Mile Beach. Thanks, however, to the cloudy fallout of Hurricane Matthew, on that evening we were denied the spectacle and settled instead for a radiant sunset.
THE NAUTILUS
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Paradise Restored
refreshed, I asked my mixologist, an enthusiastic young woman named Angel Robledo, to arrange a tour of the farm. My guide drove me up a steep road to a heavy wooden gate, where we traded our SUV for a golf cart that he steered along carefully raked gravel paths. The stonebordered beds of fragrant citrus, spiny pineapple, burgeoning melons, and sundry esoteric plants suggested not a farm but a manicured botanical garden in which everything was orderly as well as edible. Even the chicken coop pleased the eye, devoid of the blemishes usually associated with such facilities. The guide sped along with mounting enthusiasm, stopping only to pluck some tart fruits resembling green cherries for me to try, as two lethargic blue iguanas, having already partaken themselves, looked on. Later that evening I learned that the farm yielded liquid bounty as well. After dinner, Robledo suggested I try one of her specialty cocktails. Minutes later, she returned with a small sherry glass containing a dark liquid topped with foam, a sprinkle of brown dust, and a wedge of dried coconut. The portion was small, but the flavors were profound— chocolate,brownspices,andhotpepper.“MyExtravaganza,” she announced. “Everything in it is from the farm.”
THE FARM AT Le Soleil d’Or reinforced for me the resilience of the Caymanian people, who have, through
Island Renewal
the centuries, transformed these expanses of limestone, sand, and mangrove swamps into vibrant and colorful havens. No indigenous cultures were displaced to make this possible; indeed, the islands seemed a triptych of blank canvases for continual creation and re-creation. My account of the farm prompted one of the executives attached to the Kimpton Seafire to arrange my visit to this private garden on Grand Cayman, where the gardener, an uninhibited narrator, now recounts for my benefit an incident involving a visiting notable and the wife of a local dignitary who were nearly caught disporting themselves in the foliage during a tea party. Changing the subject, I point to a palm tree that looks as if it has been knocked over on its side and ask if this was the work of Ivan. He shrugs indifferently. “It’ll keep growing, as long as it has roots,” he says. By way of proof, he leads me to a clearing where, before a small waterfall, three nearly intertwined palms, once prone, curve gracefully skyward, their trunks patiently defying gravity and the forces of nature to thrive. And so it is with these islands. Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa, seafireresortandspa .com; Le Soleil d’Or, lesoleildor.com; The Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman, ritzcarlton.com/grandcayman
persuaded him to locate his global head-
quarters there. To attract top talent, however, the community needed a cohe-
WHEN KEN DART—owner of Dart Realty, one of the Cayman Islands’ most successful developers—arrived on Grand Cayman in the 1980s, he was struck by the beauty of the location. But the financial-services infrastructure and the straightforward land-registry system
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behind the town of Camana Bay,” says Dart Realty president Jackie Doak. The mixed-use, waterfront development on Grand Cayman’s North Sound is one of the first of its kind in the Caribbean. Camana Bay (camanabay.com), which
Seerman, vice president of sales at Dart Realty. “People don’t ask about finishes and fixtures; they want to know about experiences and what they can do with their families while they are here. Quality time together is more valuable than anything else.” —B.A.
JODI JACOBSON/ISTOCK
Right: Camana Bay
sive urban center. “That was the vision
combines residential, commercial, retail, and entertainment spaces with a stateof-the-art school, has quickly become the heart of day-to-day life on the island. Demand for luxury residences on Grand Cayman has been spurred in recent years by the sophisticated amenities present at Camana Bay, as well as by the lack of restrictions on foreign ownership and the absence of property taxes. In addition to the Residences at Seafire (seafireresidencescayman.com), would-be owners might consider Salt Creek (saltcreek.ky), a newly launched development featuring large waterfront lots and separate carriage houses. Still, the island’s emphasis on family remains the primary draw. “The definition of luxury has changed,” says David
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The Wild Philanthropists Throughout the African continent, individual donors are reshaping conservation models—and transforming the concept of luxury travel.
TOM PARKER
BY SOPHY ROBERTS
n a day in late January 2016, a team of antipoaching specialists employed by African Parks flew by helicopter to a GPS point deep in the western reaches of Gambella, a 1,954-square-mile national park in Ethiopia close to the border with South Sudan. They were investigating why one of the four elephant collars that African Parks was monitoring in the area had stopped transmitting. When they arrived on the scene, in a floodplain near the Gilo River, they found five dead elephants, including the collared cow. The animals had been shot by poachers, who had attempted to conceal the carcasses in grass but had yet to remove their ivory. After an hour’s toil in a 5-foot-deep swamp, the African Parks specialists and their colleagues from the Ethiopian Wildlife and Conservation Authority were able to retrieve only one tusk. Recently enlisted by the Ethiopian government, the Johannesburgbased African Parks was functioning with limited resources. The conservation group—which works in eight countries across Africa, rehabilitating 23,000 square miles of wilderness—lacked the full operational mandate to start the boots-on-theground antipoaching work for which it is known. In fact, to have the helicopter present at all when the collar’s transmission ceased was a curious stroke of luck. The helicopter had been chartered from Kenya for a group of international donors who were visiting Gambella with Peter Fearnhead, the CEO of African Parks. Rather than vacationing at a five-star safari lodge, these five travelers were negotiating a
The Wild Philanthropists
A ranger (far right) hauls a tusk retrieved from an elephant poached in the Democratic Republic of Congo’s Garamba National Park (above and previous pages). In Kenya, Richard Roberts (top right, foreground) and his team tend to a tranquilized elephant.
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
walk the sun-scorched earth among elephants whose behavior is changing out of fear for their lives, strikes at the core of what makes us human. It is a story I have been covering closely for the last few years, on trips into parts of the African continent where frontline conservation is taking place but mainstream tourism has yet to penetrate. These assignments, largely for the Financial Times, have taken me to 13 African countries, including Chad, Rwanda, and Ethiopia. At times, the facts and figures—an elephant is killed every 15 minutes, a rhino every 8 hours— can be heart-wrenching. But I have noticed a philanthropic trend reaching over all these stories like an umbrella. In its simplest iteration, the trend involves a high-net-worth individual traveling to a remote area, engaging in its conservation, and writing a check—often from a foundation the person has established— to an organization such as African
Parks. Taking it a step further are individuals who are leasing massive tracts of land and providing the financial support to restore and protect them. Facilitating both forms of the phenomenon is a new breed of specialists who help broker deals and, equally important, create the travel experiences to expose potential donors to off-the-radar opportunities. “I guide all over Africa, experiencing beautiful lodges on $100,000-plus itineraries,” said Michael Lorentz, the South African safari specialist who brought me to Gambella and whose company, Passage to Africa, arranged the complex logistics for African Parks’ donors. (On their return home, the group committed to an annual donation of $1 million to $3 million as a direct result of their trip.) “Most guests want to have a beautiful vacation in the African wilderness, but there are also travelers out there with deep pockets
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remote swath of the continent to see what this tract of wilderness had left to save—and if it merited their philanthropy. I, too, was in Gambella during the poaching incident. The moment was overwhelming—both for the beauty of the landscape, peppered with rare Nile lechwe and elegant shoe-billed storks, and for the bleakness of the situation. Witnessing the wet blood on the ivory, and the silence of the rangers when they came back into camp carrying the lone tusk, I experienced an entirely different emotional response than I had at any other time in my years of reporting on poaching and conservation issues. I thought of the glittering fund-raisers I had attended for African wildlife, where Prince William and others cast their celebrity magic dust about the room. All of this helps, of course, but to witness the stench of death in the field, to observe the strength of men and women doing this work, to
TOM PARKER
who want to be exposed to the issues. So I take them to those places. It’s by no means always luxurious, but it is sophisticated. It is about the interaction between tourism, conservation, and philanthropy in parts of Africa where they come together in a very real sense.” According to Paul Milton, whose London-based Milton Group advises private family offices on conservationoriented philanthropy, it is a confluence that gained traction with the financial collapse in 2008. “NGOs could no longer fill the gap with small donations from the man in the street with regards to funding the conservation of large, at-risk environments,” he said. “But there has also been another side to the financial collapse. Families are starting to pay more attention to the future economic sustainability of their investments, and the interest their kids hold in projects for the long term. This next generation cares about
the environment; they have a more spiritual, emotional, and holistic approach.” Milton has worked with the U.S. hedge-fund manager Paul Tudor Jones, who leases 350,000 acres in Tanzania as part of a luxury tourism and conservation project called Singita Grumeti. This is a welldocumented story, not least because of the quality of the lodges Tudor Jones and his South African partner, Singita’s Luke Bailes, have put in place. The property’s extravagant suites, swimming pools, spa treatments, and private-guided safaris help lure first-time visitors to Africa in an environment where they can feel safe while still being exposed to some of the conservation issues at play. Offering a completely different perspective is African Parks’ project in Chad, which I visited in January 2015. Bordered by Libya, Sudan, Nigeria, Cameroon, and the Central African
Republic, Chad is a country where security issues and threats to wildlife are very real. In Zakouma National Park, poaching has decimated the local elephant population, which has dropped from around 4,000 to fewer than 500 in the last decade. These numbers have started to improve under African Parks’ care, but threats and security issues remain. The dangers are not enough, however, to deter Lorentz—last April he made his sixth JANUARY 2017 | ROBB REP ORT.COM
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The Wild Philanthropists
The U.S. industrialist James Coleman helped fund a new tourism and conservation project in Chad’s Zakouma National Park (above and right), where rangers work in rivers rife with crocodiles.
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
for themselves and understand the challenges it has overcome.” Coleman’s point rang true when, a few months later, I traveled to Kenya to join an elephant-collaring exercise close to the Maasai Mara. Veterinarians working with the Mara Elephant Project were darting the elephants and attaching GPS collars so the organization could track the movement of the animals and monitor their safety. (In the Mara, much of the threat to elephants comes from agriculturalists, who kill the animals when they damage crops.) Also present at the collaring event was a representative of the Irish philanthropist Denis O’Brien, who committed a six-figure sum to the Mara Elephant Project after taking a safari with
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visit to Zakouma—or the most intrepid of the new philanthropists. James Coleman, an industrialist from the United States, donated funds to build a new high-end tourism venture in Zakouma. Called Camp Nomade, it is as beautiful as anything I have experienced in East Africa—eight elegant canvas tents outfitted with rugs from Libya, carved wooden trunks, golden camel bells, and silver jugs—in the last place on the continent I expected to find it. The income from every stay is directed 100 percent back into conservation. “Zakouma is such an exotic landscape,” Coleman told me in an interview for the Financial Times. “There’s quite simply nothing else like it. People need to see it
Richard Roberts, one of its founders. Roberts launched the organization in 2011 with the Indianapolis-based philanthropist Suzanne Fehsenfeld, who, since falling in love with Africa on safari, has dedicated more than $1 million to the project. Two months later, I visited Garamba and Virunga National Parks in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, both of which had received significant funding from the Illinois-based philanthropist Howard Buffett as well as sizable donations from a highprofile philanthropist who visited the parks days before I arrived. In Virunga I was guided by Kate Doty, a managing director at the San Francisco–based Geographic Expeditions—another specialist in organizing trips for donors. Also tapping into this market is Will Jones of the UK-based Journeys by Design. Jones, who has guided the likes of Ralph Lauren, launched Wild Philanthropy Travel in late 2015 to complement his existing safari business. Like Lorentz, he has seen more customers asking to travel deeper into the issues at play in order to give back on a scale that makes a difference to entire ecosystems, not just specific charities. But while Lorentz has worked mostly with large nongovernmental organizations, Jones pairs philanthropists with private
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The Wild Philanthropists
On patrol in Virunga National Park (right and below), where Howard Buffett is helping to fund conservation efforts.
conservation projects. Using an intimate network of contacts on the ground, he looks for tracts of land where communities can be enabled to protect the wildlife. In making an investment, the funder can also be a beneficiary by enjoying access to— and even building private homes in— areas other travelers can’t easily visit. There are other benefits too. The business is set up as a members’ club, with three tiers of annual fees ranging from $25,000 to $100,000. With membership, any trip booked to conservation areas Wild Philanthropy is engaged with is charged at cost. In addition, all the membership funds are channeled back to support the company’s core projects. When I first heard about Wild Philanthropy, which has had a few false starts as Jones finessed the model, I questioned whether the club was as much about conservation as exclusivity. So Jones invited me to join him in Ntakata, a remote forest in western Tanzania, to see the model firsthand. The roadless forest is home to the Watongwe, or the
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foot, camping, and eating bowls of rice—Jones pulled Roland Purcell out of retirement from his rambling estate in Ireland, where he had settled after nearly two decades in the African bush. Purcell, who is of Irish and Australian descent, left his job as a
TOM PARKER
Tongwe people, who consider eastern long-haired chimpanzees to be sacred. (The Watongwe identified apes as humankind’s direct ancestors long before modern scientists did.) To elevate our safari experience—there was nothing luxurious about traveling by bike and
fine-art auctioneer in Nairobi in 1987 to work with the mountain gorillas in Rwanda. In 1989 he built Greystoke Mahale, which remains one of the most exquisite lodges in Africa. The lodge is located on the whitesand beaches of Tanzania’s Lake Tanganyika, where Purcell lived for 17 years with his wife, Zoe, and two children. Occasionally he guided at a fee of $1,000 a day, when everyone else in the industry was charging less than half that rate. So when Jones told me he had struck a deal with his old friend to guide me through a hidden forest, which borders the same lake where Greystoke Mahale still thrives, I started to believe he might be offering something off the map. We did the same trip, less a helicopter, that Purcell is leading for Wild Philanthropy members next year— with the intention of locking in a million-dollar endowment to support the forest’s protection in perpetuity. “Just the 5 percent annual interest on this sum will generate the $50,000
The Wild Philanthropists
Tanzania’s Mwiba Lodge is part of a massive conservation project funded by Texas’s Friedkin family, which leases more than 5,000 square miles in the country.
ROBB REP ORT.COM | JANUARY 2017
year on community development and antipoaching, including helicopters, microlites, and staff. We were flying in Moyowosi—not far from Purcell’s stomping grounds, on Lake Tanganyika’s shores—hovering over a gallery forest encircled by swamp with a canopy as thick as Ntakata’s. Jones, who was with me again, ventured that this relic forest might also sequester chimpanzees; at one time, he said, the chimps would have moved freely between these patches of forest, traveling all the way down this western swath of Tanzania. On the 2018 donor trip, which will include a tour of the Moyowosi forest and the Friedkin concessions, he plans to go searching to see if his theory holds true. “We want to inspire our members with modest opportunities like Ntakata, and giant examples like the Friedkins,” Jones said. “Engaging in Africa is about understanding the bigger conservation mosaic. It is a complicated, textured world. For example, Moyowosi is a hunting area, but the Friedkins are also conservationists on a formidable scale. Not everyone can square the two. There are occasions when I can. All this
needs to be discussed in the open with individuals who have enough of a passion for Africa to engage with the realities at the sharp end. The one thing everyone who signs up to Wild Philanthropy needs to understand is that conservation in this century is a dangerous and thankless task.” Jones’s words proved prescient. On the same day I was in Gambella in January, the same R44 helicopter we’d flown in Moyowosi was shot out of the sky by elephant poachers—killing the pilot, Roger Gower, with whom I had worked 18 months prior. Thus I was reminded of another reality behind the wild-philanthropy trend at play: how giving is by no means a soft luxury. In modern Africa, it means engaging with the risk of paying the biggest price of all. African Parks, africanparks.eu; Friedkin Conservation Fund, friedkinfund.org; Geographic Expeditions, geoex.com; Milton Group, paulmilton.com; Passage to Africa, passagetoafrica.com; Singita Grumeti, singita.com; The Tongwe Trust, tongwetrust .org; Wild Philanthropy Travel, wildphilanthropy.com
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needed to run the entire ranger force,” said Purcell, who cofounded the Tongwe Trust in 2002. “The forest doesn’t need much: some bikes, binoculars, uniforms, and salaries of $100 a month per ranger for a force of 18.” The 187-square-mile, village-owned reserve suffers from the slash-andburn incursions of Burundian refugees, as well as poachers. Purcell introduced us to the issues, but also to the forest’s lures. We took shade under the flying buttresses of vast 200-year-old trunks. We spent time with the rangers, who carry not weapons but notepads and pens to record the pant-hoots of chimpanzees. We followed the paths elephants had made through thick bush. We lay down and rested by a river close to one of the Watongwe’s sacred groves to listen to the apes. It was a moment of being in wild nature that returned to me a few days later when I was flying in the R44 helicopter operated by the Friedkin Conservation Fund, a nonprofit organizationbankrolledbytheTexas-based Friedkin family. The Friedkins, who have 5,245 square miles of wilderness under lease in Tanzania, spend more than $3 million of private funds every
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Dream Trips
Upgrade your travel experiences by following these 10 tips for getting premium sleep while away from home. BY JANICE Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;LEARY
A
T ITS BEST, travel can be a thrilling adventure that reboots both body and mind. At its worst, it can wreak havoc with sleep, which will put a cranky damper on exploring your destination. Long-term lack of sleep can make you look older; it can cause you to gain weight and experience more pain; and it can leave you more likely to engage in risky behavior or act unprofessionally in work settings. While chronic sleep deprivation may significantly compromise overall health and well-being, even brief periods of sleep loss can affect mood and memory. So if you want to etch the highlights of a trip into your recollections, getting quality slumber while traveling
Dream Trips
Right: A cashmere neck pillow from Loro Piana. Below: British Airways’ First Suites.
should be a priority, and it is easier than ever to do so. The real issue when crossing time zones, says Dr. Rachel Salas, a neurologist at Johns Hopkins Medicine, is exposure to light. “Light, especially sunlight, is the biggest clock resetter we have,” she says. If we can reset our circadian clocks when we travel, then we are much more likely to enjoy the trip. Many top international hotels design their rooms for optimal sleep so you can be your best self. Travel can also be tough on sleep because by its very nature it casts aside routines. A healthy sleep regimen, however, is one habit you will want to preserve during your trip. Dr. Param Dedhia—the director of sleep medicine at Canyon Ranch in Tucson, Ariz.—says ideal sleep hygiene includes keeping nonsleeping activities out of the bedroom. That’s challenging when your hotel room or flight cabin has to serve as a workspace. Nevertheless, you can still harmonize your external environment with your internal state by following these tips:
1.
Reset before you even leave home. You can begin adjusting your sleep clock to a new country’s time zone at home by wearing darkening glasses or visors, or by going to bed and waking earlier or later, says Salas. She also suggests using a light box to tell your brain to wake up, even if it’s dark outside, or drawing blackout curtains to bring on the night a little earlier.
2. Plan to arrive in a foreign country in the morning and sleep on the plane. If you need help falling asleep, Salas suggests a 1 mg dose of melatonin, a hormone the body produces to signal the mind that sleep is around the corner. Take it 30 minutes to 1 hour before you want to sleep, she says, but don’t use it as a sleeping pill: “It’s not a very good one.
In our clinic we use it as a circadianrhythm anchor.”
3. Forgo the beverage-service nightcap. The most commonly used sleep aid, Dedhia says, is alcohol. However, it’s a poor choice. Every serving of alcohol affects sleep for 2 hours, he says. Sedation levels increase for the first hour, but during the second hour arousal increases as the alcohol leaves the body.
4. Bring your own pillow. Sleep posture can affect sleep quality, especially if you have pain or sleep apnea, says Nancy Davis, an expert on sleep posture at Canyon Ranch. Unless you have sleep apnea, sleeping on your back is best—and most first-class lieflat airline seats now extend to 6.5 feet. Side sleeping is the second preferred position for good slumber,
Getting Some Shut-Eye in the Sky
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If you’re not flying privately, then choose first class or business class. You especially want to be well rested if you have to hit the ground running when you arrive at your destination. Try to book a lie-flat seat bed or premium cabin with sleep pods, such as those on British Airways, Qantas, and Korean Air airliners. Better still are the full-bed suites and “first apartments” offered by Singapore Airlines and Etihad Airways. “You can lower the light, block the noise, and control your sleep environment,” says Johns Hopkins’ Dr. Rachel Salas.
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A NEW LEVEL OF LUXURY
MONACO’S CHANGING LANDSCAPE MONACO’S CHANGING LANDSCAPE Heralded as a glamorous vacation and business destination for the most discerning world travelers, Monaco may be most famous for its Grand Prix and for the casino and entertainment complex located in the center of chic and cosmopolitan Monte-Carlo; however, the independent and sovereign Principality, set along the Riviera, is gaining international acclaim for its commitment to healthy living as well as its pledge to preserving the environment. HEALTHY INDULGENCES Within Monaco’s borders, which encompass an area smaller than one square mile, an eclectic mix of flavors and cuisine is served up in more than 130 restaurants—six of which have earned a combined nine Michelin stars. Indulgent fare is always on the menu, but a number of restaurants are emphasizing healthier courses and meals as well. At his namesake restaurant at the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo, for example, Joel Robuchon recently unveiled an eight-course vegetarian and gluten-free menu. One mile north along the beach, Chef Paolo Sari relies on his own vegetable garden to produce beautifully arranged dishes at Elsa, the first (and still only) 100 percent organic restaurant to earn a Michelin star.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT MONACO AND PLAN YOUR TRIP, GO TO VISITMONACO.COM/US.
WELLNESS ON THE RISE For decades, Monaco—with its numerous world-class destination spas—has attracted those who seek rejuvenation and respite. Today that tradition is as strong as it has ever been. In 2016 the Odeon Spa Sisley opened within Monaco’s tallest residential building, the Odeon Tower; and in February 2017, the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo will unveil the new Spa Metropole by Givenchy, one of only a handful of Givenchy spas in the world, which will combine Eastern and Western philosophies in its various treatment offerings. Additionally, Monaco’s first destination spa, Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo, underwent an extensive renovation in 2014. The spa focuses on European massage techniques and therapies, including cryotherapy, and utilizes the healing power of salt water—which is only fitting, given that it is set in a stunning location that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. A SUSTAINABLE PARADISE Since 1873, when Monaco’s Prince Albert I searched for ways to preserve the world’s oceans, the independent Principality has been steadfast in its efforts as a leader in environmental protection and conservation. In response to the United Nations’ International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development initiative in 2017—a program that incorporates 17 goals toward sustainable and environmentally friendly lifestyles in the future—Monaco has increased its reliance on public transportation (all of which is powered by electric, hybrid or biofuel) by creating dedicated lanes for those vehicles. The Principality has also developed systems that turn garbage into fuel and purify water before it is discharged into the Mediterranean. Organic festivals and other green initiatives, like the second all-electric FIA Formula E Monaco ePrix this May, prove that today’s Monaco is an alluring destination for reasons beyond its superlative glamour and luxury.
Pictured above (L to R): Casino Square and Monte-Carlo Pavilions © 2014 MC-CLIC Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo © MONTE-CARLO SBM FIA Formula E Monaco ePrix © VENTURI AUTOMOBILES
Dream Trips
8. Be mindful of sleep trackers. These could backfire and cause anxiety if you discover you’re not getting enough sleep. But, Salas says, they can help by making sleep a priority.
9. Keep it cool. To help restore cells, the body and brain’s temperature drops during sleep, says Dedhia. Travelers can fall asleep faster by mimicking this cooling process. Dedhia and Salas both suggest indulging in a hot bath or shower before bed. The subsequent cooling can help prompt sleep. And keeping your hotel room’s temperature between 64 and 69 degrees will help you sleep soundly.
10.
Above: Inside a Stay Well suite at the MGM Grand Las Vegas. Right: The bedroom of an Etihad Airways Residence.
Davis says. Whatever your sleep position, you want a pillow that supports your neck. Davis notes that most down pillows can easily be stuffed into a carry-on. She suggests tugging the bottom corners of the pillow down toward the shoulders to make a nest for your head.
5. Get exposure to light early in the day and retire to a dark room at night. When you change time zones, you’re really changing when your body is being exposed to light, which confuses the sleep/wake signals for the brain. “If you get light exposure at the same time every morning, that’s essentially when your brain is reset, like a stopwatch,” says Salas. When you alter that, you scramble the cues to the brain.
Dolder Grand, the darkening shades can even be programmed to let light into the room gradually.
7.
Embrace sleep-inducing technology. Use downloadable dimmers for your computer and the night-shift function on your iPhone to switch over from brain-waking blue light to sleepinducing warm-hued light. Consider using products like the new Genesis lamp from Lighting Science, which attunes to your circadian patterns and adjusts its light output accordingly.
Stick to your normal routines as much as possible. The brain loves patterns—they help it understand when it’s time to wake or sleep. You can give it the same signals when you travel by sticking to that morning workout or afterdinner walk. Just avoid strenuous activity too close to bedtime, Salas advises, because it stimulates waking hormones and endorphins. “The mind and body respond to habits,” Dedhia says, so consistency of sleep and wake times might be even more important than the number of horizontal hours you log.
6. Choose a hotel with a pillow
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menu, blackout curtains, and circadian lighting. Most luxury hotels have made guests’ sleep a priority. MGM Grand, for instance, offers Stay Well suites in Las Vegas. They’re equipped with dawn-simulating alarm clocks, warm-hued lighting that won’t send the brain cues to wake more substantially during middle-of-the-night bathroom trips, and energizing light therapy for the morning. At Zurich’s
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Somerset Farm. Stunning country estate on 15 acres of parkland with Victorian barn, English ruins, gardens and 3 car coach house. Close to Creemore with dir access to Toronto Pearson Intl Airport, 1:15 hrs away. $3,500,000 CAD. pprime@sothebysrealty.ca
A safe, secluded & luxurious sanctuary outside the US, yet only a 2.5 hour flight to Miami. Mountainside, spectacular views of entire Central Valley. Surrounded by wildlife & lush tropical plants, with modern comfort. $5,900,000. Edda Flores. info@sircostarica.com
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Estate at Grace Bay Club G301 is a beautifully customized residence overlooking the majestic Estate pool and exclusive compound. The layout features 3 spacious BR, den/media room in 4,474 sf. $3,850,000 US. Nina.Siegenthaler@sothebysrealty.com
The ultimate Salcito custom home. Located within the highly sought after guard gated community of La Place Du Sommet. The negative edge pool & spa offer the most spectacular views in the valley. Situated on almost 2 acres. $3,000,000. Frank Aazami.
In the exclusive Pinnacle Vista gated enclave, this custom 8,918 sf ‘green’ estate home w/ great room floor plan is ideal for entertaining. Resort-like backyard oasis with salt water pool. Endless mountain & sunset views on this 5+ acre parcel. $3,600,000. Frank Aazami.
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Golf lover’s paradise. Situated on 14th fairway of world famous La Costa Golf Course. Custom designed tropical oasis embracing elegance and sophistication. Entertaining beyond all expectations. $4,999,900. Ria Scoma. Ria@riasells.com
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Wine country setting with resort style amenities. Panoramic views, guest cottage, art studio/barn, pool/spa, gardens & vineyard. Mins to Healdsburg Plaza. WEB: 0088184. $9,950,000. Sheri Morgensen.
Sculptured creation by one of today’s best artists. It evokes a sense of being transported to a world of your own. WEB: B6XE29. $4,900,000. Enzo Ricciardelli and Leonardo Montenegro.
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Experience breathtaking sunsets every day from your own home overlooking expansive water views. Excellent location in private gated community w/ golf, tennis, fitness & much more. $4,950,000. Michelle Thomas. michelle.thomas@sothebysrealty.com
Experience true perfection in your own beachfront residence with private pool, spectacular sunsets and panoramic beach and water views. Gated community with exceptional amenities. $9,495,000. Michelle Thomas. michelle.thomas@sothebysrealty.com
Experience paradise in Quail West. This sought after desired single story is located on a private golf course with beautiful lake views and rolling fairways. This magnificent home boasts luxury in every way. Call for your private tour. $4,200,000. Kimberly Alvord.
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Elegance, grandeur and quality describe this magnificent estate constructed of the finest materials and featuring sweeping views of the 18th green and fairway at Country Club of the South. $4,200,000. Ken Gary and Tracy Sardelli.
Rarely does an antebellum estate of this architectural and historical significance become available. The approx 9 acre home, built circa 1840, is a landmark of neoclassical design in historic Roswell. $3,850,000. Cheri Riley and Jim Glover.
Stunning 3.2 acre parcel with 900’± of waterfront including sandy cove, oyster beds, rocky ledges, and an existing home perfectly suited for expansion. Build a new home on the ridge overlooking Fish House Cove. Price upon request. Kim Latour.
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The finest example of architecture and workmanship in the DC area combines the talents of award-winning architect Glenn Fong and nationally recognized interior designer Barry Dixon. $18,000,000. Marc Fleisher. marc@thefleishergroup.com
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F L AT H E A D L A K E , M ON TA NA GARNET MOUNTAIN RANGE, MONTANA
22+ private island acres resting in the middle of Flathead Lake. This 5 BR, 8 bath estate is a luxurious 22,000 sf with over 4,800’ of private, secluded lakefront access. Includes guest/boathouse, exquisite finishes. $39,000,000. Dawn Maddux.
Nestled between the Clark Fork River & the Garnet Mountain Range on up to 8,200 acres, Bearmouth Legacy Ranch is a rare Montana find. Luxury lodge, guest chalets, shooting range & prime hunting. Acreage options. $8,550,000-$15,900,000. Dawn Maddux.
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This uniquely secluded gated Tahoe lodge sits on 7.75 acres of lush splendor that borders forestry property. 8 en suite BR, 9.5 baths and a separate guest house welcomes all. Bearcrossing3db.com $13,000,000. Diane Brown.
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1049 Fifth Ave. All new sprawling and sun-filled 8 room condo w/ extensive renovation. Dramatic Central Park & Reservoir views. WEB: 00110814. $12,500,000. J. H. Bucknam, A. F. Jordan & N. Field.
A luxury full floor home in an 8-unit condo in the heart of Greenwich Village. WEB: 00111134. $9,995,000. C. Poore & E. Dagan. chris.poore@sothebyshomes.com, eyal.dagan@sothebyshomes.com
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140 E 81 St. Wonderful 9 room prewar home with multiple options. It allows pied-a-terre living and is pet friendly WEB: 00111156. $3,850,000. P. J. Gallaway. phyllis.gallaway@sothebyshomes.com
This elegant 3 BR, 7 room co-op is nestled in the very heart of Manhattan’s historic Gold Coast. WEB: 00111148. $2,575,000 Michelle E. Bourgeois. michelle.bourgeois@sothebyshomes.com
Elegant home between Park and Madison Ave flooded in light w/ floor-through residence, Empire State Building views, 2 full baths. WEB: 00111188. $1,895,000. Mae. H. Bagai & Arthur Hung.
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PORTFOLIO ART // AUCTION // DESIGN
Bathed in Style
JEREMY MASON MCGRAW
A Swiss wellness retreat springs from architecture’s great minds. With its white exterior and minimal interiors, 7132 Hotel (7132.com) is a far cry from the traditional Swiss chalet. Designed by the Pritzker Prize–winning architect Peter Zumthor in the mid-1990s and built around thermal springs, the resort is a modern architectural achievement nestled in the towering Alps. Recently, the Vals retreat— which was declared a protected monument just 2 years after opening—became even more noteworthy with the debut of 63 guest rooms newly designed by top talents. Thom Mayne of Morphosis Architects has created 22 rooms wrapped from ceiling to wall to floor in indigenous stone or wood; the Japanese designer Kengo Kuma has unveiled 23 light-filled accommodations lined with panels of Swiss oak; and Tadao Ando, the Pritzker Prize–winning architect from Osaka, has invoked a sense of traditional Japanese tea houses with his 18 rooms featuring slatted wood walls and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the verdant valley outside. In July, the hotel plans to reveal 15 more high-design rooms and suites, all with access to Zumthor’s striking thermal baths. —SCOTT HAAS
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Moving Parts Patek Philippe’s latest travel watch is a study in adjustment. With its sleek Calatrava-style case, the latest World Time Chrono graph Ref. 5930 from Patek Philippe ($73,700, patek.com) is hands down the company’s most compelling world-time offering. “The most challenging part was taking the time with the designer to make sure that the watch was readable and aesthetic,” says Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s head of research and development. “This is a watch for travelers, so we wanted something modern, sporty, and easy to use.”
The Ref. 5930 combines two complications that have been in Patek Philippe’s arsenal for well over a decade, but the task of linking the company’s most modern self-winding chronograph movement with its world-time complication proved a far steeper technical challenge than it might seem from the watch’s clean display and operation. For starters, the main part of the movement— the portion containing the chronograph—simply did not fit with the world-time mechanism that sits on top, just under the dial. “The axis of the minute counter was in the way of the [world-time module’s] 24-hour disk,” says Barat. “For
us it was far easier to modify the chronograph than the world-time mechanism.” Siftingthroughseveraloptions that posed readability issues, Barat elected to move the minute counter, positioned on the 6 o’clock axis, slightly toward the center. This seemingly minor adjustment required the modification of the baseplate, bridge, two wheels, a pinion, and the reset hammer— changes that necessitated a battery of tests over 2 years. Patek Philippe’s world-time system—a modification of the design that the independent
watchmaker Louis Cottier produced for Patek Philippe and other brands in the 1930s— also underwent changes. The designers added a seconds scale for the chronograph hand, between the 24-hour and city disks. They designed these disks to advance together with a pusher once they have been set. The stationary chronograph scale, however, introduced a new source of friction, prompting the designers to swap the paint and lacquer on the disks for a low-friction PVD treatment. The system’s new construction also afforded Barat and his team the opportunity to revise the world-time module, tightly integrating the dial components into the working elements underneath to save space. —JAMES D. MALCOLMSON
An exploded view shows the modified chronograph base movement with the world-time module on top.
Look for additional coverage of timepieces in Robb Report Watch Collector, now available on newsstands.
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From a Russian with Love An exhibition in Paris reveals a Moscow-born collector’s passion for art.
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Degas (shown above: La Danseuse dans l’atelier du photographe, 1875), Henri Matisse, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Auguste Renoir, Olga Rozanova, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, and Vincent van Gogh. Some 130 pieces on display belonged to the Russian businessman and art patron Sergei Shchukin as part of an even larger amassment that he housed—and shared with the public at no charge—in his palace
in Moscow before the collection was confiscated by Lenin. Curated by Anne Baldassari (formerly of the Musée Picasso) and produced with help from Russia’s Pushkin and Hermitage Museums and the Tretyakov State Gallery, the show takes visitors on an aesthetic journey made all the more beautiful by its setting: the Frank Gehry–designed Fondation Louis Vuitton (fondationlouisvuitton.fr). —LORI BRYAN
MOSCOW THE PUSHKIN STATE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
If Paris is always a good idea, as the saying goes, then it is an especially enticing proposition now: Through February 20, visitors to the City of Light can view a pivotal private art collection that has not been assembled in a single location since the late 1940s. The exhibition, Icons of Modern Art: The Shchukin Collection, presents works by a long list of celebrated artists, among them Paul Cézanne, Edgar
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MB&F, pages 22-23 mbandf.com
Mitchell Billiard Designs, page 103 mitchellebd.com
Monaco Tourism, page 119 visitmonaco.com/us
Montage Hotels & Resorts, pages 26-27 montagehotels.com
Moorings, The, page 131 moorings.com/robbreport
Morphy Auctions, page 129 morphyauctions.com
Oil Nut Bay, page 89 oilnutbay.com
Orbita Watchwinders/ Brown Safe, pages 87, 113 orbita.com; brownsafe.com
Resort at Paws Up, The, page 31 pawsup.com
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Golden Oak at Walt Disney World Resort, page 93
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Trump International Hotel & Tower Vancouver, page 45 trumphotels.com
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