PALATE

Courageous creatives

Kate Underwood, Food Editor @relishthememory @eat.newzealand

It’s easy to forget that cooking is a deeply personal pursuit. Perhaps the most surprising yet important ingredient required to prepare food for others is courage. If you’ve ever taken the time to cook a meal for someone, you’ll know what I mean. That silent sense of vulnerability that comes when you serve up a bowl of love, sweat, and fears.

For some cooks, chefs, bakers, or pâtissiers, their career trajectory stems from a genuine desire to feed people. It’s a gentle and edible form of generosity.

Over the last twelve months, I’ve witnessed many courageous individuals sharing a piece of themselves with this city. Often in ways less conventional than the standard café or restaurant route.

It feels right to start with undoubtedly one of the most successful small creative businesses in Ōtautahi. Known by many as ‘CBA’, Cakes By Anna has become a permanent part of this city’s tapestry. Anna Worthington and her bespoke no-fuss, always moist, absolutely nofondant cakes were pivotal in the post-quake city revival. Last month she celebrated 10 years in business. An insane feat for a single-handed operation that has helped mark precious moments through thousands of cakes. Kate Grater (nee – Serkin) started The Pierogi Joint in 2014 after missing her comfort food from home. She grew up in Canada with these Eastern European dumplings, thanks to Polish and Ukrainian ex-pats bringing aspects of their culture through food. Kate deeply believes that food is joy, and she gets the biggest high from connecting with people over her dumplings. With a new pierogi machine, she’s building a strong customer base and pops up at various locations and events.

Jaeju is a Korean-inspired food truck owned by Cian Curtin (ex-head chef of Hali Bistro & Bar) and his partner Yebitna Hong. They spent a year in Korea making kimchi, gochujang, and mandu (Korean dumplings) with Yebtina’s mother. Jaeju (Jeju) means skill or craft in Korean, and their current offering is the first step towards their dream of a restaurant. Hunt them out across the city for a saewoo (shrimp) burger and try the kimari – beer-battered seaweed rolls.

Sarah Chin started Gula after finding herself desperately homesick after the first lockdown. She wanted people to know more about Malaysian-inspired flavours and to approach them with an open mind. On Sundays, Sarah is at The Works Market serving durian macarons, iced pandan lattes, and sambal pork pies with butter spiral-laminated pastry – go early; it sells out fast!

Pastry chef Corentin Esquenet from Butter creates exquisite French treats. His commitment to excellence and engaging Instagram presence helps educate and inspire. Having just moved into a new kitchen on Tuam Street, you can experience his warmth and passion first-hand when you collect your pre-ordered tarts from his cute window. What all of these creators do so well is allow us to experience their personal stories through the food they serve. Right now, in Ōtautahi, supporting these brave souls – and their edible endeavours – has never been more delicious.

Pastry chef Courtney Schimanski joined Te Pae Christchurch shortly before opening in 2021. With a passion for baking nurtured by her gran, Courtney studied for her Diploma in Patisserie at ARA Institute of Canterbury before channelling her creativity during roles at The George and Christchurch Casino. With a keen eye for detail, the gifted chef has created a dessert inspired by the braided rivers of Canterbury – a nod to Te Pae’s distinctive flowing façade.

The Stones

SERVES 8–10

Curd 66g butter 46g sugar 24g mascarpone 1 egg 1 yolk 1 lemon, juice and zest 1 gelatine sheet

Compote ¼ of a pineapple 50g mango puree 1 lime Vanilla paste Apple gel 2 green apples 20g sugar 4 fresh basil leaves

Choc crumb 110g sugar 30g water 37g dark chocolate Pinch of sea salt Mousse 215g white chocolate 170g cream 8g gelatine leaf 428g cream Vanilla paste Grey food colouring

Curd Melt butter and sugar. Whisk together eggs, mascarpone, lemon, and zest, then temper with the butter mix. Return to pot and bring to boil. Add softened gelatine. Cool over an ice bath, then pipe into a small stone-shaped mould. (Once set, if you have a spray gun, you can spray it grey.)

Tropical compote Finely dice pineapple, then combine with mango, lime zest, and vanilla paste.

Apple gel Peel, quarter and cook the apple with caster sugar and basil. Blitz until smooth.

Chocolate mousse Boil cream and vanilla paste, and add in softened gelatine. Pour over chocolate and combine; cool to 40°C. Semi-whip cream and fold into the chocolate mixture with a few drops of grey food colouring. Pipe mousse into the big stone-shaped mould and fill the centre with the compote.

Choc crumb Heat sugar and water until 35°C. Add chocolate and salt, then stir quickly. Cool on tray.

Assembly Scatter chocolate crumb in the centre of the plate. Place one large and one small stone on top of the crumb. Pipe apple gel around the stones.

Craving sushi

There’s something pleasing and whimsical about the aesthetic, design, and flavour of delicious and well-constructed sushi. Our Food Editor Kate Underwood has gathered together a collection of places she returns to for a sushi fix that satisfies.

NORI TABLE

3 Garlands Road, Woolston @noritablenz

Have you even been to The Tannery if you haven’t experienced the sushi selection from Nori Table? I have a theory that this is the best cabinet sushi offering in Ōtautahi, which has been proven true on several visits. From full tables to continuous, fresh refilling throughout the day, those who come here know what’s good. For me, it’s all in the details, from that extra sesame seed sprinkle to the curly lettuce tucked into the inari (tofu) pocket and the special ‘dust’ on the fried veggie balls. This place serves sushi that cares. Demonstrated by cardboard takeaway boxes and packet-less ‘help yourself’ ginger and wasabi. On my latest trip, I overheard a woman tell her daughter it was her favourite sushi in the city. You can’t make this stuff up.

SAKIMOTO

119 Worcester Street, Christchurch Central @sakimoto_japanese_bistro

Sakimoto brings life to the quiet hum of Cathedral Junction. You’ll find prawn and avocado sushi with flaming mayo, tempura oyster mushrooms, and a playful take on crispy salad with three dressings – including passionfruit mayonnaise. Open (and busy!) every night, with Uber Eats orders flying out the door, this wine-only BYO Japanese restaurant is damn good. For those daring enough, the grilled eel and egg sushi is great, or the more familiar double salmon sushi. Their generous menu provides options for all. I fell hard for the perfectly jiggly teriyaki tofu and steamed vegetables (a dying art) and the deep-fried salmon skin, moreish with the most rewarding crunch. If you like things raw, don’t let the sashimi pass you by; served with yuzu soy sauce – it’s brilliant!

TOMI

Edgeware Mall, 76 Edgeware Road, St Albans @tomi_japanese

I love it when a restaurant dish surprises and delights. If you’re a salmon fan, do yourself a favour and order the jumbo flame-grilled Toro (belly) salmon sushi. I felt like I cracked it when I dined solo up at the kitchen counter devouring this dish, with a side of edamame and the grilled eggplant with hatcho (or red miso), a dark, more intense style miso. I’ve returned many times for the generous lunchtime offering, struggling to choose between freshly rolled sushi, the pork katsuni set (a crispy pork cutlet with an onion, egg, and sweet soy dashi broth), or the teriyaki chicken bento box. Part of the Edgeware Mall, this neighbourhood go-to bodes an intimate space that feels special yet casual – perfect for a small crew or treating your mum.

KINJI

279B Greers Road, Bryndwr @kinjirestaurant

Located deep in Bryndwr, Kinji’s incognito location is well-known across the city for serving high-quality and delicious Japanese cuisine. Inside the dimly lit space, the menu includes pages of options from Teppan sizzle, hot pots, main dishes such as wagyu beef and all the usual appetisers, including; edamame, tempura, and karaage chicken. I’m not sure if it’s my body’s subconscious need for the iodine found in seaweed, the omega-3s in

top pick

salmon, or that satisfyingly salty soy – but sushi is one food item I deeply crave. The assorted nigiri sushi has become my mustorder here, with its vibrant array of protein carefully draped over pressed pockets of wellseasoned sushi rice. The myriad of toppings includes sweet omelette, topiko (fish roe), groper, octopus, eel, and king prawn, plus two types of salmon, squid, and fresh tuna too. I can’t go past the chawanmushi, a subtle and savoury silken egg custard with chunks of prawn, seaweed, and a few other surprises. Apparently, their initial restaurant opened in 2007 on Colombo Street, but they were forced to abandon the city post-quake. Since moving out to Greers Road, owner and chef Kinji and his team have continued to deliver impeccable Japanese fare. In their own words, they aspire to ‘meet your expectation’, and every time I’ve dined here, they’ve done exactly that.

Live music venue

With live music four nights a week, Boo’s is the perfect location to sit back and listen to local artists perform whilst sipping on a delicious cocktail or whiskey! @boos.bar | boos.bar Story is a small, intimate restaurant with a focus on local wine and seasonal produce and a daily changing set menu. @storychch | storynz.com

PALATE

A NEW ERA

WORDS Joshua Brosnahan PHOTOS Chloe Mundy

Brigittes is an institution with a legacy of providing exceptional coffee, food, and hospitality for almost 50 years. Building a loyal community, Brigittes is wellknown in Merivale and across Ōtautahi.

When it sprung to life in the mid-1970s, the original café had its foundations not far from its current home. A few years later, in the ’90s, a move saw the café take root in the locale we know today. In the early part of this century, the business was sold by founder Brigitte to an employee.

Fast forward to today, and Brigittes is still standing strong under the helm of new ownership, thanks to co-owners Jeremy Stevens, Michael Rowland-Jones, and Frank Van Schaijik. Jeremy is part of the Aikmans Group, and Michael is the executive chef. You will have likely experienced his expertly-crafted dishes at hot dining spots around the city.

Brigittes is still a place one can meet with workmates, spend a Sunday morning with friends, or simply re-energise with a caffeine hit while on the go. The ethos on site is still very much centred around the patron with unparalleled service and excellent fare.

Something even the most regular of customers may not be aware of is the speciality coffee blend that the roasters, Ozone, has supplied the café for well over a decade – a signature blend with notes of dark chocolate, caramel, citrus cherry, and roasted nut. It’s one of only three companies in New Zealand that have the privilege. It is part of a long connection with the brand, with the current CEO of Ozone, Craig Macfarlane, tamping his very first espresso at Brigittes.

Ensuring Brigittes stays part of the city’s hospitality scene for the next 50 years, Jeremy and Michael have some planned changes on the horizon. With a revamp and evening dining on the cards to make the most of the café’s setting.

“We’ll definitely be embracing more of a wine bar feel in the evenings. We’re working towards major renovations, both inside and out. We’ll be enhancing the courtyard space to make the most of the sun.”

According to Michael, the menu has been tweaked and improved rather than radically altered. There’s a real sense of keeping the essence of the café true to its reputation rather than trend-hopping or gimmicky offers.

“It’s the same Brigittes, just improved. We are here, and we’re breathing new life into the café you know and love.”

This respect for tradition and the place the café has held in the local community was mirrored in the honouring of its namesake, Brigitte, with her recent passing.

Friends, family, and former colleagues celebrated Brigitte’s life with a wake on-site at the café last month. Jeremy mentions that many patrons often come in with wonderful stories about her, and this will forever be welcomed.

With its past firmly shaping its future, the legacy of Brigittes is sure to continue.

brigittes.co.nz

PALATE

Setting the standard

The founder of Black Origin brought his expertise to New Zealand in 2015 when he began raising a small herd of Wagyu cattle on a local farm in Lincoln, Canterbury.

He had years of experience with the luxury product gained in his hometown of Kobe, Japan, and had the goal of producing highquality Wagyu beef in New Zealand using time-honoured, traditional techniques.

His experience in the field allowed him to stay true to traditional Japanese methods at every step of the production process. This ancient art, with the help of New Zealand’s enviable natural resources, resulted in top-quality meat.

The Wagyu rearing process has been refined over hundreds of years in Japan, resulting in specific ways of raising and finishing the cattle. The traditional method of Wagyu processing also differs from the processing of common beef cows in New Zealand. Traditional Wagyu butchering respects every part of the animal, resulting in more cuts of meat and less wastage. An example of this is the intercostal cut – perceived as waste by New Zealand standards, but utilised by Black Origin as a premium product.

To achieve the quality of marbling that true Wagyu is famous for, the cattle must be fed a special grain diet and be raised in very specific conditions.

Japanese techniques brought to New Zealand for the first time include feeding cattle a specialised grain diet to increase marbling within the muscles, and introducing state-of-the-art barns commonly used in Japan. One of the main challenges that Black Origin faced with this product was educating farmers and consumers about grain-fed protein. While grain feeding is very common in the rest of the world, little was known about it in New Zealand.

This adherence to tradition paid off when Black Origin achieved its first 8–9 Beef Marble Score. The BMS score is a standard of measurement used in Australia to score the amount of marbling in beef, which directly correlates to the flavour and tenderness when it is cooked. The scale ranges from BMS 3 (low marbling) to BMS 12 (incredibly dense marbling). BMS 8–9 is the highest marble score ever produced in New Zealand, and was a very momentous milestone to reach.

Ongoing success is gauged by the continual demand for Black Origin Wagyu, and currently, there isn’t enough supply to keep up with demand. Sales go to high-end restaurants and distributors around New Zealand, including supermarkets, independent butcheries, and the competitive BBQ community.

As our society shifts towards ever more mindful consumption methods, Black Origin has found its place as the most premium New Zealand-produced Wagyu in the market.

Wish to try Black Origin’s offerings yourself? Conveniently you can purchase the products and have them delivered through Black Origin’s website. Tussock Hill is also hosting a four course meal with wine pairings on 18 November – you can buy tickets through the Tussock Hill website.

For more on Black Origin, read the full interview on our website.

IN DOUGH WE TRUST

LAYERS

The Village Bakehouse in the Waimari Road shops is a bakery of old with a community feel. While the pies are a big drawcard, do not go past the pastries, like the pain au chocolat. Delicate layers, a little moister than a croissant, with two bars of chocolate pierced through the middle. Perfect with your morning espresso. Say hello to Thierry and the team! villagebakehouse.co.nz

FILL ME UP

On Ferry Road, beyond an unassuming shopfront, you’ll find Claude’s Kitchen. With the motto, ‘homemade happiness’, you really feel it once walking in the door. Just great café food and truly good coffee – and a sweet treat that makes this month’s morsel section – a brioche doughnut. Light and fluffy, with a perfect dusting of cinnamon sugar, it’s filled with custard cream and lemon curd. Delish.

@claudeskitchen390ferryroad

STICKY BUNS

On Southwark Street in the CBD is Tom’s. This hole-in-the-wall with diner-style seating serves up some great grub. One treat of note is the pink buns, deliciously soft brioche buns stuffed with jam and topped with iconic pink icing. They surpass anything you’ve ever had in your lunch box. Their sandwiches are also well worth a try – we’re big fans here at Avenues.

@toms_southwarkst

CANAPÉ THE DAY

Celebrate our region being on show and be the favourite guest when you turn up with this Crisp and Vale box – Show Case. Pictured is The Picnic, a delightful collection of canapés perfect for any event or occasion: a housewarming, your Race Day nibbles, a trip to the beach, an engagement, and the list goes on. You can also build a bespoke Show Case by choosing from a range online. This is fancy fare without the fuss, and it’s sure to step up your ‘bring a plate’ game. crispandvale.co.nz

A scoop of fun

WORDS andPHOTOS Liam Stretch

With two gelato cafés in central Christchurch, Rollickin is famous for its desserts and has developed a reputation for its unique and whimsical flavours.

But how do they come up with these amazing concoctions? Avenues had a chat with the creators behind these creamy treats.

The team at Rollickin is passionate about where their product comes from, and they only use high-end ingredients and cleanlabel products.

Using fantastic ingredients (seven of which are secret), the chefs whip up fresh gelato each day, churning creamy organic milk into the perfect density. With less air than ice cream, Rollickin’s gelato has a richer flavour. This velvety mix is then introduced to layers of house-made inclusions, like gingerbread, shortbread, vanilla sponge, fudge sauce, berry compote, and even for a recent special in honour of QE2, scone! It’s quite a science to create inclusions that taste great, work in with the creamy gelato, and don’t freeze into hard lumps or turn icy.

On top of serving the masses old favourites like Yogi Bear and Salty Caramel, the team is constantly innovating with seasonal and special event whips and baked goods. The key to coming up with fantastical flavours is engaging with the ‘Ōtautahi whānau’ and having a lot of fun. Often it can be just a passing customer shoulder-tapping staff to suggest a new option, a comment left on their chalkboard, or even a creation in the name of happenings in our city, like in support of Showbiz’s recent performance of Matilda the Musical, Trunchbull’s Choccy Cake. The team meets weekly to discuss customer feedback and keep up-to-date with what is happening in the local community and businesses.

Alongside the creamy stuff, the crew brew C4 coffee and the cabinet is full of baked goods that constantly evolve – some even make their way into the gelato! The Gerry Brownie is a long-time favourite and there are newer creations like Sticky Date Pudding (the butterscotch sauce is to die for!) and a summer menu on its way.

The team is already concocting kooky Christmas flavours and new summer favourites. Their current seasonal special is Brownie Points, the best bits of Gerry Brownie, creamy Vanilla Bod gelato, and loaded with berry sauciness. Pop in and say hello!