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and most notably so in the past decade. Completed in 2015, the City Gate Project was a dramatic rethinking of the entrance to the city, conceived by Italian architect, Renzo Piano. It took many years of wrangling and the injection of some serious EU funding to finally make it happen but, it really has given the city a new lease of life.
City Gates
Time travel in Malta – Cathy Bartrop returns to her childhood holiday island
I was 9 yrs old in 1970 when my Dad, on his commute home from London, saw a small ad in the Evening Standard to buy an off plan, 2 bedroom holiday flat in Malta for an unmissable bargain price. Within weeks he was off on an inspection flight to view the property (still a building site) in the south coast village of Birzebuggia that, for my teenage years, was to become our family holiday bolthole in the sun. At the opposite end of the island to the better known tourist resorts of Sliema and St Julians, there wasn't a whole lot going on in sleepy Birzebuggia but I have cherished memories of long, sun drenched days largely spent swimming off the rocks at St Peters Pool and snorkelling in the crystal clear waters. As distractions, we occasionally ventured in to Valletta or Sliema for some shopping, had firework filled evenings at the many village Festas and never missed a trip to the Ta Qali craft village but, back then, my holiday focus was clear... call me shallow but, for my sister and me, our sole holiday objective was to develop the deepest possible tan to show off when we got home. SPF was unheard of - we would rub liberal amounts of olive oil into our skin and literally fry ourselves to a crisp. I still love the heat but now, age 60, I finally know better and my devotion to sunbathing is over! So I was thrilled to be invited back as a guest of Visit Malta in September this year on a filming trip with a very different focus ... to take a look at what else Malta has to offer, beyond the obvious appeal of sun and sea. Spoiler alert...it was something of a revelation. I began my time travel in Valletta. My memories of the capital are of a noisy, chaotic place where it was nigh on impossible to park and, to my young mind, full of boring, dusty looking old buildings. Clearly I was blind to its charms back then so was blown away by what this vibrant capital, the smallest in the EU, now offers. No surprise that the city has seen many changes over the past 50 years but physically
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The old bus station is gone and the grand fountain, once swallowed up amid the chaos of traffic, has been restored to its original glory as the focal point of a wide piazza. This marks the pedestrianised route in to the city, following a bridge across the bastion walls leading to an inviting boulevard flanked by the limestone clad, angular shapes of the new Parliament building, the centrepiece of Piano's vision. Its smooth lines broken by intriguing, irregular blocks of 'eye-lid' openings in the stone. The design caused much controversy both for its construction cost and the visual concept. Locals, not without a hint of sarcasm, call it the 'cheese grater'. Modern design can often be divisive but, personally, I love the way it contrasts, yet compliments, the surrounding buildings. Adjacent to it, rising from the ruins of what was once the Royal Opera House (destroyed by Stuka dive bombers during WWII and subsequently used as a car park), there is now a magnificent open air theatre, pinned in place by the original Corinthian columns of the Opera House. And opposite, a row of beautiful, traditional buildings with the Malta's characteristic painted balconies. Collectively, these buildings set the tone for exploration of a city famed for multi-layered history but with its sights very much set on the future.
Parliament House Once they had repelled the invasion of the Turks in 1565, for the next 268 years under the Knights of St John, the money rolled in and Valletta was built within the safety of its fortified walls to rival other grand European capitals. The legacy is a city literally stuffed with fine Baroque buildings and prestigious palaces. Many of these buildings have now been converted for more modern purposes, in particular, as boutique hotels and restaurants. I stayed at the Domus Zamitello hotel, a charming, classic style renovation of a 17th century Palazzo. It has the most fabulous location, with a terrace bar overlooking the theatre and Parliament House.
