FOOD | 50 PLUS MAGAZINE
THEO RANDALL’S ITALIAN PANTRY Theo Randall’s passion for food was born from regular family holidays across Europe and from a young age he was destined for a culinary future. His career began as a waiter at London’s acclaimed Chez Max and after only a few weeks, Max Magarian noted Theo’s talents and invited him to work in the kitchen where he spent the next four years following an apprenticeship in classic French cuisine. In 1989, Theo joined the up-and-coming River Café and quickly found his culinary home with the legendary Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray MBE. After a year’s secondment cooking alongside Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, Theo returned to The River Café and brought inspiration from the bountiful Californian produce he had been working with. Theo then remained at River Café for a further 15 years as head chef and it was under his patronage that the restaurant received its first Michelin star in 1997. He left to launch Theo Randall at the InterContinental, which opened in November 2006. His commitment to delivering rustic produce-driven Italian food from the prestigious address of No. 1 Park Lane has earned him loyal followers and rave reviews from critics and food-lovers. While he is a regular on national television, including BBC One’s, Saturday Kitchen, Theo remains true to his culinary roots and can be found at the restaurant most services. He has published three successful recipe books: PASTA (2006), My Simple Italian (2015) and The Italian Deli Cookbook (2021), and his latest book, The Italian Pantry, released on 1 September 2022.
TAGLIATELLE WITH MUSHROOMS, PINE NUTS AND PANCETTA This recipe is a perfect midweek dinner; easy to prep and comforting to eat. There are lots of really good, dried egg tagliatelle pastas on the market – I always go for the brands Rumo or Giovanni Cocco. Or, of course, you could always make fresh pasta. Serves 2–3 Ingredients • 100g (3½oz) pancetta, cut into matchsticks • 75g (2½oz) pine nuts • 250g (9oz) chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced • 1 garlic clove, finely sliced • 1 teaspoon thyme leaves • juice of ½ lemon • 100g (3½oz) mascarpone • 250g (9oz) dried tagliatelle • 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves • 75g (2½oz) parmesan, grated, to serve • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method Heat a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. When hot, add the pancetta to the dry pan and leave it to cook for a few minutes, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is crispy. Add the pine nuts and cook for about 1 minute, until they are a light golden colour. Remove the pancetta and pine nuts from the pan with a slotted spoon and set them aside to drain on kitchen paper. Leave the fat in the pan. Add the mushrooms to the pan over a medium heat. Fry until the mushrooms have released their liquid and become syrupy, then add the garlic and thyme and fry for 2 minutes more. Add the lemon juice and 20
season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat down to low and stir in the mascarpone. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook for 2 minutes less than the packet suggests, then, using tongs, transfer the pasta to the pan with the mascarpone mixture. Add a ladleful of the pasta cooking water and stir through the parsley. Mix everything together with a wooden spoon and cook for 1 minute, adding another ladleful of pasta cooking water if the tagliatelle feels a little dry. Toss the pasta so it is juicy and coated in the sauce. Serve the tagliatelle in warm bowls with the crispy pancetta, pine nuts and a little extra parmesan sprinkled on top.
