Quest Magazine September 2023

Page 1

FALL FASHION ISSUE

CHLOÉ LAZARD AT NOMO SOHO NEW YORK
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CONTENTS

Fall Fashion Issue

92 BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY For our annual fall fashion shoot, we photographed Chloé Lazard at the NoMo SoHo hotel before venturing up to Graff’s Upper East Side salon on Madison Avenue Produced & Written by Brooke Kelly Murray and Elizabeth Meigher, Photographed by Julie Skarratt

104 50 YEARS HAVE PASSED SINCE AMERICANS WON THE FAMOUS FASHION FACE-OFF A retrospective showing some of France’s and America’s most fashionable figures. by Chris Meigher

110 A BEAUTIFUL LIFE IN COLOR Rizzoli’s new book, Colormania: Color and Fashion, presents images featuring photographer Elizaveta Porodina’s signature blurred, painterly style to capture Carolina Herrera’s Resort and Spring 2022 collections in a dreamy, otherworldly light. by Elizabeth Meigher

114 NAME RECOGNITION AT TORY BURCH Tory Burch’s recent move into the luxury handbag segment, with the introduction of another well-named accessory—the Lee Radziwill range of purses—cannot be dismissed as an anomaly. by Robert Janjigian

120 A TRAILBLAZER...AND OH! SHE’S WEARING A BLAZER The Victoria & Albert Museum in London will open an exhibition dedicated to the work of French couturière, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, this September. by Brooke Kelly Murray & MacKenzie Pierce

126 AN HOMAGE TO THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS Assouline’s latest book guides readers on a visual journey through New York City. by Brooke Kelly Murray

92 126 120
114
18 JOBS LANE, SOUTHAMPTON, NY
ASPREY.COM
167 MINI SOFT GRAIN LEATHER GINGER THE CHAOS JEWELLERY COLLECTION
72 CONTENTS Columns 32 SOCIAL DIARY Another month of the social circuit. by David Patrick Columbia 66 HARRY BENSON Our photographer captures Carolina Herrera at home in New York, 1989. 68 TAKI Learn to speak clearly and there are no limits. by Taki Theodoracopulos 70 FRESH FINDS Our favorite fall finds. by Brooke Kelly Murray and Elizabeth Meigher 74 REAL ESTATE The Cregan Team is the #1 small team in Palm Beach. by Brooke Kelly Murray 76 STYLE How to incorporate new trends for fall among the classics. by Janie McGraw Pierrepont 78 AVIATION flyExclusive offers the ideal membership service for those who travel by private jet. 80 ART Reflections of Amalfi and Ischia in August. by Duncan McLaren 82 WEDDINGS A roundup of Quest weddings, from the Northeast to Harbour Island. by Brooke Kelly Murray 90 SOCIAL CALENDAR All of September’s fêtes and philanthropic happenings to look forward to. 132 YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST PYTs partying in the Hamptons. by Brooke Kelly Murray 136 SNAPSHOT Since 1959, Barbie has remained an unparalleled symbol of style. by Brooke Kelly Murray
LINDA HORN info@LindaHorn.com 212. 772.1122 email or call to visit We have Jewelry too! shop the online store at LindaHorn.com

questmag.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

DAVID PATRICK C O LUMBIA

DEPUTY EDITOR

ELIZABETH MEIGHER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

TYKISCHA JACOBS

MANAGING EDITOR

BROOKE KELLY MURRAY

CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER

ROBERT BENDER

PHOTOGRAPHER-AT-LARGE

JULIE SKARRATT

SOCIETY EDITOR

HI LARY GEARY

EDITORIAL INTERN

MACKENZIE PIERCE

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON

JAYNE CHASE

KATE GUBELMANN

TONY HALL

ALEX HITZ

ROBERT JANJIGIAN

RICHARD JOHNSON

KAREN KLOPP

JAMES MACGUIRE

HAVEN PELL

CHUCK PFEIFER

DAISY PRINCE

LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.)

TAKI THEODORACOPULOS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON

CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY

BILLY FARRELL

MARY HILLIARD

CRISTINA MACAYA

CUTTY MCGILL

PATRICK MCMULLAN

NICK MELE

ANNIE WATT

questmag.com

PUBLISHER AND C.E.O.

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ASSISTANT TO THE C.E.O. KATHLEEN SHERIDAN

ACCOUNTING MANAGER LUWAY LU

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ROXANNE UNRATH ext. 106

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HOWARD LORBER

ANDREW SAUNDERS

WILLIAM LIE ZECKENDORF

© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2023. All rights reserved. Vol. 37, No 9.

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exciting month for this bark-eating (“Upstate”) publisher, crisscrossing my way around the Adirondacks, galloping down to Saratoga, and voyaging eastward to Newport ... plus a few other foreign ports. And what I’ve consistently witnessed in these watering holes is a genuine yearning for an America that better reflects the integrity and values of these classic summer haunts, where the Stars & Stripes wave proudly from the front porches of patriotic citizens and generations of family denizens. Somehow, the summer months bring out our inherent national pride and visceral allegiance (may this endure through next Fall’s elections!). Speaking of Autumn, the well versed Quest reader will recognize the closets full of fashion bursting forth from September’s pages ahead. We’ve again leaned on Quest’s versatile crew of stylish editors to produce an issue that overflows with panache - new and old alike - beginning with our devilish covergirl Chloé Lazard, who’s been deftly imaged by our incomparable, and very own Photographer-at-Large, former Aussie supermodel Julie Skarratt.

As you’ve heard me refrain, September is the month of renewal and possibilities, and Labor Day is truly the beginning of a New Yorker’s new year. We begin with Quest’s seasonal fashion feature, exploring the sleek architecture of SoHo’s novel NoMo hotel, while our former covergirl and contributor, Janie Pierrepont, traverses the trendy autumn offerings of quilted jackets, woolen pea coats, and suede boots “designed to last”. Further along, Quest’s learned fashion scribe, Robert Janjigian, critically reports on the status and new direction of Tory Burch and her eponymous brand of almostaffordable accessories - a few now bearing the name and chicness of Jackie’s little sister, Lee. And our Deputy Editor Elizabeth Meigher glowingly reviews Wes Gordon’s Colormania, a recently released volume inspired by the ageless and supremely refined Carolina Herrera - fashion’s recognized queen of hue and palette. Recalls editor Elizabeth M: “When Mrs Herrera flashes her captivating smile, lights get brighter ... and colors become more vivid”. I agree! Even this grateful publisher gets into the September act; on pages 104-109, I salute the 50th anniversary of what’s reverentially known

throughout fashion history as the “Battle of Versailles”, when an unknown American designer team of Blass, Halston, Oscar and Anne Klein bested their far more celebrated French compatriots (Givenchy, Dior, Cardin and Ungaro) in a runway “competition” that’s mythically become the Woodstock of fashion shows. Even the beloved and much missed columnist Bill Cunningham squeakily labeled it: “ ... the most creative show of the 20th Century”. Take a peek at these pages, dear readers, and let me know what you think.

I began this message on a note of excitement and expectation - for the fashion world, for New York, and for our Country. I’m hardly a Pollyanna, and recent overseas travels have sobered my presumption that the world is beating a pathway to our door. Yet, I remain confident that our national hope will be restored. Current dependencies on a benign bureaucracy that unendingly doles out “free stuff” is no longer sustainable, and increasingly more discredited. Our ethical compass is resetting, and individual initiative, family focus and church-going are seeping back into everyday lives. Despite the threats of divisive complacency, global downturns and foreign aggression, the future again will be America’s. ◆

Chris Meigher

ON THE COVER:

Chloé Lazard in the Tunnel of Love at the NoMo SoHo hotel. She wears a coat by Carolina Herrera ($2,890), Polo Ralph Lauren’s Leather Riding Boots ($698), and jewelry by Wempe.

Photographed by Julie Skarratt.

30 QUEST PUBLISHER’S LETTER
Clockwise from bottom left: Janie McGraw Pierrepont; contributor Robert Janjigian; Carolina Herrera, photographed by Harry Benson; The Corner Deli in SoHo; Julie Skarratt shooting behind the scenes at the NoMo SoHo; Barbie by Dior, 1997; Hélène de Rothschild and Princess Grace at the “Battle of Versailles”, 1973.
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David Patrick Columbia NEW YORK SO CIAL DIARY

SEPTEMBER IS FASHION

month in New York. Or it was for a few decades. I was introduced to it—as an observer/ reporter—in the early ’90s here in New York. I had always followed it vaguely in the media. But it had become a source and a story for this writer.

That was when the majority of the fashion shows and all of the major fashion designers’ collections were held in massive tents set up on the edge of Bryant Park behind the New York Public Library on Sixth Avenue and 42nd Street.

It was a glamorous affair

placed strategically right out on the avenue—where even the public passing by in cars and buses would get the (public relations) activity. That was the point. And it drew crowds, even if only for people watching. As well as the rich, the chic, and the shameless who

made a point of being in attendance. And often in costume for it.

It was brilliant marketing with allure, like the very fashions presented under the tents. It was a simple idea that one could imagine continuing for decades. It was Com-

32 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
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mon Sense. It predicted The Look for American women for the new season—that also being the Social Season in New York. It predicted “how they’d (potentially) feel” about themselves. Hence the saying: clothes make the man; they elevate the woman.

Most of the major American designers whose influence was great in the last half of the 20th century have since passed on with age. And too, gone are many of their best customers whose influence was powerful also. As it is with many things in 21st century life, it has been replaced by the Cell Phone.

Fashion per se, remains a powerful voice of recognition. It is, after all, how we see ourselves; or wish to see ourselves in relationship to our worlds.

But 20 years into the new century, the costume has changed … even radically, with the times. Or the times, with the costume. Gone is the formality. Same thing happened when the 19th century turned into the 20th. The skirt hem which for centuries had been floor length, went up to the knee.

Whereas our parents and great-grandparents dressed formally whenever going out in the world – coat/hat/suit/ lace-up (and polished) shoes. This was for everybody. Now,

more and more we wear less and less.

Today the uniform is sneakers or some design thereof, either lace-up or slip-on, with thick rubber soles in a variety of colors, single or multiple. Men’s pants are cotton or denim; the shirts mainly pullovers or tees. Dress-up is cotton khakis or mainly jeans and tees, turtlenecks, all looking well-worn (and even dirty many times). Suit jackets are fading out and so too the necktie still on the tie-rack in the closet.

Younger women are wearing

less, covering less. The skirts are often very short, or just short-shorts and the tops featuring cleavage that looks like it’s just barely covering what might spill out. This idea isn’t anything new fashion-wise. Movie stars and cleavage have been a big ticket seller for decades; that was the point: selling sex.

The Fashion now is entirely personal Attitude. Its definition is often found in the accompanying tattoos that are now mass-accumulating and decorating all parts of the body. This includes many women, even beautiful women.

It is a personal, even intimate statement bordering on conformity. But it is so widely expressed that it is normal self-expression at this mo-

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 34 QUEST
RUTA SMITH
Ralph Lauren at the end of his runway show, 1998 ALA VON AUERSPERG'S COCKTAIL PARTY IN CHARLESTON Brianna Martinelli, Taylor Materio and Emily Shiffer Chris Hitopoulos Lisa Pontius, Shaniequa Washington and Rebecca Szmidt Julie Bolling, Julie Justice and Michelle Edwards Holland Lloyd and Michelle Murdoch Julie Hubert Katie Tashjian and Erin Vaux

ment in our history. That is what Fashion is basically, and where it goes. It tells us about ourselves.

Then there is the tattoo as an accompanying ornamentation like jewelry. For generations it has been a male thing. Not anymore. Now it is an accessory but a permanent one. It will go out of fashion too, permanent or not; as that is its nature. The tattoos remain a mark of the time of an entire current generation.

In a little more than a century – a short time in the history of things – fashion has gone from covering everything up, both male and female, from head to toe, to removing almost all covering. Once upon a time, fashion was important in seeking power for both men

and women.

Before the 20th century, women’s power in the world came from the roles they played. Our favorite example, the Mrs. Astor dressed for all occasions publicly. She liked a lot of diamonds gracing her physical presence. It naturally spoke well of her husband also, even though he was rarely present or even nearby.

Nevertheless, this is New York and the Fashion beat goes on.

Thinking about the times now past, and the woman who made their way “fashionably,” led me to thinking about

Pamela Harriman. In the world of what used to be called Society, long before she became a magazine cover girl, Mrs. Harriman was famous to the world because she was the daughter of the 11th Baron Digby. During the Second World War at age 19, she married Winston Churchill’s only son, Randolph. During the war, she lived with her fatherin-law and mother-in-law putting her at the center of international history of that time.

She was a charmer, especially around men, and said to be a favorite of the Prime Minister,

which gave her additional entry into the world of power and money. In retrospect you can see that it set her up in a life surrounded always by money and power on an international scale. Such “progress” was the kind of achievement recognized in that world.

After the war ended, now age 25, mother of a young son named for his grandfather, she divorced Randolph Churchill who was famously difficult, likely a product of the Famous Father syndrome. During those days with her in-laws, however, she’d come to know many prominent and wealthy men, including Americans like Averell Harriman and Jock Whitney and William Paley, all of whom liked her very very much.

36 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
Pamela Harriman SWAINE CELEBRATES FLAGSHIP STORE OPENING IN LONDON Lady Amelia Spencer Mark Ebulue and Rayer Van-Ristell Alistair Guy Lady Eliza Spencer Katy Wickremesinghe Pips Taylor
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who, working for CBS radio on war coverage, fell in love with her and was going to divorce his wife after the war. It turned out that Mrs. Murrow was pregnant with child and so he stayed on (forever).

However, Pamela Churchill left them all happy to have met her, moved to showering her with gifts and even “trust funds.” She was looked after financially from the earliest days of the war when Americans were in London “serving.” A goodlooking young woman in her early 20s, she was smart, sophisticated, and interested in what was going on in the world of power and money or what we call politics.

Had she not been born an Earl’s daughter, her romantic

career might not have been as fruitful. Although she had that secret ingredient: charm. If you have enough of that and are clear thinking, it can be profitable; and she lived like a woman of means, as you might expect of an Earl’s daughter.

Freed from her marriage, there were serious liaisons with a major French Rothschild, and an occasional close friend of several very prominent (often rich) men on the international stage. All of whom were married. Throughout her liaisons, she was not some divorcee newly single. She was widely accept-

ed; and possessing the natural air of aristocracy, and thus invited in the world of Power and Finance and Society, as well as by the Wives of those men who counted.

I first became aware of her when most Americans might have. She was Pamela Churchill married to Leland Hayward, an enormously successful talent agent, film producer and Broadway producer (2 of his hit shows that opened the same year: “Gypsy” and “South Pacific”).

This was a new time for her. Those romantic liaisons that she had in Paris were never

with an “I do.” She might have thought she was going to marry a couple of the tycoons who were after her by the late 1940s showering her with jewels and money. But no marriages ended because of her.

She liked jewels/jewelry. Among her souvenirs, she was given-having asked specifically for-a diamond and emerald bracelet, a gift of a famous French duke. It was her design and took awhile. Completed, receiving it she introduced it by wearing it for the man in her life. Having shown, she then took it back to the jeweler and asked for it to be copied but entirely fake. They did. She then sold the original off to someone interested, and made a few hun-

38 QUEST
Terri Cain, Debbie Jelinek and Anne McNulty
DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA LAURIE RICHARDS
Leland Hayward LUNCHEON AT CASA TUA IN ASPEN Jacqui and Patsy Tisch Robin Smith and Soledad Hurst Carrie Wells and Lori Gendelman Kitzia Goodman Candace Stark and Kimberly Paige Bluhm Christy Ferer and Donna Slade Kristen Lambert and Tracey Cheatham

dred thousand dollars.

She’d lived well and elegantly in Paris, London, New York. Her affairs could run on forever before they’d leave their wives. Arriving at age 40 in 1960, still unmarried, she turned the page. She married an American-Leland Hayward-who had been previously married to Slim Keith The marriage lasted until Hayward’s death 11 years later when Pamela was 51.

I first heard about her personally through a friend of mine, Leland Hayward’s daughter Brooke who had a very clear memory of the first time she met Pamela. It was a summer day, in 1960. Leland Hayward had left his wife Slim for Pamela, and although not

yet divorced, was living with her in a house in Bedford that he’d rented from Irene Selznick, the younger daughter of Louis B. Mayer, ex-wife of David Selznick, and producer of “Streetcar Named Desire.”

Brooke was at the time dating a man named Jones Harris, son of actress Ruth Gordon and Broadway producer Jed Harris They’d gone up to Bedford that day to visit Brooke’s father … and especially to meet his new amour. Brooke knew very little about her except of course that she had been married to Winston Churchill’s

only son Randolph.

When they arrived at the Selznick house, an MGM-perfect rambling clapboard and shutters replica of a New England cottage (but sprawling) surrounded by forests and bordered by the Mianus River which flows through the town, Brooke was told by a member of the staff that her father and Mrs. Churchill were out by the pool on the other side of the house.

When they got out to the pool, a big pool, there was Leland in his bathing suit sunning himself on a lounge, reading the Herald-Tribune, and across

the pool, on the diving board, there was Pamela standing on the tip, with a touch of Venus, entirely nude, almost modesty abandoned, “the skin whiter than your shirt” (the shirt I was wearing at lunch when Brooke told me the story).

“White, white … and she had red hair, reddish auburn, and the brightest red … between her legs … and big red nipples and white white breasts.”

Brooke was shocked but moreso because Mrs. Churchill wasn’t at all abashed by her own presence in meeting her new boyfriend’s daughter. Later when Brooke asked her father about it, he told her that Pamela often did that.

He told her about the time on a yacht in the Mediterra-

40 QUEST
DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
TIM LOBDELL
Slim Keith Susan and Hunter Cushing Vickie Johnston, Christina and Brian Flaherty, Robin and Rubin Jeffery Max Ansbacher, Lynn Tishman and Missy Chilton Bill Dye and Bill Johnston SALVATION ARMY OF PALM BEACH'S TIKI PARTY IN QUOGUE John Regan and Michele Heary Beatty Cramer and Joan Parker

nean with Pamela, and while everyone was dressed for the Sun and the cruise, Pamela midday would be wearing only her birthday suit. It had a lot of appeal and evidently did not disappoint.

Postcript. It was during the Hayward marriage that Leland’s daughter Bridget committed suicide. This was a second incident in the family, the first being her mother Margaret Sullavan who took her own life in 1960.

Brooke and Bridget were close. Bridget lived an apartment in the East 60s. She had safe where Brooke kept a pearl necklace that her mother had left her. The pearls had been collected over the years by her

mother, were very valuable and always intended to be Brooke’s. It needed to be stored highly secured, and Bridget had persuaded Brooke to keep it in her safe – for which Brooke had the serial number to unlock.

A couple of days after Bridget’s death, Pamela, then still married to Leland, called Brooke about Bridget’s safe and did she have the serial numbers to unlock it. The two women met the next day as Brooke also had a key to Bridget’s apartment.

Pamela opening the safe

took place easily with Brooke’s numbers and there was the rope of pearls. In their perfect lustrous condition. Pamela was impressed. Immediately she persuaded Brooke that the pearls should be kept locked up in a safe, and suggested she take them and lock them up with her own collections which were several special drawers under lock and key. And so it was.

When Brooke much later asked for the pearls, Pamela didn’t have them; knew nothing about them. They weren’t there and never were discov-

ered. That was the last Brooke ever had to do with her former stepmother.

How one story leads to another in the development of the life. Well-born, same with first marriage, but no money yet a fortune’s worth of “connections” at the very top. She also had a special allure, meaning attractiveness on several levels. As she grew older she had a reputation for “seducing” men with her charm.

She also lived high, wide and handsome, especially after marrying Averell Harriman.

Recalling the stories which have come to me years after Brooke’s loss-in the early ’90s-I was working on a project about the Cushing sisters:

42 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
Margaret Sullavan PATRICK MCMULLAN; IRIS SAGITTA ANNUAL RACE OF HOPE IN SOUTHAMPTON Grier Henchy and Brooke Shields Starting line Roberto Jack Benabib, Samantha Gregory, Caroline Benabib and Peter and Jamee Gregory Martin and Audrey Gruss Elyce Arons Jordan Daniel Janna Bullock

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Babe Paley, Betsey Whitney, and Minnie Astor. Living in Los Angeles at the time, I’d come to New York to interview Kitty Carlisle Hart on a snowy January Saturday in New York.

My appointment was in the late morning. Mrs. Hart who lived in a large co-op on 64th Street and Madison Avenue, led me into her “library.” We were just about to sit down when a woman suddenly came into the room: dark-haired, older, bright-faced, wearing a well-tailored brown tweed sports jacket, green turtleneck sweater and a dark skirt, and black stockings and shoes. And good legs.

At first she looked familiar although I couldn’t place her. But in seconds I realized it was Mrs. Harriman. I soon learned she had come up from Wash-

ington the day before to attend an opera at the Met; and had stayed overnight as a guest of Kitty. She’d come in to say thank you and good-bye.

I’d never seen her in the flesh but only in photos. She was smaller in real life and more attractive; probably no more than five-six. She looked younger than her photographs, and as smartly turned out casually; and gra cious. After expressing her thanks to her hostess, she had to use the phone which was there in the room.

We stood and waited; a cou ple of minutes only. Then, fin ished she came up to us again,

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 44 QUEST
Kitty Carlisle Hart Gillian Coyne, Catherine Coyne and Mary Ellen Coyne Pat Droesch Liz Reilly and Peggy Dillmeier J.MCLAUGHLIN'S TRUNK SHOW IN QUOGUE
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What To Collect Now: Antiques Are Back

It’s in with the old. Antiques are back in favor in the design world.

And because they are one-of-one and not made in multiples, their scarcity makes them coveted. I’ve long included antique pieces in the spaces I’ve designed for a truly personal look. Trends come and go, and this time around, we are mixing in these pieces with more contemporary finds for a fresh look.

American Antiques

From Windsor chairs to Federal Style beds, American antiques are making a comeback. Not only do they feel familiar and comforting, but their strong silhouettes also provide visual interest with their shapely forms, especially when used sparingly. Paired with bold colors, they make a graphic statement.

Antique Blanket Chests

With an uptick in traditional furniture over the past few years, ornate chests from every era are highly sought after. Look for Swedish-painted pieces and brightly colored Eastern European marriage chests featuring depictions of charming flowers and birds. These can be used at the foot of the bed, or as coffee tables.

Turkish Rugs

Unlike the rich reds and jewel tones that come to mind, large Turkish rugs with soft or unusual coloring are in demand. Vibrant or muted, we love to layer them into our designs. Try pairing them with a smaller pattern, like an animal print, for maximum impact.

The hunt takes time. Scouring antique shops and online marketplaces requires patience and persistence. But keep at it, because the pursuit is well worth it to discover pieces you love.

more about whatever that was like. It turned out that he worked in a part of the White House that was not near the President’s offices, so he rarely saw Clinton. He did tell me that those around that office kept count of how many times they “saw” the President in the course of a day. The higher the count, of course, told you everything.

Then the man told me he had been transferred from his job at the White House to the American Embassy in Paris. Under Mrs. Harriman (who was then Clinton’s Ambassador to France). I asked the man how he liked Mrs. Harriman.

His facial expression suddenly became taut: “Evil!” he said, almost under his breath.

“How?” I asked.

“Evil,” he repeated very seriously, “the most evil person I’ve ever known.” Whatever it was that affected him, it was profoundly powerful.

It was a cocktail party; that was the end of our conversation. I was left with the sharp expression on his face. I can’t imagine what that “evil” would be. As charming as she could be, there was easily a harsher side of a strong personality naturally motivated to have things her way.

However, back to Pamela Harriman, a woman of (and with a) history. When she died, I received an email from a reader about his personal experience(s) with the lady. This correspondent is known for his clear eye...

“Loved Pamela … I was willingly roped into her world when we opened our business in Middleburg, where she kept a beautiful weekend Estate home with “The Governor” … she enjoyed having some equestrian buddies and single men around for weekend brunches and cocktails …

“On more than one occasion I tried to converse with Governor Harriman who

44 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 1
William Averell Harriman
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PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF NEWPORT'S DINNER DANCE

7 1 4 2 48 QUEST DAVE AND ANDREA HANSEN/COURTESY OF THE PRESERVATION SOCIETY OF NEWPORT COUNTY
6
5
1. Mary Katherine and Diana Prince 2. Sue and Dwight Sipprelle 3. Nick Mele with Meredith and Patrick Wood Prince 4. Meg Steiner, Trudy Coxe and Bettie Pardee 5. Sherri and Mark Brice 6. Sherri and Jack Grace 7. Mark Taber, Dana Schmaltz, Tara Flynn and Kate Enroth 8. Anne and David Ford, Jr. 9. Mark and Evelina Taber with Dina and Kevin Quirk
9
1 3 9 2 6
1. Belinda Kielland and Walter Glennon 2. Bill and Elizabeth Kahane 3. Leslie and Mark Hull 4. Felicity Jones and Elizabeth McMillen 5. David Thalmann and Dede Wilsey 6. Philip and Bonnie Cabaud with Sherri Crichton 7. Eaddo and Peter Kiernan 8. Doug and Meg Braff with Christine and Stephen Schwarzman
4 5 7 8
9. Duncan and Barbara Chapman with Ellen and Michael Merriman

was deaf as a bat … she had to yell at him across the dining table as he cupped his hand to his ear … she liked to have one or two of us fellows to swim in the covered dome pool with him, so he didn’t drown. Naked as a Jay Bird, we had to follow suit (less).

“She had the most amazing eyes … mesmerizing … and porcelain skin … she could charm men of all persuasions, dogs, horses, and chickens … but she sure riled up the women … it’s said that Mrs. Mellon and Mrs. Onassis loathed her and never would allow her into their Upperville circle … yet they all had their own ‘feminine mystique,’ catnip to rich men and lovers with deep pockets  … I think they were jealous that Pam could play the game better.

“I remember most every Friday afternoon, the big Cadillac with the New York license plate 5 (former Governor) turning the corner by the Red Fox Tavern, coming out from Georgetown for the weekend  … Pam would be at the wheel, Ave strapped into the passenger seat … he was lucky, she was lucky … I’m not sure it was Love, but it was better than most will ever know.”

Meanwhile back to Summer in the city. It was its quiet self. Although out-of-town is where the action was and drawing the crowds. The 27th Newport Flower Show, for example, drew thousands of visi-

tors during the weekend. Newport is a beautiful and interesting but small coastal city with a population of 25,000 or so. “Thousands” indicates they had a lot of visitors from elsewhere.

This was also first time in a quarter century that it was held at Marble House (1892), the Gilded Age jewel inspired by the Alva Vanderbilt ’s idea of the Petit Trianon of Versailles.

The show’s usual location is Rosecliff, another stately seaside palace (built about 10 years after) owned by another heiress, Tessie Fair Oelrichs, whose father was a partner in

the Comstock Lode, the first major silver lode discovered in Nevada in 1860. The Flower Show’s annual has usually been held there, but this year it has been undergoing extensive restoration work and will remain closed to the public until September.

Newport still retains its glittering history of a century ago thanks to the preservation of the architecture of that era and its relationship to America’s booming 19th and early 20th century.

A sellout crowd flocked to The Opening Night Reception. It’s the event that signals the start of the Newport summer season. Hundreds mingled under clear skies on the oceanside back lawn of Marble House, enjoying cocktails, as well as cuisine from a variety of sta-

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 50 QUEST
Tessie Fair Oelrichs ANNUAL NANTUCKET BY DESIGN WEEKEND Olivia Charney and Michael Mitchell Martina Mondadori Kelly Williams, Stacey Bewkes and Michelle Holland Wambui Ippolito, Stacey Stuart and Stacey Bewkes Mark Donato and Beth English Ashley Hicks

tions, live music and a lifestyle marketplace for shopping.

Rhode Island Governor Daniel J. McKee and First Lady Susan McKee were present making the rounds throughout the evening. There was a special ceremony held to honor chairman and CEO of Bartlett Tree Experts which was the presenting sponsor of the Newport Flower Show and a longtime supporter of the Preservation Society.

The event was chaired once again by Pat Fernandez. The Show took its name and inspiration from “The Grand Tour,” that 19th century tour that becme a Gilded Age tradition of an extended voyage. They provided the opportunity to immerse one’s imagination into the art

and culture of Europe, and re-creating the environment.

It was worth the trip for the shows visitors. They experienced a colorful and beautiful voyage through the floral world, all within the spectacular rooms and back terrace of Alva Vanderbilt’s palace, as well as The Chinese Tea House she had built on the grounds of this famous Newport landmark.

Highlights included Creative Mixed Planters interpreting such iconic destinations as Versailles, the Alps and Venice

and Botanical Arts that showcased intricate objects and jewelry created from dried plant materials. No one was disappointed in this show.

All proceeds from the Newport Flower Show benefit The Preservation Society of Newport County-a nonprofit organization accredited by the American Alliance of Museums.

It is dedicated to preserving and interpreting the area’s historic architecture, landscapes, decorative arts and social history. Its 11 historic proper-

ties-seven of them National Historic Landmarks-span more than 250 years of American architectural and social development. Visit NewportMansions.org for more information.

Meanwhile, out in East Hampton, a Preview Benefit Cocktail Party for the 2023 East Hampton Antiques & Design Show was held on the beautiful, historic grounds of Mulford Farm in the heart of East Hampton Village.

Guests had the opportunity to meet the dynamic Honorary Chair  Liz Lange, American fashion designer, entrepreneur, author, podcast host, youname-it. She is also most interestingly the current owner of the fabled Grey Gardens estate in East Hampton.

DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 52 QUEST
Marble House in Newport WATERMILL CENTER'S SUMMER BENEFIT Consueo Vanderbilt Kim Charlton Anastasiya Siro Lisa Perry
BFA
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Meanwhile, guests of the evening enjoyed an early buying opportunity of the impressive array of antiques, art, jewelry, timelessly chic furniture, accessories, and collectibles. Ticket proceeds benefited the East Hampton Historical Society.

Guests included  Aerin Lauder, Richard and Lauren DuPont, Jenny Landey, Laura Doyle, Katharine Rayner, Annette Cumming, Mike Clifford and Robert Levy. The design community came out in full force, including  David Netto, Stephen Sills Scott Sanders, Marshall Watson, Tom Scheerer, Steven Gambrel, David Kleinberg, Tom Samet and Nathan Wold

East Hampton Historical Society Trustees attended, including  Debbie Druker (Event Chair), James Blauvelt, Paige Daly, Andrew Davis, Dorian Fuhrman, Arthur “Tiger” Graham, Lys Marigold, Jackie Mitchell, Frank Newbold, Coco Shean and Executive Director Steve Long

The Antiques & Design Show continued on through Saturday and Sunday, with surprise visits from  Joy Behar, Christie Brinkley, Jill Rappaport, and Alan Patricof!

Now in its 17th year, the East Hampton Antiques & Design Show is widely recognized as the premier antiques & design event on

eastern Long Island, a highlight of the East Hampton arts and social calendar.

More than 50 top art and antique dealers participated, with a diverse selection of rare and unique items for the home and garden. More than 1,500 visitors attended. The 2023 East Hampton Antiques & Design Show was made possible in part by the generous support of Ralph Lauren, Veranda , and Landscape Details. It was managed by Green Tree Events.

The weekend before, Jean and Martin Shafiroff entertained guests at their home in Southampton to celebrate the launch of the fundraising season of the Southampton Hospital Foundation.

Among the guests were:  Fern Mallis, Candace Bushnell; the owner of the Colony Hotel in Palm Beach  Sarah Wetenhall  with her daughter Amelia; Media Takeout CEO Fred Mwangaguhunga and wife  Notoya; former Real Housewives of New York City member  Ramona Singer; Hospital trustees were out in force, including  Ladd Willis with his wife Cindy, John Wambold with his wife Melanie, Laura Lofaro Freeman with her husband Jim, Alan Glatt with his wife Barbara and Elena Ford and Mitch Seldin Artist and board member  J. Oscar Molina  chatted with fellow artist Patti Grabel ◆

54 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
GUILD HALL'S SUMMER GALA IN EAST HAMPTON Patsy and Jeff Tarr Bonnie Lautenberg and Steve Leber with Pam and Ed Pantzer Kathy Prounis, Anne Chaisson and Kat O'Neill Andrea Grover, Stewart Lane and Bonnie Comley Marty Cohen, Barbara Tober and Llewellyn Sanchez-Werner
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00 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
PARRISH ART MUSEUM’S MIDSUMMER DINNER IN WATER MILL Gale and Ira Drukier Alex Guarnaschelli and Karen Mullane Corinne Erni, Robert Wilson and Katharina Otto-Berstein Martha McLanahan Inga Maren Otto, Robert Wilson Sam Moyer Nina Yankowitz and Barry Holden Jennifer Wright
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60 QUEST DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA
Campion and Tatiana Platt Kathy Reilly Annie Falk, Catherine Carey and Polly Onet Robin Baker Leacock and Michele Heary Philip Isles and Bridget Marks Lauren Roberts and Harrison Morgan
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DAVID PATRICK COLUMBIA 64 QUEST
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IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY

LOOKING FOR the right photograph for this month’s issue on fashion, I came across a one which I love, of the elegant Carolina Herrera with her beautiful, fluffy cat taken in her New York home in 1989. And happily Quest ’s head honcho, the ineffable Chris Meigher, agreed.

Carolina, along with her talented husband, Reinaldo, is of course a major, major force in the fashion industry. Carolina is also a wonderful mother to her children.

A point to note: Gigi remembers when our daughter, Wendy, was at school with young Carolina. Gigi was asked to come up with an idea for a fundraiser for their grade. Immediately Gigi called Carolina, who graciously

and without hesitation delivered a fullblown, amazing, runway show of her latest collection, models and all—all in the school’s auditorium on a portable runway, also courtesy of Carolina’s generosity. Needless to say it was a ‘first ever’ and a huge success; a major coup for both Gigi and Carolina.

Over the years, I have photographed Carolina several times, and she has always been the most gracious, elegant, and obliging person… it is deep within her personality.

And one last note. Gigi was delighted when Carolina wore a stunning short white dress as she married Renaldo in 1968—very similar to the one Gigi wore when we got married a year earlier! u

HARRY BENSON 66 QUEST
BENSON
HARRY
Carolina Herrera at home in New York City, 1989. Photographed by Harry Benson.
SEPTEMBER 2023 67

I AM WRITING this dispatch from the birthplace of “oracy,” the art of public speaking first perfected by the Athenian Demosthenes, a speaker so eloquent and influential he managed to force the great Aristotle to move back to Macedonia, his birthplace. Demosthenes did not like nor trust northern Greeks like Aristotle and his pupil, one Alexander the Great, the same distrust that many Ameri-

A MATTER OF SPEAKING

can Southerners felt for the interfering Northerners circa 1861.

Oracy, needless to say, is a skill equal to numeracy and literacy, one mastered at school in my day but, judging by today’s public speakers, no longer taught at any level. Only last week, sitting in a London café, I took out my notebook while three attractive American young women babbled away nonstop. I felt a bit like

Henry Higgins in Shaw’s Pygmalion taking down Eliza Doolittle’s cockney outbursts. One of the three women noticed what I was doing and asked me rather coldly why. “I’m counting the times you’re using the word ‘like,’” I answered her. I did not dare tell her I was a linguist—which I am not—because they might have called the fuzz thinking that a linguist is some kind of sexual pervert. Never mind.

00 QUEST PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE TAKI
HERO IMAGES INC, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF THE NY CARLSBERG GLYPTOTEK, COPENHAGEN
Clockwise from left: The Lawrenceville School; marble statue of Demosthenes; students in debate class.

Let’s get back to oracy and the beauty of eloquent speech.

The great Tom Wolfe once wrote, while reviewing a collection of my writings, that Americans cannot compete with the Brits in public speaking because the latter are examined orally in class, whereas the Yankees write it down. It made sense. Educated Englishmen are above anything else very good speakers. Americans can be, like, like, you know, like…you know, and so on.

When I look back at my youth and my education at an American private school for boys, public speaking was a popular subject taken even by “jocks” like myself anxious to avoid science,

In today’s climate, good speech is a negative, especially if the f-word is left unsaid. It is also dangerous for teachers to teach things pupils might not relate to. Worst of all, of course, is the invention of trigger warnings, a system that allows students to remain as dumb or even dumber by doing away with all difficult subjects—like Shakespeare, for example. Ditto safe spaces, another invention by the woke mob for a student to remain uneducated and stupider than when he or she arrived at school.

It all has to do with elitism, the kind practiced by ghastly lefties who write lies for  The New York Times and spread nonsense when reporting the news on

mumble on cue. When was the last time you heard and understood every word pronounced in a recently made movie? The inability to speak well was once upon a time a great hurdle to overcome. Yes, it was unfair, because not everyone could afford to send their children to a posh school where they learned to speak clearly and get their ideas across. But in today’s schools, pupils are taught that speaking properly is elitist and snobby and not with the times.

British society was always separated by the way Brits spoke. It is still split, but the other way round. A posh accent today is suspect when applying for a job, a working-class or regional accent is the

math, and other difficult majors. In class we had to read aloud poems or passages of literature, and at times we had to read a speech written by our own little old selves. Captains of sports had to review the year and their individual sport at the end of each term in front of the whole school, and public speaking came in handy then because “jocks” on scholarships were notoriously inarticulate, as they remain to this day.

Needless to say, the debating society was crawling with wimps who preferred to jaw rather than fight, but looking back, my sore soccer knees and numerously operated-on wrestling shoulders convince me that the wimps were smart and we, the jocks, were the dumb ones.

television. This warped and degenerate elitism wants the scope of teaching to be narrowed, for high standards of word use, elocution, and presentation to be done away with and replaced by “ordinary” speech—in other words, dumbed down to the level of the uneducated.

Let’s put it another way. When was the last time you saw a movie where the hero spoke well, like an aristocrat? If you watch TCM, you hear William Powell, Cary Grant, Myrna Loy, Grace Kelly, Herbert Marshall, Bette Davis, Ronald Colman, and others like them articulate and pronounce their words beautifully. In today’s films, a proper accent usually means the person is up to no good, a phony and a crook. And today’s actors

winning ticket. America never suffered from such class distinctions, and regional accents are a joy, at least for this writer, who loves Southern drawls. But an extreme regional accent does not exclude oracy, and great American public speakers in the past all had accents of their birthplace.

F—ing this and f—ing that have become the lingua franca of today’s celebrities. Needless to say, all this f—ing does is show how limited in brain power these freaks really are. Masters of the devastating retort these inarticulate vulgarians are not. Learn to speak clearly and there are no limits. u

For more Taki, visit takimag.com.

MAY 2023 00 PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE TAKI
SEPTEMBER
JIM
From left: Tom Wolfe, 1997; Eton College students; Cary Grant, circa 1940. COOPER/AP/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; REUTERS/EDDIE KEOGH

QUEST Fresh Finds

SEPTEMBER IS here, and a busy social season in the city is upon us. For our Fashion Issue, we checked in with our favorite labels for the best apparel, jewelry, and accessories that will have you looking chic for any occasion this fall.

The award-winning SNOWFLAKES Leaf pendant by TAMARA COMOLLI with its sparkling 2ct white diamonds and brilliant-cut pink sapphires in various shades on the back is set in precious 18k rose gold. An elegant, classy design for all occasions. $25,300 at tamaracomolli.com.

Featuring subtle elegance, cool understatement, and a toy touch of sportiness, Wempe’s Blu Crossover Ring BY KIM in 18k rose gold is the perfect everyday piece. $4,395 at wempe.com.

Oscar de la Renta’s Strapless Feathered Embroidered Mini Dress. $6,990 at oscardelarenta.com. Ralph Lauren Collection’s new RL 888 Crossbody. $2,700 at ralphlauren.com.

Barton & Gray Mariners Club offers an assortment of membership options from “all-you-can-yacht” to “bite-sizedboating.” Members enjoy a lifetime of yachting with the ability to adjust their membership and take advantage of the ever expanding harbors and new yachts being added to the club. For more information, visit bartonandgray.com.

One of Barbour’s best-selling jackets season after season, the Classic Bedale features a zip-front style with snap-front placket, two roomy front flap pockets with snap closures, two hand-warming pockets, and a corduroy collar. $398 at tnuck.com.

Featuring a framed bottom compartment and a soft top apartment, T. Anthony’s Large Wheeled Duffle is ideal for long trips or traveling with the family. $1,650 at tanthony.com.

Featuring a 39 mm case in 18 kt yellow gold with an alligator leather strap, Rolex’s Perpetual 1908 is a new model for 2023. $22,000 at rolex.com.

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Stubbs & Wootton’s Palampore Mink Slippers in tan. $650 at stubbsandwootton.com. The 2024 BMW i5: Experience 100% Electric Performance That Captivates From Start To Finish In The BMW i5. Athletic Aesthetics. Dominating Performance. Ultimate Driving Machine. Order yours now at BramanBMW.com.

Fresh Finds

Tucked away on quiet South Summer Street in Edgartown village, The Charlotte Inn in Martha’s Vineyard is exquisitely appointed with fine art, English antiques, luxurious linens, and fresh flowers-a romantic reflection of a bygone era. Visit thecharotteinn.com.

Ala von Auersperg’s Keaton Italian Stretch Blouse in Khaki. $475 at alavonauersperg.com.

Zimmermann’s Luminosity Denim Fitted Jacket in Briny Blue, Lyrical Lace Midi Skirt in Sunny Nook Print, Luminosity Satin Wadded Jacket in Macadamia, Zimmermann Duncan Low Boots 45 in Burgundy and Austral Huggie in gold/green, Austral Draped Huggie in gold. Visit zimmermann.com.

Bagatelle 100% cotton print in Indigo, Gil Walsh Collection. Taking its cue from the sea, this swirling, watery blue and white print evokes soothing calm vibes. Visit gwifl.com.

Perfect for business or leisure, Asprey’s 1781 Bucket Mini in black soft grain leather is a chic understated day or evening bag.

It features many signature Asprey details: front belt with window & clasp closure, slim side profile, handcrafted top handle & top flap closure. $2,700 at asprey.com.

Elizabeth Gage’s stylish 18ct yellow gold tapered Templar ring featuring an oval faceted aquamarine (2.94cts) to the centre, with a gold shield-shaped plinth surround. The ring is beautifully decorated with narrow stripes of matching blue enamel to the sides. The ring is finished with Elizabeth’s signature wire-twist-wire edging. $15,840 at elizabeth-gage.com.

72 QUEST

Alexander McQueen’s Women’s Funnel

Neck Knit Jumper in black ($1,690) and Broken Pinstripe

Pencil Skirt in black/ ivory ($1,490). Visit alexandermcqueen.com.

Van Cleef & Arpels 1950s Diamond Lotus Flower Earrings. Available at Greenleaf & Crosby’s Worth Avenue boutique in Palm Beach. Visit greenleafcrosby.com.

Linda Horn’s Trifari Vintage Fly Brooch with white Lucite body, black and rhinestone head with red eyes. The black and red enamel wings edged with clear crystal rhinestones. $950 at LindaHorn.com. Call 212.772.1122.

Featuring a suede pump with glossy crocodile leather wrapped heels, J.McLaughlin’s Beatrice Suede Heels are in a class by itself and feel every bit as good as they look. $298 at jmclaughlin.com.

Indulge your beloved furry friend with Privé Pet’s exquisite “Le Diamant” collar, featuring a luxurious lizard-embossed faux leather adorned with dazzling glass “diamonds,” gold pyramid studs, and a charming matching bow. Available for $65 each in various colors at privepet.com.

Charlotte Kellogg’s Italian Leather Shoulder Tote in Hot Pink. $195 at charlottekellogg.com.
SEPTEMBER 2023 73

IN THE KNOW: OFF-MARKET AND ON

The Cregan Team’s listing at 2305 S Flagler Drive in West Palm Beach; Lisa and John Cregan (inset). Opposite page, clockwise from above: 2305 S Flagler Drive in West Palm Beach; the kitchen at 255 El Pueblo Way in Palm Beach; living room at 2305 S Flagler Drive in West Palm Beach.

WITH A RECORD of success ranging from $45 million-dollar home sales to hard-to-find waterfront condos, husband and wife real estate duo Lisa and John Cregan have blended their complementary skillsets to make them a leading residential brokerage team in Palm Beach. Lisa brings a wealth of knowledge in architecture and interior design after working as a journalist for big-name home design magazines and authoring seven books on home decor, while John contributes decades of expertise in market analysis, finance, and negotiation. Since the onset of the pandemic, many have flocked to Palm Beach and stayed there permanently for the beautiful weather and idyllic lifestyle. Lisa and John are able to uniquely empathize with their clients, having lived in many of the places from which they hail—Manhattan, Chicago, Connecticut, Philadelphia, and now Palm Beach. “We know what our clients are dealing with, whether it’s movers or inspections, renovations or schools. We’ve been through it for ourselves,” said John.

In 2022, The Cregan Team achieved the remarkable feat of being ranked the #1 small team in Palm Beach. “We are very engaged in the community and clients often come to us when they’d like to sell their home quietly off market. We have sold a number of architecturally significant properties that were never listed in the MLS. For a buyer, that means we have inventory of beautiful homes they’ll never see on their Zillow feed,” said John. As a small island that’s been beloved

and famous since the 1920s, there aren’t many undiscovered corners of Palm Beach. However, one trend The Cregan Team has noticed is that younger families are moving to the area and are gravitating to the North End “cabana streets” due to their easy access to the beach and Lake Trail, along with the barefoot and swimsuit vibe that characterizes the neighborhood. One of their own “cabana street” listings at 255 Pueblo—just a half-block stroll to beach or lake trail—recently underwent renovations and is competitively priced relative to the newly constructed homes nearby. For families looking at a lower price point, they noted, the South-of-Southern “SoSo” neighborhood in West Palm Beach is a wonderful area for families with children without the suburban feeling of a gated community. “There’s been a pullback in pricing post-COVID in both these neighborhoods and with inventory having built back recently, it’s a great time to be a buyer,” commented John. When asked about the factors contributing to the wave of demand for Palm Beach real estate broadly, Lisa responded, “It’s truly a small town, with neighborhoods and neighbors you know. But it’s also a very cosmopolitan place, with art, music, plays, speakers, great restaurants and shops. All the things you’ll miss in that big city you’re leaving–but without the big city.” u

For more information, visit thecreganteam.com, call 847.651.7210, or email john.cregan@sothebys.realty.com.

REALNAMEESTATE COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY
SEPTEMBER 2023 75

TEXTURED SETS FOR FALL

A NEW SEASON is upon us! As the temperatures drop and the leaves begin to change, we start thinking about how we can incorporate a few new trends for fall among our classics. Neutral tones, darker shades and unique textures are being celebrated in a variety of collections this season. It’s all about blending different fabrics to create a textured look. In addition to playing with fabric and texture, a matching set seems to be the sought-after trend for the colder months. The coordinated look gives a discovered but classic feel including matching suits, knits, pea coats, skirts, and slacks.

The sets make it easy to transition from day to night or season to season with designers combining structure and tones to create matching quilted jackets and skirts or even a uniform suit. One of my favorite matching sets is from Ulla Johnson’s fall collection featured in the Autumn/Winter ’23 runway show. Inspired by the ’70s, the wool and cotton blended floral top compliments the Zena printed wide leg pant. The fabric is layered in an exquisite orange floral print creating a fitting silhouette. Another classic fabric you can never go wrong with in autumn is suede. The set is paired here with black suede heels and a sleek mini leather bag from Paris/64. The leather from the Spanish based accessory brand is manufactured with the highest quality and includes smooth hand-painted detail designed to last. These bags are a perfect addition to a set offering a variety of colors.

Lastly, the touch of gold finalizing the look is the sienna gold-plated bracelet by the Australian jeweler Samantha Lowe. Each piece of jewelry is handmade with natural gemstones mixing brass and sterling silver. Complimenting the bracelet are gold-plated earrings by Jennifer Behr, where each piece is carefully hand crafted. ◆

1 STYLE
76 QUEST

1. JANIE MCGRAW PIERREPONT The PARIS/64 icon, a rigid cowhide leather bag of bovine origin, can be carried as a handbag or shoulder bag. Shown here in Prismatic Chocolate. Monogramming available. $365 at paris64.com.

3. CHIMI Always a classic, these Chimi sunglasses feature a traditional cat-eye silhouette and tortoiseshell acetate. $160 at shopbop.com.

4. VALÉRE The slip-on Sienna 24k Gold-Plated Bracelet was crafted using a gold micron plating method on brass and sterling silver to ensure a purse-friendly price point. $170 at modaoperandi.com. 5. JENNIFER BEHR Inspired by the oversized studs of the 1940s, the retro-chic Gold Brissa Stud Earrings feature intricate texture, a lightweight handmade composition, and just the right hint of shine from its gold-plated finish. $148 at tnuck.com. 6. STUART WEITZMAN The STUART 100 PUMP is the ultimate polished pump. It is precisely constructed with razor-sharp details, including a sleek pointed toe and 100-mm stiletto heel. $475 at stuartweitzman.com.

7. ULLA JOHNSON The Flora Top is made from a blend of merino wool and cotton in a textured jacquard pattern with swirling orange, brown, and pink botanicals. This knit fits close to the body, and has elbow-length sleeves and a high neck. $490 at ullajohnson.com.

8. ULLA JOHNSON These ’70s-inspired Zena Pants sit high at the waist and feature flared legs. $550 at ullajohnson.com.

COURTESY OF RESPECTIVE BRANDS 2
8

THE ULTIMATE IN PRIVATE JET SERVICE

fly EXCLUSIVE:
flyExclusive jets. Opposite page: The company’s Founder, CEO, and Chairman Jim Segrave.

IT’S NO SURPRISE that flyExclusive, the ideal membership service for those who travel by private jet, has become number five in the world in just eight years since its launch in 2015. While founder and CEO Jim Segrave chalks some of it up to luck, he is an industry veteran, having sold his previous company to Delta Airlines in 2010.

As soon as his five-year non-compete clause expired in 2015, Segrave launched flyExclusive, and the company now has more than 95 jets in its fleet with more on the way, and its IPO on the New York Stock Exchange was imminent when we spoke with him for this article in July.

“Basically, I made every mistake you could think of [with the previous firm] and I tried to learn from those and make fewer of them this time, and that’s allowed me to grow the business a little faster,” Segrave said. “It’s been a fun, incredible ride doing this.”

Outshines Competitors

flyExclusive’s airplane fleet is fully owned or leased, unlike other companies in the business. Their own pilots fly the planes, the company’s own technicians maintain and paint the crafts, and in-house experts refurbish interiors. “Our structure allows us to control the customer experience, and to really deliver a premium service that works well for the customers and for us,” Segrave explained.

“Many other companies rely on third parties or brokers that sell trips and then go out and procure aircraft from people like me,” he added. “It’s just not the same level that you get with an operator that operates and fully controls their fleet.”

Different Size Planes for All Needs

Jet Club membership guarantees access to flyExclusive’s fleet of Light, Midsize and Super-Midsize airplanes. You can select the size that works best for each flight.

Flying a light jet to Aspen from the East Coast, for example, will likely require a fuel stop. Those flying for leisure may even prefer a chance to get out and stretch their legs, while people traveling with larger parties or young kids may opt for a larger plane to go straight to the destination.

With worldwide certification, flyExclusive provides private jet service in the Americas, the Caribbean, Europe, Asia and elsewhere around the globe.

Membership Options; Fractional Ownership

The standard Jet Club membership requires a mini -

mum $100,000 deposit, and they’ve recently launched a new Platinum tier starting at $150,000, available only to 100 members, that standardizes all costs, with no monthly membership fees, pre-set hourly rates, and no peak or high-demand premiums.

Platinum Jet Club was actually spurred by customer requests, people who may fly often at peak times, like Thanksgiving or high season for certain locations and don’t want surprises like fuel price surcharges. “There’s so much volatility, and of course COVID had pricing and availability all over the board. Our customers have the locked in pricing that they’re really looking for.”

With fractional ownership, you’re buying a share of the airplane; you have equity as a part owner. Flight prices are a bit lower, and you may be able to write off depreciation of the asset. “It’s a great option,” said Segrave. “You’re also getting our brand-new airplanes that will start being delivered in September.”

Pandemic Bump

The pandemic brought new customers who are still using the service. “Once you fly on a private airplane and enjoy that convenience and the efficiency, speed, flying direct to where you want to go, on the schedule you want to fly, with who you want to fly with, it’s very difficult to stop,” said Segrave. The airlines, he feels, with lots of cancellations, overcrowding, staff shortages and limited flexibility, have been one of his best salespeople. “It’s been very good for the private aviation industry.”

New Training Center, HQ, IPO

Headquartered in Kinston, North Carolina, flyExclusive is in the process of building new corporate offices and a new training center, bringing pilot training in-house with their own simulators. Training on-site eliminates bottlenecks, helping to grow the business, as finding slots for pilots is challenging in the industry these days.

Segrave is the sole owner, there are no private equity investors, and he will continue as chairman of the board and CEO after the IPO, and the expert staff will remain in place. “I will still, after going public, own the majority of the business. We’re not changing our model or culture or what got us here, and we don’t have any intentions of going and buying a bunch of operations and fragmenting the business. We’ll pretty much just stick to what got us here and continue along that path.” ◆

For more information, visit flyexclusive.com. For Jet Club & Retail Charter, call 833.359.2582.

SEPTEMBER 2023 79
AVIATION COURTESY OF FLYEXCLUSIVE
“Once you fly on a private airplane and enjoy that convenience, it’s very difficult to stop.”

REFLECTIONS OF AUGUST AMALFI & ISCHIA

‘IF YOU ARE IN a selling or a buying market such as the art market, just buying and selling beautiful or not so beautiful things is not enough. To be creative is so necessary for oneself and how ever bad one is, the key component is the joy of line if you wish to draw or paint. I love the line and that is what I have studied for all my knowing life. The simple line to create and to have the ability as with words to precis the line of a drawing and eliminate the unnecessary is an achievement.’

◆ 80 QUEST
ART SEPTEMBER 2023 81

Grace Evans & Nicholas Eaton Woodhull

J une 10, 2023 j e dgartown , M artha ’ s V ineyard j P hotogra P hed by K ara r i V ers

Grace and Nick were married at their family’s home overlooking Kent Harbor. The bride donned a gown by Jesus Peiro, carried a bouquet of flowers by Louise Sweet, and her mother walked her down the aisle. Hannah O’Neil, the bride’s sister, was the maid of honor, and Corbin and Harry Woodhull, the groom’s brothers, were the best men. After the service, a reception was held with dinner, dancing, and cake by Lori from Hyannis Port on Cape Cod. The couple shared their first dance to “Easy to Adore You” by Mauve. Later on, an afterparty took place in the property’s barn. After the festivities, the newlyweds enjoyed a mini-moon on Nantucket and will travel to South Africa and Seychelles this fall.

Quest Weddings

SEPTEMBER 2023 83

Current Avery D’Ignazio & Christopher Peter Rahe

Current and Christopher “CP” hosted a three-day celebration on Harbour Island-a hop, skip, and water taxi away from Current, Eleuthera, where the bride’s grandparents purchased a home in the 1970s. This island became her namesake and a special place she loved visiting during her childhood due to its raw beauty, pink sand, and turquoise water. The Bahamas was the obvious destination for the couple’s wedding. The festivities commenced with a rehearsal dinner at The Dunmore Hotel on Thursday, and a welcome party and beach bonfire at the Runaway Hill Inn the following evening. On Saturday, Current and CP were married before 112 guests in a barefoot beach ceremony at Coral Sands. After the service, guests were welcomed to a poolside cocktail hour and dinner at the Beach Bar serving Bahamian specialties like cracked conch, local arugula, grouper, pineapple, lobster, and guava rum cake while local musicians performed. As the evening winded down, a surprise Junkanoo rush took place, featuring an elaborate parade with music, dancing, and costumes. It was the highlight of the night! Later on, an afterparty was held at Gusty’s dive bar in town with music by DJ Jamal Johnson. In the wee hours of the morning, some guests caught a glimpse of the Lyrid meteor shower on the Pink Sands beach. Those who decided to stick around on Sunday participated in a pickleball tournament at The Dunmore. After the weekend, the newlyweds enjoyed their honeymoon nearby in an open-air beach hut in Eleuthera.

A pril 22, 2023 j H A rbour i sl A nd , T H e b AHA m A s j p H oTogr A p H ed by
84 QUEST
86 QUEST
A pril 15, 2023 j B edford , N ew Y ork j p hotogr A phed BY l A ure N l A rse N
Elizabeth
Mandeville Walker & Donald Bancroft Meyer II

Missy and Banks were married before 188 guests at St. Matthew’s Episcopal Church. The ceremony was immediately followed by lunch at St. Matthew’s Parish House. The bride wore a dress by Markarian and carried a bouquet of lilies of the valley. Her mother, Page Vincent Gosnell, walked her down the aisle. That evening, guests reconvened for a black-tie celebration at The Rainbow Room in New York City with dinner, dancing, and chocolate coconut cake by Ron Ben-Israel. Missy donned a gown by Amsale, and the newlyweds shared their first dance to “Best of My Love” by The Emotions. After the festivities, the couple traveled through Italy, France, and Spain for their honeymoon.

SEPTEMBER 2023 87

Francesca Somers di Galoma & Nicholas Christian Weberg

M ay 28, 2023 j a spen , C olorado j p hotographed by a nne r hett p hotography

Chessy and Nicho kicked off their wedding weekend with a rehearsal dinner at Aspen X and a welcome party at Casa Tua. The groom’s parents surprised the couple with a special performance from a Grammy nominated artist Ingrid Andres. The following day, Chessy and Nicho were married before 130 guests in the garden at Hotel Jerome. The bride donned a gown by Ines Di Santo and her father, Thomas Lawrence di Galoma, walked her down the aisle. After the service, a reception was held inside where guests enjoyed dinner, dancing, and a three-tier vanilla sponge cake. The newlyweds shared their first dance to “Where You Lead” by Carole King, then broke into a fun choregraphed act to “Juliet & Romeo” by Martin Solveig & Roy Woods. The evening culminated with an afterparty at The Sterling Aspen. The couple enjoyed a mini-moon in Santa Barbara, and will travel to the Amalfi Coast and South of France in 2024.

88

Starting on September 14th, Newport International Boat Show will take place through September 17th. For more information, visit newportboatshow.com.

3

EAST COAST OPEN

Greenwich Polo Club will host its East Coast Open at 3 p.m., and gates will open at 1 p.m. Tickets are available for purchase online. For more information, visit greenwichpoloclub.com.

GARDEN LUNCHEON

The Friends of Wethersfield Estate & Garden will hold its annual luncheon in Amenia. Barbara Tober will receive the Spirit of Wethersfield Award for her successful preservation efforts in the area. This event is by invitation only. For more information, visit wethersfield.org.

6

FIT AWARD

The Couture Council of the Museum at FIT (MFIT) will host its annual luncheon to celebrate the Artistry of Fashion Award at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. This year’s event will honor Gabriela Hearst, founder and creative director of her namesake

fashion brand Gabriela Hearst and creative director of French luxury fashion house Chloé. Each year, the

On September 3rd, Greenwich Polo Club will host its annual East Coast Open. For more information, visit greenwichpoloclub.com.

in New York dedicated exclusively to the art of fashion. Nordstrom is the presenting sponsor. For more information, visit fitnyc.edu.

7

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

New York Fashion Week runway shows will take place through September 13th. For the full schedule, visit cfda.com.

9

FASHION WEEK GALA

SM Global Catwalk will hold its runway gala in Bryant Park’s Paris Ballroom at 5 p.m. to continue fashion week festivities. Tickets are available online to purchase. For more information, visit smglobalcatwalk.com.

LEGACY BALL

The International Tennis Hall of Fame will host the Legacy Ball, celebrating elite members’ recent induction into the Hall of Fame for their outstanding performance and commitment to the sport. For more information, visit tennisfame.com.

CALENDAR SEPTEMBER
90 QUEST
luncheon heralds the arrival of New York Fashion Week, with proceeds benefiting MFIT, the only museum

On September 13th, Casa de Campo Resort & Villas will host its 42nd annual Golf Open. For more information, visit casadecampo.com.do.

OCTOBER 4

LUNCH AT A LANDMARK

New York Landmarks Preservation Foundation will hold its annual Lunch at a Landmark to honor American architect Jeanne Gang. Her impressive Aqua Tower in Chicago made the skyscraper the tallest female designed building at the time of completion. For more information, visit nylpf.org.

5

NYC BALLET FALL GALA

Celebrating the 75th anniversary of the New York City Ballet, the organization will host its annual Fall Gala to reflect the city’s prevailing vitality. The event will feature dinner, dancing, and will honor co-founders George Balanchine and Jerome Robbins. For more information, email specialevents@nycballet.com.

13

CASA DE CAMPO OPEN

The 42nd annual Casa de Campo Golf Open will take place through September 17th. Participants will enjoy a combination of luxury resort amenities with word-class golf in the Dominican Republic. For more information, visit casadecampo.com.do.

14

NEWPORT BOAT SHOW

Newport International Boat Show, one of the most prestigious boat shows in the country, will run through September 17th. Visitors can walk on the debut boats and stock up on marine gear from vendors. Educational seminars, boating courses, and giveaways are also available. For more information, visit newportboatshow.com.

16

SUICIDE PREVENTION

Francesco’s Foundation, a 501c(3) registered charity created to help prevent teenage suicide through providing financial support for education in schools, will host a fundraising event in East Hampton. For more information, visit francescosfoundation.org.

23

THE BRIDGE VII

Taking place at the private golf club

that sits on the hallowed grounds of the original Bridgehampton Race Circuit, The Bridge classic car exhibition pays tribute to the historic racing that took place on the site for nearly half a century. The exhibition is primarily focused on post-war sports and competition cars that raced or would have been eligible to race at The Bridgehampton Race Circuit during its glory years. More than 200

cars of great provenance are featured every year. The invitation to attend the September event is limited to members of The Bridge and their guests, brand partners’ guests, those whose incredible cars are being shown as part of the exhibition, and specially invited collectors from around the world. For more information, visit thebridgehamptons.com.

5

HAMPTONS FILM FESTIVAL

Hamptons International Film Festival will take place out East through October 12th. The festival will feature film screenings and celebrations. Last year’s features garnered an impressive 38 Oscar nominations. For more information, visit hamptonsfilmfest.org.

CALENDAR
On September 6th, the Couture Council of the Museum at FIT (MFIT) will host its annual luncheon honoring Gabriela Hearst with its Artistry of Fashion Award. For more information, visit fitnyc.edu.
SEPTEMBER 2023 91

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY

SOHO. Simply saying those two syllables ignites something electric and alive. Not only because David Bowie once lived there—the word itself just sounds cool. Visitors are drawn to the neighborhood that is “South of Houston street” for its historic cast-iron architecture, legendary art scene, great restaurants, and—the shopping—an enclave of designer boutiques and unique neighborhood shops. The 1980s created a boom in SoHo shopping at a time when the area consisted primarily of starving artists and musicians renting loft spaces “off-market”. Their creative vibe added to the charisma and charm of SoHo’s cobblestone streets, which is still felt in the bohemian chic neighborhood.

Tucked away at 9 Crosby Street, on one of SoHo’s quintessential city blocks, stands the NoMo SoHo hotel. Benjamin Noriega Ortiz provided the 26-story hotel’s whimsical interior design, including an enchanted garden with a plant-covered trellis, and the iconic fairy-lit botanical archway at the main entrance, (NoMo’s tunnel has become an instagrammable sensation for visitors from all over the world). It is a hotel that thrives at the intersection of nostalgia and modernity, much like the beauti-

High above New York City on the terrace of NoMo SoHo’s penthouse suite, Chloé Tallulah Lazard wears Oscar de la Renta’s Botanical Stripe Threadwork Embroidered Gown ($18,990) paired with Asprey’s Green Chaos Earrings of peridot stones set in 18k yellow gold ($5,395), Green Chaos Pendant ($7,795), and Green Chaos Ring ($6,575). On her right wrist she wears Wempe’s 18k rose gold Minimalism Bangle ($1,565), 18k rose gold and diamond Spotlight Bangle ($11,105), Sensual Cocoon Ring of 18k rose gold and diamonds ($7,585), and her own Cartier Love bracelet (worn throughout).

ful, sweet, and free-spirited Chloé Tallulah Lazard, who we spent the day with as she dressed in fall fashion and danced and skipped and twirled about NoMo, from the sweeping city views of the penthouse rooftop to the main floor’s classic Kitchen bar and restaurant.

Genuinely sweet and refreshingly uncurated, Chloé is a world traveler who grew up in New York City and recently graduated from Parsons The New School. She has an eye for style (the heartshaped Alaïa bag she carries on the cover is her own), and much like her mom, Erin, Chloé possesses the depth to flash a sweet smile— and within the next breath throw out that precocious NYC-native stare—which is part of her humor and charm and also what draws everyone toward her.

From NoMo, we traveled uptown with Chloé–to a very different vibe on the Upper East Side. Our destination? Graff, the British jeweler known to house brilliant gems and sparkling diamonds so bright they will nearly take your breath away. The luxurious, wood-paneled, private salon in the storied jeweler’s flagship at 710 Madison Avenue (at the corner of East 63rd Street) was designed by the world’s most sought-after architect of luxury stores, Peter Marino (whose vibe is more SoHo than the UES).

We did it all in one day—from earth meets sky meets concrete jungle (see the graffiti heart wall at NoMo SoHo) to the polished walls of the House of Graff on Madison. It’s the kind of thing you can only do in this city—a true New York moment. ◆

For your own New York City moment, reserve a room at NoMo SoHo through September to enjoy an exclusive Bloomingdales SoHo shopping experience including mimosas, special deals and discounts, beauty services, and deluxe take-home samples. Contact sales@nomosoho.com upon booking.

Chloé kicks up her heels seated in Graff’s Salon on Madison Avenue dressed in Polo

Ralph Lauren’s Satin Gown ($698). She dons Graff’s exquisite white oval diamond (26.53 carats) ring with white heart shape diamond shoulders in platinum, white oval diamond line (62.49 carats) necklace in white gold and platinum, and white and diamond (11.93 carats) earrings in platinum and white gold.

Prices upon request.

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Chloé stands before the cast-iron gate of NoMo SoHo’s romantic Rose Garden dressed in Polo Ralph Lauren’s Silk Dress ($598), Leather Riding Boots ($698), Wool Jacket ($598), and Polo ID Calfskin Large Shoulder Bag ($798). She pairs the look with Asprey’s Sputnik Earrings ($16,500), three of Wempe’s Sundance Rings BY KIM in 18k rose gold stacked on her left hand (prices vary between $2,135-$2,245), and Wempe Blu 5-row Ring BY KIM in rose gold ($6,795) on her right hand.

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Chloé sits on the bar of NoMo Kitchen wearing Oscar de la Renta’s Sleeveless Wool Tweed & Acorn Guipure Dress ($3,490). She pairs the look with Asprey’s Blue Chaos Earrings in blue topaz and aquamarine set in white gold ($7,100). On her left wrist, she wears Wempe Statements Uptown Bracelet ($20,175) and Spotlight Ring ($15,575), both of diamonds set in 18k white gold. On her right hand, she wears Wempe Statements Flowery Ring of diamonds set in 18k white gold ($28,275).

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Chloé poses in NoMo SoHo’s iconic Tunnel of Love. She wears Polo Ralph Lauren’s Tulle Dress ($998), Wool-blend Coat ($898), and Leather Riding Boots ($698). For jewelry, she wears Flowery Pearl Necklace by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($34,500), Tiedrops by Wempe Casuals bracelet in 18k yellow gold ($4,295) on her left wrist, and Uptown Ring by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($18,975).

Chloé takes in the view on NoMo SoHo’s penthouse suite terrace. She wears J.McLaughlin’s Freida Raffia Hat in Natural/ Brown ($128), Jamey Sweater in Petrol Blue ($148), Lowden Jeans in Dark Denim ($188), Selena Sunglasses in Leopard Tortoise ($138), and she holds J.McLaughlin’s Una Woven Suede Crossbody in Toasted Coconut ($248). For shoes, she wears Manolo Blahnik’s HUMIBAMU Blue Moire Jewel Strap Mules ($1,025). For jewelry, she wears Wempe Sensual Golden Bridge Earrings BY KIM in 18k rose gold ($5,085), Wempe Sensual Golden Bridge Ring BY KIM in 18k rose gold on her left hand, Wempe Sensual Seventies Bracelet BY KIM in 18k rose gold ($22,175) on her right wrist, and Electrify Ring by Wempe Casuals in 18k yellow gold ($2,015).

Chloé lounges in Graff’s Salon on Madison Avenue dressed in Oscar de la Renta’s Crystal Embroidered Faille Column Gown ($8,290). She wears Graff’s white pear shape diamond earrings (28.71 carats) with white baguette diamonds in white gold; white pear shape diamond cross over line (35.60 carats) necklace in white gold and platinum; white round diamond line (26.33 carats) bracelet in platinum and white gold; and white pear shape diamond (8.55 carats) ring with white tapered baguette diamond shoulders in platinum. Prices upon request.

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Chloé stands against a view of the Brooklyn Bridge and East River, seen from NoMo SoHo’s rooftop terrace. She wears Zimmermann’s Luminosity Liftoff Flower Midi Dress ($1,600) and Zimmermann Farrow Pumps 55 ($550), paired with Tiedrops Bracelet by Wempe Casuals in 18k yellow gold ($2,695) on her left wrist, Wempe Sensual Cocoon BY KIM Ring in 18k rose gold ($7,585) on her left hand, Asprey’s Single Leaf Bangle ($7,150) on her right wrist, and Flowery Ring by Wempe Statements in 18k rose gold ($10,995) on her right hand.

Chloé opts for mod 1960s OpArt on the stairs of NoMo SoHo’s rooftop penthouse. She wears Carolina Herrera’s black and white Floral Cloque Mini Dress ($3,290) and black and white Manolo Blahnik Bamana Monochrome Crepe de Chine Polka Dot Pumps ($1,045). She pairs the look with Spot light Earrings by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($33,775), Multisize Serafino Consoli Ring/Bangle by Wempe Classics in 18k white gold ($28,940) on her left hand, Uptown Bracelet by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($20,175) on her left wrist, and Uptown Ring by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($18,975) on her right hand. Inset: Chloé welcomes guests into the penthouse suite wearing Alexander McQueen’s black and white houndstooth jacket ($2,900), trousers ($1,090), and white shirt ($790)—paired with Wempe Sensual Earrings BY KIM in 18k rose gold and diamonds ($21,875).

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Chloé flashes her best “I grew up in New York City” stare—before breaking into laughter. Seated before a portrait of Laurence Graff in the famed British jeweler’s Madison Avenue flagship Salon, she wears Johanna Ortiz’s Black Rosette Ankle Dress ($1,850) paired with Graff’s round white diamond-cut double row (29.85 carats) necklace with bow motif and white pear diamond drops in white gold; white baguette diamond (6.06 carats) earrings with white diamond ribbon bow and pear shape diamond drop in white gold; white oval diamond (26.53 carats) ring with white heart shape diamond shoulders in platinum on her right hand, and white round and baguette cut diamond bow (3.60 carats) ring in white gold on her left hand. Prices upon request.

Dancing before the floor-to-ceiling windows of NoMo SoHo’s penthouse, Chloé wears Oscar de la Renta’s Crystal Scallop Illusion Neck Lamé Cape Caftan ($6,990). She pairs the look with Wempe’s Multisize Serafino Consoli Ring/Bangle in 18k white gold ($28,940) and Flowery Ring by Wempe Statements in 18k white gold ($28,275).

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50 YEARS HAVE PASSED SINCE AMERICANS WON THE FAMOUS FASHION FACE-OFF

SOME SIXTEEN YEARS AGO, after my daughter Elizabeth had convincingly persuaded me to support her launch of Q , a style magazine with pedigreed roots, I quickly realized that I knew little or nothing about the fashion industry. At the House of Luce, once nobly known as TIME Inc. I had run titles that covered news, sports, finance, entertainment and people. But none of them approached the fastidious—and tricky—realm of the rag trade. (Luce’s wife, Claire, told me later in life that: “Harry basically thought fashion was frivolous ... until he met me.”) So I sought out the sage advice of professionals and pals throughout the fashion world who might “school me,”or at least keep me from making any stupid or costly

blunders. One of the most helpful and kind souls was Tom Fallon, a well-placed fashion executive most respected for his tact and discretion—traits not always found back then on Seventh Avenue. During the mid-1960s and swinging Seventies, Fallon had worked for both Halston and Bill Blass. The working press often referred to Fallon as the “consigliere,” and I was immediately taken with his broad

1973’s Fashion Battle of Versailles marked the emergence of American designers Oscar de la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Anne Klein (who brought along her assistant, Donna Karan), onto the world stage. Opposite page: Hélène de Rothschild and Princess Grace at Versailles to witness fashion’s facedown.

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STILL FROM STILL FROM VERSAILLES ’73: AMERICAN REVOLUTION 2014. VERSAILLES ’73: AMERICAN REVOLUTION. JEAN-LUCE HURÉ FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

knowledge of, and keen sensitivity to, the industry’s more subtle nuances.

Rube that I was, I queried Tom as to exactly when it happened that authentic American style had finally made the full break from its more refined European influences. He gave me a quick, but precise tutorial on the post-WWII growth of American casual attire, most clearly evidenced in our natural embrace of sportswear. Tom reflected for a bit and then modestly told me that he had played a very small part in what he believed was the seminal event that put American designers onto an equal footing with their international counterparts, most especially the French.

It happened on November 28th in 1973 during the first official Paris Fashion Week, when its now fabled opening night became known as The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show, pitting five of France’s most celebrated designers (Givenchy, Ungaro, Pierre Cardin, Christian Dior and Saint Laurent) against a

REGINALD GRAY; FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE/PENSKE MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK; COURTESY OF MADE TO MEASURE; COURTESY OF FLATIRON BOOKS. OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OF FLATIRON BOOKS 106 QUEST

Legendary singer Josephine Baker performs live for the finale of the French portion of 1973’s Battle of Versailles. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: David Mahoney, Elsa Peretti, Halston, and Marisa Berenson celebrating at the Battle of Versailles; Yves Saint Laurent and friends enjoying the revelry; Liza Minnelli takes the stage; The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History by Robin Givhan (inset).

relatively unknown band of young Americans (Anne Klein, Bill Blass, Halston, Oscar de la Renta and Stephen Burrows). What began as not much more than a publicity stunt engineered by Eleanor Lambert to promote her clients, has mythically become—now 50 years later—the Woodstock of fashion shows. Tom Fallon, who was there helping to direct the American effort as Bill Blass’ assistant, calls it: “The accident that happened.” In the late Bill Cunningham’s book he squeakily hails it: “the most creative fashion show of the 20th Century.” It was fresh and it was fluid, and when Liza Minelli belted out the opening number there were ten black models sashaying behind her with an energy and style that the stiffer, more formal French models just couldn’t match. At the end of the Americans’ performance, the sophisticated and mostly French audience threw their programs on the

stage in tribute to the designers and the models. Back stage, the legendary Josephine Baker, who at 77 years old had modeled that evening for Christian Dior, threw her arms around 17 year old Black American model Billie Blair and cried for her success. And Hubert de Givenchy shook Bill Blass’ hand and said in perfect English: “Tonight you have shown us a new younger way.” An American way, indeed! u

Halston, Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, and Stephen Burrows—in The Battle of Versailles in 1973. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Jane Birkin performing during the French portion of the show; Pat Cleveland dressed in a look by Stephen Burrows; The audience at the Théâtre Gabriel de Versailles, during the Battle of Versailles in 1973.

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Five French designers: Marc Bohan for Dior, Pierre Cardin, Emmanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent, and Hubert de Givenchy—competed against five U.S. designers:

A BEAUTIFU LIFE IN COLOR

I WILL NEVER FORGET photographing Mrs. Herrera with Harry Benson in her atelier 10 years ago. She is a lady in every sense of the word. Her demeanor exudes grace and charm like none other. When she laughs, a whole room laughs with her, and when she flashes her captivating smile, lights become brighter and colors suddenly become more vivid. Mrs. Herrera has always been wonderfully kind to me throughout my career (I’ve kept many of her beauti-

fully handwritten notes on my special storyboard). Her style is always perfection—tailored and feminine—simple, understated elegance, and always with pockets. Carolina Herrera has long stood for something. As British Vogue Editor in Chief Edward Enninful writes in the introduction of Carolina Herrera: Colormania—Color and Fashion, by Elizaveta Porodina and Wes Gordon (Rizzoli), a book that is inspired by the strong and full fire of the Carolina Herrera

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Clockwise from top: A colorful portrait of a Carolina Herrera look from the Fall 2021 collection by Elizaveta Porodina; Dove Cameron stars as Carolina Herrera’s muse, photographed by Elizaveta Porodina; Carolina Herrera and creative director Wes Gordon celebrate the reopening of the Carolina Herrera flagship store in 2019. Opposite page: Carolina Herrera photographed by Harry Benson in her atelier in 2014; Rizzoli’s Colormania (inset).

Clockwise from above: Japanese ballerina and principal dancer at the San Francisco Ballet, Misa Kuranaga, dressed in Carolina Herrera, photographed by Elizaveta Porodina; Indré Rockefeller (dressed in Carolina Herrera) being twirled by Wes Gordon at the top of the Skylark bar; a look from Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2022 collection depicted by Elizaveta Porodina. Opposite page: A colorful look from Wes Gordon’s debut collection for Carolina Herrera in 2019.

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woman, “You can always recognize a Carolina Herrera woman by how she holds herself and how quickly heads turn when she walks into a room. Mrs. Herrera herself epitomizes the best of the clothes she created with her endless refinement and elegance”. Her gift to fashion history is a label that is always enjoyed by those who wear and behold her clothes and that is forever cherished and esteemed by those of us who continue to witness Carolina Herrera

As years have gone by, the house has evolved into a true legacy. Mrs. Herrera’s iconic designs live on through a new generation with Wes Gordon, the house’s creative director who has embraced the spirit of Carolina Herrera. We photographed Wes twirling Indré Rockefeller on the rooftop of New York City’s Skylark bar five years ago and he could not have been more gracious or fun to spend time with (not to mention his charisma and devilishly handsome smile). Gordon has infused the house with a youthful spirit and bold, colorful looks that each season every girl is excited to put on and have fun wearing. Gordon never fails to bring bright color and a sense of unconditional joy to his collections—a failsafe that each season everyone is excited to behold and admire. His gift to the house shines through in Colormania, a book that sings to readers in an effortless language of opulence. For the book, Gordon partnered with

fashion and fine art photogtapher, Elizaveta Porodina, on a collection of rhythmical images that merge bold color and timeless beauty in a theatrical style.

The book is a collaborative series of images featuring Porodina’s signature style—capturing Carolina Herrera’s Resort and Spring 2022 collections in a dreamy, otherworldly light. Inspired by dance and the work of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, the mesmerizing tome is flooded with photography of models and dancers in motion—reflecting the vibrant energy and optimism of Carolina Herrera’s inspirational clothing. Ethereal beauties wear ball-gown skirts in graphic prints, a striped black and white strapless dress, and bold, jewel-toned voluminous ensembles in shades of pink and red, along with close-ups of jewelry, leather goods, and eyewear.

Of the book, Gordon says, “What I want people to take away from Colormania is the same thing as what I want them to take away from my work: I want people to love and appreciate beauty. Very often, we abandon the idea of beauty, or we consider it old-fashioned or irrelevant. We should not do that. Beauty is good for our soul and so good for the world. It is essential”. We agree with you Wes—beauty is essential, as is joy. Thank you for continuing to inspire beauty and joy at the house of Carolina Herrera. ◆

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NAME RECOGNITION AT TORY BURCH

Indeed, Tory Burch has reached the top of the heap in just under 20 years, thanks to a savvy business strategy and an ability to make appealing apparel and, especially, the bread-and-butter segment of luxury fashion houses—accessories.

From above: A colorful array of Tory Burch Reva Ballet Flats (the shoe that helped launch the designer’s career), named after Tory Burch’s mother, Reva Robinson; Tory Burch’s Lee Radziwill Double Bag featured in tweed. The bag composed of layers that unfold like the collar of a trench coat—a style often worn by Lee Radziwill, a woman who Tory always admired and for whom the bag was named; Tory Burch at age six with her mother, Reva. Opposite page: Burch carrying a Lee in green.

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TIKTOK.COM/@VOGUEMAGAZINE; TORY BURCH; TORY BURCH

When Burch launched her label out of a single and quite singular in-style NoLita boutique with bright orange doors in 2004, her focus was on sparkly tops and retro-chic prints, mostly separates and one key item: the Reva ballet flat. The shoe with a round toe and T-emblem was named after her mother, Reva Robinson. The Reva was an immediate hit across the country, and hastened Burch’s rise as a People Magazine persona. Oprah, the ultimate shopper (and a fan of the Reva flat) booked Burch early on her talk show, making Tory Burch’s Reva flats one of her “favorite things” in 2010, and blowing up the Tory Burch E-commerce site (Burch has released a variation of the ballet flat in every collection since founding her namesake company).

Clockwise from top left: A look from Tory Burch’s Fall 2023 runway; the Petite Lee Radziwill Cat Eye Bag in blue, $399 at toryburch.com; Tory Burch Claire Ballet Flats in light sand, $248 at toryburch.com; Tory Burch speaking in New York City, 2017.

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Of Lee Radziwill, Tory Burch says, “There was a simplicity to the way she dressed, but it was never boring— she always looked like herself.” After debuting in 2018, Tory Burch’s Lee Radziwill bag (nicknamed “the Lee”) remains a hit. A little bit undone, drape and volume are fundamental to the design.

TORY BURCH

Tory Burch’s Petite Lee Radziwill Double Bag in black, $598 at toryburch.com; Lee Radziwill sporting her effortless style in New York City, 1973; Tory Burch carrying a Lee Radziwill Double Bag in Italy, 2019; Lee Radziwill Double Bag in cream, $1,098 at toryburch.com.

Clockwise from top left: A model holds the Petite Lee Radziwill Double Bag in Tiramisu, $598 at toryburch. com; Lee Radziwill exiting a car at her house in London, 1976; Lee walks ahead of her sister, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, on a street in London, 1970.

As a former public relations pro for Seventh Avenue labels, Burch understood the power of exposure to the masses… which would give her a clean identity and a healthy bottom line. Her company is now estimated to be a $3 billion enterprise.

Steady growth over the past 19 years and a sure hand produces desirable pieces for everyone from Boomers to Gen-Zers, a truly enviable range of customers. Price points aren’t crazy either.

So, Burch’s recent move into the luxury handbag segment, with the introduction of another well-named accessory—the Lee Radziwill range of purses and totes— cannot be dismissed as an anomaly. Tory Burch’s version of bags named for a stylish woman, in the vein of the Kellys and

Birkins of Hermès, Gucci’s “Jackie”, Ralph Lauren’s “Ricky”, and Marc Jacobs’s “Stams” and “Karlies”, most notably.

“I have always admired Lee,” says Burch, who met Radziwill about fifteen years ago. “She was fearlessly unique and could make anything look chic and elegant.” Some Radziwill bags have an “undone” draped quality, others have a retro glam silhouette. By embracing Radziwill and bringing her historically chic cool to the fore, Burch is again making a formidable name for herself. ◆

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TORY BURCH; TOM WARGACKI/WIREIMAGE/GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

A TRAILBLAZE R ... AND OH, SHE’S WEARING A BLAZER!

DURING HER LIFETIME, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel—fashion designer and founder of her namesake Chanel brand—embodied the epitome of the modern working woman. Through her timeless color choices, structured fabrics, and subtle detailing, she encapsulated what it means for a woman to be a professional. Throughout her 60year career—which spanned from the brand’s founding in 1910 to her death in 1971—Gabrielle Chanel became one of the most notable designers of the 20th century and a trailblazer for women’s business attire, credited for popularizing a sporty chic look as a feminine style in the post-World War I era. Most

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Exhibition view of Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Victoria and Albert Museum; Gabrielle Chanel, Suit Autumn/Winter 1964 (inset). Opposite page: Dorothy + Little Bara priest, Paris ( Vogue ), 1960.

COURTESY OF VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; © PATRIMOINE DE CHANEL, PARIS/PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE

notably, as a working woman, she was designing first and foremost for herself and her own lifestyle, creating clothes fit for an independent and active routine. Expanding beyond couture, Gabrielle Chanel eventually added fragrances, leather accessories, and jewelry to the brand’s offerings.

Beginning on September 16th, the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in London will showcase Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto, an exhibition dedicated to the evolution of the work of Gabrielle Chanel, from the establishment of the House of Chanel and the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris to the showing of her final collection in 1971. Featuring over 200 looks seen together for the first time—including one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments from 1916, an early example of Chanel’s ground-breaking evening trousers, and costumes designed by Chanel for the Ballets Russes production of Le Train Bleu in 1924—the exhibition will run through February 2024. “As one of the most successful fashion houses in existence, Chanel owes much to the templates first laid down by its founder Gabrielle Chanel, over a century ago. We are delighted to be partnering with Chanel and the Palais Galliera on this exhibition, which provides us with the opportunity to explore the origins and elements of this enduring style and to display little-known historic Chanel garments from the V&A collection,” commented Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A.

Divided into 10 themed areas, each section within the exhibition tells its own story. “Towards a New Elegance” focuses on Gabrielle Chanel’s early days as a milliner, while others, like “The Emergence of a Style,” look into her initial designs for Chanel. “The Invisible Accessory” discusses the impact of Chanel’s debut of the world’s best-selling perfume N°5 and the launch of the brand’s makeup col-

© PATRIMOINE DE CHANEL, PARIS / PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE
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Marilyn Monroe applying Chanel N°5 at the Ambassador Hotel, New York, photographed by Ed Feingersh on March 24, 1955; Album White Bottoms: N°5 Chanel Paris
©ED FEINGERSH/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; ©PARIS MUSÉES/MUSÉE CARNAVALET –HISTOIRE DE PARIS
1927, Musée Carnavalet, Histoire de Paris (inset). Opposite page: Gabrielle Chanel, Dress, 1932.

lection in 1927, while “The Suit” spotlights the defining garment of Gabrielle Chanel’s post-war contribution. Each section demonstrates how multifaceted Gabrielle Chanel was in her designs and how her work has continued to live on so successfully for decades. Ultimately, it is no surprise that Gabri elle Chanel has built such a widespread legacy for herself. As a female trailblaz er in clothing and fashion design during a time in which women’s societal roles were changing, the empire she created was no small feat. Gabrielle Chanel’s ability to enter an industry with such power is reflective of her creativity and agility as a businesswoman. “Gabrielle Chanel devoted her long life to creat ing, perfecting and promoting a new kind of elegance based on freedom of movement, a natural and casual pose, a subtle elegance that shuns all extrav agances, a timeless style for a new kind of woman. That was her fashion mani festo, a legacy that has never gone out of style. Her success was based not only on the functionality, comfort and chic elegance of her designs, but also on her ability to grasp and interpret the needs and desires of the women of her time,” said Miren Arzalluz, Director of the Palais Galliera.u

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COURTESY OF VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; © PALAIS GALLIERA, PARIS / PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE; © CHANEL / PHOTO: NICHOLAS ALAN COPE
Clockwise from bottom left: Gabrielle Chanel, Dress, 1935; Gabrielle Chanel, Dress 1935, Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris; exhibition view of Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Opposite page: Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937.

AN HOMAGE TO THE CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS

NEW YORK CITY has consistently demonstrated remarkable resilience in the face of the most challenging times, including in the aftermath of the 9/11 attacks and, more recently, through the upheavals wrought by the COVID-19 pandemic. This enduring strength can be attributed to the city’s abundant opportunities and the indomitable free spirit that is deeply engrained into its culture. In Assouline’s latest masterpiece, New York Chic, an introduction by seasoned editor Armand Limnander, coupled with captivating photography by Oliver Pilcher, guides readers on a visual journey through this extraordinary metropolis. Limnander, an immigrant hailing from Colombia who made his way to New York following his studies at the University of California, Berkeley,

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OLIVER PILCHER
The southern half of Manhattan unfolds like a set of building blocks when viewed from the top of One Vanderbilt; Assouline’s New York Chic (inset).
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shares his personal encounters and intertwines them with the city’s profound history. The book also unveils photographs showcasing the city’s distinctive spaces and its eclectic inhabitants, all of which encapsulate the quintessence of New York’s character.

From the very moment Limnander arrived in New York, the blend of ideas, opportunities, and diverse cultures was an unmistakable reality. “I felt like everything was at my fingertips. Nightlife, galleries, museums, restaurants, and shops all awaited my discovery, and I couldn’t explore them fast enough,” he reflected. The city is a melting pot of neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive traits that attract a diverse array of residents. Chelsea is characterized by a vibrant gay nightlife, the familyoriented Upper East Side boasts Central Park and historic museums, Midtown teems with offices and suits, while the East Village plays host to bustling dive bars, attracting a young, hip crowd.

Even in the crowds—wherever that may be—Limnander observes a unique sense of anonymity. Through the city’s ever-changing culture and forward-thinking populace, individuals are afforded the liberty to be their authentic selves

OLIVER PILCHER
Clockwise from above: The Corner Deli in SoHo; evenings at the Bowery Hotel; high-tempo pickup basketball game at the courts on West 4th Street; Tate Jordan, Tommy Rizzoli and friends at Dirty French on the Lower East Side. Opposite page: Artist Jonah Freeman and filmmaker Arden Wohl at their East Village apartment; born in Brooklyn and raised in Harlem and the Bronx, Rakiem Walker is a true born-and-bred New Yorker (inset).

without intrusion. Throughout its history, New York has stood as a bastion of progressive ideals and social change. “Standing out, not fitting in, is the goal in New York. Outsiders are always in,” explained Limnander. The city’s activist spirit has also magnetized the creative industries, drawing in top talent across fields like art, writing, design, and culinary arts. Fashion designer Zaldy Goco, nightlife impresario Omar Hernandez, and artist José Parlá are just a handful of the creatives who invite readers into their homes and work spaces in New York Chic. The book masterfully immerses readers in the vivid, and sometimes paradoxical aesthetics that define this city of dreams and boundless potential. It’s not beauty or elegance, but the sum of these intricate facets that collectively bestows upon New York its unparalleled sense of chic. In the words of Limnander, “Paris is the capital of France. London, the capital of England. Tokyo is the capital of Japan, and Beijing the capital of China. New York, on the other hand, is not the capital of the United States—but it is, unquestionably, the capital of the world. No other city, anywhere, can even come close to claiming that title. To understand exactly why that is can take a lifetime.” u OLIVER

PILCHER
Counterclockwise from top right: Inside the home of Kathy Ryan and writer and editor Scott Thode; Miguel Southee at the J-M-Z subway stop in South Williamsburg, Brooklyn; townhouses lining the street; a biker; artwork covers the walls at Charlotte Kidd’s studio in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Opposite page: Washington Square Arch; singing the night away at a karaoke bar in the East Village is a quintessential New York experience (inset).
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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST YGL

MURRAY
Dinner at Mulford Farm.

IN LATE JULY, Net-a-Porter, Mr. Porter, and Ralph Lauren hosted an intimate dinner at the Mulford Farm to celebrate their partnership. Ralph Lauren is a longtime supporter of the East Hampton Historical Society, which preserves and maintains the historic venue (ca. 1680), one of America’s most significant, intact, English colonial farmsteads. The evening began with al fresco cocktails in the garden, followed by a seated dinner in the barn. Classic dishes from The Polo Bar were served in a setting decorated with elements from Ralph Lauren Home.

RALPH LAUREN’S DINNER IN EAST HAMPTON Clockwise from top left: David Lauren and Lauren Bush Lauren; Emma Roberts; Dianna Agron and Derek Blasberg; Isabel Machado and Christopher Briney; Barbara Sturm, Tamron Hall and Alison Loehnis.
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SUMMERFEST IN SOUTHAMPTON

TO CELEBRATE ITS 10th anniversary, Southampton Arts Center hosted its annual SummerFest, benefiting its educational programs. The evening honored Simone Levinson with the 2023 Champion of the Arts Award, and included cocktails, dinner, dancing, and music by Ariana DeBose and Jessica Vosk. An afterparty, coined “Summerfest After Dark,” with a live performance by Saucy Santana, was held for younger supporters later on.

Aoki Lee Simmons and Andrew Warren Emma Holzer and Mackenzie Phelan Olga Sorokina and Polina Proshkina Jake Fleischman and Ryan Thomas Roth
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Logan Horne and Ivy Getty PATRICK MCMULLAN

ON JULY 29TH, God’s Love We Deliver held its annual Midsummer Night Drinks event at the home of David Burtka and Neil Patrick Harris in East Hampton. Each year, the cocktail party raises funds for the organization, which aims to improve the health and well-being of people living with HIV/AIDS, cancer, and other serious illnesses by alleviating hunger and malnutrition.

MIDSUMMER NIGHT DRINKS IN EAST HAMPTON Rachel Zoe and Kaius Berman William Featherby and Geoffrey Bradfield
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Neil Patrick Harris, David Ludwigson and David Burtka Nicky Hilton Rothschild PATRICK MCMULLAN Russell Jamie Johnson and Sophie Sumner

BARBIE: THE ULTIMATE FASHION ICON

Counterclockwise from above: Barbie attends the opening of the Barbie exhibition at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, 2016; Barbie by Dior, 1997; Barbie by Oscar de la Renta, 1998; Barbie by Ralph Lauren, 1996.

dominated the airwaves over the past year, thanks to the release of the eagerly anticipated film helmed by director Greta Gerwig. Barbie: The Movie, which hit screens on July 21st, shattered box office records upon its release, bringing in over $500 million domestically, the highest grossing domestic release ever for Warner Bros. Pictures. The cinematic gem stars Margot Robbie as Barbie and Ryan Gosling as Ken, offering an exploration of the narrative behind Mattel’s iconic plastic doll. The brainchild of Ruth Handler, Barbie came into existence on March 9, 1959, immediately altering the cultural landscape.

Barbie’s emergence unfolded during the height of the battle for gender equality when women were predominantly confined to traditional caretaker roles and expected to dress conservatively. But the pioneering Barbie doll boldly defied convention. Her matured physique and audacious fashion choices—a black-and-white swimsuit, high heels, hoop earrings, and makeup—were revolutionary, pushed boundaries, and made Barbie a style icon. Over time, she ventured into diverse professions, becoming the first female astronaut, doctor,

and firefighter. Through the ever-shifting currents of her career, Barbie has remained an unparalleled symbol of style, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry.

Her fashion journey, from the opulent attire of the ’60s to the active, career-driven looks of the ’80s and ’90s, has mirrored the changing American culture. Collaborations with designers like Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta, each creating their unique Barbie dolls in 1996 and 1998, respectively, underscore her significance. She also catalyzed the “Barbiecore” fashion trend—a phenomenon characterized by unabashedly pink and feminine elements. Though not new, Barbiecore achieved renewed vigor in 2022, infiltrating celebrity ensembles and haute couture runways like Valentino’s resplendent Pink PP collection. Even retailers have joined the celebration, with Bloomingdale’s recently unveiling a dedicated Barbie-inspired pop-up shop. Through it all, Barbie persists as a cultural touchstone, a dynamic emblem inspiring generations to embrace self-expression and celebrate diversity through fashion. u

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COURTESY OF MATTEL
Buying, Selling & Collecting Since 1868 Graduated Diamond Riviere Necklace, Circa 1900 The Greenleaf & Crosby Estate Collection

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