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Up in Smoke

Up in Smoke

TOP DIGS Travel + Leisure — the magazine widely accepted as the authority on just that — has awarded two wine country lodging options top honors. Auberge du Soleil (top) in Rutherford comes in at No. 12 (just under Marin’s Cavallo Point Lodge at No. 11), and Yountville’s Bardessono Hotel and Spa (bottom) grabs the No. 21 spot in T+L’s annual readers’ choice awards for top resorts in the continental United States.

SOMER TEJWANI

Go Barreling

To really gain an understanding of the essentials of winemaking, ditch the tasting room for the barrel room. Here are three places where you can learn what happens after the harvest. S.T.

1Raymond Vineyards (Saint Helena) Enjoy a barrel tasting program that lets you experience the difference between wines still maturing in tightly grained French oak and make side-by-side comparisons with their finished counterparts from earlier vintages. Barrel tastings are available daily. Tours are $30 per person. 707.963.3141, raymondvineyards.com 2 Ladera Vineyards (Angwin) The new barrel tasting experience includes a tour of the 1886 ghost winery (a winery built between 1860 and 1900) and then an in-depth barrel education, wherein you’ll learn what role the different barrel types play in enhancing the overall flavor and structure of wine. After the tour, enjoy tasting four current-release wines. Available daily by appointment. Tours are $45 per person. 707.965.2445, laderavineyards.com 3 Del Dotto Vineyards (St. Helena/Napa) The Estate Tour and Barrel Tasting program in the St. Helena location’s Venetian Cave lets guests taste eight wines directly from the barrel to better appreciate the differences between wines produced in oak from different forests, including side-by-side comparisons. After exiting the caves, enjoy house-made nibbles. Barrel tastings are available daily. Tours are $60 per person. 707.963.2134, deldottovineyards.com

MIX IT UP There’s a new wine-based aperitif on the block. Sonoma’s Jardesca, just launched by Marin-based master mixologist Duggan McDonnell, is a balanced blend of sweet and dry white wines (including Viognier from Alexander Valley) and an eau de vie — double distilled and brightened with 10 different botanicals, among them California bay, pink peppercorn and grapefruit. Drink it chilled, over ice, with a sprig of your herb of choice — mint, basil, lemon verbena or thyme works well. S.T.

Liquid Gold

Olive oil may not be the box-office draw in wine country, but a handful of properties are offering tours and tastings dedicated to it. As in wine tasting, olive oil is evaluated in three steps — the nose, palate and throat — but this type of sampling doesn’t get you tipsy and is open to the whole family. Here are three producers to visit. S.T.

LONG MEADOW RANCH This ranch has some of the oldest olive orchards in Napa; the owners discovered the orchard hidden among taller trees. No appointment is necessary to visit the St. Helena location (a restored 1874 farmhouse) for a flight of the ranch’s estate-grown and organic olive oils. 707.963.4555, longmeadowranch.com

ROUND POND The second generation of the MacDonnell family still owns and operates Round Pond Estate. The Rutherford farm and winery specializes in wines but is known for its olive oil mill experiences. Book an appointment for a guided tour of the estate’s mill and a tasting of olive oils and red wine vinegar blends, along with a selection of breads and cheeses. 888.302.2575, roundpond.com

MCEVOY RANCH Only after buying the 550acre Petaluma property did Nan McEvoy discover it was strictly zoned for agriculture. The philanthropist planted 3,000 Tuscan olive trees, and today the property is one of the country’s largest organic estate olive oil producers. On the recommendation of the ranch’s olive oil consultant, McEvoy imported what’s been called the “Maserati of olive oil mills,” now used as part of the coldprocess production technique. The ranch is a private residence, so tours are limited; for private tours the minimum charge is $500. 707.769.4138, mcevoyranch.com

inspired choices for wine country experiences

Healdsburg. Nestled around a century-old town plaza, surrounded by 5-star restaurants, stylish boutiques, art galleries and tasting rooms…local hospitality meets San Francisco chic in this charming Sonoma wine country town. Start your journey at healdsburg.com

Voted best spa in Sonoma County for 17 years Osmosis is the perfect oneday spa getaway. Experience deep calm within our authentic Japanese gardens on a secluded 5-acre retreat. Rejuvenating cedar bath, expert massage and organic facials. 707.823.8231, Freestone, osmosis.com

Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards, Come and experience one of the iconic pioneers of Chardonnay in the Russian River Valley on 400 beautiful acres with a view of world class croquet courts from our terrace. Tastings and tours are available with reservations Thursday through Monday. 707.237.3489, sonomacutrer.com

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