JULY 2021
6
Beach, Please
Livin’ the lake life at Burlington Surf Club
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Twilight Zone
History comes alive in Brownington
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Getaway Plan
Pamper yourself at the Woodstocker B&B
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STAYTRIPPER JULY 2021
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KICK OFF TO SUMMER!
Home to Vermont’s largest July 4th municipal fireworks display. • Kid’s float in Fairlee Town Parade • Lakeside BBQ lunch for our overnight guests
C
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Waterfront Concert Series THURSDAY NIGHTS IN JULY & AUGUST
Doors at 7:30 | Shows at 8pm | Free admission | Donations encouraged July 15:
THE ADAM EZRA GROUP
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EXPLORE
July 22:
CHRIS BARRON OF SPIN DOCTORS
The Heart of Burlington & Beyond Join Us for a Summer Filled with Adventure!
July 29:
August 5:
MICHAEL GLABICKI OF RUSTED ROOT
KAT WRIGHT
August 12:
SEAN KELLY OF THE SAMPLES
Proceeds benefit Umbrella NEK (umbrellanek.org) Donations accepted during the show, as well as from each evening’s dinner and room proceeds. Waterfront space is limited, make your reservations today.
Info & Reservations: lakemoreyresort.com Lake Morey Resort | 82 Clubhouse Road | Fairlee, VT 800.423.1211
www.marriott.com/btvdt • 1.802.864.4700 25 Cherry Street, Burlington, VT
CONCERT PRODUCTION GENEROUSLY PROVIDED BY CATAMOUNT ARTS ST2V-LakeMoreyResort062321.indd 1
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THE ISHAM FAMILY FARM
is really excited to be able to offer the following shows for our 2021 Season. MARK YOUR CALENDAR!
The 2nd annual Farmers Market here at the farm on Tuesdays starting June 22nd for 15 consecutive weeks JULY 2 HELIAND CONSORT :: UNIVERSE IN A SPARKLE
JULY 28-AUGUST 8 POPCORN FALLS
PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker-Bill McKibben, Environmentalist and co-founder of 350.org will discuss his thoughts on our environment. SHOW Heliand Consort performs an expansive program of chamber music and songs inspired by our natural world as we honor diligent doers who move us toward greater awareness of, and harmony with, nature.
JULY 11 KERUBO PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker Elaine Pentaleri, Vermont published Poet will read her poems about the environment SHOW KeruBo sings African folk music and Afro jazz, from slave spirituals, African laments, civil rights songs, story songs, gospel songs, and beyond…
JULY 18 THE FARM TO BALLET PROJECT PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker-Ballet Vermont Dance Camp dancers will discuss what they have learned about the environment through dance. SHOW The Farm to Ballet Project is an original ballet about a farm through the seasons.
Isham Family Farm believes in creating a healthy environment for the 4 B’s: Birds, Bees, Butterflies and Bugs!
FIRST: EARTH SUMMER SERIES VISION STATEMENT:
PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker- (Opening night only) Ethan Tapper, Chittenden County Forester will discuss forestry management for wildlife SHOW Popcorn Falls. Written by James Hindman. Produced by Vermont Stage. Synopsis: Welcome to Popcorn Falls, a small American town whose only claim to fame – their namesake waterfall – has dried up. Now bankrupt, their last chance is a large grant that can only be used if the town produces a play in a week.
AUGUST 18 BARN OPERA-TOSCA PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker-Julie Cadwallader Staub-Vermont-based, Writer’s Almanac recognized Poet will read her poems about the environment. SHOW Puccini’s political operatic thriller is set in Rome in June 1800 (during the Napoleonic wars and a time of great political unrest).
SEPTEMBER 11 & 12 VERMONT SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL PRESENTS: SHAKESPEARE: COMPLETELY UNBOUND! PRE-SHOW Environmental Speaker-TBD SHOW The artists of Vermont Shakespeare Festival have created a fresh new show composed of text from each and every one of his 37 plays! This groundbreaking theatrical fusion is the perfect response to the history, romance, tragedy…and comedy of our times.
We believe that diverse and inclusive music, theatre, dance and words can act as a powerful force for good in the community while promoting environmental awareness and responsibility. At the intimate setting of the farm, the “First: Earth Summer Series” can bring people together in a unifying and uplifting shared experience and strengthens the idea of a community coming together to celebrate the environment while witnessing live performances of different cultures and genres.
*Tickets, more details and exact showtimes on
www.ishamfamilyfarm.com NO Refunds: Free Parking * BYO Picnic
SPONSORED BY
* proceeds from these events will benefit Vt Audubon and First: Earth Educational Fund.
Mike Isham & Helen Weston • Isham Family Farm • 3515 Oak Hill Rd, Williston VT 05495 • 802-872-1525 • Farmermike@ishamfamilyfarm.com 4
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The Great Escape
J U LY 2021
Raise your hand if every day feels a little bit like vacay, now that the state’s pandemic restrictions have been lifted. Vermonters are once again partaking in activities they avoided last July — dining out, catching live music, heading to a popular swimming hole. It’s summer lovin’ like we haven’t experienced since 2019, and it’s all the more special for that lost year. This issue of Staytripper, Seven Days’ road map to rediscovering Vermont, offers guidance for getting back out there. And by “out there,” we generally mean the great outdoors. This time of year, nothing is better. Follow our itinerary to a provocative puppet show in a Glover field or a peaceful paddleboard on Lake Champlain. Get some perspective while wandering among large-scale artworks in Enosburg Falls or learning about a pioneering Black Vermonter in Brownington. Feeling gutsy? Zip-line down a mountain in Jeffersonville. You don’t have to go far to celebrate your newfound freedom.
SHORE THING............................. 6 As temperatures soar, Vermonters ride the waves at the Burlington Surf Club BY KEN PICARD
C ARO LY N FOX, ED I T O R
TWILIGHT IN THE KINGDOM... 10 Brownington’s Old Stone House harnesses history to inform current conversations about race
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BY SALLY POLLAK
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LARGER THAN LIFE.................... 12
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Enosburg
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Cold Hollow Sculpture Park’s outsize artworks turn Enosburg Falls hayfields into a gallery
Brownington 23
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BY AMY LILLY
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A LITTLE ROMANCE................... 16
Burlington
A couple creates a warm Woodstock welcome for pampered getaways
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Jeffersonville
Glover
• St. Johnsbury
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BY MELISSA PASANEN
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DESTINATIONS 20 21 Shelburne Museum.......................... 22 Bread and Puppet Theater................. 23
Shelburne
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Waterbury Montpelier
ArborTrek Canopy Adventures...........
Waterbury Adventure Challenge........
Middlebury
16 Woodstock
Rutland
Bennington ON THE COVER: Charlotte and Rebecca Moriarty at the Burlington Surf Club PHOTO BY BEAR CIERI
Brattleboro
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Exploring the state? Follow the pins to find the fun in this issue.
WITH SUPPORT FROM
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PHOTOS: BEAR CIERI
Shore Thing As temperatures soar, Vermonters ride the waves at the Burlington Surf Club BY KEN PICARD • ken@sevendaysvt.com
O
n a steamy weekday morning in June, Lisa Stever and Cathy Clear were walking to the beach to cool off when a reporter stopped them to ask about the Burlington Surf Club, where both Williston women are members. “No! Don’t tell anyone about our secret spot!” joked Clear. “It’s not much of a secret anymore, but it’s such a special place,” Stever added. “You’ve got shade, you’ve got the beach, they provide picnic tables … and the sunsets here are just spectacular.” For years, people who walked and biked past the former Blodgett Oven factory in Burlington’s Lakeside neighborhood looked longingly at its scenic private beach and tree-lined lawn, which were off-limits to all but company employees. Burlington entrepreneur and lifelong surfer Russ Scully, who moved to the South End in 1997 with his wife, Roxanne, was among those who eyed 6
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the secluded spot whenever he rode by on the Burlington bike path. “Every time my eyes gazed over that fence at the enormous campus and buildings, my adrenaline would hit the roof,” Scully recalled in a recent blog post. “I’m not sure what excited me more, the repurposing of the buildings,
or the thought of launching kites and windsurfers from that huge stretch of beach.” Then, about four years ago, Scully bought the 14-acre waterfront complex and converted its buildings into Hula, a 150,000-square-foot coworking space and tech innovation center. Completed
in 2020, it’s now home to about 100 companies. But the Scullys, who also own the Spot and Spot on the Dock restaurants, as well as the WND&WVS surf shop on Pine Street, wanted the complex to include outdoor recreational opportunities. After all, where’s the fun in working alongside Lake Champlain if you can’t walk right outside your door at day’s end and go play in the water? Enter the Burlington Surf Club. Now in its fourth summer, the club offers annual memberships — $200 for singles, $300 for couples and $500 for families — as well as day-use passes for nonmembers, which cost $20 per adult, $30 per couple and $10 for ages 12 to 18. (Kids under 12 are free.) Access is readily available from the Burlington bike path or by car from Lakeside Avenue. Visitors to the club can enjoy free amenities, including a sand volleyball court, picnic tables, lawn games such as SHORE THING
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INFO The Burlington Surf Club is open daily, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., through Labor Day, with shorter daytime hours through the end of September. Learn more at burlingtonsurfclub.com.
Clockwise from left: The Burlington Surf Club beach, with a view of Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks; paddleboarders on the lake; check-in and the surf club shop
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are Roxanne Scully and Sabrina Gibson, Spikeball and cornhole, and barbecue pits; the latter a black belt Nia instructor and charcoal and lighter fluid are available if owner of Burlington’s South End Studio. you forget to bring your own, noted club In keeping with the Burlington Surf manager Sarah Krause. There’s even a Club’s goal of promoting active outdoor four-seat surrey bike for pedaling around lifestyles, Gibson and Roxanne Scully also the property. run weeklong sessions of SHE (strong, But the main attraction of the healthy, empowered) Girls Camp, now in Burlington Surf Club is Lake Champlain its sixth year. For three weeks in August, — specifically, getting on the water and girls ages 9 to 12 bond with one another in enjoying wind- and human-powered a safe and noncompetitive environment activities. To that and learn sports such end, members and as paddleboarding, nonmembers alike windsurfing, yoga, can rent standup sailing and Nia. Kids paddleboards (aka 9 to 16 also can be SUPs), windsurfing LISA STEVER enrolled in half-day gear and Hobie Cat SUP and windsurfing catamarans. Watercrafts are rented by the camps, with sessions held throughout the hour, half day or full day. Club membersummer. ships provide a 25 to 30 percent discount With summerlike heat starting early on most rentals, Krause noted, and wet this year, club manager Krause said suits are available free of charge. There are the weekends have been getting busier, changing rooms and restrooms on-site, especially with the easing of statewide and members can store their own canoes COVID-19 restrictions and the return of and kayaks in the club’s barns. tourists to the Burlington area. The club also takes appointments for But even on a particularly sweltering lessons in various water sports, including weekday, things were chill enough at the wing, foil and kitesurfing, aka kiteboardpavilion that a man sat meditating in a ing. A foil is similar to a kiteboard but lotus position, blissfully indifferent to the mostly rides above the water rather than freight trains rumbling by. carving through it. Winging is a relatively Stever, who has a family membership new sport that involves riding a board with her husband, David, and their two powered by a handheld inflatable wing, teenage daughters, said she often drops without the use of the nylon lines used in by for a couple of hours during the week kitesurfing. to paddle, read a book “or just have some A central feature of the Burlington quiet time” before picking up her daughSurf Club is its open-air, post-and-beam ters from school. pavilion, where classes are offered seven When the girls are on summer vacadays a week in yoga, meditation and other tion, the family often goes to the club for forms of fitness, flexibility and mindfulsunset dinners. ness. They include Nia, or neuromuscular “They bring their friends, and they integrative action, which blends yoga, paddle,” Stever said. “It’s just a little piece dance and martial arts. The Nia teachers of magic.” m
It’s just a little piece of magic.
From top: Slacklining at the Burlington Surf Club; a paddleboarder on the beach; paddleboard storage; a four-seat surrey bike for pedaling around the property; the club’s activity board
PHOTOS: BEAR CIERI
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Get out there and explore our region’s family-friendly museums.
Paddle, sail, or cruise on majestic Lake Champlain
6/18/21 1:45 PM
SALLY POLLAK IMAGES COURTESY OF OLD STONE HOUSE MUSEUM
Twilight in the Kingdom Brownington’s Old Stone House harnesses history to inform current conversations about race BY SA L LY P OL L A K • sally@sevendaysvt.com
A
t a crossroads in the village of Brownington, where Hinman Settler and Old Stone House roads meet, an enclave of buildings forms the Brownington Historic District. Once the center of a bustling and progressive educational hub, the site today offers an education in the legacy of a pioneering Vermonter. One structure at this dirt-road intersection in rural Orleans County stands above, and apart from, the clapboard buildings 10
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that surround it. Rising from the bucolic plateau is a four-story granite building called Athenian Hall. The building commands attention and compels a visitor to wonder who constructed it and what went on inside. The wondrous name of the man who conceived and built it between 1834 and 1836 adds to the intrigue: Alexander Twilight. If Athenian Hall’s architecture and aesthetic make you think you’ve stumbled
upon a solitary outpost of Middlebury College, there’s a reason: Twilight was an alumnus of Middlebury, one of 18 men to graduate in 1823. He is believed to be the first African American person to graduate from a U.S. college or university. In recognition of this and Twilight’s career as an educator, Athenian Hall — now commonly known as the Old Stone House Museum & Historical Village — is the northernmost stop on Vermont’s African American Heritage Trail and the
INFO The Old Stone House Museum & Historical Village is open Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., through October 10. Learn more at oldstonehousemuseum.org.
Above: Athenian Hall; a historic clock in the Old Stone House Museum; a photograph of Alexander Twilight
centerpiece of a 60-acre site that’s open to the public. William Hart, professor emeritus of history at Middlebury, is working on a biography of Twilight. Its publication will coincide with the bicentennial year of Twilight’s graduation — an occasion that will be celebrated by the college. Twilight achieved this milestone 40 years before president Abraham Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation. “My research suggests that either Middlebury didn’t know or didn’t care that he was a person of African descent,” Hart said, noting that in 1845 the college developed a policy of accepting Black students. Twilight was born and raised in Corinth by a white mother and a father of mixed race. After his graduation from Middlebury, he became an educator, pastor and legislator in Montpelier. He built Athenian Hall as a dormitory for students who attended Orleans County Grammar School, where he taught and served as headmaster between 1829 to 1855. “He was welcomed by the community there,” Hart said. “To me, he was welcome because he chose not to identify racially one way or another. I just think he, being a person of some racial ambiguity, was able to perform whiteness.” The buildings that comprise Brownington’s historic district include the schoolhouse Twilight ran, the Congregational church in which he preached, and the house he built in 1830, where he lived with his wife, Mercy, and student lodgers. Young people ages 8 to 20 came from surrounding towns in northern Vermont, as well as Québec, to attend the coeducational school and learn about natural history, physics, languages, religion, math and music. Today, about 3,500 people visit annually to see the museum, participate in an educational program or attend an event, according to executive director Molly Veysey. The museum and related buildings are open seasonally, while the one-mile Twilight Trail is walkable every day. The museum is dedicated to Twilight’s
Alexander Twilight is at the heart of everything here, the beating heart. MOLLY VEYSEY
Above: Artifacts at the Old Stone House Museum; gardens in front of the granite dormitory built by Alexander Twilight in the 1830s
school, and it displays aspects of academic and dormitory life. In the open hearth of the ground-floor kitchen, Mercy Twilight cooked for boarding students. The kitchen was equipped with water, available in a cistern designed by Twilight. Each dormitory room was heated by a small fireplace or brazier. The grammar school was guided by eight bylaws, including requirements that students “attend public worship on the Sabbath” and “treat each other with due respect.” “The students loved Twilight,” Hart said. “They loved his sense of humor. They
loved how he talked. There are accolades paid to him after his death by many students.” Stories about Twilight that have emerged in the years since his death sometimes describe a figure who’s larger than life, making him into a kind of “Paul Bunyan myth,” in Hart’s words. These tales describe Twilight as the sole builder of Athenian Hall who toiled with a team of oxen — including one animal that was slaughtered when construction was complete because the ox couldn’t make its way down from the fourth floor. In fact, receipts show that stonecutters and
sawyers worked on the building with Twilight, Hart said. “I’m sure he contributed a lot of sweat labor to this,” he said. “And he certainly contributed all of his financial resources to it.” In addition to exhibiting artifacts from the school and from Twilight’s life, the Old Stone House Museum functions as the historical society of several towns in the Northeast Kingdom. A set of rooms on the third floor display objects, furniture, textiles and art from towns including Charleston, Coventry, Glover and Jay. Surrounding these indoor exhibits are expansive and beautiful grounds ringed by the Twilight Trail. Built last summer by members of the Youth Conservation Corps at Northwoods Stewardship Center, the trail leads through fields and woods and past farmland. It heads to a lookout tower that offers marvelous views of Lake Memphremagog and Jay Peak, with a sight line on clear days to the White Mountains. Marked by interpretive signs that describe birds, wetlands and forest succession, the path connects the natural world to Twilight’s work as an educator. “Alexander Twilight is at the heart of everything here, the beating heart,” said Veysey. Although the museum focuses on Orleans County history, she believes it “can be relevant on a statewide level.” The museum’s contemporary mission, she added, is to use “this amazing story of an African American man and how he lived his life” as a “jumping-off point” for the discussion and celebration of “other stories of marginalized people in our region.” These stories have much to offer and can help inform current conversations about racial justice and equity, according to Veysey. “Historical societies have a reputation as a stage set,” she said. “We have the opportunity to become an actor, not a backdrop.” m SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2021
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Larger Than Life Cold Hollow Sculpture Park’s outsize artworks turn Enosburg Falls hayfields into a gallery BY A M Y L I L LY A dancer in front of “We Need to Talk”
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old Hollow Sculpture Park, just an hour’s drive north of Burlington in Enosburg Falls, is an alluring destination for a stroll or a picnic on a summer’s day. Visitors can explore three miles of grassy paths mown through hayfields against a background of rolling hills. The paths lead to, around and occasionally through nearly 70 enormous outdoor sculptures. All were created and sited by sculptor David Stromeyer, who owns the property with his wife, writer Sarah Stromeyer. The couple lives in a house on-site; he works in a studio on the grounds. Thirteen of Stromeyer’s sculptures were visible from the welcome center on opening day, June 12. That’s because a neighboring farmer had just mowed the hay, said the artist, who strolled the grounds with a reporter amid a steady stream of visitors. The art “look[s]
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different depending on the height of the fields,” he noted. Stromeyer bought this land 51 years ago and thinks of it as a gallery space. If he decides that the colors of one sculpture clash with those of another nearby, or if he’s made a new work that would complement a particular site better than an existing one, he doesn’t hesitate to move them around. That involves no small effort. Stromeyer’s sculptures span up to 20 feet tall and 30 feet across and are made of steel, concrete or other weighty materials. Moving a piece can require two cranes and necessitate digging up and replanting a concrete base. The artist keeps his five cranes in and near his studio, where he creates a few new works each summer. He also refurbishes the park’s older pieces, as well as works that have been on loan elsewhere — a never-ending job,
Looking through “Listen Closely”
COURTESY OF COLD HOLLOW SCULPTURE PARK
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COURTESY OF JOCK GILL
“Jumoke”
The outdoor site trades the formality of a museum for an evolving aesthetic vision encompassing weather, landscape and sky. Murmurations Dance artists in front of “High Wire Act”
COURTESY OF COLD HOLLOW SCULPTURE PARK
COURTESY OF HARRY GOLDHAGEN
considering he’s made 470 sculptures over the past half century. Stromeyer’s sculptures have been widely collected. In Vermont, two are sited at the University of Vermont and one at Lemon Fair Sculpture Park, Frank and Elaine Ittleman’s public park on their East Shoreham property. More Stromeyer pieces are held in the collections of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, the deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum, and Cornell University, among other venues across the U.S., Canada and Italy. But Cold Hollow is perhaps the best place to appreciate Stromeyer’s work. The outdoor site trades the formality of a museum for an evolving aesthetic vision encompassing weather, landscape and sky. The park also illuminates the sculptor’s wide range. The unpainted assemblage “After Hitchcock” (1977) features a massive fieldstone dangling improbably in the wind, while “Jumoke” (2013) is polished and colorful with its bright red-and-blue-painted steel volumes. Intended to evoke a male figure, “Jumoke” is positioned so that it looks across a field at “Ngozi,” a 19-foot-tall abstraction of a female figure in poured concrete. Encountering a large-scale sculpture inside a gallery can increase its impact; Cold Hollow’s expansive setting has the effect of reducing awareness of the sculptures’ massive scale until a viewer is at close range. The latter perspective also reveals surprising details, such as the way the bulging buckle in an upper sheet of steel in the boxy “Sheltered Sky” (1990) is mirrored on the underside of a lower one. Stromeyer arrives at the titles of his works only after they’re complete. He’s reluctant to offer interpretations; a printed guide illuminates each with just a sentence or two. As he put it, “I’ve done 98 percent of the work by getting it here; visitors can do the rest.” Our stroll took us past a couple gazing up at a 15-foot-tall yellow, pedestal-like form made from a rippled steel sheet and topped with a huge fieldstone. They asked the sculptor whether the piece was titled “Will You Marry Me?” because it reminded them of an engagement ring. Stromeyer smiled and played along: “Would that be a threat? Like you’d pick it up and throw it?” The sculpture is actually called “Do I Dare Disturb the Universe?” (2020), after a line by poet T.S. Eliot. Stromeyer is voluble when it comes to describing his process — particularly the kinds of engineering problems he needs to solve to enable a work to support its own weight for years in all weather. For his most recent work, “Body Politic,” the artist created the undulating pancakelike form in its center by dropping a
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5,000-pound fieldstone from a height of 30 feet onto two plates of steel, these set on a perimeter of stones on the ground. (Stromeyer used to shape many of his pieces using this rock-drop method before he built a hydraulic press in his studio.) For kicks, he released the clamp holding the fieldstone by shooting it with a gun. According to the sculptor, the process of making “Body Politic” takes up at least half of a forthcoming book about his process. The brief visitor’s guide at the park, meanwhile, hints at one reason for the sculpture’s complicated form: “A collective organization of individuals gathers for a purpose. Like all complex systems, it cannot be fully understood from any one vantage point.” Cold Hollow, which opened to the public in 2014, became a nonprofit in 2019. The intent was to establish a continuity plan for both the work and the land on which it was created. As executive director Rosemary Gill put it during opening day, “We want to be open forever, and free.” For both Gill and the Stromeyers, an important part of that vision is engaging other artists on-site through multidisciplinary public programming.
Five programs are scheduled for this season, whose theme is “Why We Make Things.” This is the first of a three-year exploration of the act of creating that will continue with “How We Make Things” in 2022 and “Amazing Makers” in 2023. On July 17, Boston-based interdisciplinary digital artist Jane D. Marsching, whose work focuses on climate change, will give a free talk on how “hope and radical imagination,” rather than fear, can help people act to reduce their environmental impact. The following day, Marsching will offer a two-hour workshop, for a limited number of participants and for a fee, in actualizing that approach by writing about their responses to the spaces and features of Cold Hollow. Participants of all walks of life are invited to explore how to make such hands-on, collaborative art experiences a part of their everyday practice. On August 21, two artists in residence — dancer-choreographer Laurel Jenkins and composer Matthew Evan Taylor, both Middlebury College professors — will present a collaborative performance among the sculptures. (Gill said chairs will be provided and the event will be fully accessible.) On September 18, former Maine poet
Visitors in front of “Jitterbug”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF COLD HOLLOW SCULPTURE PARK
“Threading the Needle”
laureate Baron Wormser will read from and discuss his approach to writing his novel, in which one character is based on Bob Dylan. Stromeyer himself wraps up the programming on October 9 with a walking artist’s talk about his newest sculptures. Gill formerly directed a Boston artist residency and devised public outreach for an outdoor sculpture park in Sweden. She said the urge to bring in other artists comes from her respect for
the creative drive — of Stromeyer and his cohort. “Cold Hollow Sculpture Park stops me in my tracks,” Gill declared. “It’s beautiful.” Visitors are likely to agree. m
INFO Cold Hollow Sculpture Park in Enosburg Falls is open noon to 6 p.m., Thursday through Sunday, until October 11. Free. coldhollowsculpturepark.com ST2v-dailyplanet062321 1
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A Little Romance A couple creates a warm Woodstock welcome for pampered getaways BY M ELI SSA PASANEN • pasanen@sevendaysvt.com
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COURTESY OF JENNA RICE
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f Isabelle Chicoine and Karim Houry had been good at math, they never would have fallen in love as teenagers, broken up, then reconnected 25 years later to marry and become the co-owners of a cozy Woodstock bed-and-breakfast that serves freshly baked brioche every morning. When they first met, Houry lived in the Paris area and Chicoine in the south of France. Their parents had enrolled the high schoolers in a summer camp to help “people who were struggling in math,” Chicoine explained. The camp was in Auvergne, a region in south-central France that, she added, “is actually pretty similar to Vermont. It has that country, big hills, low mountains kind of feel.” The sweethearts maintained a long-distance romance for about four years before they split up. “We were both each other’s first love,” Houry reflected. “Maybe it was too much for us so young.” Years passed, and each married someone else. Chicoine had four children. By 2009, she and Houry had landed in the New York City metropolitan area and were going through divorces. “We just kind of looked for each other and found each other,” Chicoine said. “The stars were aligned.” If it had been five years earlier, she said, the timing would have been wrong. Their first get-together, Houry said, “was like meeting a brand-new person that is so familiar.” Chicoine likened it to the easy reconnection between old friends, no matter how many years have passed. “You can just pick up again,” she said. Houry and Chicoine, now 57 and 55, respectively, eventually married in 2017. But as they became reacquainted, their desire to make up for lost time was inhibited by long commutes and busy jobs — his in finance, hers in marketing communications. “We were working an awful lot and not seeing each other at all,” Chicoine said. Plus, each was itching for change. “We had reached a time in our lives where we wanted something else,” she said.
The couple was on vacation in Colorado when the concept of buying a bed-and-breakfast first bubbled up. “We left a B&B there, and Karim tells me, ‘You know, I could see myself doing that.’ And I said, ‘You’re crazy,’” Chicoine recalled with a laugh. Gradually, the idea of moving somewhere quieter and working together on their own business gathered momentum. They started looking for a property. Vermont drew them for its steady flow of tourists. There were personal ties, too: Chicoine’s mother is French, but her father grew up in Burlington and she had visited Vermont as a child. The couple had also made several trips to the state when one of Chicoine’s daughters attended the University of Vermont. Exploring options, Chicoine said, “Woodstock really charmed us.” The town balanced a country feeling with a bustling village center, she explained — something “you don’t find in many places.” The Woodstocker B&B seemed just right for them, too. Dating back to 1830, the property had ample historic appeal and an established reputation — but also room for Chicoine and Houry to put their own stamp on it. The quiet location offered separate owners’ living quarters as well as garden space for guests, all just a short walk or bike ride into town. After an intense two-month renovation, Chicoine and Houry welcomed their first guests in late May 2018. Their Woodstocker blends oldworld charm — original wooden floors and rough-hewn structural posts and beams — with modern upgrades, such as infrared saunas in two rooms and a striking translucent red tub in another. All rooms have king beds, thick terry bathrobes, complimentary slippers and gas fireplaces for cool nights. Bathrooms are stocked with locally crafted soaps and lotions, and guests are greeted with a personalized note, a vase of flowers and maple candies. If that all sounds a bit romantic, it is. Whether you’re in a freshly minted relationship, celebrating a milestone anniversary or magically reconnecting after many years, the Woodstocker
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Woodstock really charmed us.
ISABELLE CHICOINE
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE WOODSTOCKER B&B
caters largely to couples. It’s not set up to accommodate children under 16. The goal is to provide a relaxing, indulgent adult getaway. The couple has nothing against kids, Chicoine explained, but they change the whole atmosphere. “I had four,” she said. “I know!” Each of the nine rooms has its own personality. One boasts a private terrace with Adirondack chairs. Another is decorated with twinkly lights and resembles the interior of a log cabin. A third has a pair of side-by-side clawfoot tubs. On a late spring overnight, the Finnish heritage of this reporter’s husband dictated a room with a sauna. We checked ourselves in following clear instructions, dropped our bags in our first-floor suite and slipped into the sauna to heat up. We weren’t far from home, but many of the Woodstocker’s guests hail from around the Northeast. Pre-pandemic, most would have been greeted by the innkeepers, but the flexibility of self-check-in has been a success, and Chicoine and Houry plan to keep it. After a restorative sauna, we strolled into the village for a late dinner at Mangalitsa. The excellent farm-to-table restaurant is currently relocating to Peace Field Farm — a move that will bring the farm even closer to the table. There are several other good dining options in town, and the innkeepers are happy to advise. That night we meandered home through quiet streets under a velvet sky bedazzled with stars and a crescent moon. We crossed the Ottauquechee River on the Mountain Avenue covered bridge and passed a white steepled church with glowing stained-glass windows before arriving “home” to fall into our comfortable, crisp-sheeted bed. The next morning, we had a seated breakfast in the dining room. Another pandemic adaptation that will stick around is the option to enjoy a full in-room breakfast. Some guests prefer
Clockwise from left: Breakfast in bed; homemade cookie selection; exterior of the Woodstocker B&B entrance; owners Isabelle Chicoine and Karim Houry SEVEN DAYS STAYTRIPPER JULY 2021
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COURTESY OF LYNN BOHANNON
Local artisans created the woodwork in several of the rooms.
Entrance to the Woodstocker B&B
A Little Romance « P.17 the convivial between-table conversation that percolates along with morning coffee, while others just want to focus on each other, Chicoine observed. Houry delivered coffee and a basket of pillowy brioche rolls. His wife bakes them fresh daily. “Brioche is the quintessential French morning bread, next to croissants,” she said. “I just thought, if I was going to have a B&B, that’s one of the things I wanted to do.” Houry serves breakfast while his wife cooks. They carefully considered the division of labor before jumping into bed-and-breakfast ownership — even 18
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taking a blind questionnaire to make sure they were aligned, like a newlywed game of business ownership. “We didn’t want to be, you know, both wanting to do the same thing, [like] nobody wants to do accounting and everybody wants to do food,” Chicoine explained. But, she added, “Karim jokes a lot. He told me, ‘I tell [guests] I do everything.’” The breakfast options are sourced as locally as possible, with options to meet all dietary considerations. I chose the Vermonter: a generously stuffed Plymouth cheddar cheese omelette with sausage and crisp potatoes served in an adorable mini Dutch oven. My
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE WOODSTOCKER B&B
Bathroom with double clawfoot tubs
ICE NA R COURTESY OF JEN
A breakfast omelette with potatoes
husband stuck with his Scandinavian theme and opted for smoked salmon with scrambled eggs and sautéed zucchini. In the summer, breakfast is also served on the patio, a favorite afternoon spot for BYOB sipping and grazing on cheese and charcuterie platters, which Chicoine can create with advance notice. She is also happy to pack picnic lunches featuring local bread, cheeses, hardboiled eggs and apples. Such a picnic would fuel any number of activities the couple recommends to guests: maybe a hike from the Woodstocker through Faulkner Park up Mount Tom to the carriage trails of the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park, or an electric bike ride toward Pomfret along quiet dirt roads. Area destinations include Billings Farm & Museum, the Rockefeller mansion
and the Vermont Institute of Natural Science. Downtown Woodstock offers plenty of shopping and, from June through October, the Wednesday afternoon Market on the Green, featuring fresh produce, live music, locally made ice cream and crafts. On steamy summer days, Chicoine directs guests to local swimming holes or Silver Lake in Barnard, “a lovely 15-minute drive away.” Sometimes the innkeepers even get to enjoy their own recommendations. Instead of 90 minutes, “My commute is 25 seconds on a bad day — when there’s a headwind,” Houry said with a laugh. “In the summer, we might hop on a bicycle and go into town for dinner,” he said. It all adds up to more time to spend with the one you love. m
INFO The Woodstocker B&B, 61 River St., Woodstock, 457-3896, thewoodstockerbnb.com. Untitled-11 1
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Destinations
Discover our newly expanded collection of local art and gifts! breakfast • lunch • weekend brunch outdoor seating first come, first served order in-person or online for takeout WED-FRI: 7:30 AM - 2 PM • SAT & SUN: 9 AM - 2 PM
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277 Lavigne Rd., Colchester • M-Sa 7am- 7pm • Su 7am-6pm sammazzafarms.com • See our monthly sale coupon! • MC/Visa/Disc 20
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1239 Edwards Rd., Jeffersonville, 644-9300, arbortrek.com. Advanced reservations encouraged.
Summer provides countless ways to explore the natural beauty of Vermont, but few options allow folks to see the forest from the trees. ArborTrek Canopy Adventures invites guests to soar, swing and climb their way through the treetops on three separate family-friendly eco-adventures. Adventurers with a need for speed will be drawn toward the awardwinning Zip Line Canopy Tour. The fully guided excursion combines the high-speed thrills of zip-lining with a bird’s-eye view of northern Vermont and commentary on its ecology and history. Those seeking more of a physical challenge can test their prowess in the Treetop Obstacle Course. With more than 85 elements, including wobbly bridges, rope swings and cargo nets, the self-guided courses range from easy to extremely In the area… challenging. People who prefer to start • BRYAN MEMORIAL GALLERY, with their feet on the ground 180 Main St., Jeffersonville, and work their way up will bryangallery.org enjoy the Climbing Adventure. • SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH DISTILLERY, Thanks to its innovative climb5087 Route 15, Jeffersonville, ing holds, it has never been smugglersnotchdistillery.com easier — or more tree-friendly • SMUGGLERS‘ NOTCH RESORT, — to conquer a conifer. 4323 Route 108, Jeffersonville, Each adventure can be smuggs.com booked individually, or guests can choose to tackle all three in a single day by purchasing an All-Day Adventure Package. ArborTrek also offers private events and team-building programs to groups looking to develop new ways of working together. Said ArborTrek president Michael Smith, “Our tours are designed to reconnect not only with the outdoors, but with yourself and the group you’re traveling with.” BRYAN PAR M E L E E
COURTESY OF ARBORTREK CANOPY ADVENTURES
ARBORTREK CANOPY ADVENTURES
Welcome Back
WATERBURY ADVENTURE CHALLENGE
Our outdoor patio seating is now open!
Through October 11 at various Waterbury locations. $75; free for kids 14 and under. discoverwaterbury.com
MAKE YOUR
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NEW YEAR’S SALES EVENT
COURTESY OF DISCOVER WATERBURY
Philosopher John Dewey theorized that learners must interact with their environments in order to acquire new knowledge. In other words, to learn, we must do. Tourism organization Discover Waterbury gets on board with the learning-by-doing approach with its Waterbury Adventure Challenge. This ongoing activity encourages folks to discover local history and present-day attractions through a stimulating scavenger hunt. Guided by the story of a Waterbury-born Civil War surgeon, participants explore the village and surrounding areas as they solve a series of puzzles and riddles to discover a mystical bridge between past and present. “There is plenty of puzzle-solving for folks who want to stretch their mind and hiking for those who want to stretch their legs,” explained
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Others hibernate. You embrace it. From a day in the mountains to a day pushing snow, outside is where it’s at this year.
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Revitalizing Waterbury marketing In the area… associate Ariel Mondlak. Participants may play individually • BRIDGESIDE BOOKS, or in teams and may complete tasks at 29 Stowe St., Waterbury, bridgesidebooks.com their own pace. Finishing the challenge • LITTLE RIVER STATE PARK, is no quick feat, so out-of-towners may 3444 Little River Rd., Waterbury, wish to take advantage of the Stay & Play vtstateparks.com package, which includes discounted • THE RESERVOIR, lodging at participating hotels with the 1 S. Main St., Waterbury, purchase of two Waterbury Adventure waterburyreservoir.com Challenge tickets. In addition to bragging rights as a local expert, rewards include the chance to win prizes valued at $250 to $500. Win or lose, players are sure to learn a thing or two. As Mondlak put it, “The game takes players to locations throughout town that bring these stories to life in a way that books cannot, with players discovering or rediscovering the people and places who helped shape the town as we know it.” KRIST EN RAVIN
CHAMPLAIN VALLEY EQUIPMENT VISIT OUR SHOWROOMS IN ST. ALBANS & DERBY, VT VISIT OUR SHOW ROOM champlainvalleyequipment.com | 802-388-4951
WARNING: Polaris® off‑road vehicles can be hazardous to operate and are not intended for on‑road use. Driver must be at least 16 years old with a valid driver’s license to operate. Passengers, if permitted, must be at least 12 years old. All riders should always wear helmets, eye protection, and protective clothing. Always use seat belts and cab nets or doors (as equipped). Never engage in stunt driving, and avoid excessive speeds and sharp turns. Riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix. All riders should take a safety training course. Call 800-342-3764 for additional information. Check local laws before riding on trails. ©2021 Polaris Inc.
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Destinations NEED SOME NEW GEAR? SHOP SAVVY AND KEEP VERMONT STRONG.
Need some ideas?
Wednesdays through Sundays through October, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., at Shelburne Museum. $12-65; free for members and kids under 5. shelburnemuseum.org
Many Vermonters are familiar with Shelburne Museum: The 45-acre campus is home to 39 unique structures, including one landlocked steamboat, housing everything from folk art to French impressionist paintings. This summer, four new exhibitions provide a compelling reason to return, or perhaps visit for the first time. “At the heart of all Shelburne Museum’s offerings are its endlessly compelling and extensive collections,” reads its website. To that end, “Painting a Nation” reintroduces viewers to works from the museum’s extensive American paintings collection. Composed of pieces by John Singleton Copley, Winslow Homer, Grandma Moses and others, the collection was assembled by Electra Havemeyer Webb, who founded the museum in 1947. This season marks the first time patrons have seen these paintings in Vermont in more than a decade. The USA theme also threads through “Revisiting America: The Prints of Currier & Ives.” Hand-colored lithographs from the largest printmaking company of the 19th century depict bucolic pastimes, as well as social and political issues of the day. The Northeast and its residents get their due in “New England Now: People.” This multimedia group show is the second exhibition in a new biennial series featuring
OSLYN MUSEUM
LBURNE MUSEUM/J
“American National Game of Baseball” by Currier & Ives
SHOP TH E R EG I S T E R . C OM
In the area… regional contemporary artists. Photography, paintings, • FURCHGOTT SOURDIFFE, 86 Falls Rd., sculpture and performance Shelburne, fsgallery.com art “portray multifaceted and • PEG & TER’S, 5573 Shelburne Rd., evolving concepts of the ‘New Shelburne, pegandters.com Englander,’” according to the • SHELBURNE COUNTRY STORE, show’s description. 29 Falls Rd., Shelburne, One of the best reasons to shelburnecountrystore.com visit Shelburne Museum in the summer is the opportunity to get out of the gallery and view art outside. The lush grounds feature walking paths, more than 20 gardens and, through October 17, mixed-media sculptures by Peter Kirkiles. The artist’s open-air show “At Scale” showcases his interpretations of everyday objects, such as a clock, a ruler and a truck, rendered at what Kirkiles calls “human scale.”
WITH GENEROUS SUPPORT FROM:
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COURTESY OF SHE
Visit the Register for all the info on area shopkeepers who are selling their products online for local delivery or pickup. Browse by categories ranging from jewelry to electronics, outdoor gear to apparel. Whether you need something for yourself or that perfect gift for a loved one, shop savvy and keep Vermont strong.
SUMMER EXHIBITIONS AT SHELBURNE MUSEUM
5/20/21 5:02 PM
Take the road less traveled
BREAD AND PUPPET THEATER 753 Heights Rd., Glover, 525-3031, breadandpuppet.org
Enjoy nonsexual family nudity in the great outdoors with plenty of room for COVID-19 distancing.
COURTESY OF LEONARDO MARCH/BREAD AND PUPPET THEATER
We promote a healthy and positive naturist lifestyle. We have cabins, RV sites and tenting sites. Day and seasonal trips $38 for a single and/or family 468 Beebe Hill Rd., Milton, VT | 802-893-7773 | coventryresort.com | info@coventryresort.com
Since Peter Schumann founded it in 1963, Bread and Puppet Theater has gained international recognition for its distinctive papier-mâché puppets, unabashed political commentary and the homemade bread served at its large-scale outdoor productions. This summer, the theater will acknowledge its storied history with Our Domestic Resurrection Circus, a new show held Saturdays and Sundays from July 10 through the end of August. The production celebrates the 50th anniversary of the iconic circuses that began when the troupe first relocated to Vermont from New York City in the early 1970s. The massive two-day festivals were held annually through 1998. “More Bread and Puppet alumni have influenced this show than ever,” In the area… said resident company member Uriel Najera. “It’s going to be a really big • THE MUSEUM OF EVERYDAY LIFE, spectacle.” 3482 Dry Pond Rd., Glover, Audiences can expect the usual museumofeverydaylife.org combination of what makes the • PARKER PIE, 161 County Rd., theater’s performances so unique and West Glover, parkerpie.com memorable: stilt-dancing, puppetry • WILLEY’S STORE, 7 Breezy Ave., and a bombastic brass band. Greensboro, 533-2621 Visitors to Bread and Puppet’s Glover farm can also revisit the theater’s remarkable history at the Bread and Puppet Museum, open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Housed in a 150-year-old barn, the museum is filled to the rafters with artifacts from past productions, including largerthan-life puppets that tower over visitors as they explore the sprawling space. Hand-printed posters and banners are available for purchase in the museum shop and on the nearby Cheap Art Bus. Tickets to Our Domestic Resurrection Circus must be purchased in advance on Bread and Puppet’s website. BRYAN PARMELEE
E-BIKES AND BOATS! Pedal, then paddle, your way along this unique self-guided adventure tour!
VERMONT CANOE & KAYAK
LAMOILLE VALLEY BIKE TOURS
4805 VT Route 15, Jeffersonville 802-644-8336 vtcanoeandkayak.com
Creamery Street, Johnson 802-730-0161 lamoillevalleybiketours.com
On the Lamoille River! CANOES • KAYAKS • TOURS RENTALS • GROUPS
On the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail! E-BIKES • TOURS • RENTALS SALES • GROUPS
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THERE’S A LANDMARK AT EVERY TURN. Beyond four walls there’s room to grow, space to listen, and freedom to feel however one might feel. Vermont’s natural beauty may just get us there.
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