Taste FOOD / WINE / DINING OUT
Got Apricots? DON’T MISS THIS FREESTONE FRUIT’S FLEETING SEASON, WHEN ITS DELICATE FRESH FLAVOR CAN ENHANCE BOTH SWEET AND SAVORY DISHES. By Nancy Ransohoff
W
hether they’re picked from a backyard tree or plucked from farmers’market bins, now is the time to gather apricots by the bushel. One of the earliest-ripening stone fruits, these golden beauties have a short growing season that can begin in late April, depending on weather and rain. With skins the color of sunset and tangy-sweet flesh, apricots are also endlessly versatile. Toss them in a spring salad or a zesty salsa, or showcase them in desserts like cobblers and tarts. They also enhance beef, poultry, and seafood in accompanying sauces. Here, three area chefs and a cooking-class instructor share recipes for simple-to-prepare dishes featuring apricots to make the most of their short but sweet season.
In this dish, Luis Alberto Sanchez, chef and owner of Mouthful Eatery (mouthfuleatery.com) in Thousand Oaks, calls for apricots in both a glaze for the salmon and the accompanying couscous. “California apricots are the perfect combination of sweet and tangy,” he says. “When grilled they gain a lovely caramelized flavor with a subtle smokiness, complementing the salmon beautifully.” Serves 4 4 6-ounce skinless fresh salmon fillets GLAZE 5 extra-ripe fresh apricots 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon chopped, fresh ginger 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper COUSCOUS 5 pitted fresh apricots, halved 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock 2 tablespoons salt 1½ cups couscous ¾ cup green beans, blanched and cut
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into ½-inch pieces ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ½ cup chopped toasted pistachios 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Remove any bones from salmon fillets and lay them in a shallow dish. To make glaze: With a knife, score a cross into the skin at the bottom of each apricot, taking care to pierce the flesh as little as possible. Prepare an ice bath and set it near the stove. In a small saucepan bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Place apricots in boiling water for 2 minutes; using a slotted spoon transfer apricots to ice bath. Once apricots are cool to the touch, remove peels, starting where the score marks cross. Remove pits. Place peeled and pitted apricots and all remaining glaze ingredients in a food processor and blend to a smooth paste. Divide the paste, or glaze, into two bowls, setting one aside. With a pastry brush, apply the glaze from the other bowl to both sides of each salmon fillet. Place salmon in refrigerator to marinate for at least 1 hour. To make couscous: Preheat grill or broiler. Grill apricots halves for 2 minutes on each side or broil in the oven until flesh begins to caramelize. Cool and chop apricots in a medium dice. In a medium saucepan, bring stock to a boil. Add salt and couscous. Cover and cook on low heat for about 15 minutes. Place
couscous in a large bowl, add remaining ingredients, and gently toss to combine. Place on serving platter. Transfer salmon fillets to a skillet and sear for 4 minutes on each side at medium-high heat. Gently brush remaining glaze on the cooked fish, reserving a small amount to add just before serving. Transfer salmon serving platter atop couscous. Add more glaze as desired.
APRICOT GALETTE Laurence Hauben leads Market Forays (marketforays.com) cooking classes and culinary adventures in Santa Barbara. She is also a working partner at Penryn Orchard Specialties (penrynorchardspecialties.com), located in the foothills of the Sierras, and serves as executive chef for Roblar Winery in Santa Ynez. “This dessert is easy and informal yet very tasty and attractive in a simple country way,” Hauben says. “If you don’t have time to make your own puff pastry, buy it from the best source you can; but the puff pastry is a lot easier to realize than most people think.” Nectarines, peaches, or plums can be substituted for the apricots. Serves 6 to 8 1 large sheet puff pastry (recipe follows) 1½ pounds apricots, pitted 1 cup apricot jam >
© SUSAN BROOKS-DAMMANN/STOCKSY UNITED
APRICOT-GLAZED PAN-SEARED SALMON WITH GRILLED APRICOT AND PISTACHIO COUSCOUS
