Beauty Business T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L
April/May 2007
NEWS & INFORMATION FOR THE SALON PROFESSIONAL
natural innovative exceptional
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in this issue...
Beauty Business T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L
April/May 2007
NEWS & INFORMATION FOR THE SALON PROFESSIONAL
Website Editorial Director Editorial Enquiries
With Caroline Nelson
3 3 4-6 7 9
Budget Salon Skincare
Skin Rejuvenation Guide
10
Skin Rejuvenation feature
10
Establishing a cosmetic practice starts with the basics
13
Hair Removal Feature
13
SNEAK PREVIEW
14
Hair removal and fashion
What’s in store for our next issue?
Nail Business Nail News Nail Business Feature
What type of manager are you?
From the APFA
Laura Coppin M: 0411 601 824 E: laura@beautybiz.com.au
Art Direction & Graphic Design Linda Gunek Effective Desktop Publishing T: 02 8824 5135 M: 0418 110 673 E: production@beautybiz.com.au 10 Philippa Court, Kellyville NSW 2155 Pre-press & Printing
Fast Proof Press T: 02 9748 8166
Subscriptions
Sixth Sense Marketing & Productions E: subscriptions@beautybiz.com.au F: 02 6655 5537 PO Box 257, Urunga NSW 2455
Distributed by
Australia Post
Published by
Hair Removal Guide
News and information for your hair removal business Hair Removal news
Maggie May T: 02 6655 5507 F: 02 6655 5537 M: 0411 881 488 E: advertising@beautybiz.com.au PO Box 257, Urunga NSW 2455
Promotions Manager
Business Feature
News and information for your skin rejuvenation business Skin Rejuvenation news
Samantha Hawcroft T: 02 6679 3669 M: 0408 113 105 E: sam@beautybiz.com.au Lot 2, Bald Mountain Rd, Limpinwood NSW 2484
Sales & Marketing Director Advertising Enquiries
Contents April/May’07 Beauty Business From the Editor From the Sales & Marketing Desk Beauty News Business Coaching
www.beautybiz.com.au
ACN 095 323 452
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Tanning Business
does it accept liability for negligence resulting from the use of these products or equipment. The publisher will not be held accountable for any incorrect or omitted information, or for material which does not appear due to late arrival. The publisher accepts no responsibility for copy clearly marked as Advertorial, the responsibility and accountability for which lies with the advertiser who submitted the copy.
Tanning News 19 Tanning Business Feature 22 Location, location, location
TRAINING ACADEMY Accredited Certificate Courses Experienced...Professional Training in all capital cities BODY PIERCING & INFECTION CONTROL Ph: (03) 9432 1155 | Email: info@ezetraining.com.au | www.ezetraining.com.au
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The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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from the editor
editor
Fromthe W
ow – what a year this is shaping up to be! Everyone is moving in different directions while still aiming for the same goals – client satisfaction and salon profit. So, how do you achieve both? The answer is that if your clients are satisfied, salon profit should follow. This is true for any industry. Happy customers keep coming back – as long as the product and service are up to client expectation. But what do your clients expect? Do you even know? Have you asked them lately? Are there any treatments that they would come in for on a regular basis if you offered them? How do you know what treatments people want if you don’t ask them? There may be a number of treatments that you are not offering that clients are dying to try. ASK THEM! And, while you’re at it, find out if there’s anything you could be doing better. Better still, play the client one day. Forget the ‘mystery shoppers’ and other such measures. You should know better than anyone how you want your salon to be perceived, and if you would just play the client for a day it’s amazing how much information you will gain about your salon that you didn’t know when you were working flat out in it and it was sitting right under your nose. Walk in the front door and take on the persona of a new client. Are the front desk staff courteous? How long does it take for you to be acknowledged? Are you asked to fill in a ‘new client’ form? Are you left waiting long for your appointment? Does the salon look clean? Is the décor inviting? Is there an ambience about the salon that makes you feel welcome and at home? How was the treatment performed? Did you feel confident with the therapist? Did they make you feel good about yourself and refrain from making you feel like a naughty little school girl because you forgot to follow your skin care regimen this morning? Did they recommend some products for you to take home in order to maintain your skin between visits? Did they arrange to book you in for your next treatment?
Fromthe
OK…if you feel that doing this might feel a little contrived then go and do it for real. Go to another salon – one away from your local area if you are well known in the local community – and experience the perspective of a new client in a beauty salon. You will be amazed at how little things that are done well, done poorly, or simply not done at all, will jump out at you and give you some great ideas for making your salon a better place to visit. Let’s face it. We can all do better and none of us pretends to know everything about everything, so let’s jump on the bandwagon and share the great ideas around. By the way, talking of heading in a different direction, we have a great big surprise for you in our next issue but, of course, it wouldn’t be a surprise if we shared it with you right now so you’ll just have to wait until then. All I can say is, spread the word around. Tell everyone you know in this industry to get their hands on the next issue of The International Beauty Business and you won’t be disappointed! Until next issue, take care and relax,
Samantha Hawcroft – Editorial Director
sales&
marketing desk H
ello Readers,
This issue, April/May, will be the last time you will see The International Beauty Business magazine in this format. After seven years in production, as they say in politics, ‘It’s time for a change’ – and we will certainly be doing that. Our June/July issue will be a fantastic new-look magazine with the same familiar name, and the same important news and information you have always said is vital to your business. But the magazine will now be bigger and better with loads of interesting articles every issue, and so many other inclusions that you just won’t want to put it down. As this is my last column I know that you will enjoy and look forward to getting our future issues. We are really excited
about bringing you a creative, brand new looking magazine for our industry, along with an expanded creative team. Best Wishes to all, From the Sales & Marketing Desk Last thought: Every great leap forward comes after you have made a clear decision.
Maggie May – Sales & Marketing Director
April/May 2007 ~ The International Beauty Business
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beauty news
New figures paint bleak picture T
he latest economic reports on the state of the beauty industry have painted a dull picture of its current standing. According to the report, the effect of increased fuel prices, coupled with several rises in interest rates have reduced household disposable income significantly enough to slow the growth of the beauty industry. Where, once, salon clients would go to the beauty salon regardless of their financial status, today, they are more concerned about being able to fill their cars with fuel and hold on to their homes. In a report released in December, by IBISworld, the beauty industry was studied both as a whole, and as a collection of segments including beauty, nails, hair removal and hairdressing. The report highlighted the fuel and interest rate factors as the catalysts for the overall slowdown in the beauty industry and, while some households have now adjusted to the increase in their household costs, others who have perhaps overcommitted their finances initially are now struggling to cope. Household debt is now at an unbelievable level and, over the past decade, has increased at an average annual rate of 14 per cent, which is well in excess of the growth of household income.
As a result, the ratio of household debt to household disposable income in Australia has risen from a level that was low by international standards to one that is in the upper end of the range of other industrial countries. According to the Reserve Bank of Australia, a whopping 80 per cent of the average household’s income has been committed to mortgages, car and personal loans, and credit and store cards. Add to that the higher fuel costs and interest rates, health and car insurance, vehicle registration, weekly shopping bills, phone, electricity, water, council rates, strata levies, school and child care fees and all the other costs that go along with having children, and it’s no wonder people are struggling to make their weekly appointment to the beauty salon. Something’s got to give and it seems that the salon is it. As a result, the IBISworld report has identified an increase in the business failure rate in the beauty industry. Making the situation worse, is the salon’s natural instinct to engage in price-based competition by undercutting other local salons. According to the report, this is the worst possible thing that salons could be doing at this point in time. The report states that: ‘In order for salons to ride out the
current storm, salons need to stay away from price based only competition and, instead, focus on offering quality service, and some value-added, higher priced services.’ Salons may not have the same volume of customers that they once had, but it’s now time to focus on a different strategy and increase the spending per capita of your existing customers. There are always going to be customers who are not affected by the financial factors which seem to be impacting upon the majority of the general population and these customers should be courted and encouraged to spend a little more. Offer new services and give your existing customers a ‘preview’ of your new treatment by performing a mini version of it on them at their next visit. If they loved it, then there’s no reason why they won’t want it done next time they come in for their regular treatment – only, next time, they have to pay for it! Focus on the clients you DO have, not on the ones you have lost. Those clients you have lost are not a symptom of anything that you have done, but of an economic situation that is beyond your control and the only thing you can do is to soldier on and keep going, only now it is time to go in a new direction.
And, while you’re taking steps to increase your revenue, look for ways to decrease your expenses. Is your rent too high? Have you bought state-of-the-art equipment when less expensive equipment could do just as well? Are you paying too much for your product ranges?* All of these areas can be analysed with a view to cutting back, and selling items that you no longer use or can substitute with something less expensive can also be a good way of taking the pressure off. Reports claim that tanning is virtually the only growth segment remaining in the beauty industry, so, if you don’t already offer this service, get onto it! And, if you DO already offer this service, find ways of increasing it by targeting the general public with special offers or promotions to both new and existing customers. There IS a way forward and although things may seem to be progressing slowly, it is always better to be moving than not at all. Keep moving and realize that what you are going through now is only a small part of the bigger picture that you have been working towards. Your initial goals are still alive and you will eventually reach them if you stick with it. *See our Affordable Skin Care feature on Page 9
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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OLD PAGE
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beauty news
Highest ever penalty for resale price maintenance T he Federal Court of Australia recently ordered penalties totalling $3.4 million against four Jurlique companies and founder Dr Jurgen Klein. In a follow-up to our December issue, Justice Spender in the Brisbane Court made the orders in proceedings instituted by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission. The court declared that the Jurlique companies and Dr Klein engaged in resale price maintenance in the sale of Jurlique products between 1991 and 2003. Resale price maintenance is prohibited under section 48 of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and occurs where suppliers prevent retailers discounting their products. Until late 2003 Dr Klein was the managing director of Jurlique, a group of Australian companies which manufactures and sells a range of premium skincare, cosmetic and herbal products. Dr Klein set the policy against discounting and was involved in all aspects of the conduct. The conduct was deliberate, was the result of a long-standing company policy and affected retailers in Australia and internationally. The contravening RPM conduct involved: *Attempting to induce retailers not to sell Jurlique products at prices less than
the prices specified by Jurlique from time to time; *Withholding supply of Jurlique products for the reason that the retailer had sold the products at prices below the retail prices specified by Jurlique; and, *Using in relation to Jurlique products statements of prices that were likely to be understood as the price below which products were not to be sold. The court also declared that one of the Jurlique companies, in operating its day spa stores, entered into an arrangement with Melbourne franchisees in March 2001 to fix prices for Jurlique treatments. “This is a case of deliberate conduct occurring over several years, and involved the most senior executive of the companies,” ACCC Chairman, Mr Graeme Samuel, said.. “The size of the penalties is consistent with the ACCC’s view that RPM is serious anti-competitive activity. “RPM removes the freedom and ability of those affected retailers to discount if they wish to compete on price or promote their businesses this way. In the ACCC’s view it consequently affects the prices which we all ultimately see on the shelves, as consumers. “This serves as a warning to suppliers pressuring retailers not to discount – such conduct will not be tolerated.”
Do you want fries with that? S
mall businesses could take a lesson from McDonald’s to improve their bottom line. You’re not in the business of selling burgers and fries, you might say. But the bundling technique used so successfully by McDonald’s can be applied in virtually any business. Business coach Rob Hartnett says bundling is a variation on what is known as up-selling. “Instead of selling additional products at full price, the customer is offered a combination of products/services at a discounted price,” he says. Mr Hartnett, the author and coproducer of the just-released book Small Business, Big Opportunity, says using discount pricing is leverage to have a customer commit more money than they first intended spending. “If you ever go to McDonald’s, KFC, or any of the other fast food outlets, do you purchase or at least look at the value meal range offered?” he says. ‘A men’s fashion store can offer a bundled deal on purchase of a suit, with special discounts on an extra pair of trousers, shirts, ties and belts. ‘A hair and beauty salon can offer a hair treatment, facial and nail treatment for a special price.’
Mr Hartnett says business owners need to be creative to ensure they are offering good value. And, while we do not advocate discount pricing in the beauty industry, the benefit here is that the ‘discount’ built into the bundle is actually a means to an end, and that is the process of making more money on volume. A discount on a single service is, in itself, a loss of revenue. A ‘discount’ on a package deal results in the salon making more money on the volume of services combined because, in spite of the discount, your client is actually spending more money than they originally intended. If you had not advertised your special beauty value deal, you would have only ever received the same old amount of money from that client for a set of nails, or for another client who comes in for a facial, or for yet another client who only comes in for hair removal. Now you’ve got all those single-treatment clients spending far more than they originally anticipated because they have seen the value of your offer. Now that’s what I call increasing spending per capita! To order a free copy of Small Business, Big Opportunity call Sensis on 1800 886 680.
OLD PAGE
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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business coaching
Enhanced customer service is like money in the bank
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n the last issue we discussed hiring the right therapists for your business, the type of therapist that enhances and not distracts from the business and its ideals. Now we will take that one step further and discuss the importance of enhanced customer service that starts with courteous and professionally trained staff. Ask any salon or spa owner if customer service is important and they will generally tell you it is critical to their business success. The trouble is that sometimes our or our employees’ perception of great customer service and the customers can be two different things. A common complaint of customers is that “I asked for one thing and received another.” Now the problem can be that many customers do not necessarily explain their requirements fully and in fact many expect the therapist to be a “mind-reader” or “clairvoyant”. The thing is that, with good communication skills, that’s just what the therapist will appear to be. Many customers without even realizing it will be giving little hints and clues. Little indicators to their real wants, needs and desires. The perceptive therapist will pick up on these indicators and will be in the position to deliver what the customer wants. And customers will love going to this communication skilled therapist because
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“She knows me so well, I always get what I ask for - in fact she knows even before I do what I really need.” So make sure your team are all communication skilled. It will grow your business and increase customer loyalty. Enhanced Communication Skills delivers Enhanced Customer Service
Communication is the process of conveying messages. When it is effective, the result of the message is shared meaning and common understanding. These are the Key Steps to Developing Good Communication Skills, they are: 1. Listening – practice supportive listening, not one-way listening, listen for any second or hidden meaning and be active in the listening; 2. Understanding – showing empathy by identifying with the customer “I know how you feel….” This will encourage the customer to open up and share with the therapist; 3. Asking Questions – to gain information that clarifies what is wanted and allow problems to be solved; 4. Observing – non-verbal behavior and body language as well as appearances can speak much louder than words; 5. Building Rapport – that magic feeling of trust when the customer feels and
sees that they and the therapist are on the same ‘wavelength’. This builds therapist respect; 6. Building Credibility – by communicating and sharing knowledge with their client the therapist is seen as the “expert” by the customer and is perceived as the professional who they want to treat them; 7. Honesty – by recommending all treatment and home care requirements that are necessary to solve the customers’ skin, body and wellness concerns, the client appreciates the recommendations to keep their skin in the best shape; 8. Building Relationships – by delivering the promised results each and every time, you are building a relationship of trust with your customer. It is important, just like any personal relationship, that a therapist follows through on their promises and does what they say they are going to do. While in many other types of business technological developments have dehumanized service, we in the beauty industry are in a unique position in that we are allowed ‘close personal contact’ with our customers. And this should and must be seen as a privilege. Unlike the medical fraternity,
except for perhaps waxing, we don’t cause pain or discomfort to the client and, most often, only deliver good news. People like coming to us, so let’s capitalize on this good fortune, and develop a relationship that ensures everybody is happy – every time. The key to increased profits is directly linked to customer satisfaction. And there is no better way to retain existing customers than to have them enjoy our company and to leave happy after every visit. Happy customers spread the word about your salon or spa, they are a precious commodity and their referrals are like money in the bank. Caroline Nelson is the author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business For $uccessSalon, Staff Policies Procedures & Systems manual including the “Managers Induction and Staff Training Manual and the recently launched Multimedia CD ROM staff training series designed to support team development and increase sales. For further information on how she can help grow your business please contact Caroline on 07 55 381 362 or go to the website www. nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com
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beauty news
Liz Hurley puts Turmeric on the Beauty Map
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sed since antiquity as a condiment, textile dye and aromatic stimulant, Turmeric is an integral part of Indian life, tradition and culture. Used in religious ceremonies, festivals and wedding rituals, where it is called ‘Haldi’ (in Hindi), Turmeric is derived from Sanskrit Haridra, which literally means ‘that which improves the complexion.’ During the Haldi ritual, a paste of Turmeric, Milk and Cream is applied to the face, hands and body of the bride and groom to cleanse, purify and beautify, and that’s exactly what Liz Hurley and her new groom did during their recent nuptials. OmVeda spas and salons offer this treatment using an exotic blend of detoxing herbs like Turmeric, Red and White Sandalwood and Orange Peel that, in combination, balance many skin problems because of their purifying and skin softening properties. Since Turmeric’s brush with fame, it
has taken on a whole new celebrity of its own and has become hot news in beauty. It now stands alone as a remarkable, potent and all natural ingredient that defends the skin against a myriad of concerns. Turmeric is nature’s pickme-up acting as a natural antibiotic, strengthening digestion and improving intestinal flora. It purifies the blood, stimulates the formation of new blood tissue while also promoting a balanced metabolism by correcting excesses and deficiencies. Profound for its ability to neutralise toxins that cause damage, Turmeric aids the skin’s repair process, softens skin tissue and de-stresses the skin. “No longer a beauty myth, Turmeric has come of age” comments Yasmin Sadikot, OmVeda’s creator who has long known its powers. “As a topical skincare ingredient, Turmeric’s powerful anti-oxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties, which lie in the curcumin, (extracted from the root) make it a potent two-in-one ingredient,” she said. “Rich in natural Vitamin C, it is an outstanding skin enhancer, significantly reducing expression lines, improving tone and maintaining moisture in the skin.” Helping to neutralise toxins, strengthen and brighten the complexion, the OmVeda Turmeric Cream contains anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits and, in addition, its special organic complex contains Lemon Juice, Saffron, Oils of Almond and Sandalwood and Indian Barberry to help stimulate blood circulation. For best results wet the hands and massage gently into the skin morning and night. For the treatment of cellulite after a shower or bath, towel-dry the body and apply a small amount to dimpled and cellulite affected areas. Then, using active and persuasive strokes, massage
into the skin (using wet hands). Massage should be firm (similar to kneading dough) which helps to soften the tissues under the skin and break down fatty deposits. The product can also be used on the upper arms and over the entire leg and onto the feet. For more on the OmVeda range of skin, hair and body products, treatments or training please contact 1 300 662 383 or visit www.omveda.com.au
Award Winning AminoGenesis arrives in Australia
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breakthrough in skincare technology, AminoGenesis is set to revolutionise the Australian beauty market with its advanced Amino Acid formula. A world first for the skincare industry, the 17 amino acids in the AminoGenesis formula have been purified and blended to match the optimum amino acid composition in collagen. No other skin care formulation can approach this level of perfection. Amino Acids are the building blocks of life and the main moisture retention factors in human skin. Without Amino Acids, the skin simply cannot function correctly.
Topical application of amino acids has shown to dramatically increase moisture content while decreasing the appearance of lines and wrinkles. In addition, Amino Acids help in the production of collagen and elastin, regulate sebaceous gland activity and decrease discolouration. AminoGenesis is advanced skin science. Its sophisticated delivery system allows it to penetrate deep into the skin, to deliver maximum moisture, amino acids, nutrients and humectants so that the skin has the necessary amino acids to repair itself. AminoGenesis is an advanced line of seven (7) products developed for all
skin types and can be used to improve a multitude of skin problems, such as acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, sun damage and wrinkles. The AminoGenesis formula has been used in thousands of hospitals, Dermatologists. Oncologists, Cosmetic Surgeons, Anti-Ageing Doctors, Salons and Day Spas world-wide. The line comprises Really Really Clean, Therapeutic Facial Repair, Counter Clockwise, Perfect Reflection, Photolagen, Tripeptinon and Cocoon. For more information call Beauty Warehouse on 1 800 624 267 or visit www.beautywarehouse.com.au
Products exclusively available from Totally U Australia Pty Ltd
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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business overhead feature text
Budget salon skincare I n these tight economic times, many salon clients are foregoing their regular monthly facials and nail appointments in order to pay their mortgages, fill their cars with petrol and put food on their tables. As a result, many salons are feeling the pinch, because their regular clients who once represented the bulk of the salon’s income are no longer as regular as they were. This then produces a domino effect. The clients are no longer coming in, so the salons do not need to buy as much product from the suppliers, so the suppliers hold back from advertising their products to the salons. In order to offset the lack of clients, some salons are looking for ways to cut their costs, and that’s great – but why settle for running a business which services only half the clients it once pampered? Cutting costs will put a little more money back into the salon, but it makes even more sense for salons to try and get their regular clients to return by making it more affordable for them to come and have their favourite treatments. So, how can salons make it more affordable for their clients to come back and have their treasured beauty treatments, without compromising their already depleting profits? At present, many attribute their lack
of profit to the cost of producing the treatment. And the only way for salons to reduce treatment costs is to look at what product ranges they are using. Many salons use a higher priced product because they perceive that it offers better results, but this is not always the case. Clients have spa treatments for the experience – feel – touch – smell – texture, all of which can be supplied equally well with mid-range and lower priced products. So, why not make it easy for your clients to come back to you, and to keep coming back, time and time again. Don’t be afraid to make the change to a different product range. When times are tough, people have to do whatever they can to make ends meet and often that means, eventually, taking a dramatic step if you haven’t managed to get on top of things after a certain period of time. Remember, it’s not just a matter of price when looking for a different product range. Not only are there affordable product ranges out there, but within product ranges there are also some great individual products that can help your client save money. For example, look for all-in-one face creams with SPF and anti-ageing properties, all-over body creams instead
of separate creams for every part of the body, multi-tasking products such as 3in-1 Cleanser/Toner/Exfoliants, and tinted moisturizing creams with SPF15 to offer hydration, protection and a sun-kissed glow in one. And, while we’re talking about multitasking, what about make-up? A lip and cheek stain is a great money-saver offering translucent, natural-looking colour your client can apply with their fingers, on the run. What else can we do to help our clients save money?
Look at the packaging of our product ranges. Are we buying expensive branding and superfluous packaging and passing these costs onto the client, or is there a real reason why the product is packaged in this way? Remember, sometimes packaging provides a level of protection, for example retinol needs to be in aluminium tubes as it’s affected by UVA/UVB light, and that can affect the price. But superfluous packaging of some prestige brands is uneccessary. Clients in tough times seek salons with benefits – offer a mobile beauty service that can go to your clients home or, for real time out, offer the services of a crèche. Nicole Gunnis runs the Yummy
Tudor ... a real-value-for-money company!
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t’s really gratifying for me to know that after starting from scratch thirty two years ago, Tudor Beauty Products is still going strong! When we started, the annual Sydney Beauty Trade Show consisted of about thirty exhibitors displaying their wares in a couple of rooms at the Wentworth Hotel. Nowadays the Trade Show is huge with many of the big companies spending hundreds of thousands of dollars on spectacular stands at the Darling Harbour Exhibition Centre. Well, the competition has certainly become stiffer but we’re still here and still serving the Beauty Therapy profession. So how has Tudor changed over all those years? Well, of course, our cosmetic chemist is constantly accessing the everimproving range of modern raw materials so new products have been introduced and older ones deleted. But, apart from that, the answer to the question has to be “Not much!” When you’re small, three things that give you an edge are high quality, fair prices and a strong emphasis on customer service. Tudor has been established, developed and sustained on these precepts and we are proud of that as well as the fact that our components are locally sourced and all profits stay in Australia. So, how do we maintain our valuefor-money reputation? Our overheads are low (no fancy headquarters) and our advertising is minimal. I would doubt that our advertising budget was more than one ten thousandth of some of our multinational competitors. And, how do we achieve sales? How do we maintain our presence? The answer can be summed up in one word - ‘reputation’! Word of mouth advertising
is the most powerful of marketing tools! Tudor offers a concise range of high quality, value-for-money beauty treatment products which are sold exclusively through beauty therapy salons, spas and training colleges. The range covers cleansers, moisturizers, tonics, masks, green and red French clay, massage products, AHA’s [fruit acids], exfoliants and scrubs, eye balm and pressed oils including Certified Organic rose hip, jojoba, olive, sunflower and macadamia oils. And, naturally, we don’t use or condone animal testing of skin care products. We don’t ask for salon exclusivity and we don’t ask for large minimum orders. We’re happy to supply our clients just the amount they’re comfortable with, although we do suggest starting with a selection of three of each product so that a good display can be set up. We supply most items in salon and retail packs and, if you want to, you can promote our products to your clients using your own salon label. Let us know if you want to do this and we can supply products unlabelled. Does every one of your clients buy product from you before leaving your premises? We suspect not. Yet those clients will stop at the local chemist to buy a moisturizer! Do you enjoy missing those sales? Of course you don’t! So, why not give yourself that competitive edge and call me at Tudor on (02) 9453 3872 or one of my distributors at the numbers given below? You’ll be so glad you did! Tudor Distributors: NSW Millers Salon Supplies [02] 9890 2084 Vic Salonquip [03] 9822 7800 Qld Amba Nail and Beauty Supplies 0419 785 244
Mummies salon in Paddington, Sydney, where time-poor mums can have full service pampering, including hairdressing, while children relax in the Yummy Mummy crèche. “All you have to do is rock up with your child,” she explains. “When clients leave us they feel relaxed and look fantastic, [with a] positive frame of mind – and their sanity back!” Sanity is certainly something that a lot of women need right now and for those that have had to cut back on childcare because they can no longer afford it, this should be no reason why they can’t go and have a ‘refresh’ every now and then. You don’t have to offer a complex ‘creche’ set-up. Just someone who is responsible enough to watch a limited number of children while your clients relax is all it takes, and just watch your client numbers increase before your eyes. OK – let’s recap! Things you can do to make your budget-conscious client come back to the salon: • Start using an affordable in-salon skin care range; • Look for all-in-one, multi-tasking products; • Look at our product range packaging. Is expensive packaging really necessary?; • Offer a mobile beauty service; • Set-up a crèche service.
By Isabel East, Managing Director
Fantastic Skin Care. AffordAble prICes. GreAt for sAlon profIts.
Call Isabel on (02) 9453 3872 or fax (02) 9971 0684 for a free brochure & price list.
April/May 2007 ~ The International Beauty Business
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skin rejuvenation guide
skin rejuvenation
Revolutionary new deep wrinkle serum
Retail advertising adds to client misinformation
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revolutionary deep wrinkle serum has been developed to combat the onset of persistent deep wrinkles. Strivectin-HS is a unique penetrating formula developed to support the integrity of the Dermal-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) - the wavy, thin line of cells between the dermis and the epidermis, which represents a critical area in the fight against wrinkles and ageing. New research strongly suggests that as we age, the DEJ ‘flattens,’ reducing overall surface area, weakening the bond between the dermis and epidermis and, thus causing the formation of persistent, deep wrinkles. In other words, reducing the appearance of deep, sharp facial wrinkles is tied directly to fostering the structural integrity of the DermalEpidermal Junction. StriVectin-HS is the first and only thermophyllic (heat-activated), penetrating formula specifically developed to enter the core of the DEJ where deep wrinkles begin. “StriVectin-HS travels directly to the base of deep wrinkles, decompressing the look of sharp, visible creases from the dermal substratum upward and outward to the skin’s surface,” said Dr. Daniel B. Mowrey, Ph.D, Klein-Becker’s Director of Scientific Affairs. “This product dramatically reduces the appearance of pronounced deep wrinkles, enlarged pores and stubborn surface imperfections.”
But isolating intrinsic support for Dermal-Epidermal Junction was just the beginning. “As with so many new discoveries, the most efficient dosage level and delivery mechanism had yet to be defined,” said noted Manhattan dermatologist Dr. Deborah S. Sarnoff. “Finding a way to deliver that compound to the interior core of the DEJ took another five years to perfect.” The product is applied with the fingertips directly to the most pronounced wrinkles at the corners of the eye, between the brow, around the lips and down the nasolabial folds (the deep lines that run from the edge of your nose to the corners of your mouth). Wait one to three minutes or until the serum becomes dry and slightly tacky to the touch. You must then soak a clean facecloth in hot (not scalding) water (wring out excess water) and hold it firmly to your face for sixty seconds or until the towel cools.Because StriVectin-HS is so effective at reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles and pronounced pores, and facial imperfections, you only use it twice a day until you achieve the results you desire, then one to three times per week to maintain your skin’s optimum appearance. Strivectin-HS can be used in conjunction with microdermabrasion treatments for optimum results
osmeceutical technology remains at the forefront of skin rejuvenation, but skin professionals are concerned that the advertising associated with these products is confusing their clients. “The problem with today’s cosmeceutical advertising is that it oversells the benefits of products in the marketplace,” said dermatologist Patricia Farris. “Can these products make your skin look better? Of course they can. But are you going to get benefits comparable to prescription retinoids or (from) office procedures? Absolutely not.” The benefits of retinol are well documented, but products need to be formulated at the right concentration and pH in order to be effective. With retinol, there are stability issues that must be addressed during formulation. Retinol is sensitive to light and oxidation, according to Dr Farris. According to Dr Farris, there are plenty of products that can work to prevent damage in skin which is already healthy, but misinformation occurs when clients assume that these products can fix existing damage. “Green tea is a perfect example of how clients can become misinformed,” Dr Farris said. “There are animal and human skin studies confirming topical green tea as an antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory and even as a chemopreventative for skin cancers.” But the question is, does it do anything to improve the appearance of skin that is already damaged? It appears that the jury is still out according to at least one recent study in which clients applied a green tea cream and took oral green tea supplements for eight weeks which failed to show any improvement in the appearance of sun damaged skin when compared to controls. “We need more studies like this because at least it attempts to answer the questions that clients are really asking. They want to know, ‘If I use this stuff will I look any better?’” said Dr Farris. The truth is, according to Dr. Farris, the regulating bodies do not scrutinize cosmeceutical advertising to a great degree, so unsubstantiated claims often stick in the minds of clients. The bottom line determining factor, she said, is science. “It is all well and good to put it in a test tube with fibroblasts and find out that it turned on collagen production. But that does not tell me that if clients rub it on their skin they are going to look any better,” she said. “Dermatologists are always going to want to see well designed clinical studies.”
Establishing cosmetic practice starts with basics B uilding a successful cosmetic practice from scratch requires starting with low-risk treatments geared to one’s skills and interests, says a cosmetic office practice expert. Procedures
Dr William Philip Werschler, a cosmetic dermatologist, said that offering procedures of relatively low cost, lowrisk and high satisfaction provide the perfect gateway to a successful cosmetic-medical practice. He recommends following a descriptive methodology on levels of cosmetic practice he developed in 1994 which requires identifying where one stands — and where one aims to go — relative to the following practice levels: * General beauty therapy with no significant cosmetic practice. * A salon offering limited or specialized cosmetic services. * A blended salon providing general beauty therapy and most or all major cosmetic medical procedures. * An exclusively cosmetic medical practice. “It’s like a journey — one should have a destination in mind,” he said. “Then one decides how to get there.” The latter decision requires first analyzing one’s resources and capabilities, he continues. Factors to consider here include the location and name of one’s salon, the nature of the existing client base and the possibility of regulatory restrictions against adding cosmetic medical services. 10
Adding New Procedures
Regarding one’s skill set, it’s important to identify whether one has recently learned cosmetic procedures, or whether one will require substantial training to learn how to use lasers, injectables and the like. Staff resources
“Staff resources can make or break a salon’s success,” Dr. Werschler adds. In this regard, he warns, “If staff members don’t like what one is doing, they’ll sabotage you for sure.” Financial resources
Financial resources and time commitments also require consideration, he says. While one can learn to use some treatments effectively and safely during a weekend course, mastering techniques for other treatments can take six to 12 months before one is comfortable, Dr. Werschler notes. Therefore, he says, “One must have a timeline for the introduction of new services.” In light of the above analyses, Dr. Werschler said it’s generally best and easiest to start at the bottom of the cosmetic pyramid to develop a loyal client base for the procedures one can do well, then slowly move up the pyramid to add more involved, invasive procedures as one’s experience and client base expand. “I call it a salon transition plan,” he said. At one extreme, he said, it’s common for practitioners to become enamored of a new laser or technology at an industry conference, then purchase
it only to find they have no space or expertise to use it. However, in the early stages of setting up a cosmetic-medical services salon, it’s much more important to focus on the name, location and physical décor, as well as accessibility issues. “Remember, cosmetic patients aren’t sick people who must use one’s facility. They’re ‘desire’ patients. They’re not going to put up with a hard-to-access salon with elevators and remote parking garages. Accordingly, he recommends looking for a free-standing or low-lying building, preferably in a suburban location near new housing, a ready source of potential new clients. Tracking
Running a successful cosmetic-medical salon also requires ongoing monitoring, Dr. Werschler said. “One must set up one’s financial tracking systems to look at strategic business units (SBUs) and the growth potential in each unit,” he said. One also must be willing to give up some aspects of the business in order to improve other aspects, Dr. Werschler adds. For example, highly successful laser practices may not do many injectables, and vice versa. “It’s not about having a template to buy some new equipment and start doing a lot of advertising. Rather, it’s to determine market needs and whether one will be happy filling them,” he said. Therefore, he said, one must have the right skill set personally, including
the ability to sell oneself and one’s salon, to remain upbeat and to listen to clients when they choose a product or procedure other than the one that’s been recommended. According to Dr Werschler, cosmetic patients can be incredibly demanding — and sometimes litigious, but it is up to you, as the provider of these services and the representative of your business, to explain the downsides of a particular treatment being requested, as well as its potential effectiveness, or lack thereof, for their particular condition. While, at the end of the day, you may refuse to perform the service the client has requested, at least you have explained the reasons why, instead of just offering a flat out ‘No’. Measuring patient satisfaction
As for measuring client happiness, Dr. Werschler said the client’s subjective analysis carries more weight than any objective analysis. Accordingly, he said that in desirebased businesses such as the beauty industry, one occasionally must be willing to listen to clients berate one’s work because they’re subjectively displeased, even if one knows one has provided top-notch results. In such instances, Dr. Werschler says a little handholding goes a long way, as does keeping a positive approach in directing the client’s attention toward a solution. “One’s staff must be trained to do the same,” he adds.
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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3/4/07 10:34:23 AM
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28/3/07 12:36:27 AM PM 3/4/07 10:34:28
nails feature
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hair removal guide
hair overhead removal news text
`Shaving’ via light lamp More to waxing promises low irritation than meets the eye A
device that uses light to send hair follicles to sleep, making skin smooth for weeks at a time, without shaving or waxing, is being patented by a major manufacturer. Laser light can be used to kill hair follicles by making them so hot that they literally explode. But such destructive “photoepilation” is painful and can also cause skin irritation. Researchers in the Netherlands, have found that short, weak pulses of near infrared light cause follicles to change from their natural growing state to a dormant state, known as the ‘telogen phase’. The device uses light from a halogen lamp. Pulses lasting 15 milliseconds each are filtered so that only 600-950 nanometre wavelengths reach the follicles below. Moving the device slowly over the skin spreads about 15 joules of light energy onto each square centimetre. A sensor can also be used to automatically adjust treatment intensity to suit different skin and hair types. According to the manufacturer, three treatment sessions, over the course of two weeks, reduces hair growth by 90%.
The present invention discloses a method for controlling growth of hair on human skin with low doses of electro-magnetic radiation, and a device for carrying out the method. In the method, radiation of a suitable spectrum is applied to the skin, in one or more pulses of between 1 and 100 ms, and with maximum fluencies on the skin between 1 and 12 J/cm2. By applying such low fluencies and at controlled pulse durations, follicles of the hairs are induced to the catagen phase. This means that the growth of the hairs of those follicles will stop. Although the method is not primarily aimed at immediate hair removal, hairs may be shed subsequently. In any case, further growth may be stopped for prolonged periods of time. The main advantage of the method is that the risk of damage to the skin is minimized. In particular, the device is being hailed as a revolution for people suffering from rosacea who have been looking for a way to remove facial hair safely without causing further iritation.
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here is more to waxing eyebrows than meets the eye, and the general public are letting us know, loud and clear. Disgruntled clients have made their feelings known about the poor treatment they have received at the hands of beauty therapists who believed that they were doing what the client had asked. According to one client, what she asked for was the complete opposite of what she got. “I went to a Melbourne beauty salon last week to get some waxing done on my legs and bikini line and, when my waxing was done, I told the therapist that I had lost my tweezers and if she could please ‘tidy up’ the growth on my eyebrows, just the growth, and not to make my eyebrows thinner as I wanted to keep a ‘natural’ look.” “During the procedure, I reminded her, ‘Samantha, please don’t make them thin, just tidy up the new growth’. But when she was finished, she gave me a mirror and I was shocked to see what she had done to them. “She had completely re-shaped my once “natural” looking eyebrows. I said, ‘You have made them thinner!’,
and she responded by saying that she had ‘just tidied them up a bit and made them even’. “When I got home, and had another look in the mirror, I noticed that she had not only made them way thinner, but had also made one thinner than the other, so I called her supervisor who apologised profusely and offered me free waxing services on my next visit. “I told her I never wanted to use any of her services again.” Another client from a different salon agreed. “I HATE it when they screw up waxing your eyebrows,” she said. “It is so noticeable. It’s the first thing people see when they look at you and there’s nothing that can change the shape of your face more dramatically than ‘re-designed’ eyebrows.” According to this client, the wax that was used on her eyebrows was so hot that it left big burn marks underneath her eyes. “I’m not sure she even tested it before she slathered it all over my face,” she said. “I had red eyebrows for over a week, and after that the skin began to peel off.”
Hair removal and fashion W
hen Julia Roberts flashed under-arm hair at a film premiere there was uproar. But one woman, at least, wants to overturn prejudices and has taken a New Year’s resolution not to shave. Shazia Mirza is a self-confessed ‘hairy woman’. In fact, she is so hairy, she describes herself as ‘trapped in a man’s body’. Until recently, though, few others would have known. Like most women, Shazia has dedicated a significant part of her adult life to hair removal. “I have done everything to remove my hair. I have waxed, shaved, used my dad’s lawnmower. It has taken so much time, so much effort, so many red blotches,” says the 32-year-old comedian. All that stopped at the start of January, as Shazia took a New Year’s resolution to shave no more. The evidence is already starting to show. “The hairs are growing quite nicely, and I am now in a position to have my armpits styled and waxed, and my sideburns permed. I am learning to love my hair.” Her stance may be extreme, but in casting aside the razor, even temporarily, she is in good company. Julia Roberts, Drew Barrymore, Elizabeth Jagger, even fashionista Trinny Woodall, have all had a hairy moment - usually involving armpits. When it comes to the female body, hair is one of the last taboos. When
Roberts flashed her hairy armpits at the premiere of Notting Hill in 1999 it caused uproar and made one thing crystal clear - hairiness will not be tolerated. Amazed by the fuss, she said: “On a day-to-day basis I don’t think about my armpits.” Not so your average woman. A recent study found that 99% of women removed some hair, most commonly from the underarms, legs, pubic area and eyebrows. Shaving and plucking were the most common removal methods. It is a rapidly growing market. The female population of the UK is now estimated to spend £280m a year removing body hair. Like so many other things, the rise of hair removal can be closely linked with fashion. The first commercial for a female hair removal product was in 1915 when Harpers Bazaar printed an advert which showed a woman in a sleeveless evening gown which exposed her perfectly shaven armpits. At the same time, Wilkinson Sword launched a marketing campaign at women and within two years, sales of razor blades had doubled. The bikini wax followed the invention of the bikini in the 50s, and the Brazilian wax - where nearly all the pubic hair is removed - arrived in the 80s, along with the thong. But women’s hair removal is
neither a modern, nor a purely Western invention. In ancient Egypt it was common practice as the presence of any body hair at all meant you could only belong to the slave class. Historical accounts of women’s hair removal have been linked to Greece, the Trobriand Islands, Uganda, South America and Turkey. In the 1970s bra burning feminists put their razors aside as a form of political statement, but today women who object on principle still feel pressured into removing body hair. People’s natural bodies are seen as needing disciplining into an ideal, says Merran Toerien, who has researched gender and body hair. “Hair is seen as masculine,” she said. “Historically, medically and in the media, it is nearly always associated with men. Shaving female body hair is seen as a way to differentiate between the sexes. “Society dictates that female body hair should be tamed and looked after, women are not allowed to let their bodies just be. Interestingly men are starting to feel they have to live by the same rules and are removing more and more body hair.” People who don’t conform to certain standards of appearance are seen as somehow lacking. “Body hair on a man is seen as rugged but on a woman it is viewed as
sweaty and smelly,” said Ms Toerien. “Women who have body hair are viewed as not taking care of themselves.” Professor Stevi Jackson, Director of the Centre for Women’s Studies at York University agreed. “Over the years body hair on women has been viewed more and more as a monstrosity and dealing with it has become more and more draconian,” she said. “It is about conforming to standard and if you don’t you are viewed as unattractive and ungroomed.” Women with body hair are even perceived by men and women to be more aggressive and immoral, according to a study by US psychologist Dr Susan Basow. Non-hairy women are seen in a generally positive light. But who are women shaving for? According to researchers, it is not as simple as saying they do it for men. “It is not about being seen as beautiful,” said Ms Jackson. “It is about conforming, not standing out.” As a stand-up comedian, Shazia Mirza is less worried than most about standing out in a crowd. “Every woman has hair. This is a fact. It is a natural thing that all human beings are born with, and it’s about time hair on women was celebrated not condemned.”
April/May 2007 ~ The International Beauty Business
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beauty news
Beauty Business THE INTERN AT I O
What’s in store for The International Beauty Business magazine? W ith all the buzz about the upcoming changes to our long-standing magazine, you could be forgiven for wondering what the hell is happening around here! First of all, let me say that this decision has been a long time coming and now that we have finally made it we are so excited about the future of the publication you have been receiving at your business over the past seven years. After consultation between ourselves and discussions with other people in the industry, we decided that our magazine was looking decidedly old and tired. After all, we have just completed our 38th issue and with very few changes in that time it’s now TIME for a dramatic change. So, what can you expect to see in the greatest ever upcoming issue of our industry magazine? You will see a range of news stories covering all aspects of beauty – skincare, nails, hair removal and tanning, and a move away from the serious business features that we have been writing for you over the past seven years. The beauty industry, more than anything, is about people! It’s about you. It’s about the product manufacturers, the distributors, the salons, and the products and treatments. We can throw all the business figures and profit margins in the world at you, and tell you ways to increase your beauty business’ profitability but, at the end of the day, you are still going to want to see someone who has actually put these ideas into practice, and succeeded!
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As a result, we want to get more of you in the magazine. Each issue, we are going to be profiling the owners of successful salons and product suppliers around the country who can show you exactly what they did to get where they are, and explain what is working for them, especially during these tough times. What better way to learn the steps to success than by way of real life examples – proof that it CAN be done. And, believe it or not, most of these people struggled at the beginning too, just like we all do when we are trying to run a business in its early stages. But it’s what they have done since that time which now sets them apart from the rest, and with some hard work, and the right advice, you can get there too. Let’s face it. We’re all doing something we love, right? Otherwise, why would we bother? So, if we’re all in business for the long haul then we may as well grab hold of as much information as we can get our hands on and apply it to what we do on a daily basis. No-one makes money overnight in this business, or, generally, in any business really. And, at the end of the day, the beauty business is all about the clients because they are what bring in the rewards, both monetary and otherwise. But the happiness of these clients comes back to you and, in this sense, you really have the power to influence how much money you generate. So, in order to be the best you can be for your clients, you have to take care of YOU!
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NEWS & I NFORMA
TION FOR THE SALO N PROFES SI
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natural innovative exceptional
Goodbye to the old
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Get uplifted and get motivated. Our new and improved version of The International Beauty Business plans to help you with this by providing you with real stories of everyday people, just like you, who have struggled, survived and then thrived! And the best part is that they are quite open and willing to share their secrets with you. Speaking of secrets, there is so much more great stuff in the new magazine that we can’t even begin to tell you about it – and one section in particular is going to ensure that you never want to put the magazine down, but you’re going to have to put it down at some point in order to read the next one! From June 2007, get ready to have the time of your life in the beauty industry and remember - it’s all about YOU!
3/4/07 10:34:42 AM
nail news
Women deserve right to healthy, safe workplace R ecently, women celebrated International Women’s Day to commemorate our ongoing struggle for social and economic justice. In the early 1900s, women worldwide protested the harsh working conditions in sex-segregated jobs including garment and domestic work. Facing political, economic and social inequalities, women staged strikes and rallies to demand better pay, safer workplaces and an end to discrimination on the job. Now, nearly 100 years later, women in Australia have made important advances. In the United States, however, far too many women remain exposed to unsafe working conditions and particularly to chemicals known to cause a variety of health problems. Workplace chemical exposure is often an invisible threat, presumed a necessary evil by workers who either have little information about their rights or are constrained in their ability to exercise those rights. Nowhere is this more evident than in nail salons, where on a daily basis workers face serious health hazards as a result of overexposure to a toxic soup of ingredients found in nail polish, acrylics, glues, disinfectants and more. While the customers who go to these shops for manicures and pedicures come into contact with the potentially harmful
chemicals infrequently, the workers encounter them constantly. The evidence shows great risk in constant exposure to these chemicals. Most workers are said to be unaware of the health risks involved, dismissing concerns because there are no warnings on the bottles pointing out potentially harmful chemicals. Workers frequently complain of chronic health problems such as nose bleeds, infections, skin rashes, headaches, dizziness and difficulty breathing. While some workers have taken to wearing dust masks, it only screens out large particles and many chemicals still seep through. In 2005, more than 85,000 nail salon workers were registered in California. Approximately 80 percent of these workers are Vietnamese immigrants, often women of child-bearing age. Day after day, these women pamper and beautify their customers while putting themselves at risk for serious occupational illness. Chemicals in nail products are known to cause asthma, respiratory irritations, and skin problems such as eczema. Worse still, certain chemicals found in nail salons can increase the risk of cancers, including breast cancer, and, in pregnant women, may increase the risk of birth defects. Although there is no established biochemical pathway so far connecting birth defects or cancer to a particular
exposure, the warning signs are emerging. Far too many ingredients of products typically found in salons are known reproductive toxins and carcinogens. Each year, a list known as ‘Proposition 65’ is released by the Governor which contains a list of chemicals known to the state to cause cancer or reproductive toxicity. At present, ingredients such as toluene, formaldehyde, dibutyl phthalates and other chemicals used as nail polishes, hardeners and glues are on the Proposition 65. Last year, the state approved a law to get cosmetics manufacturers to reveal if any of their ingredients are on the Proposition 65 list. To this day, however, the ingredients remain ‘trade secrets’. Lack of health insurance, language barriers and fear of retaliation can leave nail salon workers with few options to independently improve their workplace conditions. Nail salon workers -- and their customers -- can only control so much. The cosmetics industry bears a huge responsibility to ensure that the products they manufacture are safe, both for workers and consumers. Worker safety laws must protect women who work with toxic chemicals. Immediate changes such as culturallyappropriate health and safety training for nail salons, use of ventilated worktables and proper storage and mixing of
chemicals are critical first steps. It’s time to examine the cosmetology and beauty industry and the chemicals commonly used to see what health risks they pose for customers and, especially, the unwitting work force. The industry must list the chemicals used in its products to help identify substances that could cause health problems. In some cases there are alternative chemicals that could be used, even if they’re more expensive, that would be safer. Just because these people are recent immigrants, we shouldn’t ignore the working conditions and possible health risks their occupations pose. As we celebrate women in all aspects of life and honor their strength, brilliance and passion, let us also acknowledge that they deserve a right to healthy and safe workplaces regardless of occupation. Women should not have to make the impossible choice between a toxic job or no job at all. This was true in the early 1900s and remains so today. Ultimately, only comprehensive chemical policy reform in California aimed at the development of safe alternatives will offer true protection to workers and consumers. Now is the time to exercise precaution and develop health- protective standards for chemicals used in occupational settings.
China Glaze at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week - Smashbox Studios, LOS ANGELES
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oing backstage for its third Fashion Week season, China Glaze lacquered the nails of the runway models for the Tart show, an LA based contemporary line which showed at Smashbox Studios, Stage One on the night of March 19. The stylish, sexy silhouettes were set off by the fabulous nails created by manicurists Teresa Hamm and Kimmy Kees. Tart designer Sherry Roozrokh chose the China Glaze colour, “Vintage”, a deep and deliciously rich burgundy for the models. China Glaze introduces more new colour collections per year than any other brand, giving the professional access to the most-in-demand shades immediately.
The nail lacquers are designed with the professional in mind offering the highest quality nail lacquer base available for maximum performance. For greater coverage, the non thickening formula is thinner and has a higher saturation of pigments and dyes so colours are richer for a more even distribution of colour without brush drag or blobs of lacquer. The advanced long wearing formula with hardeners ensures durability and strength and contains Special Adhesives that act as anchors to secure the polish to all nail types and Plasticisers to provide flexibility and guard against chipping. The 220 strand brush gives ease of application.
Please call Hawley™ International on (02) 9317 2980 to find out more on the China Glaze Nail Lacquer collections or email info@hawley.net.au to find out what’s hot in colour this season.
Salons join anti-abuse campaign A campaign designed to help abused clients has been working wonders within the American beauty and nail industry. Originally launched in October 2004 by the YWCA in Wichita, the program, called Salons of Hope, aims to involve salons in the fight against domestic violence. The goal of the program is to make salons a safe place where victims of domestic violence can receive information and resources for help. The program was endorsed by Kansas Attorney General Phill Kline in August of 2005 with plans to implement the model program throughout the state and eventually grow it across the nation.
The salon is often a place of comfort that makes women feel as though they can say what is on their minds or talk about their problems. Additionally, nail techs are often privy to bruises and other signs of abuse that the rest of us may not see. For these reasons, salons are in a unique position to offer help to victims of domestic violence. For those in the nail business, it’s more than doing manicures and pedicures and providing artificial nail services. They become listeners to their clients’ joys and sorrows. “It’s an incredible bond,” said Paula
Dahlberg, standing near her salon chair at Salon Keiji in Sugar House. “You watch these people graduate from college, get married, have children. You watch them change.” Dahlberg, who has worked at the salon for 12 years, said she has had several clients confide to her that they are victims of spousal abuse. “You know how they act and you can see the change,” she said. “You feel helpless, you don’t know what to do. But you know that you want to do something.” Now, the Utah Attorney General’s Office is enlisting more than 25,000
licensed nail technicians in a national program against domestic violence that teaches them the signs of abuse and where their customers can get help. “We are the link to people out there. We are the ones who see the change in their behavior,” said Utah Cosmetology Association president LuJean Tatton. Participating salons in The Salons of Hope program will distribute information to suspected domestic violence victims, such as telephone numbers for crisis centres and safe houses. The information also will be placed in salon restrooms, where clients can get the information in private. April/May 2007 ~ The International Beauty Business
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Nail Business
Guidelines for Cleaning and Disinfecting Manicuring and Enhancement Equipment
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hese guidelines outline procedures cleaning (sanitising) and disinfecting all types of equipment used during manicuring and enhancement services including items such as manicuring bowls, pushers, nippers, clippers, abrasive files and buffers. In the salon, all tools, implements, devices or other pieces of equipment must be properly cleaned and disinfected before it comes into direct contact with a client, as required by the licensing rules and regulations of your region, state or country. Proper Cleaning and Disinfection
Just about everything in the salon has a hard or soft surface of some type. Some examples are manicuring tabletops and arm cushions, finger bowls, towels, files/ buffers, implements, etc. Any of these surfaces coming into direct contact with a client’s skin is considered “contaminated”. All contaminated surfaces must be thoroughly and properly: 1) cleaned and then 2) disinfected. To be considered properly clean, a surface must first be thoroughly scrubbed free of all visible signs of debris or residue (contamination). Proper cleaning is the total removal of all visible residue from every surface of tables, tools and equipment, followed by a complete and thorough rinsing with clean water. (See below, Methods of Proper Cleaning) Proper cleaning (also called sanitizing) must be performed before continuing with the disinfection step. Proper disinfection is the destruction of potentially harmful or infection-causing microorganisms (pathogens) on a precleaned surface. (See below, Methods of Proper Disinfection) Disposable (Single Use) items
Items that the manufacturer designs to be disposed of after one use are called “disposable” or “single-use”. These items must be properly disposed of after one use on a single client. Reusing these items is considered an unsanitary, improper and unprofessional practice. Some examples of disposable items are: cotton balls, gauze pads, wooden implements, disposable towels, toe separators, tissues, wooden sticks, arbor bands/ sleeves for electric files and certain abrasive files and buffers. Items damaged during the cleaning and disinfecting process are considered singleuse and must be discarded after every client. Proper Product Application
Some types of products can become contaminated if improperly used. Some examples are: creams, lotions, scrubs, paraffin wax, masks, and oils. These products must always be used in a sanitary manner that prevents contamination. For example, paraffin and nail oils should not be applied with a brush (or spatula) that has touched the skin. These practices may introduce bacteria into the product and cause contamination that can render products unsafe for use. To avoid product contamination always: (a) Dispose of used or remaining product between clients; 16
(b) Use single-use disposable implements to remove products from containers for application or remove product with a clean and disinfected spatula and put product to be used into a disposable or disinfectable service cup; (c) Use an applicator bottle or dropper to apply the product. Proper Disinfection of Multi-Use Tools and Equipment
Some items are designed to be used more than once and are considered to be “multi-use”. Multi-use items are sometimes referred to as “disinfectable”, which means that the implement can be properly cleaned and disinfected while retaining its usefulness and quality. Multi-use items are designed for use on more than one client, but require proper cleaning and disinfection between each use. Examples of multi-use items include cloth towels, manicure bowls, nippers, pushers and certain abrasive files and buffers. Multi-use varieties:
items
come
in
three
1) Hard and non-absorbent items constructed of hard materials that do not absorb liquid, i.e. metal, glass, fiberglass or plastic. These should be cleaned and disinfected as described below; 2) Porous and/or absorbent items constructed of materials such as cloth or wood with surfaces that may absorb or are penetrated by liquids, i.e. scrub brushes for nails, cushioned abrasive buffers, cloth towels and chamois. They should be cleaned and disinfected as described below; 3) Self-disinfecting items that will not support the growth of bacteria, viruses or fungi. Examples are application brushes used for nail polish, primers along with artificial enhancement application brushes. Due to the nature of these products, the brushes do not require disinfection and should be cleaned, used and stored only as recommended by the product manufacturer. Individual Client Packs
Tools/instruments kept in individual packs must be properly cleaned and disinfected after each use. If a client provides their own implements/tools, they must be properly cleaned and disinfected. State rules require all tools and equipment to be disinfected before being reused, even if used by the same client! Improperly cleaned and disinfected implements may grow infection/disease-causing organisms before the client returns for their next visit, thereby increasing the risk of infection. Never use air-tight bags or containers for storage as these can promote bacterial growth. Methods of Proper Cleaning
Proper cleaning requires liquid soap/ detergent, water and the use of a clean and disinfected scrub brush to remove all visible debris and residue. All items should be scrubbed with a clean and disinfected scrub brush under running water. Cleaning is not disinfection; disinfection is an entirely separate step. (In our next issue)
Message from the President Competing in a Nail Competition We have had notification of two Nail Competitions for this year: Australian Aesthetic Expo Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre, Broadbeach, Qld 23rd & 24th June Ph: 07 5575 9364 for information International Beauty Expo Sydney Exhibition & Convention Centre, Darling Harbour, NSW Email: enquiries@ internationalbeautyexpo .com.au I thought that I would give those of you who wish to compete, some idea of what the Judges are looking for. Floor Judging Hygiene Procedures Sanitation products must be properly labelled. Sanitation procedures must comply with relevant APFA sanitation practices in accordance with Health Regulations throughout Australia. Sanitation products must be used where relevant (absolutely at the start of the competition). Methods of disinfection – Implements/files must accompany a labelled receptacle to contain implements for sanitisation on completion or disposal of files into the rubbish. Professionalism/Presentation Professionalism and Presentation includes: • Hair tied back • Suitable attire • Posture whilst working Desk Presentation includes: • Clean towels and desk mats • Desk to be clean, tidy and presented well throughout the procedure • Work habits well organised (files kept neat, etc) • Sealed bag for disposal of rubbish • No clutter • Overall Appearance • Colour Co-ordination • Hygiene and Professionalism Screen Judging Side view Stress Arch: nice gentle arch from cuticle to the free edge. Nail must be well balanced. Side wall Alignment: the artificial extension should match the free edge and be continued/extended to compliment the overall shape. Barrel Contour: is the opposite of the C-Curve, and the overlay medium should be applied in a smooth and symmetrical manner. The sidewalls should be evenly placed when looking down the barrel. Cuticle Blending: cuticle area should be finished evenly and blended to a flush finish at the base of the nail. Soft Tissue Damage: there should be no cuts, abrasions, grazes or blemishes
to the cuticle area and surrounding tissue. Surface Imperfections: the surface must not be marred by any scratches, dents, lumps or any other imperfections, and nails should be buffed to a high shine. Colour Distinction: Clarity of product application, distinction of white smile line. There should be no evidence of marbling or air bubbles. Underside Appearance: no seepage of product or adhesive visible. The free edge of the natural nails should not be visible and there should be no dust or excess filings left under the nail. Overall Shape: all nails should be consistent in length and shape from finger to finger and hand to hand. The length of the free edge should not exceed half the length of the natural nail plate with the shape complimenting the shape of the hand and the nail bed. Polish Application: should be smooth and give maximum coverage without contaminating cuticles or skin. There should be no polish visible on the underside of the nail. Nail Art Sections
Flat Nail Art – Intricate Intricate nail art can be done by using any medium such as hand painting or air brushing. Judging is done solely on the floor. You will be judged on: Artistic Ability: what methods are used to create the design and how skilled is the competitor in utilising these. Difficulty of Design: is the competitor mixing paints or using certain paints that are harder to use. Is the competitor doing fine line work? Overall Appearance: does the design follow a particular theme and has it been carried out on all ten nails. Does it look messy or well presented and striking? Flat Nail Art – Salon
Salon Flat Nail Art uses artwork like striping, decals, marbling. Which one would usually do in the salon. No fine art brushwork is allowed. You will be judged on:
Artistic Ability: how well is the competitor using the artwork to create the theme? Difficulty of Design: how many different art items are used together to create the design. Which art items are more difficult to apply? How fragile are the art items being used. Overall Appearance: do the nails carry a theme and does it flow through all ten nails. Does the design look attractive or messy and mismatched?
I hope all these tips will be helpful if you are thinking of competing. Until next time, Mindy Hamilton APFA President
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
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nail news
What type of manager are you? P
roblem solver or crisis manager? It’s a matter of style. There are three types of managers consistently running salon businesses: the crisis manager, the problem solver, and the problem preventor. In many cases, one manager may even claim all three styles. The crisis manager is constantly acting as a fireman, running with a fire hose from one crisis to the next. She jumps on whatever issue is the hottest (usually whoever is screaming the loudest), but is too busy fighting the fire to see what the problem is. The second type of manager, the problem solver, not only fights the fire but also understands the heart of the problem and works on solving it. The third type of manager, the problem preventor, not only fights the fire and solves the problem, but then takes steps to ensure that the problem doesn’t occur again. One of the keys to success in a salon or product distribution business is to establish and adhere to systems for all aspects of the business. Within the marketing of your business, you can establish systems for lead generation and tracking to determine if you are getting the best return for your marketing dollars. Look at the last time you lost a job and became a problem preventor. Identify why the client didn’t sign with you and make the necessary changes to prevent this from happening again. Inventory management is another area where systems can be implemented. Procedures and checklists can be established in the salon for everything from verifying the receipt of product to issuing purchase orders that are coded correctly to minimize posting errors. Develop written procedures for processing invoices that include matching the invoice to the purchase order. Within financial management, you can establish systems that encompass budgeting through developing and reviewing financial reports. Review your financial reports in a systematic format. The best way to analyze your income statement is to start with the top section, where overall revenue, costs, and gross profit earned from your jobs are reported. To understand what these numbers are telling you, you will need more detailed information from supporting reports that include detailed job cost reports that agree with the revenue, costs, and gross profits reported on the income statement. Start by looking at your overall results for the period broken out by open and closed jobs. Is the work you are currently doing proving to be more profitable than work you have completed in the past? Why is this? Have you started offering any new treatments lately? Next, examine margins by the type of work you are doing. Did margins on
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your traditional treatments – manicure, pedicure, full set - come in according to plan? After identifying the areas of major concern, you need to start reviewing variances on your jobs that make up the major area of concern. For example, a certain treatment carries a planned margin of 20%. Margins on past similar treatments were reported at 19.5%, while current treatments only showed an overall gross profit of 15%. In order to identify where this slippage is occurring, you need to review the margins of this treatment by looking at any variances – things you are doing differently. Are you using a different, more expensive product range than you used to for this treatment? Is your nail technician taking longer than usual to complete the treatment? Are people being given discounts that you don’t know about? The problem solver will dig deeper by reviewing the detailed job cost reports on every one of these treatments performed to identify the source of the problem. Once the reason for the problem has been identified, the problem preventor steps in and asks, “What can I do about it?” The problem preventor looks at the existing systems to determine what changes need to be made to modify the system so that she won’t have the same problem next time. If, for example, she finds that the nail technician has been taking longer than usual to perform a manicure, she can either discuss this issue with the nail technician, or build a greater labour cost factor into the cost of the service. If there is a cheaper, reliable product that can be used, she (the salon manager) can implement into the salon to lower operating costs. And, if discounts are being offered without her knowledge, she can have the shortfall deducted from the pay of the nail tech doing this until her books balance up again. Within job cost management, you can establish procedures for collecting and analyzing job costs. Make sure your accounting system is tracking job costs correctly. For example, if you estimate labour dollars using an hourly rate that includes burden, make sure that your accounting system posts both gross pay and labour burden to the job. Systems can also be established to manage cash receipts and disbursements as well as forecasting cash flow. Understanding and systematizing your business management systems will lead to higher profitability and a more smoothly running organization, moving you from a crisis manager to problem solver to problem preventor.
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Tanning Business tanning news
High end lotions cause a stir T
anning salons have been questioning their stocking of high end lotions after losing a raft of business to discount sellers. According to one salon owner, staff work hard getting their clients to buy expensive lotions, only to find that they then go and find it somewhere infinitely cheaper. “Are we screwing ourselves selling the high end lotions? Are we spending too much time pitching $70-$100?,” he asked. “You work hard to get the clients into a $70 bottle, then they go and buy it for $35 on E-bay the next time.” So, how can a tanning salon ‘work’ their lotions to make a profit? One idea is to look for lotions not found on the Internet. That way, you can suggest a lotion to your clients, and foster a ‘relationship’ between the them, knowing that once they are stuck on it, they can get it from you, and only you. Another option which helps keep clients loyal with buying lotions from you is to give them a kick back. One example is to ‘kick back’ some of their purchase into a ‘bonus bucks’ account for future purchases. Be sure to let your clients know that you have
this program. Another way is to kill two birds with one stone by offering a free upgrade tanning session with the bottle of lotion. Most clients don’t want to go back once they’ve tried the bigger tanning units, but some just won’t try on their own. Whatever you do when selling your high-end lotions, don’t discount. Discount a lotion by $20 and you lose $20. Add a big VHR tanning session to the purchase and it only costs you $1.50. The customer sees it the same. You see it as making $18.50 more. Finally, use your lotions to encourage clients to book a package of tanning sessions – for example, have two separate prices on all your lotions, one for package holders at a small discount, and the other for non-package holders at full suggested retail. Although we have just said ‘don’t discount’, this is not really considered to be a discount because you are actually gaining more business (a package of tanning sessions) by doing so, as opposed to just discounting a lotion and gaining nothing extra. Try these methods of selling your high-end lotions and you’ll be amazed at the response.
Warning for spray tanners after nurse sues A nurse from Dorset in England who suffered a severe allergic reaction to a spray tan treatment is suing the manufacturer for compensation because of the injuries she received. Her solicitors are now inviting other people injured in spray tan units to come forward with details of their injuries to form a ‘class’ action. Mrs Sharon Jones, from Birch Close in Wimborne, was injured during her visit to the Oxygen Beauty Salon in Poole, Dorset on 17th November 2005. According to Mrs Jones, soon after she used the tanning booth she started to develop a rash on her neck which spread across her face and body. “The instructions from the manufacturer did not warn me about any possible reactions to the treatment and I have never had any allergic reactions before,” she said. “I was in agony for weeks afterwards.” Keith Whitehead, of national law firm Russell Jones & Walker, acting for Mrs Jones, said the firm had commenced a legal claim against the tanning booth manufacturer, Instant Tan Europe Ltd from Rochdale on behalf of Mrs Sharon Jones. “We understand that there may be other people across the country who
have also been injured in such units because the product was not tested on them beforehand and we ask them to come forward with evidence of their injuries,” he said. “Instant Tan Europe Ltd provided the salon with this automatic booth in which Mrs Jones stood while the tanning process took place, but the company failed to instruct the salon to conduct a patch test on her prior to the tanning taking place. “In fact, the salon followed the instructions given by the manufacturer and these neglected the need for a test patch. “These tanning products can be dangerous and, given the widely known risk of beauty products causing allergic reactions, it is prudent for manufacturers to instruct salons to conduct a patch test on their client’s skin before starting the process to test for any negative reaction. The manufacturer failed to do this. “Mrs Jones suffered a serious allergic reaction, starting on her neck. When she woke up the next day her face was red and blotchy, her eyelids were swollen, and there was also a rash over much of the rest of her body. “The rashes stayed with her for approximately two weeks and she
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April/May 2007 ~ The International Beauty Business
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tanning business feature
Location, location, location W
hen people are trying to start a business, they often seek the counsel of others who have been in their situation. For those that have a business, or even those that went out of business, one of the most important pieces of advice they can give a potential owner is where to locate. As the old adage goes, the three most important aspects of opening a new business is location, location, location. Study the Area
Knowing where you want to open your tanning salon is the first step in any business plan. Starting with a general area, and moving down to more specific locations, business owners need to consider more than the size of the space. They need to consider traffic flow, view from the street and distance from competition, otherwise known as a ‘needs assessment’. A needs assessment is the cornerstone of any good business plan and a definite start to finding a prime location. Where you are going to draw your business from? Are you the type of business that draws from street traffic or are more of your customers centrally located so they come to you? These are considerations for all businesses. For small business, such as a first tanning salon, work with local agencies and government departments to figure out such things as job market and zoning
22
ordinances - most government agencies offer information for free or at a nominal cost compared to hiring a demographic consultant. However for companies that have the money but don’t have the time to do all the foot work, hiring a demographic consultant eliminates the properties that will not work - fine tuning the location search. Demographic studies are, of course, very useful when working on a business plan and may, in the long run, be worth the original investment, however, small businesses do not often have the budget to do large demographic profiles of the area that include shopping habits, median age and housing studies. Therefore, one of the best pieces of advice current salon owners can give future owners is to locate near major retailers and chains opening in the same area. Large chains and retailers can spend, and do spend, thousands of dollars studying the population, housing and buying habits of the area they are about to purchase. They also tend to conduct in-depth traffic flow studies to create better land use around their properties. By locating in an area that contains a large superstore or chain, small-property owners are aligning themselves with bargaining power for the future. Know your audience
Knowing who the salon will sell to
is a necessary trick of the trade that can mean the difference between success or failure. Often equipment manufacturers or local franchise operations will help in creating a demographic survey of the surrounding area, making the decision to locate easier for the salon owner. For any business, there are key needs that have to be met in order to be successful. Customers - how you get them, where they come from and how you will capture new ones - are the backbone of all operations. Business owners should look for the 100-percent corner, or the one location that everyone, from pedestrians to commuters to public transportation, can see from any vantage point. The ‘100-percent corner’ is a location that provides maximum exposure to the business, making success almost definite. Salons need that visibility, and their success depends on attracting customers to the shop. Finally, try to find an area that is continually seeing both population and economic expansion. Projections generally are available at the Australian Bureau of Statistics and include information such as population levels, households, age and income. The inside counts
Knowing demographics and finding the perfect location will do nothing for the salon if there is not ample room
for the creation of a professional salon. Customers continually are looking for a salon that has the look and the respectability of a professional business. Size is a very important aspect in making a location decision. Most small businesses originally start out renting a location and must consider what will happen when they grow and need to expand. Space limitations come with the creation of an indoor tanning salon. Separate rooms for the beds, as well as front counter display space and a lobby area are all considerations a first-time tanning salon owner must contemplate. Other issues include the dictations of local zoning ordinances. If the property is not zoned for service, placing a tanning salon could mean more work than necessary. Yet, when a salon owner comes across the perfect location, he or she would be hard pressed to forget it because of a zoning requirement. Going before the local council could be as easy as proving you are bringing in a viable industry. In addition, most equipment manufacturers and even tanning supply distributors can assist new salon owners in the creation of a blue print for almost a complete turn-key operation. Know where to look for advice and work with experienced indoor tanning professionals to create the ultimate salon from the getgo.
The International Beauty Business ~ April/May 2007
2 Tanning Business • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2006
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