Sun-Kissed Playground

The Ultimate Guide to San Diego:

By Ann Wycoff

A HEAVENLY SLICE OF THE WEST COAST, SAN DIEGO STANDS OUT as a coastal paradise with a perfect blend of natural wonders and urban sophistication. As the birthplace of California, it’s rich in history. As a binational region and border town, the city is elevated by Mexico’s influence, which adds flavor and fiesta to the culture. With 70 miles of coastline, there’s always a new beach to explore. And 300-plus days of sunshine makes it a year-round playground whether you want to charge some waves, kayak to a secret cove, espy whales while hiking a coastal trail, tee off on an emerald green, stand-up paddle with dolphins, or cycle the Pacific Coast Highway. And while laid back and a favorite of beach-goers, San Diego has evolved beyond its fish-taco-flip-flop SoCal surfer culture into a dynamic cultural city with culinary flare, artistic design and adventure abound. There’s Michelin-starred chefs; authentic farm-to-table dining as the region boasts 5,500 small farms (the most in any U.S. county); 150 craft breweries; family-owned wineries; Broadway-bound theater world-class art; and the best collection of adventure parks for kids big and small. Oh, and, of course, tacos!

CULTURE + ADVENTURE

BALBOA PARK

Set at the edge of downtown, this 1,200-acre green oasis is a perfect blend of culture and nature with its 17 museums, Old Globe Theatre, blooming gardens, picnic spots and 65 miles of hiking trails. You’ll find Miro and Rodin in the sculpture court, stunning Spanish Colonial architecture, 2,100 rare and exotic plants in the Botanical Building, a photo-worthy lily pond, artist studios in cobblestoned Spanish Village, free concerts at the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, cherry blossoms at the Japanese Friendship Garden and more. balboapark.org

OLD TOWN

San Diego’s oldest enclave and the first European settlement in California may feel a tad touristy but you can explore Old Town’s historic adobes, a famed haunted house, Kumeyaay culture, Mexican cantinas, and an old-fashioned mercantile shop. Then head to the Tahona Bar for a mole flight and mezcal tasting. oldtownsandiego.org

THE FLOWER FIELDS AT CARLSBAD RANCH

From March to May, a rainbow of ranunculus flowers color a 50-acre hillside overlooking the Carlsbad coastline. Owned by the Ecke Family, whose legacy includes introducing the Poinsettia plant as the symbol of the holidays in the 1960s, The Flower Fields showcase nature’s artistry and invite guests to wander through the vibrant fields on foot or on a tractor ride. At this photogenic wonderland you can also explore the Butterfly Garden, orchid greenhouse and sunflower patch, or pick blueberries in the sunshine. There’s even a massive American flag made from the red, white and blue ranunculus flowers. theflowerfields.com

USS MIDWAY + MARITIME MUSEUM

On the USS Midway, a floating aircraft carrier museum, tour the engine room, galley and brig, or climb into the cockpit of one of the 29 restored aircrafts awaiting on the landing deck. More historic ships can be found at the nearby Maritime Museum, home to a Soviet submarine, a steam ferry from 1898 and the Star of India, the world's oldest active sailing ship. midway.org; sdmaritime.org

TORREY PINES STATE RESERVE

Here you’ll find coastal hiking at its finest as the 1,750-acre coastal reserve has a network of trails that wander through the striated sandstone canyons overlooking the sea. The landscape is punctuated by the rare and endangered Torrey Pine, found only in the park and on Santa Rosa Island off Ventura. Various scenic vantage points offer prime views of frolicking dolphins or spouting migrating whales. torreypines.org

CHICANO PARK

Part of the Barrio Logan Cultural District, these colorful murals at the base of the Coronado Bridge pay homage to the city’s Mexican-American history, heritage and activism. In 2017, the park became a National Historic Landmark. chicanoparksandiego.com

SURFING

A surfer’s mecca with every kind of imaginable break, San Diego has 50+ spots to paddle out — from epic Black’s Beach and Windansea in La Jolla, to Swami’s, Cardiff Reef and the Oceanside Pier where the U.S. Olympic Team trains. Newcomers should sign up for a lesson in the gentle waves of La Jolla shores with Surf Diva, an all-female surf school. surfdiva.com

KID HEAVEN

No other city has more amusement and animal parks than San Diego. Commune with the koalas, pandas, penguins and panthers at the world famous San Diego Zoo, enjoy an African Savannah adventure without the jet lag at the Safari Park, swim with dolphins and ride the heart-thumping rollercoasters at SeaWorld, or explore the waterpark, aquarium, miniature exhibits and 60 rides at LEGOLAND. New to the scene is Sesame Place San Diego with a massive wave pool, interactive musical water play and Sesame Street-themed rides. sandiegozoowildlifealliance.org; seaworld. com; legoland.com; sesameplace.com

ON THE WATER

Gray whales migrating to and from the breeding lagoons of Baja pass San Diego each winter from December to March, while 100-foot blue whales often feed off the coast in summer. Dolphin pods frolic year round. For intimate groups and close encounters, hop on Xplore Offshore, a Navy Seal- certified rigid inflatable fast boat, while larger groups can enjoy The Adventuress, a 60’ luxury catamaran. Sailing fans should climb aboard Yacht America, the 139-foot schooner, while families should buckle up for a wild ride on the Patriot Jet Boat, as this turbo-charged boat does 360-degree spins while cruising the harbor. xploreoffshore.com; adventuressluxurycatamaran.com; nextlevelsailing.com; flagshipsd.com

THOROUGHBRED RACING OR DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB

The city's love affair with thoroughbred racing dates back to 1937 when crooner Bing Crosby and his Hollywood pals opened the Del Mar Race Track — “where the turf meets the surf.” Summer season runs from mid-July through early September and Opening Day is a spectacle to behold as race fans don their finest hats and threads, and sip champagne while placing bets on their favorite horse or jockey. Free concerts and food festivals also highlight the season. A second Bing Crosby Season runs in November. dmtc.com

CHINO FARMS

Foodies should pilgrimage to this iconic Japanese-owned farm in San Dieguito Valley that played an integral part in the farm-to-table movement. Chef Alice Waters first publicized the quality of its produce and soon other chef legends like Wolfgang Puck became devotees of their fine fruits and vegetables. Their produce pantry is famous for sweet corn, strawberries, and exotic melons to name a few delights from the bounty. chinofamilyfarm.com

THEATER

Built in 1935 and modeled after Shakespeare's Old Globe in London, this renowned theater has launched Broadway-bound and Tony Awardwinning productions over the years. Each summer the Old Globe celebrates The Bard with performances of his work, and families loves the annual How the Grinch Stole Christmas during the holidays. The La Jolla Playhouse, set on the UC San Diego campus, has great Hollywood history as it was founded by Gregory Peck and Mel Ferrer. Today, it’s known for its Broadway productions and progressive performances like their Without Walls interactive, siteinspired theater. theoldglobe.org; lajollaplayhouse.org

WHERE TO STAY

HOTEL DEL CORONADO

The legendary 1888 Victorian resort with its red turret roofs and white wedding cake trim is truly a seaside gem, modernized while still retaining its old world charm. On-site you’ll discover historic touches like the original 1905 Windsor Cottage and crown chandeliers designed by L. Frank Baum, creator of Dorothy and the Wizard in Oz. In addition to the main hotel, Beach Village at The Del offers an enclave of luxury oceanfront cottages and villas with VIP concierge services, plunge pools and fire pits. The Del has its own private, cabana-lined beach club, stunning pools, myriad ocean view eateries and water sports galore. hoteldel.com

CORMORANT

La Jolla’s newest arrival is walking distance to La Jolla Cove. Each of the 26 chic guestrooms features coastal-inspired design, Art Deco touches and ocean view balconies. Their intimate Birdseye rooftop bar calls for craft cocktails, small plates and panoramic views. Curated coastal picnics available, too. cormorantlajolla.com

THE LODGE AT TORREY PINES This stunning Craftsman-style hotel, an architectural homage to the Gamble and Blacker houses of Pasadena, overlooks the famed golf course. Kilted doormen, oversized fireplaces, stained glass, Tiffany-style lamps, and a sprawling croquet lawn add to the early 20th century splendor. Watch the paragliders while lounging by the pool or enjoy white tablecloth, farm fresh dining at A.R. Valentin. Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve is a short walk away. lodgetorreypines.com

RANCHO VALENCIA

Southern California’s only Relais & Chateaux property enchants as a hacienda-style property set on 45 acres of olive groves and gardens with 49 Spanish-style casitas. It’s hard to find an un-photogenic corner of the Rancho Valencia, which offers its guests plenty to do — from yoga by a reflecting pool and tennis, to a day at their glorious spa or beauty session at the new salon. ranchovalencia.com

LEGOLAND HOTELS

If you want to win parent of the year, check into either of the theme park’s kid-centric hotels. Pirates and ninjas may prefer the California Resort Hotel while princess and dragon-fans should opt for the Castle Hotel. These fantasy wonderlands have smoke breathing dragons, spectacular Lego models, kid-friendly buffets, discoball-dance-party elevators and Lego palm tree-lined pools. legoland.com

THE GREEN ROOM

Surfers and singles may enjoy a stay at this newly converted 1950s motel, now a bungalow-style boutique hotel in Oceanside with mid-century furnishings, cute kitchenettes, and grab-and-go surfboards and beach cruisers. Enjoy the hot tub, fire pit, and curated playlists during your post-surf sesh in the backyard communal area. thegreenroomhotel.com

MISSION PACIFIC HOTEL + THE SEABIRD RESORT

These art-forward and affordable oceanfront hotels are steps from the sea and pier in Oceanside and offer great culinary and toes-in-the-sand experiences. Mission Pacific has a lounge-y rooftop bar for sunset drinks, DJs by the pool, and a renowned Baja chef, while the family-friendly Seabird has a splash-worthy pool, kids’ club and beach concierge. Adults will dig the sunset champagne sabering ritual and creative craft cocktails at The Shore Room bar. missionpacifichotel.com; theseabirdresort.com

History

Spanish explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was the first European to step foot on the West Coast in 1542, landing at Point Loma Peninsula. The Kumeyaay were living peacefully along the coastline when the Spaniards reappeared to rule their new province. In 1769, Mission San Diego de Alcalá was founded by Spanish Friar Junipero Serra, the first of 21 missions in California, each 30 miles apart or a day’s travel by horse. In 1822, the rule of San Diego (named for Saint Diego) was transferred to Mexico and a pueblo was established (now Old Town), but a Mexican-American War win led to San Diego and all of California becoming a part of the United States under President Polk in 1850.

As the waterfront city grew in the 1880s, bars and brothels appeared, along with gambling halls owned by lawman Wyatt Earp. The raucous Gaslamp District, named for the Victorian-styled lamps throughout downtown, got cleaned up when the city hosted Panama –California Exposition in 1915 in beautiful Balboa Park. The naval and tourism industries grew in the 1900s, as did education opportunities at the many universities. Today, San Diego is known for bio-tech, medical research, incredible beaches and recreation.

Times to Visit

San Diego is a year-round outdoor playground with300+ days of sunshine and72 degree average. But beware: May Gray and June Gloom mean coastal fog and cold beach days. September and October are often the most glorious months with warm sunny weather anduncrowded beaches.

Kids Free October means complimentary admission at many local attractions, free meals at restaurants and comp’d amenities and experiences at certain hotels.

Summertime brings outdoor seaside concerts, myriad marathons, horse races, boating events and street festivals featuring craft beer, wine and food, LGBTQ+ Pride events,tacos, crawfish, mariachis and many more.

Downtown lights up during the holiday season with colorful buildings and boat parades. 100,000 lights illuminate Hotel del Coronado and its many stunning Christmas trees.

San Diego Checklist

• Layers of clothing: San Diego can be deceptively chilly so bring a fleece and Uggs in addition to your board shorts and flip flops.

• Ocean-friendly sunscreen: Opt for sun protection without harsh chemicals that pollute the ocean and beach to keep the water pristine and aquatic life safe.

• Passport: Tijuana and the playas of Baja are just a border crossing away so you may want to bring your passport in case you decide to head south for margaritas and surf sessions.

• Furry Family Members: Many of San Diego’s hotels are pet friendly and dog-friendly beaches are scattered around the county, but research the rules as some require leashes during busy summer months.