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2 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
05 lists & letters a letter from the editor Tiny Bits
Lovely lace, delicate glass and feminine florals for the boudoir and beyond
the a-list
The coffee table gets a literary makeover
08 fashion & beauty
Lightborne Publishing Inc. 811 Race St., Fifth Floor Cincinnati, OH 45202 Phone: 513-665-4700 Editorial Fax: 513-665-4369 Business Fax: 513-665-4368 E-mail: info@a-linemagazine.com a-linemagazine.com
test kitchen
Our trio tries COVERGIRL Outlast longwearing lipcolor
mirror, mirror
A simple, photography-friendly look for special occassions
first look
Keep cool in summer classics: wearable whites, breezy caftans and colorful sunhats
fashion spread
A baroque garden fête in tonal creams and blush with a hint of sparkle and feminine equestrian flair
18 arts & culture style sampled
A look into the fashionable life of HighStreet’s Leah Spurrier By Tamia Stinson
the science of scent
Editor in chief Maija Zummo CREATIVE Director Rebecca Sylvester editor at large Judith Turner-Yamamoto Contributors
Alexis Bergman, Jacqueline Burris, Kristina Gerig, Tess Hammons, Megan Kelly, Elle Morris, Christina Pfeffer, Whitney Simon, Tamia Stinson, Taryn Tegarden, Kimberly Trejo, Garen Torchia, Molly Wellmann photographers
Josh Chiara, Jesse Fox, Brittany Justice, Cameron Knight, Emily Maxwell, Tiffany Dawn Nicholson, Thomas Stemrich illustrator
Julie Hill
Fragrance: how it works, where it’s been and where it’s going By Alexis Bergman
Jessica Lincks, Jessica Wolcott
music to our ears
director of sales and marketing
Sweet summer sounds: from Spaghetti Westerns to Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin
mixtape darlings
Local darling Molly Sullivan goes solo after the No No Knots disband
American idol(atry)
A glimpse into global beauty standards By Elle Morris
28 projects & recipes make your own
It’s leg season! Smooth and replenish with this antioxidant rich berry body scrub
cookbook
Summer Genetti takes the “bake” out of baking
homemade happy hour
One tequila, two tequila, three tequila...with green tea simple syrup
Interns
Chuck Davis Advertising Account Specialist
Shannon Loeffler Advertising Account managers
Tony Frank, Lauren Faulkner, Katharine Harrow, Hilary Snyder, Tracy Walker, Neil White Circulation Manager Steve Ferguson BUSINESS Manager Jeff Dorsey receivables Latha Mannava administrative assistant Brandi Ballou events and marketing
Sara Beiting, Brittany Huffman Publishers Dan Bockrath, John Fox On the cover PRETTY STUFF Entire contents are copyright 2011 Lightborne Publishing Inc. and may not be reprinted in whole or in part without prior written permission from the publishers.
a-linemagazine.com |
4 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
tiny bits
A collection of A-Line’s favorite odds and ends
letter from the editor The French have a saying, “Bien dans sa peau,” which basically translates as “to feel good in your own skin.” I don’t have French skin, despite my best cosmetic efforts, but I do happen to be on the receiving end of that endless American genetic roulette which has blessed me with a pale, pasty Finnish complexion and dark, coarse Italian body hair. A less than fortunate combination. (I knew how to bleach my mustache before I learned to shave my armpits). But, as with all things, beauty is never skin-deep. However, you are allowed to decorate the surface (Oprah said so). So this month we’re focusing on all things beautiful, from a whimsical fashion spread of an impromptu garden party to our favorite beauty products to all the delicate, pretty everyday accents that make up la bella vita. Our stories examine the science of scent, take you around the world for a glimpse into global beauty standards and give you a sneak peek into a bold Cincinnati woman’s style—Leah Spurrier from HighStreet. Find lacey underpinnings, delicate glass bottles and other feminine ephemera in Tiny Bits. And a collection of our favorite coffee table books in the A-List. To be a woman is to be beautiful. Embrace who you are and you’ll thrive in the world that surrounds you, whether you’re wearing makeup or none. Or worn-out sweatpants instead of that little black dress. Take time to find inspiration in the everyday… or create it yourself. It’s your right as a woman—and a human—to feel beautiful, sensual, creative and in complete possession of who you are. —Maija Zummo
Glass Dish Urban Outfitters $10.00 Mary Green San Francisco Satin Eyemask Knickers, Hyde Park $24.75 Eloise Clouded Morning Bra and Panty Set Anthropologie $12.00$28.00 Queen City Delights Buttery Shortbread Bliss Cookie Nest, Hyde Park $4.50 Bunny Ring Holder Anthropologie $10.00 Fleurs Blanches Eau de Toilette Anthropologie $18.00 rani Necklace tree & kimble, Etsy$32.00 Compagnie de Provence Marseille Soap Nest, Hyde Park $28.00 ‘minted’ revlon nail polish Target $4.99
Tiny Bits stylist Garen Torchia works for Anthropologie as a Visual Sales Associate. a-linemagazine.com| JUNE 2011 | 5
{Compiled by Whitney Simon} photo by cameron knight 6 | LA BELLA VITA
Give your coffee table a visually delicious update with these artistic additions
the The Cincinnati Kid Charley Harper: An Illustrated Life is a visual fantasy that showcases some of Harper’s greatest achievements and gives an inside look into his life and work. From his early days at the Art Academy of Cincinnati to his later work at Ford Times magazine, this book is a whimsical journey through all the stages of Harper’s career. Party People Money, beauty and ambition may have landed them in the pages of Vogue, but it’s the pictures that truly say a thousand words. In The World in Vogue: People Parties Places, the editors and photographers of fashion’s “bible” present the best of what the magazine has to offer. Filled from beginning to end with pictures of celebrities, socialites, artists, politicians and (of course) models galore, this book showcases some of the most fascinating and astounding images the magazine has printed in its 100 years of existence. EYE OF THE BEHOLDER Originally published in 1982, Stephen Shore: Uncommon Places is a triumph in color photography. Everyday objects such as a lamppost, a produce stand or even a serving of fast food are no longer seen as obscure and insignificant but rather colorful backdrops
to our everyday lives. Largely influenced by Andy Warhol and Walker Evans, Shore looks beyond the camera lens to show us beauty in the commonplace.
A Perfect Mess
This is dedicated to all the mothers (mine included) who just can’t quite let the little messes go. In A Perfectly Kept House Is the Sign of a Misspent Life, Mary Randolph Carter takes us through some extraordinary, albeit somewhat disorderly, homes to give a different perspective on what constitutes a tidy abode. Carter takes us through the case history of women from all walks of life—mothers, artists, designers—and shows us that “at the worst, a house unkept cannot be so distressing as a life unlived.” Head of Her Class Edith Head: The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer examines the life and career of one of the most soughtafter costume designers of the 20th century. Head dressed some
list of the biggest names in Hollywood and earned 35 Academy Award nominations (more than any other women) for costume design, winning eight. A favorite of Alfred Hitchcock, Head gave the characters in each movie a presence without saying a word. Have a Seat A history lesson on where we plant our derrieres, Chairs takes you through a timeline of seating design, covering everything from Ancient Egyptian thrones to the Art Nouveau styles of the ‘50s. Judith Miller has cleverly showcased a wide variety of seating styles from classic (Queen Anne Open Armchair) to the more Baroque (Louis XV Fauteuil) to futuristic designs that seem more at home in space than one’s own living room. Designing Women As inspirational as it is educating, Decorate guides you through the layout of what decorating ultimately should be: fun and exciting. Filled with commentary from some of the world’s top design experts, every page opens to a room filled with possibilities and tips on how to make your house a stylish home. With splendid imagery of homes from across the globe, Decorate gives the blueprints (quite literally) on how to transform and have fun with the project at hand. a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 7
test kitchen
Product reviews from A-Line’s favorite friends
A longwearing lipcolor that braves 16 hours of brunch, smooching and workouts...all without feathering, bleeding or drying? Outlast Lipcolor by Covergirl $9.95 at CVS
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Garen: 23
Brandi: 25
Shade: Red Cashmere
I’ve wanted to start wearing lipstick for a while. This was a good way to start. Outlast comes with a lipstick and clear gloss, which you apply together, but you could just use the gloss alone. It lasted my entire work day and didn’t even rub off on the lid of my coffee (which says a lot). I liked that the gloss wasn’t sticky at all—I couldn’t even tell I was wearing anything. Next time I’d like to try a bolder color.
✳ ✳ ✳ ✳ ✳ Lauren: Aged to Perfection
Shade: Pink Pearl
The label says not to rub your lips together for 60 seconds or until color dries, but 20 years of smacking my lips together after application made me forget the warning. Outlast stayed on for hours as promised (throughout an entire Easter dinner), but since I can’t follow directions I’m sticking with easily removed clear lip glosses from now on so I don’t look like I made out with Ronald McDonald.
BEAUTY LERT
Shade: Nude
Outlast offers lots of good color options, but the wand and consistency of the lipcolor made application less than precise. The color stayed through 12 hours of errands, talking, eating, drinking and even a kiss or two, but it looks unnaturally dull and dry without the very glossy topcoat. Unfortunately that doesn’t last and must be reapplied more than my moisturizing lipstick.
{by elle morris}
Advice from the Vice President & General Manager of LPK Beauty
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eauty begins with your skin. At least that’s what my mother told me when I was 13. She sat me down and said, ”From now on, wash your face every night and put a moisturizer on. Never, ever go to bed with makeup on, no matter how tired you are. Stay out of the sun. When you’re 40 you will thank me.” Well, thank you, Mom. If you don’t have a skincare routine, ladies, please get one—pronto. If you’re into simplicity, don’t pick a high maintenance regimen. If cost is an issue, there are plenty of great skincare lines at grocery/drug stores. Overwhelmed? My personal grocery store fave is Olay ProX. In my humble opinion it delivers the results that it promises (not all skincare brands do that). Start with their regimen kits—it’s the best way to ease into skincare if the concept is foreign to you. If you’re really willing to invest to avoid plastic surgery, SKII Skincare is the best skincare line out there—it’s my holy grail of skincare. Nothing makes my skin as clear, radiant or soft. It’s manufactured in Japan and contains Pitera essence. I am a loyalist to this brand. (That’s saying a lot as you get to know me—I try everything out there). Your skin is a valuable asset. It’s your beauty canvas. Even $1,000 makeup doesn’t look good on bad skin.
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{mirror, mirror}
Party Pretty STEP 1: Start with bare eyelids. Apply cream shadow with a touch of shimmer to the lid all the way to the brow. Use a synthetic brush or your finger to distribute the shadow evenly for sheer coverage. STEP 2: Using a synthetic brush, add a darker cream matte eye shadow in a brownish color in the crease up against the brow bone, blending out toward the end of your eyebrow. You should be able to see color above and behind the lashes when you open your eyes. STEP 3: Dust a translucent powder over the whole eye to set the look and create a barrier. STEP 4: Take a decent amount of matte pink eye shadow and tap it along the lash line with a thick pencil brush or a medium synthetic brush. {Instructions by megan kelly} photos by thomas stemrich and josh chiara
J
une is the month for weddings, parties, graduations, babies and a plethora of other events that require you to show up in something other than sweatpants and ChapStick. This simple, photography-friendly formal makeup look is perfect for special occasions.
tips
TO MAKE IT EVEN EASIER...
Avoid using only shimmery shadows; they flatten the appearance of the eyelid Bronzer can double as eye shadow
STEP 5: Using a soft brush, apply bronzer in a light tapping motion into the crease along the brow bone. Work out toward the end of the brow. STEP 6: Using an angled brush, work along the lash line with a deep berry colored powder shadow. Once color is established, blend to the outside corner of the eye using a pencil brush. CONTINUES ON PAGE 10
Fingers make a great blending tool Flatten your lid by looking down and out to the side when applying eyeliner Use an angled brush with liquid liner For a longwearing lip look, fill in lips with a neutral pencil, dust with translucent powder and then apply lipstick
Megan Kelly studied Theatrical Design at the University of Cincinnati’s College-Conservatory of Music and cosmetology at Aveda Fredrick’s Institute and is a certified artist with M.A.C.
a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 9
Karen Kremer kremerk@nationwide.com CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9
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STEP 7: Apply black liquid liner in little dashes close to your eyelashes. STEP 8: Mix a soft brown and a little bit of black on a medium flat synthetic brush. Apply to the outer corner of the eye, directly under the brow bone. STEP 9: Starting at the highest point of the brow and dragging down, add a shimmery champagne colored highlight powder. A small soft pencil brush works best for a subtle look.
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STEP 10: Line the inside of the bottom eyelid with a black kohl liner. STEP 11: Apply basic black mascara (waterproof if you plan on crying) in a back-and-forth motion to the top lashes. Then a bit on the bottom. STEP 12: To finish the eye, add a purple shimmery eye shadow underneath the lower lashes using an angled brush. Add a touch in the corner of the outside of the lid directly above your eyeliner.
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STEP 13: Now for the rest of the face. Apply a concealer that’s a bit lighter than your skin tone only were you need it. Go back and blend the concealer with your finger or synthetic brush. STEP 14: Foundation should enhance skin so go for something with light coverage. Tinted moisturizer works well and photographs beautifully. Start application in the middle of the face and blend outward with a foundation brush. Set with a translucent powder. STEP 15: Lips could go either way because the eyes are the main attraction for this look. Pick a pink that best matches your natural lip color, or a little darker, in a gloss finish.
first look
White hot Keep cool, crisp and clean by paring a variety of wearable white shades, patterns and accessories
clockwise from left Maris T-Strap Sandal Banana Republic $59.50
Cecilia Dress J.Crew $158.00
white rabbit ring Target $14.99
Long Sleeve Tunic Top Gap $59.95
roll up short Banana Republic $49.50
Kimchi Blue All Lace Daisy Onsie Urban Outfitters $59.00
Elevenses Late Seating Blazer Anthropologie $98.00
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first look
the big easy Throw on these breezy oversized tunics for an effortless yet chic summer style
from left Pins and Needles Crochet Neck UK Blouse Urban Outfitters
O’Neill Shanzie Blouse Pangaea, Clifton
$59.00
$49.50
Mod Dots V-Neck Tunic Dress Caftan Old Navy New York & $29.94 Company
Moroccan Treasure Poncho Chico’s $79.00
$42.95
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first look
last straw Stave off summer’s UVA rays with a straw fedora or bold sun hat
clockwise from left Straw Hat with Polka Dot Sash Charming Charlie $24.97
Buckle Fedora Gap $29.95
Raffia Straw Fedora Banana Republic $45.00 Poppie Jones Straw Hat DSW $19.95 Caribbean Joe Multicolored Straw Hat Macy’s $48.00
Flower Fedora Old Navy $14.94
Gibson Girl Striped Hat J.Crew $36.50 Raffia sun hat White House Black Market $68.00
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An impromptu garden party feels luxuriously ethereal with tone-on-tone pairings, soft jackets, bows, chunky jewels and a touch of sparkle
Outfits, from left to right: On Riana: straw sun hat, Banana Republic; Free People Lovely Lace dress and ez scarf, Kismet. On Pooja: frill scarf, Kismet; soft silk collared jacket, Anthropologie; cream shirt, snap Boutique; new cafe capri pants, J.Crew; Dolce Vita Jade platform wedge, The Wardrobe. On Kelli: vintage peach dress, Atomic Number 10; bronze woven belt, Monkees; Sofft Castello patent sandal, Monkees. On Riana: Parker sequin dress, snap Boutique. On Pooja: Cady gold cuffed short, Soho; perforated white leather belt, J.Crew; necklace and ring, Monkees. On Kelli: Rebecca rouched dress, Monkees; woven gold Celtic belt and python clutch, Soho; Malene Bilas cream blazer, The Wardrobe. On Caroline: Lucky brass bracelet, The Wardrobe; Karina Grimaldi top, Soho; gold & peach chain necklace, Monkees; cream linen pant, The Wardrobe. Special thanks to Tiffany Cotterman, Brianne Shoupe and the students at the Aveda Fredric’s Institute Hair Brittany Berling, Elizabeth Huff, Sarah Mannix, Nicole Moore, Kristin Tobias, Kasey Whalen, Jon Wright Makeup Alicia Farley, Paris Nelson, Kira Richards, Jasdeep Singh Models Riana, Pooja and Caroline provided by New View Management Group
Styled by Jacqueline Burris and Kimberly Trejo {Photos by Tiffany Dawn Nicholson} a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 17
S
style sampled
ince 2006, Leah Spurrier has been bringing her brand of dynamic creativity to Cincinnati via lifestyle shop and design studio HighStreet. Originally from the South, Spurrier came to Ohio with a vision: to provide creative design services and stylish products for clever people. The beautifully decorated Liberty Hill home she shares with her husband of 18 years is the epitome of that philosophy: from her dressing room filled with carefully arranged clothes, shoes and jewelry (“I consider jewelry to be the iconography of womanhood�) to the ruggedly sophisticated dining room with its chandelier made of branches, her style is clearly covetable. highstreetcincinnati.com
Leah Spurrier Owner and Art Director, HighStreet {profile By tamia stinson} photos by tiffany dawn nicholson
18 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
See the world “I’m in travel mode right now to fulfill an insatiable need for visual and spiritual stimulation. I am planning to visit Croatia soon.”
Dream team “HighStreet is a beautiful bubble. We work hard, but everyone is cool. We do a lot of laughing.”
Made for walkin’ “I love cowboy boots, and I have a great dressing room with an enormous old dental cabinet filled with my collection of wellorganized jewels.”
Salad daze “Real Mexican food is the best— soulful, complex and brilliant! I’ve got this obsessive thing for Vietnamese. And I myself make a mean salad.”
Aesthetica “I’m a freak about beauty-—I must be in my own aesthetic surroundings. I’m that fruitcake that decorates hotel rooms with my clothes, shoes and scarves!“
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By Alexis Bergman {illustration by julie hill}
From the aroma of morning coffee to a spritz of your favorite fine fragrance, we swim in a sea of scents.
20 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
Wine + Food = New
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Scents evaporate more quickly on dry skin. If you want your fragrance to last longer, spray it on right after you come out of the shower when your pores are more open. Or apply an unscented moisturizer—a fragrance will linger longer on well-moisturized skin because it needs skin oils to help it “stick.” When I first started my assignment at P&G, I was a bit embarrassed that I didn’t know the difference between Eau de Toilette and Perfume. “Perfume,” “Eau de Perfume” and “Eau de Toilette” can all be differentiated based on the concentration of perfumed oils in a solution versus the amount of water or alcohol. Perfumes, the most potent and longest lasting of fragrances, contain the highest concentration of extracts: 20-25 percent concentrated aromatics. Eau de Perfume and Eau de Toilette, respectively, decline in their concentration of perfumed oils. A perfume is similar to a musical composition,
ip
Hottest
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abies begin to develop their sense of smell in the womb as early as nine weeks. And because this sense is developed from such an early stage, humans’ sense of smell is extremely complex. Indeed, smell is directly linked to the limbic system in the brain where emotions and memories are triggered. People tend to gravitate toward scents that evoke positive memories. For example, the smell of a dessert similar to your mothers’s signature chocolate birthday cake may bring you back to a positive, happy occasion. Since fragrance is so linked to your inherent mood, environment and memories, it can also represent how you’re feeling or want to be perceived. Fragrance accentuates your personality. It’s like that extra little touch or accessory that completes an overall look. Much like your wardrobe, the fragrances you choose signify your style and mood. Over the last few months I have been fortunate enough to learn from some of the world’s most talented perfumers and scientists in my job as a trend forecaster with the fragrance specialists at Procter & Gamble (P&G). With these lessons, my senses have been pleasantly (and sometimes unpleasantly) amplified. However, as someone trained in trend forecasting, it always helps me to know where an industry has been in order to anticipate its future. And I find it’s always best to start with the basics. Why does a perfume you like on your friend smell different (or sometimes awful) on you? Why do fragrances smell different in the summer versus the winter? Weather, body chemistry and even mood can all impact the way a fragrance smells. Everyone’s skin chemistry is different. Skin absorbency, dryness, acidity, diet and hormones can all affect a fragrance.
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CONTINUES ON PAGE 22
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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21
created from notes. Perfumers have a range of approximately 15 odor families to work with when creating fragrances, and each of the odor families has dozens of materials to choose from. Some odor families include: Citrus (bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit), Aromatic, Leather, Aquatic, Wood (cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, guaiac wood, vetiver), Musk, Moss, Amber, Spice, Tobacco, Green (dewy, leafy, earthy humid sap notes, stemmy hyacinth), Floral (rose, violet, orange blossom), Herbaceous, Fruit, and Balsamic. Think of each of these raw materials as the musical notes perfumers can choose from to make a fragrance symphony. Interestingly, while perfumers often use music as an analogy for
their craft, they also use similar language. Each perfume material has a pronounced note, or odor, that determines where and how it will function in the finished perfume. The individual notes are categorized by volatility (how quickly a material evaporates) and lasting quality as a top, middle or base note. A good perfume should consist of a balanced blend of notes arranged in a way that creates harmonious accord. Zerlina Dubois, P&G Master Perfumer, explains, “The top note is like a teaser—it’s what hooks you in when you first open the bottle and makes you want to come back for more.” Top notes tend to be highly volatile and diffusive but not very long lasting; they are the
Fragrance THROUGH TIME
There are no revolutions
or blips on the historical fragrance map. Similar
to individual fragrance preferences, which are based on past events,
emotions and memories, socio-cultural events
have direct links to both fragrance and fashion
trends. See how fragrance evolutions morph over
time from the classics
to modern and innovative interpretations on this
timeline of fragrance history. 22 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
Antiquity: Fragrance had a significant role in early civilization for religious purposes. As far back as 1700 BC, the Bible specifically referenced commerce in aromatic materials, “camels bearing Spicery, Balm and Myrrh” (Genesis 37:25).
Middle Ages: Fragrant herbs, known for their special medicinal healing properties, were burned in towns to cover up and eliminate the malodors brought upon by poor hygiene. Crusaders not only brought back raw materials but also techniques for how to grow the herbs themselves.
17th Century: Modern perfumery has its roots in the 17th Century in Grasse, France. Major users of modern perfumery were glove makers who experimented with essences from regional flowers and plants to scent gloves. At that time, the material that was used to cure leather left an unpleasant odor. Perfume covered the tanning odor and led to the popularity of scented gloves.
19th Century: The Industrial Revolution led to breakthroughs in the world of fragrance. Many new fragrant chemicals were identified and added to the perfumer’s palette. New analytical chemistry tools facilitated the development of more complex and innovative creations.
first impression of a perfume. Middle notes are moderately volatile and somewhat long lasting; they make up the heart of a fragrance. Meanwhile, the base notes, like galbanum, patchouli or musk, have very low volatility and last longer. Dubois’ theory on a woman’s experimentation with fragrance dependends on her stage in life. A woman in her teens/early twenties may be trying to define her overall look. From fashion to fragrance, she is likely to experiment with a range of scents and looks that could eventually define her. Popular fragrances for this age group tend to be fruity and/or floral. As a woman begins to settle down and perhaps start a family, she
20th Century: In 1911, Paul Poiret introduced the concept of high-end fashion designer fragrances. He was one of the first creatives who identified an opportunity for fragrance to serve as a fashion accessory. With that, he opened Parfums de Rosine, a company that produced fragrances as accessories for his fashion designs.
1920s: Coco Chanel took women out of their stiff clothes and created an easy-to-wear style. The perfume she developed in collaboration with perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921 had a similar sensibility. Chanel No. 5 was most famous for its generous use of aldehydes—powerful new synthetics. The formula was a milestone in creative perfumery. And the bottle was inspired by a men’s cologne; simple and very unexpected for the time.
tends to put her experimental days aside. Her priorities go beyond herself—she chooses fragrances that appeal to her as well as those around her. She starts to become a bit more conservative in what she tries. Notes may include fresh, crisp, green fragrances. When the children start to leave the nest, a woman often starts to experiment again. Now she tests out more sophisticated, upscale notes like fragrances with fresh or luxurious gourmand characteristics. As for me, my recent immersion into the world of scent is changing the way I shop, dress and even the way I look at others. Now when I go in a department store, I open every cap or bottle and sniff. When I walk into the
1930s: In 1931, Jean Patou, Parisian high fashion designer, created Joy, which at the time was the world’s most expensive perfume. His floral blend of the most expensive ingredients—the oil of Bulgarian rose and absolute of French jasmine—was intended to be “free of vulgarity, cost what it may.” In 1937, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced her Shocking Pink fragrance. It was shocking because the bottle design was based on Mae West’s famous silhouette.
1980s: The opulence of the 1980s, from Dynasty to big shoulder pads, led to the birth of extroverted fragrances like Giorgio and Poison, with memorable floral top notes and pungent Oriental essences. The ‘80s also saw the continued rise of designer fragrances. Designer Carla Fendi remarked, “The dream of any design house is to have its own proper fragrance…when a woman gets dressed, the final touch is her fragrance.”
grocery store and see the floral department, I want to go and smell the real version of Jasmine or Lily. My exploration doesn’t stop at the store: I am deeply conscious of the fragrances I select and the messages they send, as well as how they make me feel. I continually change what fragrances I wear to coordinate with a certain outfit, to fit my mood or even for a particular occasion. Paying attention to scent is inspirational, rewarding and can make you feel fantastically feminine. As Coco Chanel said, “Perfume is the unseen but unforgettable and ultimate fashion accessory. It heralds a woman’s arrival and prolongs her departure.”
1990s: Simplicity ruled fragrances in the 1990s. With softer, subtle and lighter notes, it was a time for more innocent, natural, fruity and herbal notes. Issey Miyake’s 1992 L’eau d’Issey fragrance and bottle design signified the minimalist trends of this time.
2000s: In the 2000s, events such as September 11 and the economic downturn pushed consumers toward fragrances that brought a sense of comfort. In 2007, Marc Jacobs introduced Daisy, a fragrance defined by refreshing green notes, to bring about some sensibility of this hope and sense of rebirth. More recently, you’ll see a yearning for fragrances that bring about happy, more optimistic times, such as Coach’s Poppy or Kate Spade’s Twirl.
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music to our ears What we’re listening to now.
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Grammy Award winning producer Danger Mouse has teamed up with Italian composer Daniele Luppi to create the Spaghetti Western inspired album Rome. Danger Mouse is the mastermind behind many successful team-ups in the past. (In 2004, he made a seemingly unlikely match with the accapellas of Jay-Z’s Black Album and the instrumentals of The Beatles’ White Album to create the Grey Album.) Rome pays homage to the prolific and influential film composer Ennio Morricone. It brings together many of the surviving performers of Morricone’s early scores and pairs them with the vocals of Norah Jones and Jack White. Start in the beginning: “Theme of Rome” (guest starring Edda Dell’Orso of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly soundtrack)
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I’m ready for summer, and thanks to Brian Olive there’s a soundtrack for the season. The former Greenhornes and Soledad Brothers member has followed up his 2009 self-titled solo debut with Two of Everything (out June 7). Recorded at the Diamonds Building (right here in Cincinnati) with Dan Auerbach of The Black Keys, there are clear signs of the garage/blues sound you could come to expect from Olive and Auerbach’s past recordings. But with that is the welcome influence of Memphis soul, New Orleans funk and even a nod to ‘60s girl groups with female backing vocals on a handful of tracks. The dreamy, wailing voices are put up against fuzzy synthesizers, woodwinds and brass. Two of Everything should be played over the loud-speakers at pool parties, cookouts, and—here’s hoping—a summer celebratory crawfish boil. (Invite me, please. I’ve never been to one.) Summer Cut: “Traveling”
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Serge Gainsbourg/Jane Birkin (Serge Gainsbourg et Jane Birkin; see, I can speak French!) was released for the first time in the U.S last year on the Light In The Attic label. It’s an album of solos and duets by the two known most famously for the single “Je T’aime...Non Mon Plus”. In short she says, “I love you,” to which he replies, “Neither do I,” which is confusing, but haven’t we all been there in some relationship or another? Birkin’s presence and falsetto up againt Gainsbourg’s deep, deadpan, very French singspeak style lay perfectly against the moody arrangements of organs and strings. A perfect escape from Midwest heat to a better, cooler, French-ier place. Obviously: Je T’aime...Non Mon Plus Taryn Tegarden taught a chicken to play “Chopsticks” on a keyboard. She is a vegetarian.
24 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
Track 1: tUnE-yArDs, BiRd BrAiNs —“OK, I know it isn’t one song, but the album BiRd BrAiNs by tUnE-yArDs is unreal. Do yourself a favor and listen to it in its entirety.” Track 2: Yeah Yeah Yeahs, “Y Control”—“I love the YYY’s earlier stuff, this just being a badass track that I never get sick of.” Track 3: Menomena, “Muscle’n Flo”—“One track from an album (Friend and Foe) I would encourage you to listen all the way through. The production on this album is amazing and it is one I simply love revisiting.” Track 4: Little Dragon, “Never Never”— “Yukimi Nagano’s voice is so seductive and plays around in a way that I’ve never heard before. Subtle layers and sweet vocals lend themselves to catchy yet unabrasive pop.” Track 5: The Cardigans, “Lovefool”— “Nineties awesomeness. I realize that it might have been overplayed for some of you, but please don’t hate. It’s so much fun!” Track 6: The National, “Afraid of Everyone”— “OK, I missed the boat on these guys and this song was the first I’d ever paid attention to…and it was on accident.“ {interview by amy wray} photo by tiffany dawn nicholson
{mixtape darlings} The no no knots’
Molly Sullivan goes solo
M
any who follow the Cincinnati music scene will recognize the sweet and airy voice of Molly Sullivan, former lead singer of the No No Knots, as she ventures out on her own. (The No No Knots recently disbanded to pursue other musical opportunities.) Sullivan is swimming in ambition and has many projects in the works. “I have recorded a number of things over the past year and a half on my own that I challenged myself to embrace simplicity with and am really proud of how they turned out,” she says. Her sound walks a thin line between pop and folk as she kindly strums her guitar. She’s been compared to the likes of Mirah, Joanna Newsom and Karen-O. Keep a look out this summer for Sullivan as she plans to play several solo acoustic shows around town, or visit MollySullivan.bandcamp.com to download her latest tracks.
Track 7: Issa Bagayogo, “Namadjidja”—“In the past year or so I have been getting my hands into all sorts of world music, Malian being some of my favorite. This song is beautiful, and if you can get good bass on it, I recommend doing just that.” Track 8: Bobbie Gentry, “Ode to Billie Joe”— “This song is beautiful, simple storytelling. One of my all time favorites.” Track 9: Robyn, “Dancing On My Own”— “Some honest to goodness great pop! Not a guilty pleasure. An undeniably great song that I sing along and dance in my underwear to around my apartment, using various household objects as microphones.” Track 10: Doggie Hi Yippee, “Inigo Montoya”—“You’ve never heard of this group before. A friend of mine played drums for them at Rhode Island School of Design in Providence. I don’t know how you would find a copy of this song, save from my burnt disc that I’ve had for years, but I love it.” a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 25
how we define beauty and how it defines us {by Elle Morris}
I
t starts when we’re young. We notice how the “pretty little girls” are treated differently. Perhaps teachers treat them in a special way or the boys have crushes on them. Depending on who we are and where we’re from, they look different. I grew up in Fairfield County, Conn., the land of Martha Stewart (before she was famous), WASP country where the ideal beauty was blondehaired, blue-eyed, tan-skinned, thin-bodied perfection. As a chubby, auburn-haired, greeneyed, fair-skinned tomboy, I embodied none of those characteristics. I tried to transform myself and conform to these standards of beauty by dying my skin a lovely shade of orange (thank you, Quick Tan), by attempting to become the blonde that everyone envied, but again I somehow ended up with hair in another lovely shade of orange (thank you, “Summer Blonde”), and dieting myself silly only to fail repeatedly. All of this failure came before the age of 14. If I could never be blonde, thin and tan, what was to become of me? No one would love me. How would I get a boyfriend? How would I get into college? How would I get a job? Even before I could
Envying someone else’s standard of beauty leaves you miserable and broke, quickly.
drive a car, my life was in ruins. Does any of this resonate with you? Chances are it does, and I bet you can describe similar experiences with tanners, dyes, diets. The works. You might wonder if this is just an American phenomenon, but it’s not. I’ve talked to women all over the world about this very issue and listened to their own insights on what beauty is from their perspective. Across cultures, women are striving for their own ideal of beauty. On a trip this fall to the Singapore office of LPK (the international brand design agency headquartered in Cincinnati), I was stunned to see beautiful, young Malaysian women with naturally stunning dark skin and dark hair sporting bright blonde highlights, blue contacts and lightened skin. In this area of the world, they aspire to a Western standard of beauty. Imagine my shock, while shopping in Seoul, Korea, to be assisted by a young woman with blue contacts and plastic surgery on her eyelids to make them look more Caucasian. She was very pale, a trait that is highly prized in Asian cultures, with light brown hair. All of this didn’t make her look Caucasian; it made her look eerily pretty— like a character in a sci-fi movie. In any case, eyelid surgery is currently one of the most popular procedures in Japan and Korea. When an LPK colleague and I were in India doing research with women in the slums of Mumbai, we were
genuinely surprised to find that even though these women lived on a $2- to $4-a-day income, the one beauty product they each had in common was a skin whitener called “Fair and Lovely.” The advertising for this product literally depicts a “Cinderella-like” transformation for women who use it, all because their skin turns a few shades lighter. If you’re anything like me, you probably think this is crazy. These women are bleaching their skin, surgically reshaping their eyes, spending what little income they have on products to transform themselves based on empty promises. But before we judge too quickly, as Americans we dye our skin to look darker; we pay surgeons to implant artificial pods full of chemicals to make our breasts and buttocks look bigger; we spend thousands of dollars on hair that we buy from other human beings and then have it sewn onto our own heads; or we pay hundreds of dollars to have Botulism poison injected into our faces to freeze wrinkles. We spend far more than a few cents on the promise of transformation. Most of us are guilty of falling prey to our society’s standards of beauty. We are fed a steady diet of beauty standards from an early age. Our mothers and grandmothers teach us about their own beauty
ideals from whatever our ethnic backgrounds are (in my case, my Cuban grandmother prized my fair skin and my green eyes). And then Hollywood gets to us (at much younger ages these days), with images of thin, tall, blonde women with tan skin and large breasts as the standard symbol of beauty across the U.S. Of course, there are exceptions like JLo, Kim Kardashian and Halle Berry. But they’re rare (and they still have to exercise). Here’s the deal: I wish I knew myself 20 years ago. I could have saved myself a lot of pain—and cash. All of us are beautiful. Envying someone else’s standard of beauty leaves you miserable and broke, quickly. Beauty comes in all different shapes, sizes and colors. There is no single standard. Trust me. Define what makes you stunning and makes you feel good about you. Create your own standard of beauty and then buy the products that enhance it. Whatever you do, do it for you, not for anyone else. The biggest secret is this: If you feel beautiful and you have made yourself look good according to your own standards, others will notice. You’ll be treated as a beautiful woman because you are. This is a global principle. Trust me. I’ve been around the globe enough to prove it. Elle Morris has beauty in her blood. As Vice President & General Manager of LPK Beauty, both clients and friends know her as a “beauty junkie.” Throughout her career she has helped build and revitalize beauty brands around the globe, working with partners in North America, Latin America, Asia, Europe and India to develop an understanding of beauty’s transformative power.
a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 27
235 Teas from Around the World Largest Tea Selection in the Midwest ~
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Pre-Order by phone 513-549-8623 or at CakeRackBakery.com Visit Us Saturdays & Sundays at Findlay Market & Select a Delight!
28 | JUNE 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
Smooth your summer skin with a Seasonal, homemade body scrub
Use this body scrub to buff and purify. The berry seeds, sea salt and sugar work together to exfoliate at different intensities while the fruit delivers a high dose of antioxidants. Shake before use. Apply to a washcloth or loofah and massage gently onto your legs, arms and torso. If you haven’t used the scrub within a week, store the remainder in the refrigerator; the natural ingredients are perishable.
make the CONTAINER
STEP 1: Lay a sheet of wax paper down where you’ll be working to prevent the epoxy from sticking.
{make your own}
Berry Body Scrub materials
{Instructions & photos BY KRISTINA GERIG}
1 pint-size mason jar or 2 halfpint jars with lid and ring (you can find an assortment at your local craft store) 1 can of spray paint Marbles (20-30 per lid) Epoxy (J-B Weld or J-B Kwik) Wax paper Newspaper Colander 10 strawberries Handful of raspberries or blackberries Handful of blueberries ¼ cup jojoba oil or baby oil ½ cup brown or cane sugar 1 cup fine sea salt 10 toothpicks 8 cotton swabs Blender Paring knife Cutting board Kristina Gerig is a DAAP graduate, who currently designs for Nike in Portland, Ore. Her work has been featured in media publications such as Frame Magazine, PBS’ “Art21” and Design*Sponge.
STEP 2: Clean and dry the lid and the marbles. Contaminants like grease and oil will keep the epoxy and paint from adhering and drying properly. STEP 3: Thoroughly mix the epoxy on the wax paper with a cotton swab. Begin by epoxying the metal lid to the metal ring. Once that has dried enough to remain secure, apply a small dab of epoxy to each marble and position them along the bottom rim of the ring. STEP 4: Once the epoxy has dried according to the manufacturer’s intructions, move the lid to a well-ventilated area to spray paint. Protect the surrounding surfaces with newspaper. STEP 5: Arrange the toothpicks under the lid in a star pattern. Propping the lid will keep it from sticking to the newspaper while you paint. STEP 6: Spray paint the lid in light coats, upside down before painting right side up. Paint while you move around the lid at various angles for full coverage. Allow the paint to dry per instructions. STEP 7: Once you’ve completely coated the lid, let it dry while you mix the body scrub.
make the Body Scrub
STEP 1: Organize all the ingredients, measuring tools and kitchenware. STEP 2: Remove stems from the strawberries. STEP 3: Wash all berries in the colander. STEP 4: Puree the berries in a blender with jojoba oil, sugar and salt. STEP 5: Pour the body scrub into the glass jar and seal with the lid.
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about the chef
The Classic Kosher Bagel Shop Serving Cincinnati Since 1969! Vaad Hoier Approved 9701 Kenwood Road Blue Ash, OH 45242 (513) 891-5548 Mon-Fri 6am – 9pm Sat & Sun 6am – 8pm
F
rom the underbellies of former culinary gems Pho Paris and Chalk to the current award-winning The Palace restaurant in the Cincinnatian Hotel, Summer Genetti has been reminding diners that dessert is integral to a complete dining experience, not an afterthought. Although Genetti has made a career out of creating elaborate financiers, tarts, sorbets and the like, she has a genuine appreciation for the kitchen she grew up in. Her “No Bake Cheese Pie” is a realistic portrayal of a chef raised in a post-Atomic Era. “I feel such recipes are a part of our birthright,” says Genetti. “Ours was the first generation to see almost every home convert into a two income household. With that came a drastic change in how family meals were prepared and served, speed becoming the most important factor.” “I feel we’re finally on the cusp of a balance between whole and healthful ingredients and inventive techniques to get the food on the table, butts in the seats and smiles on faces.” This recipe satisfied everyone at young Genetti’s family table— her mother because she could come home from work and interact with her daughters by making the pie together, and Genetti and her sister because the pie is delicious. As Genetti developed her cooking talents, she created variations of the dessert: tiny glasses of “cheesecake shots” served with demitasse spoons; Key Lime pie dip with Swedish ginger snaps; honey goat cheese tartlets. Although unsure of the origins of the recipe (she imagines it comes from a magazine or even a cream cheese package) Genetti vows, “It’s not going anywhere anytime soon!” 30 | june 2011 | LA BELLA VITA
PROFILE BY TESS HAMMONS {RECIPE BY SUMMER GENETTI} photos by tiffany dawn nicholson
{cookbook}
NO BAKE
CHEESE PIE
STEP 1: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment beat cream cheese until there are no lumps. Scrape the sides of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula.
STEP 2: Add sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. Beat on medium high until smooth. Stop the mixer, scrape down the sides of the bowl and pour in the lemon juice.
STEP 3: Start mixing on low so the lemon juice doesn’t fly out. Increase speed to medium high and beat until smooth. STEP 4: Pour contents of the bowl into a prepared graham cracker crust and chill for 2 hours or until set.
tips Serving suggestions and delightful substitutions:
ingredients 8 oz. cream cheese (softened) 14 oz. sweetened condensed milk 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 graham cracker pie crust
Slice fresh strawberries and toss with a little sugar and St-Germaine (Elderflower Liquor) Use Nellie & Joe’s Key West Lime Juice or fresh Key Lime juice instead of lemon juice to make a Key Lime pie Try gingersnaps, vanilla wafers, shortbread cookies, pecan sandies or coconut macaroons instead of graham cracker for the crust Make a Honey Goat Cheese Tart by replacing 3 oz. of cream cheese with fresh goat cheese and 2 Tbsp of the sweetened condensed milk with honey a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 31
meet our mixologist
C
harles H. Baker Jr. is one of my all time favorite cocktail writers. Baker had a dream job! He spent most of the 1930s and ‘40s traveling the world and chronicling food and drink recipes for magazines like Esquire, Town & Country and Gourmet. Reading one of his articles takes you back to a golden era when seeing the world by ocean liner was elegant and reserved for the beautiful people. It would be a dream come true if I could get my hands on a copy of The Molly Wellmann Gentleman’s Companion Volumes I and II. These exotic recipe collections feature unusual alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages Baker personally collected from every continent. Both volumes are long out of print, so the chance of finding one of them—much less both—is highly unlikely. But I love bringing back many of his recipes, including the one I have for you this month: Armillita Chico! According to Baker, Armillita Chico was the idol of Mexico. In the 1930s, Chico was the foremost bullfighter known for his skill and gracefulness. Tequila was not a popular cocktail mixer in the ‘30s. It was normally consumed as a shot with lime and salt. Baker, however, loved cocktails, so while in Mexico he created the Armillita Chico and dedicated it to the most beautiful bullfighter of all time. I wanted to put my own spin on the Armillita Chico so I replaced one of the original ingredients, grenadine, with homemade green tea simple syrup to make it a little bit lighter and bring out some of the beautiful flavors of a Maestro Dobel blanco tequila! Cheers! Molly Wellmann is an award-winning mixologist and craft cocktail diva; a true classic with a quirk.
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{happy hour}
ARMILLITA CHICO {RECIPE BY MOLLY WELLMAN} PHOTOS BY JESSE FOX
ingredients 1 ½ oz. Maestro Dobel blanco tequila ½ oz. lime ½ oz. green tea simple syrup Dash of orange flower water Orange twist
ARMILLITA CHICO
STEP 1: Put all ingredients in cocktail shaker, add ice. And shake, shake, shake (about 15-20 shakes). STEP 2: Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with an orange twist.
Green Tea Simple Syrup
STEP 1: Take 1 oz. loose green tea (you can use any kind of green tea from places such as Essencha Tea House in Oakley). STEP 2: Combine with 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan. Bring just to a boil and turn off the heat. STEP 3: Let sit for 3 minutes and strain out the tea. Let cool and put syrup in a bottle.
a-linemagazine.com | JUNE 2011 | 33
ANCIEN
EST
NOUVEAU
A Boutique Consignment Shoppe
3071 Madison Rd Oakley, OH. 513-386-9885 HOURS Tues.-Sat. 10-6
street style
LE MONDE
Lauren Moore, Fountain square Take black and white basics to the next level with a brightly colored bag. Add neutral wedge sandals and a pair of stunning shades for bona fide summertime flair. Betsey johnson sunglasses T.J.Maxx $14.99
earrings The Little Mahatma, Over-the-Rhine $24.00
vince striped top Saks Fifth Avenue $98.00
marc jacobs classic q little ukita satchel Saks Fifth Avenue $398.00
Shirred knee-length skirt American Apparel, Clifton Heights $28.00
Steve Madden fantasik wedge Macy’s $79.00
Tamia Stinson is the culprit behind the fashion and lifestyle blog TheStyleSample.com and works as a freelance graphic designer and marketing consultant.
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