Numero 3 // 2013
Benedikte’s Diary Through the DESIGNER’S EYES
Fashion Fair CIFF
the catwalk aw13 Show
Sneak an exclusive peak! BACKSTAGE
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NUMERO 3 //2013
05 RESUME.
Find out about Numero 4
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BENEDIKTE’s DIARY.
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DAY BEFORE THE SHOW.
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Emotions & Excitements
What is happening in the studio?
BEHIND THE CURTAINS.
Sneak an exclusive peak before the AW 13 Show
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THE CATWALK.
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Through the DESIGNER’S EYES.
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FASHION FAIR CIFF.
Selection of outfits from AW13
Styling decisions
Displaying the AW13 Collection
75 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
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’A day in the Life of Fashion Designer Benedikte Utzon ’ Would you like to get a peek into the life of a Danish top designer? And have you ever wondered what is happening backstage on a grand fashion show? Get a firsthand look at the schedule of EST.1995’s designer and find out. Numero 3 is a behind the scenes exploration! Our third online universe covers reports, the life backstage, the catwalk and the exclusive diary of Benedikte Utzon filled with her thoughts, emotions and excitements. The winter 13 collection of EST.1995 was officially presented on the 30th of February for the very first time remaining a memorable day in the company’s life. Without disclosing too much, we can tell that you will read about a busy schedule from 5 am until 2 pm, the life of a full time mother and designer, interviews, rehearsals, technical meetings, models delaying and other thrilling details happening backstage. Double the excitement with two collections. Find out how Benedikte works her magic doing two perfect shows while remaining calm under pressure. But besides all these, Numero 3 also reflects on the fashion fair CIFF, the designer’s favorite pieces from the collection, pages filled with amazing visuals of the Bond-chick girls and the catwalk.
We wish you lots of fun reading & exploring!
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Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
”I am doing exactly what I love to do and I could never stop doing it! ”
DIARY
Salesteam started with AW 13 - check
wish that our very first est.1995 collection will be
Fairs held - check
presented in the best possible way. I rush to the
Show held - check
shower, it will be a long day and I am due to be
Basic collection done - check
at the morning TV studio at 6:45. I then prepare
Numerous interviews done - check
a lunch bag for Bartholine, luckily grandmother
Reviews of our collection are well received - check What’s next for me - summer 14?
has come from Aarhus and will help me with Bartholine the next few days. I agreed with the two that they should stay in bed and then enjoy mum on the TV screen at 7:30, then I will bring Bartholine to the kindergarten once I get home.
In this edition of our online universe we promised to focus on the winter 2013 collection. It has been a great experience for us and we are sincerely appreciative for how well the collection was received. I believe that the day of January 30th 2013, will become one of those days Kim and I will remember as a significant and wonderful day. I made a small
6.15 I am rushing out the door. It is very cold and dark outside, I find myself thinking “why am I doing this...” Why is it not me who is staying in bed, snuggling my little warm angel. On the other hand I am doing exactly what I love to do and I could never stop doing it!
personal diary, filled with the thoughts and goals
6.45 I arrive to the studio. I am immediately
for that day, which I would like to share with you:
sent to make-up, it feels comfortable and safe.
January 30th 2013, the day when the collection is officially presented to the public for the first time, with a grand show in Copenhagen.
For a moment I am feeling like a star. Having your personal make-up artist at 6:45 in the morning, is quite a luxury. But swiftly I am returned to reality as a technician pulls up my
It is 5 o’clock in the morning. My alarm rings,
blouse from behind and says “About time you get
but I have actually been awake a while. I am ex-
some sound” and places a battery on my back
cited about how the day will proceed and hope
and leads the wire under my blouse attaching it
that all those small details will be remembered.
to my bra, in 2 seconds. “Now you are ready!”
I know I am a bit of a perfectionist, but I just
He almost shouts at me, “well Good morning to 7
you” I am thinking, someone is fresh indeed :) Shortly after, I am sitting out in the waiting room talking to their house psychiatrist about the woman ideals, which she is going to discuss on the show. She is surprised when I tell her that a good model to me is one with a great charisma and strong personality. She thought I would prefer that they would just be thin and classically beautiful. We discussed it might be an interesting topic to talk about another time at the studio,
ok with the Great Greenland stand which I am also in charge of. Tomorrow I am having an interview with Chris from Cover for DR, so everything must be just right. I quickly make a few adjustments and hurry out to the Bella Center. I make a quick call to Stine who is show coordinator this day and ask if everything is ok. Everything is running according to schedule. (http://www.cover.dk/blog/benedikte-utzon)
since this issue is important and of great impor-
10:55 I park at the Bella Center. I’m excited to
tance to many young girls with modeling dreams.
see the stand, particularly the gold podium we
7.55 I am finished and on the way home to my mother and Bartholine. I come home to a cozy morning atmosphere and the pleasant smell of fresh coffee. They are still snuggled up in bed, but now it’s into gear! I brush her teeth, braid little braids in her hair, find the missing teddy bear and put her clothes on. 9:00 we are on the way to the kindergarten.
have had built in mosaics. The stand is looking outstanding, but there is something with the mirror which is not quite right, so we fix that. The podium is gorgeous but unfortunately it has black edges, nothing to worry about though, it will be painted over night before the fair starts tomorrow, to keep the peace :) Everything must be perfect. Dorthe (sales
I have promised to draw with the girls as usu-
manager)
al in the kindergarten, but I can feel a creeping
and I have soon left the building again.
sense of stress. I take a deep breath and decide to make this day a good and regular day for her. So I get to draw goblins, princesses and Rapunzel, before I get the world’s biggest bear hug and a delightful kiss. I’m thinking this day can only become a good one with such a great start. Sweet
text
messages
regarding
my
per-
formens in TV are trickling in and I get to read a bit at every red light intersection. 8
10.15 I’m at Gallery to check that everything is
and
I
hang
up
the
collection
12:30 Get a call that all the shoes are missing and nobody knows anything about it.
Cloth-
ing racks are not ordered either. But I remember that they are ordered, so work a bit of magic, and then that is fixed. I know that the shoes were bought by Christian (stylist) so a quick call to him and voila everything is in order.
Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
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Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
13:00 the first group of models show up and a
17:40 The doors open and I run into make-up. I
team of make-up artists from MAC and hair-
check that everything is ok here. As everything is
dressers from L’oreal Professionnel invade the
under control, I sit down in the chair and get my
house. At least it feels a bit like that. In total 19
hair blow dried and get a quick make-up, fresh
make-up artists and 10 hairdressers, with each of
after the morning one, from when I was doing
their little trollies. They are coming from all over
morning TV. The blow-dryer feels like therapy.
the world so suddenly it feels very internation-
Soon I can’t do any more. A quick check that all
al. I chat with the person in charge of the look
Great Greenland girls got their hats sewn on and
and decide that the EST. 1995 look is perfect, but
I make a small adjustment using the scissors.
the Great Greenland look needs to be sharper, so I gather the group in charge for a discussion.
18:15All 34 models lined up. We are just waiting for some important journalists, among others The Chi-
14:00, 16 seaters and 14 dressers show up.
nese ELLE. (http://www.ellechina.com/luxury/
Stine briefs them about their roles today
haute-couture/style/20130205-pic-128932.shtml)
for the day. Uffe comes to me and checks if I’m happy and comfortable with everything.
18:29 est. 1995 is presented for the first time, for the entire world’s press. No time for the obligato-
15:00 I find out that 4 of the models are delayed and
ry champagne before the show, as we are way too
therefore it’s difficult to hold our rehearsal at 16:00.
many backstage. Wolters (choreographer) Chris-
15:30 Technical meeting. Listening to the music for both shows, super cool and we test the premovie to GG show. Everything runs smoothly. I go down and check with Pouline from MAMA vodka, who has already started making 400 amazing cocktails
tian (stylist) and I stand right at the entrance to the catwalk. I check every one of the girls before they enter the catwalk, spending most of the time lying on the floor, pulling down tights so they get the right look. And boom 14 minutes have passed, 37 models have been out, and I suddenly have to go
16.15 The rehearsal is 45 min late. We won’t
in for the final. It would seem absurd if they had
have the time to run it all through, but we
seen me crawling around on the floor moments
are positive that everything is under control.
before, but as I go out I feel the good mood hitting
17.15 The doors should have opened to the public. The Lacquer catwalk is released, goodie bags and name tags placed on the seats. I quickly go through, everything is almost ready.
me like a wave. I receive lots of flowers but I am so focused, I do not register from whom. I curtsy and hurry out again, for the next show Great Greenland. I throw the flowers in the corner, because now it is about the next collection. Don’t 11
even have the time to cry as I usually do, because clothes must be driven over in the showroom, benow I am totally focused on the next show. (http:// cause tomorrow the sales begin and everything www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRavI3rneRE
) needs to be ready. Suddenly we are back in re-
18:49 The film that is crucial for the Great Greenland show, begins. Or it should. Nothing happens. I’m about to panic, as it is vital for the story I want to tell. Uffe calls me over headset and says that it does not start and that we need to drop it. I am begging him to keep trying and just before we give up it starts. Unfortunately with a power shortage, but everyone finds out what it is about:
ality when eventually only Kim and I are left to carry it everything. At 22:05 we have a table reserved at Retour where my little sister Christina and her colleague are waiting for Kim and me. Charlotte Juhl and Kasper from Elle are also there. We talk a bit and everyone is very happy. We get the day’s first meal, talk more and finish the day off. At midnight I am on the way home.
a culture which is dependent on nature, lives for 01:15 prepare clothes for the TV recording nature and with nature. Boom the show starts and in about 7.5 hours. Clean my skin and goodthe models are come in. Animalistic with strong night from me. I am looking forward to the reenergy. Suddenly everything is over. It feels like views tomorrow, I can feel that they are good ... I haven’t been breathing for 25 minutes. And I have to go in again. All alone on the stage. Then I feel the crowds’ reaction. The whole crowd
( http://www.b.dk/mode/saeler-paa-den-smarte-maade; http://olivierish.com/2013/01/31/314/
is standing up and applauding for me. Sudden- 02:20 look at the clock for the last time. The ly I become very small and vulnerable but also alarm is set to 06:20, another night without very happy. Two perfect shows and everyone much sleep. Est.1995 first universe is preare extremely pleased. The place empties out. sented and both Kim and I are beyond happy! 19.05 The day’s final interview is with Russian Vogue who believes we should come to Russia because we could have huge suc-
Kisses and good night from me,
cess there. I am happy, but starting to feel that Benedikte it’s time to talk to Kim and hear what he says. He has seen it all, I have not seen anything. Go out and almost forget that I have promised to make two more TV interviews, so get those done too.The house must be emptied and the 12
Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
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�The first general rehearsel under the coordination of Uffe Buchard and Maria Erwolter - they brief the models about the show.
Sneak an exclusive peak! BACKSTAGE
DAY BEFORE THE SHOW
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Fashion Show Countdown started! The day before the show is one of the most hectic days during fashion-week. The studio of EST.1995 gets busy and filled with models for the final fittings, the walls get decorated with the line-up lists. Stine, the event-coordinator has a great overview. All is under control! 17
The fitting is an important date before the show. Every piece from the new collection hanging neatly on clothes rails, mood boards with sketches and fitting models getting dressed look after look. All the lovely models are very patient and professional trying on countless looks. The fitting is all about choosing looks that fit into the creative concept of the show and represent the main idea of the collection. The concept for the EST.1995 Fashion Show AW2013 is a powerful edgy look while staying sensual and feminine. Final looks are put together, adjustments and stylings are made – deciding which look is going down the runway and which look is not, what is first and what is the closing look according to the show. Benedikte knows exactly how to dress a woman!
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BEHIND THE CURTAINS
Make-up: MAC Hair: L’oreal Professionnel Show Coordinator: Uffe Buchard
Getting ready for the AW13 Show at the ’Gamle Pige Skole’ Borgergade with the MAC crew & L’oreal Professionnel. Make-up, hair, rehearsels, goodie-bags , technical meetings are part of the preparations.
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The MAC cosmetics team is making a romantic sensual look for the models - natural make up with light tones on the eyes, whereas a dramatic edge is achieved by emphasizing the lips with a vivid red. Just right for Benedikte Utzon’s sensual and feminine style. Mette Thorsgaard hairstylist from L’oreal Professionnel is behind the hairlook. The model’s hair gets a natural look with a loose pony tail in the back making the hair easily fall on the shoulders. Such a great look!
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- Backstage of the Autumn/Winter 2013 Show 22
- Backstage of the Autumn/Winter 2013 Show 23
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Benedikte brings life into the old collage on Borgergade 111 - today Copenhagen’s Culture House open for different venues, exhibitions, workshops and conferences. The building is a unique, historical setting for EST.1995’s very first show with the beautifully handcrafted wooden balcony above the catwalk. At this point the guests already started queing outside the front door. Some hectic but exciting minues backstage!
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The catwalk is prepared and dozens of Goodie Bags are nicely lined up for the seated guests among others with Prevage Cream from Elizabeth Arden in them. The beutiful raspberry cocktails with a pure and distinctive taste made by Mama Vodka are lifting the atmosphere to the highest.
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Models are ready. Only a few minutes before the show starts dressers and make-up artists are running crazy around backstage. Uffe Buchard’s assistant, the talented stylist Christian Schleisner, makes some small adjustments on the models; Benedikte doublechecks the clothes are standing properly and LET THE SHOW BEGIN!
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- Backstage of the Autumn/Winter 2013 Show -
- Backstage of the Autumn/Winter 2013 Show -
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� The room fills slowly up with guests. All are excited and curious of the show - in just about a few minutes.
The CATWALK AW13 Collection
The AW 13 Collection has a modern, raw, exclusive and sensual expression featuring beautiful colours and gorgeous qualities. Luxurious lambskin, sheepskin and stretch skin combined with new experimental techniques were to be seen on the catwalk at the ’Gamle Pige Skole’ on Borgergade the 30.th of January during CFW. The Collection is based on the 70’es sense of abundance and the super chic Bond Girl, but with the focus on comfort; a great combination of luxuriouse feminity and functionality. All in all 36 beautiful looks invaded the catwalk showcasing the very first collection of EST.1995 Benedikte Utzon Wardrobe.
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Jersey Top, Bucle Jacket, Lamb Leather Trousers Leather Gloves
Lamb Jacket & Skirt, Stretch Leather Boots, Leather Gloves
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Knitted Rabbit Vest, Jersey Top, Snake Coded Leather Leggings, Long Leather Gloves
Platinum Mink with Blue Fox Sleeves, Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
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Wool Dress, Stretch Leather Boots, Leather Gloves
Coded Lamb Jacket, Stretch Leather Boots, Leaher Gloves
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Jersey T-Shirt, Long Stretch Leather Gloves, Cracked Stretch Leather Skirts
Tulle Dress, Spanish Lamb Jacket
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Printed Silk Top, Platinum Mink Knitted Jacket, Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
Heavy Silk Satin Shirt, Stretch Leather Leggings
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Printed Silk Shirt, Mink Shorts with Python Details, Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
Heavy Silk Satin Dress, Leather Gloves
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Wool Dress, Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
Lamb Leather Jacket , Strtech Leggings, Leather Gloves
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Heavy Silk Blouse, Handpainted Lamb Leather Shorts, Stretch Leather Boots
Silk Blouse, Suede Leggings
Spanish Toscana Leather Coat, Leather Belt, Stretch Leather Boots
Spanish Toscana Leather Jacket, Python Printed Lamb Stretch Leggings, Leather Gloves
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Blue Fox Coat, Jersey Top, Lamb Leather Shorts, Stretch Leather Boots
Tailor-made Dress, ,Long Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
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Cashmere Blouse, Lamb Vest, Stretch Leather Skirt, Suede Boots
Lamb Leather Coat, Suede Boots
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Wool Blouse & Trousers, Long Leather Gloves
Tailor-made Dress, Leather Belt, Long Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
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Silk Blouse, Lamb Leather Trousers, Leather Gloves
Platinum Mink Jacket, Python Gloves, Tailor-made Dress, Stretch Leather Boots
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Knitted Cashmere Dress, Stretch Leather Boots
Cashmere Blouse, Platinum Mink Shorts, Stretch Leather Boots
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Wool Trousers & Wool Jacket
Wool Dress, Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
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Wool Jacket with shorts, Long Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
Lamb Leather with Jersey Blouse, Bucle Skirt, Leather Gloves,Stretch Leather Boots
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Silk Chiffon Dress, Long Leather Gloves
Leather with Jersey Blouse, Wool Skirt, Long Leather Gloves, Stretch Leather Boots
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Tibetan Lamb Coat, Leather Gloves, Coded Glitter Strech Leggings
Silk Dress with Lace, Long Leather Gloves
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Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
Autumn/Winter 2013 Show
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AW SHOW 13 Flash back to the show: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRavI3rneRE
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Throu DESIGNE
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ugh the ER’S EYES
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�I always work a lot with contrasts. This is also very dominating in the fashion world at the moment. Therefor I have selected two images from the show that I believe cover this tendency very well.
Look 1 Here a classic pencil skirt is used that would normally be styled as a more classic look. But in this case I have completed the look with long leather boots, a jersey leather top and leather gloves. This makes it more modern and gives a raw edge. But if a small soft cashmere cardigan is chosen instead, the look immediately becomes more casual. If styled with a suit jacket and a white shirt from the basic collection the whole outfit turns into a feminine business look.
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01. Lamb Leather Blouse with Jersey Sleeves 02. Cashmere Cardigans 03. White Heavy Silk Shirt 04. Wool Jacket with Silk Details 05. Sleeveless Lamb Leather Top with Jersey Details 06. Wool Pencil Skirt 07. Long - armed Stretch Leather Gloves
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08. Heavy Silk Shirt 09. Lamb Leather Jacket 10. Printed Silk Shirt 11. Stretch Leather Leggings 12. Stretch Leather Skirt 13. Stretch Leather Boots 14. Glitter Coded Gloves
Look 2 This set was the opening entrance on our first EST. 1995 show. It is a very significant set that focuses on the body. Overall it is cool, but again if you break it down into pieces you can create new looks. A leather skirt is a classic basic piece - this time in the almost indispensable army green that characterizes the fashion image for the year. This look would also be very nice with some of our beautiful silk blouses. It would still appear rough but not too cute. Overall I would say that women today want to appear sexy raw and feminine, without looking vulgar. I actually do think both set is a very good representative for it. - Benedikte -
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Fashion Fair. Displaying AW13 Collection.
CIFF
The AW 13 Collection of EST.1995 Benedikte Utzon Wardrobe has been displayed with great success at Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) at Bella Center. 31.January - 03.February 2013
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” This time CIFF was a very exciting and different experience for me. Mostly becasue I was newly employed and didn’t know any of the clients I had made an agreement previously. We were so to say overwhelmed as soon as the the fair opened its doors for the buyers having the best stand we could wish for - close to the main entrance. The customers, both the new and the old ones, were extatic and happy for Benedikte Utzon’s big comeback on the fashion scene. The clients , who have been selling Benedikte Utzon in their shops before, have missed her throughout the fall, so it was definitely a big hit that we returned with a wide range of blazers, pants, dresses, etc. All four days were filled with positive experiences and the fair ended up with great deals. ” Dorthe B. Jørgensen
Sales Manager EST.1995 71
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to acknowledge Uffe Buchard from GreenaBuchard, L’oreal Professionals, MAC to whom we are enormously grateful. We are grateful for the beautiful raspberry cocktails to Mama Vodka, and to Elizabeth Arden for the Prevage creams in our goodie bags. We are thankful for the great work of all who assisted making the show such a great success. Thank you all for your continued trust in our company.
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A special thanks to Creative Director: Stylist: Christian Schleisner / Unique Creative Produktion: Rozanna Fritz / Grenaa Buchard Assistent: Cecilie Veneda / Grenaa Buchard DJ: Flip Koreograf: Maria Erwolter Lys & Lyd: Golight Hair: LORÉAL Profesionnel Make up: MAC
A SPECIAL THANKS TO Creative Director: Stylist: Christian Schleisner / Unique Creative Produktion: Rozanna Fritz / Grenaa Buchard Assistent: Cecilie Veneda / Grenaa Buchard DJ: Flip Koreograf: Maria Erwolter Lys & Lyd: Golight Make up: MAC
EST.1995 Lene Haus Vej 21 7430 Ikast DK EST.1995 Showroom: Toldbodgade 89 1253 København K Tlf.: 45 9927 6000 Mail: pr@est1995.dk