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Follow the boardwalk towards the centre of town and you will come to pop up food vendors offering the local delicacy ‘poutine’ (chips with curds and gravy) and the famous lobster rolls. I know which I prefer! In the summer you may come across an outdoor concert; our visit co-incided with the annual Mac n’Cheese Festival – quite an experience!
Maritime Canada by Sally Dowling
A Tale of Two Cities – Halifax & Montreal linked by VIA Rail ‘Ocean’ Service Having enjoyed many USA road trips, Canada seemed to be calling my husband and I. Our plan was a few nights in Halifax, Nova Scotia, followed by the overnight VIA Rail service to Montreal where we would stay for a further 2 nights. We were keen to discover two very different cities and enjoy the changing scenery through the region known as Maritime Canada. Halifax Just 6 hours flying time from London is the compact city of Halifax, Nova Scotia. Not much bigger than a large UK town, Halifax is capital of Nova Scotia and Canada’s important Eastern gateway with an impressive harbour. As your plane prepares to land you may find yourself asking – ‘where is this city?’ Mile upon mile of tree covered wilderness, with no buildings in sight is a bit concerning. Never fear, at the last minute Stanfield International Airport appears - welcome to Nova Scotia where you will never be far from a pine forest. On arrival you will be relieved to find that it doesn’t take long to clear immigration, the bonus of a small airport. Pick up a rental car or take the airport shuttle bus and in about 30 minutes you will be downtown. Halifax has a laid back and relaxed atmosphere which appealed to us. It has a strong maritime history and all the main city hotels are within easy reach of the historic waterfront. This was by far my favourite part of town whatever time of day. The 4km boardwalk has fabulous views over the ocean with thoughtfully placed traditional Adirondack chairs and inviting hammocks available along the way. At the southern end is the Cruise Terminal where the visiting liners dock for a day or two of sightseeing. Here you will find the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. A fascinating place where you can follow the timeline of immigrants, arriving from all over the world, who helped make Canada the successful multi-cultural country that it is today. Halifax Seaport Farmers Market is just next door and a great place to pick up a coffee and locally baked cinnamon roll whilst browsing local crafts and produce.
Also on the waterfront is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, a fascinating insight into the seafaring history of Halifax. Discover the emotional stories of both the Titanic Disaster, and the devastating Halifax Explosion of 1917 when nearly 2000 people lost their lives. Follow the part that Halifax played in WW2 as a major port for the North Atlantic Convoys and understand shipbuilding over the ages. A 2-day stopover doesn’t give you time for everything and Halifax boasts some great museums and galleries, immaculate Victorian Gardens and the Citadel – a national historic site. This star shaped fort is situated on the top of the hill overlooking the harbour and was built by the British to defend the city. The grounds inside the fort are open all year with guided tours available from May to October. Be prepared for the daily firing of the ‘noon day gun’, a tradition dating back to 1857. VIA Rail Canada From Halifax we took the VIA Rail overnight ‘Ocean Service’ train to Montreal. 24 hours on a train is quite an experience and made a change from driving. VIA Rail offers two main fare options – a reclining seat with access to a buffet car to buy snacks and light meals, or a sleeper cabin which includes meals and also gives access to a lounge with free WiFi and, of course, the iconic viewing car. Our cabin was bijou – I think that is the word to use! Swinging cats was not really an option but it did have full ensuite facilities and was very comfortable. We had been advised to check our suitcases into the luggage car and just take a small overnight bag on board, great advice. Our steward welcomed us on board at 1.00pm and explained how everything worked and we were soon feeling at home. Lunch was served within 15 minutes of us leaving Halifax, a full 3 courses including a rather delicious dessert! During the afternoon we joined fellow passengers in the viewing car, we swapped stories over complimentary snacks, coffee and tea, and enjoyed watching the countryside change from pine forests, across rivers, over vast plains and through small rural communities. Our route took us north
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