Apartment Party

The owner of the Columbus nightlife cornerstone, Bodega, has launched a new speakeasy concept from the inside of a converted Short North apartment

By Melinda Green / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Tori Smith

The Short North’s newest cocktail hot spot is a tiny gem on High Street, tucked into the back of one of the neighborhood’s most popular restaurants.

Apt B literally is Apartment B of the space Bodega has occupied since its opening in 2005. When the building’s owner decided to offer it for commercial use two years ago, Bodega owner Brian Swanson jumped at the chance and started the renovation process.

It wasn’t without obstacles—the team ran up against a post-COVID steel shortage, and the architect passed away, necessitating newlydrawn plans—but eventually, load-bearing walls were removed, and the bathroom moved from the middle of the apartment to the back, where a kitchen once was. The long, narrow space barely resembles an apartment now.

During the renovation process, “We kept kind of saying, ‘OK, I'll meet you in Apartment B, I'll meet you in Apartment B,’” Swanson said. “We were trying to figure out what we wanted to call it, and we just decided to call it Apt B. We’ve got Bodega out here, that starts with B. So here we are.”

And by “here,” Swanson means expanding into new areas in more ways than one. “So, Bodega is very much beer focused and has been since 2005. It's kind of known for being the craft beer destination of Short North. And this is more cocktail focused, and more kind of a lounge,” he said.

Just don’t call it a speakeasy. Sure, it’s cozy and has a sliding barn door that shutters it from the restaurant. Sure, it’s not obvious that there’s a bar in there. But there’s no password and no membership fee; anyone can come in, any time the bar is open (Wednesday through Saturday, 6:00 pm to close). Swanson plans to advertise it just like he advertises Bodega.

“Bodega has been wildly successful and always needed more space, especially Thursday, Friday, Saturday night,” Swanson said. “So really, we just wanted additional space for our guests. We wanted to give them just a different atmosphere to come hang out in. So it's kind of a speakeasy vibe, but it's more really just an extension of Bodega.”

That speakeasy vibe pairs the modern Bodega style with Art Deco: leather and neon with vintage glassware and beautifully styled details. With a capacity of just fifty guests, Apt B is perfect for a couple of cocktails before or after dinner—or for a small private party. And when it’s full, put your name on the waitlist and grab a drink or a snack at Bodega.

Don’t fill up too much, though. Chef Bill Glover consulted on Apt B’s snack menu, which includes housemade chips with a whipped blue cheese dressing, tajinspiced grilled shishito peppers, cheddar gougéres with pimiento aioli, and ahi tuna with all the trimmings.

Garrett Tansel, formerly of the Detroit metro area, is the bar’s Beverage Director.

“A lot of the cocktails are just kind of fun riffs, obviously based off of the apartment theme that we're going for back here,” Tansel explained. “Classic pre-Prohibition cocktails—more light expression, if you will. A lot of focus on glassware, a lot of garnishes that you don't necessarily see. Fun flowers, edible glitter, different fun syrups that we all make in-house.”

Plus, fresh juicing, infusions like cherry-infused Campari or sage-infused tequila, and garnishes like fresh banana leaves and multicolored orchids, and these cocktails are a feast for all of the senses.

“There are a lot of cool cocktail bars around here. I wanted to try to do something that someone hasn't really seen in this area,” Tansel continued.

Something like the Security Deposit, a sunrise-colored, Last Word-inspired creation (and a nod to Tansel’s hometown) made with Watershed gin, Genepy, and, instead of the Last Word’s Luxardo, that cherry-infused Campari instead, and served in a ribbed coupe glass.

Or the velvety Neighborhood Watch, with a subtly perfect hint of orange and cherry chocolate atop rye whiskey. It’s a cold drink, but it tastes warm, and you’ll want a second one while you enjoy your surroundings.

Looking to party a little harder? How about a Degenerate Roommate, concocted for 2 or 4 people out of 11 ingredients including overproof rum, Velvet Falernum, house-made grenadine, and—wait for it—cuttlefish ink.

Yes, the cocktails fit the apartment-living theme, at least in name. So do the photos on the back wall of Bodega’s workers, like a family photo gallery. It’s homey and hip all at the same time. The team is still working on the finishing touches, but, Swanson said, “We want to make it feel like it's kind of what's been here for a while. It's really just an old apartment.”