805 Living September 2021 by 805 Living

SE P T E M BE R 202 1

Food &Wine Magnolia Network’s Elizabeth Poett shares some of her favorite recipes and a glimpse of her life on the ranch.

LOC ALLY SO U RCE D · S E A SO NAL I N G R E D I E NTS · WOO D FI R E D 6 : 3 0A M - 1 0 P M

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sssse — W A L T

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R A M S E YA S P H A LT. C O M

Morgan Stanley is proud to congratulate

Seth Haye

Named one of Forbes’ Best-in-State Wealth Advisors Ranked #10 – State of California, Los Angeles Area Being named to Forbes’ 2021 Best-in-State Wealth Advisors list is a testament to your experience, professionalism and dedication to your clients. Thank you for the work you do each day and for carrying forward the culture of excellence at our firm. The Oaks Group at Morgan Stanley Seth Haye Managing Director Senior Portfolio Management Director Financial Advisor 100 N. Westlake Blvd., Suite 200 Westlake Village, CA 91362 805- 494-0215 seth.haye@morganstanley.com http://www.morganstanleyfa.com/ theoaksgroup

Source: Forbes.com (February, 2021). Forbes Best-in-State Wealth Advisors ranking was developed by SHOOK Research and is based on in-person, virtual and telephone due diligence meetings to evaluate each advisor qualitatively, a major component of a ranking algorithm that includes: client retention, industry experience, review of compliance records, firm nominations; and quantitative criteria, including: assets under management and revenue generated for their firms. Investment performance is not a criterion because client objectives and risk tolerances vary, and advisors rarely have audited performance reports. Rankings are based on the opinions of SHOOK Research, LLC and are not indicative of future performance or representative of any one client’s experience. Neither Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC nor its Financial Advisors or Private Wealth Advisors pay a fee to Forbes or SHOOK Research in exchange for the ranking. For more information, see www.SHOOKresearch.com. © 2021 Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC. Member SIPC.

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YOUR ESCAPE

5 reasons to explore Yosemite this fall Fall in the Yosemite region is something to behold. You can admire fall foliage in Yosemite Valley, hike a waterfall trail and see the world’s largest trees. It’s easy to experience this when you stay at Tenaya Lodge, which is just two miles from Yosemite National Park. With so much to do, where do you begin? Here are 5 surefire hits you should experience this autumn.

1 2 3 4 5

Go on a guided Yosemite tour on our comfortable tour buses and enjoy the crisp fall air.

Explore the astonishing Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, which is home to Yosemite’s largest giant sequoia grove.

Grab a cocktail and relax at Tenaya’s outdoor resort pool, which features music playing underwater.

Feeling brave? Climb Half Dome. Keep in mind reservations are required.

Catch an otherworldly sunrise and sunset from Glacier Point.

Make this fall your best yet. Plan your Yosemite getaway now at TenayaLodge.com

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Contents SEPTEMBER 2021 • FOOD & WINE

THE FLAVOR OF THE CENTRAL COAST

Elizabeth Poett meshes ranch traditions and contemporary flair.

THE CLASS OF CLENDENEN

Jim Clendenen’s legacy lives on in the winemakers he mentored.

By Matt Kettmann Photographs by Gar y Moss

By Joan Tapper Photographs by Gar y Moss

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

The subjects of the Magnolia Network television series Ranch to Table, local ranchers Elizabeth Poett and Austin Campbell sip wine from mason jars as they grill steaks at the family’s Rancho San Julian. (Find more about Poett and some of her recipes on page 74.)

GARY MOSS; COVER: GARY MOSS

Features 74

ESCAPE IN A MOMENT

Take time to revel in the joy of travel, share magical moments with loved ones, and discover new culinary adventures at Ojai’s beloved 220-acre retreat — just a short drive away. Delight your palate with epicurean artistry at The Farmhouse, rejuvenate at Spa Ojai, and find sanctuary in our private villas and fully refreshed guestrooms. Our serene mountain valley welcomes you to escape in a moment with Ojai’s rare spirit.

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Contents SEPTEMBER 2021 • FOOD & WINE

49 98

52 71

Departments of the 805

By Leslie Dinaberg, Victoria Woodard Harvey, Erin Rottman, and Joan Tapper

Finds 49 Into the Woodwork

Nature’s strongest plant material lends durable beauty to culinary tools. By Jennie Nunn

52 STYLE: Go Dutch

Clogs aren’t just for chefs anymore. Slip into a fresh take on the classic. By Frances Ryan

54 TRAVEL

By Erin Rottman

Insider 58 Events In & Around the 805

By Heidi Dvorak

Faces in the Crowd 60 James Rogers

The founder of Apeel Sciences is eliminating food waste one avocado at a time. By Anthony Head Photograph by Gary Moss

Good Deeds 62 Ganna Walska Lotusland Petal to the Metal Fête

Upgrades 71 Cooking Style

Add an air of sophistication to the kitchen with a lavish use of black. By Frances Ryan

Taste 92 FOOD: Hands On

Try these true Italian— and local—recipes for making perfect pasta from scratch at home (no pasta machine required). By Jaime Lewis

96 WINE: Pushing the Coastal Extreme Winemakers find freshness, complexity, and challenges 14

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

when growing grapes so close to the seaside. By Matt Kettmann

98 DINING OUT:

What’s new on the local restaurant scene.

By Nancy Ransohoff

P.S. Sketchpad 112 Local Food Purveyors By Greg Clarke

In Every Issue

20 Editor’s Note 26 Masthead 34 Behind the Scenes

100 Where to Eat Now

Visit Us Online! 805living.com Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Spotify, Apple, Google, and YouTube keyword: 805Living Check out our website for the free digital version of 805 Living (smartphone- and tablet-compatible, it’s also on issuu.com). Tune in to our free Spotify playlists (keyword: 805 Living) and 805 Living Eats podcasts available on Apple, Google, and Spotify (keyword: 805 Living Eats). Become an 805 Living Insider! Sign up to receive “The Insider,” our free mid-month newsletter that provides additional suggestions for local events and activities, lastminute getaway ideas, and little extras—like food and wine tips—to help you get through the month. Insiders will also receive special offers, contest news, event invitations, and more. Subscribe at 805living.com.

96: CHRIS LESCHINKSKY PHOTOGRAPHY; 49: GARY MOSS; 98: ROB TRAN

Pulse 41 Tracking the Beat

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Editor’s Note

15 Courses and Still, the Chef Keeps Cooking IN A STANDARD 12-COURSE DINNER MENU, you should expect to enjoy—in the following order—an hors d’oeuvre, amuse-bouche, soup, appetizer, salad, fish, first main course, palate cleanser, second main course, cheese course, dessert, and mignardise (the last course, which translates from an old French word as “delicate fondling,” is typically a parting gesture from the chef in the form of a bite-size morsel meant to send the very full diner away happy and feeling special). So to acknowledge the 15th anniversary of our annual Food & Wine issue, we’ve produced three additional courses for the celebration. To begin with, we have an important story covering the cutting-edge future of food (Faces in the Crowd, page 60). James Rogers of Apeel Sciences in Goleta is on a mission to eliminate food waste. One of his early successes was to double the shelf life of avocados, and he has his sights set on your favorite produce. Later, we share the story of a local cattle rancher and her family. Elizabeth Poett first caught our eye when we featured her Rancho San Julian beef company in our September 2009 Food & Wine issue, and we’ve been following her ever since. She’s now caught the eye of Chip and Joanna Gaines, the home-improvement stars behind the new Magnolia Network, which features Poett’s television series, The Ranch Table. 805 Living visited the ranch, where Poett prepared some dishes to show off “The Flavor of the Central Coast” (page 74). Finally, we added a toast in memory of one of the Central Coast’s finest wine pioneers, educators, and vintners, Jim Clendenen. In mid-May, Clendenen, the founder of Santa Maria’s renowned Au Bon Climat Winery, passed away, and the messages of disbelief, sadness, and remembrances began flooding in-boxes, social media platforms, and wine-tasting rooms throughout California. In addition to making world-class wines, Clendenen was greatly admired as a teacher and mentor. Beginning on page 84, we let some of his students reflect on his life and legacy. There is, of course, much more to enjoy in this issue. I would recommend pouring a glass of Au Bon Climat pinot noir before turning the page, though. Once you’ve begun, it’s a long time before this Food & Wine experience is over.

Lynne Andujar Editor in Chief & Publisher

GARY MOSS

edit@805living.com

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

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EDITOR IN CHIEF & PUBLISHER

Lynne Andujar

edit@805living.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Bernard Scharf EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Kathy Tomlinson DESIGNER

Sophie Patenaude PHOTO EDITOR

Gary Moss

photo@805living.com CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Heidi Dvorak, Jennie Nunn (Shopping), Erin Rottman (Travel), Frances Ryan (Fashion, Interior Design) CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Leslie Dinaberg, Victoria Woodard Harvey, Matt Kettmann, Jaime Lewis, Nancy Ransohoff, Joan Tapper CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Greg Clarke RESEARCH EDITOR

Tajinder Rehal CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

Gary Moss CONSULTING EDITOR

Anthony Head

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© 2021 Sotheby’s International Realty. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby’s International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Each Sotheby’s International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby’s International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice. Patty Murphy DRE: 766586

Behind the Scenes We asked our featured writers what local ingredient they turn to most for their culinary endeavors. Here is what they said. Matt Kettmann “I use garlic in almost everything I make,” says contributing writer Matt Kettmann (“The Class of Clendenen,” page 84, and Taste/Wine, page 96). “We always have a bulb on hand from Chris Milliken Farms, because they come every Saturday in our Local Harvest Delivery box.”

Joan Tapper

“Strawberries in season,” says contributing writer Joan Tapper (Pulse, page 41, and “The Flavor of the Central Coast,” page 74). “But the easiest, most local ingredient is rosemary from my garden for marinades and rubs.”

“It’s always a dare to bring home live Santa Barbara spot prawns, abalone from The Cultured Abalone Farm, or a whole fish from the Saturday fisherman’s market, but I’ve managed to make a few memorable dishes that keep me going back,” says contributing writer Victoria Woodard Harvey (Pulse, page 41.) “Nothing inspires like a deadline and a sink full of wriggling things that won’t wait.”

KETTMANN: JOANNA KETTMANN; HARVEY: JRS PHOTOGRAPHY

Victoria Woodard Harvey

Behind the Scenes Some of our featured experts share what local culinary ingredient they call upon most. “Farm-fresh organic eggs for pasta” —Antonio Sessa

(Taste/Food, page 92) owner, executive chef Made in Italy Westlake Village madeinitalybistro.com

“Olive oil. It’s high-quality, and local sourcing carries a lower environmental impact.” —Luca Crestanelli

(Taste/Food, page 92) owner/partner, executive chef S.Y. Kitchen Santa Ynez sykitchen.com

“Margerum Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oil as a finishing oil for grilled foods, salads, and pastas.”

“Basque turban garlic from Noey at Yes Yes Nursery. I put it in everything.” —Elizabeth Poett

(“The Flavor of the Central Coast,” page 74) rancher The Ranch Table Rancho San Julian theranchtable.com

CRESTANELLI: BRI BURKETT; MARGERUM: HEATHER DAENITZ OF CRAFT & CLUSTER

—Douglas Barden Margerum

(“The Class of Clendenen,” page 84) owner Margerum Wine Company and Barden Wines Buellton and Santa Barbara margerumwines.com

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A DV E R T I S E M E N T

COMMON MISBELIEFS

ABOUT REVERSE MORTGAGES A reverse mortgage requires monthly mortgage payments. False! There is no monthly mortgage payment. You will be responsible for paying property taxes, homeowner’s insurance, HOA fees, and home maintenance.

My children/heirs will be responsible for repayment of the loan. False! A reverse mortgage is a non-recourse loan. This means the lender cannot come after you or your heirs. Your heirs will not be responsible for repayment and have an option of repaying the loan and buying the house for themselves.

If I get a reverse mortgage, I cannot sell my home. False! A reverse mortgage is like any other loan. If you sell your home, the reverse mortgage lien will be paid off at closing. There are no prepayment penalties for paying off or selling the home. Finally, remember, you will not be responsible for the loan balance that exceeds your home value! Interested in learning if a reverse mortgage can help you? Contact Pattye Zeto at pattye@pclfg.com or 818-865-0600.

ABOVE: ©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/FATCAMERA

Does my home need to be “Free and Clear” to qualify?

have helped many people use a reverse mortgage to convert part of their primary residence home equity into cash without selling their home. Each time, I have dispelled many myths about reverse mortgages and eased people’s fears about these unique loan products.

I’ll be selling my home to the lender or government. False! The homeowner—or estate—keeps the title to the home. Lenders are not in the business of owning homes. The lender’s interest is limited to the outstanding loan balance as a lien on the property.

Factors that help determine how much you qualify for: • • • •

You will need adequate equity in the property. Many clients obtain a reverse mortgage for this precise reason—to get rid of their monthly mortgage payments.

Can I sell my home if I get a reverse mortgage? A reverse mortgage is like any other loan. If you sell your home, the reverse mortgage lien will be paid off at closing. There are no prepayment penalties for Patricia Zeto, VP of Client Relations paying off or selling the home. PCL Financial Group

Connect With the Experts

The more your home is worth, the more access you have to a large The Mark Klein Team at PCL amount of equity you’ve built over the Financial Group is a full-service lender Age of the youngest borrower years! We offer reverse mortgage loan offering expertise in every area of Market value of the home amounts up to four million dollars. mortgage lending. While I am the VP Existing mortgage balance Do not hesitate to reach out to me so of Client Relations, I also specialize in Distribution type and interest rates I can answer any questions you have. reverse mortgages, a topic that I am —Patricia Zeto passionate about. NMLS# 944574 PCL Financial Group VP of Client Relations www.pclfinancialgroup.com nmlsconsumeraccess.org pattye@pclfg.com NMLS# 227765

Pulse

T R AC K I N G T H E B E AT O F T H E 8 0 5

Jules Coast Caviar shop in Montecito is devoted to specialty foods, such as caviar from California Caviar Company, which is harvested through a proprietary “no-kill” process.

GARY MOSS

RESPONSIBLE ROE

FOODIE FINDS

Aleigh Rey, co-owner of Jules Coast Caviar (caviarsb. com) gourmet food shop can’t help but share her passion for fine foods. Formerly a food buyer for Harrod’s of London, the longtime Montecito resident came upon a sustainable California caviar that she now makes available at the shop and for local delivery 24/7, complete with blini and crème fraîche in a bright pink bag. The California caviar is sustainably harvested via a patented “no-kill” process, which suits the animal-

loving Rey, who donates 10 percent of all sales to local charities that benefit animals and the environment. Other artisanal items from the Coast Village Road shop include 14 flavors of Nancy’s Fancy, chef Nancy Silverton’s gelato (the Meyer Lemon Torrone flavor can’t be restocked fast enough) and sorbetto (sorbet); handblended herbal teas from Art of Tea; and handmade chocolates by Compartés in flavors like Donuts and Coffee and Cookies and Cream. “Fine foods are my heart —Victoria Woodard Harvey and soul,” says Rey. SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

Pulse

(FOODIE FINDS, continued)

NEW DOUGH MAINS

An excellent life hack for turning out delicious baked goods at home comes from The Happy Little Loaf (thehappylittleloaf.com), a Santa Barbara–based delivery service offering a variety of ready-to-bake doughs, complete with easy baking instructions. The new enterprise came into being earlier this year after two bread enthusiasts began sharing their homemade pizza dough with friends. Now their unbaked wares are available for sale à la carte or in featured boxed trios, such as French baguette, croissant, and pistachio biscotti or Italian ciabatta, grissini, and chocolate crinkle cookie dough. “My favorite part is making the deliveries each week to see how happy it makes people,” says co-owner Michael Levin. The intoxicating kitchen aromas come free of charge, as does delivery to areas from Goleta to Carpinteria for orders over $20 (smaller orders are delivered for a small fee). Childhood friends Brittany Champagne and Emilie Goldstein grew up in Atascadero, where they recently opened their homage to baked goods, a selfproclaimed “dreamy little pie shop” called Bramble Pie Company (bramblepiecompany.com). Tapping seasonal pickings from local organic farmers for the peaches, blackberries, apples, pumpkins, sweet potatoes,

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

Frinj Coffee founder and CEO Jay Ruskey examines a coffee plant at his Good Land Organics farm in Goleta.

and pecans that make up some of their popular fillings, the co-owners also offer shepherd’s pies, Cornish pasties, and empanadas stuffed with chicken, cheese, and roasted poblano peppers. Chicken potpies are available on Sundays. Michael Martineau, owner of the just-opened SLO Delicious Bake Shop (slo-delicious.com), describes the moment he found the bakery’s downtown site in San Luis Obispo as “love at first sight.” In addition to a wide array of house-made muffins, cookies, cakes, chocolate truffles, pies, and other pastries, Martineau offers a breakfast menu of frittatas, granola parfaits, and egg croissant sandwiches as well as lunchtime fare, including made-to-order sandwiches and chicken and pesto pasta salad. “I do the fun part,” says pastry chef Gonzalo Huerta, whose most popular creations are the almond-marzipan mini pies, the lemon-raspberry muffins, the blueberry–cream cheese scones, and the gluten-free lemonbasil scones with a hint of garlic salt.

—V.W.H.

Monthly deliveries from Santa Barbara’s Get Hooked fishery include the seasonal catch and cooking instructions.

HOOKED ON LOCAL FISH

GROWIN’ JOE

Plenty of sun, gentle mountain slopes, and mild temperatures are ideal growing conditions for Central Coast wine vineyards, but a new crop has emerged in the 805 terroir: coffee. After a decade of research and extensive crop trials at the family-owned Good Land Organics Farm in Goleta, farmer and agronomist Jay Ruskey founded Frinj Coffee (frinjcoffee.com), a support service for central and southern California coffee growers that supplies everything from arabica seedlings and production consultations to post-harvest services and product marketing. “Our coffees are among the best in the world,” says Ruskey. “It’s exciting to introduce a new kind of culinary experience from this region, and it’s important to me that half of the proceeds go back to our farmers.” One of the latest releases is a smallbatch Geisha varietal from Rancho Delfino in Carpinteria, said by Frinj to have “honeycomb, bergamot, and vanilla cola sweetness” and a “silky” mouthfeel,” and the first from Montecito’s Valley Heart Ranch is a Pacas varietal purported to have “a tasty sweetness of white chocolates,” “a buttery mouthfeel,” and “a tight balance of a lemony citrus reminiscent of a riesling.” —V.W.H.

Dishing up local, fresh, sustainable seafood is easier than ever thanks to Get Hooked (gethookedseafood.com), a community-supported fishery owned by Santa Barbara natives Victoria Voss and Kim Selkoe, a marine ecologist. “We have a vibrant fishing community here in Channel Islands Harbor that allows us to keep it local and still offer the variety our members appreciate,” says Voss. The catch includes seasonal options, like white sea bass, black cod, live oysters, halibut, ahi, California spiny lobsters, Dungeness crab, and Santa Barbara spot prawns, and comes with simple, foolproof recipes. Subscribers can easily customize their monthly deliveries according to size and seafood preferences and receive them at home or pick them up at one of 24 locations. Weekly add-ons include options like ready-to-bake Salmon Wellington and taco kits, fresh from the fishery’s new Carpinteria facility. —V.W.H.

FROM TOP: SUMMER STAEB; LAUREN CHOW; DAVID HILLS

A SLO Delicious Bake Shop mini pie oozes with cherry filling.

CONCIERGE SERVICE / PROVEN RESULTS

IN THIS HIGHLY COMPETITIVE MARKET — Choose Experience $ 45M+ TOP 1% Sold 2020 Local Agents

Compass is a licensed real estate broker in the state of California (Montecito DRE 0991628). All material is intended for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal without notice. No statement is made as to the accuracy of any description or measurements (including square footage). This is not intended to solicit property already listed. No financial or legal advice provided. Equal housing opportunity.

Pulse

SBMA REOPENS TRANSFORMED

With a nod to the past and a vision for the future, the Santa Barbara Museum of Art (SBMA; sbma.net) has reopened its State Street entrance and unveiled the results of a sixyear, $50 million renovation of its 1912 building. Inside the gloriously restored arches of Ludington Court, the salonstyle exhibition of large-scale paintings, interspersed with African and pre-Columbian antiquities, hints at the richness and variety of the 25,000 objects in the museum’s collection. There are now galleries for contemporary art and new media, space to show off SBMA’s wealth of photographs, and new installations of Asian art, to say nothing of behind-thescenes structural upgrades that have readied the century-old building for decades to come. Says director and CEO Larry Feinberg, “With rarely or never-before-exhibited works on view and revitalized spaces, we will continue using SBMA’s art and resources to transform and enrich the lives of people in our community and beyond.” —Joan Tapper

The Santa Barbara Museum of Art gleams with a fresh exterior (left), and a rendering depicts its renovated Ludington Court (above).

BOLSTERING HOME DESIGN

Dana Long, founder of home-design textiles website Bennett+Laine, attests to the transformational power of throw pillows.

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coastal California vibe, Long works in collaboration with the company’s head of design and production, fashion and textile designer Colleen Quinn, to create handmade pillows in casual styles ranging from midcentury modern to contemporary farmhouse. Leftover fabric gets turned into scrunchies for organizations that support women and girls in need. A pillow-finder link on the website suggests options for adding the stylish accents to couches and beds, and Long works directly with clients to offer individual advice or design custom products. Other Bennett+Laine offerings include kitchen linens, Moroccan blankets, and Turkish towels. —Erin Rottman BOTTOM LEFT: CHARLOTTE LEA PHOTOGRAPHY

Westlake Village resident Dana Long likes to draw parallels between interior design and fashion. Like couture, she asserts, room decor, can be renewed simply with accessories. “When the seasons change, you can update your look with something easy,” she says, “like pillows.” Founder of Bennett+Laine (bennettlaine.com), a website offering textile products with a

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Pulse

A MAN WITH A PAN

When a blacksmith makes a pan by hand, taking great care with each strike of the hammer to create the perfect angle, height, and feel in the hand, the result can be more art than cooking tool. But it’s art that begs to be used. Hand-forged at Dennis Kehoe’s home studio in Los Osos, the Kehoe Carbon Cookware (kehoecarboncookware.com) line

encompasses carbon-steel skillets, woks, crepe pans, and paella pans that have better nonstick performance than cast iron and are about 25 percent lighter, according to Kehoe. “I’ve always wanted to be able to support myself and my family with my own hands,” says Kehoe, who fashions two types of handles for his cooking vessels and seasons them with coconut oil. “I’m making a product that I believe in. People are using them, and they’re going to use them for generations to feed their families, which is amazing.”

—E.R.

Kehoe Carbon Cookware carbon-steel skillets are hand-forged in Los Osos.

VINTAGE FINDS IN THE FUNK ZONE

Mid-century modern style comes to Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone with the recent opening of SB Mid Mod (sbmidmod.com), an eclectic collection of vintage home furnishings and artful objects. Owner Tracey Strobel has been restoring and selling mid-century pieces for almost 20 years and is enjoying the connection with fellow aficionados of the timeless modern designs in her first retail store. “Overall, the reception for the shop has been incredible,” she says. “I couldn’t have asked for nicer neighbors, and the energy in The Funk Zone is awesome. I feel incredibly grateful for this space and the people I’m meeting and getting to work with.”

FOLLOW THE HERD

A colorful collection of artistically painted horses is making its way around Santa Ynez (santaynezchamber.org), thanks to a collaboration between the community’s chamber of commerce and a team of local artists. Each of the nearly life-size plywood cutouts has its own personality and aesthetic. One, titled, Beautiful Santa Ynez Valley, bears a landscape designed by Maryvonne LaParlière. Another, by Laurie Owens, takes cues from 1960s pop art flowers. A third, painted by 12-year-old artist Faith Ortega, is adorned with Chumash-inspired symbols. “I was happily surprised at how unique each one is,” says Linda Small, executive director of the Santa Ynez Chamber of Commerce, who came up with the idea and plans to keep the horses on display through the fall. “We just wanted something joyful to inspire people to smile as they drive or walk around town.” —L.D.

Horses of a different color in Santa Ynez (from left): Beautiful Santa Ynez Valley, by Maryvonne LaParlière and Flower Power by Laurie Owens.

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FROM TOP: DENNIS KEHOE; COURTESY OF MID MOD; COURTESY OF SANTA YNEZ CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

—Leslie Dinaberg

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BOWLFULS ON THE WAY Health-conscious eating meets socially conscious business at Balfour’s Kitchen (balfourskitchen.com), a new plantbased-meal delivery service launching in Santa Barbara and Ventura counties later this year. Taking its name from organic food pioneer Lady Eve Balfour (1898–1990), the new venture will offer a selection of meals in a bowl—such as Cauliflower Shakshuka, Green Pea & Asparagus Soup, and French Ratatouille With Quinoa—which will arrive ready to heat and eat. They’re designed to be mixed and matched to provide what founder Danny Burgner says aims to be,

Design • Construct • Manage

CANEEL BURGNER

Balfour’s Kitchen owner Danny Burgner stands behind the company’s packaged plant-based dishes, ready for delivery.

“the perfect balance of PFF—protein, fat, and fiber—and of course carbs.” The company kicked off the testmarketing phase of its charitable model late in 2020 and early this year by donating more than 1,000 meals to Sarah House, a Santa Barbara nonprofit that provides residential housing for lowincome individuals receiving hospice care, and the Santa Barbara Rescue Mission, which provides meals, shelter, and recovery programs to homeless and addicted individuals. And when Balfour’s Kitchen opens its doors: “For every bowl purchased,” says Burgner, “we’ll give one to a person in need or make the equivalent donation to a food-centered nonprofit.”  —L.D.

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Finds S H O P P I N G / S T Y L E / T R AV EL

Into the Woodwork

NATURE’S STRONGEST PLANT MATERIAL LENDS DURABLE BEAUTY TO CULINARY TOOLS. By Jennie Nunn From the Oliva Elite collection (left to right): 7-inch “Kullenschliff” Santoku ($200), “Stealth” 8-inch chef’s knife ($190), 10-inch fine steel ($170), 8-inch “Kullenschliff” carving knife ($190), 3.5-inch spearpoint paring knife ($90), 6-inch straight carving fork ($150); Messermeister, Rains of Ojai, rainsofojai.com. SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

Finds

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1. Be Home teak mortar and pestle ($48); Beautiful Mess Home & Garden, Agoura Hills, abeautifulmesshome.com. 2. EtúHome “Bianca” crumb board ($285); Beautiful Mess Home & Garden, Agoura Hills, abeautifulmesshome.com. 3. Menu nut hammer ($30); The Copenhagen House, Solvang, thecopenhagenhouse.com. 4. “Kawashima” 8-inch chef’s knife ($250); Messermeister, Rains of Ojai, rainsofojai.com. 5. “Tomas” glass bowl with wooden lid ($30); Crate and Barrel at The Village at Topanga in Woodland Hills, crateandbarrel.com. 6. Iris Hantverk baker brush ($22); Heritage Goods & Supply, Carpinteria and Solvang; heritagegoodsandsupply.com. 7. Magnus Design spice mill (small, $142; large, $148); Hacienda by Bonita Lifestyle, Summerland, bonitalifestyle.com. 8. Wood tongs in American walnut ($30); Williams Sonoma: Thousand Oaks, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and at Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; williams-sonoma.com. 9. Natural wood nesting measuring cup set ($20); Cost Plus World Market: Westlake Village, Oxnard, Santa Barbara, and San Luis Obispo; worldmarket.com. 

For more, visit our Pinterest page, keyword: 805living.

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

Finds Style By Frances Ryan

2 1 3

Go Dutch CLOGS AREN’T JUST FOR CHEFS ANYMORE. SLIP ON A FRESH TAKE ON THE CLASSIC.

6 5

1. Veronica Beard “Dacey” studded denim with buckle ($395); Neiman Marcus at Westfield Topanga, Canoga Park, neimanmarcus.com. 2. “Calabasas” in leather with rivets ($148); Free People: Santa Barbara, Canoga Park, and Malibu; freepeople.com. 3. “Silent D Georgia” leather slingback ($140); Anthropologie: Thousand Oaks, Santa Barbara, and at Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; anthropologie.com. 4. “Zoe” platform in natural leather ($294); bryrstudio.com. 5. No. 6 Store “Bourbon Old School” in leather ($290); Whistle Club, Santa Barbara, whistleclub.com. 6. “Heeled” with studs ($60); Zara, Thousand Oaks and Canoga Park; zara.com. 7. Dansko “Berry” in black burnished nubuck ($135); Solvang Shoe Store, solvangshoe.com. 8. Tory Burch “Jessa Patchwork” suede with horse bit ($368); Neiman Marcus at Westfield Topanga, Canoga Park, neimanmarcus.com. 

For more, visit our Pinterest page, keyword: 805living.

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

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Dr. Farrell’s work focuses on an artistic, natural, and clinically safe approach to enhance her patients in a powerful, yet undetectable way. She is passionate about continued learning and stays up to date with the latest advancements and

technology in aesthetic medicine and loves to spend time educating her patients about which treatment is best suited or which ones to avoid for their particular concerns. Dr. Farrell takes building trust with her patients very seriously. She harvests a professional, welcoming, positive energy that lets people know they are getting the highest quality of care the moment they walk through the door. Dr. Farrell has advanced her practice of medicine to include a more holistic, “less is more” approach to patient care. She believes that every cell in the body is responding to our thoughts and emotions, which have a biological impact on how we feel and look. Certified in Traditional Eastern Medicine/ Acupuncture, Dr. Farrell offers Auriculotherapy, an acupuncture treatment that helps restore mental and physical harmony. Natural Aesthetics Center combines injections such as Botox and fillers (administered by Dr. Farrell) and the latest devices (RadioFrequency Microneedling, Exilis Ultra, Ultherapy) for nonsurgical, minimally invasive face-

lifts and skin tightening. Dr. Farrell also offers body contouring/strengthening, cellulite treatment, and pelvic floor health using cutting-edge technology with the EmSculpt Neo, EmTone, and the EmSella chair. Her goal is to deliver lasting results and have you looking and feeling more balanced and refreshed. For more information, visit www.nacmd.com

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Finds Travel By Erin Rottman

PEBBLE BEACH FOR ALL

Ocean panoramas front The Hay, Pebble Beach Golf Links’ recently redesigned, more approachable, nine-hole par-3 course.

TASTE OF TEL AVIV IN BEVERLY HILLS

The Beverly Hilton hotel offers Dine & Unwind (beverlyhilton.com, from $709), a new package in conjunction with its popular rooftop pop-up restaurant Sant’olina in Beverly Hills. The deal runs through December and includes a studio suite along with a $200 credit at Sant’olina, which specializes in vegetableforward Israeli and Mediterranean cuisine for brunch and dinner. Standouts include the falafel, served with tahina (a tahini-based sauce) and Israeli salad, and the chicken schnitzel, which comes as a sandwich at brunch and as an entrée in the evening. A 360-degree-view of Los Angeles enhances the dining experience. “It’s such an iconic rooftop,” says Brian Toll, cofounder of The h.wood Group, which conceived Sant’olina. “Combining that with our decor, music, and vibe really makes it a special place.”

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Lit by sunrays or city lights, views at The Beverly Hilton are dramatic, whether seen from a private suite (above, left) or the rooftop Sant’olina restaurant (above, right) while eating Mediterranean fare (left) like za’atarspiced chicken and grilled eggplant with onion and cherry tomatoes.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: MARTIN MILLER; COURTESY OF THE BEVERLY HILTON; WONHO FRANK LEE/WONHO PHOTO; KATHRYN BALLAY

he second hole of The Hay ($65/adult, free for 12 and under, pebblebeach.com/golf/ the-hay), Pebble Beach’s new short course, mirrors the design of the seventh hole at the resort’s main golf course, making one of golf’s most iconic holes accessible to more people. Tiger Woods, who won both the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am and the U.S. Open at Pebble Beach in 2000, designed the nine-hole short course, which takes about an hour to complete and features four holes that play directly toward the ocean. “The beauty of his design is that it is playable for the beginner golfer, but it is interesting and challenging enough for the avid golfer to find it enjoyable,” says Pebble Beach vice president and golf director John Sawin, adding that beginners can roll the ball from the tee onto the green on eight of the nine holes. The Hay also includes a new indooroutdoor restaurant, slated to open this month, and the resort’s first-ever 20,000-square-foot putting course. “Anybody can come out and enjoy [the putting course] for no cost,” Sawin says. “I don’t think this will ever get old for me, seeing the eclectic group of people out there having a total blast.”

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Finds Travel

Stay in casual mid-century-modern style at San Diego’s new Monsaraz hotel and take in a performance at The Rady Shell at Jacobs Park surrounded by water and wide-open skies.

HOW SAN DIEGO DOES SYMPHONY

OLD PALM SPRINGS, NEW AGAIN

B Natural wood, fiber, and leather accent the hacienda-style architecture in the living room of the Adobe House, the most historic building at Casa Cody bed and breakfast in Palm Springs.

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uilt in 1916 by famed opera singer Lawrence Tibbett, the Adobe House is the oldest building at Casa Cody (casacody. com, from $192), Palm Springs’ most historic hotel, which has just been restored. The stage Tibbett built in the living room, where he hosted parties and performed, along with the building’s residential feel and patios, make the two-bedroom Adobe House a great place for entertaining today, too. “That’s one of the gems of the property and one of the most coveted of the guest rooms,” says Carolyn Schneider, president and partner of Casetta Group, the hotel’s management company. Walking distance from downtown, Casa Cody sits on 1.5 acres, where its 30 rooms are nestled among grapefruit, orange, lemon, and lime trees and bright swathes of bougainvillea. Guests can go for a dip in either of two pools that look toward the San Jacinto Mountains. Inside, the updated rooms are decorated with Spanish-inspired tones of deep blue and green, earth-toned leathers, and sunset corals. Some have full kitchens. While the vibe is romantic and tranquil, Casa Cody welcomes children, who may have fun checking out the edible garden and picking citrus fruit to eat. ·

Please check CDC and local guidelines before traveling.

FROM TOP: ROBERT MILLER; COURTESY OF SAN DIEGO SYMPHONY; JOSH CHO PHOTOGRAPHY

More than 3,000 round LED puck lights illuminate the canopy covering the stage after sundown, but the best feature of the San Diego Symphony’s new outdoor setting option may be what surrounds it: water. The first permanent waterfront venue on the West Coast, The Rady Shell at Jacobs Park (theshell.org) opened last month with a lineup that includes a September 26 performance by singer-songwriter Jason Mraz of songs arranged specifically for the symphony orchestra as well as other shows through November featuring music from movies, Broadway musicals, and classical composers. A 15-minute drive away in Point Loma, the new Monsaraz (hilton.com/en/hotels/sanplup-the-monsaraz-san-diego, from $180), offers rooms with casual, mid-century modern styling and views of San Diego Bay and the downtown skyline. Saturday morning fitness classes, like “Champagne & Chaturanga,” and weekday trivia nights take place at the hotel’s 4,000-square-foot open-air courtyard, which has become a locals’ hangout. To attend the symphony, guests can opt to pedal along the Embarcadero straight to The Rady Shell on one of the hotel’s electric bikes.

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Insider EVENTS IN & AROUND THE 805 By Heidi Dvorak

SUMMER’S BOUNTY

9/17–18

10 West Gallery, Santa Barbara. Check out what artists Penny Arntz, Pamela Grau, Sheldon Kaganoff, Pamela Larsson-Toscher, Laurie MacMillan, Patrick McGinnis, Mary Neville, Tom Peck, Scott A. Trimble, Dahlia Riley, and Iben G. Vestergaard did over the summer at the artist-owned cooperative; 10westgallery.com. September 11–12 VENTURA ART & STREET PAINTING FESTIVAL

9/23

Ventura Harbor Village. Paintings, pottery, photography, and jewelry line the boardwalk at this show featuring work created by Ventura County artists. Sidewalks serve as canvas for chalk artists, and kids can demonstrate their skills in the Children’s Chalk Area. The event supports local charities; venturaartfestival.com. September 16–19 OJAI MUSIC FESTIVAL

Libbey Bowl and various locations. Music director John Adams helms this year’s composer-focused classical music program, which features performances by new and seasoned musicians and vocalists, lectures, virtual talks, and activities for children; ojaifestival.org. September 17–18 SOLVANG DANISH DAYS

Downtown Solvang. California’s premier Danish heritage festival returns for its 85th anniversary, with

10/1 58

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two days of axe throwing, Viking adventures, parades, family entertainment, live music, and beer, wine, and foodie experiences; solvangdanishdays.org.

scenery, wildlife, ranch life, and history of the American West. Guest artist sculptor Christopher Slatoff serves as jurist; the-slopoke.com. September 26

September 23 THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS

Eden Gardens, Moorpark. The dress code is implied, so join in on Soroptimist International of Simi Valley’s fundraiser to support women and girls in the community. Take part in silent and live auctions and opportunity drawings and enjoy dinner with the hospitality of Men in Motion, a grand group of guys who serve the ladies; soroptimistsv.org. September 24–25 CALIFORNIA WINE FESTIVAL

Chase Palm Park, Santa Barbara. Sample libations from hundreds of local breweries and wineries, artisanal products, like cheeses, breads, olive oils, and chocolates, and entries from chefs competing for best barbecue, all to the beat of live music; californiawinefestival.com. September 24–26 SLOPOKE ART OF THE WEST

CASA PACIFICA WINE, FOOD & BREW FESTIVAL

Cal State University Channel Islands. Meet local chefs and taste sweet and savory dishes from their restaurants, catering companies, bakeries, and specialty shops while sipping on high-end wines and craft brews; cpwinefoodbrewfest.com. October 10 MONTECITO MOTOR CLASSIC

Santa Barbara Polo and Racquet Club. Honk if you love rare and unique automobiles. This outdoor festival showcases a variety of spectacular makes and models and serves as a fundraiser for 911 At Ease International, an organization that supports first responders, and the Santa Barbara Police Activities League, which strives to build good relationships between cops and the community. 805 Living is a media sponsor; montecitomotorclassic.com.

Flag Is Up Farms, Solvang. Paintings, pottery, photography, and jewelry in this exhibition are inspired by the

Here’s an Idea: For high-definition chamber music, lend an ear to CAMERATA PACIFICA’s first concerts of the season from October 5through October 10 at various locations. The program includes Smetana’s Piano Trio in G minor, Corigliano’s The Red Violin Caprices, and Franck’s Violin Sonata in A Major 10; cameratapacifica.org.

9/17: THERESA GINGRAS PHOTOGRAPHY; 10/1: PHOTO BY WILLIAM BOUT ON UNSPLASH

Through September 19

New events added all year long!

SEASON CALENDAR

2021 – 2022

bapacthousandoaks.com AUG 21 The Everly Set • SEP 22 Chris Isaak / 23 Boz Scaggs / 24 & 25 Chris Hillman featuring Herb Pedersen & John Jorgenson / 30 L.O.L. Surprise! Live • OCT 1 Get the Led Out / 7 Frankie Valli / 15 Spyro Gyra / 17 Karla Bonoff / 24 Vir Das • NOV 5 Paula Poundstone / 7 David Fehe y Off Tour / 10 George Thorogood and the Destroyers / 13 Five for Fighting with String Qua et / 19 Postmodern Jukebox • DEC 8 Mary Chapin Carpenter, Marc Cohn and Shawn Colvin Together in Conce / 28 A Magical Cirque Christmas / 30 Straight No Chaser • JAN 19 An Intimate Evening with David Foster / 21 & 22 FRIENDS! The Musical Parody / 28 Nat Geo LIVE!: Keith Ladzinski • FEB 11 Rockapella / 18 Rosanne Cash / 19 Disney Princess—The Conce / 19 Tom Papa / 25 Nat Geo LIVE!: Rae Wynn-Grant • MAR 11 Nat Geo LIVE!: Damien Mander / 12 Live from Laurel Canyon / 27 Piff the Magic Dragon • APR 10 Big Band of Brothers: A Jazz Celebration of the Allman Brothers Band / 15 Nat Geo LIVE!: Annie Griffiths / 22 #IMOMSOHARD • MAY 1 KANSAS / 6 Kathleen Madigan ONLINE

IN PERSON

TICKETS ticketmaster.com Thu – Sat, 10 – 2

INFO 805-449-ARTS

Faces in the Crowd By Anthony Head Photograph by Gary Moss

James Rogers

THE FOUNDER OF APEEL SCIENCES IS ELIMINATING FOOD WASTE ONE AVOCADO AT A TIME.

entral California grows the food that feeds the world. Unfortunately, food waste continues to be a multibilliondollar problem, not to mention a human tragedy. When James Rogers was working on his PhD in materials at UC Santa Barbara, he

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

caught a podcast about global hunger. “It seemed like a solvable problem,” Rogers recalls thinking while absorbing the information. “If there was not enough food and there were too many people, that would be a difficult problem,” he says. “But it’s the other way: There is enough food, and people are still going hungry.”

When Rogers turned his attention to finding solutions, his ideas were captivating enough to garner a grant from the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. In 2012, Rogers founded Apeel Sciences (apeel.com) in Goleta, and today, as CEO, he’s focused on eliminating food waste. Apeel produces a patented blend of plant-based components that is applied to premarket fruits and vegetables as a barrier against oxygen and also retains moisture. The tasteless, odorless, edible coating keeps produce (more than two dozen varieties of fruits and vegetables so far) from spoiling for longer periods of time, rather than rotting and being tossed—and ultimately wasted—after a few days. “Every living thing employs some protective barrier to insulate it from the ambient environment,” says Rogers, who’s made Santa Barbara home for 14 years. His company isolated the molecular components at the heart of this plantkingdom protective system and found a way to amplify their effects. “We’re using nature to help nature,” he says. In an early success, Apeel doubled the shelf life of avocados. Now, it’s a global company with more than 400 employees; more than 50 percent of them in the 805. Apeel’s next steps include incorporating the wide use of imaging devices that use light to detect at what stage of ripening a fruit or vegetable is before it gets shipped. Such information, Rogers believes, helps businesses make smarter delivery decisions, save resources, and ultimately waste less food. The green economy is all about directly addressing global issues through industry and innovation. Apeel’s achievements are designed to improve our food distribution system; others are doing their parts to address different matters. If they all have Rogers’ positive, progressive resolve, we just might solve some of these problems. As he says, “A lot of this stuff just feels obvious.”  Apeel Science does not sell directly to consumers. Look for Apeel stickers on produce where you shop, or visit the website to find locations where Apeel-coated produce is sold.

Good Deeds GANNA WALSK A LOTUSL AND PE TAL TO THE ME TAL FÊ TE

1 - Caroline Thompson, David Jones 2 - Janice Feldman (seated), Mitchell Grossman, Caroline Thompson 3 - Belle Hahn, Steve Thompson 4 - Joseph Marek, Rebecca Anderson, Ron Caird 5 - Gail Wasserman, Maureen McDermott 6 - Hania Tallmadge, Nati Smith 7 - Heather and Jim Rosenfields 8 - John Bernatz, Joseph Marek, Patty and Michael Rosenfeld 9 - Chris Wyrick, Yasmine Zodeh 10 - Paul Hageman, Maria and Robert Giaimo 11 - Mandana Mir

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10: MONIE PHOTOGRAPHY; 3, 4, 8: NELL CAMPBELL; 11: KIM REIERSON

Ganna Walska Lotusland (lotusland.org) botanical garden in Montecito and sponsor The Armand Hammer Foundation in Carpinteria presented this year’s Lotusland Celebrates event, an exhibition of classic Italian automobiles, murals by Los Angeles artist Chris Wyrick, and sculptures by Goleta creative aluminum designs company Neal Feay, at the garden on July 24. Proceeds from the event benefit the garden’s operations and youth-education and conservation programs.

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© 2021 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices California Properties (BHHSCP) is a member of the franchise systemof BHH Affiliates LLC. BHHS and the BHHS symbol are registered service marks of Columbia Insurance Company,a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate. BHH Affiliates LLC and BHHSCP do not guarantee accuracy of all data including measurements, conditions, and features of property. Information is obtained from various sources and will not be verified by broker or MLS. Buyer is advised to independently verify the accuracy of that information.

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*Over 100 years of combined experience

WINEMAKER WISDOM STEVE BECKMEN Beckmen Vineyards Los Olivos beckmenvineyards.com What inspires you as a winemaker? The next vintage, applying the lessons of past vintages, and using that knowledge to try and make better wine. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? The 2019 reds are fantastic and we will be releasing them over the next several months. We also have some new varieties from 2020 that we are excited to release—Malbec, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and a Petit Syrah—in addition to our usual plethora of wines we release every year.

BRUGHELLI, CASEY CURREY; FOLDED HILLS VINEYARDS, ERIN FEINBLATT

What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? Hopefully biodynamic farming will continue to grow and be embraced by fellow vintners. We’ve practiced it over the last 18+ years and I think it’s time more neighbors embrace this way of farming. We also started making a small amount of natural, orange wine under our 1NGREDIENT label, available only at our tasting room or on our website. We are extremely excited about those wines and see it as a trend moving forward.

BLAIR FOX Blair Fox Cellars Los Olivos blairfoxcellars.com What inspires you as a winemaker? As a winemaker, I am inspired by the dynamic growing conditions and unique microclimates in Santa Barbara County. From a grape varietal perspective, Syrah inspires me because it can thrive across the warmer areas like the Los Olivos District to the coolest in the Sta. Rita Hills.

MICHAEL BRUGHELLI Folded Hills Winery San Ynez Valley & Santa Barbara foldedhills.com What inspires you as a winemaker? The benchmarks of the wine world from Burgundy to the Rhône Valley are what inspire me to make the highest level wines I possibly can. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? I am extremely proud of our latest wine release, the 2020 Lilly Rosé, and a wine I’m very excited to release is the 2020 Estate Syrah. It’s an intriguing wine, showing incredible nuance while having great structure and balance.

What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? The 2018 vintage is my favorite since the 2007 vintage! This was a moderate vintage, which possesses all of the characteristics for great wines. I am very excited about these wines! What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? I am trying to show a sense of place with my wines, “terroir.” I showcase Syrah from my estate in the Los Olivos District, Ballard Canyon, Alisos Canyon, and the Sta. Rita Hills. All of the wines are made in small lots. The grapes are sorted, punched down, and basket-pressed by hand to show the true essence of the vineyard. I am also producing a limited-release sparkling-wine program, made in the traditional Méthode Champenoise style.

What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? We make whole-cluster Carbonic Fermentation wines at Folded Hills which does not seem to fall into the “wine trends” category (and will continue to do so), but I can’t speak to any trends we will be following per se. We are going to continue to make the best wine we possibly can from what I believe to be a truly remarkable site.

From top: Beckmen Vineyards’ 1NGREDIENT 2019 Viognier crafted from 100-percent certified biodynamic grapes. Blair Fox Cellars tasting room in heart of quaint and charming Los Olivos. Ocean breezes waft over the organically farmed vineyards at Folded Hills Winery Homestead in Gaviota.

WINEMAKER WISDOM JOE HURLIMAN Herzog Wine Cellars Oxnard herzogwine.com What inspires you as a winemaker? I am inspired by the location, growing and harvesting of our grapes—then allowing the grapes to perfectly represent themselves. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? We’re just releasing our Estate Grown Malbec from our Clarksburg appellation vineyard…I couldn’t be happier the way fruit shows through. The winery is also releasing a Méthode Traditional Brut Chardonnay. Clean, crisp, and wonderful bubbles! What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? We are very excited about our brand new Premiere Wine Club. Members get club-only bottlings not available anywhere else; in fact our last shipment had a single-barrel Cabernet Sauvignon from Stags Leap! It is very special for us to share these very boutique creations from our cellar with wine lovers across the 805. From top: Herzog Wine Cellars Chalk Hill Special Edition Chardonnay displays notes of lemon custard and honeyed apple blossoms, with a touch of warm vanilla butter cookies. The Austin Hope & Treana Tasting Cellar in Paso Robles offers seated tastings with a casual, fun approach to award winning, world-class wines. A rainbow of wines can be enjoyed at Kaena Wine Company in downtown Los Olivos.

What inspires you as a winemaker? I am inspired daily by nature and all that it gives to so many in so many ways. It is an amazing thing to be able to plant a vine, grow it to maturity, harvest the grapes and turn the grapes into wine that brings joy to people.

What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? Honestly, I am always excited for new releases because we never release a wine unless we all believe it to be of exceptional quality. One thing that does excite me about new releases is it’s one more vintage that goes into our library and I really enjoy watching how each vintage ages. What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? We don’t really follow trends but we do believe in making an honest product for all to enjoy. We set our sights to create the standard for Paso Robles Luxury Cabernet Sauvignon at every price point.

What inspires you as a winemaker? My inspiration comes from my roots growing up in Hawaii, watching my Tutu cook in the kitchen, combining all the amazing layers of flavors and aromas of local cuisine. This along with my love of old-world wines and blues music has allowed me to create wines with amazing depth and character that pair with unique flavors of Hawaiian cuisine. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? The 2019 vintage is phenomenal and I’m very excited to share my new lineup of Grenache. They are so bright and expressive, the best of the decade. There will be four vineyard designates including Tierra Alta, Larner, La Presa, and Thompson Vineyards What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? I’m really looking forward to celebrating Kaena’s 20th anniversary with my new team. I’ve also launched a new Kaena Noir label dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. These wines will be exclusively showcased at our new Kaena Ranch location on Highway 246.

HERZOG BOTTLE: DAVID WHITTEMORE

AUSTIN HOPE Hope Family Wines Paso Robles hopefamilywines.com

MIKAEL SIGOUIN Kaena Wine Company Solvang kaenawine.com

WINEMAKER WISDOM NEETA & KUNAL MITTAL LXV Wine Paso Robles lxvwine.com What inspires you as a winemaker? The vulnerability of a vintage. Vintages capture the essence of the year gone by. As a small-lot production winery we can showcase the vintage in all its glory with our singlevineyard “Meso” series, and accentuate the varying facets of the vintage in our blends. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? The “Meso” series of wines where we capture the best vintage from the best site. The series will feature a particular vineyard once every few years in the most desirable vintage. The Fall 2021 release will be 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon from Gateway Vineyard. 2019 was a long and equitable growing season highlighted in the terroir, and fruit, of the Bordeauxesque Gateway vineyard in Willow Creek AVA.

SCHREINER, ACACIA PRODUCTIONS

What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? Virtual tastings that are as intimate and experiential as in a tasting room. We immerse someone in, say New York, in the experience of the Paso Robles terroir, LXV wines, and the flavor pairings, by making the “tasting box” tactile and sensory.

JAMES SCHREINER Opolo Vineyards Paso Robles opolo.com What inspires you as a winemaker? I’m always inspired by the whole process, from sustainable vineyard management practices to the cellar and all the way to the bottle. Our team commits themselves to creating a wide range of quality wines that support Opolo’s mission to provide a fun and all-inclusive tasting experience.

What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? We are set to release Opolo’s first white blend, Willow Blanc. This wine is a unique blend of skin-contact Viognier and Roussanne. We aged our Willow Blanc for 16 months in a combination of new Acacia, new French, and stainless barrels. The result is a very complex and flavorful white wine that we hope everyone will enjoy. What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? We’ve had great success bringing our tasting room to homes via virtual tasting. While we always encourage people to experience our property in person, virtual tastings have provided a way to connect with people across the world to give them that Opolo hospitality wherever they live.

SASHI MOORMAN Piedrasassi Wine & Bread Lompoc piedrasassi.com What inspires you as a winemaker? Bringing greater awareness to the extraordinary wines that come from California and Oregon, specifically the Sta. Rita Hills and EolaAmity Hills. Being part of a global community of wine lovers is often where I find the greatest satisfaction. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? We will have the 2019 release of Piedrasassi wines this fall which is a truly special vintage. On top of that, some amazing releases from our other wineries (Sandhi, Evening Land Vineyards, and Domaine de la Côte) and also some website redesigns and upgrades that are really going to change the way that people interact with all of our brands collectively. What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? The consumer has more influence now than ever before. I think our customers will begin to look beyond just organic practices, and ask for our industry’s participation in reversing global warming. The impact of climate change has had a profound effect on the wine industry—you can literally taste how climate change has changed our definition of cool climatic regions across the globe.

From top: In the heart of Paso’s Willow Creek flourishes the Armaa.N vineyard, with ten thousand vines seeking the sun. Opolo creates unique single varietals as well as awardwinning blends from fruit grown on the estate vineyards. Winemaker Sashi Moorman of Piedrasassi Wine & Bread strives to coax from each harvest its individual expression of place.

WINEMAKER WISDOM MAX MARSHAK Roblar Winery & Refugio Ranch Vineyards Santa Ynez roblarwinery.com refugioranch.com What inspires you as a winemaker? I draw my inspiration from the land I work with. The heart and soul of good wines can only be drawn from places that are well cared for and loved by the people who work and live on the land. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? I want to show the quality of what these vineyards are capable of. It’s exciting to look at an established vineyard and brand and see room for improvement and experimentation. My team made very different decisions than previous winemakers, but the changes in wine expression are subtle. This is my first chance to run the winemaking show, and I’m excited by how strong the voices of these vineyards are. Working with singular vineyards that can’t be pushed around, that’s the ultimate experience.

From top: Roblar Winery & Refugio Ranch Vineyards’ winemaker Max Marshak surveys the vines with assistant winemaker Kat Gaffney. Tastings at Star Lane and Dierberg showcase the incredible diversity of the three estate vineyards located in Santa Barbara County. Zaca Mesa’s new TREAD Wines brand features handcrafted site-driven wines that reveal a true sense of place.

What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? The guiding trend for us is the pursuit of absolute quality and pleasure. I can’t say there’s a trend beyond that that I want to be affiliated with.

TYLER THOMAS Star Lane and Dierberg Vineyard Santa Ynez dierbergvineyard.com What inspires you as a winemaker? I am still inspired and fascinated by the transcendental nature of wine. It is one of the few, if only, beverages crafted which, due to the fermentation process, evokes flavors that transcend beyond “grape” and evoke flavors from the entire range of culinary experience.

KRISTIN BRYDEN Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards Los Olivos zacamesa.com What inspires you as a winemaker? No great wine is possible without a great team—growing grapes and making wine takes hard work, commitment, and collaboration. In the cellar and in the vineyard every person is committed to chasing perfection. The combined passion and dedication of each member inspires me to work hard and translate that relentless effort into each bottle. What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? This year we released TREAD Wines, our brand focusing on the diversity of Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We will release our TREAD La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir this October, a gorgeous wine we can’t wait to share!

What are you most excited about with respect to your upcoming releases? We have several exciting releases but two wines stand out: Star Lane White Blend which is a barrel selection by the winemaking team of particularly exciting, small lot—at times experimental—white wines from Star Lane. The second wine is our first-ever varietally labeled Malbec. It’s fun and serious at the same time. What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? As a producer with a multi-generational plan, there isn’t one trend that we can be certain will shape our brand. We watch, we experiment, but we don’t quickly move away from our core identity: crafting unique wines that are the way they are because of the place they grow.

What’s a trend that you think will shape the future of your brand? Loyalty programs have just started popping up in the wine industry and we are excited to soon offer one to our wine club members. Our members are our family, and we look forward to showing our appreciation for them with a program where they can redeem points for amazing experiences like private tours and tastings.

TAKE A SEAT. ENJOY THE WINE.

ENGAGE THE SENSES.

JUST STEPS AWAY FROM THE OCEAN visit our downtown Santa Barbara tasting room to experience wines produced from the finest vineyards on the Central Coast. Enjoy wine flights, chocolate and wine pairings, and light fare on our expansive outdoor patio. Reservations recommended. Visit jwilkes.com. 805-318-6680 | jwilkes.com | 35 State St., Suite B | Santa Barbara

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8. Rohl “Tenerife” pull-down kitchen faucet with U-spout in antique gold ($1,276); WDC Kitchen & Bath Center: Agoura Hills, Moorpark, Oxnard, and Santa Barbara; wdcappliances.com. 9. “Spheres” table in ebony cerused oak with brass ball details by Ashley Childers for Global Views (price upon request); The Sofa Guy, Thousand Oaks, thesofaguy.com. 10. La Cornue “Flamberge” wallmounted gas rotisserie (price upon request); WDC Kitchen & Bath Center: Agoura Hills, Moorpark, Oxnard, and Santa Barbara; wdcappliances.com. 

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

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GRIMM’S Bluff

Grimm’s Bluff is a Certified Biodynamic Farm in the Happy Canyon AVA specializing in Bordeaux varieties planted to virgin soils using ancient methods without the use of chemicals. Our wines are honest, distinct, and classic.

VISIT US IN THE HEART OF LOS OLIVOS!

2445 Alamo Pintado Ave. #102

Reservations are recommended. Sunday–Thursday 12–5pm | Friday–Saturday 12–6pm

Los Olivos CA 93441 805.691.9065 | grimmsbluff.com

The Flavor of the Central Coast Elizabeth Poett meshes ranch traditions and contemporary flair.

BY JOAN TAPPER PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MOSS

Rancher Elizabeth Poett enjoys a quiet moment at Rancho San Julian, her childhood home near Lompoc, where she now raises her children, runs a business selling her family’s grass-fed beef, organizes dinners and events on the property, and stars in a television series about her passion for growing, cooking, and sharing food.

sk Elizabeth Poett what her normal day is like, and she just laughs. “Every day is different,” she says. “It’s one reason I love ranching. You have to be flexible!” Flexible is an understatement. Not only does she tend cattle with her husband, Austin Campbell, on 14,000-acre Rancho San Julian, near Lompoc—which has been in her family for eight generations—she’s also an entrepreneur of a beef business, an organizer of ranch-to-table dinners and events, the subject of a new TV show, and mom to 10-year-old Jack and 7-year-old Hank. How does she do it all? Well, she had the example of her parents, “who did a lot and loved the things they did,” Poett says. Her father, Jim Poett, was one of the first certified organic beef providers in California; he’s now the ranch CEO. Her mother, Marianne Partridge, is cofounder and editor in chief of the Santa Barbara Independent. Elizabeth was born and raised here, soaking up a love for the area’s heritage (including the flamenco she studied and danced at Fiesta time) and for the history embedded in the property itself. “The heart of the ranch is The Casa,” she says of the first house that was built on the property in the early 1800s and was added onto over time. “It was a stop on the old stagecoach road.” Today it’s the headquarters of the operation and home to a century-old grape and wisteria arbor that provides shade for branding barbecues as well as dinners for four to 400. Elizabeth went east for college and stayed in New York for a while, but the ranch exerted its pull. In 2006, she came back to work with the cattle full time. Two years later she started Rancho San Julian Beef, selling the meat at farmers’ markets, where customers’ curiosity about the animals and ranch life eventually prompted her to start hosting ranch-totable events about five years ago. “People could come to the ranch, learn, and have a beautiful meal,” she says. But the inspiration actually goes back further than that—to her wedding to Campbell, a local rancher whom she met at a

branding. With their large network of family and friends, the guest list for the nuptials numbered 450. How to accommodate everyone? “I said, ‘Let’s grow the food,’” Elizabeth remembers. “We planted the corn, grew the tomatoes, and saved all the tri tip.” Friends accumulated enough vintage china at secondhand shops to serve everyone, and the idea of festive dinners that show off the bounty and bonhomie of the ranch lifestyle was born. Recent events have been considerably smaller, ranging from a barbecue, where she talked about cuts of meat, to a strawberry jam event, and a fundraiser for the county food bank. Now there’s also Ranch to Table, a six-episode television show that began airing in August on the Magnolia Network, part of Discovery+. The segments feature Elizabeth working with her husband and the animals and also in her kitchen—she lives in a house that was moved to the property by her greatgrandmother during the influenza pandemic of 1918—using her own meat and fresh local produce for appealing, accessible meals. “Farmers and ranchers work hard,” Elizabeth says, “and a lot of ranch life is not so pretty. People forget that it’s real. I want people to see what it’s like. I’m not a professional chef,” she adds. “I’m a rancher who loves to cook. I love food and where it comes from.” That approach is obvious even in the barbecue meal she serves Campbell and their kids for an easygoing Sunday dinner at the site of The Ranch Table events. Simple—but perfectly grilled—rib-eye steaks anchor the menu, which she rounds out with a side dish of potatoes grown on the ranch and flavored with leeks and fresh dill, a seasonal citrus salad made with local farmers’ market finds, a bottle of neighboring Tyler Winery’s 2019 Mae Estate Sta. Rita Hills pinot noir for her and Campbell to share, and dessert—individual hand pies filled with pears from the ranch orchard. Sharing such dinners with her family is a joy; extending that hospitality to others, in person or virtually, is enriching for all involved. “I feel very lucky,” Poett says.

Poett and her husband, Austin Campbell, (opposite) sip local wine by the grill.

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Poett carries a bowl of flowers (left) to brighten a table for the family meal (below) outside The Casa, where she hosts The Ranch Table events.

Potatoes With Leeks and Fresh Dill

“There’s nothing better than new potatoes,” Poett says, “and fall is the perfect time to cook them up.” For this flavorful side dish, Poett partners tender boiled potatoes grown on the ranch with sautéed leeks and dresses them up with parsley and dill. Serves 4 to 10 3 pounds new red and gold potatoes ½ cup (1 stick) salted butter ½ cup olive oil, divided 2 leeks, finely sliced 1 cup chopped fresh parsley 1 cup chopped fresh dill Kosher salt to taste Freshly cracked black pepper to taste Boil potatoes until fork tender, about 20 minutes, depending on size. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, warm butter and ¼ cup olive oil over low heat. When butter is melted, add leeks, and cook over low heat until golden and tender. Remove from heat and add parsley. Mix well. Drain potatoes and toss in a large bowl with remaining olive oil. Pour in butter mixture and toss well. Add dill and salt and pepper and toss again.

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Citrus Salad With Lemon-Mustard Dressing

Farmers’ market citrus fruit inspired Poett to create this refreshing salad. “We cannot grow citrus on the ranch, because our winters are too cold,” she says. “So when I go to the market I am always in search of these beauties.” The dish can serve as a showcase for whatever varieties are in season. Poett makes the dressing with honey produced on the ranch. Serves 4 LEMON-MUSTARD DRESSING ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon mustard 1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon pepper

SALAD ¼ cup pine nuts 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped ½ pound arugula 1 head red butter lettuce 2 gold nugget mandarins, peeled and sliced into thin wheels 1 ruby red grapefruit, peeled and sliced into thin wheels ¼ cup Manchego cheese, shaved

To make Lemon-Mustard Dressing: Combine all dressing ingredients in a mason jar and shake until well mixed. To assemble salad: Toast pine nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat, stirring constantly for three minutes or so, until golden brown. In a large salad bowl, combine romaine, arugula, and butter lettuce leaves and toss with dressing. Arrange citrus slices on top of salad and sprinkle with pine nuts and Manchego cheese.

NOVEMBER 2020 / 805LIVING.COM

An herbaceous rub enhances the flavor of the beef.

Bone-In Rib Eye With Fresh Rub

For this recipe, Elizabeth Poett flavors bone-in rib eyes with a pasty rub, fragrant with crushed thyme and fennel seeds. Although it may not look like enough to cover two steaks at first, a little goes a long way. Poett usually pulls them off at medium-rare because the meat continues to cook even after it’s off the grill. Serves 4 to 6 2 bone-in rib-eye steaks, 1½ inches thick FRESH RUB 7–10 sprigs of thyme 5 small (or 2–3 large) sage leaves, roughly chopped 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped ½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds ½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

The fire blazes (above) in the Santa Maria–style grill; the height of the grate can be adjusted via pulleys (below, right). Mason jars serve as wine glasses for the casual meal (below).

Lay steaks on a tray and set aside. To make Fresh Rub: Use your fingers to strip leaves off of thyme stems. Put leaves in a mortar with sage, garlic, fennel seeds, and peppercorns. Crush everything together with a pestle until the mixture begins to form a paste. Be

sure to crush the fennel and black peppercorns well—you should hear the peppercorns pop. Add salt and mash into a thick paste. Add olive oil and continue mashing the mixture until combined. Taste the rub and adjust the flavors to your liking. (The pepper might be strong.) Spread rub onto steaks with the back of a spoon or your fingers, pressing it gently into the meat and taking care to cover as much surface area as possible. Wrap steaks in plastic wrap to hold the seasonings against the meat, then put them on a plate in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to 2 hours. Take them out of the refrigerator about an hour before you plan to start cooking. Make sure steaks are at room temperature. Preheat grill to medium and grease grates to prevent steaks from sticking. Grill steaks, turning only once (about 7 to 10 minutes on each side) until steaks reach 125°F or the temperature of the doneness you desire on an instant-read thermometer. Remove steaks from grill, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for about 15 minutes. Slice against the grain at an angle and serve.

Cinnamon Pear Hand Pies With Bourbon Cream

“I love a hand pie,” Poett says. “They are so easy to make and even easier to eat. They are a great way to celebrate your favorite fruit of the season.” In autumn, she enjoys flavoring them with cinnamon and nutmeg, the traditional warm spices used to enhance the pear filling in this recipe. Her hand pies are a classic Ranch Table dessert. Makes 10 pies CRUST 3 cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into cubes and kept very cold ¼ cup ice water 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons raw sugar, for dusting 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, for dusting FILLING 2 Anjou or Bartlett pears, cut into small cubes ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon cinnamon Dash of nutmeg BOURBON-WHIPPED CREAM 2 cups whipping cream ½ cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons bourbon

Poett forgoes an electric mixer for a hand-crank egg beater (above) to whip cream for her Cinnamon Pear Hand Pies (opposite).

SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

To make the crust: Combine flour, sugar, salt, and butter in the bowl of a food processor and pulse mixture until butter pieces are the size of peas. Drizzle in ice water, pulsing mixture occasionally, and stopping when it is just moist enough to hold together when you pinch it. Turn dough out onto a clean counter and press it together to form two disks, about 1-inch thick. Wrap disks in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. To make the filling: Place pear and sugar in a stockpot over low heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Add lemon juice and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 15 minutes until mixture begins to thicken. Add cinnamon and nutmeg. Set aside and let cool. (You can speed up the cooling process by placing filling in

a container in the refrigerator for a few hours.) When ready to bake, preheat oven to 375°F and remove dough from refrigerator. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Beat egg yolks in a small bowl and set aside. On a floured cutting board, roll out dough disks into 2 rounds, about ⅛-inch thick. Using a 4-inch biscuit cutter, cut 4 circles from each round. Roll out the dough circles just a bit more to enlarge them slightly. Spoon 2 tablespoons of filling onto the center of 4 dough circles. Brush a small amount of yolk around the edge of each filled crust. Place one of the remaining 4 dough circles on top of each mound of filling, patting the edge around the filling to connect the upper and lower crusts. Using a fork, crimp the edges to seal. Poke the fork into the center of each pie top to allow steam to escape. Brush pies with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle with raw sugar and cinnamon. Transfer hand pies to prepared parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly golden brown. Remove pies from oven and set aside to cool slightly. To make the Bourbon Whipped Cream: Add cream to a medium bowl and whip with an electric mixer on high speed for 5 minutes. Add sugar and bourbon and whip until cream holds a peak when you raise the beater. Serve pies warm with a generous dollop of Bourbon Whipped Cream. 

JIM CLENDENEN’S L EGAC Y LIVES ON IN THE WINEMAKERS HE MEN TOR ED.

BY MATT KETTMANN PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MOSS

Carrying on Clendenen’s artistry (from left): Marc Piro of Piro Wine Company in Santa Barbara, Michael Brughelli of Brvghelli Wines in Santa Maria, Marisa Clendenen Matela of Clendenen Family Vineyards, Douglas Margerum of Margerum Wine Company and Barden Wines in Buellton, Rajat Parr of Raj Parr Wine Club in Lompoc, Gavin Chanin of Chanin Wines in Lompoc, and Joshua Klapper of Timbre Winery in Arroyo Grande.

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A longtime friend of Clendenen, Douglas Margerum (right) of Margerum Wine Company and Barden Wines says Clendenen created a unique winemaking culture.

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As sadness descended upon the Central Coast after news of Santa Barbara winemaking pioneer Jim Clendenen’s sudden death on May 15, 2021, there was a simultaneous chorus of confident hope that his legacy will live on, thanks to the countless vintners he mentored over the years about wine and life. As the proprietor of and mind behind Santa Maria’s Au Bon Climat Winery, which he cofounded in 1982, Clendenen preached the gospel of Santa Barbara County wines to the world and strived to make wine—particularly pinot noir and chardonnay—in classic ways. His message and methods live on in Clendenen’s contemporaries, like veterans Bob Lindquist of Lindquist Family Wines in Arroyo Grande, Frank Ostini of Hitching Post Wines in Buellton, and Douglas Margerum of Margerum Wine Company and Barden Wines in Buellton, as well as younger-generation winemakers. “He was brilliant, clever, articulate, and bold,” says Margerum of his longtime friend, travel buddy, and tennis partner. “He taught me so much, and I’ll miss him forever.” “Jim brought a culture of winemaking that was completely different from what was taught in the agricultural and viticultural schools in California,” says Margerum, who was trained directly by winemakers in France and Australia. “He did not take a scientific approach as much as he did an artistic approach to the making of wine.” Margerum continues to do what Clendenen did. “We serve lunch every day to our staff and to visitors,” Margerum says. “We barrel taste instead of just opening bottles, and we usually open older vintages when people visit the winery, like it is done in Burgundy.” Here’s how seven other local winemakers will carry Jim Clendenen’s spirit forward.

CLENDENEN: KIRK IRWIN

Jim Clendenen 1953–2021

MARISA CLENDENEN MATELA

CLENDENEN FAMILY VINEYARDS, SANTA BARBARA aubonclimat.com As her uncle, Jim Clendenen was a fixture in Marisa

Clendenen Matela’s life for as long as she can remember. But she got to know him even better in 2008, when she began working under his wing at Au Bon Climat. She cofounded Bevela Wines in 2013, but is now focusing on Clendenen Family Vineyards with her cousins, and Jim’s children, Isabelle and Knox Clendenen. “When you experience a wine that has been aged for 10-plus years and it still has acidity, balance, and complexity,

it alters your view on how to produce wine that can last and be enjoyed for decades,” she says of her uncle’s influence. “There are many different styles and philosophies on winemaking, but Jim taught me you only need a few key ingredients to make an excellent wine: great vineyard sources, balanced brix and pH, excellent barrels, and minimal intervention.” He also showed Matela how to be a person of her word, as evidenced in this anecdote about a broken toilet at the winery. “I said I could fix it,” she recalls. “Everyone laughed, and as I got up and started walking to the bathroom, Jim yelled out, ‘If you really go in there and fix the toilet, I’ll buy you a car!’ I fixed the toilet, and four months later, he bought me a Toyota Matrix.”

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MICHAEL BRUGHELLI BRVGHELLI WINES, SANTA MARIA brvghelli.wine M

ichael Brughelli first met Clendenen when crashing a dinner Clendenen hosted in 2006. “He recognized then that I was very green in the business but treated me with respect from day one,” says Brughelli, who later began negotiating

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regularly with Clendenen as a sales director for Bien Nacido Vineyards. “We had some very interesting and occasionally somewhat heated exchanges. But after each negotiation we seemed to land in a positive place.” Brughelli cofounded Scar of the Sea Wines in 2012 but recently sold his interest to start a luxury-level brand called Brvghelli Wines, after the old spelling of his family name. The latter start-up moved into Au Bon Climat at Clendenen’s invitation in 2019. “There is a rustic and Old World nature to his winemaking, which I’ve always found tremendously exciting and endearing,” says Brughelli. “There’s a tremendous amount of nuance to these decisions that I would never have had an understanding of without being there.” Of all his interactions with Clendenen, Brughelli echoes many in saying that the daily lunches at Au Bon Climat were most meaningful. “The lunch tradition has always been inspiring to me,” Brughelli says. “It reminds me in my life to slow down and enjoy the people, wine, and food at the table. This was hard for me to grasp for quite some time. But I’m forever grateful to Jim for instilling that in me.”

JOSHUA KLAPPER TIMBRE WINERY, ARROYO GRANDE timbrewinery.com A

PAUL LATO

PAUL LATO WINES, SANTA MARIA paullatowines.com

fter excelling as a sommelier in Los Angeles, Joshua Klapper wanted to make his own wine, and found the perfect teacher in Jim Clendenen, with whom he worked at Au Bon Climat from 2005 to 2010. “In the world of wine, Jim was a giant, but when you asked him a question, he was always thoughtful and sincere in his answer, even to a 25-year-old intern like me!” explains Klapper, who now owns Timbre Winery. “It is likely why so many of us were drawn to him. He was happy, almost driven, to share the knowledge he had amassed over a lifetime of study.” Like many others, Klapper was intrigued by the longevity of Clendenen’s wines, the simplicity of his techniques, and his reliance on good vineyard sources. He remembers tasting a particular wine with Clendenen over lunch during his first harvest season: “I asked Jim how that wine was made and why it was so good. His answer was, ‘I have no idea. We made it like we make everything else.’ His tone was completely matter-of-fact. It taught me to trust the process and enjoy the magic that can result.”

Polish immigrant who fled during the final days of communism and eventually settled in Canada, Paul Lato was already an accomplished sommelier when he enjoyed a long lunch with Clendenen in Toronto in 1995. “You’ve read all the wine books—stop being a wine geek, it’s time to see it from the other side,” Lato recalls Clendenen saying as he invited him to work a harvest. “That’s how it started,” says Lato, whose brand began in 2002 with the help of Gary Burk of Costa de Oro Winery— another former Clendenen student—and steadily grew into a critical darling. “I always thought of Jim as a generous man, because he shared his knowledge,” says Lato, who learned many practical lessons from Clendenen, like when to be tougher in transactions and how to be frugal when needed. “[Jim’s] winery was a very, very humble place. He insisted on keeping it in a most simple way. That was his style. But he told me how to take dollars and stretch them.” Lato also felt welcomed as an immigrant. “Jim was the quintessentially Californian guy, but he had a very good understanding of European culture,” he says. “He could relate to my culture.”

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RAJAT PARR

RAJ PARR WINE CLUB, LOMPOC rajparrwineclub.com W

hen it came time for superstar sommelier Rajat Parr to lay down his winemaking roots, the Calcutta-raised, San Francisco-resident chose to work in Santa Barbara County with Jim Clendenen. From 2004 to 2008, Parr made his first wines with Clendenen under the Parr Selections label before

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breaking off to start such brands as Sandhi, Domaine de la Côte, and the Raj Parr Wine Club. Today, Parr is usually found tending to a small vineyard of obscure varieties in the canyons above San Simeon, but his mind never strays far from Clendenen’s influence. “He was the master of balance,” says Parr. “He showed me how to pick at the right time and also about the use of barrels and élevage [processes to bring out wine’s characteristics]. He had the magic touch!” Clendenen’s last road trip, in fact, was with Bob Lindquist and Paul Lato to visit Parr and his new farm. “Jim was more than a mentor,” says Parr, who traveled overseas with Clendenen, often to Tokyo, Bali, Europe, and elsewhere. “He was like family. I looked up to him as a big brother.”

GAVIN CHANIN CHANIN WINES, LOMPOC chaninwine.com G

MARC PIRO

PIRO WINE COMPANY, SANTA BARBARA pirowinecompany.com

avin Chanin was just 18 years old when he first showed up at Au Bon Climat in 2004. “I knew nothing about wine and winemaking, so Jim had to teach me everything,” explains Chanin, who started Chanin Wine Company three years later, but worked for, often lived with, and frequently traveled with Clendenen until 2012. “Jim and I would taste wines from all over the world, and Jim would break them down and teach me about the techniques that were used to make those wines.” Chanin explains that Clendenen’s reputation for being wild at parties is accurate. “But I remember the early mornings, the seven-day work weeks, the long nights, and all the extra time Jim put in,” says Chanin. “He never stopped working. He had a ferocious passion for his craft. He was also disciplined and intimidatingly intelligent, and the company he built, his team, and their success reflect that. Jim was uncompromising when it came to making great wine. All of this was inspiring to see.” Chanin believes that without Clendenen, there’d be no Chanin wine. “I owe him everything,” he says. “Jim’s mentorship was legendary, and his legacy and memory will live on in the winemakers he inspired. I am lucky to have been one of them.” 

As an employee at Au Bon Climat, Marc Piro worked every

day with Jim Clendenen, from 2012 until Clendenen’s death. “Sometimes when you would talk to Jim, it was like a stream-of-consciousness exercise for him,” remembers Piro. “He would talk, and as you were listening, you would become hypnotized. Every conversation with Jim was chock-full of anecdotes, some funny, some meaningful, and some that were on another level that you couldn’t make sense of.” Piro credits Clendenen with giving him the self-assurance to start Piro Wine Company in 2014. “As many people as he had to look after and care for, he always told me that I would be great in the winemaking world,” says Piro. “Being validated by Jim Clendenen, one of the biggest names in the history of wine, gave me the confidence to fulfill my vision. His words and actions will always inspire me to achieve wine greatness.” Lighter in style with a focus on elegance rather than power, Piro’s wines are much like those of Au Bon Climat. “Before meeting Jim, I knew how to make wine,” he says, “however I had not yet come into my winemaking style. Jim taught me about the importance of balance that comes from natural acidity and ripe, not overripe, grapes.”

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Taste FOOD / WINE / DINING OUT

Hands On

TRY THESE TRUE ITALIAN—AND LOCAL—RECIPES FOR MAKING PERFECT PASTA FROM SCRATCH AT HOME (NO PASTA MACHINE REQUIRED).

By Jaime Lewis

ne summer, my husband and I lived near the Italian port of Genoa, where I fell in love with the regional specialty trofie al pesto. The little pasta spirals tossed in vibrantly green basil pesto sat proudly at the top of nearly every menu on the Ligurian coast, and I couldn’t get enough. Back in the States, I wanted to recreate the dish in my kitchen, but trofie pasta was nowhere to be found. After considerable searching, it became clear that if I wanted trofie at home, I’d have to make them myself. And because I lacked a pasta machine—and didn’t want to make the investment— I’d have to do it by hand.

SCIALATIELLI AMALFITANA “This is a dish that originates off the Amalfi Coast,” says Gessica Russo, who owns San Luis Obispo’s Flour House (flourhouseslo. com) with her husband chef, Alberto Russo. “You can find scialatielli throughout Amalfi during the summer, which is just how we’re doing it at the restaurant.” The dish is close to the Russos’ hearts, not just because Alberto hails from the Amalfi Coast area, but also because it was served at their wedding rehearsal dinner in Italy. To make the pasta, Gessica says it’s better to make the sciallatielli too thick rather than too thin. “It’s supposed to be a square, thick pasta—that’s what makes it different from any other kind of pasta. Also, cook it only until it’s al dente,” she says. “Don’t let it boil too long or it will lose its bite.” Serves 4 to 6 SCIALATIELLI 1¼ cups semolina flour

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I was prepared for a failure or two, but it turns out, trofie are a ridiculously easy shape to make with a few very basic kitchen tools. And they’re not the only ones. Got a fork? Make cavatelli. Got a knife? Make scialatielli. Got a rolling pin? Make pappardelle. While owning a pasta sheeter certainly would refine the final product, making these shapes by hand lends a rustic touch to each dish. Plus, it’s just fun, as evidenced by a growing number of people who have taken up the art this year and documented the results on social media. Here are three recipes for rustic pasta from Italian-born chefs working locally to ensure that dinner is delizioso.

1¾ cups of flour 1 ounce Pecorino Romano grated 1 ounce grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Zest of 2 lemons 3 eggs ¼ cup milk 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil AMALFITANA SAUCE 2 garlic cloves, whole 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 10 ounces clams 10 ounces mussels 7 ounces grape tomatoes 3 teaspoons Italian parsley, finely chopped, divided ½ cup white wine Salt and pepper To prepare the pasta: In the bowl of a stand mixer set up with a dough hook, combine flours, cheeses, and lemon zest. On low speed, add eggs and ⅛ cup milk.

As the ingredients start to come together, increase the speed to medium, and pour in the rest of the milk, followed by the extravirgin olive oil. Let the mixer work for 10 to 15 minutes, until the dough is smooth. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and set it aside for 30 minutes at room temperature. Divide the dough ball in half and form each half into a ball. Sprinkle a wooden board with flour. Use a rolling pin to roll one dough ball to ¼ inch thick. Roll the dough into a cylinder and hand cut it into ⅓-inch-wide rings. Repeat with the other dough ball. To make the Amalfitana Sauce: Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium heat, sauté garlic in olive oil for 30 seconds. Add clams, mussels, whole tomatoes, and 1 teaspoon parsley, then add wine and cook the mixture for 5 minutes. >

Taste Food Unfurl the scialatielli in the boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the pasta to the skillet and sauté with the shellfish for 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with remaining parsley to serve.

WILD MUSHROOM PAPPARDELLE “This dish is inspired by a classic mushroom dish in Italy,’” says chef Luca Crestanelli, owner/partner and executive chef of S.Y. Kitchen (sykitchen.com) in Santa Ynez. The recipe features wild mushrooms, but even high-quality white button mushrooms contribute some of the same woodsy aromas and flavors. “We use mascarpone to give the dish a silky texture,” says Crestanelli, in a nod to his brother and sous chef Francesco, who is especially skilled in the making of fresh pasta. While it’s fun to make pappardelle by hand, he also recommends buying a pasta maker to flatten the dough. Serves 4 PAPPARDELLE 5 large eggs, beaten 3 cups organic wheat pasta flour, plus more for dusting 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon fine salt 1½ tablespoons salt for pasta-cooking water MUSHROOM SAUCE ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons diced garlic 2 teaspoons diced shallots 16 ounces fresh wild mushrooms (or maitake, shitake, oyster, white shimeji), cleaned and chopped Pinch of thyme 1-2 cups fresh mascarpone (a high quality brand like Gioia, Ciresa, Defendi) Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated To prepare the raw pasta: Mix eggs, flour, oil, and 1 teaspoon fine salt in a large bowl or in a stand mixer with a dough hook until a firm dough forms. Take out and massage/ knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 to 15 minutes. Return dough to bowl; cover with a clean kitchen towel and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Remove dough from refrigerator and use a rolling pin to roll it out as thinly as possible on a board or countertop (or put it through a pasta machine). Using a rotary cutter, like a pizza cutter, cut it into long strips, about 8 to 12 inches long and 1 inch wide. Gently toss pasta with more flour to keep strips separate. Cover with the kitchen towel while you prepare the mushroom sauce.

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To cook pasta and prepare the mushroom sauce: Put a large pot of water over high heat, add 1½ tablespoons of salt when water is boiling. Add olive oil, garlic, and shallots to a sauté pan over medium heat. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and thyme and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes until the mushrooms are slightly colored. Add 1 cup of mascarpone and remove the pan from heat while the mascarpone melts. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, add pasta to the boiling water. Cook until only partially done, 3 to 6 minutes, depending on thickness. Use tongs to transfer pasta and a little bit of cooking liquid to sauté pan with mushroom sauce. Return mushroom pan to stove over medium heat, and slowly toss pasta and sauce together. Add ½ cup of ParmigianoReggiano and more mascarpone, if a thicker sauce is desired. Slowly stir until pasta is hot and season once more with salt and pepper to taste. Finish with a touch more Parmigiano-Reggiano, and serve in a bowl.

CAVATELLI ALL’ANTONIO “In Italy, we eat ricotta as an appetizer, in pasta, and so many other places,” says Antonio Sessa, owner and executive chef of Made in Italy bistro (madeinitalybistro.com) in Westlake Village. “When I cooked with my grandmother, if we had some ricotta left over, she’d figure out where else she could put it in another dish.” He brings his grandmother’s waste-not-want-not approach to everything he creates at his bistro, including cavatelli pasta made with ricotta. The Italian word cavatelli shares the same root as the English words cave and cavern, which explains this pasta’s hollowed-out shape. For the sauce, Sessa uses San Marzano tomatoes—a treasured southern Italian variety—which grow near his ancestral home on the Amalfi Coast. Serves 4 to 6 CAVATELLI 1 pound ricotta cheese ½ tablespoon nutmeg, or a little more to taste 1 cup Fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated (optional, but highly recommended) Zest of 1 lemon 2 eggs 1 pound (3⅓ cups) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting TOMATO SAUCE 1 handful of basil leaves 1 garlic clove 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving 1 shallot, minced

28 ounces canned San Marzano tomatoes Pinch of chili pepper flakes Pinch of salt and pepper To prepare the pasta dough: In a large bowl, mix together ricotta, nutmeg, ParmigianoReggiano, lemon zest, and eggs. Add most (about 80 percent) of the flour. Stir well and continue to add flour little by little until the pasta has lost much of its moisture, using your hands to mix. When the dough no longer sticks to the bowl, form it into a ball, and place it in a clean bowl. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 10 minutes. To make the tomato sauce: Tear basil leaves by hand and smash garlic clove; set each aside. In a sauté pan, warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and shallot and cook for about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and basil, reserving some basil for garnish. Add a little water to the empty can to collect remaining bits of tomato, and pour that into the pan, too. Bring mixture to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Add chili pepper flakes and salt and pepper. Cover the pan partially, leaving room for steam to escape. Lower heat again and simmer to break down tomatoes. To form the pasta: Cut small slices of the large dough ball, much as if you were slicing a round loaf of bread. Using your hands, roll each slice out on a cutting board into a thin cylinder, about 12 inches or longer and no more than ½-inch in diameter. Cut each cylinder into pieces that are ½-inch to 1-inch long, then sprinkle flour on the pieces. With your finger, lightly press a piece of dough crosswise against the tines of a fork, starting at the top and gently moving downward, so that the dough curls up and is marked with grooves on the outside from the tines. Each piece should look like an ocean wave with rivulets in it. Cover the formed cavatelli with a kitchen towel. Set a pot of water on the stove to boil. Return to the sauce: Gently smash the tomatoes in the pan with a wooden spoon. To cook the pasta: Salt the boiling water and add cavatelli to the pot. They will start floating; after they float, wait 1 to 2 minutes. Use a colander to drain all water from cooked cavatelli. Add drained pasta to pan with tomato sauce. Do not turn off heat. Add Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste and sprinkle reserved basil on top. Remove from heat. Drizzle with fresh olive oil and serve. · Hear more tips for making pasta by hand at home in the 805 Living Eats podcast with contributing writer Jaime Lewis and Luca Crestanelli, executive chef and owner/partner at S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez.

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Taste Wine By Matt Kettmann

Pushing the Coastal Extreme

WINEMAKERS FIND FRESHNESS, COMPLEXITY, AND CHALLENGES WHEN GROWING GRAPES SO CLOSE TO THE SEASIDE.

CHRIS LESCHINKSKY PHOTOGRAPHY

Less than a mile from the Pacific on the coast of San Simeon, Derbyshire Vineyard is Last Light Wine Company’s preferred source of pinot noir grapes because the vineyard’s unusual location gives the fruit a distinctive flavor.

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here’s a popular belief in the wine industry that challenged vines make more interesting wines. If you plant a vineyard in a place where the climate, soil, or slope forces vines to struggle for survival, the thinking goes, then the resulting fruit will better convey that cherished sense of place. For California vintners who do business according to the theory, this search for struggle leads to planting vines closer and closer to the Pacific Ocean. But the coast isn’t exactly ideal for grapes. Foggy weather creates mildew problems; the persistent wind hampers growth; and then there’s the issue of dormancy: moderate seaside temperatures don’t get cold enough to put vineyards into their annual deep sleep. Despite these hurdles, a growing contingent of winemakers continues to push the coastal extreme from Malibu to Hearst Castle. From a vineyard 1,500 feet high above the famous surf break known as the “Queen of the Coast,” the Rincon Mountain Winery 2018 Pinot Noir, Ventura County (rinconmtn.com; $65) ripened just fine, clocking

in at 15.6 percent alcohol with opulent black cherry flavors. “We’re just enough inland and high enough to get a better balance of marine layer exposure,” says co-founder Jill Siple. “Because we don’t deal with extreme degree fluctuations, we get nice, easy, and consistent temperatures at the vineyard. This allows for extended maturation hang time on the vines.” Just above Carpinteria lies Paredon Vineyard, the source of Carr Vineyards 2018 Grenache, Santa Barbara County (carrwinery.com; $45). “The most interesting thing is the reflective heat that you can receive off of the ocean if you have a dramatic view from the vineyard site,” says winemaker Ryan Carr, who’s developed special pruning techniques to trick the vines into proper dormancy. The Santa Maria Valley’s western edge is home to Murmur Vineyard, aka Rancho Real, and Solomon Hills, which is owned by the Miller family of Bien Nacido fame. Tolosa Winery’s 2019 Pinot Noir (tolosawinery.com; $130) from Solomon Hills is light in color and vivacious with herbal qualities. “Very mild temperatures give us a long growing season,” says winemaker Fred Delivert. “This helps keep that crisp acidity we usually have.” Jeremy Leffert’s Amor Fati 2018 Syrah, Murmur Vineyard (toothandnailwine.com; $60) reveals the grape’s savory, cool-climate hallmarks. “Coastal growing conditions are the guardian of natural acidity, allowing me to achieve my stylistic goals with

harvest decisions and let me get out of the way in the winery,” he says. The coastal push is fierce in San Luis Obispo County, where winemakers eagerly await the federal government’s approval of a “SLO Coast” appellation. Both Bassi Ranch and Topotero vineyards peek at the coast near Avila Beach. “This is the true San Luis Obispo coast,” says Mikey Giugni, whose Scar of the Sea 2020 Gamay, Topotero Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County (scaroftheseawines.com; $28) is zesty with

tarragon and tart plum flavors. “It helps bring acidity along with ripeness to the cool climate varietals.” Mike Sinor amplifies herbaceousness in his Sinor-

LaVallee 2017 Syrah, Whole Cluster, Bassi Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County (sinorlavallee.com; $65). Mildew is

a constant challenge for the vintner. “It does not hit the rain gauge, but very often the canopies are just dripping with moisture, perfect for mildew,” Sinor says. Coby Parker-Garcia achieves unique kelp and iodine flavors in his El Lugar 2018 Syrah, Spanish Springs Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County (ellugarwines.com; $52), grown just behind Pismo Beach. “Being this close to the Pacific Ocean, the wines have a nori and salinity note to them,” he says. “It’s a nice back note to the wine that adds complexity and freshness.” Most extreme are the vineyards in Cambria and San Simeon, even father north. Stolo Vineyards winemaker Nicole Bertotti Pope recently launched her own sparkling wine brand with the Haliotide 2016 Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs, Stolo Vineyards, San Luis Obispo County (haliotide.com; $85). “I just love

that you can almost sense the sea air in the aromas and flavors of these wines,” she says. Farther up the canyon, Lisa Miller grew Cutruzzola 2017 Riesling, Riven Rock Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County (cutruzzolavineyards.com; $30), which pops

with citrus, jasmine, and stone fruit. “Yields tend to be low,” she says of her challenges. “If you’re planted in the coastal hills as we are, steepness of terrain makes farming difficult and expensive.” The Derbyshire Vineyard stares at the ocean just a kilometer from the coast of San Simeon, where the aptly named Last Light 2019 Pinot Noir, Derbyshire Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County (lastlightwine. com; $38) catches the final glimpse of the sun each day. “We continue to work with this extreme site and all its challenges simply because we love the wines we can craft,” says winemaker and partner Jared Lee. “They represent what we set out to make when starting this label in 2011: wines that truly show a sense of place and the extreme coastal location allows us to do just that.” · SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

Bibimbap and Beyond

Q&A: Harold Welch and Saba Tewolde Embermill

 Known for the creative Caribbean fare he serves at his Santa Barbara restaurant Embermill (embermillsb.com), Barbados-born chef Harold Welch is expanding the horizons of the eatery’s cuisine. Ethiopian lunches by chef and caterer Saba Tewolde are now available Monday through Friday. What was your inspiration for introducing the Ethiopian lunch program? Welch: We thought our customers would enjoy trying something new and unique for this area.

 Maru Kitchen (805-371-4577) in Westlake Village features authentic Korean specialties and Asian fusion dishes including Bibimbap and Kimchi Gumbo. Monday through Saturday, owners Sungyul Jung and Soojin Park offer lunch and dinner inside, out on the dog-friendly patio, and for takeout. For dessert, don’t miss the Hoddeok (aka: hotteok), a filled pancake. “It’s a popular street food in Korea,” says Jung.

What are some of the most popular lunchtime offerings? Tewolde: People love the Yedero Wot chicken stew, cooked with Ethiopian spices and served with injera, and the vegetarian combination with spiced split lentils, split peas, shiro (which is like a hot hummus), green beans, cabbage, carrot, potato, and sautéed collard greens. How would you describe your general culinary approach? Welch: I mostly keep it dairy-free and gluten-free. I’m diabetic, and I know it’s better for me to eat that way. I love creating dishes from my background using these guidelines.

Maru Kitchen’s Ssam Platter Bulgogi, a Korean lettuce wrap, arrives ready to assemble, with a thin-sliced rib-eye filling, napa cabbage and gem lettuce leaves, and Ssamjang sauce.

RECENT DEBUT Chocolate, caramel, almond, and hazelnut come together in the Candy Bar at Alessia Patisserie & Café.

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French Connection  A visit to the new Alessia Patisserie & Café (alessiapatisserie.com) feels like a quick trip to Paris. “I wanted to create a beautiful modern French patisserie with no stuffy vibe,” says pastry chef and owner Alessia Guehr, whose résumé includes stints at Four Seasons Resort the Biltmore Santa Barbara and Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery. The breakfast and lunch spot offers seating at tables and counters in the light-filled dining room and at sidewalk tables in front. A window to the kitchen provides a view of Guehr or assistant pastry chef Jordan Pilarski in action. Meticulously crafted European pastries beckon from bakery cases. Specialties include croissants, seasonal éclairs, and the signature “candy bar,” layers of crunchy chocolate wafer, caramel, brownie biscuit, and milk chocolate-hazelnut mousse dipped in a crunchy almond glaze. A full breakfast menu is available, along with lunch options including salads, sandwiches, quiche, crepes, Croque Monsieur, and Croque Madame. Sip a coffee from Verve Coffee Roasters, local wine, beer, elderberry spritz, or a mimosa.

RIGHT: SOOKYUNG PARK; BOTTOM, LEFT: COURTESY OF ALESSIA PATISSERIE & CAFÉ

By Nancy Ransohoff

Dining Out

What ’s n ew o n th e lo c al re s ta ura nt sce n e. 98

MUST-TRY MENU

CULINARY COLLABORATION

NEW DIGS

Vegan Eats Take Up Residence  Dalan Moreno, the chef behind Rascal’s (Instagram @rascals_sb) pop-ups featuring innovative vegan fare, has taken up an extended kitchen residency, sharing space with Venus in Furs wine bar in Santa Barbara. “I’ve been vegan for 16 years,” says Moreno, whose plant-based takes on Mexican street food and American classics have garnered a loyal following. “I started the project to create and share the food I enjoyed in my travels and that I wanted as a consumer.” The menu changes monthly, but mainstays are the Elote, corn on the cob slathered with house-made vegan mayonnaise and topped with crushed spicy corn tortilla chips; and the Molcajete, a fajita-like dish featuring a changing array of ingredients, such as plant-

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based riffs on carne asada and chorizo, potatoes, grilled nopals, and serrano chiles, served with handmade tortillas. Sunday is burger night, and patties are made with a plant protein–based Impossible product; pair one with a vegan milkshake. Rascal’s is open Wednesday through Sunday from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.

FROM TOP: VIVIANA CONTRERAS; MIKAELA HAMILTON; ROB TRAN

Pickled shallots, herbs, toasted bread crumbles, and pretty edible flowers top the Little Gem Salad at The Good Plow.

Vegan dishes from Rascal’s, a well-established pop‑up run by chef Dalan Moreno (above, top), are now available at the Venus in Furs wine bar in Santa Barbara.

 Katie and Jason Lesh, owners of Farm Cart Organics grocery-delivery service, introduce The Good Plow (Instagram @thegoodplow), a casual farm-to-table restaurant in Carpinteria. The menu leans toward vegetarian and vegan items, along with fish tacos and a lox bowl. The family-friendly counter-order restaurant sports a surfy vibe and spotlights organic ingredients, right down to the cooking oil. “We are excited to open our first restaurant that carries over the same mission and values from Farm Cart Organics,” says Katie. A retail area showcases unique food products made in-house or by small local vendors. “We believe in organic, clean food, transparency, and supporting small farmers,” says Katie. “We’re also happy to have a soft serve window that continues the concept of the building’s former occupant, Fosters Freeze.” Beverages include organic wine and beer. The restaurant offers lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. 

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Onyx shines the spotlight on bright, fresh nigiri sushi and shashimi in offerings like the Hayabusa roll, with yellowtail, shrimp, asparagus, avocado, and creamy ponzu. The American Wagyu beef skirt steak is also a highlight on the well-rounded menu. Prosperous Penny is a sophisticated, comfortable social watering hole pouring inventive cocktails, aged bourbons and whiskeys, and rare spirits. Accompaniments are available from a seasonally driven light-bite menu. For a sip of joe, Stir coffee bar, located off the lobby, is open daily from 6 a.m., offering a grab-and-go menu of baked on-site pastries and savory options along with cold-brewed coffee, juices, gelato, and other treats. Valet parking is $10 with validation; self-parking is free for up to four hours with validation.

LES PETITES CANAILLES 1215 Spring St. Paso Robles, 805-296-3754 lpcrestaurant.com French; Entrées $17–$40

THE DINING GUIDE Our aim is to inform you of restaurants with great food that you might not have experienced yet. This guide is arranged not by cuisine type, but by style of restaurant. “Fine Dining” choices have an elegant atmosphere and very professional service. Restaurants included under the “Foodie” heading are heralded for their wonderful chef-driven cuisine, regardless of atmosphere. “Good Eats” listings are just that—solid, casual, and delicious. The “Fun, Fun, Fun” category brings you spots geared toward a good time. New listings will appear in Where to Eat Now in every issue. Please send any comments and suggestions to edit@805living.com. MORE ON THE WEB: Visit 805living.com for more listings and to make quick and easy reservations at many of the restaurants listed here and on the website through Open Table.

Fine Dining

These restaurants have a skilled kitchen team, a lovely dining room, and great service. UPDATE BELMOND EL ENCANTO 800 Alvarado Place Santa Barbara, 805-845-5800 belmond.com/el-encanto-santa-barbara Entrées $26–$54 Great Views, Romantic

The luxe Belmond El Encanto hotel perches atop its seven-acre hilltop property with sweeping city and ocean views. Settle in on the spacious terrace to experience the plant- and seafood-forward cuisine of executive chef Bruno Lopez in dishes such as king salmon, seared diver scallops, risotto with sea urchin or black truffle, glass noodles, and a grains and greens bowl. Taking influences from various California cultures, the menu showcases the flavors of local artisanal ingredients including fresh seafood, caught daily. Wine offerings from Santa Barbara County and around the globe, beers, and cocktails are among a wide selection of beverage choices. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily, although Sunday lunch is replaced with a bottomless Bellini brunch. Afternoon tea is served Monday through Saturday from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. with 24-hour advance notice. In-the-know locals and hotel guests take in the sunset, cocktail in hand, on the terrace.

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CA’ DARIO 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara and 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara and 1187 Coast Village Road, Montecito and 250 Storke Road, Unit B, Goleta 805-884-9419 cadariorestaurants.com Italian; Entrées $11–$30

The flagship of Dario Furlati’s growing restaurant empire sits at the corner of Victoria and Anacapa streets somewhat off the Santa Barbara tourist path but decidedly worth the walk. House-made pastas here come with Bolognese or tomatoes, olives, and capers or smoked salmon, peas, tomatoes, and cream. Terra-cotta-baked chicken, roasted quails with porcini ragout sauce, and fish-of-the-day specials are also available. For faster fare, check out Ca’ Dario Pizzeria Veloce, found inside the Santa Barbara Public Market. People of Goleta, take note: Ca’ Dario Cucina Italiana serves lunch and dinner in a Storke Plaza space decorated with dark woods and white tablecloths. A recently opened Montecito location also serves lunch and dinner.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL WESTLAKE VILLAGE 2 Dole Drive Westlake Village, 818-575-3000 fourseasons.com/westlakevillage/dining

Three dining concepts at this resort offer a variety of options. At Coin & Candor, a breakfast, lunch, and dinner brasserie, original dishes by chef Jesus Medina are driven by the seasonality of ingredients from local purveyors and influenced by his Latin roots.

Offering a taste of Paris in Paso without the pretense, this buzzing French farm-to-table bistro focuses on sophisticated, modern cuisine in a casual, comfortable setting. Julien Asseo, chef and co-owner with his wife, Courtney, received his culinary education in France and honed his skills at Michelinstarred eateries Restaurant Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas and La Fontaine de Mars in France. Following dishes like steak tartare, escargot in puff pastry, steak frites, dayboat scallops, beef cheek Bourguignon, and Le Burger, it’s easy to say oui to crème brûlée or profiteroles for a very French ending.

UPDATE LUCKY’S 1279 Coast Village Road Montecito, 805-565-7540 luckys-steakhouse.com and 3835 Cross Creek Road, Suite 18 Malibu, 310-317-0099 luckysmalibu.com Steak House; Entrées $16–$69 Saturday & Sunday Brunch

At the Montecito location of this upscale steak house, black-and-white portraits of stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Sammy Davis Jr., Andy Warhol, and Julia Child adorn the walls. The plates and napkins are monogrammed, the patio is tented and heated for year-round enjoyment, and the bar opens an hour before dinner service begins. Steaks can be dressed with seven different sauces, there are eight versions of potato side dishes, and the onion rings should have their own Facebook fan page. The Malibu location in the Malibu Country Mart offers the same mouthwatering steaks, chops, seafood, and cocktails, and carries on the black-and-white theme with an eye-catching jazz-themed mural in the dining room. Seating is also available on the covered and heated outdoor patio. Dinner is served daily in Montecito and Tuesday through Sunday in Malibu. Lunch is offered Monday through Friday in both locations.

MEDITERRANEO 32037 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 818-889-9105 med-rest.com Mediterranean; Entrées $16–$58 Great View, Weekend Brunch

Recently reopened after a major makeover, this favorite of locals and hotel guests retains an elegant yet comfortable vibe. Located on the 17-acre property of the Westlake Village Inn, the all-new design includes an expansive bar for sipping craft

COVID-19 restrictions affecting dining options are subject to change, but local restaurants need your support whenever possible.

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

JAMIE SLONE WINES

DESTINATION VINE

SANTA BARBARA jamieslonewines.com

SANTA BARBARA destinationvine.com

Winner of Santa Barbara News-Press Readers Choice Poll as BEST Winery and BEST Tasting Room! 42 socially spaced seats outside on our café-style patio. Open daily for wine-tasting flights. Reservations suggested on weekends.

Tasting Room 23 E. De La Guerra St., Santa Barbara; 805-560-6555

ZACA MESA WINERY & VINEYARDS Our exclusive private tours take you to estate vineyards that are the true “hidden gems” in Santa Barbara's celebrated wine country! We’ll create a customized itinerary based on your wine preferences and desired experiences. Our goal is to exceed your expectations and make unique and lasting memories. Let us plan a perfect day just for you.

720 California St., Santa Barbara; 818-219-3083

LOS OLIVOS zacamesa.com

Known for incredible Rhône-style wines, Zaca Mesa Winery was the third winery established in Santa Barbara County and the first to plant Syrah. Our estate is open daily for wine tastings and offers a beautiful venue for weddings, corporate events, and private events.

6905 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos; 805-688-9339

SUMMERLAND WINERY SUMMERLAND summerlandwine.com

KAENA WINE COMPANY SOLVANG & LOS OLIVOS kaenawine.com

A dog-friendly boutique winery dedicated to producing fine wines from California’s Central Coast. Join us in our tasting room nestled just blocks from the beach in the charming town of Summerland, California.

2330 Lillie Ave., Summerland; 805-565-9463

CROSSHATCH WINERY SANTA YNEZ crosshatchwinery.com

All of our wines are co-fermented blends from Santa Barbara County vineyards. Only 1,000 cases are produced each year. Stop by the tasting room in Santa Ynez to enjoy a wine tasting or sip wines on the patio.

Tasting Room 1090 Edison St., #104, Santa Ynez; 805-691-9192

Celebrating our 20th Anniversary, Kaena is proud to open our second location on Highway 246 between Solvang and Buellton. With a large barn setting, outdoor patios, and beautiful mature trees, this oasis is the perfect place to wine down and taste 90+ point wines, with more than 18 varietals to choose from. Our town location at the flagpole in Los Olivos offers the original “Grenache King” experience.

800 E. Highway 246, Solvang; 805-688-4069

Where to Eat Now cocktails and international wines. Executive chef Lisa Biondi has reimagined the menus to include bright Mediterranean dishes such as salatim, seasonal Israeli salads and spreads like street corn with lemon, yogurt, feta, and a punch of Aleppo pepper, at lunch and dinner. Dinner entrées include old favorites like classic prime steaks and housemade pastas, along with lamb sirloin souvlaki and grilled whole branzino. Weekend brunch options include Benedicts, shakshuka, pancakes, and waffles. Patios offer views of the lake or vineyard.

Champagne with live bluegrass music on Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Indigo Pool & Bar offers salads, sandwiches, and adult libations served poolside and in cabanas. The Pixie Café is located at the family-friendly Pixie Pool. Jimmy’s Pub offers a menu of salads, sandwiches, wood-fired pizzas, and entrées plus craft beers and cocktails. (It’s also one of the few restaurants in Ojai to stay open past 10 p.m. on weekends.) Next door, Libbey’s Market is the place to go for a quick sandwich and a scoop of McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams.

NONNA 951 S. Westlake Blvd., #102 Westlake Village, 805-497-8482 nonna.restaurant Italian; Entrées $18–$45 Romantic, Great Patio

ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH 1759 South Jameson Lane Montecito, 805-900-8388 rosewoodhotels.com/en/miramar-beachmontecito Californian and Italian; Entrées $19–$55 Great Views, Saturday and Sunday Brunch

A casually elegant dining room of distressed wood lit with unique light sculptures by artist Timothy J. Ferrie is a beautiful fit for Florence-born and -trained restaurateur Jacopo Falleni. The menu avoids the faddish, instead cutting a culinary swath through the Italian peninsula and islands with tradition-rich dishes that reflect Falleni’s Tuscan upbringing (gnudi with pomodoro sauce), executive chef Pamela Ganci’s Sicilian heritage (arancini), and pasta chef Pamela Ganci’s influences from Bologna (passatelli with peas). Service is engaging and professional, while Falleni himself fills the role of sommelier and designed signature cocktails for the full bar.

Santa Barbara’s TAP Thai (tapthaicuisine.com) restaurant is poised to open a second location at Hollister Village Plaza in Goleta. The new eatery will offer the same menu as the original, according to owner Preaw Chamchoi, with popular mainstay dishes like Pad Thai, Green Curry, and Drunken Noodles. Sit indoors in the industrial-chic dining room or on the dog-friendly patio and sip a local beer on tap or a glass of wine. Both locations are open for lunch and dinner daily. OJAI VALLEY INN 905 Country Club Road Ojai, 805-646-1111 ojaivalleyinn.com Various Cuisines Entrées $11–$60; Saturday Buffet Brunch $32, Sunday Bluegrass Brunch $55

The resort’s beautiful setting can be enjoyed by hotel guests and others who simply want to patronize the restaurants. As the fine-dining flagship, Olivella features California-Italian cuisine (see separate listing). Start the evening with small bites and cocktails in the Wallace Neff Heritage Bar, located in the resort’s original golf clubhouse and named for the architect who set the inn’s Spanish Revival tone. Other dining venues include the tranquil Spa Café in Spa Ojai, where light breakfast, fresh-pressed juices, and spa lunch are served inside or on the poolside terrace. The Oak is famous for its casual but attentive lunch service on a shaded patio overlooking the 10th hole of the resort’s golf course. It also serves breakfast and dinner and two styles of brunch: buffet on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and bottomless

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Set in a spectacular seaside location, this luxury beachside resort’s seven distinctive restaurants and bars are open to the general public as well as hotel guests. Executive chef Massimo Falsini oversees the dining destinations, which emphasize locally and sustainably sourced ingredients. Caruso’s, the signature oceanfront eatery, is open daily for dinner and features alfresco seating over the sand in addition to a stylish dining room outfitted with deep blue leather booths. Menu highlights include starters such as hand-pulled burrata as well as Baja kampachi crudo, house-made pastas including the chef’s signature carbonara, uni tagliolini, and main courses such as pan-roasted petrale sole and grass-fed Watkins Ranch beef fillet. Local and international wines and traditional handcrafted signature cocktails are also offered.

UPDATE SAN YSIDRO RANCH 900 San Ysidro Lane Santa Barbara, 805-565-1720 sanysidroranch.com American; Entrées $48–$90, Sunday Brunch $95 Great View, Romantic, Sunday Brunch This historic resort’s Stonehouse restaurant is helmed by executive chef Matthew Johnson. Set upstairs inside a 19th-century citrus-packing house, it boasts an inviting dining room with fireplaces, creek-side views, and a sheltered terrace. The lunch menu offers dishes like Crispy Halibut Tacos, while dinner mains include options such as Steak Diane, prepared in the classic style and flambéed tableside. Sip from the renowned wine cellar’s 12,000 bottles of varietals from around the globe. Sunday brunch includes starters, entrées, desserts, and Champagnes from Mumm.

NEW SEAR STEAKHOUSE 478 4th Place Solvang, 805-245-9564 searsteakhouse.com Steakhouse; Entrées $26–$125

Living up to its name, this restaurant and bar from owners Demetrios and Karen Loizides, owners of K’Syrah Catering and Events, serves up expertly prepared steaks and sides. Chef Erik Dandee oversees a seasonal menu that includes ingredients sourced from the Loizides family’s Santa Ynez Valley organic farm. Steaks range from a filet mignon center cut to a shareable tomahawk. Pork chop, lamb, and fresh seafood dishes are also on the menu. Restaurant co-owner and mixologist Alberto Battaglini applies the same high standards to the beverage program, which features a locally focused wine list and inventive cocktails. A separate menu is devoted exclusively to martinis.

TIERRA SUR RESTAURANT AT HERZOG WINE CELLARS 3201 Camino del Sol Oxnard, 805-983-1560 tierrasuratherzog.com

New American; Entrées $16–$144 (for 32-ounce rib eye for two), Buffet Brunch $65 Sunday Brunch Tucked inside Herzog’s winery and tasting room, Tierra Sur specializes in wine-friendly meals made with careful attention to detail. Executive chef Gabe Garcia maintains a local, seasonal vibe at lunch and dinner. Marinated olives and lamb bacon are made in-house. Tapas feature Wagyu sliders and a Margherita pizza with basil-cashew cheese. Watch carefully, and you may see your bone-in rib eye for two prepared on the patio’s wood-burning grill before it is served with fried kale and roasted potatoes. Desserts include frozen custards, vanilla-spiced doughnuts, and a show-stopping Baked Alaska. Surrounded by the coppery glow of the walls and the burnished-wood wine rack that frames the kitchen pass-through, diners may forget they’re at a kosher restaurant in an Oxnard industrial park. The restaurant is closed on Fridays and Saturdays in observance of the Sabbath. Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. is served buffet style, with carving and omelet stations and weekly specials inspired by ingredients from local farms.

TRA DI NOI RISTORANTE 3835 Cross Creek Road, Suite 8A Malibu, 310-456-0169 tradinoimalibu.com Italian; Entrées $18–$36, Market Price for Some Seafood Sunday Brunch

Even though locals know what they want without opening a menu, the kitchen at this restaurant in the Malibu Country Mart can still impress the rest of us with its handmade pastas, shaved truffles, grass-fed beef, local olive oil, and salads made with produce from Malibu’s Thorn Family Farm. The spaghetti carbonara manages to be both low fat and delicious, and the seasonal specials are a treat. The well-curated wine list matches the food and offers prime selections for sipping on the patio.

UPDATE WATER’S EDGE RESTAURANT AND BAR 1510 Anchors Way Ventura, 805-642-1200 watersedgeventura.com American; Entrées $21–$55 This aptly named bar and grill offers well-prepared plates from land and sea in an elegant setting with harbor views. Starters like chorizo crab cakes, garlic shrimp, and the restaurant’s award-winning New England clam chowder set the stage for main dishes such as seared sesame seed–crusted ahi and braised Szechuan short ribs. Brunch, served every Saturday and Sunday, offers appetizers, egg dishes, beignets, and waffles, as well as burgers, sandwiches, and locally sourced fish. Pets are welcome on the patio. Happy hour is every day from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. (except holidays).

Foodie

Cuisine that shines regardless of decor, service, ambience, or even views. 101 NORTH EATERY & BAR 30760 Russell Ranch Road, Suite D Westlake Village, 805-852-1588 101northeateryandbar.com New American; Entrées $22–$46 Sunday Brunch, Late-night Menu

Award-winning chef and owner Anthony Alaimo delivers seasonal dishes that are big on international flavors along with wine, beer, and signature cocktails. The restaurant’s relaxed, modern setting includes a bar with a large flat-screen TV, a rustic communal table, and an

THESE FLOWERS HAVE A LOT OF FIGHT IN THEM. The Alzheimer’s Association Walk to End Alzheimer’s® is full of flowers — each carried by someone committed to raising funds and awareness to help end this disease. It’s time to add your flower to the fight. Visit alz.org/walk for more information about this year’s event and to register.

West Ventura County...........September 25, 2021 Santa Maria...................................October 2, 2021 East Ventura County..................October 23, 2021 San Luis Obispo..........................October 30, 2021 Santa Barbara............................November 6, 2021

2021 NATIONAL PRESENTING SPONSORS

Where to Eat Now outdoor patio. Expect starters like wild albacore kabobs with Calabrian chili tapenade and grilled Spanish octopus with white bean hummus and mains such as a cumin-rubbed lamb rack, Mediterranean sea bass with green romesco, house-made tagliolini pasta with Selva prawns, and wood-fired, thin-crust pizzas. Sandwiches and sides are on the happy hour menu on Tuesdays through Saturdays from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and Sundays from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. A late-night menu is offered on Tuesdays through Saturdays from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m.

BELL’S 406 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-4609 bellsrestaurant.com French; Entrées $18–$27

Daisy and Gregory Ryan, alums of Per Se, Thomas Keller’s Michelin-starred New York restaurant, helm this French-inspired bistro in the historic town of Los Alamos. Located in a building that served as a bank in the early 1900s and as a biker bar later, Bell’s delivers classics like steak tartare, wild Burgundy snails served with bread from Bob’s Well Bread Bakery down the street, and coq au vin. For lunch, try the French dip made with roasted rib eye. Reservations are available through the website or via email to info@bellsrestaurant.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Bacara, Santa Barbara (ritzcarlton.com) unveils new culinary offerings with a reimagined menu at Angel Oak that includes a raw bar, Santa Barbara Uni Tagliatelle, and steaks with summer truffle. Angel Oak chef Efe Onoglu also helms the new San Setto restaurant on the terrace, featuring a contemporary Japanese menu of sushi and specialty rolls, sake, and craft cocktails. The hotel’s elegant indoor-outdoor ‘O’ Bar + Kitchen offers a revised menu of Mexican and Brazilian dishes as well. BIBI JI 734 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-560-6845 bibijisb.com Indian; $10–$16, Grill $15–$25, Curries $10–$18, Chef’s Tasting $50 per person

A short stroll from Stearns Wharf and the beaches along the Santa Barbara waterfront, Bibi Ji presents an approachable and modern twist on traditional Indian cuisine. The spacious restaurant, designed with a vibrant, eclectic decor, also has a private back patio for dining while taking in the fresh ocean air. Owners Alejandro Medina and James Beard Award–winning sommelier Rajat Parr offer a menu that highlights an abundance of local seafood, traditional coconut curries, a bounty of fresh regional produce cooked in Indian spices, a Chef’s Tasting menu, and an extensive list of natural wines. The critically acclaimed restaurant was included in The New York Times’ “52 Places to Go in 2019.”

BOB’S WELL BREAD BAKERY 550 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-3000 and Bob’s Well Bread Bakery at the Ballard Store 2449 Baseline Ave., Ste. 101 Ballard, 805-691-9549

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bobswellbread.com European; Pastries and Breads $1.50–$20, Entrées $7–$13

Located in a refurbished 1920s-era service station with its original Douglas fir floors intact, this artisanal bakery is well worth a visit. For the best selection, arrive at 7 a.m. on Thursdays through Mondays, when the doors open and aromatic scones, bagels, kouign-amann, pain au chocolat, and other pastries come out of the ovens. Loaves of naturally leavened, burnished-crust breads follow soon after. Special daily breads include gluten-free Centennial Loaf and pain aux lardons (Saturdays and Sundays). The on‑site café serves breakfast and lunch (think avocado toast tartine, croque monsieur sandwiches, and grilled bread with pâté and onion-bacon marmalade) until 3 p.m. Grab-and-go items for DIY picnics include ficelle sandwiches made with French ham, Emmentaler cheese, and house-made butter. Well Bread Wines created by Doug Margerum are available by the glass or bottle.

BOUCHON 9 W. Victoria St. Santa Barbara, 805-730-1160 bouchonsantabarbara.com Wine Country Cuisine; Entrées $26–$38 Romantic

Bouchon celebrates the local, from its carefully curated wine list to the craftspeople overseeing the successful remodeling of the garden patio at the front entrance. Executive chef Greg Murphy follows suit, using farmers’ market ingredients in dishes like pan-roasted local white fish with wilted dandelion greens or a soup featuring white carrots from Tutti Frutti Farms. (Murphy’s Foodie Stroll menu includes a tour of the Tuesday farmers’ market followed by a three-course meal with wine for $95 per person.) Add the gracious presence of proprietor Mitchell Sjerven and you have the ingredients for the first Santa Barbara-area restaurant in a decade to earn the AAA Four Diamond award for excellence.

CAFÉ BIZOU 30315 Canwood St., #14 Agoura Hills, 818-991-9560 cafebizou.com French; Entrées $17–$28

Cozy and candlelit, Café Bizou offers French comfort food in an unstuffy atmosphere. It’s known for wellcrafted classics such as traditional bouillabaisse, lobster bisque, escargots persillade, steak au poivre, double truffle pommes frites, along with plats du jour. Also look for grilled fresh fish, steaks, chops, chicken, pastas, and risotto. This is high-end food without the prices to match. A salad added to your dinner is $2 or $3, and wine buffs rejoice at the $2 per bottle corkage fee.

DECKER KITCHEN 4661 Lakeview Canyon Road Westlake Village, 818-735-9577 deckerkitchen.com American; Entrées $16–$42

Known for its upscale food and unpretentious neighborhood-hangout feel, Decker Kitchen is the creation of chef-owner Graham Harris, who keeps the menu fresh and creative. Menu highlights include Harris’ naturally leavened sourdough bread, fresh-from-the-oven pizzas, starters such as Feta Mousse Toast with heirloom tomato, and entrées including barbecued pork ribs and seared rib-eye steak. Sip a craft cocktail or smalllot wine and nosh small bites on the patio Thursdays through Saturdays until midnight. Takeout is available.

NEW E + MON 2805 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 805-371-3693 eplusmon.com Sushi; Entrées $12–$27

Chef-owner Hidetoshi “Teddy” Seike, a restaurateur who was raised in Japan, joins forces with head chef

Koji Miyamoto, whose cuisine has earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition, at this stylish eatery in the Westlake Commons. They offer a creative lunch and dinner menu of sushi, sashimi, bao (steamed buns), and Asian salads that spotlight seasonal ingredients. Look for signature rolls such as the E + Mon Crunch Roll, featuring spicy tuna and shrimp tempura with chive mayo, avocado, sesame, sweet soy, cucumber, and citrus sauce. Premium sake, Japanese craft beer, and California wines are the perfect sips.

EMBER RESTAURANT 1200 E. Grand Ave. Arroyo Grande, 805-474-7700 emberwoodfire.com California-Mediterranean; Small Plates $10–$17, Pizzas $18–$20, Entrées $23–$32 Named for the wood fires used to cook the restaurant’s seasonal and farm-fresh dishes, Ember is the project of executive chef Brian Collins, an Arroyo Grande native who shares skills he honed at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and Full of Life Flatbread in Los Alamos with his hometown. The menu, like the beer and wine list, is locally focused, changes monthly, and includes rustic specialties such as crispy kale and house-made fennel sausage pizza, Jidori chicken alongside a wedge of grilled polenta and farmers’ market veggies, and grilled rib eye served over roasted potatoes and topped with a decadent garlic confit and avocado chimichurri.

FULL OF LIFE FLATBREAD 225 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-4400 fulloflifefoods.com Californian; Flatbreads and Entrées $9–$27

Opened in 2003, this down-to-earth gem has become a foodie destination. Dinner is served on Thursdays through Sundays, with lunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Owner Clark Staub’s vision rings deliciously true in every bite of the fresh salads, flatbreads, and entrées made with seasonal ingredients from local farmers’ markets and artisan food producers. For flatbreads, look for the vegetarian Shaman’s Bread with a crunch of New Cuyama pistachios and the Nitrate-Free Pepperoni and Peppers. Diners who sit at the bar can order food there, too, and seating is available outside.

HELENA AVENUE BAKERY 131 Anacapa St., Suite C Santa Barbara, 805-880-3383 helenaavenuebakery.com Baked Goods, California-Eclectic; Entrées $4–$14

The artisanal bakery and café is brought to you by the masterminds behind The Lark, Lucky Penny, and Loquita in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. The address says Anacapa Street, but walk in from Helena Avenue for the quickest access to Dart Coffee drinks and croissants, scones, cookies, and other pastries made with seasonal ingredients. Open daily, the bakery serves breakfast from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m., when don’tmiss items include Green Eggs & Ham made with spicy green harissa and grits topped with a fried egg. The lunch menu from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., offers salads and sandwiches, plus specials like Nashville Hot Chicken served with house-made pickles. The bakery’s rustic patio is shared by its neighbor, the Santa Barbara Wine Collective, which offers curated tasting flights and wines by the glass and bottle.

HOTEL CALIFORNIAN 36 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-882-0100 thehotelcalifornian.com/santa_barbara_ restaurants/ Eclectic; Small Plates $12–$19

Built on the grounds of the original Hotel Californian less than a block from Stearns Wharf, Santa Barbara’s

This is a pickle you want to be in. Pickles & Swiss (picklesandswiss.com) sandwich shop adds a Woodland Hills location to its Santa Barbara and Goleta shops, offering a menu of hot, cold, and build-your-own sandwiches, paninis, wraps, house-made soups (try the Basil Tomato Bisque), and fresh salads. Look for fan favorites, including the signature sandwich with ham, prosciutto, Emmentaler cheese, and house-pickled veggies, along with gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan options. Both indoor and outdoor seating are available.

Food, Family and Flying...and now Dinner!

newest resort pays careful attention to all the luxurious details while retaining a casual yet elegant vibe. Its dining options are equally skilled. Blackbird, a cocktail bar located on the ground floor of the hotel, features lounge-style seating, a creative menu of small plates from executive chef Travis Watson, and inventive cocktails by mixologist Devon Espinosa in addition to local wines and craft beer. (Fans of Alfred Hitchcock will get a kick out of his photo in the dining room.) Located in a separate building from Blackbird, Goat Tree is an order-at-the-counter café with its own patio and, in the dining room, windows with a view of the kitchen. It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with grab-and-go options for impromptu picnics.

UPDATE INDUSTRIAL EATS 181 Industrial Way Buellton, 805-688-8807 industrialeats.com New American; Entrées $10–$18

Part restaurant, part butcher shop, and part takeout, this popular spot is hard to miss—just look for the colorful mural with floating sausages and the retro neon “EATS” sign in front. Inside, you’ll find locally sourced dishes by owner and executive chef Jeff Olsson. The frequently changing menu features an array of wood-fired pizzas, such as rosemary with Parmesan or skirt steak, tomatillo, and queso fresco (a soft, mild, white Mexican cheese). Small plates include chicken liver with guanciale (Italian cured pork), while the sandwich list offers selections like the Crispy Pork Banh Mi. Local wine and beer options are on tap. Check out the deli case for imported cheeses, house-cured meats, and other delicacies.

NEW LA PALOMA CAFÉ 702 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-966-7029 lapalomasb.com Californian/Mexican/Spanish; Entrées $21–$30 Weekend Brunch

This neighborhood favorite occupies a historic building and a special place in the hearts of locals. The original La Paloma Café was open from 1940 until 1983; for the next 37 years it was Paradise Café. Now owned by Acme Hospitality, the restaurant offers a creative menu focused on oak-grilled meats and fish, along with seasonal produce. Chef Jeremy Tummel melds Spanish and Mexican influences in dishes such as Santa Barbara Mission Chicken with apple-and–pink peppercorn sauce and Santa Maria–Style Snake River Farm Wagyu Tri Tip. Sip a specialty margarita, local wine, or beer. Seating is offered on a two-level outdoor patio or inside the casual dining room. Dinner is served Wednesday through Sunday; Saturday and Sunday brunch is from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Now serving dinner Friday and Saturday nights from 5 pm to 8:30 pm. Tues.–Sun. 8 am–3 pm | Fri. & Sat. 5 pm–8:30 pm 805.388.2535 | thewaypointcafe.com 325 Durley Ave., Camarillo, CA 93010 SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

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Where to Eat Now THE LARK 131 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-284-0370 thelarksb.com New American; Entrées $18–$42

Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone takes flight with The Lark, named for the Pullman train that once made overnight runs between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The past is present in the restaurant’s setting, a former fish market remodeled to include exposed brick walls, subway tile, communal tables, and private booths fashioned from church pews. As culinary conductor, executive chef Jason Paluska oversees a thoroughly modern menu that highlights local ingredients. West Coast oysters with Goleta caviar lime are popular starters to shared plates of roasted chicken with green peppercorn gastrique, depending on the season. Craft brews, wines by the glass, cocktails, and mocktails extend the artisanal spirit into the bar.

LIDO RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 2727 Shell Beach Road Pismo Beach, 805-773-8900 thedolphinbay.com/lido Californian; Entrées $16–$58 Great View, Daily Brunch

things started with appetizers like chilled, Creolestyle, boiled shrimp and Santa Barbara live uni, and sip local wines, craft beers, and classic cocktails.

cookies filled with salted caramel. The Foodies in Training children’s menu includes a turkey slider with fruit, yucca fries, and a drink, all for $6.

LOQUITA 202 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-880-3380 loquitasb.com Modern Spanish; Entrées $19–$42 Great Patio

NELLA KITCHEN & BAR 2860 Grand Ave. Los Olivos, 805-686-1359 nellakitchen.com California-Italian; Entrées $36–$44, Pinsas $14–$35, Small Plates $14–$26

Loquita is Spanish slang for a wild, fun-loving girl, but this eatery’s menu and food are seriously irreproachable. Executive chef Peter Lee sources the finest meat, fish, cheese, and produce to create festive, communal, à la carte meals, including tapas, pintxos (small bites typically pierced with a toothpick), and signature paella dishes. Drinks autentico include sangria and Spanish-style gin and tonics. Enjoy the spacious patio with two inviting fireplaces, or try the small-bites bar named, naturally, Poquita.

MADE IN ITALY BISTRO BY ANTONIO SESSA 3825 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Unit F Westlake Village, 805-370-8667 madeinitalybistro.com Italian; Entrées and Pizzas $16–$27

Chef Richard Pfaff brings his eye for fresh and local ingredients to a menu that echoes the creativity displayed by the art glass in Lido’s dining room. Appetizers include oysters with pink peppercorn mignonette and beef carpaccio with dijon aioli. Entrées include pasta carbonara, house-made burgers, and a generous rib eye with herbed porcini butter. The Chef’s Tasting Menu offers five courses for $75 ($100 with wine pairings). A daily affair, brunch from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. features a three-course plated option with bottomless mimosas as well as à la carte dishes.

Chef-owner Antonio Sessa serves up warm hospitality and authentic southern Italian cuisine at this bustling bistro. Order at the counter, then dig into Neapolitan-style pizzas from the Italian woodfired pizza oven, house-made pastas, fresh insalate, and main dishes from family recipes. Try Sessa’s handmade cavatelli ricotta pasta with his nonna’s Bolognese. At lunch, you can’t go wrong with panini such as the braised brisket, veggie, or turkey and pancetta with house-made tomato jam. Lunch and dinner are served every day except Sunday.

LITTLE DOM’S SEAFOOD 686 Linden Ave. Carpinteria, 805-749-7400 ldseafood.com Seafood, Italian; Entrées $23–$28, Pizza $14–$19

MOODY ROOSTER 2891 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 805-370-3131 moodyroosterwlv.com New American; Entrées $13–$30

Open for dinner, Little Dom’s is the latest culinary venture from Los Angeles restaurateur Warner Ebbink and executive chef Brandon Boudet. Leather booths, a restored wooden bar, and a raw bar create a comfortable old-school ambience. The seafood-forward menu focuses on local fish and includes pizzas from the wood-burning oven, handmade pastas, and Italian classics like chicken Parmesan. Guests get

Roblar Winery and Vineyards (roblarwinery.com) in Santa Ynez welcomes executive chef Peter Cham, who oversees all things food at the winery. Cham, who was most recently chef at Kimpton Canary Hotel’s Finch & Fork, creates a menu of seasonal dishes using produce and herbs from Roblar’s organic farm. Look for a weekly changing full-service menu of pairing-perfect plates, like Wood-Fired Wild Mushroom Pizza and Lamb Ragout Penne Pasta, served Friday through Sunday at the tasting room, with small bites available Monday and Thursday. 106

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Born in the Year of the Rooster, owner-chef Collin Crannell cooks whatever he feels like putting on the menu each day at this foodie version of a neighborhood café located in a Westlake Village shopping center. That’s what’s in the name. On the plate, Crannell—formerly the executive chef at The Lobster in Santa Monica—focuses on from-scratch fare showcasing local, seasonal produce, seafood, and proteins at lunch and dinner. Trademark dishes include crispy gnocchi with roasted cherry tomatoes, Parmesan fondue, and a swirl of aged balsamic, as well as a half chicken with roasted garlic and butternut squash. Wine and craft beers are available (ask co-owner Vicki Crannell for pairing suggestions).

MOUTHFUL EATERY 2626 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd. Thousand Oaks, 805-777-9222 mouthfuleatery.com Peruvian, Californian; Entrées $9–$14 Kid-Friendly

Don’t let the multicolored chalkboard menu or the solar-powered toy pigs decorating the dining room fool you: This order-at-the-counter café may specialize in salads, sandwiches, and what are called “powerbowls” in a fun, casual atmosphere, but chef and co-owner Luis Sanchez is serious about the food—witness Mouthful’s inclusion on Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S. for 2015. La Sarita, a sandwich of house-roasted pork shoulder served with fried sweet potatoes and pickled red onions, gets its heat from an aioli made with aji amarillo, a pepper from Sanchez’s native Peru. Additions at dinner might include malbec-braised short ribs on polenta one night and savory chicken stew called aji de gallina the next. Desserts include alfajores, delicate shortbread

The team behind S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez operates this rustic-chic restaurant and bar located inside the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn. Executive chef and partner Luca Crestanelli oversees the offerings, favoring refined comfort food made with farm-fresh ingredients. The evolving menu features selections of cheeses and charcuterie, small plates, and main courses like Wagyu Short Ribs. Crispy Roman-style pinsa (which has a lower gluten index than pizza) is perfect for nibbling with specialty cocktails, local beers, and Italian drafts, or a glass from the wine list that spotlights Santa Barbara County vintages, including selections from Fess Parker Winery. Warm woods and earth tones make the dining room inviting, and the outdoor patio seating is divine.

UPDATE OLIO E LIMONE RISTORANTE, OLIO BOTTEGA AND OLIO PIZZERIA 11 W. Victoria St., Suites 17-18, and Suite 21 Santa Barbara, 805-899-2699 olicucina.com Italian; Restaurant Entrées $20–$42, Bottega $4–$12, Pizzeria $6–$28

Husband-and-wife owners Alberto Morello and Elaine Andersen Morello preside over these three Italian venues. At the ristorante, salads, seafood, chicken, and chops are served alongside house-made pastas and sauces. Olio Bottega, a casual breakfast, lunch, snack, and retail spot next door, serves egg dishes, Italian croissants, and espresso drinks for breakfast and hot Italian street food specialties and panini on house-made focaccia for lunch. Shop from a selection of Italian specialty products, cocktails, beer, and wine to take home. At the pizzeria, enjoy chicken, fish, and beef entrées, pasta, antipasti, salads, and panini. Pizzas are topped with gourmet ingredients, such as sautéed rapini, spicy salami, and black truffles.

OLIVELLA 905 Country Club Road Ojai, 805-646-1111 ojaivalleyinn.com California-Italian Entrées $37–$65 (a three-course experience is $90 or $150 with wine pairings; four-course experience is $110 or $180 with wine pairings) Romantic, Great Views

This fine-dining restaurant at Ojai Valley Inn features California cuisine with an Italian twist. From chef de cuisine Andrew Foskey’s menus come beautifully plated dishes like Kabocha Squash Ravioli, Tails & Trotters Farm Tenderloin of Pork, and Wild Pacific Sea Bass. Save room for the Citrus Olive Oil Cake or Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta, just two of executive pastry chef Joel Gonzalez’s creative dessert options. Dining spaces include a private wine room as well as a veranda overlooking the first and final holes of the property’s world-class golf course. The restaurant also hosts winemaker dinners.

PICO AT THE LOS ALAMOS GENERAL STORE 458 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-1122 picolosalamos.com New American; Shared Plates & Entrées $9–$46 Live Music

The spirit of a one-stop general store lives on in the historic town of Los Alamos, the northern gateway to the Santa Ynez Valley. The outstanding chef-driven, locally

Make your case for the new Courthouse Tavern (sbtavern. com), located across from the Santa Barbara County Courthouse and sunken garden in Santa Barbara. The neighborhood eatery offers American food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and all-day happy hour with drink specials and small plates. An evolving seasonal menu may include fried chicken and waffles for breakfast or lunch and a vegan cauliflower “wings” dish. Seating is available indoors or outside on the porch and parklet. sourced dinner menu from executive chef John Wayne Formica changes frequently but offers dishes like local crudo, grilled octopus, house-made pastas, smoked pork chop, and dry-aged rib-eye steak. Charcuterie and cheese platters are a mainstay. Pair the fare with a signature cocktail, beer, or wine from the well-curated list spotlighting small-scale vintners, which earned Pico “Top 100 Wine Restaurant” recognition from Wine Enthusiast Magazine. The spacious, refurbished building is also the tasting room of Lane Tanner and Will Henry’s Lumen Wines of Santa Maria. Upscale but down home, Pico is keeping destination diners as well as the local cowboys coming back for more.

Seaside side Eats | Boutiques | Water Fun | Pamper | Sweet Trea Treats

SAMA SAMA KITCHEN 1208 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-965-4566 samasamakitchen.com at Topa Topa Brewing 345 East Ojai Ave. Ojai, 805-335-4175 topatopa.beer Asian; Shared Plates $11–$42

This hip spot buzzes with guests who come for wellprepared southeast Asian food made with ingredients sourced from local farms. Shareable plates include the signature jidori chicken wings with sweet and spicy tamarind glaze. A recently opened second location resides within Topa Topa Brewing in downtown Ojai, where the beer-friendly menu echoes the bold flavors of the original location but is especially tailored to pair with a pint. Order at the walk-up window and sit indoors or on the street-side patio.

tuesday-sunday from 4pm

Photo courtesy of Olio Pizzeria® and and AlessioMorello.com

SANTO MEZCAL 119 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-883-3593 santomezcalsb.com Contemporary Mexican; Entrées $15–$26

Located a block from the beach on the edge of the buzzy Funk Zone, this stylish venture from restaurateur Carlos Luna offers a fresh take on Mexican dishes made with local ingredients. The menu celebrates seafood with plates such as Halibut Ceviche and Camarones al Mescal (Mexican shrimp sautéed in a creamy mezcal sauce). Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily. A full bar pours creative craft cocktails and selections from wine and beer lists with local and international labels. Happy hour hums weekdays from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

THE SPOON TRADE 295 West Grand Ave. Grover Beach, 805-904-6773 thespoontrade.com American; Entrées $15–$32 Great Patio, Sunday Brunch

The Spoon Trade serves what chef Jacob Town calls “elevated comfort food” in a bright and

next door to sister restaurants

BOT TEGA

TEGA 11 W. Victoria St., Ste.’s 17, 18 & 21, Santa Barbara | OLIOCUCINA.COMBOT | 805.899.2699

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Where to Eat Now comfortable neighborhood hangout. Classic dishes (think: fried chicken, pasta, and upside-down cakes) are reimagined with of-the-moment flavors and local ingredients alongside a progressive beer and wine list.

Good Eats

S.Y. KITCHEN 1110 Faraday St. Santa Ynez, 805-691-9794 sykitchen.com Italian; Entrées $20–$38

BRENT’S DELI 2799 Townsgate Road Westlake Village, 805-557-1882 brentsdeli.com Deli; Entrées $6–$20 Kid-Friendly

Located on a quiet side street in Santa Ynez, this cozy spot is an oasis of craft cocktails and rustic Italian fare in wine and tri-tip country. Executive chef Luca Crestanelli lets his native Italian roots show in house-made pastas such as wild mushroom pappardelle, salmon puttanesca, and a don’t-miss grilled globe-artichoke appetizer. With its firepits and padded lounge seating, The Courtyard is a great place to settle in for pre-dinner cocktails and glasses of local wine or to stay for the whole meal. A lunch menu of salads, pastas, and oakgrilled meats and seafood is served daily.

THOMAS HILL ORGANICS 1313 Park St. Paso Robles, 805-226-5888 thomashillorganics.com Wine Country Cuisine Entrées $15–$41 Sunday Brunch

At this chic but casual restaurant in downtown Paso Robles, executive chef Libry Darusman builds on the vision of owner and founding chef Debbie Thomas by turning ingredients from local purveyors into elegant, satisfying fare at lunch, brunch, and dinner. (Why, yes, those are Loo Loo Farms tomatoes in the pickled stone fruit and house ricotta salad.) Wine, beer, and ciders from the region are also featured, adding to the restaurant’s farm-to-table bona fides. A new dessert bar served in the front bar and lounge area offers a selection of treats crafted both in-house and by local purveyors. Try Darusman’s spin on s’mores.

TRE LUNE 1151 Coast Village Road Montecito, 805-969-2646 trelunesb.com Italian; Entrées $18–$37

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Tre Lune, or “three moons,” is part of the Montesano Group, which owns Lucky’s in Montecito and Joe’s in Santa Barbara—and it shows. The walls are dressed in black-and-white photos of celebrities from yesteryear, the floors are Old World wood, and the tables are covered in blush-colored linen. Teeny tiny chairs mounted high on the wall bear brass plates engraved with the names of regular patrons. A ring-shaped, rolled pizza-bread appetizer is stuffed with smoked mozzarella and braised radicchio. It’s crispy outside and delicious inside. Pizzas from the stone oven can be topped with roasted eggplant, spicy sausage, or mushrooms and truffle oil. The wide selection of pastas are available in half or full portions. Veal scaloppine, rack of lamb, chicken Marsala, and even a cheeseburger round out the menu and support the extensive Italian wine list.

Not too fancy, not too expensive, and a good experience all around.

For amazingly good Reuben sandwiches on rye bread piled high with pastrami or corned beef, sauerkraut, and Thousand Island dressing, you can’t beat this slick deli. The booths are cushy and roomy, leaving space for your tummy to expand as you down a four-layer slice of chocolate cake or a plate full of stuffed cabbage rolls. A separate bar also offers the full menu. The patio out back allows for even more seating. A counter up front expedites take-out orders. Brent’s Deli is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.

FINNEY’S CRAFTHOUSE 982 S. Westlake Blvd., Suite 2 Westlake Village, 805-230-9950 and 494 E Main St., Ventura, 805-628-3312 and 35 State St., Suite A Santa Barbara, 805-845-3100 and 857 Monterey St. San Luis Obispo, 805-439-2556 finneyscrafthouse.com American; Entrées $10–$16 Kid-Friendly

The “craft beer spoken here” neon sign in the dining room doesn’t quite say it all at this casual but polished gastropub owned by Greg Finefrock, an 805 local whose childhood nickname inspired the restaurant’s moniker. In addition to the 30 brews on tap, you’ll find craft cocktails, California wines by the glass and bottle, and a fun atmosphere and menu that has something for everyone. With variations in decor between locations (look for the skee-ball machine and photo booth in San Luis Obispo), the menu remains the same. Shareable appetizers include glutenfree buffalo cauliflower tossed in yuzu sauce and chicken-and waffle bites that come with a tangy surprise: Tabascobraised kale. The house burger is made with a chuck, brisket, and hanger steak patty on a brioche bun (options include gluten-free buns and plant-based Impossible Burger patties). Crispy tacos, salads, and flatbread pizzas are also available. Seating is first-come, first-served at the copper bar.

THE HATCH ROTISSERIE & BAR 835 13th St. Paso Robles, 805-221-5727 hatchpasorobles.com American; Entrées $18–$35

Housed in a historic brick-walled building, this popular comfort food venue is also known for its well-made craft cocktails and friendly service. A lively atmosphere prevails as locals and visitors mingle, sharing the Hot

San Luis Obispo’s High Street Deli (highstdeli.com) now has a second location in Los Osos. High St. Baywood Park features some of the most popular sandwiches from the SLO location and some new additions, like the El Jefe Cubano with house-roasted mojo-marinated pork, along with Hearst Ranch beef burgers and chicken-cutlet sandwiches made with Italian-style fried chicken. Don’t skip the Straus Family Creamery organic soft-serve ice cream. Relax on the family-friendly patio while sipping from a list of six beers and four wines on tap. Skillet Cornbread or, when in season, a steamed and grilled Castroville Artichoke while perusing the menu. Though the offerings change seasonally, the wood-fired Rotisserie Chicken is a mainstay, while it lasts. Daily specials include Fried Chicken on Monday and Tuesday, served with house-made hot sauce, black-pepper honey, and smoked-bacon potato salad. Standout entrées on the simple menu are the Hatch Burger, Seared Salmon, and Beef Short Rib. For dessert, don’t miss the individual-sized pies. The Hatch opens nightly at 4:30 p.m.

JANE 1311 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-962-1311 janesb.com and Jane at The Marketplace 6940 Marketplace Drive Goleta, 805-770-5388 janeatthemarketplace.com Eclectic; Entrées $9–$34

Devoted fans keep coming back for the well-executed main dishes, pastas, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and daily specials at these sister eateries, which are named for owner Margaret Huston’s mother Jane Moody, whose pictures adorn the walls. The Santa Barbara location is open for dinner, offering entrées that range from grilled duck breast and filet mignon to Chicken Picatta and penne with housemade Bolognese sauce. For dessert, don’t miss the coconut chiffon cake. The Goleta venue is open for lunch and happy hour as well as dinner. The menu there is similar but also includes oak-fired, brick-oven pizzas.

LOVI’S DELICATESSEN 24005 Calabasas Road Calabasas, 818-223-8777 lovisdeli.com Deli; Entrées $11–$30 Kid-Friendly

“Delicatessen” seems like a misnomer for this sharp and sleekly designed modern restaurant and bar. A comprehensive menu offers standard deli fare like triple-deckers, house-made soups, and smoked fish platters but also features contemporary dishes such as Alaskan salmon, Mexican, pasta, and vegetarian specialties, and build-your-own salads with 65-plus ingredients. The restaurant consists of four spacious areas. A bright main dining room is designed with clean lines, earth tones, and stylish riveted steel tables. Another dining room has a full bar, and the beautiful shaded outdoor patio

is a perfect place for Sunday brunch. Most impressive is a private glassed-in dining room that seats 30 and has an equally impressive wine cellar. Fifteen flatscreens are judiciously placed, so they don’t detract from the upscale vibe. Lovi’s is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily and serves breakfast all day. Daily happy hour is from 3 p.m. until closing. Catering and delivery are available.

NEW MOMOTARO RAMEN 1803 Spring St. Paso Robles, 805-538-3876 eatmomotaroramen.com Ramen; Entrées $16–$17

Chefs Mateo Rogers and Brittney Yracheta bring Japanese soul food to Paso Robles with their casual lunchand-dinner eatery. This counter-service spot joins a variety of family-owned food purveyors and retail establishments inside the Paso Market Walk. Start with appetizers like the chicken and pork gyoza and karaage (Japanese fried chicken). Slurp ramen from bowls of the signature Momotaro Ramen tonkotsu (pork-bone) broth or seasonal vegetarian options. Seating is provided at the counter, as well as inside the Paso Market Walk and in the tree-shaded outdoor courtyard.

sunburstskylights.com Serving Santa Monica to Santa Barbara 805-499-8935 | Call for free estimates LIC#603871

OYSTER LOFT 175 Pomeroy Ave. Pismo Beach, 805-295-5104 oysterloft.com Seafood; Fresh oysters $16 per half dozen; Crudo $14–$27; Entrées $21–$47 Great Views

Savvy seafood lovers get their fix at this buzzing ocean-view spot with an outdoor patio. Oysters, such as Fanny Bay and Kumamoto, are delivered fresh daily and other fresh crudo starters include scallop carpaccio and salmon poke tacos. Preparations change seasonally, but look for pan-seared Pacific halibut and cioppino, chock-full of sea bass, mussels, prawns, and littleneck clams. Non-seafood options include hangar steak au poivre and wild mushroom and asparagus risotto. Go ahead and splurge on the peanut butter–chocolate tower. Happy hour is Mondays through Thursdays (excluding holidays) from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m., offering the chef’s choice of oysters on the half-shell with rice-wine mignonette for $1.50 each, $1 off draft beers, and $7 curated wines by the glass. Dinner is served nightly. SEPTEMBER 2021 / 805LIVING.COM

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Where to Eat Now POOKIE’S THAI CUISINE 900 Hampshire Road Westlake Village, 805-381-0094 pookiethai.com Thai; Entrées $7–$13 Kid-Friendly

Downstairs in the Water Court Plaza office complex, owner Pookie creates delicious Thai dishes for lunch and dinner daily. Lunch specials are a steal at $7 to $8 each. She also has a wide selection of interesting salads like the Outrageous Beef Salad with a spicy lime dressing and the protein-rich Yam Yai salad with shrimp, chicken, egg, and peanuts in a sweet-andsour dressing. Noodle dishes are generously sized and include the classic pad Thai and the interesting Hi Yo Silver with fried noodles, shrimp, and bean sprouts. Curries, vegetarian options, and fish dishes (such as the crispy sole with tamarind and chili sauce) give diners lots of great choices not found elsewhere.

RAMEN KOTORI 1618 Copenhagen Dr. Solvang, 805-691-9672 ramenkotori.com Japanese, Ramen; Entrées $7–$16

What began as a pop-up has evolved into this casual, cozy eatery from husband and wife team Francisco and Ikuko “Erica” Velazquez and Budi Kazali, owner of The Ballard Inn and Gathering Table. The farmers’ market-driven menu includes small bites like karaage (Japanese fried chicken), pot stickers, and seasonal salads. Look for daily specials such as kimchi fried rice and spicy fried chicken bao buns. The ramen roster includes a miso version with gluten-free and vegan options. Fresh sashimi specials are coming soon. Sip local beers and wines or Japanese sake.

RUMFISH Y VINO 34 N. Palm Street Ventura, 805-667-9288 rumfishyvinoventura.com Caribbean–Central American inspired Entrées $13–$27 Sunday Brunch

Rumfish Y Vino brings the taste and feel of the tropics to Ventura. The airy dining room and bar area and roomy outdoor patio with lush plantings and a fireplace puts diners in vacation mode. Begin by nibbling crispy Conch Fritters, Ahi Tuna Crudo, or Peruvian Ceviche. Move on to Caribbean Fish Stew, braised pork tacos on house-made corn tortillas, or vegetarian rice and beans with roasted vegetables.

New in Paso Robles, Della’s (dellaspasorobles.com) is serving up wood-fired pizzas, cocktails, beer, and wine. Owners Maggie Cameron and Eric Connolly, proprietors of The Hatch Rotisserie & Bar in Paso Robles, team up with chef Cory Bidwell, offering pies like the Smoke Show with smoked short rib, pickled pineapple, and roasted jalapeños. Beverage offerings include a mixand-match gin-and-tonic bar with a choice of gin, tonic, and aromatic. Open Thursdays and Fridays at 4:30 p.m., the pizzeria is expected to expand its hours of operation soon. 110

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Sip an inventive cocktail or local beer and wine. The restaurant is open for lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch, and daily happy hour.

THE STONEHAUS 32039 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 818-483-1152 the-stonehaus.com Mediterranean Sandwiches and Platters $10–$17 Dog-Friendly, Great Views, Kid‑Friendly, Romantic

Patterned after an Italian enoteca, the aptly named Stonehaus starts each day as a coffeehouse, serving kale-berry smoothies along with baked goods, wraps, and breakfast sandwiches from Lisa Biondi, executive chef at the adjacent Mediterraneo at the Westlake Village Inn. It switches to wine bar mode in the afternoons and evenings, when the menu includes charcuterie and crostini platters, salads, panini, and desserts. The outdoor pizza oven is fired up nightly (check website for hours). Wine flights are arranged by regions, varietals, and themes. Patios overlook the waterfall and the working vineyard, which is open for picnicking on Stonehaus fare (check website for information about seasonal tastings and festivals). The picnic tables and bocce ball court are family friendly, and visiting canines get a water fountain of their own near the courtyard fireplace.

Fun, Fun, Fun

Look to these eateries for festive food, an upbeat atmosphere, and a good time. ANDRIA’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & MARKET 1449 Spinnaker Drive Ventura, 805-654-0546 andriasseafood.com Seafood; Entrées $8–$24 Kid-Friendly

No visit to Ventura Harbor—or to Ventura, period—is complete without a stop at Andria’s, a locals’ favorite since 1982. On weekends, the fast-moving line to order can stretch out onto the restaurant’s front patio. Additional seating includes indoor dining rooms decorated with vintage photos and fishing gear, and a protected patio with a view of the docks. Charbroiled fresh catch of the day dinners come with rice pilaf, bread, and a choice of salads. Some items are available in stir-fry dishes. But deep-fried is the preferred method of preparation for everything from onion rings (served in a towering stack) to halibut and chips, oysters and chips, popcorn shrimp and chips, and, well, you get the idea. The atmosphere is beach casual: Orders are called out by number when ready, and it’s up to diners to gather utensils, tartar sauce, and other fixin’s from a counter near the kitchen. Beer and wine are available. An on-site fish market is open daily.

UPDATE THE ANNEX 550 Collection Blvd. Oxnard, 805-278-9500 thecollectionrp.com/the_annex Cuisines and prices vary by location Kid-Friendly

Seven restaurants offer as many dining experiences at this public market-style spot in the heart of The Collection at RiverPark. House-roasted coffee, avocado toast, and gluten-free muffins help jump-start the day at Ragamuffin Coffee Roasters, while The Blend Superfood Bar serves smoothies, juices, and acai bowls made with local berries and honey. Other order-at-thecounter options include Love Pho, Taqueria el Tapatio, Don Waffly, Burnin’ Mouth, and Silverlake Ramen. The

craft-beer bar Bottle & Pint serves local brews and ciders on tap and by the bottle and can; wines are available by the glass. Fun artwork, inventive communal seating areas, and two retail shops add to the vibe.

BETTINA 1014 Coast Village Road Montecito Country Mart Montecito, 805-770-2383 bettinapizzeria.com Pizza/Italian; Entrées and Pizzas $12–$22

First-timers to Bettina may think they’ve taken a wrong turn and ended up in Italy. At this bustling, cozy neighborhood restaurant patrons sip a Venetian spritz or Negroni and nosh on naturally leavened, Neapolitanstyle pizzas dressed up with inventive toppings. Antipasti, entrées such as chicken cacciatore, and fresh salads are also on the menu, which changes seasonally but always includes vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Lunch and dinner are served daily; online orders are available for pick up.

CAFÉ HABANA 3939 Cross Creek Road Malibu, 310-317-0300 cafehabana.com Pan-Latin; Entrées $9–$25 Sunday Brunch

Café Habana isn’t limited to Cuban food or cocktails. Dishes represent all of Latin culture, from South American ceviches to Mexican grilled corn and huevos rancheros to Cuban pulled-pork sandwiches. Owner Sean Meenan is an eco-warrior while partner Rande Gerber brings in the celebs and keeps the nightlife hopping. The food is good, the cocktails are great, and the coconut flan is out of this world.

FLOUR HOUSE 690 Higuera St. San Luis Obispo, 805-544-5282 flourhouseslo.com Italian Starters $5–$21, Pizzas $15–$20, Pastas $19–$28

With a sleek interior, dynamic menu, and portrait of Sophia Loren, Flour House isn’t just a pizzeria: It’s a love song to Italy. Co-owner and Salerno native Alberto Russo works magic with imported flour and a Stefano Ferrara pizza oven, the gold standard for traditional pizza napolitana. During Meter Mondays, pizzas are available in different sizes depending on the number in your party: a half-meter for four people includes a choice of three tastings ($28), while a full meter serves eight with a choice of six tastings ($50). Don’t miss Russo’s house-made pastas or the weekday-night aperitivo hour from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., featuring cocktails such as the classic Negroni and Aperol Spritz as well as beer and wine and appetizers from $4 to $6.

HITCHING POST II 406 E. Highway 246 Buellton, 805-688-0676 hitchingpost2.com Steak House; Entrées $26–$56

A fan favorite since its star turn in the 2004 movie Sideways, Hitching Post II radiates a western-style steak-house feel with down-home service and hearty portions of Santa Maria–style barbecue. In addition to oak-grilled steaks, the menu features ribs, quail, turkey, duck, and seafood. Sip from the Wine Spectator award-winning wine list that includes a selection of Hitching Post labels.

LUCKY PENNY 127 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-284-0358 luckypennysb.com Californian; Entrées $11–$16

Located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone, this orderat-the-counter spot ranks as one of the city’s most

Instagrammed restaurants. The exterior covered in thousands of shiny copper pennies is a draw, but so is the creative menu of close-up-worthy salads, sandwiches, small plates, and wood-fired pizzas. The latter includes such local-place-named favorites as the Milpas, topped with fingerling potatoes, chorizo, and a sunny-side-up egg. Salads are big enough to turn into a meal or to share with a friend who orders pizza. Seating is on a pet-friendly patio adjacent to The Lark restaurant. Coffee is served, along with beer, wine, cider, and a life-giving frosé accented with local strawberries and tarragon.

LOS OLIVOS WINE MERCHANT & CAFÉ 2879 Grand Ave. Los Olivos, 805-688-7265 losolivoscafe.com Wine Country; Entrées $12–$29

This retail wine shop adjoins an all-day café with seating indoors by the stone fireplace and outside on the wisteria-covered patio. Cheese plates and olives are small bites perfect for pairing with wines at the bar. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and pizza comprise the lunch menu. At night choices get a little fancier with pot roast, lamb shank, pasta, chicken, steak, and fresh fish. The wine selection from the shop (available to diners) has more than 400 labels and specializes in picks from California’s Central Coast. Now that’s fun.

OLIO PIZZERIA 11 W. Victoria St., Suite 21 Santa Barbara, 805-899-2699 oliocucina.com Italian; Small and Shared Plates $5–$19, Entrées $15–$21

This combination Italian pizzeria and enoteca is brought to you by the owners of Olio e Limone Ristorante, the more formal eatery located next door. The Victoria Court setting includes a long bar with a peekaboo view of the pizza oven, plus small tables. Menu offerings include chicken, fish, and beef entrées, as well as pasta, antipasti, salads, cured meats, cheeses, vegetables, and housemade dolci. The pizzas, with thin, chewy crusts, are individually sized and topped with excellent ingredients—sautéed rapini, spicy salami, cremini mushrooms, and black truffles among them. Lunch or brunch is served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and the dinner menu is available daily from 11:30 a.m.

MORE ON THE WEB: Visit 805living.com for more listings and to make quick and easy reservations at many of the restaurants listed here and on the website through Open Table.

until 10 p.m. Wines from California and Italy are available by the glass, carafe, half liter, and bottle.

PEASANTS FEAST 487 Atterdag Road Solvang, 805-686-4555 peasantsfeast.com Seasonal Comfort Food Entrées and Sandwiches $14–$18

Owned by chef Michael Cherney, an alum of Las Vegas’ L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and his wife Sarah, a hospitality pro, this family-friendly restaurant focuses on scratch-made food from local ingredients. Menu stars like Solvang Hot Chicken sandwich, The Grotto Smash Burger, Local Rock Fish Tacos, and family meals such as Whole Fried Free-Range Chicken are served in the casual earthtoned dining room, on the outdoor patio, and for takeout. Reina’s Ice Cream by the Scoop, made by the Cherneys’ daughter, is a must.

MIKE WALLEN

RELM WINE & BEER BISTRO 2390 Las Posas Road, Suite H Camarillo, 805-991-7356 relmcamarillo.com Global; Entrées $14–$25 Great Patio, Live Music

LIC. #0711471

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This relaxed bistro in Camarillo Village Square has a wood- and leather-accented interior that opens to a large patio offering seating around a fire table. The patio is open Tuesdays through Saturdays from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., and well-behaved pups are welcome. A seasonal menu includes salads, sandwiches, flatbreads (try the one topped with prosciutto, lemon ricotta, and arugula), small bites, large plates, and desserts. Enjoy entrées, such as vegan pesto zucchini spirals and chimichurri-topped flatiron steak with a glass of wine from the international list or a local craft beer. The restaurant is open Tuesdays through Saturdays, and Happy hour with a special menu and discounted wines and beers is offered from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Listen to live music on Fridays and Saturdays.

Visit us at The Landing 818-889-5100

mwallen@farmersagent.com farmersagent.com/mwallen 32107 Lindero Canyon Road, Suite #124 | Westlake Village

TAVERNA TONY 23410 Civic Center Way Malibu, 310-317-9667 tavernatony.com Greek; Entrées $13–$37

Tune in to our 805 Living Eats podcast, an audio adventure through the kitchens and flavors of California's Central Coast, hosted by food columnist Jaime Lewis.

This huge space at the northeast corner of the Malibu Country Mart is almost never closed and never empty. There’s always fun to be had: If the classical guitarists aren’t playing, the waiters might be singing. Every meal starts with Greek-style country bread and house-made dip. The roast baby lamb is a specialty of the house for good reasons: The meat is garlicky and mostly tender with some crispy bites. The accompanying potatoes are roasted with lemon juice and the carrots are cooked with dill. Greek coffee is a perfect end here.

WAYPOINT CAFÉ 325 Durley Ave. Camarillo, 805-388-2535 thewaypointcafe.com American; Entrées $16–$25 Kid-Friendly

With its unique location at the Camarillo Airport, this café is a locals’ favorite for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and Friday and Saturday dinner with airplane traffic views. Signatures at dinner are Chicken Marsala, Top Sirloin Steak, and Rotelli Cajun Pasta, and tacos, burgers, sandwiches, and salads round out the menu. At lunch, try the Serrano Cheeseburger and an old-fashioned ice cream milkshake. Egg dishes rule at breakfast, along with Belgian waffles, pancakes, breakfast burritos, and house-made Cinnamon Roll French Toast. Tri-tip cooked on an oak-fired grill makes a special appearance on Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday. Sit inside or on the spacious outdoor heated patio. 

Find it on Apple, Google, and Spotify (keyword: 805 Living Eats).

ALEXANDRA WALLACE

Sunburst Wine Bar (Instagram @sunburst_wine) in Carpinteria now offers fresh seafood from Santa Barbara Fish Market. The new collaboration allows sippers to enjoy delicacies such as sea bass ceviche, ahi poke, hot-smoked king salmon “candy,” and seaweed salad inside the bar, on its deck, and to go. Pair with a local wine or beer on tap. “It’s a great way to grab something special to take to the beach,” says Ryan Moore, who owns the bar with his wife Ashley.

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