Close to the Water

22 Close to the Water

DOWN BY THE RIVER WITH FRIENDS

by Bruce Bateau

No matter where I’ve ventured, I’ve always found boaters a friendly crowd. But rarely have I been welcomed as warmly as I was a few years ago by folks at the Elochoman Marina in Cathlamet, Washington.

A quaint waterfront town, Cathlamet is about 30 miles upstream from the Pacific. While better known for fishing boats than rowing boats, I find it a pleasant and convenient place to experience the Lower Columbia River estuary; its shallow waters are a perfect place to explore via small craft. As I was stepping my masts on that first visit, two friendly fellows approached, examined Row Bird’s lapstrake hull, and started chatting away, almost as if they’d been expecting me. We talked for some time before I eventually launched, but only after promising to come back and row with them sometime.

I’ve returned to Cathlamet several times since then and even joined their club, the Lower Columbia River Chapter of the Traditional Small Craft Association (TCSA). The TCSA’s mission is to, “preserve and continue the living traditions, skills, lore, and legends surrounding working and pleasure watercraft whose origins predate the marine gasoline engine.”

Recently I caught up with Allen Bennett, one of the chapter’s leaders, who spoke proudly about the area’s rich history of fishing boats, such as the double-ended Columbia River gillnetters, as well as the local boat building families who have been around for generations, and who Bennett described as “anchors to our boating community.”

I was curious about how the group has weathered the summer and the pandemic. But there was no need for concern. Bennett, a retired geologist and Navy officer, exudes positivity about boating and hanging out with sailors. He and fellow

TCSA leader Julius Dalzell are like big gleeful kids when they start talking about events and getting out on the water with other boaters.

The TCSA has had two bona fide messabouts this summer, Bennett told me. Although the group’s membership extends from 60 miles upriver in Portland all the way to Long Beach, Washington, right on the ocean, a core group lives around Cathlamet. “They’re mostly impromptu affairs,” Bennett said of the gatherings. “We try to stay away from each other at the dock and just get out there and have fun.”

I wondered how Bennett’s Navy service influenced his feelings about boats, but it didn’t have much of an impact, he said. What did? “Growing up on Lake Erie and developing an appreciation for small wooden boats,” he explained. “In a way, my Navy experience with fast boats made me appreciate the quiet and solitude of sailboats, row boats, and kayaks — anything without a motor.”

The Lower Columbia members are on friendly terms with the marina, regularly meeting there for rowing or sailing sessions. On clear days the group might head out onto the main Columbia River, but if the weather is a little rougher, a variety of sheltered sloughs, channels, and backwaters are at their disposal.

One of the things I like best about the Lower Columbia group is that you don’t have to own a boat to be a member. They really want you to get on the water; to that end, several years ago the group built an Ian Oughtred-designed St. Ayle’s skiff. These double-ended rowboats hold four rowers and a coxswain. Bennett tells me that they make it out many weekends and are excited about teaching newbies to row or sail, as well as encouraging boatless folks to come along for a row.

Happily looking for wind outside Elochoman Marina.

Even off the water, members find community — through potlucks, sitting around a campfire together, or doing more boaty things ashore. The TCSA has occasional meetings, a boat show, guest talks, and even field trips to places like the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Dalzell’s pole barn serves as an unofficial boat storage yard and museum; another member, Michael Baccellieri, leads the annual construction of a small boat at his Welcome Slough Boatworks shop. Most years, the group builds and raffles off a boat, often a Salt Bay Skiff, with the proceeds going to fund club activities.

On an early October visit to Cathlamet, I was standing on a dock, enjoying the sunshine on a pleasant 65 degree day, and looking at the commercial fishing craft in the harbor. Bennett was keen to point out the club’s “chase boat,” a plywood replica of a 1940’s work skiff moored alongside. Although he didn’t have time to take me out that day, he smiled as he invited me back for the club’s next event: their annual New Year’s Day row.

“And if the weather stinks, you should come anyway,” Bennett said. “Because we can sit around talking, eating cinnamon rolls, and drinking coffee.”

That sounded pretty good to me. I know where I’ll be on January 1st.

A single rower in the St. Ayle’s skiff.

Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Ore. His stories and adventures can be found at www.terrapintales.wordpress.com