
11 minute read
Dine
from Marin February 2023
by 270 Media
BY CHRISTINA MUELLER
Dim Sum for Year of the Rabbit
WHAT'S HOT The Year of the Rabbit begins on January 22 according to the Chinese zodiac, and is said to be a year of hope. While the San Francisco dim sum scene has evolved in recent years — there don’t seem to be nearly as many rolling carts — flavors of southern China still abound.
Begoni Bistro Families trek to the edge of Chinatown for the traditional X.L.B. and baked barbecue pork buns, but the playful “tapas” menu includes a doughnut noodle roll (really!) and Peking duck. An allAmerican wine list and popular sweet treats (custard buns, durian puffs) are worth waiting in line for. Don’t miss the Malaysian sponge cake. 615 Jackson St, San Francisco; begoni-bistro.com
City View After what seems like the requisite 15-minute wait for a table, dig in on platters of chewy X.O. pan-fried noodles and snappy garlic string beans. If chicken feet are your thing (and they should be), the ones here are deep-fried and puffy, like the fluffy taro puffs and turnip puffs, all fun foods to look at and eat. Consider yourself warned about the buttery egg yolk buns — they squirt. 662 Commercial St, San Francisco; cityviewdimsum.com
Dragon Beaux Be sure to make a reservation at this Koi Palace spin-off in San Francisco’s Richmond District or be prepared to wait for the rice crepe rolls stuffed with shrimp and black bean sauce spareribs. A steamer of Five Guys Xiao Long Bao is especially colorful and Instagram-worthy, as is a burnished wall with red-hued insets that perfectly showcases a tea pot collection. 5700 Geary Blvd, San Francisco; dragonbeaux.com
Yank Sing With two locations within walking distance of each other in San Francisco’s SoMa neighborhood (the Spear Street location nabbed a 2022 Michelin Bib Gourmand), negating the line may be worth a shot to try one of the 100+ dim sum available, many on carts at the Spear Street location. An extensive menu of vegan and vegetarian dim sum — mushroom dumpling, snow pea shoots dumpling, bean curd rolls, steamed vegetarian rice noodles — complements the more expected siu mai and soup dumplings. 101 Spear St. and 49 Stevenson St, San Francisco; yanksing.com
Riverside Seafood Tucked onto a quiet street in San Francisco’s Parkside neighborhood is a no-fuss dim sum restaurant with big tables and a plentiful dim sum array. The cross-cut salt and pepper spareribs and salt and pepper crab are musts, but you can’t go wrong with the crispy taro duck — it has great flavor and mouthfeel and the same brown mushroom gravy that has been accompanying the dish for years. 1201 Vicente St, San Francisco; 415.759.8828 Scan for more.
Yank Sing
CORTE MADERA
Cafe Verde Californian The all-day cafe offers Neapolitan pizza, Sicilian calzone and a tight menu of pasta, risotto, and salads. Enjoy any of these items inside or out on the patio along with local and international wines and beers. 502 Tamalpais Drive, 415.927.1060; cafeverdecm.net
LARKSPUR
Left Bank Restaurant French This Parisian-style brasserie by Chef Roland Passot has been serving the community for more than two decades. Whether on the patio, bar or main dining room, it’s a fun experience. An all-day menu features seasonal, local and organic ingredients, along with an extensive cocktail menu, beer options, and an expertly-curated wine selection. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331; leftbank.com
Perry’s American Perry’s on Magnolia has the same classic American cuisine, bustling bar and warm service and personality the San Francisco original has always been famous for. Plentiful outdoor dining options — the patio, the front garden or the redwood grove — are in addition to the three cozy indoor dining spaces. It’s bar is a perennial best of the county winner. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.1877; perryssf.com
BB Rustic Bakery Californian The Marin-grown bakery is known and loved the world over: Pope Francis famously requested its flatbread and crostini when he visited the U.S. in 2015. Organic croissants and pastries baked fresh daily and salads, sandwiches, and soups for lunch make Rustic a local staple at the Marin Country Mart or a second Larkspur location on the town’s west side. 2017 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.9900 and 1139 Magnolia Ave; 415.925.1556; rusticbakery.com
MILL VALLEY
Buckeye Roadhouse American Oysters Bingo and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the comfort-food menu items that have made this favorite since the ’30s. The bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. Heated patio seating offers a moments respite with a fresh espresso and breakfast burrito from the weekday Buckeye Joe Coffee Kiosk out front. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com
BB HH
Bungalow 44 American The bustling bar is ideal for savoring a seasonal cocktail or an order of the house’s famous kickin’ fried chicken. The one-dollar happy hour oyster program still operates from 5–6 p.m., Monday–Thursday and the heated outdoor patio is a townhot spot. 44 E Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500; bungalow44.com
Cafe del Soul Californian Healthy options become addictive at this eatery that now has locations in Tam Junction and San Rafael. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh quinoa wrap, you’ll want to return to try the chipotle rice bowl. A casual lunch spot and great for takeout, Cafe del Soul also serves smoothies and pressed juices. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852; cafedelsoul.net
Floodwater Californian Order a handcrafted “Gold Rush” (Old Forester bourbon, local honey, lemon) at the long 20 seat bar and watch the game on 5 huge 4K HD TV’s while noshing on pork belly steamed buns or dive into Shorty’s Tall Reuben. Up the coziness factor in the leather-couched Den as you tuck into a Positano pizza cooked in the wood-fired oven at this spacious Tam Valley/Manzanita Tavern with pool table and shuffleboard. The Patio features multiple fire pits. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.843.4545; floodwatermv.com
HH $
Gravity Tavern American With ingredients suited to reflect modern tastes, American classics like grilled chicken Waldorf salad with pickled grapes, lobster roll with toasted challah and veggie slaw, and a land and sea pasta with house made egg pasta, pork belly and crab, may have also been familiar fare for passengers of the Mt. Tam gravity car for which this saloon was named. Enjoy them on the popular patio. 38 Miller Ave, 415.888.2108; gravitytavern.com
BB HH

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DIG IN

Delectable food awaits
Harmony Chinese A warm, inviting place to enjoy classical and innovative Cantonese fare with the house specialty, hand crafted dim sum. Local favorites include savory Peking duck with steamed tea buns, juicy Shanghai dumplings, and unique bites like minced lamb with radicchio cups. A definite must, the famous signature beef. All menu items also available from Harmony Take Home which has its own entrance. 401 Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300 harmonyrestaurantgroup.com
Hook Fish Co. Seafood The indoor, wood-ceilinged dining room feels like a boat’s galley and the spot’s popular outdoor beer garden adjacent to Mill Valley’s Proof Lab at Tam Junction has 13 taps, but the draw at this counter-service joint is the seafood. The transparent supply chain means you can enjoy the poke, fish and chips or fish tacos secure in the knowledge of exactly where and on what boat your meal came from. 254 Shoreline Hwy; hookfishco.com
BB
Piatti Ristorante and Bar Italian A fireplace lounge and open format concept invites lingering over refreshed menu items such as house made ravioli with lemon cream and citrus gremolata, roasted mushroom pizza with taleggio fonduta and black truffle oil or roasted salmon with artichokes and Calabrian chili in expanded indoor spaces and on the patio with views of Shelter Bay. House made products, such as fresh pastas, sauces, dipping oils and wines from Piatti Provisions mean the same ingredients in the rigatoni Bolognese are now available for home cooks. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525; piatti.com
BB
Playa Mexican With a chef from Mexico City, Playa’s food offers traditional dishes with modern flavors and presentations. A Little Gem salad sparkles with tomatillo dressing and enchiladas shine from a glossy coating of house made black mole and micro greens. The bar highlights exceptional tequilas and mezcals but the el Slushie and house margarita have legions of fans and are perfect for sipping on the large, heated back patio. Weekend lunch is available. 41 Throckmorton Ave, 415.384.8871; playamv.com
BB HH
Shoreline Coffee Shop American Hidden behind Good Earth in Tam Junction, this coffee shop is a vintage diner with a small-town, community feel. The mix of Mexican and traditional breakfast fare hits the comfort food spot, gussied up with organic and local goodies like eggs from Tennessee Valley neighbor, Woolly Egg Ranch. Try them on several popular dishes including Tennessee Valley Toast and Machaca Hash. Rustic bread from Green Gulch Farms, too. 221 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.9085 shorelinecoffeeshop.com
BB $
Tamalpie Italian With views of Mt. Tamalpais from the covered, heated patio, this Cal-Italian spot known for its local sourcing also features two fireplaces and a full bar serving craft cocktails, wine and beer. The difference is in the dough, small batch, house made gluten-free and 48-hour Neapolitan pizza doughs, plus large salads, pastas, and vegan and vegetarian items. The Brussels sprouts are super-crispy and not to be missed. 477 Miller Ave, 415.388.7437; tamalpiepizzeria.com

Watershed Californian Gather ’round the fire pit in front of the restaurant at the Lumber Yard or hang out at the long bar for a pre-dinner glass of wine before sampling one of the many dishes curated to reflect the bounty of Marin. The Stemple Creek Ranch burger and fresh pastas are matched with a bevy of simply prepared, easy to share dishes (like spicy rock cod lettuce cups or lamb riblets) that reflect chef Kyle Swain’s careful sourcing and focus on local flavor. 129 Miller Ave, 415.888.2406; watershed.com
NOVATO
Perry’s American Perry’s on Magnolia has the same classic American cuisine, bustling bar and warm service and personality the San Francisco original has always been famous for. Plentiful outdoor dining options — the patio, the front garden or the redwood grove — are in addition to the three cozy indoor dining spaces. It’s bar is a perennial best of the county winner. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.1877; perryssf.com
BB
Rustic Bakery Californian Organic pastries, breads, salads, and sandwiches are on the menu at this location downtown, including daily seasonal specials. Try the Marin Melt — Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Point Reyes Toma cheeses grilled on honey whole wheat, served with dressed baby greens and crisp apple slices. It’s even better on the patio. 1407 Grant Ave, 415.878.4952; rusticbakery.com
SAN ANSELMO
The Baan Thai Cuisine Thai Known for its mango sticky rice, crispy corn cakes and The Baan Thai salad, new menu items like fresh spring rolls and steamed dumplings and old favorites such as the tom kha soup entice with fresh flavors and just the right amount of sweet heat. The outdoor patio is heated on chilly days and evenings. 726 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, 415.457.9470; baanthaimarin.com
BB
Comforts Cafe American Established in 1986, Comforts has a cozy sit-down cafe, serving breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Their large takeout section offers a wide selection of house made bakery items, seasonal salads, soups, sandwiches and family meals for dinner at home. Besides the famous Chinese chicken salad, other winners are the stuffed pecan-crusted French toast, chicken Okasan (nicknamed “Crack Chicken” by fans), Korean BBQ flank steak and Wor Won Ton soup. Catering services are also available. 335 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, 415.454.9840; comfortscafe.com
BB $
Creekside Pizza & Tap Room American A perennial Best of the County winner $known for their artisan pizzas, hearty sandwiches, flavorful pastas and fresh salads, Creekside offers plentiful gluten-free and vegan options too. Their copper bar with a 40-handle selection of craft beer (including gluten-free beer), plus wine and kombucha on tap makes Creekside a beloved destination for fresh drinks in equal measure 638 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, 415.785.4450; creeksidesa.com
Cucina sa Italian Open for lunch, weekend brunch, and dinner six nights a week for the house’s famous homemade pastas, seasonal salads, and wood-fired pizzas that strike a balance between southern Italy and northern California. Full bar and cocktails are available to go or enjoy a tipple on premise at the heated parklet or inside. 510 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo, 415.454.2942; cucina-sa.com Flour Craft Bakery American The brainchild of pastry chef Heather Hardcastle, this second location (the first location is in San Anselmo) in the Lumber Yard offers not only gluten-free baked goods but fancy toast, seasonal salads, and coffee to be enjoyed at one of the Yard’s shaded picnic tables. 129 Miller Ave, 415.384.8244; flourcraftbakery.com BB BB
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BB
BB
N LEGEND
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$ BrunchBB BB $ HH
HH HH$ Meal under $20
Date Spot N
$ Dogs Welcome
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BB HH
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BB Outdoor Seating $ $ HH
NFull Bar BB
$N NPrivate Party Room $BB HH
HH Grab ’n Go
HH $
Happy Hour
BB Kid-friendlyHH $
N Round Tables BB
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Watch the Game HH
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New Hot Spot $BB
N
Worth the Hype HH