P. 8 Plating Fig Newtons
March 28, 2018 | 34st.com
P. 20 Best of Baltimore Ave
8 1 0 2 G SPRIN
g n i din e d i gu
DINING
GUIDE MARCH 28, 2018
TABLE OF CONTENTS 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 13 14 15 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
Happy Hour Yeeroh Mad Rex Urban Brewery Fig Newtons Fig Newtons cont'd Classy 21 Ochatto Hungry Pigeon Suraya Best Candy Shop Root Stock Baltimore Ave Keen Lucky's Mile's Table El Rey Bernie's WM Mulherin Mason Jars The Love The Love cont'd Oloroso Meal Prep
Price Range Per Dish $ 5-9 dollars $$$ 15-20 dollars $$ 10-15 dollars $$$$ 20+ dollars 2
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DINING GUIDE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR I have a complicated love affair with cooking. My sophomore year, I lived in Harrison and, attempting to be crafty, I tried to make scrambled eggs in the microwave. That morning, my roommate awoke to the POP of my eggs exploding, bits of yolk and egg white flying out and coating the plastic of her microwave. When I cautiously opened the microwave, its inside looked like a Salvador Dali painting; I’ve never really lived that incident down. Truthfully, I don’t cook a lot. To compensate, I’ve become well acquainted with the Philly food scene. Dining out is one of those little ways we can treat ourselves after a hard week. There’s something intimate, almost magnetic, about the luxury of buying a meal for yourself. And honestly, does anyone in your life make you feel as excited as when you see the waiter gliding towards you with your food? But, as I grow older and more fiscally responsible, I recognize the benefits of learning to cook. After a yearlong hiatus, I’ve been trying my hand at it again, this time without the threat of setting off the fire alarms. There is, admittedly, something quite special about sitting down to a meal and being able to say “Hey, I made this, from scratch. And I probably won’t die if I eat it.” For anyone who empathizes with that, Dining Guide also includes a variety of no–fuss, delicious recipes for the busy college student. From fast food to five–star restaurant and from homemade to homegrown, there’s a page for every price point and culinary expertise in this edition of our Dining Guide. The weather is finally clearing up—take advantage of this chance to grab a meal, or drinks, with some friends. But, hey, if you don’t want to—we won’t judge. When it comes to food, who really wants to share anyways? We hear all the time that our undergraduate years are the best of our life. I’m not sure I’m convinced, but here’s one thing I’m sure of: if we’re here, we might as well make it tasty. Much love, Sabrina Qiao
Sabrina Qiao, Special Features Editor Nick Joyner, Editor–in–Chief Remi Lederman, Managing Editor Angela Huang, Audience Engagement Director Annabelle Williams, Assignments Editor Autumn Powell, Media Director Ha Tran, Photo Editor Danny Rubin, Video Editor Lea Eisenstein, Copy Director Chris Muracca, Print Director Conributing Writers: Naomi Elegant Brittany Levy Tamara Gelband Morgan Potts Jacob Winick Sophie Xi Michelle Perreira Angie Lin Zoe Albano-Oritt Dalton DeStefano Isabella Fertel Lily Snider Steph Barron Sharon Christner Eliana Dofte Daniel Bulpitt Julia Bell Cat Dragoi Elizabeth Lemieux
Design Editors: Lucy Ferry, Gillian Diebold, Ben Zhao, Christine Lam, Alana Shukovsky, Morgan McKeever, Teagan Aguirre, Joy Lee, Katie Waltman Staff Photographers: Dayz Terry, Virginia Rodowsky, Christina Piasecki, Bill He, Avalon Morrell, Emma Boey, David Zhou, Reese Berman Video Staff: Megan Kyne, Jean Chapiro, Anab Aidid, Abdul Sohu Copy Editors: Kira Horowitz, Kate Poole, Anna Waldzinska, Serena Miniter, Sarah Poss, Amber Auslander, Kimberly Batista, Riley Wagner, Morgan Potts Sofia Price, Analytics Editor Cole Bauer, Senior Marketing Associate Marketing Associates: Lauren Donato, Chae Hahn, Brittany Levy, McKay Norton, Hanniel Dizon, Carly Shoulberg, Merry Gu, Paige Fishman Contacting 34th Street Magazine: If you have questions, comments, complaints or letters to the editor, email Nick Joyner, Editor–in–Chief, at joyner@dailypennsylvanian.com. You can also call us at (215) 422–4640. www.34st.om ©2018 34th Street Magazine, The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc. No part may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express, written consent of the editors (but I bet we will give you the a–okay.) All rights reserved. 34th Street Magazine is published by The Daily Pennsylvanian, Inc., 4015 Walnut St., Philadelphia, Pa., 19104, every Wednesday.
Sign up through May 31st to take advantage of the early bird discount. Sign up for a dining plan at campusexpress.upenn.edu
I decided to stay on the dining plan mainly because of the convenience. I like the ability to go directly from class to a cooked meal and be out within 15 minutes‌. [and] you don't have to do the dishes afterwards!
Unique dining locations
5% Dining Dollar$ discount
Houston Market top-to-bottom renovation, re-opening Fall 2018
Options for special dietary needs: kosher, halal, vegetarian, vegan, food allergies, and more
- Kyle H. C ‘17
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DINING GUIDE
Happy Hour Specials For Your Next Weekday Bar Crawl It's always five o'clock somewhere
Megan Kyne | Photographer
Tl;dr: Like going abroad as a second semester senior
Jacob Winick
Penn is tough and sometimes we all need a break. Luckily, you’re never too far away from a trendy bar. So, let’s take a look at some of the best happy hours around.
Location: 3408 Sansom Street Hours Mon–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–2:00 a.m. Price: $4 beers and $5 Baileys hot chocolate
City Tap House Let’s start on campus. If you’re looking to make your evening review session a little more joyful, head to City Tap House between 5 and 7 p.m. on weekdays. Their happy hour menu offers discounted beers and my personal favorite: sparkling sangria, made with champagne and blood orange. The drink is incredibly sweet—something resembling a highbrow fruit punch. Get a couple glasses, or maybe a pitcher, and kick back and grind through the review.
Tl;dr: Brews and exam reviews, with sangria thrown in. Location: 3925 Walnut Street Hours Mon–Fri: 11:30 a.m.–12:00 a.m. Sat–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–12:00 a.m. Price: $4 Beers, $5 Bites, $6 Sparkling Sangria
Alma de Cuba 4
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New Deck Tavern
If you wish you had studied abroad in Dublin, New Deck Tavern is a good choice. The brick–walled bar is littered with Irish flags and serves a mean Baileys hot chocolate. It might be covered in whipped cream, but it packs a punch. If that’s not enough, consider that most of the bartenders have Irish accents,which makes their happy hours feel that much more authentic.
TL;DR: Rowdy atmosphere with interesting cocktail choices. Location: 1511 Locust Street
Misconduct Tavern
In case you’re hoping to get off campus, you can’t go wrong with Misconduct Tavern. The 19th–century ship– themed bar has plenty of flat screen TVs and overall happy vibes. The bar has a wide selection of beers on tap, but if you’re looking for a real treat, try their house favorite Moscow Mule, which offers a nice balance of ginger and lime. It’s guaranteed to make you forget about any lingering work. Happy hour is weekdays from 4:30 to 7 p.m.
And if you’re in the mood to have a really good time, let me introduce you to my new favorite spot: Alma de Cuba. Usually known for its Cuban food, Alma de Cuba serves the best mojito ever crafted by man. Served with mint leaves and a sugar cane, the mojito is as tasty as it is strong. If you’re feeling extra bold, ask for a second stick of sugar cane. You won't be able to resist ordering another glass. So, drop what you’re doing and go visit a small piece of Cuban paradise tucked away on picturesque 15th and Walnut.
Hours: Mon–Sun: 11:30 a.m.–2:00 a.m. Price: $7 cocktails TL;DR: A little piece of Cuba, mojitos and all. Location: 1623 Walnut Street Hours: Mon–Thurs: 4:00 p.m.– 11:00 p.m. Fri–Sat: 4:00 p.m.–12:00 a.m. Sun: 4:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m. Price: $6 drinks
Yeeroh:
DINING GUIDE
The New Greek Hero On The Block Easy, breezy, tzatziki Lily Snider
Right on the corner of South and Broad, six bold block letters in all–white shine against a gray brick background: YEEROH. At first glance the name is odd to look at, but it’s not meant to be seen; it’s meant to be heard. Our waitress explains that “Yeeroh” is the phonetic pronunciation of an iconic Greek cuisine, the gyro. The food is obviously the centerpiece, but what really makes Yeeroh appealing is the laid–back, authentic environment it provides. Started by Yianni Degermentzidis just this past September, the menu pays homage to his family’s Greek roots and his smart sense for restauranteering. The waitresses have kind eyes—they independently add the feta sticks to the order because they know first– timers shouldn’t leave without trying them—and the food comes out to the table with no wait. During a slow hour, a chef sits across from a customer, and they share a meal and bouts of laughter. Dim sunlight pushes through the floor– to–ceiling windows at the front of the store, illuminating both the exposed and white–painted brick walls. The air is communal and relaxing, the food a warm and welcome break from a long day. The place embodies the true cultural purpose of mealtime. Though the traditional sandwich is the namesake of the restaurant, their menu is expansive and mouthwateringly customizable. It has three
pre–arranged salads and a make–your–own option, a pita platter appetizer, three different types of French fries (one of which is zucchini fries, swoon), and the Greek answer to mozzarella sticks and marinara: feta sticks and house–made jam. These are important. The menu also includes three homemade Greek desserts. The main course is laid out in delectable steps. First, you select the form of meal you would like, choosing from the classic sandwich option or the option to get a tray. Luckily, the tray still comes with pita on the side—and you do not want to miss the pita. Step two is choosing a spread: either tzatziki, spicy feta, hummus, or garlic eggplant. Step three is choosing a meat (or grilled veggies drizzled in balsamic glaze), and step four is picking up to five toppings. Finally, you choose your French fry preference. All this is included in the $8.50 price of a sandwich, or the $12 price of a tray, which you should be sharing with someone anyway—the portions are quite generous. If this isn’t enough for you— or conversely, if the wealth of options is overwhelming—the restaurant boasts five specialty sandwich options on the huge chalkboards behind the counter. Some are inspired by different regions of Greece, others are inspired by pure gluttony. Take The Sinner, for example: grilled pita stuffed with pork, lamb, and chicken gyro, tzatziki, ketchup, and mustard,
and French fries. That’s roughly 75% of the menu in one succulent sandwich. Though these options occasionally rotate, we hope this particular morsel survives the test of time. Yeeroh is available for dine– in, pick–up, and delivery to certain locations. Go there once, and we’re sure you’ll be back faster than you can accurately pronounce gyro.
Christina Piasecki | Photographer
TL;DR: Deliciously customizable sandwiches Location: 1412 South Street Hours Mon–Thurs; Sun: 11:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. Fri–Sat: 11:00 a.m.–3:00 a.m. Price: $
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DINING GUIDE
Mad Rex: Dining at the End of the World Who knew the end of the world would come with carrot–flavored hummus?
Brittany Levy
Ananya Chandra | Photographer
Civilization has just collapsed. You are survivors of a global catastrophe, and now you're dining at Mad Rex, the world’s first post–apocalyptic restaurant, which happens to be conveniently located right here in Philadelphia. If this is what the Rapture is like, bring on the apocalypse! I knew I was at the right place when I saw a boom truck glowing in the middle of Columbus Boulevard, reminiscent of a Mad Max set piece. As I entered the restaurant, I was greeted by a fog machine emitting smoke, and
the fuselage of a jet crashing through the roof. The commitment to the theme continued, and I admired the post– apocalyptic mannequins, reading their corresponding “war hero” stories. As one of the owners, Michael Johnigean, put it, “How many times do you look around a restaurant and people are on their phones, lost in the cyber world? I wanted to create something where they can be lost in another world of entertainment.” Mad Rex is not only the world’s first post–apocalyptic
restaurant, but it’s also the first virtual reality–equipped restaurant in the country. You can use the open VR lounge for $1/minute or the closed–off VR chamber for $2/minute, all while sipping on drinks served from Camebak bags made to look like IVs. The VR menu includes everything from skydiving to watching the sunrise on a beach to sitting front–row at a live sports game to overcoming fears through exposure therapy techniques. But the Mad Rex experience is not only out of this
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civilized world—the food and drinks are out of this actual world. The meal started off with complementary carrot–flavored hummus and pita—Mad Rex’s version of a free bread service. Then, you choose between dishes cooked in the kitchen or on a black lava tray, which is part of the “Survivor Menu.” Similar to a hibachi package, the “Survivor Menu” allows you to pick your own protein and any other side dishes, such as vegetables or rice, to grill on the black rock burner, giving everything a delicious, smoky finish. On the happy hour side of things, the drinks menu features crowd favorites infused with an apocalyptic– twist: “The Gryphon,” a light up fishbowl drink, the “Flame Thrower,” which comes out with a flaming lime on top, and the “Smoking Gun Shot,”
a shot that emerges from a smoky cage. As a bonus, the drinks are guaranteed to make a positive impression on both your taste buds and your Snapchat story. With its post–apocalyptic theme, virtual reality lounges, and delicious menu, Mad Rex provides a full dining experience, living up to its namesake (the “Rex” stands for “Restaurant Entertainment Xperience”). It’s great for any type of function, with large tables that comfortably seat ten, and the ability to match almost any budget, providing food, access to the VR lounge, a photographer, and a live DJ for special group events. Technically, I finished my dining experience at Mad Rex as a “survivor,” but I’d like to think that I not only survived, but also thrived.
TL;DR: Post apocalypse, Mad Rex has it all—from delicious food, to Instagram–worthy drinks, to cool virtual reality experiences. Location: 1000 Frankford Ave Suite 1 Hours Mon–Thurs: 4 p.m.–12 a.m. Fri: 4 p.m.–2 a.m. Sat: 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Sun: 11 a.m.–12 a.m. Price: $$
www.ConstellarCorporation.com | Emily@constellarcorporation.com | 215.387.2712 ext. 101 6
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DINING GUIDE
Urban Brewing Village Company On a Thursday night, there’s a conglomeration of people around: college kids, families with baby strollers, dinner dates, and groups of friends reuniting over beers. My friend and I walk in and come eye– to–eye with treasure chest piled full of board games. We look at each other and smile—here it is, Urban Village Brewing Company, a true neighborhood brewery. A little less than a year ago, Dave Goldman, Tom Rivelli, and Chris Davis opened their new brewpub in the newly christened Schmidt Common, located in Fishtown. “How can we make our pizza different?” was their guiding question, and Urban Village Brewing Company delivered that with a twist, naturally leavened dough and innovative brewing techniques included. The interior has a strong industrial design, with wooden countertops, a central bar, mounted televisions, and an outdoor fit pit and seating area. The menu is jammed full of beer flights, IPAs, seasonal cocktails,
artisanal pizzas, and specialty fries. Technically, it’s “Trivia Thursdays,” with $3 beers and $5 snacks from 9:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. We’re a little early for the specials, but around us, friends and family are already preparing, fingers reaching for the can of miniature pencils stationed on the table, varying pizza sizes and styles between them. We take our server’s suggestions, and my friend orders the “gobstopper” beer, a seasonal addition to the menu that adds a sweet tang to our carb–filled meal. I get the kombucha–infused “boiler” cocktail, a pale pink concoction that leaves me feeling healthy (and slightly buzzed) after just one. Fair warning, it packs a punch, not just in alcohol content, but also in a sour aftertaste. As for food, we start off with the creamy, whipped ricotta slathered on toasted sourdough bread, doused with roasted butternut squash and spiced walnuts for flavor. We marvel at the creamy decadence of the ricotta, but we almost forget about that
TL;DR: Thursdays are for beer and trivia at this carby gastro–pub
Made with frothy love Sabrina Qiao
Virginia Rodowsky | Photographer
ten had it been brunch time: perhaps the Val pizza, topped off with scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, and hollandaise sauce? Or, if we wanted something heavier, maybe the cream chip beef, made from pastrami and farm eggs? And, of course, going to a brewery for brunch would warrant a “beermosa,” or maybe two. Menu and atmosphere aside, here’s what makes Urban Village Brewing Company really unique: we get to watch the brewing process itself. Right behind where we sit is the brewery, giving us a sneak peak into the science behind beer, from grain mill to brite tank, a two–week process of frothy love from the
when the “Tara” comes out. “This is the mushroom pizza for people who don’t like mushroom,” my friend solemnly declared in between bites. I have to agree; it’s the perfect ratio of flaky crust to greasy—but delicious—topping. I don’t even like mushrooms, but here they add the perfect complement to the tomato sauce; we momentarily forget we’re eating vegetables. Our only regret of the night is that we’re too full to order a side of beer fries drizzled with melted manchego beer cheese, or, better yet, the “mac–n–beer cheese.” Before we leave, we gaze at the menu and fantasize about what we would have got
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LUNCH Mon – Fri: 11:30am – 3:00pm Sat – Sun: 12:00pm – 3:00pm
Location: 1001 N 2nd Street
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Hours: Mon–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m.
DINNER Mon – Sat: 4:30pm – 10:00pm Sun: 4:30pm – 9:00pm
Price: $$
owners. Rivelli takes us on a tour backstage, explaining to us how hops–the green, cone– shaped flowers of the female hop plant—are slowly boiled into the beer to enhance flavor, giving your favorite IPA its signature aroma. For the beer purists out there, know that Urban Brewing Village Company uses brite tanks, not kegs, to preserve the integrity of the flavor; the dedication to their craft starts from the brewing process and ends in the cold pint placed in front of you. So, if (when!) the Eagles make it to the Superbowl again, there’s a new place in the neighborhood to watch the game.
11:30am – 10:00pm
HAPPY HOUR Mon – Fri: 4:30pm – 6:30pm Sat – Sun: 9:00pm – 11:00pm (drink specials only) $4 Appetizers (excluding certain dishes) $4 Drafts & Well Drinks $5 Wines & Sake Bombs $6 Specialty Cocktails $1 off all other alcoholic drinks M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E
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DINING GUIDE
Fig Newtons Never Looked This Sexy How to waste your youth plating food from CVS Julia Bell
Walk through the CVS aisles, and you’ll feel the pull toward one of the colorful packaged foods. Maybe toward the pastels of the Jordan almonds, or the uniform Goldfish crackers, or the plasticine, seductive candy aisle. Maybe you’re just hungry—or maybe you’ll be drawn in and driven to create. Personally, my muse is the bright yellow package, the one that says Fig Newtons. When opening a new box, I savor the rip of the microseal. It’s like opening a notebook for the first time, when all the pages are blank. With this guide, you can plate anything from CVS aesthetically. Plating adds an ever– deepening richness to your life, like the umami flavor of the pepperonis in Lunchable pizzas. To demonstrate how to plate Fig Newtons, I’ve prepared a three–course meal that demonstrates many of the basics. Follow these tips to avoid disgrace.
Julia Bell | Photographer
Course one: amuse–bouche An amuse bouche is a single, bite–sized starter (like a Bagel Bite) to tickle the palate before the main course. This amuse bouche is a Fig Newton with a Cool Whip quenelle, an apple wedge, and sprinkle of fruit punch Lifesaver dust. Use the rule of thirds to determine where to place the focal point of your dish. Stark white dishes provide a background that doesn’t distract from the food. They also denote minimalism, which can be achieved through serif fonts and only writing Yelp reviews in haiku. I sourced this plate from my roommate Ariana, who studied abroad in Sweden last semester and bought it from a Scandinavian store called Ikea.
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TL;DR: Fig Newtons … but then make it fashion. Price: $3.19 (Fig Newtons) + $7.99 (imitation gold leaf) + $1.24 (Cool Whip) + $0.00 (basil stolen from subletter) + $0.00 (Extra Dark Snack Pack and Oreos donated by photographer Virginia Rodowsky) + $1.49 (LifeSaver candies) + $? (produce not purchased from CVS but used as a pedantic device, receipt lost and amount not recorded) = $13.91
DINING GUIDE
Course two: entree For the main course, I paired tender, pan–seared Fig Newtons on top of crunchy rice snaps. They’re served here with caramelized figs and a snap pea puree. I added sliced radishes and foraged basil leaves for texture. Calling food “foraged” adds a level of authenticity and ruggedness to the dish. Describing something as “artisanal” is overplayed, as is “bespoke,” which has been corporatized. “Foraged” is safe. If you didn’t rip it off a tree, can you really call it your own? On the plate, the pea puree is the bold mistress—a saucy wink of color and delight. Contrasting colors—the subtle reds of the radish and figs opposing the green pea and basil—also make the plate more cohesive.
Course three: dessert Dessert is an updated classic: chocolate–dipped Fig Newtons sprinkled with flaked gold leaf, served on a bed of crushed Oreo soil. It’s plated with dipped strawberries and a dash of Extra Dark Snack Pack. I used gold leaf here to maintain the appearance of wealth and exclusivity. Gold denotes high class, which is why I write all my class notes on the back of Ferrero Rocher wrappers. Casually name–dropping celebrities with phrases like, “I was recently on the phone with Nabisco customer service,” also helps. Gold flakes should be applied to foods with large, sterilized medical tweezers. If none are available, feel free to use a dollhouse salt shaker. Using industry terms is very important when plating. If you ever do something as barbaric as describe a cheesecake as “soft” or “sweet,” I will lose it. If you describe cheesecake as having the texture of (FOR EXAMPLE!) satiny chamois, the doors of Yelp Elite will swing open for you. I learned plating language from my internship last summer at Lunchables, and I’ll share a few industry secrets. Some words to keep in mind: soil (noun): the crunchy undertexture of a dish mouthfeel (noun): the sensations food produces in the mouth microplaned (adj.): to describe a very thin shred. E.g. "Microplaned Hot Cheetos topped the spaghetti bolognese." quenelle (noun): in desserts—a single, decorative scoop. Typically ice cream, sorbet, creme fraiche, Yoplait, etc. soigne (adj.): well–dressed, elegant pottage (noun): a very thick stew. E.g. "The addition of Double Stuf Oreos turned the Extra Dark Snack Pack into a pottage." tuile (noun): an arced baked wafer (for instance, an aged Pringle) Armed with these tips, the support of your local Pinterest moms, and Lunchable Waffle Dunkers, you will find success while plating even the cheapest CVS purchases. (Sorry I referenced Lunchables so much in this article. I’m trying to get them to sponsor me.) M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E
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DINING GUIDE
The Classy 21st Birthday Celebration A night out even your parents would approve of
Naomi Elegant
Dayz Terry | Photographer
Today, you’re 21. And you want to celebrate. So, you decide to round up your friends or maybe a love interest for your first legal night out. You’re thinking calm and classy—you want to get drunk, but with good food, drinks, and ambience. For dinner, decide on Porta, a new Neapolitan place renowned for its wood–fired pizzas and cocktails. After that, drinks at 1 Tippling Place for craft cocktails and vintage decor. Then, maybe you’ll try to sneak into a speakeasy like the Ranstead Room across the street. If you’re with friends, weave through the bustle of Porta to snag one of the long wooden bench tables sprinkled with tea lights, where Edison bulb string lights sway overhead and floor– to–ceiling mirrors lean against exposed brick. If you’re with a date, find the mezzanine table for two with the best view of the marble bar and wood–fire oven below. The restaurant, occupying the cavernous yet cordoned–off space that it does, feels a little like the way Daisy described Gatsby’s parties—to paraphrase, they’re all the more intimate for being so large. The waitress comes with smiles and menus. Linger on the cocktails, because you’re facing the most important question of
the night: what to (legally) drink first? Perhaps Frabasile, which comes in a coupe glass, the kind they served champagne in before flutes came into fashion. Pale liquid, the tint of lemonade, swells in the shallow roundness, and a large basil leaf drapes across its surface. You take your first sip: sweet basil morphs slowly into tart lemon, all of it underscored by the kick of vodka. Or maybe you try the Venetian Spritz, whose three classic ingredients—Aperol, prosecco, and soda water—come together in a decadent, iced amber cocktail, redolent of the canals and nooks of Venice. To eat, start off with a dish of pan–roasted octopus, fingerling potatoes, and fennel, and another dish of goat’s milk ricotta, roasted grapes, and charred bread. The octopus tentacles come whole, crisp, and purplish–red, suction cups beckoning. The meat is chewy and succulent. Your less adventurous friends may not be as excited about this dish, but it’s one of the most popular ones, the waitress assures them. While you wait for your next courses, order your second cocktail (it is your birthday, after all). If you’re a whiskey person, try the Old Blue (which is actually pink). With its mix of bourbon,
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lemon, vanilla, and blueberry, it has the punch of a whiskey sour, “but crazy,” as one of your friends eloquently puts it. It comes with three plump blueberries skewered like olives and a sprig of mint. Indulge yourself and order the Delano, a dish of stout–braised short rib on a bed of pillowy polenta. The tender meat falls off the bone and is garnished with cipollini onions, braised in balsamic, and oil. Finally, the pizza. “Is pizza classy?” someone hesitatingly asks. “If it’s wood–fired, yeah,” another answers with authority. The debate is settled, and your pie arrives, sweltering with melting cheese and brick oven heat. The pizza is glistening with tomato and soppressata, their deep reds broken up by the brilliant whites of ricotta and mozzarella– both housemade. Take a bite. It transports you. Let sauce dribble down your chin as you eat because the pizza is so good you’ve forgotten you wanted this to be a classy night. Even those few unholies out there who don’t like to eat the crust will be defied by this one, which toes the line between chewy and crispy, reaching new gastronomical heights. Now, dessert. The panettone sticky toffee pudding, a glorious melding of a beloved Italian
pastry, reserved for celebrations, and a diabetes–inducing British dessert, is a must. The pudding comes in a small pool of date caramel, with which it is also soaked, and dolloped with cream. It melts in your mouth in the most literal and least figurative possible sense of that overused phrase. After dinner, it’s time to continue the revelry. Head to 1 Tippling Place, a little bar squeezed between two buildings off 20th and Chestnut, so hidden that you accidentally walk past it the first time. But then you see the discreet dark blue plaque on the wall outside with “1 Tippling Place” on it like a street sign. Spotting the cute bartender, take a seat on one of the wooden barstools. He pours you water and hands you drink menus.
Peruse the list of craft cocktails with ingredients like brown butter washed gin and fig jam, and gape at the gleaming collection of bottles—a lot of whiskey—in the shelves in front of you. Settle on the Tatanka, a cozy mix of vodka, apple cider, and apple bitters, with dashes of lemon and nutmeg. Chat with the bartender, the warmth of the drink washing over you. After 1 Tippling Place, try to sneak your way into the Ranstead Room, the speakeasy across the street. Weave through a back alley to find the hidden bar, put your name on the list, and hope for the best. Head back to the first bar while you wait for a phone call from the speakeasy letting you know a table’s opened up for your party. Don’t worry, they’ll call. It is your birthday, after all.
TL;DR: Planning your first (legal) night out: Porta for dinner, 1 Tippling Place and ranstead room for drinks. LocationS Porta: 1216 Chestnut Street 1 Tippling Place: 2006 Chestnut Street Ranstead Room: 2013 Ranstead Street Price: $$$–$$$$
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DINING GUIDE
Get Hot, Heavy, and a Little Messy at Ochatto Hot Pot
Daniel Bulpitt
Let this modern Japanese restaurant spice up your life Walking into Ochatto, the immediate smells of barbecue, fish, and spices lure you into this modernly decorated restaurant. At Ochatto, there are a few ways to dine: you can have a traditional sit–down experience, grill your own Korean barbecue, or sit at a large glass cooktop for the namesake hotpot. We go for the hotpot. I order a vegetable tom yum broth, and my friend orders a spicy Szechuan broth, as well as fish balls, shrimp, red clam,
enoki mushrooms, a cauliflower skewer, and a beef skewer. Hotpot is more of a family–style meal, with options like meat, fish, veggies, and noodles. While we wait for our food to arrive, we check out the sauce bar, where one can gather anything from peanut sauce to chili oil to garlic, and of course, salt and pepper, with a wide variety in between. After about 10–15 minutes or so, our server comes back with two soup pots. He places them on the cooktop in front of us
and turns the glass unit on. As the broth begins to come back to life, I throw in a shrimp and a fish ball, and watch as the bubbles dance around the pot. The steam smells slightly fermented, salty, and vaguely of celery. As the broth boils down, a server comes back and refills the broth with a kettle. Hotpot may be adventurous for those unaccustomed to cooking for themselves at a restaurant, but it’s a fun and delicious lunch to go to with a friend.
NEW TO THE NEIGHBORHOOD!
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MARKET HOUR SPECIALS $5 DRINKS + BITES MON - FRI, 4:30 - 6:30pm TASTEDANLU.COM 3601 MARKET ST 215-310-9828 1 2 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8
Ha Tran | Photographer
TL;DR: A little messy, with somewhat spotty service, but delicious hotpot dishes. Location: 3717 Chestnut Street Hours : Mon to Sat: 11 a.m.– 11 p.m. Sun: 12 p.m. to 11 p.m. Price: $$ As for the food itself, some of the sides were hit or miss. The red clam was very tough and rubbery—which may be the result of some slight overcooking on my part—but the fish balls and shrimp were delicious and picked up the flavor of the broth well. The enoki mushrooms were an excellent choice as well, as they turned into a sort of noodle consistency when boiled in the broth. The tom yum broth itself was great, with slight notes of fermentation, salt, and vegetables; it was so good that I found myself drinking the warm broth alone at the end of the meal. However, I do have some
words of caution if you choose to go to Ochatto Hotpot. For one, the spicy is very spicy—so spicy that my friend, who insists he can handle his fair share of heat, was coughing and chugging water after his broth. The service can be a little hit or miss as well; we had to remind our server a couple times to bring water, and our appetizer skewers came out after the hotpot was already served. Also note that hotpot is a little messy, so plan your attire or date accordingly. Overall, though, the meal was delicious, and proved to be a great option for something a little different, right on campus.
DINING GUIDE
Hungry Pigeon: If Portlandia Were a Restaurant A little birdie told us to try this comfort food
Annabelle Williams
It’s like an episode of Portlandia in here. The glassware and ceramics seem like slightly more polished versions of something you would find at a dollar store, or in a kindly 50–something’s Formica–laden kitchen, but in a classy way. Sea glass green water bottles sit on the tables and catch the winking light of the candle on mine, which sputtered out a few times throughout the meal only to be quickly revived by a startlingly attentive server. I’m from around Philadelphia and consider myself decently aware of its neighborhoods, but I’d never heard of Queen Village until I did the perfunctory pre–dinner Google search. It’s a mix of NYC Garment District vibes and Old City history that I wish I’d had time to explore more after dinner. At Hungry Pigeon, appetizers are meant to share, as are mains—the latter of which our waitress mentions as if to justify the $60 price tag of a steak for two—which, of course, I wouldn’t eat anyway; I’m a vegetarian, but the photographer and I nod and sip from our glasses anyway. The first course comes out and it’s vegetable–heavy. Toast laden with ricotta cheese and brussels sprout ceviche first, and then sweet potatoes grilled and doused with chimichurri.
The sweet potatoes are good and the chimichurri is an inventive choice, but they pale in comparison to the lightly pickled sprouts and the springy ricotta we wolf down in five minutes flat. And then there’s the pièce de résistance, a saucepan with potato gnocchi circled around a cheese–bread–type thing we can’t quite identify (whatever it was, it was good). Not wanting to seem to eager, we each eat slowly. “So, this is what gnocchi is actually supposed to taste like?” Turns out our photographer had never had any gnocchi that wasn’t frozen—and he was glad to have Hungry Pigeon’s be his first. Post–gnocchi, any main course had big shoes to fill. We waited barely any time at all for the Moroccan lentil stew to appear. It was fine, teeming with carrots and mushrooms and wheat berry, spiced with something we couldn’t quite identify. And the entrée’s family–style presentation gave a homey finishing touch to the eclectic mix of foods on the menu. But the stew didn’t wow either of us, and for $22, we were expecting something, well, better. In short, go here for appetizers, not mains. Think of it as hipster tapas. Another budget– friendly workaround is opt for the breakfast or “after–school”
menus for lighter fare with the same vibes. Hungry Pigeon is also known for its Family Dinners, in which executive chefs Scott Schroeder and Pat O’Malley choose a three–course menu for $45 per person (plus $25 with an optional wine pairing). It caters to large parties but can accommodate anywhere from two to 14 of your closest friends. We didn’t splurge for the royal treatment; it seems to cater to special occasions, not a broke–ish college student’s budget. That being said, it’s likely delicious.
Ha Tran | Photographer
tl;dr: Try out the appetizers in this eclectic neo–hipster restaurant in a relatively undiscovered neighborhood. Location: 743 S 4th Street Hours: Mon–Thurs: 7:00 a.m.—11:00 p.m. Fri: 7:00 a.m.—12:00 a.m. Sat–Sun: 9:00 a.m.—4:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m.—12:00 a.m. Price: $$$
Las
Cazuelas Restaurant www.lascazuelas.net (215) 351-9144 426 W Girard Ave
BYOB Authentic Mexican food Great for Private Parties $5 plate sharing fee
HAVE YOUR next Fiesta with us! M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 1 3
DINING GUIDE
Lip-smacking Lebanese Food Awaits You at Suraya Come for the yogurt, stay for literally everything else
Sabrina Qiao
Autumn Powell | Media Director
There’s a sprawling, steel light fixture that encompasses the majority of Suraya’s cafe area. It’s the first thing we notice when we walk in, and my friend and I stop to admire the cozy glow emanating from the hanging bulbs. Still, in the daytime, they’re hardly necessary; the place—all 12,000 feet of it—is flooded with light from the stretch of windows that overlook a row of quirky, multi–colored Fishtown townhouses. Inside, during a 3:00 p.m. afternoon lull, a few patrons are clacking away on their laptops in the cafe, and a few more are tucked away into the main dining hall, catching up with old friends over hummus, pita, and maybe cocktails. Suraya, named after the grandmother of two of the owners, carries the charm of a rustic Middle Eastern bazaar, with a menu that includes everything from Lebanese flatbreads to pastries and tea. The entrance leads directly into the cafe, which has a coffee bar (that also serves mimosas!) and intimate, two–person tables dotted around the expansive, tile– covered interior. Suraya’s back wall is lined with a
variety of merchandise for sale: olive oil, wine, tablecloths, pottery, and soap just to name a few things. Further in, the cafe transforms into a restaurant, bordered by a bar the stretches all the way to the back entrance, where garden seating will debut sometime in the summer. Behind the bar, chefs hustle around the gleaming open kitchen, assembling hummus platters, frying falafel, and baking flatbreads. We start off with the mezze platter— an interesting mix of hot and cold dips complete with a “six minute” soft–boiled egg covered in crushed cashews. The labne—a thick, yogurt–based dip with the consistency of cream cheese—is a standout, perfect when paired with the freshly–baked pita. But the rest of the platter pales in comparison to the man’oushe, a Lebanese flatbread. We order the cheese man’oushe with tomato, onion, pepper, parsley, and egg; it’s perfectly portioned for two people and once cut, the egg oozes onto the thin crust, which makes us feel just a touch healthier as we devour it. We also order the baba
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ghanoush plate with eggplant, tehina, urfa, and pomegranate. The pomegranate layered on top of the tehina adds a sweetness to the natural bitterness of the dip. A lot of Suraya’s dishes involve a little kick that belies their appearance; the herb falafel sandwich has crunchy falafel wrapped in pillowy pita bread, but the pickles add a vinegar sharpness that surprises us. Ending on a sweet note, the tehina yogurt blows us away. The thick yogurt is covered with crushed almonds, pomegranate seeds, and drizzled date syrup. While not cloyingly sweet, the date syrup is a nice touch, amplifying the natural sweetness of the pomegranate, and the portion size is big enough that we don’t mind sharing, even as our spoons clash against each other while scooping out the remains of the glass bowl. By the time we leave, the sun is starting to set, casting a shadow over the cafe. A few people are still hunched over their laptops, mugs in hand. The bell jingles as we exit, and just like that, the spell is broken and we’re back on the winding roads of Fishtown.
TL;DR: A midday adventure tucked against the whimsy of Fishtown Location: 1528 Frankford Avenue Hours: Mon: Closed Tues–Sun: 7:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. Price: $$
DINING GUIDE
Rounding Up Philly's Best Candy Shops So many places, so many lollipops to lick
Lore's Chocolates
Shane Confectionery Shane Confectionery feels like the candy stores you see in movies. If you like sweets, stop by and try their vanilla buttercream, lemon buttercream, brandied cherry, or dark salted caramel—they even have vegan options. Inside you will experience the old candy shop aesthetic and, I promise, you won't be able to resist buying yourself a treat.
TL;DR: Vintage candy shop and its charms Location: 110 Market Street Price: $$
Lore's Chocolates has been running for 51 years, making a lot of their own (delicious) chocolates in the store. Luckily, I visited during Easter season, which meant the store was covered with decorations, chocolate eggs, and bunnies. Some of the popular candies included chocolate caramel, chocolate peanut butter (think Reese's, but better), chocolate marshmallow, and vanilla buttercream.
TL;DR: Perfect for Easter. Location: 34 S 7th Street Price: $$
College Houses presents the
Rocket Fizz
Tamara Gelband
Unlike the other shops, Rocket Fizz is a franchise and has a wider variety of candy, including non–chocolate ones. For the most part, this meant candy from other manufacturReese Berman | Photographer ers (like Kinder, because you still need some chocolate) as well as their own production of taffy candies (try the green apple, be amazed) and licorice loops. The most popular product is apparently the "Bacon Soda," which is quite literally a soda meant to taste like bacon. The drink was actually maple–syrup–flavored, but tasted more like diabetes than bacon.
TL;DR: Rocking all those childhood favorites Location: 302 Arch Street Price: $ Earn College House Cup points for your House by attending the Gala Finale! See your House Cup Rep to find out how. www.collegehouses.upenn.edu/life/cup-reps
March 26–28, 2018
Gala Finale TONIGHT at 7:15 pm
NEW
featuring deluxe popcorn and
Red Carpet Surf ‘n’ Turf COLLEGE HOUSE marinated flat iron steak on a bed of crispy truffled Parmesan potatoes topped with a smoked gouda shrimp sauce Dining Pavilion fingerling finished with balsamic "caviar" spheres and beet greens
(Surf ‘n’ Turf requires meal swipe) M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 1 5
S HOPSATPE N N.COM
Calling all Movers Shakers + Quakers
Foodies Friends + Fans
Burgers Bagels + Brunch
From grab-and-go favorites to leisurely sit-down meals, Shop Penn has options to suit every diner, price point, and cuisine. With more than 40 dining destinations on or around campus, you’ll be sure to find whatever you’re craving.
Shop smarter. Shop Penn. #S HOPPE N N @S HOPSATPE N N
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DK Sushi Goldie The Juice Merchant High Street Provisions KQ Burger Little Baby’s Ice Cream Pitruco Pizza M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 17
DINING GUIDE
Root: If 'Mad Men' Were a Restaurant
We're rooting for the fresh eats and chic interiors at this Fishtown gem Sabrina Qiao
TL;DR: If ‘Mad Men’ were a restaurant Location: 1206 Frankford Avenue Hours: Monday–Wednesday: 5:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m. Thursday–Friday: 5:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m. Saturday: 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m.; 5:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m. Sunday: 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m.; 5:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m. Price: $$$ “It’s much more of a ‘Mad Men’ feel over there,” our waitress at Suraya tells us while we get ready to walk over to Root Restaurant and Wine Bar. We are on a Greg Root mission today, determined to try both of his Fishtown restaurants: Suraya for brunch and Root for dinner. Luckily, they’re only a five–minute walk from each other. Root is less than half the size of Suraya, and whereas Suraya has the expansive magic of a Levantine bazaar, Root has the intimacy of a smoky cabaret club. The interior is all teal armchairs, camel banquettes, brass and gold accents, and a center bar that dominates the dining area without suffocating it. Above the bar, gold piping climbs from the ceiling down to the floor like tilted monkey bars and opens up the space, an effect heightened by the mirrors that surround each wall of the restaurant. The lighting is made up of glass orbs that jut out in right angles over the bar, which is encircled by a string of leather–cushioned barstools. Root labels itself as a “casual” wine bar, but there’s something mysterious and sensual about the interior; coupled with a few glasses of wine, this seems like the perfect date location. My friend and I take a seat right by the entrance at a table flooded with waning sunlight from the floor–to– ceiling windows. She orders a glass of Txakolina, a refreshing citrus wine that complements the customizable cheese and salami platter we order. The baguette is fresh and sourced directly from a bakery down the street, but it’s really the smoky chorizo and rich Blow Horn cheese that carry the
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dish. Drizzled with a thin stream of local honey, the combination is heavy enough to satisfy, but light enough that we are still looking forward to our entrées. Three side dishes of honey dried fruit, fermented veggies, and wine–soaked plums come with the platter, and we pick at them (the plums are excellent) as we wait for our next course. The farro and apple salad comes next. It’s an interesting blend of piave cheese, apple, fall roots, and burnt honey—hearty without tasting too heavy or oily. The apples and piave add a nice, refreshing touch to an otherwise normal salad, and the portion size is generous, which makes it a suitable entrée all on its own. The merzula follows, a seafood dish with a cod–like fish that is covered in heirloom beans, swimming in red sauce with hints of paprika. The mussels are chewy, and the fish surrenders at the slightest pressure from my fork, but the real superstar is the duxelle burger. The meat is tender and dripping with juices, and the potato buns are warm and delicious without soaking up too much of the mushroom or cheese. The fries pale in comparison to the delicious burger, but we still finish each and every one. Our meal ends right as rush–hour traffic picks up, and we watch a series of cars whizz by as we consider dessert—with options such as hazelnut brown butter cake and chocolate budino, who wouldn’t?—but we’re too full from the combination of American, Spanish, and Italian cuisine. And secretly because, at the root of it, we want another reason to come back.
DINING GUIDE
Stock: Delicious Pho and Southeast Asian Noodlery Isabella Fertel & Dalton DeStefano As soon as you walk through the sparkling glass doors of Stock, a Southeast Asian eatery specializing in all things noodles, it is clear that attention to quirky detail reigns king. Vibrant green chopsticks bring a pop of color to the otherwise minimalist, monotone decor. Located in Fishtown—proximity may be the only downside to this insanely good noodlery—Stock serves traditional Vietnamese and Thai cuisine with fresh flair and a spicy kick. The spicy peanut noodles are the perfect amount of savory, sweet, and spicy. The
Pho lovers take stock of this spot.
dish comes with a heap of wheat noodles doused in a thick, peanuty sauce, and topped with with lime, radish, carrot, mint, basil, and cucumber. The Vietnamese coffee, which is complete with sweetened condensed milk, dark roasted coffee, and cinnamon, is the perfect complement to the noodles, bringing a lightness to what could otherwise have been an overwhelmingly heavy appetizer. But as good as all of the cold noodle dishes on the menu sound, the main star of Stock is the pho. The mushroom pho may be the most basic
TL;DR: Broth as warm as a cozy hug. Location: 308 E Girard Avenue Price: $$
2229 Spruce St. 215-735-7357
item on the menu—how can it not be when stacked against dishes like yam samun phrai and khao soi?—but it packs a nuanced, flavorful punch. Endless rice noodles marinate in a sweet, garlicky broth infused with tofu, lime wedges, Thai basil leaves, beech mushrooms, bean sprouts, and jalapeños. The tofu khao poon is essentially a curry soup with a coconut milk base, complete with tons of shredded cabbage, long beans, lime, mint, cilantro, basil, and, of course, peanuts. Large pieces of tofu complement what feels like
Hours: Monday–Friday: 11:30 a.m.– 2:30 p.m.; 5:30 p.m.–10:00 p.m. Saturday–Sunday: 12:00 p.m.–9:00 p.m.
a gallon of broth. The bowl is enormous, and you can hardly finish half of it before feeling full. Rich, and slightly spicy, this bowl of soup feels like a cozy hug. The Thai iced tea is pretty standard—sweet and refreshing with its characteristic bright orange hue. In the future, I would skip it, if not only because the food alone is filling enough. Beyond the amazing food,
the wait staff is small and attentive, driving home the fact that when you go to Stock, you’re going to an intimate establishment. The seating consists of one long bar and about six tables total, which may be a little tiny for a rowdy BYO. But for days when you want to get off campus and not see a single familiar face, Stock is comforting, relaxed, and delicious.
Live music • Film • Dance • Theater Art Education • Community
Ars Nova presents the Jessica Pavone String Ensemble Mar 28 2018 @ 8:00PM
Tues - Thurs 4 - 10pm
Fe Erica Dicker, violin; Angela Morris, violin,; Jessica Pavone, viola; Joanna Mattrey, viola
Sun 4 - 10pm
Ars Nova Workshop is pleased to present the Jessica Pavone String Ensemble, featuring the violist as both composer and performer.
Fri - Sat 4 - 11pm
Located on the corner of Spruce & 23rd for 22 years Philadelphia’s first authentic all wood-fired brick oven pizza
The Gathering Mar 29 2018 @ 9:00 PM Admission: $3 before 10pm, $5 after 10pm 7pm-1am (special time this month!) Est. in 1996, The Gathering is the longest/strongest-running truly Hip Hop event in Philly.
The Monthly Fund Event Mar 31 2018 @ 7:00 PM (rescheduled from 3/2) The first Monthly Fund Event of 2018! Featuring performances by: Drum Like A Lady, Settled Arrows, Almanac, Speak Wright, Richie M Wexler and more! All funds will go to Bread & Roses Community Fund. For more info, visit breadrosesfund.org
Hand-made daily with the freshest ingredients Gluten-free and soy cheese pizza available!
As an alcohol-free/smoke-free venue, The Rotunda provides an invaluable social alternative for all ages.
4014 Walnut • TheRotunda.org M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 1 9
DINING GUIDE
The Best of Baltimore
The tastiest cafes and dessert shops that are just a short, scenic walk away Confession: until last week, I’d never properly explored Baltimore Avenue. But unsurprisingly, Baltimore proved itself to be a gem—and one with lots of vegan options.
Ice Cave
If you only check out one place on this list, make it Ice Cave. The owners, a married couple from Taipei, rival Lyn’s in friendliness, and the treats are amazing. I tried the Mt. Fuji ($4.29), mat-
cha shaved ice topped with milk chocolate toffee bits, mochi, and condensed milk. Not quite ice cream, but not quite ice either, each bite is light and refreshing, melting on your tongue. I’ve never been a mochi fan, but I was pleasantly surprised when it complimented the other flavors perfectly. Even the photographer, who is lactose intolerant, couldn’t resist trying a bite or five. Next, I sampled their tropical tea ($3.19). Ice Cave offers teas with tapioca, jelly, or bursting boba.
The tropical tea has jelly in it, and while I enjoyed the tea, the jelly was not my favorite—I’d probably go for the tapioca next time. I then sampled the strawberry wheel cake ($2.19), which was reminiscent of strawberry shortcake, but with a less dense pastry. I’d highly recommend it, and next winter, I’ll be back to try one of their seasonal offerings: the hot wheel cakes. In addition to these treats, Ice Cave also offers popsicles ($3.50) and plenty of vegan options for all types of treats.
L O C A L , S E A S O N A L , S U S TA I N A B L E
S er ving Penn since 1983
3420 Sansom Street • 215.386.9224 • whitedog.com 2 0 WD_DP_Dining 3 4 T H S T R EGuide E T M2018.indd A G A Z I N 1E M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8
3/23/2018 3:21:24 PM
Morgan Potts
TL;DR: Delicious, traditional Taiwanese treats Location: 4507 Baltimore Avenue Hours: Mon – Thurs: 2:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Fri 2:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m. Sat: 1:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m. Sun: 1:00 p.m. – 6:30 p.m. Price: $
Dottie’s Donuts
Dottie’s is slightly off Baltimore, located on Springfield Avenue just behind the gas station and auto shop. While we hd a little trouble finding the place, we eventually located the bright and inviting storefront. We tried three of their most popular flavors: Boston cream ($3.25), strawberry pistachio ($2.50), and chocolate Oreo ($2.50). If I hadn’t known these donuts were vegan, I wouldn’t have guessed it. The dough is a bit denser than Beiler’s, but the donuts are still light and fluffy. My favorite was the strawberry pistachio—the icing was flavorful but not overpowering. The chocolate icing was very similar in taste to Krispy Kreme chocolate icing—a bit sweet for my taste. The Boston cream was good, but it was more of a vanilla cream center, with a filling that was much thinner than I expected. Overall, I probably would only go back for the strawberry pistachio, and while I enjoyed the Boston cream and chocolate Oreo, they weren’t anything worth making a trip out for.
Jean Chapiro | Photographer
TL;DR: Vegan donuts that don’t taste vegan! Location: 4529 Springfield Ave. Hours: Mon–Fri: 7:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m. Sat–Sun: 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. Price: $
Satellite Cafe
Nestled beside a bike shop and Dock Street Brewery, Satellite Café is a cozy little coffee shop that offers delicious and inexpensive food with plenty of vegan options. The Bike Shop ($3.24), a tasty combination of cream cheese, roasted peppers, pesto, and spinach, is their most popular sandwich. I tried it on a wrap, and I would definitely recommend it, though the portion was a bit small. If you’d like it on a bagel (the preferred choice of regulars), get there early—their bagels usually sell out before the afternoon. For a sweeter treat, try the chocolate peanut butter brownie ($3.10)—it’s very rich, but well worth the extra calories. While the food was excellent, the service leaves a little to be desired. The barista was not outwardly rude, but he was definitely standoffish. But if off the beaten path dives are your thing, check out the Satellite Café.
TL;DR: Cozy cafe with tasty food Location: 701 S 50th Street Hours: Mon–Fri: 7:00 a.m.–9:00 p.m. Sat–Sun: 9:00 a.m.–9:00 p.m. Price: $
DINING GUIDE
Keen Serves Up American Comfort Food
A menu your grandma would approve of (in a good way) Sharon Christner Keen is not the place to bring her if you’re “just friends.” The first floor dining room features candlelit tables for two under a coral– reef chandelier, surrounded by deep blue walls and blonde driftwood accents that give the place an undersea romantic feel. However, that’s not to say it’s
Min Park | DP Photographer
old–fashioned—the place has a colorful, funky vibe and a vintage condom dispenser in the men’s room. The bar in the next room has a similar ambiance, with jewel–tone lighting refracted around the room from suspended crystals. Upstairs there’s another bar, where the vibe is more laid back. The second floor features a lounge area com-
TL;DR: Keen’s smaller menu is temporary (with many new additions—including Sunday brunch—coming this spring), but in the meantime, come for a first date, a Pac–Man tournament, or both. Location: 1708 Lombard Street Hours: Mon: Closed Tues–Sun: 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Price: $$
plete with couches, larger tables, a shelf of board games, and a retro Pac–Man
machine. The whole place is pristine, well–curated, and not too loud, with an American comfort food menu created “with Grandmas everywhere in mind.” The music is eclectic, too, the soundtrack equivalent of American comfort food. We hear “Africa” by Toto played unironically, followed by “Piano Man,” a few country songs, “American Pie,” and “Dream On” by Aerosmith. The waitresses sing a little when they think no one is listening. We begin the night with a Keen Mule—a classic Moscow Mule served in a sleek cooper cup, enlivened with a hint of cranberry syrup and mint for garnish. The cranberry flavor adds balance and depth, smoothing the taste of the vodka without cloaking it. The Sexy Salad features crisp greens, squash cubes, broccoli cooked just right, and freshly ground pepper. For six dollars more, I add shrimp—unremarkable but a good addition. I finish the salad not completely sure what’s sexy about it, but it hits the spot.
We are encouraged to try Keen’s burger selection, which consists of one item, named, creatively, burger. Turns out they don’t need more than one on the menu: this one is juicy enough to skip the ketchup, served with melting sharp white cheddar and a side of fresh–cut fries. While it’s not an overwhelmingly large burger, the signature house sauce will win you over (we want the recipe!). The only drawback: it came a little more well–done than we wanted. We move on to Keen’s more unusual menu items, ordering the maple–glazed brussels. The sprouts come in a small portion size, but they pack a punch. Maple syrup sweet, then salty, then vegetable–y—too powerful to finish in one sitting. If you’re looking for something equally as unusual, though perhaps less intense, try out their candied bacon, Pig Candy. We finish with the crème brûlée, perfectly light and creamy, just like we imagine Grandma would make it.
w w w . u n i v e r s i t y c i t ya x i s . c o m
Short-term lease, Furnished units, all utilities included Fitness Center and Axis Pizza in the building!
20 S. 36th Street Philadelphia, PA 19104 215.662.0802 axisleasing@altmanco.com
215.662.0802 M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 2 1
DINING GUIDE
Michelle Pereira | Photographer
Lucky’s Last Chance: Not Your Everyday Burger Burgers, brunch, and beer at this classic, retro diner
Nestled in the quaint Old City neighborhood of Queen Village, Lucky’s Last Chance is not your run–of–the–mill burger joint. Oozing with scrappy spunk, the restaurant gives the classic retro diner a fresh, modern twist. Manager Tim Spreng describes the spot as a “punk rock burger bar.” Replete with a collage of old rock posters, colorful vintage signs, and a killer music playlist consisting of rock ‘n’ roll favorites like The Clash and Blink–182, the bar more than lives up to this description. Lucky’s Last Chance serves modern American comfort food— burgers, mac n’ cheese, and biscuits and gravy to name a few of their staples. If you’re over 21, though, be sure to stop in for
a beer, since Lucky’s Last Chance has a wide selection of unique crafts. If you’re not up to speed on your beer knowledge, though, not to worry. Their bartenders know the ins and outs of their beer list, and are quick to engage and chat with the customers. A standout was the Platform City Boy, a light, fruity, IPA. Though the joint’s exterior is underwhelming, their food is anything but. Walking the line between progressive and classic, Lucky’s Last Chance reinvents a foray of timeless American dishes. If you’re looking for a good burger, Lucky’s Last Chance is a solid option. If you’re looking for a new, unique, artisan burger, Lucky’s Last Chance is the option.
I stopped in for a late brunch, and reviewed some of the restaurant’s best–selling brunch and lunch items. Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Though it’s a bit of a hike from campus, the food was definitely worth the trip. I first tried the PB&J burger, which is the crown jewel of Lucky’s Last Chance’s burger menu. Notably, it won the 2016 Philadelphia Burger Brawl People’s Choice award. This dish is the love child of the two most quintessential American favorites: the PB&J and the cheeseburger. Not for the faint of heart, this burger is a bold, exciting, and unexpected callback to childhood. Though the com-
Welcome CLASS OF Exp.2/23/12 4/11/12 Exp.
2016
For Fast Delivery Call 215-386-1941
4004 chestnut street | (215) 386-1941
Michelle Pereira
bination of peanut butter, jelly, and a burger might give you pause, the burger functioned surprisingly well as a unit. The creaminess of the peanut butter paired well with the sweet crunch of bacon and the softness of the patty. The jam tied the burger together: cool and fruity, it interacted not only with the savoriness of the American cheese, but gave the overall sandwich a fresh feel. Whimsical and nostalgic, this burger is definitely worth a try for the adventurous eater. Next came The One–Eyed Sailor, which is a unique take on the classic “egg in the hole” breakfast, but packed with flavor. An over–easy egg (cooked firm around the edges, but gooey in the center) is nestled into a bed of Texas Toast, accompanied by a side of crispy bacon. The whole creation is topped by the restaurant’s very own cheese sauce, which brought this dish to a new level. Smooth and creamy, the sauce held together well, which is difficult for most cheese–based sauces. Its soft, liquid texture contrasted nicely with the crunch of the crispy Texas Toast, and gave the dish a wide textural range.
Spicy yet savory, the cheese sauce packed an intense and flavorful punch, making it my top pick. I then tried the biscuit and gravy, which is the safest item on the menu. Chunky sausage gravy made in–house is drizzled over a fluffy biscuit, baked right down the street at The Hungry Pigeon. A little different from a smooth, traditional gravy, Lucky’s Last Chance’s gravy is rich, and packed with loose chunks of sausage. Overall, the dish was perfectly acceptable, though was easily outshone by the more glamorous options on the menu. Switching gears from savory to sweet, I sampled the Bananas Foster French Toast, which is a rich and indulgent take on the classic brunch staple. Dense challah bread is battered in crispy cinnamon and topped with caramelized bananas. The whole creation is garnished with fluffy Grand Marnier–infused whipped cream, giving the french toast a smoky, bourbon– y flavor. The dish covers all its bases, and is layered with undertones of maple, brown sugar, and vanilla. Decadent, sweet, and filling, the french toast will satisfy any sweet tooth.
Exp.2/23/12 4/11/12 Exp.
All You Can Eat Buffet Every Day!
For Fast Delivery Call 215-386-1941
Tl;dr: “Punk rock” burgers and beer at their finest Location: 848 S 2nd Street
$2 beer special! Hours: Mon–Sun 11:00 a.m.–2:00 a.m. Welcome $3 beer! shots! wine! Price Range: $$
CLASS OF
student discount with I.D. | order online @ newdehliweb.com | closed mondays Exp.2/23/12 4/11/12 Exp. 2 2 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8
For Fast Delivery Call 215-386-1941
DINING GUIDE
Miles Table: Miles Away From What We Hoped For Sophie Xi Angela Lin On sunlit South Street, nestled between an artisan pie shop and a cat clinic, sits Miles Table, “where the neighborhood eats.” The door is propped open with a chalkboard sign that announces the day’s specials: pork hash, short ribs, fish tacos. Inside lies a cozy corridor where couples chat and singles type away on Macbooks over boxed salads. A mother keeps her two young children in check. Bottles of white flowers hang on the right–hand wall, light flickers out of glass pendants, and an exposed pipe runs along the length of the ceiling. The stereo shuffles through indie rock—The Strokes, Phoenix, all the favorites. The ambience seems to scream: “Brooklynite has field day at Crate & Barrel.” At the far end of the restaurant is the counter where we order; at our left, another chalkboard menu. A Post–it note scrawled with “½ off burgers” hangs by
the register; one of the waiters replaces it with a circular sign that says the same thing but in— shocker!—chalk. If Saturdays are for the boys, then Wednesdays are for half–off burgers at Miles Table. The man behind the counter recommends the turkey burger, but we’re feeling rebellious and so we opt for the falafel burger ($10, now $5) instead. We pick our table, and soon notice the large, black–and– white photograph of a young boy with spiky hair that hangs by the door. He wears a white double–breasted chef jacket with a cursive “Chef Miles” on the pocket. Later, our waiter tells us it’s a picture of the owner’s son. He’s maybe ten now. He also comes with bad news—apparently, they’re out of the Tres Leches French Toast ($10) we wanted. We opt for the avocado toast ($9) instead. It arrives in short order with the falafel burger and our pork
Tl;dr: Perfect for an easy weekday brunch. But don’t set your standards too high.
hash ($12). The food looks cute—the dishes are clearly plated with care—but what’s the saying? All that glitters is not gold? The falafel burger is but a brick of under–seasoned garbanzo bean, though the home fries that come with the avocado toast are roasted to satisfaction. And the avocado toast, with its beautifully thin slices of avocado, with its over–easy eggs melted over arugula fronds, is slightly burnt
and also slightly flavorless. Inversely, the avocado puree that’s smeared as a base for the pork hash is salty—really salty—so we sip water from the mason jars they’ve given us. Miles Table is cute, it’s homey, it’s reasonably accessible. It is, perhaps, best described as a farmer’s market in a postmodern society. But the farm–to–table vibe shines best through the decor, not so much the food. Adjacent from the picture of
young Chef Miles is a black– and–white portrait of his baby sister, who sits in a large metal pail with a bow on her head. Her mouth is perpetually open, as if to say “You caught me!” Indeed, we’ve been caught. Roped in by the rustic glamour of Miles Table, then fed a lunch that didn’t quite meet our expectations á la 4.5 star Yelp rating. Would we try it again? Sure. Or maybe we’ll leave that part to the neighborhood.
Univ. of Penn’s restaurant of choice for student celebrations, special date nights, greek formals, holiday & graduation parties Philly Mag Top 50 Bar & Restaurant 2017 ! 20th & Lombard (just over bridge) 2 Happy Hours Nightly
Location: 1620 South Street Hours: Mon–Thurs: 8 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Fri–Sat: 8 a.m.–9 p.m. Sun: 9 a.m.–4 p.m.
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DINING GUIDE
Doing Happy Hour the Right Way at El Rey
Mexican fare that won't leave you broke Steph Barron
The phrase “Happy Hour Deal” is a common misnomer. In Philadelphia, it generally means the time between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. on weekdays during which restaurants provide discounts on drinks in order to encourage patronage. But, usually, prices are still quite high. Often, menus only include the “house” drinks, and worse, omit food entirely. As a result, many “Happy Hour Deals” are neither happy, nor an hour, nor a deal. But El Rey’s, while lasting an hour and a half, is still two of these things. Here’s how to make the most of it. 1. Arrive, hungry, at 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, or a few minutes before if you can. This spot is both small and popular, and is therefore usually full by 5:30 p.m. 2. Get whichever flavored margarita fits your mood ($5).
Choose from jalapeño pineapple, blackberry cabernet, tamarind, guava, a frozen one whose flavors vary by the month and more. The bell pepper basil margarita is neither excessively sweet nor too thick. Its two slightly unconventional flavors enhance rather than mask the taste of the tequila. The drink is light, refreshing, delicious and—don’t worry—strong. 3. Share the nachos ($12) if you’re with a few people. The genius of this dish lies not in its gigantic portion, but in its arrangement. It comes on a huge plate, its ingredients in thin layers rather than a stack so that all of its components are distributed evenly. The cheese layer that coats the tortilla chips acts as a kind of cement, ensuring that each chip gets a little bit of sour cream, black bean, and spicy crumbled chorizo. As a result, each bite provides the full
spectrum of nacho taste—spicy, salty, creamy—and texture— meaty, crunchy, gooey. 4. Get the brisket taco ($1), the meat of which is succulent and smoked in–house. Oh, and nestled inside a soft, textured, house–made tortilla blanket. 5. Get a few more tacos ($1) There’s the proverbial chicken, spicy and slightly charred, fish seared perfectly, and carnitas pork—which, like the brisket, is smoked in–house. But there’s also duck, which comes with a little egg. There’s tofu, which is somehow almost as moist and flavorful as the meat. And there’s lamb, which is crispy, topped with yogurt sauce, and totally at home in a taco. 6. Get another margarita ($5). You know you’re curious about the Passion in Oaxaca even though you butcher the
pronunciation as you order it. 7. Use flash with any photos you take. The dim lighting is part of the atmosphere and the experience, but the food is too colorful and artistically arranged not to document. 8. Check out the art, some of which is the work of prison inmates. Furnished by Shawn Hausman Design, the restaurant’s décor and mix–and– matched dishware is collected from flea markets and antique shops across the country. The general aesthetic is one of a slightly gritty—yet somehow
trendy—Mexican diner.
roadside
9. Get a to–go box. There will be leftover nachos, and these tortilla chips—textured, flavorful and made in–house—still taste great after being refrigerated, microwaved, and even stripped of their toppings. 10. Realize you just had a fantastic boozy meal for a ridiculous price. (~$20 + tax and tip).
TL;DR: Happiness can be bought. For $20. Location: 2013 Chestnut Street Hours: Mon–Thurs: 11:30 a.m.–11:00 p.m. Fri–Sat: 11:30 a.m.–12:00 a.m. Sun: 11:30 a.m.–11:00 p.m. Price: $$
Megan Kyne | Photographer 2 4 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8
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DINING GUIDE FILM FILM FILM
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34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011 34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011 34TH STREET Magazine December 1, 2011
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34th and Sansom is an iconic block for University City foodies. Bernie’s, a restaurant/bar/ lounge with outposts in Glenside and Haverford, has just recently joined the club. I went one Sunday at noon to see if the freshly opened spot could hold its own against its wildly popular neighbors. Bernie’s University City is so new, it doesn’t even have a website page yet and I couldn’t find
Price: $$$
• 215.387.8533 • •215.387.8533 PattayaRestaurant.com PattayaRestaurant.com PattayaRestaurant.com 215.387.8533 • University • •University 4006 4006 4006 Chestnut Chestnut Chestnut Street Street Street University City City City
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DINING GUIDE
Italian Fare with Prohibition–Era Flair at Wm. Mulherin's Sons
Dine like a bootlegger in this 118–year–old Fishtown eatery that’s got shareable platters and old–school ambiance to spare Nick Joyner & Zoe Albano-Oritt
Disclaimer: After Street visited Wm. Mulherin's Sons, allegations emerged that the head chef had sexually harrassed several employees. He has since been suspended. Wm. Mulherin's Sons has been through a lot, but not even Prohibition could bring it down. After America’s dry spell shuttered the whiskey store’s doors in 1924, it lay dormant for 92 years. Three years before awakening, the building’s side was painted with a Stephen "ESPO" Powers mural that famously appeared on the cover of Kurt Vile’s 2013 album Wakin on a Pretty Daze. The store’s
history is incorporated into the new restaurant through its aesthetics: gorgeous dark wood fills the bar area, accentuated by black leather seats, patches of bare brick wall, and white tile floor, and the arched windows and clean architectural lines brings one right back to the turn of the century. The dining room is lit in tungsten and candlelight, with a moody fire burning for any couples Enter the building on Front Street to a foyer with chocolate brown tassels and a mural of dancing goat demons. The dining space then splits off into two main areas: to the right, the
Danny Rubin | Photographer
bar along with any additional seating; to the left, another dining room. There’s a wall of frosted glass near where we sat, providing a small partition between the restaurant and the soft rumble of the El train outside. The menu offers classic upscale Italian fare with some tapas–style classic bar fare sprinkled in. It’s 2018—of course the waiter tells you that all the dishes are sized to share and that they’ll be brought to your table as they’re prepared. And watch out—they will correct you if you mispronounce “porcini.” There was a small gap between the order and the food’s arrival, but they brought out plenty
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of house–baked sourdough in between to keep us satiated. We could tell that the bread was baked in the wood–fired oven; the char on the crust gave the bread a subtle smoky flavor which contrasted beautifully with the simple salted butter spread. The wait wasn’t too long, though, and our first round of courses did not disappoint. First up were the fazzoletti and the porcini cavatelli pasta dishes. The fazzoletti itself simultaneously resembled ultra–thin sheets of lasagne and carefully unwrapped raviolis. It was covered in a subtly creamy sauce and garnished with the occasional porcini, asparagus head, and spring onion—both shoot and flower. The sauce was the highlight of the dish: it was creamy and cheesy, but not heavy or overpowering. Instead, it infused the fazzoletti with just the slightest hint of decadence. We initially mistook the brown cavatelli—meant to be shaped like hotdog buns—for gnocchi, but could taste the dif-
ference in the semolina dough. No potatoes here, just a light dusting of taleggio and fontina. The dish was almost overwhelmingly salty, resembling a paella or other seafood dish in salinity. A quick utensil change brought us to the pizza—our final and main course. We ordered two pies to share, a Double Margherita and the “Spicy Jawn.” The Double Margherita was an updated classic. A generous addition of burrata took each slice to a new level. The “Spicy Jawn” was aptly named, featuring long hots, hot coppa, pepperoni, caciocavallo, tomato, and sharp provolone. If you can’t handle spicy foods, don’t worry. Though the heat was definitely present, it added another layer of flavor to the pie without being overpowering And don’t worry if you get too full and can’t travel home. Wm. Mulherin's rents out the upstairs hotel for upwards of $268 a night. Cozy, moody, and delicious, it’s the perfect one– stop shop for a lovely date.
Tl;dr: Classic upscale Italian interwoven with Prohibition themes. Location: 1355 N Front Street Hours: Mon–Fri: 5:00 p.m.–12:00 a.m. Sat–Sun: 10:30 a.m.–2:00 p.m.; 5:00 p.m.–12:00 a.m. Price: $$$
Mason Jar Magic:
DINING GUIDE
On-the-go Meals
Compact recipes to keep you fed all week Steph Barron
In the realm of DIYs, mason jars have become somewhat of a superstar, but they shouldn't be used solely for decoration. These cute glass containers are also the perfect, compact way to meal prep throughout the week. From casserole to oatmeal, you can create a series of dishes that'll keep you fed Monday through Sunday. Who knows? Inside the jars, the food might just seem too pretty to eat.
Dayz Terry | Photographer
Curry Chicken with Quinoa
To start off: Wash the mason jars with soap and warm water. Each recipe yields one jar. When putting the jars in the oven, put them inside a pan of hot water. In the fridge and vacuum–sealed, this food will be good for at least a week.
Veggie Kale Casserole smaller they are, the more you can fit in the jar 3. Place in jar and sprinkle with olive oil and pepper 4. Cook for 40 minutes 5. Stuff kale in the jar. It will shrink a LOT so don’t worry about using too much. 6. Add a tablespoon of brown mustard 7. Squeeze lime on top 8. Cook for another 20 minutes 9. While the jar is still hot, screw the lid on tight using mitts 10. Within 15 minutes, you should hear a very satisfying pop—that’s the jar vacuum–sealing. If you don’t, press the poppy bit of the lid down. If it stays there, then your jar is sealed.
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2. Put quinoa and broth in the jar 3. Add the chicken, peppers and peas 4. Cook for 45 minutes. 5. Check that the chicken is white and the quinoa looks like tiny platelets. If it doesn’t, give it another 5 minutes in the oven. 6. While the jar is still hot, screw the lid on tight using mitts 7. Within 15 minutes, you should hear a very satisfying pop—that’s the jar vacuum–sealing. If you don’t, press the poppy bit of the lid down. If it stays there, then your jar is sealed.
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Cook time: 1 hour Diets: Vegetarian, Vegan, Gluten–Free, Dairy–Free Why it’s great: When healthy vegetables are conveniently in your backpack, it’s easier to choose them over food trucks and Frontera. Ingredients: ½ a sweet potato ¼ of an eggplant 2 handfuls of kale 1 tablespoon of brown mustard A lime wedge Olive oil Pepper Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees 2. Cut the sweet potato and eggplant into small cubes—the
Cook time: 50 minutes Diets: Gluten–Free, Dairy–Free Why it’s great: It’s loaded with protein, which is really important in a mid-day meal. Ingredients: ¼ cup of quinoa, uncooked ¼ cup of broth ½ cup of chopped chicken ¼ cup of chopped peppers ¼ cup of peas 1 teaspoon of curry powder 1 teaspoon of paprika Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
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We Fell in Love at (and with) The Love
DINING GUIDE
Seriously, go here on a date Angela Huang
Even at 8 p.m. on a Wednesday, Rittenhouse is tense. Outside, street lights buzz and Ubers blink as we rush out of our car and barrel into the restaurant. But The Love. breathes. Here, you sit for a while. You steep in the glow of the candlelight reflecting against wood furniture, the ceilings high enough to feel airy but not daunting. The walls—a mélange of white exposed brick and gaping windows—are almost completely bare, save for a smear of color from a painting or a flash of yellow from a pot of flowers. There’s no dress code, but all the staff are wearing bright prints—Julian, our server, is wearing plaid. Our menus are sprinkled with dishes like “funny name here” and stickers that say “I Knead Your Love.” From above, The XX plays from speakers. It’s pristine, but unpretentious, playful, but tasteful: more grandma’s lake house than stuffy fine dining. The menu is deceptively simple for the amount of flavor the dishes contain:
each consists of only a few ingredients. We order bread rolls, ricotta ravioli, and potato spuds to start. The bread rolls arrive in a skillet, seated next to a small tub of chive butter. “Careful, it’s hot,” Julian cautions us. The whole– wgrain b u n s huddle in the cast iron, and they taste as homey as they look. The ricotta ravioli, gold and glistening in the light, sits on a cloud of orange squash gravy. The ravioli is still crispy, a feat given that it’s been simmering in the squash sauce. The sauce is surprisingly light, and the squash’s tanginess elevates the mellow flavor of the ricotta. The potatoes are the wildcard of the appetizers—they’re your classic smashed and broiled spuds, except filled with a whitefish salad instead of a traditional bacon cheese combo. One bite in and
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Toto, we’re not in TGI Friday’s anymore. The flaky skin bursts against your teeth, the ripe flesh spills onto your tongue. The acidity of the creamy whitefish salad offsets the oily, flaky potato, providing fresh saltwater relief and just the right amount of saltiness. The Love. was born out of a collaboration between Stephen Starr (Starr Re s t a u r a n t s ) and Aimee Olexy (Talula’s Table). It shows— the restaurant blends the theatricality of a Starr restaurant with the pastoral charm of any one of Aimee Olexy’s spots. Servers twirl around you; it feels like Moonrise Kingdom was transposed into a restaurant, and you play the diner in this picturesque narrative. For our main courses, we order the acorn squash, the trout, and the lamb
roast. The dishes are a spectacle: the entirety of the trout sits on a wooden serving tray, the exterior of the acorn squash is shaved so that the fruit looks like striated pottery. The lamb rests on a froth of root vegetables with the buttery consistency and taste of mashed potatoes. The tangy sour cherry au jus spills over the dish, and counters the heavier lamb, which is seasoned with herbs that remind me of a French countryside. The trout, imported that morning from South Carolina, gapes at me. I ignore its glassy glare and dig my fork into it. Its tender meat gushes with freshwater and herbs—I don’t even feel guilty when I
DINING GUIDE
PHILLY’S HOTTEST LOCATION FOR PRIVATE PARTIES
Photos by Caroline Gibson stab my fork into the crispy flesh and hear the crackle against the metal. The trout is served with a side of farro—and this is what farro is supposed to taste like, ripe beads of grain that pop on your tongue. The maple flavoring saturates the grains, a tart jolt from each individual kernel. The acorn squash nests on tomato, and its cheese filing stretches like elastic when we dig into its center. The squash is smooth as sorbet and bathed in equal parts tomato sauce and cheese. Dessert looks like a painter’s palette. Dots of lemon sauce speckle the ceramic plate, lining a diverse selection of chocolates, pumpkin munchkins, and mousses. It’s served with a caramel sauce that’s blended with flecks of salt. The sauce changed my life—we guzzled it from the cup. By now it’s 10:30 p.m., closing time. We walk outside and back into Philly, which hums with its familiar electricity.
Tl;dr: New American cuisine with a rustic charm— more romantic than all three 50 Shades movies Location: 130 S 18th Street Hours: Every day for brunch and dinner Mon–Thurs: 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m. Fri:11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m. Sat:10:00 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. Sunday: 10:00 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 5:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. Price: $$$
460 N. 9TH STREET | 215.769.2780 INFO@DISTRICTN9NE.COM DISTRICTN9NE.COM M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E 2 9
DINING GUIDE
Heavenly Tapas at Oloroso, Philly's Newest Spanish Restaurant
Who knew squid ink rice, rib–eye steak, and churros would make such a perfect meal? Elizabeth Lemieux
Through the open window decked with fairy lights, the warm glow of Oloroso, a Spanish tapas restaurant, flooded the streets. Inside, a hostess lead my girlfriend and I through the soft commotion of the restaurant towards the back, where chefs cooked on open brick fires. Unlike many tapas restaurants, where the crowd is mainly younger and liveliest around the bar, Oloroso had a homey vibe, complete with cave–style murals on the walls—perfect for a ro-
mantic date night. What was most immediately striking was the menu. Waiters carried bone marrow and whole pigs’ heads past our kitchen–side table, giving us a preview of some of the imaginative dishes we would find on the menu. To start, we asked for our favorite off–menu tapas starter: olives, which our waitress was happy to provide. Oloroso hosts a seafood–focused menu, which we took into consideration when choosing our dishes. We ended up ordering gam-
bas al ajillo (shrimp), patatas bravas (potatoes), and that night’s special, a rib–eye. Feeling adventurous, we also ordered the squid ink rice. Surprisingly, the squid ink rice was the rock star of the night. The calamari, served atop a bed of creamy, cheesy, pitch–black rice, melted in our mouths. It also stained our tongues and teeth black. Yet, being adventurous at Oloroso is definitely the way to go; safer dishes like the shrimp were nothing out of the ordinary. On the other hand, the patatas bravas,
TL;DR: Oloroso provides a specific tapas experience—fine, seafood–based dining with out–of–the–ordinary flare. Location: 1121 Walnut Street Hours: Mon–Sun: 5 p.m.–2 a.m. Price: $$$
served in a red sauce with a kick, were a welcome take on the tapas staple. For those who are feeling particularly daring, a chef's choice menu is available at $65 a person. While the seafood left me slightly queasy, I opted to settle my stomach with churros for dessert. The dish arrived with three warm, crisp churros covered in cinnamon and sugar, complemented by a chocolate dipping sauce. At eight dollars, it doubled as both the most delectable and the most affordable
dish on the menu. Oloroso took me out of my comfort zone and delivered wonderfully plated and, often enjoyable, dishes. Don't miss the squid ink rice, which we gobbled down by the spoonful, but opt out of dishes like the shrimp, which you could eat elsewhere for half the price. As we waited for our Uber, stomachs full and wallets empty, we looked back on the quaint location that, for one night, provided a unique dining experience.
Anab Aidid | Photographer 3 0 3 4 T H S T R E E T M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 8 , 2 01 8
DINING GUIDE
One Girl, One High-Rise Kitchen, One Week of Meal Prepping
How to meal prep like a pro in your dorm room Cat Dragoi There’s something about cooking that’s fascinated me since one memorable day in late middle school, when a burst of overconfidence pushed me to try and recreate a recipe of Asian lemon chicken tenders. In all honesty, I thought I did pretty well—until I tasted my creation, that is. Let’s just say “rocky” became the signifier for my budding relationship with cooking. One bad experience didn’t discourage me from trying again, though, and in the seven years that went by, I like to think that I actually learned a couple of things: 1) remember to sharpen your knives, 2) use all of your senses when choosing ingredients (“How do you tell what good bread is without tasting? Not the smell, not the look, but the sound of the crust”), and 3) take your time. That’s why I laughed when I first saw meal–prepping listed as an item on a list of life hacks. Sure, you might save time during the week by roasting four pounds of vegetables instead of two—but where’s the variety? And, most importantly, why would I even bother when there are 61 food trucks on Penn’s campus? The answer came in the
form of a realization: by that point, I had managed to get a good grasp on soufflés and even the intimidating Béarnaise sauce. But—and this was almost embarrassing— chicken was still the main character in my worst culinary nightmares. In an attempt to resolve our disputes once and for all, I decided to kill two birds with one stone and make an effort to also overcome my skepticism of the life hack. So, one rainy Sunday afternoon, armed with two full FroGro bags, I went into battle. I was fighting my worst culinary fears and biases. My goal was to conquer chicken by using ingredients and techniques I already knew weren’t too pretentious or time–consuming. The strategy involved cooking six different dishes—lunch for Monday to Saturday—using the same meat and side: baked chicken breast and roasted veggies. That wasn’t hard, but I was afraid I would get bored after the second day, so I needed powerful weapons to overcome my fear of monotony: sauces for diversity, toppings for convenience, and Greek yogurt for dessert, because why not? I armed myself with tips and tricks I found online before brainstorming recipes. The key, I found, was TL;DR: Meal–prepping is not as to use the most intimidating as it sounds. innocuous seasonings for the Price: $30–$40 per week or chicken and veg$5–$7 per day, depending on gies, making it where you buy the ingredients possible to later adapt them to
three different dishes inspired by Mediterranean, Asian, and Mexican cuisines. I combined olive oil with salt, pepper, and garlic, and then tossed in six boneless chicken thighs into half the mixture, keeping the rest for a mix of vegetables. I put both them both in a large tray. Then, the moment I was most afraid of came: it was time to cook the chicken. While waiting for the oven to reach 425°, I browned some onions, then added some corn and salsa to the pan. I seasoned the sauce with cumin and chili, and let it cool. My second sauce had a teriyaki base, with ginger, red pepper flakes, and cornstarch mixed together and then cooked on medium heat until bubbly. For the Mediterranean dish, I used plain basil pesto—unfortunately, store–bought. The meat and the veggies had to be roasted for 20 minutes, which gave me enough time to cook some brown rice. Before assembling my Tupperware, though, I had to cut the chicken into chunks, split them into three parts, and toss them and the vegetables into the sauces. Once that was done, I put some rice in four containers, added the teriyaki chicken to two of them and the salsa and corn mix into the others. I sprinkled a handful of crushed roasted peanuts on the first, and feta on the second. Voilà! In terms of lunch, four days were already covered. I took the pesto and coated the remaining chicken and vegetables, after which I filled four pita pockets with the
Cat Dragoi | Photographer
mix. Unsurprisingly, I spent more time deciding what to add to this final dish than I did actually cooking—it was ultimately between mozzarella and parmesan, or feta and tzatziki. At the end of the day, however, I managed to accomplish what I had set set out to do: the chicken was cooked perfectly. The entire affair, to my surprise, took a little over
an hour. At the close of the week, I was happy to call the operation a success. The dishes were a lot lighter than what you would get at most food trucks, and the fact that I had cooked them myself made me feel empowered. I wish I could say I’m going to do it again—surprisingly enough, it’s easy to eat good, healthy food without devoting too much time to cooking.
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Your one stop shop on campus for salads, soup, sandwiches and coffee has added yet another reason for you to forget about your dining plan. Kitchen Gia’s new juices feature seasonal ingredients straight from the farm
actually are. But don’t worry, if you’re in a rush Kitchen Gia will also have pre-bottled juices made fresh every morning for you to grab and go. The masterminds behind these juices have seriously thought through it all.
By Dina Zaret | Photos by Corey Fader
kale) shot to get your day going with some anti-inflammatory goodness. The juices then start out on the greener side, and slowly add more fruits to give you more energy as the day goes on. You finish the day 30–60 minutes before going
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This baby’s got pineapple coconut milk, coconut wate coconut oil and chia seeds a in one drink. It’s basically th healthier version of Buddy t