FALL 2022 SUPPORTWITHFROM 12 All About Apples Scott Farm Orchard’s heirloom fruit tastes of history 10 Holy Orders Get thee to a live show at Brattleboro’s Stone Church 16 Peak Experience An adventure guide’s pro tips to excursionsautumn
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FALL 2022
New owners of the historic Swift House Inn in Middlebury have freshened the look and forged new connections with the cultural community. A similar revival is happening in Brattleboro, where the Stone Church brings rock gods — and other divine musicians — to an erstwhile house of worship, creating a bona fide southern Vermont scene.Finally, we chatted up a Green Mountain Adventures guide for a new perspective on old recreational pastimes. Read on for trailblazing tips on peaks and creeks — then go peep some leaves!
SUPPORTWITHFROM VICTORIAN REVIVAL 6 New owners infuse historic Swift House Inn with artistic energy
BY MEG MCINTYRE KEN PICARD JORDAN BARRY New
HEART AND SOIL 18 Taking in the fall harvest at Charlotte’s Philo Ridge Farm BY
BY CHRIS FARNSWORTH
ON THE KatherineCOVER:Brennan at Ethan Allen Park in Burlington PHOTO BY ARIELLE THOMAS
Crisp, sweet notes of apples and woodsmoke in the air. Going out of your way to step on that crunchy leaf. Orange pumpkins in the patch. Some hallmarks of autumn never change, but in this issue of Staytripper, Seven Days’ road map to rediscovering Vermont, what’s old is delightfully new again.
In Dummerston, Scott Farm Orchard takes its heirloom apples and, for the first time, ferments them into hard cider — it’s one more way the 1791 farm keeps history alive. Likewise, in Charlotte, Philo Ridge Farm has transformed a six-generation dairy operation into a dining destination dedicated to sharing the story of the soil.
— CAROLYN FOX, EDITOR BY MELISSA PASANEN
GET INTO GEAR .........................16 Green Mountain Adventures guides the way to autumn excursions BY
DESTINATIONS 19th Century Apple & Cheese Harvest Festival 22 Vermont Sheep & Wool Festival ......... 22 Indigenous Peoples’ Day Rocks! 23 theExploringstate? Follow the pins to find the fun in this issue. A
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CORE VALUES 12 It’s all about the heirloom apples at Scott Farm Orchard
Leaf BurlingtonMiddleburyRutland Brattleboro Bennington MontpelierSt.Johnsbury• Stowe Charlotte • • Strafford Dummerston • 1210 23 22 18 6 • Tunbridge 22
TAKE ME TO CHURCH...............10 Brattleboro’s Stone Church provides a stained glass window into the southern Vermont music scene
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The house became the primary residence of his daughter, Jessica Stewart Swift, in 1939. Over the next several decades, until she died at age 110 in 1982, Swift supported many local institutions
t the Blue Bar in Middlebury’s Swift House Inn, guests might sip a Gin-ger Gimlet and soak up the storied atmosphere — not just the historic details of the 1814 building but also the conversations among its current patrons, who might include writers, actors, filmmakers or operaThesingers.sleekbar room — with its oceanic blue-gray walls, from wainscotting to crown molding — epitomizes the upgrades co-owners and former arts and entertainment professionals Serena Kim and Matthew Robinson have made since they bought the 20-room hotel and its on-site Jessica’s restaurant.
with significant financial contributions. Kim said neighbors have shared stories about how she would serve hot cocoa to children whom she invited to sled down the sloping front lawn.
Although the core inn and restaurant team stayed on, Robinson said their first month as newly hatched innkeepers was “like suddenly being asked to drink from a fireOncehose.”they had a moment to breathe, the couple gradually started making changes. Renovating the bar “was our kind of opening shot across the bow,” Robinson said. “We definitely wanted to create something with a slightly more modernLittlevibe.”bylittle, Kim and Robinson have been adding their touches, such as redoing lighting, refreshing furnishings, and installing new fixtures and subway tile in guest suite bathrooms. Outdoor landscaping improvements include a set of granite steps that cascade down from the crest of the expansive, rolling lawn.
“Last summer we built a stone patio in front of the house that most people think has been there forever, which means we got it right,” he said.
what Swift House could look like and the role it could play in the community.
buildings — the main house, the carriage house and the gatehouse — retain their essential Victorian-era character. “I like to say they kind of rhyme with the period,” Robinson said.
Kim and Robinson have worked hard
Upgrades aside, Swift House’s three
Victorian Revival
The couple takes seriously their role as stewards of a treasured town landmark. The main building of Swift House was the longtime Vermont home base of John Wolcott Stewart, a Middlebury native who served as a Vermont legislator, governor, U.S. representative and, briefly, U.S. senator, mostly during the latter half of the 19th century.
BY MELISSA PASANEN • pasanen@sevendaysvt.com
After several months of pandemicrelated delays, the couple moved from Los Angeles to Vermont on July 4, 2020, and closed on the property that September, during peak foliage season. They brought with them a fresh vision for
New owners infuse historic Swift House Inn with artistic energy
A
The inaugural tent event was the cou ple’s wedding on July 3, 2021, one day shy of their first full year in Vermont. The following week, they launched a summerlong series of Martin Scorsese
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KIM
We cultureartsareandpeople.
From left: Swift House Inn; Serena Kim and Matthew Robinson; dinner at Jessica’s; the Blue Bar; drinks at the Blue Bar
to build their own community connec tions, particularly in the arts, the field in which they both worked for decades before moving to Vermont. For the past two summers, they have erected a large tent behind the main house and collabo rated with local arts organizations to host concerts, movie screenings, plays and fundraisers.“Matthew and Serena quickly estab lished Swift House Inn as a friend to the arts … [and themselves] as communityminded leaders in Addison County,”
Lisa Mitchell, executive director of Middlebury’s Town Hall Theater, said.
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SERENA
owners
“It’s as if they’ve been running an inn and restaurant for decades,” Mitchell continued. “They roll up their sleeves and pitch in on all aspects of the job.”
menu might feature a salad of baby kale and roasted delicata squash, accented with smoked bacon, spiced walnuts and dried cranberries ($14). Honey-glazed pork belly could be topped with innkeeper Kim’s housemade kimchi ($16), while roasted cauliflower steak might be served over turmericinfused risotto with tomato ragout and olive tapenade ($22). A menu staple is New York-raised duck cooked two ways: seared breast and roasted leg with a port wine gastrique, accompanied by a crispshelled potato croquette ($46).
INFO
When Kim and Robinson met via a dating app in 2018, both were in profes sional transition. She was a little leery when he told her that he was an out-ofwork studio executive, “but we totally hit it off,” Kim said.
She has become an enthusiastic member of the Addison County Writers Group and hosts its meetings at the inn. Other arts organizations, such as the Opera Company of Middlebury and Middlebury New Filmmakers Festival, hold board meetings there, too.
But Swift House’s bread and butter is hosting overnight guests, many of whom come to town for college-related events or because they are families of current or prospective students. The inn also
KENNACALEBOFCOURTESYPHOTOS
At the trade show, Robinson met an inn broker from Vermont and started looking at properties. Swift House landed at the top of the list because of its Middlebury location. “It’s just such a rich arts and culture sort of center for this part of Vermont,” Robinson said.
films in partnership with the Middlebury New Filmmakers Festival.
“The juxtaposition between our wedding and Raging Bull or Cape Fear was a slightly different vibe,” Robinson acknowledged with a chuckle.
“We are arts and culture people,” his wifeHeadded.later learned that Kim had always dreamed of living in a New England college town, partly influenced by her favorite book, Saul Bellow’s Herzog. “I always thought that was super romantic,” sheForsaid.Kim, the Middlebury Bread Loaf Writers’ Conferences and associated literary community were also big draws.
welcomes many tourists meandering through the Vermont countryside by car, bike, canoe and even foot.
Thebeds.seasonal
Robinson spent more than 25 years working for major studios selling inter national television rights for iconic series, such as “Friends” and “The Simpsons.” “I lived out of hotels, which is very valuable experience for this gig,” he said dryly.
All guests will find comfortable, well-outfitted bedrooms, many with cozy fireplaces and classic four-poster beds. Eight of the 20 rooms are dog-friendly, reflecting the couple’s devotion to their dogs, Kubrick and Elsa. (Naturally, they are named for Hollywood notables: director Stanley Kubrick and the heroine of Disney’s Frozen.) Half of each pet room
Jessica’s serves dinner Wednesday through Sunday, June through December, and Thursday through Sunday the rest of the year. Many locals, including the inn keepers, especially enjoy the atmosphere in the Blue Bar, where mixologist Laura Fenn crafts creative cocktails in front of the glowing backlit bar.
Jessica’s is one of three Vermont restaurants to have earned a 2022 Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence, but its list is approachable and many bottles are affordable. Intriguing offer ings include wines made with mencía, explained on the wine list as “a nearly forgotten regional grape of northwest Spain,” starting at $39. Sommelier and restaurant manager David Herren high lighted another $39 bottle: a Slovenian pinot grigio from a small sustainable winery, which he promised would deliver far more body and complexity than “your grandmother’s pinot gris.”
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Swift House Inn and Jessica’s, 25 Stewart Lane, Middlebury, 388-9925, swifthouseinn.com
From top: Dining rooms at Jessica’s restaurant; Rob Fenn, executive chef at Jessica’s restaurant; salad at Jessica’s; guest bedroom at Swift House Inn
Victorian Revival « P.7
For Robinson, 59, the move to Vermont was an East Coast homecoming. He grew up just south of Buffalo, N.Y., where his father was a bookbinder at the Roycroft arts and crafts community. A portrait of Robinson’s father hangs in Jessica’s library dining room.
Laura’s husband, executive chef Rob Fenn, has helmed Jessica’s dinner crew for 12 years. The native Vermonter returned to his home state after cooking at mountain and lake lodges in Wyoming andAtIowa.this year’s Vermont Fresh Network Annual Forum, Jessica’s won the top honor for local venison carpac cio bruschetta anointed with horserad ish crème fraîche, pickled red onion and microgreens from Swift House’s raised
It seems a fitting choice to sip at the renewed Swift House, which is well on its way to delivering far more sophistication than the average country inn. m
Kim, 49, is a native of Los Angeles who describes herself as “an OG party kid from Koreatown.” Her late stepfather, Young-Il Ahn, was a leading Korean American abstract expressionist. One of his paintings graces Jessica’s main dining room.After earning a degree in Islamic history from the University of California Santa Cruz in three years, Kim became a successful DJ, hip-hop journalist and editor at Vibe magazine, covering stars such as Kanye West, Jay-Z and Beyoncé.
She admitted that she was also wary when a friend of Robinson’s observed that he was such a gracious and adept host that he should consider buying a small hotel. Robinson, however, was intrigued and signed up for an aspiring innkeeper program offered at a hospital ity trade show.
charge goes to the local animal shelter, HomewardOvernightBound.staysinclude a bountiful breakfast buffet of eggs, meats, potatoes, French toast or pancakes, fresh fruit, yogurt, and house granola. A former Cordon Bleu culinary instructor bakes the daily selection of muffins and scones.
“I didn’t go running out of there with my hair on fire, thinking, What a terrible idea,” he said.
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Those initiatives and other local efforts — such as Epsilon Spires just down the street, another church converted into a beautiful space for art, film, music
ERIN SCAGGS
There definitelyis a buzz rightmusicBrattleboro’saboutscenenow.
AWTRYLUKEPHOTOS:
“It was really clear that the community needed a place like this, where we could see these types of acts,” he said. “It’s not the easiest thing to book acts in Brattleboro!”Nestledintoa corner of the state near the Massachusetts and New Hampshire borders, Brattleboro isn’t a logical pit stop for touring acts. While Burlington venues can catch bands between their New York and Montréal shows, it takes a little more elbow grease to get tour buses to detour to southernAssistantVermont.manager
Take Me to Church
“We’re almost more a part of Massachusetts or New Hampshire in some ways. But we want to change that and be this place that people want to go to, where you can’t miss a show.”
n recent years, Brattleboro has launched some of the Green Mountain State’s best musical acts — metal band Barishi, stoner rockers Witch and post-punk trio Thus Love, among others. But many Vermonters have been missing out on the burgeoning scene in the southeast corner of the state.
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BY CHRIS FARNSWORTH • farnsworth@sevendaysvt.com
“It does feel sometimes like we’re only kind of connected to the rest of the Vermont arts and music scene,” Brattleboro resident Erin Scaggs observed.
The 147-year-old building existed well into the 1960s as the All Souls Unitarian Church before closing its doors. Since being repurposed as a venue and reopening in 2016, the Stone Church has become a central piece in the southern Vermont arts commu nity. The club brings in internationally touring acts such as said,ownertheSamexpaterstown’smusiciansassuperstarOre.-basedHitchcocksinger-songwriterEnglishRobynandPortland,indiepopM.Ward,wellassupportingincludingtheownsynthrockDutchExpertsandsinger-songwriterAmidon.“Myfatherboughtchurchinthe’70s,”RobinJohnsonstandingbesidethe
Scaggs helps bring talent to the Stone Church. She has a prodigious appetite for live music and the savvy to leverage community connec tions: She also serves as the creative director for the Downtown Brattleboro Alliance, a nonprofit that works to support growth through art, recreation and commerce, and is the founding director of Gallery Walk, a summer series promoting art in the city.
bar he installed to the left of the stage. For many years after his family acquired the building, it served as a combination of offices and manufacturing space. As a member of the Brattleboro music scene for years, though, Johnson harbored loftier designs for the old church.
I
Enter the Stone Church. Sitting peacefully atop a plot of grass at 210 Main Street in downtown Brattleboro, the venue offers an unforgettable atmosphere, whether it’s a rambunctious metal show or an intimate folk concert.
Brattleboro’s Stone Church provides a stained glass window into the southern Vermont music scene
That character is present even on the venue’s stone
amazing ambience and killer bands coming in, it just adds something really special to our scene,” she shouted. “Also, and this can’t be overstated, it just looks so cool.”Indeed, it does. The structure itself is a testament to old-world beauty. Traces of Gothic Revival architecture mix seamlessly with Scandinavian and Renaissance influences, reflecting the artistic curiosity that seems embedded in Brattleboro’s character.
“The word is starting to get out,” Scaggs said about the club. “I think people around here know what we bring and the kind of acts we can book. Now we just need to let the rest of Vermont know.” m
As Ghosts of Jupiter began their set and the club’s lights illuminated the stone walls and reflected off the stained glass, a crowd amassed before the stage. It was a rainy Monday night, but the church soon filled up. By the time Earthless took the stage, the place was packed. The audience included plenty of Brattleboro musicians, as well as Dinosaur Jr. front person J Mascis, who lives in nearby Northampton, Mass.
“To have a venue like this, with great sound and
Clockwise from left: Earthless performing at the Stone Church in Brattleboro; exterior of the Stone Church; Aaron Chesley, Robin Johnson, Dan Richardson and Erin Scaggs at the Stone Church
INFO
and more — are all part of a concerted push to raise Brattleboro’s artistic profile.
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“There is definitely a buzz about Brattleboro’s music scene right now,” Scaggs said while watching San Diego psych-rockers Earthless load their gear into the venue for a show later that night. As Boston-based opening act Ghosts of Jupiter began sound check, the drummer pounded the bass drum. Scaggs, in her element, leaned closer to this reporter and raised her voice.
entryway. Johnson and his team have worked for years to remodel the old church and make it accessible and equipped with modern amenities, but they’ve also painstakingly preserved the grandeur and spiritual beauty. From the stained glass windows to the stage built from old pews, the Stone Church has an incom parable aura, lending an almost devotional aspect to seeing live music.
And, as with a holy site, some visitors must make a pilgrimage to seek it out. That was the case for this Burlington-based music editor.
The Stone Church, 210 Main St. in Brattleboro, stonechurchvt.com. Upcoming shows include the Felice Brothers (September 21), Della Mae (October 20), Soule Monde (October 22), and Acquamossa and Roost.World (November 4).
BY MEG MCINTYRE
FLETCHERKELLYOFCOURTESY
A new era was launched in the early 2000s with the hiring of orchardist Zeke Goodband, who began reviving the heirloom varieties — apple strains grown 50 to 100 years ago and passed down from generation to generation — for which Scott Farm is known today.
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A
Landmark Trust USA executive director Susan McMahon believes the
The Holbrooks built an apple empire,
The nonprofit set to work restoring the farm barns and got it listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Settled in 1791, the property operated as a subsistence farm throughout much of the 1800s until the arrival of the railroad in Brattleboro allowed milk and cream to be shipped for sale at Boston markets. In the early 20th century, the Holbrook family purchased the farm and planted the orchard.
shipping their Vermont-grown fruit all across the United States and to a few other countries. Then, in 1995, Fred Holbrook donated Scott Farm to the nonprofit Landmark Trust USA, which had restored the Holbrooks’ adjoining Naulakha property, once home to British author Rudyard Kipling.
Core Values
It’s all about the heirloom apples at Scott Farm Orchard
breeze fluttered through the grounds of Scott Farm Orchard on a late summer evening, jaunty fiddle music carrying on the wind. Clusters of people sat looking out over historic barns and rolling hills dotted with stone walls.
They were gathered to celebrate the latest chapter in the Dummerston farm’s storied history: a foray into small-batch hard cider, slow-fermented in the traditional French style using apples grown in its orchard. As rain descended, the crowd huddled under the overhang of the Apple Barn and general manager Simon Renault raised a toast to Mémé, his 100-year-old grandmother and the namesake of the new cider, Chez Mémé.
“Did you order that rainbow?” a patron shouted out as the clouds began
Cider making is a new adventure for Scott Farm, known in southern Vermont and beyond as a respected fruit purveyor, wedding and event venue, community gathering place, and apple-picking destination. But Renault said the process fits right in with the organization’s longstanding mission: to keep history alive through the love of apples.
to clear. Renault answered with an enthusiastic “Yes.”
farm is worth a visit not just for its idyllic Vermont ambience but also for the unique experience of savoring apple varieties that could easily have been lost to time.“It’s historic, and it also promotes the cultural importance of these heirloom apples and heirloom fruit. We have other interesting fruits, as well — we’ve got pawpaw, persimmons, medlars,” McMahon said. “So it’s a way to learn about what you eat.”
Nourished by its host, the scion grows and fuses with the rootstock, essentially creating a new tree just like the one the farm wants to preserve. Using these tech niques, Scott Farm’s resident orchardist, Erin Robinson, cultivates roughly 130 different varieties of heirloom apples that are sold in the on-site market, pressed for the farm’s nonalcoholic ginger cider and baked into pies.
CORE VALUES » P.14 FLETCHERKELLYOFCOURTESYORCHARDFARMSCOTTOFCOURTESYFLETCHERKELLYOFCOURTESYFLETCHERKELLYOFCOURTESY
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Renault likes to say apples are a lot like people in their variation. Because of the fruit’s heterozygosity, simply planting a seed from the desired tree won’t yield apples identical to the original crop. To reproduce certain varieties, orchardists must use a process called grafting, which involves binding a piece of the tree they
“The beauty of heirloom apples is that they are varieties that have been passed on from generation to generation,” Renault said. “And they’re still around because, over the decades and the
Clockwise from left: Apple picking at Scott Farm Orchard; apple crates outside a historic Scott Farm building; a young apple picker; a family enjoying the orchard; crates of heirloom apples
want to replicate, known as a scion, onto a rootstock, the root system and lower portion of an established tree.
SIMON RENAULT
Patrons are always welcome to walk the grounds and explore the network of trails or the Stone Wall Park, a garden of dry stone façades constructed by the Stone Trust. From its center in a restored barn on the Scott Farm property, the nonprofit provides instruction and training in traditional methods used to build interlocking stone structures without mortar.It’sjust
monthly Crêpe Nights in the summer to a fall fruit CSA.
Core Values « P.13
Above: Apple picker gathering fruit
heavy on the tree
We’re the little guy who is whoidiosyncratic,veryjustgrowstheseapplesfortheloveofit.Eachonecomeswithitsownstory.
“I feel like you’re tasting history,” McMahon said. m
The highlight of each year is the farm’s Heirloom Apple Day, set for Sunday, October 9, this fall. The annual celebration of all things fruit features guest speakers, tastings, children’s activities, cider doughnuts, apple pick ing, food trucks and more. The farm also offers several workshops each month, including October sessions on gluten-free baking, the basics of hard cider making and how to create the perfect heirloom apple pie.
Cultivating them can be an un predictable and challenging process, which is why most farms focus instead on growing the classic commodity apples you’ll often find in grocery stores, those with recognizable names such as McIntosh, Gala and Golden Delicious.AtScott Farm, you’ll find varieties such as Calville Blanc D’Hiver, which Renault says is ideal for pie making, and Hudson’s Golden Gem, which has a delicate texture similar to that of a pear. Visitors come from all over to try these rare types, Renault said, and in that
Farm
“We’re the little guy who is very idiosyncratic, who just grows these apples for the love of it,” Renault said. “Each one comes with its own story, its own flavor, its own color, its own texture, its own shape. It’s fascinating.”
Scott Farm Orchard, at 707 Kipling Rd. in Dummerston, hosts Heirloom Apple Day on Sunday, October 9. Free.
centuries, people have deemed [them] worthy of keeping around.”
INFO
Right: hanging at Scott Orchard
sense, he likens the orchard to the apple world’s version of a small craft brewery.
Apples
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one more way in which the 571-acre property is steeped in the past. With this aura of days gone by, it’s not hard to see why the farm was tapped as a filming location for the 1998 Oscar-winning film The Cider House Rules , set just before and after World War II. But Renault stresses that the farm attracts visitors from far and wide not just because of its commitment to preserving agricultural heritage but also because its apples are, in a word, “delicious.”
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The unique flavors are available to sample seven days a week at the farm market, which stocks a variety of other products from Vermont artisans, such as Grafton Village Cheese, Stone Soldier Pottery and Glabach Maple Farm. But visitors can also get a taste of Scott Farm’s apples through a slate of community events and initiatives, from
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Today, Marion works as a registered nurse while Steven runs the store and guide company with about a dozen employees, in cluding the couple’s three sons: Brewer, 19; Abel, 17; and Lorenzo, 15. Green Mountain Adventures specializes in guided trips for hiking, paddling, rock climbing and fly-fishing, all of which are ideal in early to mid-fall.
Middlebury Mountaineer and Green Mountain Adventures, 56 Main St. in Middlebury, 388-7245, mmvt.com.
INFO
BY KEN PICARD • ken@sevendaysvt.com
Come mid-October, Green Mountain Adventures transitions into a Nordic ski shop and offers guided trips. The shop also leases equipment for the Bill Koch League, a Nordic ski program for kids in kindergarten through middle school.
Steven Atocha with his catch
Atocha and his wife, Marion, moved to Vermont from Connecticut in 1994 to attend the University of Vermont. During college, Steven worked part time at the Alpine Shop in South Burlington while Marion worked nearby at Eastern Mountain Sports. After graduating in 1998, the couple opened their own retail store and guide company. They chose Middlebury, Atocha explained, because of its accessibility to so many outdoor recre ational opportunities within 20 minutes of town, including rock climbing, hiking, snowshoeing, skiing and fly-fishing. As he put it, “You don’t have to be a weekend warrior here, which I love.”
on’t be intimidated by the name Middlebury Mountaineer. One doesn’t need to be a hard-core alpinist to visit the outdoor gear shop in downtown Middlebury or hire a guide from its sister company, Green Mountain Adventures. With more than 25 years of backcountry and guiding experience, owner Steven Atocha is ready to set people up for an autumn adventure, regardless of their experience or ability levels.
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For example, Green Mountain Adventures offers a class on the basics of rock climbing, taught on cliffs overlooking Lake Dunmore. Designed for people who are either new to the sport or want to apply skills they learned indoors, this program teaches basic knot-tying and belaying skills as well as fundamental body movements on rock. The four-hour trip, which costs $200 for one or two people, is suitable for any ability level.
For people who are more interested in getting out on water, fall is an ideal time for paddling, Atocha noted. Green Mountain Adventures offers custom-designed kayak tours on waters just minutes from Middlebury, including Otter Creek, Lake Dunmore, Dead Creek and Lake Champlain. A three-hour kayak lesson and tour runs $200 for one or two paddlers, with all equipment and transportation provided.
D
Among Green Mountain Adventures’ most popular excursions are its fly-fishing tours. Though the company serves a lot of tour ists and parents of college students, Atocha noted that plenty of his clients are Vermonters who want to learn the sport, hone their skills or discover new locations to fish.
Get Into Gear
Green Mountain Adventures guides the way to autumn excursions
“They don’t want to spend their whole weekend exploring,” he said. “They just want to know where to go.”
SD: Tell me about your fall guided hikes.
SA: Our guided fly-fishing tours are huge. We’re able to float, so we have rafts and hard boats that we take on the White River for trout and bass,
SD: What are your more adventurous hikes?
You
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SA: Typically we’re up in the Green Mountains, somewhere on the Long Trail. We’ve done Worth Mountain at Middlebury College Snow Bowl. The great thing about that trail is, a lot of Vermont hiking is in the tree canopy, where you only get views when you reach the summit. Snow Bowl is a nice option for people who don’t want to be too far out there. And because you keep crossing the ski trails, you always get a view in one direction or another.
SD: Are all your fly-fishing trips float trips?
SA: I live in Lincoln, a couple of minutes from the upper New Haven River, and I love that for brook trout fishing. Also, the Middlebury River, the Neshobe River and Furnace Brook. The Otter is also a great fishery.
SA: We love it, because it sets us apart from other guide companies. But that’s maybe 30 to 40 percent of our business. The rest is walk and wade, either half days or full days. We can target specific fish species based on water conditions, temperature and things like that. We can also supply gear, such as waders, rods, reels and flies.
SD: How many clients do you take at a time?
SA: I just did the Long Trail from Appalachian Gap to Lincoln Gap, which is 11.5 miles and part of the Monroe Skyline. That goes over Mad River, Sugarbush North and South, and ends on Mount Abraham. That’s a five- to six-hour
SA: As a rule of thumb, we don’t guide more than two clients per guide on a fishing trip. With fishing, there are a lot of moving parts, and I personally find it stressful to be running up and down
SA: Typically, we do top-rope climbing above Lake Dunmore near the Falls of Lana. It’s a pretty easy approach, maybe a five- to seven-minute walk in. The cliffs are about 80 to 90 feet. It’s good for beginner to intermediate climbers and not a hard-core climbing spot by any means. There’s no experience nec essary. We use full-body harnesses, and we’re belaying the clients and setting all the anchors. They’re always welcome to watch and learn, and we’re happy to teach them some of those techniques. It all depends on the client and what they want to get out of it. Some just want a family adventure.
Anotherhike.good one, which is just over 13 miles, is the Cooley Glen-Emily Proctor Trail between Ripton and Lincoln. You’re in the Presidential Range — Abraham, Grant, Roosevelt and Wilson — and you come down in Proctor. You don’t need a shuttle for that one because it’s a big loop from the trailhead. That offers a fair bit of elevation
STEVEN ATOCHA: We tend to stay on our home waters, places we know well and go to on a daily basis, so we can see how they change based on the weather and water levels. We don’t try to guide the entire state. We would give a poor product if we did. So we stick to within an hour’s drive.
Whoevergain.we’re taking out, we always ask: What do you want to experience? What have you done before? Then we try to find something new and different. We always want to summit, and I don’t want the hike to be so strenuous that they hate it. But I also want it to be a little outside of their comfort zone. m don’t have to be a weekend warrior here, which I love.
STEVEN ATOCHA
the river trying to work on tangles and things like that.
SD: What are some of your most popular offerings heading into fall?
and Otter Creek for trout, bass and pike. As the water levels climb and temperatures cool, we’ll be offering float trips, typically starting in midSeptember. We also do paddling trips on Lake Champlain, Otter Creek, Chittenden Reservoir, Fern Lake and Lake Dunmore. It generally depends on where the group is coming from and their ability levels.
SD: What are your favorite places to fish?
SEVEN DAYS: How far do you travel for your guided trips?
SD: Where do you do the rock climbing?
SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER FALL 2022 17
models of dairy farming are extractive, McCargo said, meaning they deplete natural resources. Instead, Philo Ridge employs regenerative practices — combining methods such as rotational livestock grazing, cover
t’s hard to beat the late summer de light of digging into a juicy heirloom tomato sandwich on the terrace at Philo Ridge Farm. Bright red tomato bursts with every bite, sending drips rolling off the farm-grown greens and out the sides of the mayonnaise-slathered, light-as-air pain de mie.
“There’s this uncelebrated moment when people come to the farm,” manag ing director Irene Hamburger said. “We encourage them to look down.”
Kevin Sprouse and the kitchen team to determine the week’s menu.
In the Ridge Garden and greenhouses, the garden team grows certified-organic vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers. In the pastures beyond, the land and live stock team shepherds Belted Galloway cattle, sheep, pigs and chickens through a complex choreography of rotational grazing. And they’re all constantly communicating with executive chef
The grass — and the soil below it — hold the real magic of Philo Ridge.
INFO
Philo Ridge is not the kind of farm where animals pose for photo ops in the barnyard. Their furry faces get plenty of attention when visitors encounter them, of course. But for most of the summer, the distinctly striped “Belties” are far from that stunning terrace-side view.
For many visitors, the Charlotte farm is primarily a dining destination. Its on-site market, which opened in one of the immaculately restored historic barns in July 2018, is stocked with well-priced
McCargo and her husband, Peter Swift, purchased the 400-acre former dairy in 2012. They hoped to preserve and restore the hilltop farm’s agricul tural
grass-fed meat, organic produce, spe cialty grocery items and high-end home goods, as well as grab-and-go prepared foods, pastries, coffee, and tea.
Taking in the fall harvest at Charlotte’s Philo Ridge Farm
Large windows in the vast dining room beside the market offer glimpses of the Philo Ridge kitchen, which offers casual lunch and elegant multicourse prix fixe dinners Wednesday through Saturday. Gracious servers, led by front-of-house manager Christine Oppenheim, are quick to tell the story of the ingredients, most of them sourced directly from the farm.
Philo Ridge Farm, 2766 Mt. Philo Rd., Charlotte, 539-2977, philoridgefarm.com. Dinner is by reservation only.
BY JORDAN BARRY • jbarry@sevendaysvt.com
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The sandwich’s seasonal exuberance is matched only by the surroundings: flowers on the table, lush vines winding up and over the terrace, fruit-heavy trees, and expansive pastures. Adirondack chairs on the edge of the ridge entice diners to pause post-lunch and soak in the“Everybodyscene. says, ‘Oh, what a pretty view,’” Philo Ridge founder Diana McCargo said. “But it’s not just a pretty view. It’s actually growing the food that you’re sitting here eating.”
Traditionalland.
SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER FALL 202218
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A premeal stroll on the self-guided walking trails reveals even more of the work that goes into each plate, especially as summer turns to fall.
pork
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cropping and composting to improve the soil, sequester carbon and increase biodiversity.Herdsofheritage-breed livestock, including the Belties and Border Leicester-Romney sheep, spend six
From left: Tomato with eggplant, zucchini, sweet pepper and ricotta (left) and roasted shoulder with mushrooms, potato, sweet pepper, and peach barbecue sauce at Philo Ridge Farm; Belted Galloway cattle; Adirondack chairs on the edge of the ridge; butcher Hannah Clark (left) and her friend Jenna Jackson
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months of the year following the grass, cycling through the farm’s 200 acres of carefully managed pasture and 120 leased acres nearby.
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Like the livestock team, Philo Ridge’s garden team focuses on understanding and improving the soil. The pumpkin bed wasn’t in production last year due to high levels of phosphorus. Instead, it was cover-cropped with sunflowers. This year, the team experimented with several bed prep processes, including rye crimping to add organic matter and suppress weeds and broadforking to loosen and aerate the
Fall is a busy time for Pitcavage’s team. The animals are still grazing, and it’s time to take a third cut of hay off some of the fields. Compost needs to be spread on others, and cold-season grasses need to be drill-seeded in rehabbing fields, following the intensive grazing of pigs.
andperennialLower-maintenancesoil.fruit-filledbuffersarebothlovedhated,Pappalardosaid.They’re It’s not just a pretty view. It’s actually growing the food that you’re sitting here eating.
DIANA
“This is one of our most beloved spaces in our production, just because it’s so diverse,” Pappalardo said of the one-acre Ridge Garden. “And if people are walking by on the farm, they usually pass us, which gives us a little interest andPumpkinsintrigue.”
“They’re grazing there, cutting the pasture, fertilizing the pasture,” McCargo said. “And when you measure the quality of the soil at the end of the season, it’s better than it was at the beginning.”“Wecall ourselves grass farmers and livestock farmers,” land and livestock manager Ed Pitcavage said with a laugh.
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are a new crop for the farm, added based on feedback from the market and kitchen teams during winter planning. Those collaborative conversations ensure that the garden grows the right things in the right quantities, Pappalardo said.
The sheep will get their fall shear ing, and the fleece will be sent off for processing into yarn and wool blankets to sell in the market. Chickens are pro cessed biweekly through the summer to provide fresh meat for the kitchen and retail, while steer are harvested throughout the year, roughly three per month. October brings the start of the lamb harvest, which continues through January.It’salso breeding season for the cows — and soon the ewes — so that lambs arrive between mid-March and midApril, and calves are born on pasture in May and June.
SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER FALL 202220
out perennial buffers exploding with bright yellow tansy, purple echinacea, elderberries, currants and gooseber ries. The first annual vegetable bed was a swirl of vines, from which grow pumpkins with fanciful names such as Speckled Hound, Porcelain Doll and Cinnamon Girl.
The garden team is busy this time of year, too. The weather may feel like fall, but the farm is still bursting with color — and tomatoes. On an early September stroll along the ridge, garden team member Marissa Pappalardo pointed
high-yielding but can be overwhelm ing to harvest. Often, members of the kitchen and market teams pitch in with the tedious currant and gooseberry picking. The farm also works with gleaners from the Vermont Foodbank and the Intervale Food Hub to find a home for excess produce.
Vermont
diners will experience a special treat: Before they move into the pack barns for the winter, the Belties will be front and center, grazing on alfalfa and red clover in the middle of that picture-perfect, productive terrace view. m Crafts
In early September, the first course offered a choice of tomato with eggplant, zucchini, sweet pepper and ricotta; gem lettuce salad; or confit chicken leg with cheddar grits, tomatillos, tomato, farm egg sabayon and garden herbs. Entrées featured
With that in mind, and to honor the Foote family who ran the farm’s dairy operation for six generations, the new menu will include two shareable first courses and sides for the table. Diners will still choose their entrée and dessert.
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Pastry chef Ellie Irving’s signature buttermilk ice cream was a highlight of dessert, served with pound cake and peaches.Thefour-course fall and winter menu, still in the works, will have a slightly different structure. “We’re trying to move more toward telling the story of the family farm dinner, where families would sit down and share a big bowl of string beans or mashed potatoes,” director of hospitality George Stinson said.
Philo Ridge recently stopped taking dinner reservations for the outdoor summer barn seating and will slowly move service inside from the terrace as the nights get cooler, Stinson said. (Both outdoor spaces will remain open for lunch seating until the end of October.)Buthardy
The kitchen’s three-course “summer” menu ($64) will continue, too, until mid-October, though the ingredients and cooking techniques will adjust with the change of season. Diners pick from three options for each course and can add dishes for the table such as beef carpaccio ($13), hakurei turnips with mushroom garum ($5), cantaloupe with feta and red onion ($5), and sous chef Buell Alvord’s outstanding buns with cultured butter ($7).
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The garden will continue at full tilt until frost, while the team balances winter prep with summer harvest and fall plantings. Nightshades such as pep pers, eggplants, tomatoes and ground cherries; fall brassicas; winter squash; greens; scallions; leeks; chicories; and an exuberant planting of annual flowers are all still flourishing.
the farm’s beef, summer vegetables or pan-seared chicken breast.
DREAMSTIMECASTKAJIRI© An antique apple cider press
19TH HARVESTAPPLECENTURY&CHEESEFESTIVAL
BY EMILY HAMILTON
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Entrants into every fiber arts contest — categories include sweaters, spun yarn, felting, rugs and baskets — get special prizes for feminist-themed products. And the entire event is dedicated to Kat Smith, who died in 2021. The vendor and veteran planning committee member gave 25 years of indelible service to the festival.
VERMONT SHEEP & WOOL FESTIVAL
Saturday, October 1, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and Sunday, October 2, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., at Tunbridge World’s Fairgrounds. $5-8; free for toddlers; materials fee for some classes. vtsheepandwoolfest.com
After a hiatus in 2020 and 2021, this year’s festival marks a return to in-person celebration. Expect plenty of vintage vim and vigor: Attendees can tap their toes to live fiddle and accordion tunes, squeeze their own cider from an antique press, meet sheep and cattle, sample heirloom apples and artisan cheeses, play period games, munch on apple pie, and explore the homestead’s gardens, barns, blacksmith shop, shuffleboard court, icehouse, lookout trail and historic Gothic Revival house.
Sunday, September 25, 1-4 p.m., at Justin Morrill Homestead in Strafford. $5; free for kids under 15. morrillhomestead.org
mack in the middle of apple season, locals can don bonnets and top hats for a trip back in time to the 19th Century Apple & Cheese Harvest Festival at Justin Morrill Homestead in Strafford. The annual shindig marks Johnny Appleseed’s birthday with a full schedule of food and fun.
asters, dames and little boys who live down the lane can pick up their three bags full of black sheep wool and much, much more at the Vermont Sheep & Wool Festival. Kicking off sweater season with a baa-ng, the Tunbridge fest provides an op portunity for Vermont’s spinners, weavers, dyers, knitters, sheepherders and alpaca farmers to get together for one woolly and wonderful weekend.
Back in person this year, the 34th annual festival “is dedicated to ‘Women in Farming,’” promoter Terry Miller noted. “We hope you will help us celebrate the women who work to produce natural fiber and food products.”
Fiber fanatics of all stripes are sure to find something to love, whether it’s the fleece sale, the border collie herding demonstrations, the book readings and signings, the life-size sheep sculptures, the free shepherd workshops or the cashmere goat show. And there are classes galore: tapestry weaving, natural dyeing and wheel spinning, just to name a few.
SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER FALL 202222 Destinations
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The grounds, which belonged to Vermont senator and farmer Justin Smith Morrill (1810-1898), are a sight to see. An amateur architect and landscape designer, Morrill had the gardens and walkways around his home planted for maximum pleasure. Visitors taking a stroll will see colorful flowers, the oldest Norway spruce in Vermont and many of the original trees planted by Morrill himself.
Saturday, October 8, 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m., at Stowe Events Field. Free; donations accepted. stowevibrancy.com
ndigenous Peoples’ Day Rocks! is both a state ment of fact and the name of an epic music and cultural festival in Stowe. Ever since Vermont replaced Columbus Day with an official state holiday called Indigenous Peoples’ Day, Stowe Vibrancy has been organizing a celebration of Native American traditions.
live on,” the board of directors wrote in a press release earlier this year.
It all starts with a bustling cultural festival, featur ing blessings by Chief Stevens, dancing, drumming, storytelling, singing, artisans, authors and all manner of Abenaki educational offerings. As afternoon turns to evening, the rock concert begins. This year’s lineup includes Blues Hall of Fame inductee Joe Louis Walker, who is of Cherokee descent; Washington, D.C.’s “Queen of the Blues” Carly Harvey, who is of Tsalagi and Tuscarora descent; local Abenaki musi cian and storyteller Jesse Bowman Bruchac; Vermont blues legend Dave Keller; and Mohawk recording artist Bear Fox & Kontiwennenhawi.
Carly Harvey
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people]Indigenouswhoselandswe
SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER FALL 2022 23 FASANOJEFFOFCOURTESY
INDIGENOUS PEOPLES’ DAY ROCKS!
The annual concert was born in 2020 in partnership with the Abenaki tribe. Its mission: “To create a year-round vessel and engine to honor, cel ebrate and support [the
“Our third year promises to be even brighter and more moving,” the board wrote. “We’re so excited about the work at hand with Chief [Don] Stevens to continue transforming this year’s celebration to include cultural and arts education, drumming and dancing.” The day culminates in “an incredible rock and roll show.”
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