Wine enthusiast, vol 25, issue 5, may 2012 buying guide by VictorC

BUYING GUIDE MAY 2012

Freshly-harvested Brunello grapes, a clone of Sangiovese planted in Montalcino and used to produce the region’s renowned wine, from Col d’Orcia’s vineyard.

2 ITALY 29 FRANCE 31 SPAIN 34 OTHER OLD WORLD 35 SOUTH AFRICA 38 AUSTRALIA 41 ARGENTINA 46 CALIFORNIA 59 WASHINGTON

Clay McLachlan

63 SPIRITS 65 BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WineMag.com | 1

ITALY

THE 95-POINT 2007 VINTAGE IN BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

he 2007 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely expression of variety and territory—a true celebration of this austere yet sophisticated red wine from southern Tuscany. As Italian Editor for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, I was among the first to blind taste through the new vintage and found it to be one of the most exciting vintages since the start of the millennium. Following an intense tasting of some 250 wines at the local vintners’ association headquarters in Montalcino, I scored the 2007 vintage 95 points on our 100-point scale. The 2006 vintage earned 93 points last year, and both vintages were given a maximum five stars by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. So what sets 2007 apart? The strong cola or menthol-like notes of licorice, dried ginger, cured meat and white pepper, or as the Italians refer to these characteristics, note balsamiche. These delicate and compelling aromas are unique to Sangiovese. It’s a pleasure to find such harmony and consistency in a single vintage.

TUSCANY 2007 BRUNELLO

Capanna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Capanna’s offering in 2007 is extremely bold, dark and opulent. Loads of aromatic momentum in the form of blackberry, cherry liqueur, spice, leather, tobacco, rum cake, cinnamon, vanilla bean and bitter chocolate characterize the bouquet. The wine also shows a soft, ripe, generous texture, yet remains well-contained and balanced. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

Casanova di Neri 2007 Tenuta Nuova (Brunello di Montalcino). Gorgeous, opulent and rich, Tenuta Nuova is an unforgettable wine. It has body, power, persistence and loads of plush personality. It is layered with chocolate, cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and savory notes. There’s a deep mineral layer as well. Compelling and lovely. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $79

Luce della Vite 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Luce della Vite opens with an opulent, generous style and is packed with black cherry, black currant, cola, leather and pipe tobacco. This is a plush, rich and deeply textured wine, with plenty of intensity and staying power. It shows dense tannins with a touch of youthful astringency. Age 10 more years. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $93 abv: NA

Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selec-

tion. abv: 14.5%

The 2006 vintage was characterized by higher acidity and long aging potential. But overall, the wines are sharper, linear and more austere than in 2007. On the other hand, the 2007 vintage is soft, round and opulent, and shows incredible aromatic intensity. Yet it still delivers firm structure and enough power for aging. Sangiovese Grosso is a naturally acidic variety, with freshness that’s very well balanced in 2007. The fruit component in this vintage is rich with black currant and wild berry. While past vintages have been dominated by bold cherry, the 2007 is more nuanced. These wines are ready to drink sooner than is typical for the wines of the region, but they also show excellent aging potential because of their firm, velvety structures. The ripeness of their tannins makes them generous and approachable. Most estates performed consistently well in 2006 and 2007, though there was more variability in 2006. The 2007 vintage, with its cool summer and dry conditions, showed positive results across the Montalcino area, even in the coolest, north-facing subzones. —Monica Larner

Price: $75

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Casanova di Neri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This 2007 Brunello is a big, opulent pleasure bomb with lavish layers, loaded thickly on top of each other: Chocolate fudge, dark cherry, blackberry preserves, rum cake, prune, exotic spice, pipe tobacco, cola, humus and leather. It shows huge personality, intensity and staying power, too. All that density is backed by solid tannins and a steady firmness. Hold 10–15 years. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Castelgiocondo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. From Tuscany’s celebrated Frescobaldi wine family, Brunello Castelgiocondo opens with dark, inky concentration and bold aromas of pressed rose, black cherry, exotic spice, leather and unsweetened chocolate. It is beautifully put together, with ample intensity, balance, complexity and silkiness on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

La Gerla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Ripe fruit and red cherry, with spice, cinnamon and wood shop aromas, characterize the youthful bouquet of La Gerla’s latest Brunello. But there’s also a pretty mineral tone that gives the nose backbone and definition. It is delicate and feminine in the mouth, with elegant flavors of wild berry and blue flower that will surely grow in intensity as the wine evolves. Give it 10 more years. Southern Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

La Mannella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A gorgeous Brunello, with bountiful and intense aromas of red fruit, blackberry, spice, leather and cedar wood that go on and on. The wine is pristine, chiseled and sharp—but bold and generous at the same

time. There’s a touch of bitter almond followed by softer tones of red berry and spice. Casa Torelli. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Price: $47 abv: 14.5%

Padelletti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a bright and bold Brunello with loads of ripe cherry, inky density and a beautifully polished feel with crushed mineral and wet river stone elements. It’s a truly beautiful wine with stunning purity and intensity. All elements are balanced—from the fruit, to the spice, to the ethereal balsam notes. The mouthfeel is lively and intense and the finish is packed with berry, almond and savory persistence. Age 10–15 years. J.D. Cellars Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Rennina (Brunello di Montalcino). Put this beautiful Brunello in your cellar for at least 10–15 more years. Rennina opens with bold oak and cherry tones (that need more time to integrate), followed by plump, rich blackberry flavors, chocolate, leather and dark spice. It’s a wine characterized by impressive density and opulence. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $175

Podere Brizio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A beautifully composed and well-constructed Brunello, with bright berry tones of cassis and cherry backed by ethereal notes of root beer and eucalyptus. The wine shows a clean, crisp and structured sensation in the mouth—with a touch of bitter almond on the

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

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Corte Pavone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This dark Brunello opens with thick concentration and balsam notes of cola, humus and eucalyptus. Despite the thick extraction, the berry aromas are delicate, with lingering wild raspberry and forest fruit. The wine shows a nice juxtaposition between its bold, masculine side and an elegant feminine one. The mouthfeel is bold, plush and powerful. HeyDay Corporation. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14.5%

Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A top-rank Pinot Noir, dry, silky and elegant, with moderate alcohol despite great richness. The flavors of cherries, cola, plums and herbs are simply delicious, while the structure displays great integrity of acids and tannins. A bit tight now in youth, it should unfold over the next eight years. If you pop the cork now, give it a few hours of airing. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: Superb 94–97: Excellent 90–93: Very Good 87–89: Good 83–86: Acceptable 80–82:

The pinnacle of quality. A great achievement. Highly recommended. Often good value; well recommended. Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label p urchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Absolutely stunning, a testament to the vintage, the terroir and to the winemaker’s impeccable hand. It’s delicious beyond description, offering wave after wave of cherry pie, blackberry confit, red currant, persimmon and cola flavors, finished with exciting spices. Already throwing sediment, it’s so balanced in acids and tannins that it’s gorgeous now, but should develop effortlessly over the next six years at the very least. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Venge’s superb 2008 Bone Ash was a tough act to follow, but this 2009 pulls it off. Made entirely from Cabernet and aged for nearly two years in mostly new French oak, it shows massively rich flavors of blackberries, cassis and sweet buttered toast, with a lush, smooth mouthfeel, courtesy of ripe, sweet tannins. So easy to like, and an ideal partner to a perfectly grilled steak. Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

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Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasted at more than four years of age, this is a standout effort in a series that dates back to the mid-1990s. A complex nose greets you with a floral, dusty tickle, leading into a fruit-packed wine, with blueberry and black cherry most evident. Notes of black olive and graphite come through on the long finish, with exceptional grip and polish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). One sip is all it takes to know this is a terrific Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky and complex, and not only that, it will develop bottle nuance over the next six years. Rich and flamboyant in cherry pie filling, persimmon and mushu-plum sauce flavors, yet layered with earthy, foresty notes of mushrooms, soy sauce and balsam. You can drink it now, but give it an hour or two of decanting. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

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Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). While the texture of this Pinot is silky and light, it’s dramatic in flavor. The cherries, plums, pomegranates and persimmons are packed together into a dense core of taste, all spiced up with cinnamon, cloves and anise. Feels dramatic and complex, but young and fresh in acids and tannins. Give it 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here is a particularly impressive wine from one of Montalcino’s top estates. The wine opens with ethereal balsam notes of eucalyptus, humus, dried fruit and dried mint. Beyond those elegant tones are sturdier layers of cured meat and savory spice. It shows bold concentration, thick power and firmness on the close, with a drying mineral finish. Let it age five more years. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $63

Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A lovely Pinot, dry, crisp and silky, with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry fruit flavors, grounded by notes of grilled mushrooms, exotic spices and forest undergrowth. Sweetly delicious now, it should blossom over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $64

Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a worthy followup to the extraordinary 2006 and 2007 vintages. Feels fine in the mouth, with rich tannins and dry, elegant flavors of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate and French oak. The tannins are pure Napa, smooth and complex. Not ready to drink now, but give it a good six years, and it could develop over the next fifteen. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is the most expensive Pinot Noir from Gundlach Bundschu in many years, maybe ever, but it’s also easily their best. It’s absolutely delicious in cherries, pomegranates and spices, with a wonderful earthiness that grounds it. So silky and complex, so rewarding to drink now. Great to see this veteran winery coming out with a wine this fine. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). It’s unbelievable that this Chardonnay is unoaked, it’s so incredibly rich and creamy. Just packed with layers of tropical fruits, peaches, Asian pears and oatmeal cookies. All that butter and cream must be from the malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees. One of the best unoaked Chardonnays ever. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

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Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). The artist label Syrah is usually Dunham’s best, as this vineyard is well-established as one of the premier sites in Washington for Syrah. Scents of violets and black cherry introduce a dense, hard, tightly wound, muscular effort that needs a generous amount of breathing time. It rolls through the palate on a train of well-defined fruit, spice and chocolate, all nicely integrated. Supple and long. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $75

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Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). So softly delicious, it’s probably not an ager, but what a terrific wine to drink now and over the next few years. Really luscious, showing modern-style ripe blackberry, black cherry, cassis and mocha flavors that sink deep and last long into the finish. The tannins and overall structure lift it into classy elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100

Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This block selection from the estate vineyard is planted to the old Pommard clone. It’s an elegantly dry wine, dense in black and red cherry fruit, with hints of cola, wild herbs and spices. Feels very fine and silky in the mouth, and gets better with airing. Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery has been producing more and more low-production block bottlings from their estate vineyard. This one is entirely from the Dijon clone 115. It’s soft, sweet and utterly captivating, a feminine wine of enormous charm, with raspberry, cola and pomegranate flavors, enhanced, of course, by smoky new oak. The acidity is fine, and will protect the wine as it develops over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $47

Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat (California). Absolutely delicious, an addictive dessert wine. Brisk in acidity and clean in the mouth, if offers fabulously sweet flavors of oranges, vanilla, honey and buttered toast. Drink it with cheesecake and go to heaven. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

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Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Full-bodied and richly textured, with Penfolds’ hallmark weight and structure on full display, the 2008 RWT shows a touch of the vintage’s characteristic warmth, but only a touch. The cassis and blackberry fruit is plush, velvety and superripe, ending with hints of tobacco, mint and vanilla. It should drink well for at least a decade. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley). Symmetry is Rodney Strong’s most important red wine, the one they pull out all the stops on. It’s usually a hit, and so is this 2008, which is a blend of all five Bordeaux red varieties, but primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s extraordinarily rich in blackberries, plums, blueberries and cassis, with a surprising meatiness, like beef tartare. The mouthfeel is very soft, suggesting that this wine’s best days are now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $55

Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Good for Atlas Peak for holding this Cabernet for more than five years before releasing it. It’s still tannic and young, with intense blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors that are dry and spicy. Showing an elegant mouthfeel, it needs a little more time. Hold until 2015, but it could develop over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $86

Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tasty and toasty, young and compact, this is a wine to cellar for a few more years at least. The bright fruit flavors run from berry to Bing cherry, not as dark as in some years, but vibrant and crisp. The new oak is not yet fully integrated, so give it some extra bottle age for optimal enjoyment. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

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Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). From an especially cool vintage that favored acidity and citrus, this Poet’s Leap is a pretty wine, vibrant and full across the palate, with a mix of apple and peach flavors. Clean and balanced, it adds nuances of tea and finally a hint of honey in the extended finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). A perennial favorite, Wakefield’s St. Andrews bottling shows how good certain parts of Clare can be for Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 displays a masterful blend of cedar, chocolate, mocha, cassis, baking spices and leather, all wrapped in an elegant coat of dusty but supple tannins. Drink 2015–2025. American Wine Distributors. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Rich and ripe in blackberry, cassis and smoked meat flavors, this big, bold Syrah is fairly high in alcohol, but wears it well. It has a full-bodied, warm mouthfeel, and is best enjoyed over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

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Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza). Dense, earthy and rich upfront, with bold black plum and berry flavors that hit the right chords. Feels slick, deep and polished, with blackberry, cassis, coffee and coconut flavors that feed into a simmering finish that runs for miles. An excellent blend of Cab, Malbec and Syrah to drink now and over the next five years. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley). Marimar’s first Albariño is unquestionably one of the best ever to hail from California. Made without oak, it’s modest in alcohol, giving it a light, transparent mouthfeel that transmits pure, bone dry flavors of peaches, grapefruits and guava, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanclike gooseberry and enough acidity to make the palate whistle. A real beauty, especially with Asian fusion fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California). With nearly 20% residual sugar, this wine is enormously sweet in honey and black cherry flavors, balanced by brilliant acidity. It’s delicious and savory and so easy to like. For something unusual, try with a runny cheese, like a soft Gorgonzola. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $21

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Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley). A lovely wine, soft and charming, but far from simple. Although it has complex layers of cherries, blackberries, cassis and cedar, it also shows a fine structure of ripe, smooth tannins and supporting acidity. Drink now–2015 while it’s fresh and forward. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Is that a touch of botrytis on the nose? Or does that apricot come from the Rued clone of Chardonnay? Either way, this dry wine offers vastly complex layers of fruits, spices, minerals, white flowers and smoky new oak. It’s exotic, a Chardonnay that marches to a different beat and demands some understanding on the part of the taster. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). Ebulliently floral on the nose, this decadently creamy Tokaji bursts with characteristic honey, peach preserve and dried fig sweetness. A streak of citrusy acidity adds balance, while subtle hints of caramelized sugar and tea leaves add twists to the long, honey-kissed finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $43/500 ml

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John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A wonderful wine that’s rich and delicious. The raspberry and cherry fruit is dusted with exotic spices and finished with sweet, smoky oak. With its silky texture and good acidity, it’s a brilliant evocation of a warm part of the valley. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). Full bodied and richly tannic, Lehmann’s 2006 Mentor is dark, chocolaty and intense, with further nuances of cassis and cigar box. The finish is chewy and juicy, simultaneously drying and mouthwatering. Drink 2015–2023. Hess Collection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows all the hallmarks of a modern Napa wine of high quality. Although it’s quite dry, it’s rich in crushed ripe blackberries, in good allignment with smoky new oak. The tannins are smooth and complex, the acidity just fine. Really a lovely bottle of red wine, although a touch of superripeness may limit ageability. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20

Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a very rich, creamy wine. Fermented in stainless steel, the creaminess must come from lees aging. The flavors of orange and apricot jam and zesty lemon tart are dominant, but vital acidity also stars, giving the finish a spicy punch. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $24

Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A lovely restaurantstyle Pinot Noir, showing lots of class and elegance, yet with enough modesty to step aside and let the food star. Dry and silky, it shows raspberry, cherry, red currant and cola flavors, accented with sweet, smoky oak. Suggested pairings include steak, lamb chops and grilled ahi tuna. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $40

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. A solid wine, with plum skin and dry tannin textures. It does have the ripe fruit of 2009, attractive red fruits and juicy acidity. But it needs aging over at least three years to show its fruitiness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Good price for a Napa Valley Cabernet this distinguished. It’s rich and satisfying in blackberry, black currant and blueberry fruit, with a lovely coat of smoky oak. Shows lots of complexity, and the finish is dry and spicy. Could go the distance, but just to be safe, drink over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

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Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (Tokaji). For $20, this bargain basement Tokaji is pretty unbelievable. Abundantly floral and honeyed on the nose, it’s deeply concentrated on the palate, with layers of luscious figs and peaches, accented by lanolin and beeswax. Creamy and unctuous on the tongue, yet clean and fresh on the finish, with orangeinflected acidity that lingers. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editor’s Choice. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $20/375 ml

Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero. Packed tight with power and minty, earthy berry aromas that come with a dry dustiness. Feels ripe and proper, with a slight tannic grab and full but fresh flavors of wild berry, cassis, cocoa and oak. On the finish, chocolate and dry spice flavors take over, yielding a pleasant, complete whole. Drink now through 2015. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz (South Australia). A terrific value, the 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz is full bodied, creamy in texture and endowed with a long, velvety finish. The dark berryblack cherry fruit is big, but balanced by notes of cedar, mocha, chocolate and vanilla. Drink it over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Fruit stars in this young, rich Cabernet. It’s as good as young, drink-me-now Napa Cab gets, offering waves of blackberries, cherries, plums, sweet oak and spices that go on and on into long finish. The tannins are perfectly ripe, the acidity fine and brisk. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This bottling has been variable over the decades, but this 2010 shows fine form, a good sign coming on the heels of the excellent 2009. It’s richly oaked and flashy in pineapple jam, buttered toast and creamy, yeasty flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

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Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Ripe fruit and new oak combine for lush, complex flavors in this dramatic young Pinot Noir. It shows real flair in the raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, with vanilla and buttered cinnamon toast from aging in French barrels. Easy to like now for its silky texture and long, pure spicy finish. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Penley’s 2009 Phoenix offers classic cassis fruit, shored up by hints of mocha, vanilla and menthol. It’s medium to full bodied, powerful yet elegant, with tannins that are firm but not unapproachable. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). Compact, concentrated and clean, with all its components in place. The bouquet is dark with charcoal, but bright with berry fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is comfortable and balanced, with sweet berry flavors offset by mild spice and proper oak. Soft tannins define the finish; a fine Malbec that doesn’t overdo it. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

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Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de BeauneVillages. A wine that reveals its rich, jammy fruit slowly. When it arrives, the fruit is soft and generous, with strawberry jam and red plum flavors. It also has intense fresh acidity, a dry tannic core and aging potential. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Occasio has made a restrained and elegant Cabernet, alluring in its cola spice—almost sarsaparilla—aromas. Then the wine delves into dusty red and black fruit with ample structure, and a vein of minerality cradled into one delicious package. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

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Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Here’s a fruity, soft, flamboyant Cabernet, packed with plum, blackberry, black currant, licorice, dark chocolate and spicy oak flavors. Delicious and savory, it’s probably showing its best now, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45

Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Shows the richness of Mount Veeder fruit and also the Rubissow style, which emphasizes massively extracted fruit. Just overwhelms with jammy blackberries, cherries, mocha, licorice and vanilla. The tannins are polished and pretty, being firm yet soft at the same time. Give it a decant and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland). A forward, oak-inspired character leads the nose with scents of vanilla and soft toast, but is supported by the solid fruit core of blueberry, mulled boysenberry and black plum guts. Attractive and rich in the mouth, with a firm but accessible structure and lifting acidity. Drink now–2015. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $23

Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Good price for a Napa Chardonnay this rich and balanced. It’s enormously ripe in pineapples, oranges and golden mangoes, but grounded by zesty acidity and a minerality that comes from the soil. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). Darcie Kent really nails this Cab out of John Madden’s Ranch. Pungently bold and moody, intensely herbal with green pepper and olive, wrapped within a wall of black pepper that lingers. Pair it with pepper steak. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley). This newish producer pays honor to its Persian roots with Yalda, a Rhône-style blend of 41% Shiraz, 26% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache and 8% Cinsault that’s intense, coated like chocolate-strawberry jam, tobacco, leather and earth with a subtext of cheese rind. This wine definitely has character. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $48

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block Merlot (Livermore Valley). A dark, plummy Livermore Valley Merlot that reminds one of herbencrusted roasted meats, and would be a good wine to pair with such a feast. Full-bodied and lush, with a smoky, oaky finish and cedar lurking throughout. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-lesBeaune. From its situation on the plain outside Beaune, Chorey is often overlooked. A wine like this, ripe and smooth, full of red fruit, offers a deliciously juicy drink and represents a great value in red Burgundy. Drink now, or keep for two years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet Sauvignon (California). From Temeculabased producer Fazeli, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon features a lofty nose that’s quite herbal, drifting into eucalyptus land—and tasting of cranberry. Velvety tannins. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $44

Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red Wine (Napa Valley). This is from Rubissow, and it’s a nice wine for the price. Essentially a Bordeaux blend with a splash of Syrah, it’s rich and satisfying in blackberry, cassis, mocha, bacon and pepper flavors, with a coating of sweet oak. Lovely now with anything from a nice steak to a beef burrito. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Lots of ripe, forward citrus, tropical fruit, melon and peach flavors in this slightly sweet Sauvignon Blanc. A bit of oak brings a nice smoky creaminess. More controversial is the green, gooseberry tartness that will divide wine lovers into pro and con. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). This is a big, barrel-aged Chardonnay resplendent in caramel and honey, although it turns a bit bi-polar on the mid-palate, where it shows off lean minerality. A yin and yang wine, with a slight burn on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El Dorado). Perry Creek’s popular, well-priced Zinman shows off leathery, cola spice and blackberry flavors and fruit that’s just at the precipice between ripe and overripe nice structure. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $14

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BEER

Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This old-vine Lodi Zin features caramel, vanilla and cherry notes. Most unusually, it’s blended with tiny amounts of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc and is fairly light bodied and sweet on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

SPIRITS

Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City Brewing Company, VA). Brewed with coriander, orange peel and grains of paradise, this is a wellbalanced, smooth and immensely drinkable witbier that any fan of the style can appreciate. The nose and mouth are wheat-driven, but accents from the spice bill are there to add depth and complexity. A lemony briskness complements the flavors of clove and pepper on the close, ending slightly dry but clean. abv: 5.0% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

Luna Nueva 2012 The Mayan Prophecy Edicion Especial Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). On the nose and palate, expect lots of vanilla, punctuated with a gentle, peppery note and a touch of oaky sweetness. Well balanced. The attractive frosted glass bottle with colorful Mayan graphic art is a nice touch, too. abv: 40% Price: $45

Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). Nice and peppery, with deep, impressive blackberry and plum, bacon and sandalwood flavors. It’s a full-bodied wine with lots of power and elegance. Drink now. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

88 90

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso Sherry. Round and welcoming up front, with toffee, caramel and mocha aromas that are not too sharp. Feels smooth, with pure flavors of toasted nuts, caramel, cocoa dust, dried apricot and underripe peach. Complex and nutty on the finish, with a sweet aftertaste of chocolate and toffee. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley). This medium-bodied Shriaz displays a soft, creamy, inviting mouthfeel and a piquant counterpoint in its flavors of tart cherries and mulling spices. It’s an easy-drinking wine that ends on a cranberry note. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

88 90

Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Solid as a boulder and concentrated on the bouquet, with a mix of floral, fine perfume and blackberry aromas. Feels lush, complete and easygoing, with blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors. Graceful and composed on the back end. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

BEST BUYS

Luna Nueva Ultra Premium Limited Edition Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). On the dessert-like side, this limited edition Tequila has a light gold cast and rich crème brûlée aromas. Silky, rich and beautiful, with soft, sweet butterscotchy notes and just enough peppery tingle to brace up the spirit, consider this as a sipping Tequila after dinner. Aged in French and American oak casks for at least five months. abv: 40% Price: $37

BEST BUYS

Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California). A real crowd pleaser for its sumptuous array of ripe berry and spice flavors. Wherever the grapes come from in California, they’ve given a delicious wine, soft and gentle, and filled with cherry, black raspberry, sweet licorice, exotic spice and sandalwood flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

Releaf 2010 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz (Western Cape). This wine needs a little bit of time to fully integrate, but it has an attractive crushed-velvet texture with medium tannins, and a flavorful palate. Forward fruit flavors of berry preserves and black plum abound, and a black pepper accent remains on the medium-length finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $12

Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Pretty aromas of cassis, cherry and sweet cream are inviting. Feels good, with zesty acidity and nice overall balance. Flavors of black currant, Bing cherry and plum cover the bases, while the finish is easygoing. The epitome of everyday Cabernet. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Smooth and almost creamy, this simple sipper has cherries and chocolate in abundance. The flavors of vanilla and tobacco are also prominent. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). From a single sustainably farmed vineyard in Lodi comes this super bang for your buck. It’s earthy Cab that’s perfumed inside and out, with wafts of cedar burning on an open fire, as well as brick, black cherry and clove. It’s balanced and structured to boot. Best Buy. —V.B. Price: $11 abv: 13.8%

Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay (Lodi). A nicely done wine, especially at the price. It’s very pretty aromatically, boasting pear and vanilla notes, full in the mouth and lemony with minerality. “Jam” of Jam’s Blend is a commingling of the names of the two Tortoise Creek founders, Janie and Mel Master, who source the grapes for this wine out of a Lodi Rules vineyard. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $11

San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay (Mendoza). Fleshy peach, melon and pineapple aromas on the nose. Feels lifted and fresh, and decidedly not oaky, with citrusy orange and nectarine flavors. Fruity, round and easy on the finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Tormentoso 2009 Syrah-Mourvèdre (Paarl). Black cherry and raspberry scents immediately hit you upon nosing, followed shortly after by an herbal edge with a chocolaty accent, like a thin mint cookie. This wine has structured tannins and medium weight, with a sweet-spice tinge to the close. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato d’Asti. Sweet, fragrant and beautifully intense, this bright Moscato d’Asti would pair with fruit salad or sponge cake with fresh strawberries and whipped cream. The close is creamy and frothy. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $11

J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera Prima Sweet Pink Rosé (La Mancha). Good for the style, which is sweet and lightly bubbly. Smells melony, then feels fresh and lively in the mouth. Sure, there’s lots of residual sugar, but for a Moscato-type wine the tropical fruit and cotton candy flavors work well. Decidedly not cloying. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $8

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close—that revives and refreshes the palate. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

San Polo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. San Polo delivers a stellar 2007 Brunello with incredible density, concentration and personality. It starts off soft, smooth and supple until those still-young tannins appear on the close, giving the wine a firm backbone. Black fruit, cherry, rum cake, plum, black pepper and cured meat characterize the bouquet. In all, this is a beautiful ensemble with layers of beauty and freshness. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Tenimenti Angelini 2007 Val di Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). This attractive Brunello presents a wild, brambly side, with aromas of wild mushroom, forest floor, small berry and crème de cassis. It boasts a beautiful, deep color and plenty of concentration, with endnotes of spice, leather and dried tobacco leaf. The mouthfeel is solid, well defined and superbly structured. Vin Divino. —M.L. Price: $61 abv: NA

Bonacchi 2007 Molino della Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). A huge difference from last vintage, this is soft, supple, dense and enduring, with loads of fruit intensity and a plush, spicy richness. Black fruit, rum cake, cherry liqueur and smoked bacon on the close. Modern, bold and very bright. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Caprili 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This is an austere and sophisticated expression of Sangiovese Grosso, with dried tobacco and spice backed by prune and currant. The fruit is ripe and mature without being overtly jammy, chewy or too sweet. In fact, it presents a savory-sophisticated front with ample concentration and a polished texture. Good aging potential. Admiralty Beverage. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

Castello Banfi 2007 Poggio alle Mura (Brunello di Montalcino). Named after one of the most beautiful stone castles in Europe, Poggio alle Mura is a dark and compelling wine that shows a clean quality, a fresh mouthfeel and excellent length. Beautiful fruit intensity with cherry, blackberry, spice, leather and tobacco describe the bouquet. Good aging potential. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $82

Castello Romitorio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This is a lovely Brunello with black cherry, plum, smoke, bacon, leather and a drying touch of crushed mineral on the nose. It is rich and concentrated, with a slightly sweet-smelling bouquet. The mouthfeel is compact, tight and polished—but there is excellent length too. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Citille di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Inky-dark concentration segues to bold berry notes and loads of dark, deep fruit: plum, prune, blackberry and rum cake. There are also pretty dustings of dry mineral and dried herb at the back. This 12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

is a bold Brunello with power, determination, structure and balance. It needs at least 10 years of cellar aging. Siena Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

Col d’Orcia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $63

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with an intense, dark garnet color and shows lush softness and ripe blackberry fruit with perfumed notes of blue flower, plum cake and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is characterized by firm structure and yielding tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Fattoria Scopone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A pleasurable, opulent wine with rich tones of cherry and sweet chocolate backed by dense concentration and extraction. Plush, ripe, modern, soft and dense; a real crowd-pleaser. Soft, thick texture with loads of spice, dark fruit and staying power. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14%

Fornacina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello offers bright aromas with lively cherry, cola, humus, dark spice and pipe tobacco, as well as savory tones of beef bresaola and even a touch of white peppercorn. Impressive complexity. Elegant and streamlined on the close. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $64

La Fortuna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. La Fortuna Brunello shows a distinctive nose with a vein of sweet spice that holds up the plump fruit. You’ll find rum cake, cinnamon bun, Christmas spice and chocolate-covered cherry. It’s soft, plush and rich on the finish, with a lingering note of sweetness that drives its cheerful personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $49

La Magia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. La Magia Brunello is a brooding, masculine wine filled with tobacco smoke and cigar box. At the back are tones of dried fruit, blackberry preserves, crème de cassis and prune. It shows wonderful intensity and elegance with loads of personality. Spice, black pepper and bitter chocolate also appear on the long, silky finish. It promises to age well. BCI Wine and Beer. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

La Velona 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bold, plump and soft expression of Brunello, with sweet berry fruit, chocolate fudge, cinnamon spice and marzipan. The wine’s appearance is dark and well extracted. Despite the grandeur of the nose, the mouthfeel is compact, tight and firm. Tutto Vino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Máté 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The ripe fruit element is perfectly contained and just short of seeming overdone or jammy. It’s soft and round, with loads of oak-driven spice, like cinnamon and ground clove, and plump tones of red cherry, black-

berry and plum. What’s really nice is the freshness and overall supple texture. Vinilandia USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70

Molino di Sant’Antimo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Well stitched together with a broad, wide assembly of dark fruit, spice and cola-like aromas. All the wine’s elements sing loud as a single chorus; bold, plush, chewy. Ends with ripe fruit, rum cake, pipe tobacco and dark espresso bean. Firm, great length. Delectatio Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Pietranera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Opens with dark concentration and ripe berry fruit with layers of plum, blackberry, dark chocolate, pipe tobacco, cherry liqueur, cola and underbrush. It offers a wonderful 360-degree portrait of Sangiovese Grosso. Tight structure, integration and loads of fruity intensity. Drink after 2018. Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $45 abv: 14%

Pieve Santa Restituta 2007 Sugarille (Brunello di Montalcino). Bold and elegant at the same time. Packs a powerful punch in a silk glove. Intense aromas of ripe fruit, spice, cherry liqueur, cola, dried sage and cigar box. The mouthfeel is pristine and structured, with a precise, tonic and streamlined impact. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $190

Poggiarellino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A nice surprise. Great density and richness with layers of dark fruit and spice. Thick concentration and a bold, confident presentation. Plush texture, length and density. Age 5–10 more years. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

Poggio Antico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A whiff of fresh flowers from a rose garden or a lavender field makes for a nice first impression. Beyond that is dark fruit, black cherry and crème de cassis. Shadings of lead pencil, leather and tobacco fill in the rear. This Brunello presents a soft, round mouthfeel with cherry flavors capped by tight structure. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $79

Poggio il Castellare 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Loads of balsam intensity with eucalyptus, ground ginger, cola, dried fruit and crème de cassis. This wine also adds a pretty floral note of red rose petal or potpourri that really steals the show. Loads of balance and complexity. Smooth, long finish, good length. Drink after 2015. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

Tenuta di Sesta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Tenuta di Sesta is run by a perfect father-mother-daughter-son team and is located in one of the least-traveled corners of Montalcino. The 2007 Brunello delivers sweet oak tones that drive the initial bouquet and are soon followed by bright cherry, vanilla bean, sweet mocha and rum cake. Pretty balsam notes

at the back will undoubtedly increase and evolve with age. Cellar this wine 10 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $90 abv: 14%

Tenuta La Fuga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Gorgeous, beautiful Brunello. Dark concentration and excellent intensity. Loads of complexity that peels back slowly layer after layer as the wine evolves. Rock-solid structure and freshness that point to a happy cellar evolution. Aromas of dark fruit, cola, cured meat, balsam, dried herb, tobacco and leather. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $65 abv: 14.5%

Uccelliera 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Austere, tight and sophisticated, this well-extracted Brunello shows dry aromas of crushed granite along with ethereal tones of dried ginger, black licorice and root beer. Inky appearance with chewy richness. The mouthfeel is round, chewy and packed with sweet fruit and spice. Drink after 2015. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $72 abv: 15%

Verbena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a gorgeous wine with a deep, inky color and super extraction that is elegant but powerful at the same time. This is a balanced wine, but it’s also an intense wine, with loads of ripe fruit, spice and tobacco. It feels smooth and rich, with a finely crafted texture that is velvety and supple. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. Price: $55 abv: 14%

Bonacchi 2007 Casalino (Brunello di Montalcino). A lovely, lush wine with bold, direct aromas of ripe cherry, cured meat, blackberry preserves and exotic spice. It presents a clean and fresh mouthfeel, with solid structure on the long finish. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. Price: $25 abv: 13.5%

Canalicchio di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Opulent tones of toasted espresso bean and soft chocolate fudge play a supporting role to bold berry and dried raspberry. Background floral tones of dried lavender and red rose. There’s a touch of earthiness, too, with button mushroom and forest floor. Tannins are nicely polished and firm. Streamlined, elegant. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Price: $63 abv: 14.5%

Capanne Ricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Textbook Brunello nose from a warm vintage. It grabs from a wide array of elements at its disposal, with balsam, cola and humus, backed by ripe fruit and dark cherry. More layers appear as leather, earth and cured meat. Great complexity and balance. Closes elegant, fresh and clean. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14.5%

Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Campo del Drago (Brunello di Montalcino). Youthful, bright and direct in its bold cherry and blueberry aromas. Vinous, chewy and raw with more evolution ahead.

Chewy density with bold concentration and ripe fruit. Give it 4–6 more years. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $80

Citille di Sopra 2007 Vigna Poggio Ronconi (Brunello di Montalcino). Big, bold and dark in style. Loads of exotic spice, soy sauce, Teriyaki, cured meat, ripe fruit and savory peppercorn. The mouthfeel is thick and soft. Definitely for those who like bold personality in their Tuscan red. Siena Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $80

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2007 Prime Donne (Brunello di Montalcino). Toasted, tight, even gritty in spots, with firm tannins and bold aromas. The wine shows power and personality, with ripe fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and thick density. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

Fanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This fine and delicate Brunello shows soft elegance and sophistication in the form of cassis, wild berry, white pepper, root beer, toasted nut and cigar tobacco. The mouthfeel is firm and clean, with elements of tannic structure and fresh acidity that work well together. The oak element still needs time to integrate. Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70

Fossacolle 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Pretty savory tones and barbecue aromas combine to create a bold Brunello. Ripe fruit, black pepper, rum cake, black currant and blackberry preserves all appear in the background. Silky-smooth and firm, it shows a clean, sharp, bold close. Vias Imports. —M.L. Price: $48 abv: 14.5%

Gianni Brunelli 2007 Le Chiuse (Brunello di Montalcino). Pretty textbook Brunello with smooth bright berry nuances packed in a traditional, tight body. Good acidity and firmness with well structured, silky tannin. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14%

Il Paradiso di Frassina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. More spice than ripe fruit characteristics here. There’s a dark, savory note of smoked ham or bacon as well, with back-end notes of cola and root beer. Warm, wintery personality. Streamlined and polished in the mouth. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 13.5%

Il Valentiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bold, plush pleasure bomb with thick layers of bright cherry and chocolate. Loads of tobacco, spice and new leather. Huge intensity and bold aromas. Fresh oak notes of vanilla and cinnamon show first signs of integration. A bold, modern Brunello with some tannic astringency. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 14%

Fattoi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A Brunello with broad shoulders and a powerful bouquet that delivers bright, bold aromas of ripe fruit, dark spice, leather and dried tobacco. The wine’s structure and dark fruit flavors move evenly over the palate with smoothness and harmony. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Vigna del Fiore (Brunello di Montalcino). Delicate embroidered with sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild berry, white cherry, rum cake and savory spice, this wine shows the kind of pretty berry aromas that are brighter than they are intense. In fact, the wine shows elegant restraint with the potential for a beautiful evolution in the bottle. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Vigna Manapetra (Brunello di Montalcino). A vineyarddesignated Brunello with sharp clarity and purity. Sangiovese aromas of wild berry, earth, pressed blue flower and forest floor. Lively and direct on the palate, with integrated acidity and firm structure. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

Fattoria Scopone 2007 L’Olivare (Brunello di Montalcino). Bright, textbook, loads of Sangiovese intensity with complexity and tight aromas of wild berry, blueberry, almond, white pepper, spice and rum cake. Tight and streamlined in the mouth. Needs more time to soften with cellar aging. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

La Mannella 2007 I Poggiarelli (Brunello di Montalcino). Opulent and floral, with pressed rose and blue violets. Soapy aromas with church incense and cinnamon potpourri. Very enduring and intense with tight, firm tannins and good length. Casa Torelli . —M.L. Price: $55 abv: 14.5% La Poderina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Opens with dark concentration and syrupy aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves and cassis concentrate. The wine is soft, plump and chewy, with a smooth, thick quality to its texture that makes it a natural pairing partner to red meat. Vias Imports. —M.L. Price: $62 abv: 14%

Le Potazzine 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s an austere, sophisticated wine, with a pretty garnet color and finely polished aromas of cassis, wild berry, cola, wet river stone, barbecue smoke and bresaola. There’s good complexity and integration and this Brunello delivers satisfying freshness and balanced acidity. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Price: $72 abv: 14%

Lisini 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Stands out for its complexity and length, showcasing cherry liqueur, blackberry preserves, root beer, dried ginger and Spanish cedar. There’s an exotic Asian quality to this Brunello that adds interest. Solid, shapely and velvety in the mouth. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. Price: $80 abv: 14.5%

Mastrojanni 2007 Vigna Loreto (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky, ripe, nicely extracted WineMag.com | 13

and loaded tight with blackberry, spice and cherry aromas, this is a beautiful Brunello that delivers intensity, staying power and promises easy food-pairing potential. Velvety, soft, rich and plush in the mouth. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

Palazzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Shows sweet blackberry or cherry liqueur aromas, followed by spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. Coffee or dark espresso, too. Well structured, firm and extracted, with good intensity and staying power. Drink after 2018. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

between fruit and spice. Thick tannins need more time to age and soften. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Tenuta Carlina 2007 la Togata (Brunello di Montalcino). Deep garnet in color, with dark amber highlights. There’s loads of intensity here, with ripe, syrupy fruit, blackberry preserves, prune and dark plum. On the savory side, the wine presents an even succession of leather, tobacco and cedar. It’s soft, generous and thickly textured on the luscious finish. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

bright cherry fruit, mocha and vanilla bean. The wine’s flavors are more savory, with some background notes of forest floor and wild mushroom. The mouthfeel is firm and steady, but also fresh and compact. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Castelli Martinozzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright and plump, very lively Sangiovese fruit. There’s smooth richness and great staying power to the wine’s black fruit and exotic spice. Alnam Wine for All. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $42

Tenuta San Giorgio 2007 Ugolforte (Brunello di Montalcino). Features sweet fruit, plum, prune and a savory element of spice and smoke; loads of leather and tobacco as well. Deep rich, concentration and a plush, velvety feel. Oak tones must still integrate, but promise a nice future. Majestic Imports. —M.L. Price: $30 abv: 14.5%

Castello Banfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Garnet-ruby in color, with hues of amber at the rim. Oak tones of spice and toasted nut still need time to integrate. The wine is bright and slightly astringent, with a firm, polished disposition, but has nice fruit tones of currant and cassis. Give it a few more years in the cellar. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. Price: $55 abv: 14%

Tenuta Vitanza 2007 Tradizione (Brunello di Montalcino). Thick and dark, with generous fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. This is a wine that does not hold back from an aromatic point of view. Mouthfeel is tight, firm and ends with polished tannins. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Quattroventi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Loads of lush cinnamon, spice, dark fruit and overall intensity. Supple and velvety with cherry, raspberry, vanilla and espresso bean. . —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Altesino 2007 Montosoli (Brunello di Montalcino). Oak spice, bramble, toasted almond, chocolate, spice, dark fruit and rum cake all make appearances. This is tight, firm, straightforward yet generous. The oak element will soften with more years of cellar aging. Save for 5–10 years. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

PianCornello 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark, inky and thick, this hearty Brunello begs for grilled steak. It opens with ripe fruit—blackberry, plum and prune—and has a background rendering of spice, leather and cigar box. It shows a big, bold style, with loads of soft density and opulence. Good structure, too. Drink after 2015. Superior Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 14.5%

Poggio Antico 2007 Altero (Brunello di Montalcino). Pretty ensemble of bright fruit, spice and cured meat, with ample concentration. Plump and round in the mouth, with loads of aromatic intensity. The mouthfeel is tight and chiseled. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $94

Poggio Nardone 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s an exotic, almost Indian personality, with aromas of dark spice, clove and cardamom. Black fruit, prune and currant are also in evidence. Bold, black and inky thick. It’s soft, round and long on the close with pretty freshness, too. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Le Lucére (Brunello di Montalcino). Loads of balsam intensity and an array of dried herb, red fruit, wild berry, cedar wood and forest floor aromas. It’s very full and generous in the mouth, with firm, but polished tannin. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60 San Polino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Luscious dark fruit and huge aromatic complexity: dark red cherry, crème de cassis, black licorice, dried ginger and ground pepper. Defined and tight in the mouth, with a long finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $65

Siro Pacenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A wine that speaks of territory and tradition, it’s clean, polished and pristine, with a nice balance 14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Terralsole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Shows balance and integration and a dark, inky appearance. Blackberry, plum cake, cinnamon bun, leather and tobacco aromas. Chewy, ripe mouthfeel frames plush fruit, while the dusty, structured finish features loads of dried tobacco leaf. Terralsole. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

Belpoggio 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright cherry cola and root beer notes veer beautifully onto the balsam side, with dried ginger and chopped mint. Some firm tannic astringency needs to soften with time, and there’s a drying mineral tone that holds it all together. Vino Direct. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $44 Brunelli 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A very dusty, dry expression of Brunello, with tones of crushed stone and talcum powder. It’s nice when a wine adds that mineral touch at the back of red fruit and spice, as it gives the bouquet firmness and backbone. Cherry, blackberry, cola and rum cake are all there. The mouthfeel is structured, dry and compact. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50 Camigliano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of

Castiglion del Bosco 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Smoke and dark fruit, with a touch of drying mineral and softer background tones of chocolate and rum cake. There’s a very polished, dry feel to this wine. The oak notes are still integrating, and the finish is tight and firm. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60 Collemattoni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine features thick, luscious tones and bright notes of forest fruit and underbrush. There’s a tight, bold quality to the tannins that suggests this wine needs more time to age. Give it 10 more years, as its very dense and masculine in the mouth. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $67 Conti Costanti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. An attractive, rich style of Brunello with loads of aromatic intensity. There’s cherry liqueur, rum cake, cola, toasted almond, savory spice, cured meat and tobacco. A pure, clean, long, silky close displays good structure and acidity. Drink after 2016. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $82 Cordella 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Opens with a sweet opulent nose driven by aromas of plump cherry, moist pipe tobacco, chocolate fudge, vanilla bean and ground espresso. But the wine is not modern or overtly international in terms of its style. It shows deep roots in Montalcino tradition and a bold, overt personality. Earth, leather and dried tobacco drive the finish. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Cupano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark in color and thickly extracted, with savory notes of cured meat, beef jerky, tobacco and leather. Fruit tones resemble dried strawberry, prune and dark plum, giving this wine a ripe, earthy feel. Closes soft, plush and spicy. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $110

Donna Olga 2007 Le Cacce in Villa (Brunello di Montalcino). Beautiful and sophisticated aromas of dried sage, eucalyptus, cola, wild berry and forest floor lead into a wine with a linear, long, polished and pretty berry nuances on the finish. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Gorgeous, deep, inky-black and intense. What sets this wine apart is the drying mineral tone of crushed granite that gives it direction and backbone. It’s soft and plush on the palate, with round tones of ripe fruit and sweet spice. Nice density and structure, too, with a spicy aftertaste. Monarchia Matt International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Il Marroneto 2007 Selezione Madonna delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino). Bold fruit layers of red cherry, plum, blackberry, spice, cola and chocolate mark this wine. The quality of the fruit is still raw and bright and could use several years of cellar aging. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 14%

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This gorgeous Brunello is packed tight with personality and intensity. The wine is redolent of candied cherry, blackberry, rum cake, cinnamon bread and dried ginger. It shows steely, firm structure and a tightly knit texture. Compact, sharp and decisive. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Bramante Cosimi (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense, lush and bold, this wine shows red cherry, blackberry, rum cake, cinnamon spice and dark chocolate. The wine’s concentration is particularly attractive and adds momentum to the already long finish. Easy, soft and almost ready to drink now. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Innocenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Marked by chocolate, leather, tobacco, espresso, dark licorice and loads of pretty blackberry fruit, this is a defined, focused wine with a crisp, pristine personality. Mission Wine Company. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 14%

La Serena 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Smoky overtones of barbecue and pipe tobacco fill in the background and provide a platform for all the busy cherry and ripe berry notes presented on the nose. It’s a big, bold style with loads of savory spice, black pepper and smoked bacon. Drink after 2015. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Mastrojanni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a dark, austere expression of Brunello, with layers of exotic spice, toasted nut, cardamom and forest underbrush. Small berry fruit comes through as raspberry and black currant. In the mouth, the wine is bright, defined and firm, showing solid tannic structure. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

Mocali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s an oak-driven Brunello that needs time to evolve—give it five years or more. Glimmers of bright fruit emerge despite the presence of toasted almond, cedar wood and vanilla extract. The wine is concentrated with soft tannins and a lovely rich feel in the mouth.Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Tenuta Crocedimezzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Pretty floral notes rise to the top: lavender and pressed rose. That intense floral element gives the wine an elegant, sophisticated personality that’s tight and structured, with great balance between firm tannins and bright acidity. Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

Mocali 2007 Vigna delle Raunate (Brunello di Montalcino). Bold fruit and oak-driven notes display broad brush strokes of cherry, clove, cinnamon and vanilla bean. Smooth, rich velvety mouthfeel. This is still young, fruity and vinous; let it age 10 years or more. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

Tenuta Oliveto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bold and concentrated, with a dark, extracted appearance and tones of ripe fruit and spice. There are savory notes of barbecue sauce and cured bacon as well. The wine is thick and full in the mouth, with textured tannins and an extroverted personality. Drink after 2018. IMA Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

Piccini 2007 Villa al Cortile (Brunello di Montalcino). Bright, buoyant delivery with the kind of aromas that pop. Think cola, balsam, eucalyptus, dried ginger and crushed black pepper. The fruit is subtle and delicate, reminiscent of forest berry and cassis. The wine’s structure is firm and solid without being too biting and there’s fresh acidity, too. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 13.5%

Tiezzi 2007 Vigna Soccorso (Brunello di Montalcino). Youthful fruit tones of cherry and raw blackberry set the stage. Those bold fruit layers will evolve slowly with more cellar aging, integrating with the light spice, tobacco, cedar and earth. The mouthfeel is bold, round and long-lasting. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Price: $42 abv: 13.5%

Podere Paganico 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Mineral tones and oak tones will integrate with time. With the wine’s other notes of black cherry, licorice, bresaola, white pepper and black currant. Beautiful harmony and intensity, with a firm, silky signature on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40 San Filippo di Giannelli 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark fruit and fresh oak tones still need time to integrate—give this Brunello a few more years of bottle age. Chocolate, exotic spice, cherry, blackberry, leather and pipe tobacco on the nose; smooth berry richness and a tight, firm feel in the mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

San Lorenzo 2007 Bramante (Brunello di Montalcino). Ripe fruit, prune, sticky pipe tobacco and rum cake notes are bold and big, with thick aromatic embroidery and broader brush strokes. Structured and incredibly smooth on the finish. This wine shows a fine, velvety texture. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14%

San Polino 2007 Helichrysum (Brunello di Montalcino). Balsam notes of cola, deep spice, forest floor, sage and eucalyptus are long and ethereal. This is polished and bright with fine, firm tannins. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $75

Sesta di Sopra 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A ripe sweet style, with blackberry and cherry liqueur, leather, tobacoo, rum cake and graham cracker. This wine’s polished, distinctive finish features a rich, velvety feel. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Tornesi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a nicely perfumed element to the nose that recalls pressed blue flower or lavender potpourri. Bold berry and currant undertones form a base of plumpness and richness. Light shadings of spice and toasted nut drive the mouthfeel. Structured and firm. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50 Valdicava 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with inky, dark concentration and ripe aromas of prune, plum and blackberry. It’s packed tight with savory spices, such as ground clove and cardamom, and it also offers a full load of ripe (but not jammy) black fruit. It feels thick and textured on the palate, with tannins that will soften with 5–10 more years of bottle aging. There’s a touch of cherry sweetness on the close. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $110

Altesino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A dark, masculine, brooding Brunello, with savory aromas of leather and cured meat behind ripe fruit and blackberry. It’s tight and clean, with a streamlined mouthfeel that testifies to the wine’s firm tannic structure. Executed in a traditional style, it shows possibilities for long-term aging. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

Argiano 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A youthful, oak-driven Brunello that needs more time to integrate. Ripe, plummy fruit shows chewy, rich density, then folds in blackberry, cherry, spice, leather and tobacco. Still tight in the mouth. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

Canneta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello presents a classic, textbook bouquet with red fruit, spice, cola and pressed flowers—but with a subdued, mild delivery. The wine shows aromatic WineMag.com | 15

intensity but not in an exaggerated fashion. The tannins are dry, firm and dusty and there’s a wood-driven finish of spice and rolled pipe tobacco. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

Donna Olga 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Inky dark concentration combines with a youthful, almost grapy quality in the mouth. Cola, chewy fruit, ripe density and exotic spices all are present while the mouthfeel is lean, crisp and structured. . —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Fattoria dei Barbi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Licorice, ripe fruit, ginger, lemon zest, crushed stone, cassis and wild berry notes are bold, but in the mouth the wine is lean and compact, with a particularly bright and fresh feel in the mouth. There’s even a menthol note at the very end. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $49

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Spice and bright notes of dried tobacco, ginger, cola and black pepper mark this wine, which displays deep richness and intensity. Crisp, clean finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Fuligni 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a youthful expression of Sangiovese Grosso in which the grape’s trademark acidity and fruity brightness shine through. Cherry, white almond, dried raspberry and rum cake notes present a soft, chewy feel in the mouth, although the overall structure is solid. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

structure keep it firmly in place. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

La Fornace 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine displays pretty, feminine aromas and a bright mouthfeel. A polished mineral note follows red berry, cassis and plum. Drying tannins provide ample structure. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

La Pieve 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello offers a distinctive note of spice, leather, moist earth or porcino mushroom at the start that slowly segues to dried fruit, prune and black currant. There’s also cured beef and smoked bacon fat. It offers, big, plush and bold tones with chewy concentration and sweet cherry fruit on the close. David Vincent Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Lambardi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Concentrated and dense, with bold red fruit, deep spice notes and overtones of tobacco, bresaola, leather and cigar box. It’s a bold, masculine wine but restrained and elegant at the same time. Despite the bold bouquet, the mouthfeel is rather compact and firm. It leaves the palate refreshed. Petit Pois Corporation. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 14%

credibly dense, making this wine almost above food pairing (try it with aged cheese). Very structured, but ripe tannins. Age 10 years or more. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Tenute Silvio Nardi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Black licorice, cola and cherry liqueur open the nose and segue to black currant and crème de cassis aromas, then forest floor, bramble and Spanish cedar. This wine is linear, crisp and tight on the palate, with firm tannins. Give the wine five more years to soften. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $70

Terre Nere 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Cassis, cola, leather, dried ginger, dried spice, cherry and black licorice all play out on this wine’s smooth, silky finish. Very nice length with a smooth, silky endnote. Ripe tannins balance crisp acidity. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

Tiezzi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Lean, compact and crisp, this Brunello is redolent of oak spice, ripe fruit, cured meat, rum cake and leather. It shows a sharply focused mouthfeel with tight structure and a streamlined feel. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

Podere La Vigna 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A dark, garnet-colored appearance with brooding, masculine tones of spice, ripe fruit, dark cherry, as well as beautiful balsam notes of cola, dried mint and ginger. Balanced, not overdone. Let the tannins soften with age. Royalty Importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $67

Villa Le Prata 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Lead pencil and mineral dryness upfront followed by dark fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The wine presents a soft round mouthfeel, with ample structure and length. Lingering barbecue and ripe fruit mark the close.Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2007 Terra Rossa (Brunello di Montalcino). Very oak driven, with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, exotic spice, toasted coconut and dark chocolate. There is dark fruit, like cherry and blackberry, at the back. Ripe tannins impart a plush, rich mouthfeel and loads of dense, chewy intensity. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65 Il Poggione 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Inky-black appearance. Ripe, concentrated notes of blackberry and raspberry jam are framed by bold tannins with an astringent bite at the end. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

La Cerbaiola 2007 Salvioni (Brunello di Montalcino). A full-bodied wine with cured meat, barbecue, black fruit, toasted almond, leather and tobacco aromas. It feels smooth and opulent, with good structure and a velvety texture. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $167

La Collina dei Lecci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Classic Brunello, albeit in a bold, dense style. Delicate, ethereal Sangiovese accents emerge, but the wine is also packed tight with modern aromas of spice, leather and dark chocolate. It shows nice balance and complexity. Textured tannins and tight

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

San Felice 2007 Campogiovanni (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky-dark and superconcentrated. Notes of coal, licorice, crushed peppercorn, river stone and dark fruit are so big and bold, it’s hard to imagine with which foods it would pair best. Premium Brands. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $60

Sesti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Tobacco, dried fruit, cassis, currant, blackberry and old leather notes mark the nose. Finely textured and polished, with a mineral tone, leather, ripe fruit and prune flavors. A pretty, elegant expression of Montalcino and of Sangiovese. Bright acidity, too. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Tenuta Friggiali 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Bright delivery with aromas of cola, root beer, humus, crème de cassis, forest berry and wild raspberry. It shows finely textured tannins with a bitter almond or bitter chocolate aftertaste. Brambly, sharp, acidic and well defined. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Tenute Niccolai 2007 Podere Bellarina (Brunello di Montalcino). Aromas of blackberry, plum cake, leather, Indian spice, crushed stone, black pepper and teriyaki sauce. The extraction is in-

Casato1 2007 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). An inky-black appearance and spicysavory aromas make this the kind of Brunello you want to drink on a really cold winter night. Tightly concentrated and extracted, with loads of black cherry, leather and tobacco, there are balsam notes too, but delivered in a big, strong fashion. The smooth, silky finish that is not overly dense or intense. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $50

Collelceto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bright, lively Brunello that happily sheds all pretense. It’s a wine that communicates Sangiovese Grosso in a straightforward, confident and natural manner. There’s bright berry fruit, firm structure and a lean, compact mouthfeel with silky tannins. But don’t mistake this for a simple wine. It’s not. It shows delicate complexity and elegance. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

La Palazzetta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A youthful, bold Brunello with exotic spice, dark vanilla bean, leather, toasted oak and chestnut. Background tones include bramble, wild berry, blueberry and cola. Bright and firm on the finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Lazzeretti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here is a clean, straightforward Brunello with pretty aromas of wild berry, vanilla, leather, spice and rum cake. It shows a genuine, frank style with a sweet, velvety close. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Marchesi Antinori 2007 Pian delle Vigne (Brunello di Montalcino). Bramble and forest floor, cherry cola and savory bresaola notes amount to pretty aromatics with less bulkiness in the mouth. The structure is there but this wine is a bit dry, sharp and less fleshy than many others.Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $80

Pecci Celestino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Spice, cherry liqueur, dark fruit, leather and moist tobacco comprise the bouquet. Structured and firm, the wine delivers a clean, focused feel. Palateur Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $79

Poggio Rubino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bright and direct Brunello with aromatic intensity in the form of small berry, almond skin, toasted espresso and nut notes. There’s a charred, toasted element to the wine that at this young stage adds some astringency to the mouthfeel. Finishes firm and crisp. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Solaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Some charred almond or toast aromas join with black berry and crushed granite in this full and generous wine. Nice linear quality allows the berry fruit to glide over a long smooth finish. Good structure and intensity but not overdone. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

browning rim. Savory aromas of cured meat, cola, dried fruit and rum cake upfront, while warm earthy, tobacco and leather tones fill in the rear. Sophisticated and rich, reminiscent of a storied, nostalgic Brunello tradition. Generous, but with a firm, drying feel on the finish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. Price: $45 abv: 14.5%

Baricci 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. The wine is subdued and clean on the nose and it doesn’t exaggerate or mask the quality of fruit. This is executed in a bright, compact and streamlined style that combines freshness and firmness. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Bellaria 2007 Assunto (Brunello di Montalcino). Some superripe notes of strawberry jam and candied fruit lead into notes of rum cake, cherry liqueur and cured meat. A bold, masculine mouthfeel comes courtesy of firm, structured tannins. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. Price: $54 abv: 14.5%

Bonacchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Big and bold, but a bit disjointed aromatically. Ripe fruit and pipe tobacco vie with a fine note of graphite or lead pencil. It seems soft, with a touch of sweetness, but crisp tannins. Give it a few more years to unwind. Finishes thick and chewy. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Cantina di Montalcino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bright nose of cherry, vanilla and rum cake leads into a moderately intense midpalate, with bright endnotes of dried mint and ginger on the cool, crisp finish. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $46

Talenti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Cola, black licorice, cherry liqueur and rum cake presage loads of ripe fruit and power. Yet it’s lean and compact on the finish, with bright acidity that would pair well with pecorino stagionato or any aged cheese.Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Collosorbo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Here’s a tight, streamlined Brunello characterized by a toasted or charred almond note and bright forest notes of wild berry and underbrush. The mouthfeel is lean and tight, and there’s a tannic firmness that holds it together. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Villa I Cipressi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello opens with a sweet nose of vanilla and cherry. The bouquet is straightforward, giving the wine a frank, no-nonsense personality. Flavors of spice, leather and tobacco appear later, rendering more depth. It feels youthful, soft and chewy on the close. A.I. Selections . —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

Il Marroneto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Nice ripeness, fullness and generosity here. The bouquet opens with bold brushstrokes that don’t match the delicate, subdued feel in the mouth. It delivers most of its energy on the nose and segues to a much calmer, more straightforward style on the close. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

Agostina Pieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A delicate and subtle expression of Sangiovese Grosso, with tight touches of wild berry, almond skin, forest bramble, rum cake, cola and eucalyptus. Streamlined and tight, with great power on the close. A very compact and tightly constructed wine. Rare Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Brunello di Montalcino). Garnet-ruby hue with slightly

La Colombina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine strikes a nice balance between sweet and savory spice on the nose, with ripe fruit, prune and leather in the background. This is a velvety, warm, earthy wine with a broad aromatic delivery and bold Brunello style. It’s smooth and round, without any of the sharp acidic accents you sometimes find in Sangiovese Grosso. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

La Rasina 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A bold, inky-black style that is slightly overdone and a touch overripe. Despite aromas of blackberry preserves, prune and rum cake, this is a strongly masculine wine that puts its savory side first. The close is packed tight with smoked bacon and cured beef aromas. Textured tannins create some astringency on the finish. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

Le Gode 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This Brunello shows elegant aromatic restraint in its tight aromas of wild berry and red currant. Dark flavors of barbecue spice, cured meat, leather and tobacco layer the midpalate, then turn fine and full on the finish. Conexport. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $80

Marchesato degli Aleramici 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a progression of aromas here, with some bright candied fruit alongside rum cake, dried ginger, licorice and forest floor. The fruit component resembles crème de cassis and red currant. Despite all that pretty movement in the bouquet, the wine is lean and bright in the mouth, and gets the job done in terms of keeping the palate refreshed. Fedway Imports. —M.L. Price: $45 abv: 14%

Pinino 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine goes from delivering savory spice, cured meat and smoked bacon to being lean and not too intense or persistent on the close. The alcohol and dry tannins want more plush fruit for support. USA Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $40

Ridolfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Spicy wood notes, dark fruit, rum cake, dried ginger, licorice and cola add up to an ethereal and elegant Brunello that is more smooth and silky than it is bold and bulky. Spice, sandalwood and cedar appear on the close, but it has a compact, streamlined structure. George Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

SassodiSole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A classic Brunello with a savory, aged quality that exudes sophistication and elegance. Dried fruit, cassis, spice, old leather and rum cake form the bouquet. The wine is finely textured, sharp and clean in the mouth. Seems aged, savory and austere. The Gullà Group. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14%

Villa Poggio Salvi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. An aging wine with a garnet-ruby color and bricking at the rim. Aromas of barbecue smoke, cured meat, leather, tobacco and dark fruit give way to tight, finely textured tannins on the palate. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $45

Vini Italiani da Sogno 2007 Carillon (Brunello di Montalcino). The subtle, subdued nose is of perfumed spice, dried red rose and currant. But there is chewy softness here and enough extraction to hold the wine firm on the palate. The strucWineMag.com | 17

ture is there but the fruit definition is less apparent. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

ble, white almond and cola. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14%

Armilla 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. There’s a dark smoky element to this hearty Brunello that recalls cured beef, moist earth, cedar, leather and rum cake. The wine is silky and smooth, with a noticeably clean quality to the finish.Jao Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Bellaria 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This wine’s ripe cherry fruit and milk chocolate notes suggest softness and roundness. But the wine shows astringency and firmness on the close. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

Casa Raia 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark, inky and brooding, this thickly extracted Brunello shows thick layers of ripe cherry, crème de cassis and blackberry with background tones of rum cake, ground clove, cola, leather and fresh tobacco. There’s a meaty element of bresaola or smoked bacon as well. IPO Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $36

Col di Lamo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Milk chocolate and sweet cherry aromas appear alongside cured meat and plump black fruit. This is a straightforward Brunello with a creamy, soft close. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

Ferrero 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Showing youthful oak tones that still need time to integrate, this wine is a bit sour and ripe at the same time. Black cherry, tobacco, leather and spice aromas are nice, but the tannins are firm, and the wine shows a bright point of acidity on the close and a gritty, cookedfruit finish. K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

La Fiorita 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This hearty Brunello shows a ripe, almost jammy personality with strawberry and raspberry preserve notes. There are background tones of exotic spice, vanilla and cinnamon that help support the wine’s chewy fruit. The mouthfeel is soft and velvety. Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

La Torre 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. A pretty ensemble of floral tones, ripe fruit and toasted almond leads into drying touches of granite and mineral, with some root beer-like notes. Some raw berry aromas need time to soften. Shows a silky, polished feel, then turns compact, crisp, firm and clean on the close. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

Le Chiuse 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Charred almond and graham cracker notes need time to integrate. The wine is compact and lean in the mouth, with endnotes of small berry fruit, bram18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Tassi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Subdued on the nose, this wine still needs to stretch its proverbial muscles. Its flavors of cherry liqueur, rum cake, blackberry and forest underbrush give voice to a clean, traditional winemaking philosophy. Wine Emporium. —M.L. Price: $70 abv: 15% Livio Sassetti 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Almost completely black, this wine reveals inky-dark concentration and dark, jammy fruit. Shows power and smoky barbecue aromas of soy sauce, teriyaki, bresaola, cherry liqueur, rum cake, Spanish cedar and sticky pipe tobacco. Cured meat and savory spice as well. Seems extracted and overripe, with hard tannins.Massanois Imports. —M.L. Price: $55 abv: 13.5%

2006 BRUNELLO RISERVA

Valdicava 2006 Madonna del Piano Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva shows enormous thickness and blackness, like midnight of a new moon. The wine delivers impenetrable density, extraction, black fruit, spice, berry preserves, licorice, asphalt, ground black pepper, cherry liqueur and crème de cassis. There are seemingly no limits to the intensity and complexity here. The mouthfeel is dense, plush, firmly structured and very long. Keep this Brunello safely in your cellar 20 years or more. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $275 abv: 14%

Capanna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is simply gorgeous, with loads of fresh fruit, mineral, spice, leather, tobacco and long aging potential. The freshness and structure is definitely present, while the mouthfeel is luscious and opulent with vanilla, espresso and dried herb or menthol overtones. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $80 abv: 15%

Il Poggione 2006 Riserva Vigna Paganelli (Brunello di Montalcino). This vineyarddesignated riserva delivers perfumed notes of red rose, pressed flower and a bright, berry-driven bouquet. In the mouth, this is a plump, bold wine with thick concentration and loads of dark fruit such as blackberry and plum. The tannic firmness suggests at least 10 years of cellar aging. Overall, it is beautiful, elegant and bold. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $95 abv: 14.5%

Tenuta La Fuga 2006 Le Due Sorelle Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva shows gorgeous intensity and a beautiful, dense texture. There’s just enough softness to cushion the naturally high acidity of 2006. It’s firm, silky, rich, powerful and super long. In fact, the extraordinary length is what sets this wine apart. Age 10–15 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14.5%

Canalicchio di Sopra 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a generous, modern and bold expression of Sangiovese Grosso whose soft layers of chocolate and dark cherry fruit help soften the natural acidity and structure of the 2006 vintage. A polished mineral note adds attractive definition on the finish. Tight and very firm; age this wine 10–20 years. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. Price: $120 abv: 14%

Castello Banfi 2006 Poggio all’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio all’Oro (a wine only produced in the best vintages) is a sophisticated and austere Brunello with just a tiny dab of sweet spice and red rose aromas on the bouquet. Beyond those are steady, savory pulses of tobacco, leather and dark cedar. The wine is plush, textured and rich, with a polished firmness that keeps it grounded on the palate. Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $150 abv: 14%

Castello Romitorio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Artist Sandro Chia and his team have delivered a lush, modern, approachable and opulent riserva with aromas of spice, ripe fruit, chocolate fudge and red cherry. This is a round and supple wine, with a soft, generous mouthfeel backed by firm structure and bright acidity. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Price: $150 abv: 14%

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). From an allfemale winery, this riserva opens with a deep garnet color. Black espresso bean, vanilla pod, toasted chestnut and dark, brooding fruit characterize the bouquet. It is bright and crisp in the mouth, with a sharply defined edge and polished tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Price: $70 abv: 14%

La Serena 2006 Riserva Gemini (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a smooth, balanced and intense wine that opens with a deep, saturated appearance and plush aromas of sweet spice, rum cake, leather, tobacco and ripe blackberry. This bold, modern expression of Brunello shows acidity and tannins that are firm, but not biting.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Price: $135 abv: NA

PianCornello 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Here is a very plush, dark and decadent riserva with soft and luscious tones of ripe fruit, blackberry, moist earth and pipe tobacco. The wine is smooth, dense and enduring. It can be either aged or consumed in 3–5 years. The style reflects a soft, round approach to the crisp 2006 vintage. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L. Price: $70 abv: 14.5%

Poggio Nardone 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio Nardone’s 2006 riserva is a neverending journey of opulence and excellence. Everything is delivered in supersized intensity— the cherry, chocolate, spice, cola, cassis, leather and cedar. The mouthfeel is soft, finely textured, shapely and

long-lasting. This is a beautiful wine that will age many years to come. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

Siro Pacenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Not an obvious wine by any stretch, this riserva opens slowly and bashfully to deliver small pulses of cherry, chocolate and smoked bacon that build in intensity and power as the wine gains momentum in the glass. The tannins are present but are soft and firm without any bitter astringency. Age 10 years or more. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

Verbena 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A pretty and lusciously layered Brunello with dark fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rum cake aromas. The wine is dense and chewy, with a tight, velvety feel. Dark fruit and spice push the wine across the palate, and both the acidity and tannins are softer than in other 2006 riservas. Michael R. Downey Selections. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14%

Bellaria 2006 Assunto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark fruit aromas of cherry, blackberry and exotic spice comprise the bouquet. There’s inky density, contrasted against delicate aromas of lead pencil, cola and cured meat. The wine is plush, rich and extracted, with dusty, firm tannins. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $85

Castelgiocondo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). An intense and opulent Brunello, with bold brush strokes of ripe cherry, blackberry, chocolate, coffee and mocha. Concentrated fruit and firm tannins are marked by a pretty touch of dusty mineral on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $120

Collosorbo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This successful riserva displays opulence and a bold, modern style that focuses on bright cherry and savory spice aromas. The wine is loaded with density and richness, and combines a ripe soft feel with a lively berries on the finish. Frank Johnson Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Cupano 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sweet oak tones of cinnamon, ripe cherry and raspberry are delivered via a beautifully intense bouquet. This is a Brunello with tight tannins, fresh acidity and solid structure. Verdeor Select Vintages. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $130

Fornacina 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with dark concentration and extra flesh and density in terms of texture. There’s an extra padding of softness that helps buffer the vintage’s high acidity and natural firmness. Not ready to

drink for another 10 years at least. Villa Italia. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $92

Gianni Brunelli 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This interpretation of Sangiovese Grosso is clean, polished, ripe and elegant. It opens with dark concentration and berry notes of cassis and candied cherry, and then rum cake, leather and tobacco show up on the finish, backed by firm tannins and bright acidity. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Il Mio Brunello Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Inky color, with a broad array of aromas, including earth, candied fruit, plum cake and cinnamon spice. Smooth and luscious in the mouth, where its tight structure shows promising potential for longevity. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $110

ber highlights on the rim. The wine is soft, plush and rich with candied fruit, leather, spice, licorice, crushed mineral and asphalt. Margate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L. Price: $85 abv: 14.5%

Quattroventi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful riserva opens with dark concentration and bold berry notes spanning from cassis to blackberry. It’s a ripe, extracted wine with savory spice and cured meat aromas that fill in the back. Crushed black pepper and cardamom also make a brief, but lively, appearance. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

San Filippo di Giannelli 2006 Le Lucére Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dense, bold and beautiful, with notes of plush cherry, blackberry, clove, cinnamon, cola and dried rosemary. Polished, with a dusty, silky feel to the long finish.A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Price: $110 abv: 14%

La Fortuna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is silky, firm and polished, with bright fruit nuances of wild berry, almond skin, cola and lingering menthol overtones. The mouthfeel is bright and crisp, with a very fine, smooth texture. Dusty mineral notes appear on the finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

San Lorenzo 2006 Bramante Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). From one of Tuscany’s most celebrated wine areas, this luscious wine is soft, beautifully textured and plush. It shows ripe red fruit, plus leather, tobacco, sweet cinnamon and marzipan on the bouquet.Vos Vinum Importing Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

La Gerla 2006 Riserva gli Angeli (Brunello di Montalcino). Always a beautiful wine, this edition of Riserva gli Angeli is austere, sophisticated, lean and elegant. It shows a fine, silky texture with bright aromas of wild berry, cola and mint. There are also interesting tertiary aromas of leather, dusty mineral and cured meat at the back. Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

La Poderina 2006 Poggio Abate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a sassy, spicy quality here, with clove and spice, cola, root beer and black licorice. Smooth, dark extraction with bold structure. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

Mocali 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello delivers an intense and complex bouquet featuring beautifully integrated aromas of dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. Tight tannins promise a long future ahead.Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $65

San Polino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A rich and sophisticated wine, with loads of dark fruit and exotic spice. It’s bright rubygarnet appearance, with bright acidity and a fresh, lively finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $85

San Polo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a beautiful wine with opulent aromas of chocolate fudge, cherry, vanilla bean and bright berry fruit. Yet in the mouth, it’s is very focused, with enough structure and acidity to promise a long future. The finish is silky and fine. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The aromas feature beautiful tones of black mineral, licorice, peppercorn and ripe fruit. This is a dark, brooding Brunello with an elegant, dry nose and layers of opulence that build momentum. Overall, it’s round, rich and well structured. Drink after 2018. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Podere Brizio 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine has some big shoulders. There’s a dusty, aged quality, with sophisticated, silky tannins and tertiary aromas of black licorice, dried tobacco, peppercorn and dried berry fruit. It’s firm, tight and compact; age 10 more years. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

Poggio il Castellare 2006 Pian Bossolino Riseva (Brunello di Montalcino). A dark inky wine with a bold garnet color and some am-

Camigliano 2006 Gualto Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Holds back just a bit initially, but then evolves slowly and steadily. Delivers a very firm, polished and linear feel in the mouth. Dusty aromas of crushed stone and crushed white pepper are backed by cola, cassis and red currant. An elegant and sophisticated Brunello. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90

Canneta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Well etched, defined and crisp, this is a strong, determined wine with loads of power, acidity WineMag.com | 19

and firmness. The wine shows all the criteria for a long cellar life, softening slowly as the wine evolves. Age 10– 20 more years. Orvino Imports & Distribution. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $49

Capanne Ricci 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A plump and juicy Brunello with bold, fresh fruit and loads of aromatic intensity. Cherry, plum and blackberry are backed by evolved tones of leather, spice and cola. Shows delicate details of wild berry and almond paste on the close. Smooth and velvety. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Caprili 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A lovely riserva, with bold, opulent notes of cherry and plum. Leather, tobacco, rum cake, cola and dried sage add complexity.Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $75

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with a dry, dusty firmness that comes through both on the nose and in the mouth. This is fresh and tightly woven with very fine aromas of cassis, spice, crushed stone and milled white pepper. Very firm and tight; age 10 years. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $52

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2006 Vigna Manapetra Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva opens with a textured, granular mouthfeel that is packed tight with leather, tobacco, dried berry and cola flavors. The close is fresh and menthol-driven. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $58

Fuligni 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sweet spice and dark fruit aromas offer all the telltale signs of a top-notch riserva. The wine is bright with etched acidity and strong tannins. Let it age 10 years or more. Defined, compact mouthfeel. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $153

Il Poggiolo E. Cosimi 2006 Beato Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Pleasurable and modern, with a dense opulence that makes a wine like this attractive on so many levels. It delivers deep layers of ripe fruit, blackberry, vanilla bean, espresso and black pepper. Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

La Mannella 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Tight, linear and compact. Clean, crisp and precise. Small berry aromas of cassis, wild berry and cherry are framed by firm, dusty tannins and a touch of toasted oak. Casa Torelli . —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Lazzeretti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sophisticated, with tertiary aromas of crushed mineral, asphalt, cola, dried mint, wild berry and cassis. On the palate, it’s tight, compact and linear, with a long, polished finish. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA 20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Le Chiuse 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This beautiful Brunello opens with lavish tones of dark fruit, exotic spice, espresso bean and crushed black pepper. The mouthfeel is interesting because it starts off bold and rich, but ends with the focused or chiseled sharpness that is typical of Sangiovese Grosso. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $95

Lisini 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Shows a pretty, polished nose with dusty mineral notes backed by elegant tones of dried berry, spice and leather. Nice complexity and balance. Loads of tobacco-like sensations on the close. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $118

Mocali 2006 Vigna delle Raunate Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This riserva is loaded with fruit. It’s a dark, inky wine that oozes black cherry, exotic spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. After the tightness and firmness of the mouthfeel, the wine offers a playful endnote of blackberry jam. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. Price: $50 abv: 14%

Terralsole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Pressed rose, slightly dusty mineral shadings, spice and black fruit make up the bouquet of this elegant, harmonious wine. This expression is astringent and firm, with bright acidity and a solid tannic backbone. Let it soften with more cellar aging. Terralsole. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80 Altesino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello Riserva is defined by a layer of coffee and espresso that peels back nicely to reveal dark fruit, cassis, leather and tobacco. It’s smooth, ripe, fresh and structured. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

Brunelli Martoccia 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello offers interesting complexity in its cola and balsam notes. The wine has a big, bright intensity, with crisp acidity and a lean, compact mouthfeel that’s rather austere and stern. Ultimately the wine is more generous on the nose than in the mouth and finishes with lasting freshness. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. Price: $80 abv: 14%

Molino di Sant’Antimo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Linear, focused and bright, with rich, fleshy fruit in the form of cherry, blackberry and spiced plum cake. This is a fleshy pretty wine with an elegant mouthfeel. Delectatio Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55

Cantina di Montalcino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A traditional style of riserva, this wine shows aromas of spice, candied berry, smoked bacon, cinnamon, white pepper and dried sage. There’s also a floral element of red rose or lavender. It is light and crisp, with a firm finish. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $115

Piccini 2006 Villa al Cortile Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Black cherry and coffee notes come to the fore and are followed by softer layers of spice, clove and cardamom. Pressed roses too. Firm and linear in the mouth with a tight tannic bite on the close. Drink after 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60 Pinino 2006 Pinone Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers loads of coffee and soft intensity, with ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake and exotic spice. That extra roundness works well with this wine’s high acidity and tannic structure. USA Wine Imports. —M.L. Price: $47 abv: 13.5% Poggio Antico 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Sharply defined aromas of spice, chiseled mineral, dried tobacco and cassis open the bouquet of this dark, concentrated wine. There’s a floral note of spicy potpourri and cinnamon stick, tight tannins and bright acidity.The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $140

San Felice 2006 Campogiovanni Il Quercione Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Dark, brooding, thick, masculine, this wine shows loads of big Brunello personality. It offers thick concentration, a velvety and plush mouthfeel, followed by dark flavors of blackberry, prune, spice, leather, cedar and pipe tobacco. Premium Brands. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $135

Fattoria dei Barbi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This brunello offers a pretty bouquet, showing elegance and restraint at the same time. There are layers of small berry fruit, spice and leather, with dusty, dry tannins. The wine’s overall astringency should soften with time.Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $90 Innocenti 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The wine gives an impression of being supple and soft, at least on the nose, but you can feel the firm structure in the mouth. The quality of the tannins is dusty, firm and unyielding at this early stage. Drink in 5–10 years. Mission Wine Company. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 14.5% La Collina dei Lecci 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine presents a dark wall of inky concentration with aromas of ripe fruit and raw cherry. There are earthy tones in the background that are characteristic of Sangiovese, with floral and menthol nuances as well. The tannins are firm and polished. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $52

La Fiorita 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A Brunello on the bold and ripe side, with smoked bacon, blackberry, sweet spice, rum cake and black licorice. It shows impressive staying power.

It’s tannic, firm and ready for a long aging future ahead. Chambers & Chambers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

La Fornace 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello opens with floral notes of pressed red rose and clay soil. Bright fruit, blackberry, leather and tobacco aromas are framed by firm tannins. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

Marchesato degli Aleramici 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s an exotic, spicy element here that gives this riserva a unique and compelling quality. Coffee, espresso and bitter chocolate also identify it. The mouthfeel is dry and tight, suggesting long aging potential. More than fruit, this wine shows tertiary aromas and crushed mineral in the mouth. Fedway Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $75

Podere Paganico 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Notes of root beer, dried sage, wild berry and bramble with menthol overtones define this wine. There are subtle wood tones of spice, clove and black pepper, and the finish is crisp and streamlined with a touch of cherry sweetness. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Talenti 2006 Pian di Conte Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine offers some cola, sage and fresh menthol notes. It’s an elegant package with aromatic intensity, balanced acidity and firm, tight structure. The wine is lean, compact and tight and needs another 5–10 years to come into focus. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Tassi 2006 Franci Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This unique expression of Sangiovese Grosso is influenced by oak tones to produce aromas of Spanish cedar and sandalwood, giving the bouquet a rich personality. Bold fruit tones of cherry and blackberry also come into focus, and the wine is surprisingly firm in the mouth. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Tenuta di Sesta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This elegant Brunello opens to a lean, streamlined style. The garnet color is true to the Sangiovese variety and so are the wine’s aromas of forest berry, earth and pressed flower. You’ll like the bright, soft close, with its tiny touch of fruity sweetness. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $140

Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Huge, dark concentration makes this wine almost too much of a good thing. It offers inky density, with cured meat, spice, dark fruit, prune, blackberry and blackberry pie. Its bold astringency needs more time to soften. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $90

Tornesi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello shows a feminine and

bright personality, with aromas of leather, small berry fruit, cassis and licorice. It’s structured and crisp, with good freshness and a silky mouthfeel. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $80

Uccelliera 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Always a knockout Brunello, Uccelliera’s 2006 Riserva seems on the ripe side, with jammy fruit aromas and savory beef jerky notes at the back. The firmness and natural acidity associated with Sangiovese is present, but the aromas show hints of candied fruit and spicy plum cake. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Price: $65 abv: 15%

Villa Poggio Salvi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This is a broad, masculine Brunello with layers of spice, leather, Spanish cedar, cola and cured meat. The mouthfeel is streamlined and elegant, with crisp acidity and a solidly tannic base. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 14%

Collelceto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Warm spice and dark fruit tones with cured meat, bresaola, licorice, black pepper, leather and tobacco define this expression. The wine is plush rich, structured and firm.Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 14%

Fattoi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This dark wine opens with bright fruit aromas that are soft and straightforward. The wine presents bold cherry, blackberry and spicy rum cake flavors, and a mouthfeel that is fresh and round. The finish is dominated by chewy berry fruit. Tricana Imports. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14.5%

La Palazzetta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a bright, pungent, inyour-face aroma of dried fruit and black currant. Maybe a touch of dried apple, too. This wine offers dark concentration with loads of density and intensity. Plush, rich and nicely framed by firm tannins and a drying mineral note, it shows positive evolution in the glass. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 14.5%

Le Gode 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). A sweet nose of oak spice, almond marzipan and cherry cola makes for a nice first impression. It boasts loads of balsam intensity with cola, ginger and black licorice. It’s ripe, chewy and covers the palate while delivering tight structure on the long finish. Conexport. —M.L. Price: $90 abv: 14.5%

Le Macioche 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Linear and bright, with firm structure and smoky hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit. This is a bold, austere Brunello, with notes of root beer and white pepper on the close. Vintner Select. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 14.5%

Palazzo 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Opens with dark, savory layers of Indian spice, candied fruit, plum, licorice and graham cracker. The texture is thick, viscous and rich, but a bright touch of acidity washes over the palate and keeps it refreshed. The endnote features tertiary aromas of leather, cola and crushed mineral. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $105

Poggio Rubino 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Neutral on the nose with smoked ham and dark leather tones, this wine shows tertiary aromas of wild mushroom, earth and black licorice. It has a ripe, round quality to its fruit, with firm structure. Very tangy, bright and refreshing on the close. . —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

SassodiSole 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello has a warm, earthy personality embodied by its wild mushroom, leather, tobacco and ripe fruit notes. There’s crème de cassis and cherry liqueur as well. The wine’s mouthfeel is bright and crisp. The Gullà Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $88

Tenuta Oliveto 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine definitely shows a ripe side in its cured meat, tobacco, sandalwood, smoked bacon and old spice. Delivers a rich, plump feel in the mouth, backed by gritty tannins and bright acidity. Despite the cooler vintage, this wine packs power, heat and a tiny touch of sweetness on the close. IMA Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $79

Collemattoni 2006 Vigna Fontelontano Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This vineyard-designated Riserva shows a broad portfolio of tertiary aromas with crushed stone, licorice, cassis, leather and smoked meat. It is evolved and silky, with a fresh, crisp close and enough complexity to ride smoothly across the palate. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $79

Sesti 2006 Phenomena Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, cooked quality with black fruit, toasted nut, cured meat and wild mushroom to this expression. The fruit tones are candied and mature, and the wine offers a ean and compact mouthfeel with a two-fold blast of acidity and tannin.Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Terre Nere 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Ripe aromas of dark fruit, crème de cassis and cherry liqueur. The wine is thick, juicy and chewy, with a touch of tightness or astringency on the close.Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

La Torre 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine has a more vinous nose with bold cherry and raspberry aromas followed by leather, WineMag.com | 21

spice and Spanish cedar. Textured and firm, bright and fresh. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

ecuted with a bold, modern flair. Oak tones characterize the wine. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $100

Podere La Vigna 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello shows aromas of leather and cured meat without much fresh fruit to hold it up. The structure and acidity is there, along with tertiary aromas of crushed mineral, asphalt, candied fruit and dried sage. Royalty Importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $90

Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine feels wrapped in sunshine and warmth. There’s ripe fruit, plus leather, barbecue sauce, cured meat and blackcurrant. A soft, plush mouthfeel with a firm tannic backbone lends sensations of dryness and power. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $85

Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. This well extracted wine is loaded with ripe fruit, cassis, tobacco, leather and chocolate-covered cherry. The wine is still young and astringent, so let those tannins soften over the next 5–10 years. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60 Tenuta Vitanza 2006 Tradizione (Brunello di Montalcino). Tradizione is a soft and luscious Brunello with inky dark concentration and intense aromas of dark fruit, rum cake and currant. The wine is smooth and supple, with a finish that can be counted in minutes. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $46

Marchesi Antinori 2006 Pian delle Vigne Riserva Vignaferrovia (Brunello di Montalcino). This wine opens with some volatility that shows up as dried apple skin, strawberry jam, apricot and dusty earth. It offers polished tannins and bright, buoyant feel. There are loads of ripe strawberry on the close. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $130

Casato1 2006 Voliero (Brunello di Montalcino). Brunello Voliero is a dark and savory wine that is packed tight with red berry, cherry liqueur, toasted spice, leather and lasting tones of dried tobacco and cigar box. Three years of aging in large oak casks has helped shape a soft, velvety and polished mouthfeel. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $55

2006 BRUNELLO

Casanova di Neri 2006 Cerretalto (Brunello di Montalcino). Cerretalto delivers aromas of natural complexity and oak-driven tones of cinnamon, clove, chocolate and exotic spice. The fruit is dark, dense and ripe. There’s extra roundness and density in the mouth that holds together the wine’s firm tannins and its crisp, acidic component. Hold 10– 20 more years. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $215

La Rasina 2006 Il Divasco (Brunello di Montalcino). La Rasina has hit a winning formula with Il Divasco. This wine is bold and opulent, with lavish layers of bright fruit, spice, cola and leather. It is one of those Brunellos that seems to have melted chocolate fudge at its core with a round, soft mouthfeel. Impressive intensity and complexity are both there. Montecastelli Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Price: $75 abv: 14.5%

Tenimenti Angelini 2006 Vigna Spuntali Val di Suga (Brunello di Montalcino). This full-bodied wine opens with compelling aromas of black fruit, smoked bacon, leather, cinnamon and crushed clove. There’s a sassy, spicy characteristic here that is further underlined by the wine’s natural sweetness and roundness. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $106

Villa Le Prata 2006 Selezione Massimo (Brunello di Montalcino). Selezione Massimo is a dense and concentrated Brunello that delivers dark fruit, espresso, cola, blackberry and licorice. It’s a beautiful interpretation of the Montalcino territory, ex22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Il Valentiano 2006 Campo di Marzo (Brunello di Montalcino). Darkly concentrated, boldly aromatic and intense, this pretty Brunello delivers modern aromas of chocolate, espresso bean, ripe fruit, blackberry and rum cake. The mouthfeel is smooth and rich, and the wine maintains its momentum thanks to the softness of its texture. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $60

Tenuta Carlina 2006 La Togata (Brunello di Montalcino). This vintage of La Togata has a dark, brooding garnet color, and compelling aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake, spice, leather, dried ginger and pipe tobacco. If offers a soft, plush texture and a velvety finish. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

Coldisole 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. Coldisole opens with oak-driven aromas of coffee bean, smoked bacon, dark spice and savory bresaola and fruit aromas that resemble dried prune, cassis and plum cake. The wine excels in the mouth where it displays silky, polished feel. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

Ruffino 2006 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello di Montalcino). This Brunello opens with elegantly on the nose, with small berry, cassis and wild blueberry aromas. Beyond the steady, feminine bouquet is a wine that has power, determination and personality, with savory endnotes of spice and fresh pipe tobacco. Icon Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $79

Tenute Niccolai 2006 Podere Bellarina (Brunello di Montalcino). This 2006 Brunello delivers loads of rich intensity, chocolate fudge, ripe

cherry and tobacco, with soft, velvety tones at the back. It’s a bold, masculine wine with an attractive personality. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $70

Livio Sassetti 2006 Pertimali (Brunello di Montalcino). The 2006 Pertimali tastes better than the 2006 Riserva and the 2007 Brunello. This wine is uniquely characterized by bold freshness and richness showing the clean and precise quality of Sangiovese fruit. The aftertaste is long, spicy and firm. Give this wine 5–10 more years. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

Vini Italiani da Sogno 2006 Carillon (Brunello di Montalcino). Carillon opens with a dark, concentrated appearance and smoky aromas of barbecue, spice and toasted oak. The fruit element comes forth on the palate, revealing the wine’s bright cherry and crème de cassis notes. Panebianco. —M.L. Price: $60 abv: 13.5%

Lisini 2006 Ugolaia (Brunello di Montalcino). Ugolaia is a delicious and attractive wine, but there’s no denying that the overripe aromas of strawberry and raspberry jam subtract from the wine’s overall sophistication. The mouthfeel is soft, round and plush. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $140

Villa I Cipressi 2006 Zebras (Brunello di Montalcino). Lean and light, with aromas of muddled fruit and spice. This wine does not have huge staying power but the wine does offer a simple, clean close, with a touch of fresh acidity. A.I. Selections . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $70

OTHER BRUNELLOS

Col d’Orcia 2004 Poggio al Vento (Brunello di Montalcino). Poggio al Vento (from the 2004 vintage) shows smoky and savory notes of forest floor, bramble, cured meat, barbecue spice and teriyaki sauce. The wine is compact in the mouth, with polished tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Price: $150 abv: 14.5%

Rendola 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. An older vintage, the 2004 Rendola opens with notes of ripe fruit, pressed flowers, exotic spice, leather and licorice, with a clean, polished mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Castello di Vicarello 2005 Carlo Baccheschi Berti Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). This garnet-colored riserva opens with savory spice, leather notes, with aromas of cured meat and barbecue smoke. The 2005 vintage was a warm one, and the ripeness of the fruit is evident on the bouquet and in the soft texture of the mouthfeel. Drink now. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO

Capanne Ricci 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This Rosso boasts impressively intense and pure Sangiovese aromas. The wine is compackt, with red berry, rum cake, dried rosemary, ginger and spice. It’s a small step away from the quality of Brunello at a fraction of the price. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Canalicchio di Sopra 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This wine is a bright, plump and succulent expression of Sangiovese Grosso, showing easy, crisp structure enhanced by bold aromas of plum, leather and spice. There’s a silky, fine nature to the polished tannins. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

Caprili 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This impressive Rosso offers lush aromas of rum cake, coffee, spice, pipe tobacco and dark fruit. It shows warm, earthy or leathery notes in the mouth that are rounded off by fresh Sangiovese acidity. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Castello Romitorio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This wien is rich in balsam notes of eucalyptus, dried rosemary, ginger and cherry cola. The bouquet is distinctive, and the wine ends with a bright, fresh finish. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27

San Felice 2010 Campogiovanni (Rosso di Montalcino). Perfect for pairing with grilled meat, white beans or hearty pasta dishes, this bright Rosso di Montalcino opens with notes of plush cherry, with almond, spice, leather and tobacco. The mouthfeel is characterized by toasted oak notes and bright acidity. Premium Brands. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23

Siro Pacenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This balanced Rosso delivers intense aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry, spice, sweet cherry and rum cake. The wine’s consistency is rich and smooth, with a refreshing touch of acidity on the close. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Tenimenti Angelini 2010 Val di Suga (Rosso di Montalcino). This impressive Rosso delivers a silky and smooth texture, with aromas of bright fruit backed by toasted nut and spice. The balance and overall harmony of the mouthfeel are what set this wine apart. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21

Altesino 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a soft, round Rosso that imparts fresh tones of cherry and blackberry as it rolls across the palate. The wine is simple, crisp and nicely textured with smooth, silky lines. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

Castelli Martinozzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a really pretty Rosso with a bright, fruit-driven bouquet. It opens with notes of raspberry and wild berry, with background tones of cinnamon and crushed clove. The finish is acidic and crisp. Alnam Wine for All. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

Castiglion del Bosco 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. From an excellent vintage, this bright Rosso offers creamy aromas of espresso mousse and milk chocolate, with steady pulses of cherry and blackberry at the back. The wine’s fresh acidity pairs well with cheesy pasta or pizza. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

Fattoria La Lecciaia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Excellent growing conditions and quality fruit shape this fresh, food wine that pairs well with pasta or meat dish. The bouquet is redolent of black cherry, plum, chocolate mocha and spice. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Fossacolle 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This plump Rosso di Montalcino offers ripe, succulent fruit notes of black cherry, blueberry and fresh plum, rounded by toasted espresso and almond. All that results in a soft, round and smooth mouthfeel. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Geografico Castello Tricerchi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a bright and fresh Rosso that delivers notes of red cherry, raspberry and cassis. The wine has a smoky element on the finish that intensifies an otherwise smooth mouthfeel. Monarchia Matt International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2010 Castelgiocondo Campo ai Sassi (Rosso di Montalcino). From Montalcino’s picturesque Castelgiocondo estate, Campo ai Sassi (“field of stones”) is a soft, plush Rosso, with aromas of black cherry, vanilla and mocha. The wine imparts a round, velvety feel in the mouth, with a steady, simple personality. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

Poggio Nardone 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This pretty Rosso di Montalcino opens with a concentrated appearance and aromas of ripe fruit, spice, toasted nut and dried rosemary. A bit thin on the finish, the wine concludes with silky tannins and a fresh touch. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Sesti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. From the Castello di Argiano property, Sesti’s delicious Rosso has bright aromas of small berry, dried rosemary, dark chocolate and toasted almond. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Talenti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Talenti’s Rosso is an impressive expression of Sangiovese, with bold brushstrokes of ripe berry, spice, blue flow-

er, toasted nut and dried herb. This is a compelling red wine from Tuscany that would pair well with lasagna or cheesy pasta. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

Tenuta La Fuga 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This Rosso displays soft aromas of red cherry, chocolate and light spice that create a clean and balanced bouquet. Its smooth, fresh mouthfeel suggests it would pair with veal, roast turkey or pork. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $36

Tenuta Vitanza 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This hearty Rosso opens with earthy tones of leather, tobacco and dried rose petal. The wine’s consistency is sharp and defined with uplifting acidity. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

Belpoggio 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This is a nicely fragrant Rosso that shows bright nuances of raspberry, wild strawberry and pressed rose petal. The wine is smooth and silky to the end. Vino Direct. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $50

Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo 2008 Rosso di Montalcino. From Montalcino’s most historic estate, this pretty Rosso opens with a bright, ruby color and aromas of spice and forest fruit. It delivers bright acidity and silky tannins in the mouth. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

Brunelli Martoccia 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. There’s a focused quality to the fruit in this bright Rosso that resembles red candy, bright raspberry and sour cranberry. A softly toasted note of oak spice rounds out the mouthfeel and gives the wine extra depth and texture. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

Cordella 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Easy, fresh and succulent, this ruby-colored Rosso would make a great match for grilled sausage or hamburger patties. There’s a ripe, chewy texture to the mouthfeel, with a finish that’s driven by dark fruit flavors. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Fattoria dei Barbi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. You absolutely can’t go wrong with a wine like this plump, textured expression of Rosso di Montalcino. Pair this wine with pork chops or breaded veal as the fresh acidity nicely contrasts against those sweet cuts of meat. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

La Poderina 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Fresh and bright, this wine is rich with wild berries, cassis and white cherry aromas that would pair perfectly with home-cooked pasta and meat dishes. It’s natural acidity will cut through the rich consistency of those foods. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 WineMag.com | 23

Podere Paganico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This informal Rosso shows balance and intensity with bright berry aromas and acidity that is not too sharp. In fact, the wine is nicely rounded and supple. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15

Quattroventi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Quattroventi delivers a clean, genuine Rosso with bright notes of raspberry, blueberry, plum and black cherry. There’s a touch of smoke or spice at the back that contributes to a round, easy mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Tenuta Carlina 2009 La Togata (Rosso di Montalcino). La Togata offers a crisp and fresh Rosso, with aromas of bright berry, cherry cola, wild raspberry and lemon zest. The natural acidity of this wine would pair well with lasagna topped with melted mozzarella and Parmigiano. Panebianco. —M.L. Price: $36 abv: 13.5%

Tenuta di Sesta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a textbook Rosso that delivers clear and crisp fruit notes, with pretty nuances of wild berry, red rose and moist earth at the back. The wine feels crisp, lean and silky on the close. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

mension and staying power in the mouth. Panebianco. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 13.5%

Camigliano 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. A crisp, streamlined expression of Sangiovese Grosso that opens with lively aromas of wild berry, white pepper and pressed rose. Pair this wine with sweet meats, such as roasted ham or pork. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Casato1 2010 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino). Pair this food-friendly bright Rosso with meatloaf or pork roasted with chopped fennel and leeks. The wine opens with easy berry aromas backed by blue flower and spice, and there’s a blast of cleansing acidity on the close. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Casato1 2009 Voliero (Rosso di Montalcino). Simple, bright and packed with fresh berry intensity, this easygoing Rosso would pair well with meatloaf, lamp chops or pasta with meat sauce. The wine’s naturally crisp acidity will cut through the fat content of these succulent foods. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23

Mocali 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This wine’s ripe, earthy bouquet is enhanced by the bright aromas of strawberry and blackberry preserve aromas. It’s soft, round, supple and there’s a distant note of plump berry sweetness. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Molino di Sant’Antimo 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Bright red cherry and chewy blackberry notes are followed by sweet spice, nutmeg and cinnamon. There’s a grapy element to the bouquet that underscores the wine’s youth and informality. Delectatio Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Podere Brizio 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Clean, fresh and spicy on the close, this easy Rosso offers mild aromas of wild berry, raspberry and cranberry. The wine delivers a crisp feel in the mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. Price: $27 abv: 14%

Tenuta San Giorgio 2010 Ciampoleto (Rosso di Montalcino). Here’s a lovely Rosso and a rare value wine from one of Tuscany’s most prestigious wine-growing areas. Ciampoleto offers bright berry nuances, light shadings of exotic spice and a fresh, zesty finish. Majestic Imports. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Tenuta Il Poggione 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This lovely Montalcino estate delivers a bright, ruby-colored Rosso that is heavily characterized by fresh forest-fruit aromas and bright acids. The wine is streamlined and pristine. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $28 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. A consistent producer, Silvio Nardi delivers a bright, fresh Rosso, bursting with notes of cherry, raspberry and white chocolate. This is a food-friendly wine that would match up nicely with breaded veal or mushroom risotto. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27 Uccelliera 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This informal wine opens with a dark, ruby color and pretty notes of red berry, rose and pipe tobacco. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Uccelliera 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Uccelliera’s savory Rosso offers a compact mouthfeel, with bright acidity, silky tannins and bright berry aromas. Pair this wine with lamb stewed with exotic spices and grated ginger. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $20

Vini Italiani da Sogno 2010 Carillon (Rosso di Montalcino). This is a dark, plump expression of Sangiovese Grosso that delivers finelytuned aromas of succulent fruit and blackberry. Notes of espresso and dark chocolate give the wine added di-

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Castello Banfi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s the kind of simple Rosso di Montalcino that would pair perfectly with with risotto alla Milanese (with delicate meat flavoring and saffron) or roast pork. It’s a fresh, zesty wine, with bright berry nuances and a clean, sharp mouthfeel. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23 Fattoi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This hearty Rosso opens with spicy aromas of candied fruit, clove, dark spice and cured meat. The wine has a warm, earthy note that is characteristic of Tuscany’s Sangiovese. The mouthfeel is tart, bright and fresh on the finish. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

La Fornace 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This Rosso shows nicely etched lines of wild berry, white almond and smoked spice. The wine is lean and crisp in the mouth and would pair well with a heaping plate of spaghetti and meat sauce. Vignaioli. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Lazzeretti 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. The nose of this succulent Rosso opens with red berry, candied cherry and blackberry tar. Its firm tannins give the wine a textured, almost gritty, mouthfeel. Pacific Wine Distributors. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Máté 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. This silky Rosso offers a lean, compact mouthfeel and intense aromas of red fruit, smoked almond, black olive and sour cherry. There’s a savory note of cured meat on the finish. Vinilandia USA. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

Tiezzi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Tiezzi’s 2010 Rosso shows a dark, austere side, with aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake. The acidity is lively and fresh, and the mouthfeel is balanced and smooth. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Vini Italiani da Sogno 2008 Carillon (Rosso di Montalcino). Rosso Carillon is aged one year in oak to produce smoky notes of toasted almond and exotic spice. The bright, compact mouthfeel offers cola, sour cherry and wild blueberry endnotes. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Poggio Antico 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. There’s a youthful, brambly character to this Rosso that appears as dried sage, rosemary, forest berry and wild mushroom. The wine is bright, fresh and streamlined. The Sorting Table. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $44

San Polo 2008 Rosso di Montalcino. This fresh expression of Sangiovese Grosso offers tight berry aromas, with shades of spice and toasted almond in the background. Bright acidity brings up the rear. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Tenuta Carlina 2010 La Togata (Rosso di Montalcino). This dark Rosso opens with aromas of dark fruit and bramble, with subtle background hints of wild mushroom and cured meat. Endnotes of crushed black pepper and crushed clove bring up the rear. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

La Torre 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. There’s a meaty quality to this Rosso that comes across as candied fruit, plum cake, leather, spice and moist earth. Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

Podere La Vigna 2009 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a simple, brambly expression of Sangiovese Grosso, with bright acidity and lively notes of forest berry and moist earth. This wine has a smoky touch of toasted almond on the close. Royalty Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $30

ry and raspberry followed by rich smoothness. Atlantic Importing. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $37

geous down to the last delicious drop. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $126

Marchesi Antinori 2007 Marchese Antinori Riserva (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese fruit is presented in its most genuine and clean state, with bright berry nuances, violets, moist earth, tobacco and cola. There are wood elements, but they are unobstructive, clean and otherwise relegated to a supporting role. The bouquet shows wild berry, bramble and bright acidity. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Agricola Querciabella 2009 Mongrana (Maremma). This is a terrific super Tuscan blend (of 50% Sangiovese with equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) that drinks beautifully. Bright red fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality and the wine’s structure is perfectly balanced and smooth. It’s a one-size-fits-all wine for our favorite Italian foods. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2007 Cantalici (Chianti Classico). This bright and nicely layered Chianti Classico opens with characteristic Sangiovese aromas of forest fruit and blue flower followed by leather and tobacco. Since the wine spends many months in oak, the finish is soft and spicy. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Pieve Vecchia 2008 Pieve dei Monaci Syrah (Maremma). A pure expression of Syrah from coastal Tuscany, Pieve dei Monaci offers a chewy texture and thick layers of black fruit, prune, cola, spice and smoked bacon. Pair this wine with grilled meat. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $17

TOSCANA

Villa Poggio Salvi 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. Here’s a well-proportioned Rosso that shows notes of fresh raspberry and cherry, with an easy consistency and crisp acidity. The wine’s mouthfeel is lean and crisp. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Il Valentiano 2008 Campo di Marzo (Rosso di Montalcino). There’s a ripe, jammy aroma on the bouquet of this wine that is soon followed by toasted espresso, rum cake, spice and tobacco. The finish is harsh and strong, thanks to a combination of alcohol and high acidity. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

CHIANTI

Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2007 Messer Ridolfo Riserva (Chianti Classico). This bold Chianti Classico opens with earthy aromas of cured meat, tobacco, pipe tobacco and rum cake. The fruit aromas come forth as candied berry, plum and crème de cassis. This wine is aged for one year in oak barrel, resulting in a soft, plush and velvety finish. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Marchesi Antinori 2008 Badia a Passignano Riserva (Chianti Classico). At the heart of Chianti Classico, Badia a Passignano is among the most beautiful wine properties in the world with an ancient abbey that crowns softly rolling hills. This wine is packed tightly with bright cherry, spice and tobacco notes, and lingering touches of wild berry and cola. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $53

Castello d’Albola 2007 Riserva (Chianti Classico). This bright wine offers a straightforward and focused expression of Sangiovese (with a tiny percentage of Canaiolo), with a lean texture and crisp berry nuances. On the close, there’s a pretty accent that recalls white almond. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $28

Castelvecchio 2007 Vigna la Quercia Riserva (Chianti Colli Fiorentini). This wine is ripe and soft, with jammy aromas of blackber-

Castello d’Albola 2008 Le Ellere (Chianti Classico). Le Ellere is a tight and fresh expression of Sangiovese that delivers a clean and crisp quality of fruit. The wine’s acidity makes it a perfect pairing for ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese or chicken in cream sauce. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

Castelvecchio 2009 Il Castelvecchio (Chianti Colli Fiorentini). Sangiovese (with 10% Merlot) forms a solid base for bright aromas of red cherry, cola, leather, tobacco and rum cake in this blend. These two varieties work well together to produce a soft, velvety feel with a touch of ripe fruit on the finish. Atlantic Importing. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

Castello d’Albola 2008 Chianti Classico (Chianti Classico). Here’s a wonderfully fresh and tangy Chianti Classico (Sangiovese with a tiny element of Canaiolo) that opens with a bright, ruby appearance and tangy notes of wild berry, white almond and blue violet. The mouthfeel is fresh and focused. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

Buccia Nera 2008 Guarniente (Chianti). Very fresh and acidic to the point of tasting sour, this ruby-colored Chianti offers bright berry aromas and white cherry crispness. The wine seems perfectly engineered to pair with cheesy pasta or pizza. Wine Country. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

MAREMMA

Fattoria Le Pupille 2008 Saffredi (Maremma). Vintner Elisabetta Geppetti’s Saffredi is part cult wine and part mainstream blockbuster in that the wine enjoys worldwide fame, but few know it well. This vintage is soft and luscious, with loads of dark chocolate, cherry, blackberry, tobacco and spice. It’s gor-

Marchesi Antinori 2008 Solaia (Toscana). Definitely on a top 10 list of Italian icons, Solaia affirms the massive potential of Italian winemaking, from vineyard to cantina to cellar and beyond. Superrich and polished, but never over the top, this gorgeous super Tuscan shows deep layers of chocolate, black cherry, rum cake and spice. The secret lies in its balance: Everything is in place, from intensity and complexity to persistency. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $325

Ca’ Marcanda 2007 Promis (Toscana). From the Tuscan estate of Angelo Gaja, Promis delivers all the gorgeous intensity and complexity you should expect. The wine oozes dark chocolate, cherry liqueur, spice, blackberry and moist tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth; absolutely delicious. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

Marchesi Antinori 2008 Tignanello (Toscana). This landmark Italian wine continues to show the best of Tuscany, as it faithfully does year after year. The quality is obvious, thanks to rich notes of chocolate, black cherry and spice that are wrapped tight within a lush, soft and texture. The close is velvety and very long.Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $99

Poggio Antico 2009 Madre (Toscana). Madre is the name of a beautiful vineyard parcel on the Poggio Antico estate, with views that extend from Montalcino to the Mediterranean Sea. This hearty blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is intense and rich, with long-lasting notes of blackberry, smoke, spice and black pepper. The mouthfeel is lush and velvety. The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $73 WineMag.com | 25

I Giusti e Zanza 2008 Nemorino (Toscana). Nemorino (a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot) shows chewy cherry and blueberry characteristics with easy spice tones on the finish. The wine is fresh and bright and would pair with meat lasagna or tortellini with grated Parmigiano. Vindagra USA. —M.L. Price: $17 abv: 14%

Marchesi Antinori 2009 Achelo Syrah (Cortona). Achelo is a bright, chewy and lively red wine with aromas of blueberry, spice, milk chocolate and crushed white pepper. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Price: $21 abv: 13.5%

ROSÉS

Varramista 2007 Ottopioppi (Toscana). Grenache is a grape variety that is slowly making its mark in central Italy. This 80-20 blend of Sangiovese and Grenache shows the bright cherry and blue flower aromas of Sangiovese with slightly smoked, savory layers in the background. Vigneti D’Italia. —M.L. Price: $30 abv: 13%

Castello d’Albola 2007 Acciaiolo (Toscana). Acciaiolo is a super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that opens with concentrated and opulent aromas of dark cherry, chocolate and exotic spice. The mouthfeel shows heft and depth. Give the wine a few more years in the cellar to soften those toasted oak influences. Zonin USA. —M.L. Price: $90 abv: 13.5%

Collazzi 2007 Rosso (Toscana). Soft and velvety, this super Tuscan blend delivers intense and pure notes of chocolate, cherry, blackberry and spice. It balances a dense, rich texture with loads of bright fruit on the finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L. Price: $39 abv: 14.5%

Poggio Antico 2010 Lemartine (Toscana). A new wine from Poggio Antico, Lemartine is a hearty blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that offers intense and pristine aromas of black fruit, spice, rum cake, pepper and black pipe tobacco. It shows both substance and freshness on the long finish. The Sorting Table. —M.L. Price: $52 abv: NA

Agricola Querciabella 2007 Camartina (Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese opens with plush layers of cherry and blackberry and touches of spice and toast that are never overdone. In fact, the wine shows power and determination allied to delicacy. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L. Price: $130 abv: 14% Bibi Graetz 2009 Testamatta Soffocone di Vincigliata (Toscana). This is a special expression of Sangiovese (and a small amount of Cannaiolo) with a pure, luminous quality aided by subtle aromas of forest berry, white licorice, cola and pressed lavender. It’s an elegant wine from start to finish.—M.L. Price: $45 abv: 14%

Castelvecchio 2007 Il Brecciolino (Toscana). You’re in for a big, bold wine the minute you pour Il Brecciolino into the glass. This blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Petit Verdot opens with a dark, inky color and intense aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry, rum cake and spice. It’s soft, supple and rich. Atlantic Importing. —M.L. Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Buccia Nera 2007 Amadio (Toscana). This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens with earthy aromas of leather, tobacco and button mushroom, followed by fresh cherry. Crisp acidity makes this a good wine to pair with cheesy risotto or pork. Casa Torelli . —M.L. Price: $23 abv: 13.5%

Castello d’Albola 2009 Il Solatio (Toscana). From a vineyard located 580 meters above sea level, Il Solatio delivers cool aromas of wild berry, cola, white mineral and crushed stone. The wine is lean and compact in the mouth, but it definitely bears the mark of its origins. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 13% 26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Mocine 2009 Rosso (Toscana). This organically farmed blend of Sangiovese, Foglia Tonda, Barsaglina and Colorino opens with sweet cherry and blueberry notes followed by light accents of spice and leather. This easygoing wine shows medium intensity and fresh acidity. The Italian Wine Trader. —M.L. Price: $19 abv: 13% Capezzana 2010 Monna Nera (Toscana). In 1475, Monna Nera was the name of the woman who purchased and managed the historic Capezzana wine estate in western Tuscany. This easy wine offers loads of bright cherry aromas and a lean, crisp mouthfeel. MW Imports. —M.L. Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Fattoria la Castellina 2008 Reale (Toscana). Reale (100% Merlot) offers sweet cherry and raspberry aromas with light touches of spice and toasted almond in the background. This ruby colored wine offers an easy, fresh and lean feel in the mouth. Saranty Imports. —M.L. Price: $30 abv: 13%

Buccia Nera 2008 Camprianese (Toscana). This easy blend of Sangiovese and Ciliegiolo opens with a dark, garnet color and sharp aromas of raw cherry and blueberry. It’s finely focused and crisp, making it perfect for pizza or pasta. Potomac Selections. —M.L. Price: $11 abv: 13% Fattoria di San Quintino 2008 La Fagiana (Toscana). La Fagiana is a bright, rubycolored wine with aromas of forest fruit and bramble, with white almond and spice at the back. It’s an easy, nofuss expression with a clean, tart close. Vindagra USA. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 13.5%

Massanera 2005 Prelato di Massanera (Toscana). Vintner Carlo Cattaneo offers a lean, crisp expression of Sangiovese with aromas of cassis and spice. The wine shows sharp acidity on the close. Total Wine & More. —M.L. Price: $35 abv: 13.5%

OTHER TUSCAN REDS

La Braccesca 2010 Sabazio (Rosso di Montepulciano). Sabazio is a bold and savory Rosso di Montepulciano with spicy aromas of leather, tobacco, ripe fruit, blackberry preserves and rum cake. The intensity of the bouquet is there but the mouthfeel is light and tight. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. Price: $15 abv: 13.5%

Pieve Vecchia 2009 Albatrello (Montecucco). Aged only in stainless steel, this blend of Sangiovese and Alicante combines bright fruit nuances of cherry and blueberry with a lean, crisp mouthfeel. It’s got enough acidity to cut through cheesy pizza.Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. Price: $18 abv: 14%

Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 RosaMati Rosé (Maremma). RosaMati opens with a bold pink color and follows up aromatically with bright raspberry, cassis and cranberry. The wine shows a cool, silky feel in the mouth with a crisp close. Winebow. —M.L. Price: $20 abv: 13%

Terre di Talamo 2010 Piano... Piano Rosé (Maremma). Here’s a lively rosé from Tuscany (a 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon) that offers pretty aromas of cranberry, red rose and white almond. Pair it with smoked salmon and capers. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. Price: $15 abv: 13.5%

Terre di Talamo 2009 Piano... Piano Rosé (Maremma). A 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, Piano... Piano opens with a pretty pink color and delicate aromas of rose petal, white cherry and almond paste. Pair this wine with spicy Thai beef and basil. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. Price: $15 abv: 14%

Fabrizio Dionisio 2010 Rosa del Castagno Rosé (Toscana). This bright peach-pink colored rosé is made using Syrah from the Cortona area. It shows aromas of peach, cranberry, white almond and pink grapefruit. USA Wine Imports. —M.L. Price: $29 abv: 13%

Il Poggione 2009 Lo Sbrancato Rosé (Toscana). A rosé of Sangiovese from southern Tuscany (Montalcino), Lo Sbrancato features ripe aromas of wild berry, cranberry and white almond. It’s a simple, fresh wine that would pair well with mussels steamed in cream sauce. Terlato Wines International. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 12.5%

Collemassari 2010 Gròttolo Rosé (Toscana). Made with organically-farmed fruit, Gròttolo is a Tuscan rosé that would pair with shellfish or fresh pasta with grilled vegetables. The wine is layered with bright fruit, cranberry and a touch of fresh acidity. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Pieve Vecchia 2009 Quercerosa Rosé (Maremma). Quercerosa Rosé is pressed from Sangiovese grapes, and offers delicate tones of violet, blue flower and wild berry, with warm, earthy tones in the background. Pair this wine with tomatoes stuffed with basil and white rice. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Salcheto 2009 Rosé (Toscana). This Tuscan rosé made using Sangiovese grapes opens with a pink-purplish color and bright aromas of rose, cranberry and wild forest berry. There’s a pretty touch of bitter almond on the close. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

La Porta di Vertine 2008 Rosato (Toscana). Here’s a sunny rosé made near the beautiful town of Gaiole in Chianti. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano, and the wine offers both fresh fruit and floral aromas. The Vine Collective. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Il Valentiano NV Note di Rosa Rosé (Toscana). This Vino da Tavola rosé has no appellation or vintage date, butopens with ripe strawberry nuances and sweet almond paste. It offers a powdery, semisweet feel in the mouth. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

WHITE WINES

a true masterpiece with amazing intensity and complexity. Mionetto USA. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $55/375 ml

Fattoria Le Pupille 2006 SolAlto (Maremma). This beautiful dessert wine from southern Tuscany (representing a blend of equal parts Traminer, Sauvignon and Sémillon) opens with ripe apricot, honey, toasted almond and candied fruit aromas. The chewy, rich sweetness of the wine is the main protagonist. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30/375 ml

ASTI

ITALIAN MOSCATO Cà ed Balos 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This is a beautiful Moscato d’Asti with peach mousse, tangerine, white almond, honey, ginger and spring flower. Perfect for nut-based desserts, the sparkler is soft and sweet with a distant touch of tangy spice on the finish. Delectatio Wines. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $14

Cascina La Ghersa 2011 Giorgia (Moscato d’Asti). Giorgia presents textbook Moscato d’Asti aromas of sweet flower, fragrant soap, jasmine, honeysuckle and peach blossom. This lively sparkler shows impressive intensity and subtle elegance with a smooth, silky feel in the mouth. Epic Wines. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $19

Ghione 2011 Piccole Gioie (Moscato d’Asti). Piccole Gioie (“little joys”) delivers a steady stream of tiny bubbles that form a foamy, creamy appearance and texture. In fact, a frothy cap remains long in the glass and provides a solid platform for aromas of honey, peach blossom, fragrant flower and dried sage.Epic Wines. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $16

Gianni Doglia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This pretty Moscato d’Asti shows a rich, creamy quality, thanks to the sweet tones of honey, peach and exotic fruit that drive the bouquet. The texture is sticky and thick, but a zesty touch of fresh acidity shows up right at the end to keep the palate refreshed. USA Wine West. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $NA/1.5 L

Terre di Talamo 2010 Vento Teso Viognier (Maremma). This Tuscan expression of Viognier doesn’t show the intense floral aromas you usually find in this fragrant grape variety. Instead, you get layers of citrus, pear and white peach. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23

DESSERT WINE

Capezzana 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo di Carmignano). This gorgeous Vin Santo from the Carmignano subzone of Tuscany is made with 90% Trebbiano and 10% Sancolombano. With a luscious, dark amber color, this sweet wine offers smooth, long tones of raisin, dried apricot, honey and toasted nut. It’s

La Gironda di Galandrino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti delivers pure expressions of both the fragrant Moscato grape and the special territory in northern Italy that shaped this delicate dessert wine. Floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine are presented in a compact, elegant manner thanks to the temperate growing conditions in Piedmont. The finish is creamy, frothy and rich. Wine Appellations Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $8

Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Luca Bosio’s pretty Moscato d’Asti opens with characteristic aromas of ginger, tangerine skin and acacia flower. This sweet sparkler presents a mouthful of creamy foam and bright bubbles. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $18

Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Poggio Argentato (Toscana). Poggio Argentato opens with a bright bouquet of green apple, kiwi, cut grass and lemon zest. You’ll also recognize green caper and olive notes on the finish. The wine shows good density, freshness and would pair with smoked salmon and cream cheese. Winebow. —M.L. Price: $20 abv: 12.5%

Batasiolo 2010 Bosc Dla Rei (Moscato d’Asti). Soft and delicately sweet, Moscato Bosc Dla Rei opens with a light, foamy appearance and plush layers of peach cream and lemon mousse. Fragrant, fresh and sweet, pair it with fruit salad. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $16 Bava 2011 Bass Tuba (Moscato d’Asti). Bass Tuba is a sweet sparkling dessert wine that opens with an off-gold color and ripe aromas of peach, honey, candied fruit and mango. It’s a bold, concentrated Moscato d’Asti with a thick, creamy mouthfeel, bright sweetness and piquant touch of white pepper. Wine Wave. —M.L. abv: 4.5% Price: $24

Massolino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Here’s a lovely Moscato d’Asti with a pristine and bright quality to both the bouquet and mouthfeel. Not as creamy and frothy as most, the wine drinks like a still sweet wine (the bubbles are light and delicate) with a zesty touch of lemon zest on the close. A perfect apéritif wine. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $19

Mauro Sebaste 2010 Moscato d’Asti. Mauro Sebaste has produced a creamy, elegant Moscato d’Asti with lovely notes of white flower and soapy foam. Sweet flavors of peach and honey are followed by a touch of zesty lemon. Tutto Vino. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $20

Michele Chiarlo 2011 Nivole (Moscato d’Asti). Sweet, fragrant and intense, this pretty Moscato d’Asti opens with musky tones of melon, stone fruit, acacia flower and honeysuckle. The wine is creamy, rich and soft with pretty tangerine mousse on the close. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $13/375 ml

Michele Chiarlo 2010 Nivole (Moscato d’Asti). This precious Moscato d’Asti opens with soft foam and sweet aromas of peach, honey, almond blossom and jasmine. Pair this delicious dessert wine with fruit ice cream or semifreddo. Kobrand. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $15/375 ml

Oscar Bosio 2011 La Bruciata (Moscato d’Asti). La Bruciata is a foamy, creamy and soft Moscato d’Asti with pretty aromas of honey, peach blossom and musky exotic flower. The wine is superrich and frothy in the mouth, thanks to the generous quality of the silky bubbles. Baroness Wines. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $14

Tenuta Olim Bauda 2011 Centive (Moscato d’Asti). Centive is a pleasant and lively Moscato d’Asti with fragrant tones of dried flowers, jasmine soap, lavender honey and sun-ripened peach. The smooth mouthfeel is capped by loads of frothy cream. Admiralty Beverage. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $16

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Bersano 2011 Monteolivo Moscato d’Asti. For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 5% Price: $11

Bersano 2011 San Michele (Moscato d’Asti). Loaded with honey, marzipan, peach and exotic fruit, this special expression of Moscato d’Asti delivers a thick, creamy feel in the mouth with foamy mousse and soapy intensity. Pair this with sugary almond cookies. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $12/500 ml

Castello del Poggio 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This foamy Moscato d’Asti opens with bright aromas of tangerine flower, dried ginger, acacia flower and honey. The softly bubbly wine shows sweetness followed by a crisp accent on the finish. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $16

Duchessa Lia 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This sweet sparkling wine shows a steady, creamy texture with tangerine mousse, wild flower, honey, peach blossom and soapy foam. The long sweet finish would match well with baked apricot pie. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L. Price: $18 abv: 5.5%

Tenimenti Ca’ Bianca 2011 Moscato d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti opens with full, generous tones of peach, honey, acacia blossom, jasmine and freshly peeled tangerine skin. The rich and foamy mouthfeel would pair with soft cheese on dry rye crackers. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $15

Villa Lanata 2011 Cardinale Lanata (Moscato d’Asti). The cardinal rules of Moscato d’Asti are frothy mousse, fragrant floral aromas and a simple mouthfeel. Cardinale Lanata follows them all and this bright dessert wine would pair with pastries or meringues. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $17

Arbiola 2010 Ferlingot (Moscato d’Asti). Fragrant and foamy, this soft and plush Moscato d’Asti opens with orange blossom, honeysuckle and peach cobbler aromas. It’s smooth and sweet, with creamy mousse on the finish. —M.L. Price: $NA abv: 12.5%

Bella Bollè 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Packaged in an electric blue bottle, Bella Bollè is a soft, foamy sweet sparkler with bright aromas of peach blossom, dried ginger, sage, white flower and musky soap. The quality of the bubbles is creamy and rich. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $9

Bersano NV Moscato (Asti). Here’s a cheerful, fresh and fragrant sparkling Asti with bright aromas of white flower, ginger, stone fruit and lemon soda. There’s a zesty touch of fresh spice or white pepper on the creamy finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 7% Price: $13

Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Here’s a forthy and fresh Moscato d’Asti with

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

fragrant aromas of honey, stone fruit and fragrant flower available at a competitive price. The wine is sweet and bright with a soapy touch of dried lavender on the close. Italian Wine Growers. Best Buy. —M.L. Price: $10 abv: 5.5%

Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio (Moscato d’Asti). Fresh, piquant and bright, this Moscato d’Asti opens with slightly green aromas of wild flower, cut grass, wild sage and dried hay. The wine is plush and creamy, with a long, sweet endnote that recalls honey, marzipan and peach. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $NA

Cinzano NV Moscato (Asti). This celebrated Italian brand continues its historic production of sweet sparkling wine from northern Italy. Made with Moscato Bianco grapes, this expression is fresh, with steely effervescence and a sweet, fruity note with hints of peach and honey. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Price: $13 abv: 7%

Duchessa Lia NV Moscato (Asti). Fresh, fragrant and floral, this sweet sparkling wine offers aromas of peach, honey, white flower, wild sage and dried hay. The wine is plush and creamy with a thick effervescent mousse. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L. abv: 7% Price: $15

finish, with a softly sweet endnote. Italian Wine Growers. —M.L. abv: 7.5% Price: $9

Demarie 2010 Moscato d’Asti. This bright Moscato d’Asti opens with a pristine appearance and a radiant pale gold color. The aromas are slightly closed and nutty, with white almond, stone fruit and yellow rose. There’s a touch of crushed white pepper at the very end. Uva Imports. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $20

Fratelli Martini 2011 Casa Sant’Orsola Moscato (Asti). Compared to Moscato d’Asti, Asti is a sparkling dessert wine with slightly more alcohol and more bite to its bubbly effervescence. This expression is pure and clean, with simple white flower and stone fruit aromas followed by a sweet, fresh finish. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L. abv: 7% Price: $14

Isolabella della Croce 2010 Valdiserre (Moscato d’Asti). There’s a fresh, almost spicy quality to the nose, with fresh fruit, acacia flower, honey and crushed white pepper. The wine is steady and smooth on the palate, with a creamy texture and a foamy mousse. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $17

Enrico Serafino 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Honey, candied nut, yellow flower, candied fruit and peach aromas open the bouquet of this bright, sweet sparkling wine. The effervescence is subdued, but the wine shows a rich, creamy mouthfeel regardless. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $14

Santero 2011 Santo (Moscato d’Asti). Santo is a creamy Moscato d’Asti with ripe fruit aromas of yellow rose, honey and apricot. The wine shows a thick, bold style ,with an off-gold color and plenty of sweetness on the sticky finish. Atlas Imports. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $10

OTHER PIEDMONT

Santero 2011 Villa Jolanda (Moscato d’Asti). Packaged in a handsome bottle, this bright Moscato d’Asti is musky and sweet (as tradition dictates) and opens with aromas of peach blossom, white almond skin and honey. Pair this wine with tangerine mousse or chopped fruit salad. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $14

Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Moscato d’Asti. There’s a sweet, sticky quality to this Moscato d’Asti that would match cream puddings or cooked fruit desserts. Fragrant aromas of yellow flower, honey, apricot and tangerine emerge on the bouquet. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $16

Cantina Vallebelbo 2011 San Maurizio Moscato (Asti). The bouquet reveals subtle notes of honey, white flower and peach blossom. This sweet sparkler also shows a milky or creamy note on the

Mondoro NV Moscato (Asti). Frothy cream and a thick white mousse cap this bright, sparkling Asti as the wine is poured in the glass. Floral and fruity aromas of jasmine and peach appear on the bouquet and the mouthfeel is silky and easy. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 7.5% Price: $15 Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Tosti’s sparkling Asti offers a saccharine-sweet quality and aromas of lemon soda, candied fruit and honey. Perfect for dried biscuits or fresh fruit, the wine is soft, round and sticky on the close. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 7.5% Price: $14

Borgo Isolabella 2005 Isolabella della Croce Solìo Moscato (Loazzolo). From the Loazzolo subzone of Piedmont, this beautiful dessert wine presents generous aromas of fresh flower, apricot, honey, baked pear and Golden Delicious apple. The mouthfeel is rich, long and smooth. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $40/375 ml

Moscadoro 2010 Moscato (Piedmont). This easy sparkling Moscato from northern Italy opens with aromas of yellow rose, peach, honey and almond skin. The wine is sweet, but not exaggeratedly so, and offers a light, delicate effervescence. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 5.5% Price: $12/375 ml

Tosti NV Rosato Moscato (Piedmont). Moscato Rosato is a sweet sparkling rosé with a bright raspberry color and tangy layers of forest fruit

and lemon soda. There’s a sharp, almost pungent aspect to the effervescence that removes the heaviness or cloying quality of the wine’s natural sugar content. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. Price: $14 abv: 6.5%

sweet and foamy with a touch of citrus-like acidity on the close. San Antonio Winery. —M.L. abv: 6% Price: $15

as well as green herbs, spice and yeast. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Price: $25 abv: 11.5%

SOUTHERN ITALY

NORTHEAST ITALY

Franz Haas 2009 Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige). Moscato Rosa is a crimson-colored sweet wine with dark ruby highlights that offers simple but fresh aromas of wild raspberries and blueberries. The wine’s bouquet is fragrant, sweet-smelling and intense. Drink it as an apéritif or with fruit-based desserts. Winebow. —M.L. Price: $50/375 ml abv: 12%

Nals Margreid 2010 Moscato Giallo (Alto Adige). Here’s a dry expression of Moscato Giallo grapes from cool-climate northern Italy (where fresh floral aromas tend to be more intense) that opens with a bouquet of honey, acacia flower and stone fruit. The wine is fresh and clean, with a touch of bitter almond on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L. Price: $20 abv: 12.5%

Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Praepositus Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige). Made using Moscato Rosa, this is a unique dessert wine that opens with a deep ruby color and bright aromas of wild berry and white chocolate. Smooth, sweet and thick, it also shows a touch of tannic firmness on the close. Vintage Epicure. —M.L. Price: $43/375 ml abv: 13%

Mochetto 2011 Pink Moscato (Delle Venezie). This is a sweet, pink sparkling wine (made mostly with Moscato grapes) from northern Italy that would pair well with raspberry tarts or strawberry pudding. The wine offers an easy bouquet of stone fruit and pink rose. It finishes with bright sweetness and foamy cream. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Price: $17 abv: 5%

Vino dei Fratelli 2011 Mochetto Pink Moscato (Delle Venezie). This pale pink sparkling wine offers easy aromas of sweet raspberry and pink grapefruit. It’s a rosé sparkler made from Moscato grapes that will pair well with fruit ice cream or panna cotta with fresh forest berries. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. Price: $17 abv: 5%

Caposaldo 2011 Moscato (Pavia). Here’s an easy, no-fuss Moscato with a bright, crystalline appearance and fresh aromas of spring flower, peach and honey baked almond. The wine presents a full, creamy finish with mild foaming and effervescence. Kobrand. —M.L. Price: $15 abv: 7%

Poderi Arancio NV Stella Rosa Il Conte Orange Moscato Fior d’Arancio (Colli Euganei). This sweet sparkling wine opens with a pungent tone of freshly squeezed tangerine skin, with citrus and more grapefruit at the back. The wine is very

Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Femme Fatale Blumarine Moscato (Sicilia). Made with late-harvest grapes, this strange dessert wine shares the sweet, syrupy characteristics of a passito and the resiny, caramel-like intensity of Marsala. The wine opens with a dark amber color, aromas of butterscotch and candied chestnut, followed by a sweet, sticky mouthfeel. —M.L. abv: 16% Price: $NA

Candoni NV Moscato d’Italia (Puglia). The sweet sparkling Moscato style is from northern Italy, the bottle’s Etruscan theme is from central Italy and the fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy. It’s a wine of mixed messages, but Candoni’s marketable Moscato d’Italia shows a simple sweet mouthfeel and bright aromas of jasmine and wild flower. Arel Group Wine and Spirits Inc. —M.L. abv: 6.5% Price: $14

Luca Bosio 2011 Moscato (Puglia). Foamy, creamy and rich, this sweet sparkler opens with easy aromas of tangerine skin, jasmine and dried ginger. Fruit is sourced in Puglia, southern Italy and there is in fact a warm, ripe quality to the intense sweetness. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. abv: 4.5% Price: $15

Casal Nova 2011 Moscato (Puglia). From the deep south of Italy, this fragrant Moscato opens with generous aromas of orange, apricot, yellow rose and honey. This sparkling dessert wine is sweet, heavy and ripe in the mouth. Quintessential Wines. —M.L. abv: 4.5% Price: $14

ALSACE WHITE WINES

Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Gewürztraminer (Alsace). An intense wine, its spice finely integrated with a more fruity character. It has the classic Gewürztraminer lychee flavor but this is balanced with acidity, ripe baked apple and mineral structure. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). Spice and cream combine in a rounded, soft, very ripe wine. It has intense flavors of lychee and white peach with a refreshing amount of acidity. The wine is dry, but rich from the ginger and with a peppery final bite. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

Hugel 2006 Riesling (Alsace). Approaching maturity, here is a Riesling that still has a refreshing citric character, intensely tangy perfumed fruit

Pierre Sparr 2010 Réserve Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Attractively balanced wine, with refreshing acidity cutting through the apple and pear flavors. It has some tangy minerality as well as a really fresh but rich aftertaste. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Price: $14 abv: 12%

Pierre Sparr 2010 Riesling (Alsace). Tight grapefruit flavors, very perfumed and totally dry and crisp, this is a pure-fruited wine, packed with acidity, flavors of white currants and a final zesty minerality. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Price: $14 abv: 12%

Trimbach 2008 Riesling (Alsace). Beautifully perfumed wine, its white fruits transformed into a mature, almond and herbal wine, tight and dry while showing delicious, appetite-enhancing freshness. Ready to drink now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. Price: $25 abv: 12.5%

Pierre Sparr 2010 Gewürztraminer (Alsace). Perfumed wine, all its flavors directed towards a spice-driven lychee character. Rosehip and peppered pineapple are layered with soft, ripe texture. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Price: $18 abv: 13%

Domaine Bott-Geyl 2007 Métiss Pinot Blanc (Alsace). A rich yellow fruit- and pepper-dominated wine. It is rounded, ripe and soft, with a maturity that gives flavors of almonds, nutmeg and light acidity. Vanguard Wines. —R.V. Price: $16 abv: 12.5%

Hugel 2010 Gentil Hugel (Alsace). A dry blended wine, with attractive rich white fruits, pears and a citrus streak. The wine has a smooth texture, perfumed by lychee and with bright acidity to finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Price: $15 abv: 12.5%

Pierre Sparr 2010 Pinot Gris (Alsace). With a light touch of spice and some richness, this is a dry style of Pinot Gris. It has a kiwi fruit flavor along with white fruits, and finishes with pepper. Screwcap. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. Price: $18 abv: 13.5%

BURGUNDY WHITE WINES

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet. With its concentrated yellow fruits, this is already a powerful wine. It is packed with acidity, toast, peach flavors and minerality, starting out as a gorgeously rich wine from a ripe vintage. Of course, it will age over many years; open in 10 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Price: $410 abv: 13.5% WineMag.com | 29

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Folatières Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A wine that brings out intense minerality, a tight citric tang and a beautiful structure. With its lime and grapefruit acidity laid over ripe yellow fruits shot through with toast, this is a wine that should age many years, mellowing into an open, generous richness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $215

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Combettes Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). While the aromas of this young wine reveal considerable toast, on the palate the wine brings forward the ripe apricot and mango flavors to go with that wood. As it matures, these elements will coalesce with the taut, tense mineral texture into an superb, ageworthy terroir-driven wine. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $225

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Les Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This rich wine balances ripe yellow fruits with intense citrus acidity in a harmonious whole. Its structure is laden with minerality, toast and a smooth, delicious creamy aftertaste. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. Price: $260 abv: 13.5%

acter that offers a bright acidity. It has density and richness, fruity and forward. Vanguard Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Olivier Leflaive 2009 Aligoté du Domaine (Bourgogne Aligoté). From one of the Leflaive family vineyards close to Puligny-Montrachet, this is as rich as Aligoté can get. Even so, the texture is crisp, with fresh kiwi and herbs, finishing with intense acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $17

Louis Jadot 2009 Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Soft, ripe fruit flavors of apple, peach and melon crispened with acidity. The wine is smooth and rounded, with a fine, fresh aftertaste. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

Vignerons de Buxy 2008 Buissonnier Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Light, creamed apple fruits with a bright line of fresh acidity. The wine is exuberant in its citrus character, just broadened by an underlay of green apples. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. Price: $15 abv: 12.5%

RED WINES

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Sous le Dos d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). Rich and rounded, packed with yellow fruits and pineapple flavors, this is a warm, opulent wine, combining toast and fruit. True, there is some minerality, but this Meursault revels in its ripe fruit and generosity. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $155

Louis Jadot 2009 Corton-Pougets. A gorgeously rich wine, powered by tannins but just as importantly by ripe berry fruit and crisp acidity. Smoky wood flavors blend with juicy fruit, powerful dark tannins and an intensely fresh finish. Age for seven years or more. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $110

Domaine Leflaive 2007 Sous le Dos d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault). While the wine does have richness, it’s the mineral and citrus side that is coming through at this stage. The balance with the wood aging is so right that you feel the toast rather than tasting it. As it matures, the wine will deepen in intensity and power, certainly over the next 5–10 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Louis Jadot 2009 Clos de la Barre Premier Cru (Volnay). The walled Clos de la Barre is a Jadot monopoly. This 2009 has great depth of flavor, hinting at the Volnay richness while remaining structured. That makes it a concentrated wine, red and black fruits mingling with wood and intense acidity. For long-term aging over six years and more. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $68

Domaine Leflaive 2009 Clavoillon Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). A deliciously fruity wine, its bright apricot, pineapple and peach flavors open and generous. Of course, there is a more serious core of structure, lemon zest and dryness to promise aging. At the end, though, fruit and a light toastiness give immediate pleasure. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $145

Louis Jadot 2009 Les Petits Monts Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Just up the slope from the grand cru of La Romanée, Les Petits Monts has produced a wine that combines structure with a more opulent character. That gives rich damson and red plum fruits along with exhilarating acidity and a firm core of tannin. The wine needs aging for 5–6 years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $115

Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Kimmeridgien (Bourgogne). Just an edge of butter gives this wine roundness and extra richness. Along with this character comes ripe peach fruit, lifted with acidity. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Vanguard Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Jean-Marc Brocard 2010 Domaine Sainte Claire (Saint Bris). With its distinctive herbaceous edge, the wine has a grapefruit-and-citrus char-

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Louis Jadot 2009 Petite Chapelle Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). At this stage, the wine is all dark structure and very firm. It will need time to develop its full potential as an intensely rich wine. Concentrated and firm, it is powered by tannins as well as sweet red fruits. So age for five years at least. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $85

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A beautifully ripe wine, with the new wood just a hint in the background. The wine has rich red plums and black cherries, laced with the most intense acidity. It is a dense, firmly concentrated wine with a long ahead. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $90

Louis Jadot 2009 Beaune Bressandes Premier Cru (Beaune). Pure strawberry and red cherry fruits with a twist of acidity make this a wine that is already delicious. Just under the surface is a firm wood-and-tannin character and a dense, if juicy, structure. Age for 4–5 years. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $44

Pierre André 2007 Corton les Renardes Grand Cru (Corton). Juicy red fruits are the veneer on a wine that is structured and complex, full of tight tannins, intense acidity and the promise of a longterm future. The dry center of the wine holds the exuberant fruit flavors together, while the aftertaste is all freshness. William Harrison Imports. —R.V. Price: $140 abv: 13.5%

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). There is a lot of power in this wine. It has great weight and richness and an intense structure. Hanging from the frame of the wine are dark plum fruits, layers of wood, sweet spice, complex acidity and dry tannins. Age for 6–7 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $100

Louis Jadot 2009 Vosne-Romanée. Very structured, as befits a Vosne-Romanée, even a village wine. The black cherry fruit and layered acidity are combined with a firm and dry tannic core. There is power here, and some aging potential. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $56

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos de l’Eco Premier Cru (Beaune). A wine that is closed up at this stage. But beneath the surface there is a wine that will revel in delicious red fruits with barnyard flavors, ripe fruits and sweet tannins. As it opens, it reveals richness and generosity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Price: $70 abv: 13.5%

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Les Rugiens Premier Cru (Pommard). Sweet new wood goes with rich plum skins in a wine that has a firm structure. The richness of the wine revolves around sweet cherries and juicy acidity. With the wood still dominant, it needs at least five years to settle down. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $115

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Pommard. For full review see page 7. abv: 13% Price: $50

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Lulune (Beaune). The purity of fruit is the most striking aspect of this wine. While it is relatively light in

texture, it revels in its fresh red-fruited character that gives an impressive intensity. With balanced touches of tannin and acidity, the wine should age well. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $65

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de Beaune. One of the classic wines from Drouhin, this concentrated and ripe wine has rich tannins, certainly laced with wood. Plum and red-fruit flavors are a delicious presence to go with the firm, solid structure. Age for 3–4 years. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côte de BeauneVillages. For full review see page 8. abv: 13% Price: $24

Domaine Faiveley 2009 Clos des Myglands Premier Cru (Mercurey). Expect ripe and open fruit from this Faiveley owned vineyard in Mercurey. The wine tastes soft, the tannins well integrated into the ripe cherry and berry fruits. It could age, but it is ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

Domaine Moillard 2009 Rugiens Premier Cru (Pommard). While it does have the structure of a Pommard, this is also a ripe, rounded wine. Its sweet red fruits surround the firm tannins offering richness. A wine that will offer sold pleasure in 3–4 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $120

Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 GevreyChambertin. A beautifully perfumed wine that shows some of the structure of a Gevrey but combines this with dark rich fruits and sweet tannins. There is a smoky flavor that balances the ripe red fruits and final acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $55

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Chorey-lesBeaune. For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $25

Moillard 2009 Les Saint-Georges Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). A firm, darkly structured wine. It has a hard edge of smoky wood tannins that dominate the black fruits, so it needs 2–3 years to balance out. It’s always likely to be a firm, dense wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $120

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2009 Beaumont (Mâcon-Cruzille). A dense wine, its tannins firmly in place. It shows ripe red berry fruits, firm structure and rich, juicy fruit. Powered by its tannins, it will remain a firm wine for 2–3 years. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Santenay. Rounded and soft, with gentle tannins. Packed with black cherry fruits, a herbal edge and sweetness, this is al-

ready an approachable wine, fruity and generous. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

Maurice Ecard 2009 Les Serpentières Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Soft and ripe, this is a broad wine. Its tannins are enveloped by the rich plum and damson fruit flavors. It combines the richness of the vintage with the softness of a Savigny in an already delicious whole. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $48

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Sous le Mont (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). In the 2009 vintage, the wines of the Hautes-Côtes have an extra richness and warmth. This wine has flavors of cherries, raspberries that give fine acidity, as well as fruitiness. The tannins are already well integrated, finishing a wine that is deliciously juicy. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $45

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2010 Beaumont (Mâcon-Cruzille). A young tannic wine with jammy, fresh red-cherry fruits and red plum skins. The acidity is palpable, shooting through the structure, giving the wine a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Joseph Drouhin 2009 Côtes de Nuits-Villages. A soft, richly fruity cherry-flavored wine. Its tannins are so round they melt into the fruit. Acidity gives a deliciously fresh edge to this smooth and almostready-to-drink wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

Domaine Guillot-Broux 2003 Beaumont (Mâcon-Cruzille). There aren’t many 2003 wines available today, and this raisin and red fruit flavored wine shows plenty of attractive ripe flavors. Dried fruits dominate, giving the wine a Port-like richness, the tannins now comfortably integrated in the texture. Jenny and François Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Domaine Moillard 2009 Côte de Nuits-Villages. A fresh wine with red cherry fruits giving a bright character, the tannins soft and with attractive acidity. It is lightly textured and should be ready to drink in 1–2 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

Garnier et Fils 2009 Epineuil Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). On the tannic side, this is a structured although sweetly ripe wine. Red berry fruits are dominant, along with acidity. Coffee and dry tannins underneath. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

Maurice Ecard 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A light and cherry-fresh Pinot Noir that has soft tannins, some herbal fruit and a juicy aftertaste. It shows intense acidity as well as final red berry fruits. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

Vignerons de Buxy 2009 Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). A soft, raspberry filled wine with a bitter cherry and dry tannic counter-balance. The wine is light and fruity, although still with a firm structure. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

SPAIN WHITE WINES

Pazo de Barrantes 2010 Pazo Barrantes Albariño (Rías Baixas). Pretty to sniff, with aromas of lemon, fresh white fruits and minerals. Feels crisp, chiseled and racy, with blazing acidity propelling green apple, lime, green melon and saline flavors. Long on the finish. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

Concertum 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Saline and oceanic on the bouquet, but largely it’s neutral-smelling. Feels tight and fresh, but tastes a bit stalky and bitter, with baked apple and a strong taste of straw. Finishes with white pepper notes and that same stalky flavor from before. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

Villacezan 2010 Elverite Blanco Albarín (Tierra de León). Citrusy on the nose, with tangerine and passion fruit aromas, with white grapefruit and less-defined citrus flavors. Grapefruit persists on the racy, tangy finish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

ROSÉS

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot 2009 Terres Burgondes Pinot Noir (Vin de Pays de Sainte-Marie la Blanche). A vin de pays from the hinterland of Burgundy. It is light and layered with intense red cherry acidity to give a fresh wine that can be drunk now. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

Domaine Thierry Mortet 2009 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). An earthy wine with rich, red fruits along with a barnyard flavor. The wine is ripe and jammy, the juicy acidity coming through at the end. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

Zarate 2008 El Palomar Albariño (Rías Baixas). Waxy and oily on the nose, then narrow as a thin line on the palate. Feels linear and sharp, with lemony flavors that come with a green apple accent. Tastes aged and maderized on the finish, despite displaying lemony acidity and tartness. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

Carlos Serres 2010 Serres TempranilloGarnacha Rosé (Rioja). Red in color, with fresh aromas of nectarine, orange peel and red currant. WineMag.com | 31

For a 2010 this is still fresh and sturdy, with cleansing acidity and focused flavors of citrus and red berry fruit. Eminently drinkable, with a long finish for basic rosé. Drink immediately. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Opera Prima Sweet Pink Rosé (La Mancha). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 10.5% Price: $8

Marqués de Riscal 2010 Rosé (Rioja). Neutral on the nose, with peachy sweetness and softness that suggests it’s beginning to fade. Feels honest but light, with pithy, neutral melon and red apple flavors. Dry but sort of bland; still upright. Drink right away. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rosado Tempranillo (Rioja). Labors from the start via soft, punchless aromas of generic red fruit. Feels a little flabby, with dry, basic flavors of red apple and cantaloupe. Turns pithy and slightly bitter on the finish. Drink now. Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S. Price: $10 abv: 14%

Tapeña 2010 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Neutral, dusty and a bit damp-smelling, with a leanness to the palate feel as well as flavors of semitart melon and peach. Decent but fails to excite. Drink now. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

PRIORAT

Gratallops 2006 Partida Bellvisos (Priorat). Raspberry, cranberry, schist and wild brush aromas are about as correct for Priorat as you’ll find. In the mouth, this wine from Sara Pérez and René Barbier Jr. is lively, racy and pure, with red berry, vanilla, coconut and tobacco flavors. Finishes long and elegant. Drink through 2016; 166 cases made. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $130

Marco Abella 2006 Clos Abella (Priorat). Hard and crusty on first impression, with smoky, leathery, meaty aromas along with hints of wild herbs and dark berry fruit. Feels racy and ultraslick, with cherry, plum and mineral flavors. Hits all the right notes while not pushing any buttons too hard or too often; long on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

Scala Dei 2006 Cartoixa (Priorat). This perennially consistent Priorato deals graphite, coconut, leather, forest and oaky, chocolaty berry aromas in front of a round, mouthfilling palate. Tastes primarily of plum, cherry and currant, with a snappy finish defined by red fruit flavors and length. Perfectly good and ready; can hold through 2014. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $52

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Cellers Unió 2006 Roureda Llicorella Gran Selecció Vitis 60 (Priorat). Aromas of pencil shavings, marzipan and jammy berry are sweet and slightly candied. Flavors of Bing cherry, raisin, licorice and citrus peel are forward and tight, while the finish is long and flavorful, with some acidic tang. Lively despite a mild raisiny quality. Drink now through 2013. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Feels juicy, well-cut and tighter than in years past, with blackberry, tea, spice and cured meat flavors. Oaky on the back side, but complex and showing potential. Hold through 2013, then drink. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $73

RIBERA DEL DUERO

Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Sanchomartin (Ribera del Duero). Richer and more grapey than the Valdorramiro 2008, but also friendlier, deeper and more complete. Aromas of blackberry, vanilla and sweet spices lead to a structured, weighty palate full of spicy, oak-driven berry and plum flavors. Clove notes and length define the finish. Drink from 2014–2019 Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. Price: $183 abv: 14.5%

Bodegas La Horra 2009 Corimbo I (Ribera del Duero). Dark as night, with charcoal, campfire, sweet berry and jammy notes to the alluring bouquet. Lively on the palate, with tangy acidity propelling black fruit, sweet oak, licorice and spice flavors. Solid, well built and generally smooth. Excellent Ribera from a very good year. Drink through 2019. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $63

Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus de Valderramiro (Ribera del Duero). Serious wine for serious Ribera lovers, even if it’s from a generally weak vintage. Smells of bacon grease, graphite and dark berry fruits. Feels tight and youthfully tannic, with hickory, smoked meat, clove, toast and blackberry flavors. Clove and spice rest heavily on the woody finish; needs time to evolve and absorb its oak treatment. Best from 2013–2018. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $212

Martín Berdugo 2008 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). After it oozes rubber and bacon on the nose, berry fruit and mild medicinal aromas settle in. Feels full, tight and structured, with meat, black cherry and wild berry flavors. Finishes warm, chocolaty and lightly roasted. Well-made, and impressive for the price. Puerto Viejo Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

Convento Oreja 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Full, lusty and slightly floral smelling, with notes of leather, crusty berry and hoisin sauce. Feels thick, with body and weight along with flavors of berry, cookie dough and floral hints. Long, meaty and slightly herbal on the finish, with just enough complexity to nudge it ahead. Drink now through 2015. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

Emilio Moro 2008 Malleolus (Ribera del Duero). Good berry aromas form a nice opening, and there are solid spice and herbal notes to boot.

Finca La Mata 2009 Ribera del Duero. For full review see page 7. abv: 14% Price: $22

Prado Rey 2009 Elite Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). Complex, integrated and solid up front, with berry aromas, vanilla notes and toasty oak. Feels full, thick, staunch and balanced, with deep berry and cherry flavors leading to a toasty, peppery finish with leftover berry flavors. Well formed and well oaked, with excellent fruit quality. Drink now through 2014. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

Alonso del Yerro 2008 María (Ribera del Duero). A meaty, bulky, earthy style of Ribera with smoky, charred, new-oak aromas setting up a reduced-seeming palate with roasted, sweet flavors of black fruits and cured meats. Feels rich, sticky and candied on the finish. Needs a couple of years to knit together; may improve with bottle age. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $102

Viña Vilano 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Blackberry aromas blend with opengrained oak to create a slightly charred bouquet. A bit acidic and edgy in feel, with a mix of herb, plum and berry flavors. Tight, juicy and a touch short on the finish, with dry, peppery spice notes. Drink now through 2014. European Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Dominio de Atauta 2009 Parada de Atauta (Ribera del Duero). Concentrated aromas of berry fruits, spice and black currant jelly suggest that the wine is full and rich. In the mouth, severe tannins create a grinding sensation, while flavors of toast, blackberry, cassis and brown sugar lead to a heavy, burnt tasting finish that’s blocky in feel. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

RIOJA

Finca Valpiedra 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Pure, condensed and dark on the nose, with blasting aromas of blackberry, crusty spice and char, this is packed like an overstuffed suitcase, with flavors of jammy black fruit, fine herbs and spice. Shows more big fruit on the finish and plenty of lasting berry flavor. Drink now through 2014. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

Señorio de Uñuela 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Excellent modern Rioja at a fair price. Smells solid, with crusty minerality and toasty oak to go with black fruit aromas. Feels flush and voluminous, with jammy blackberry, baked fig and coffee flavors. Toasty, meaty and dark on the finish. Drink now through 2014.

Devo Enterprises Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

value-priced Graciano. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde de Valdemar Reserva (Rioja). Opens with grainy, whispy aromas of reedy raspberry and smoky blackberry. Feels tannic and aggressive, so it punches ahead with lively, firm flavors of raspberry, plum and strawberry. Finishes oaky, with vanilla and dill notes. Bold Rioja to drink now. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Señorio de Uñuela 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Chunky aromas of sweet berry and beets announce a ripe style of Rioja. The mouthfeel is medium to full and healthy, with focused flavors of berry, oak and peppery spice. Long and a little fiery on the finish. Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

Viña Hermosa 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy and subtle on the nose, with mellow leafy notes, spice and fresh red-fruit aromas. Feels lively and layered, with integrated flavors of berry fruit, oak and mocha. Creamy and long on the finish, with just enough acidity to maintain length and feel. HGC Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Bodegas Zugober 2008 Belezos Crianza (Rioja). Lightly spiced up front, with dry wood aromas, light cherry and floral hints. Feels juicy and tight, with basic red-plum flavors that transition quickly to spice and acidic crispness on a short finish. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

Bodegas Breton 2008 Loriñon Crianza (Rioja). Floral and lightly earthy on the nose, with a touch of latex. Feels fresh and pure, with fine acidity pressing bright flavors of red cherry and raspberry. Gets toastier and darker on the finish, ending with spice and clarity. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

Carlos Serres 2008 Old Vines Tempranillo (Rioja). Rooty and mildly sweet on the nose, then tight and zesty in the mouth, with crisp red-fruit flavors and citrusy snap. Feels entirely lean and crisp, even a bit tangy. But sometimes fresh, basic Rioja has its place. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

Raiza 2010 Altos de Raiza (Rioja). Fresh raspberry and plum aromas offer an inviting opening that’s simple, easy and clean. That’s pretty much the wine in a nutshell: it’s bright and fresh, with lightly spiced red-berry and plum flavors. Focused and uncomplicated. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

Rioja Vega 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Charred and burnt-smelling, and those aromas are overpowering although not necessarily bad. Feels big and tannic, with bite to go with dark flavors of bitter coffee, roasted black plum and wild berry. The charred, burnt character that controls the bouquet returns with a fury on the finish. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

Carlos Serres 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Light, minerally and showing red fruit and cocoa notes on the bouquet. Offers depth and density in support of sweet, malty, chocolaty berry flavors. Creamy, oaky and chocolaty on the finish. Uncomplicated and easy to like. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

Viña Eguía 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Coconut, vanilla and dill aromas sit on top of solid berry scents to form a classic Rioja bouquet. Feels fresh and agile, with acidity that allows the wine to dance around on the palate. Tastes of red plum, raspberry, mint and spice. Seems oaky on the finish, but lively. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Marqués de Cáceres 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Standard cherry and plum aromas are fresh, clean and unadulterated by heavy oak, leather or earth notes. Feels clean and dry, with nice but standard redberry and plum flavors. Has good flow and feel, with a light dusting of spice on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

Pujanza 2007 Rioja. Dark and bold, with leafy, slightly mulchy aromas that settle on earthy and mossy. Feels round and full, with weight, along with flavors of cola, blackberry and plum. Toasty, dark and tasting like coffee on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

Rio Madre 2010 Graciano (Rioja). Dark in color, with plum, berry and medicinal aromas. Round, full and in good shape, with dark plum, blackberry and a lot of oak for a $10 wine. Finishes creamy and big, with a spicy aftertaste. Plump and solid for

Castillo Labastida 2008 Madurado (Rioja). Gaseous smelling at first, then the nose transitions to rubbery plum and blackberry. Feels zesty and spunky, with tangy raspberry, pie cherry and tomato flavors. Feels racy and juicy, with a tomato-like flavor on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

Criadores de Rioja 2008 Castillo de Clavijo Crianza (Rioja). Smells a bit cheesy and leathery, with mint and slightly chemical berry aromas. Chewy in feel, with buttery flavors of red berry and chocolate. Tastes oaky, minty and forced, but overall it’s not a bad wine given the price and subpar vintage. Saranty Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Marques de Tomares 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Baked, saucy aromas suggest the wine’s overall character. It’s ripe and stewy, with a grippy palate and a flavor profile full of tomato, herbs and red plum. Tastes herbal and roasted on the finish; aggressive, savory Rioja. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $40

Rivarey 2008 Tempranillo (Rioja). Dusty, dry and lightly spiced aromas frame stalky red fruit scents. Feels chunky and clampy, with rooty berry sweetness and rubbery bitterness on the back palate and finish. Good, but tough around the edges. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

Cortijo 2010 Cortijo III Tempranillo-Garnacha (Rioja). Smells flat and sweet, with a plastic-like essence. Zesty in feel but angular, with tangy acids and candied red-fruit flavors along with a pinch of dry spice. Tastes oaky on the finish. Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha. Ole Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Viña Ijalba 2007 Graciano (Rioja). Rooty aromas come with a caustic side, something akin to Pine Sol or ammonia. Feels narrow and restricted, with limited berry flavors, juniper and other weird elements. An intense wine, but not in the right way. Baron Francois Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

Gran Familia 2008 Rioja. Sweet oak and mint aromas vie with berry fruit on the bouquet. Feels chunky, round and full, with sweet plum, ripe berry, lactic and mint notes. Falls off on the finish, which is sweet but simple. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

SHERRY

Viña Palaciega 2006 Reserva (Rioja). Starts with aromas of black cherry and kirsch, but turns stalky and stemmy fairly quickly. Feels crisp and a bit hard for a reserva, with herbal, zesty flavors of roasted red berry. Falls off on the finish, but maintains good quality. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

Bodegas Martinez Corta 2010 Cepas Antiguas (Rioja). Prickly smelling, with pointed red-fruit aromas. Feels snappy and high in acid, with quick, zippy flavors of tangy red plum and red currant. Not too much flavor or feel on the quick, crisp finish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Gonzalez Byass NV Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo Sherry. A unique and individual style of Sherry, even among palo cortados. It’s dark amber in color, with a pungent mix of aromas that include molasses, raw brown sugar, chocolate and campfire. Feels fresh on the tongue, with coffee, dark chocolate and core peach and citrus flavors. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 20% Price: $49/375 ml

Hidalgo NV Marqués de Rodil Palo Cortado Sherry. Light in color, with pecan pie aromas. There’s nothing heavy or blowsy about this refined palo cortado; it’s tight in the mouth, with narrowing acidity and tangy, oily flavors of citrus, almond and WineMag.com | 33

rancio. Long as they come on the finish, with zero excess weight. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $42

but feels and tastes astringent for such an expensive bottling. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $100/500 ml

Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Palo Cortado Viejísimo Sherry. Nutty as they come, with a dose of honey on the bouquet. Tastes extremely nice and powerful, with cleansing acids and complex flavors of salted peanuts, almond, baked peaches and toffee. Layered in terms of feel and delivery, with a nutty, crisp finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $125/500 ml

Alvear NV Amontillado Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Sweet toffee, butter pecan and apricot aromas are the lead-in. This wine has a light body, decent acidity and mild flavors of burnt banana, spice and almond paste. Nutty yet basic on the finish, with a hint of mushroom. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $15

Alvear NV Solera Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Toasty and sweet on the nose, however it’s not very complex. Feels juicy and refined, with raisin, fig and date flavors. Long on the finish and chocolaty tasting, with raisin and a lightness of being. Sweet within the style, but not unctuous or candied. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $29/500 ml

OTHER OLD WORLD

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Amontillado Sherry. For affordable amontillado, this is downright excellent. Smells nutty and oily, maybe a touch sharp, but well within normal parameters. Feels fresh, round and comfortable, with lots of core fruit flavor, nuttiness, sweet toffee and caramel. Finishes with toasted pecan flavors and peanut butter notes. Semidry in style. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso Sherry. For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 18% Price: $15

Hidalgo NV Villapanés Oloroso Seco Sherry. True as dry oloroso comes, with nutty aromas combined with caramel richness. Feels raring to go, with pumped-up acidity that boosts otherwise normal flavors of dried white fruits, mixed nuts and brine. Tight, long and driving on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $42

Alvear NV Cream Pedro Ximénez (Montilla-Moriles). Quiet on the nose, but by no means does it smell poor. Feels chunky, with raisin, prune, brown sugar and baked fruit flavors. Flabby but flavorful late, with a finish that tastes like caramel and chocolate powder. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

CROATIA

Saints Hills 2009 Dinga Plavac Mali (Peljesac). There’s so much nuance and complexity in this rustic yet fascinating Croatian wine, that it takes a while to break down its components. Initial scents of dried leaves and mulch blow off to reveal an array of delicate floral and fruit aromas, accented by rich chocolate and vanilla notes. Big in both alcohol and structure, its massively tannic, but smoothes out with aeration. Decant to drink now, but could easily evolve for 5–10 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 15.9% Price: $65

HUNGARY

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sherry. Sweet smelling, but welcoming and true to the cream style. Feels creamy and soft by Sherry standards, with prune, raisin, caramel, toffee and chocolate flavors. Turns a touch bitter on the finish, with a final dose of raisin, honey and toffee. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $15

Royal Tokaji 2003 Essencia (Tokaji). Surprisingly subtle, yet maddeningly complex, this is a rare treat to unravel slowly, sip by sip. Sweet and honeyed on the nose with scents of freesia, orange peel and stone fruit, but accented with just a hint of sundried hay. The palate is deeply concentrated with undulating waves of honey, beeswax and fruit, but balanced with striking tangerine acidity. Remarkably long on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. abv: 2.2% Price: $764/375 ml

Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Oloroso Viejísimo Sherry. A fiery, demanding, extremely power-packed Sherry, with toffee, orange zest, pecan pie and apricot aromas. Feels tight and high in acidity, with dry, salty flavors of walnut oil and pecans. Layered and drying on the finish, with power to spare. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $75/500 ml

Pedro Romero NV Prestige 50 Amontillado Viejísimo Sherry. A nutty and acidic wine, with aromas of pressed walnuts and toffee. Feels tight, sharp and narrow on the tongue, with blazing acidity and dry, limited, salty flavors that fold in toffee and sour fruit notes. Exceedingly salty on the finish; smells great

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011

Royal Tokaji 2007 Red Label Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). For full review see page 6. abv: 11.5% Price: $43/500 ml

Royal Tokaji 2009 Mád Cuvée Late Harvest (Tokaji). For full review see page 7. Editor’s Choice. abv: 9.5% Price: $20/375 ml

MOLDOVA

Exclusiv NV Rose Spumos Moscato (Moldova). Grapy and floral with loads of rose petal notes, this Moscato is perfumey on the nose and palate. Exuberantly frothy and mouth-filling, the palate is

fleshy with sweet ripe grapes, with just a hint of stems and leaves on the finish. Serge Import LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $10

ROMANIAN WHITES

Cramele Halewood 2010 Theia Limited Edition Chardonnay (Sebes). Pristine on the nose and palate, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is a prime example of how thoroughly modern Romanian winemaking can be. Juicy and floral with pretty hints of apple blossoms, it’s creamy and rich in texture, yet impeccably refreshing on the finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20

Cramele Recas 2010 Heavenly Retreat Semi-sweet Riesling (Recas). White floral aromas are pure and fresh in this apple-inflected Romanian Riesling. Soft on the palate, with restrained acidity and a delicate, almost lacy structure, it finishes with a hint of powdered sugar sweetness. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. Price: $9 abv: 12%

Cramele Halewood 2009 Single Vineyard Selection Scurta Vineyard Viognier-Tamaioasa Romaneasca (Dealurile Munteniei). Exuberantly fragrant of ripe, tropical fruit and florals, this Romanian white blend veers towards confected, but it’s pleasantly brisk and apple-y on the palate. A good apéritif for casual, weekday enjoyment. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chardonnay (Dealu Mare). Darkly toasted oak lends a veil of smoke and char to apple and lemon flavors in this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay. There are hints of stems and leaves on the midpalate, but overall, it’s a well-composed wine with balanced acidity and alcohol. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $10

Serve 2010 Terra Romana Sauvignon Blanc-Feteasca Alba (Dealu Mare). Appley on the nose and palate, with just a hint of dust and green leaves, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Feteasca Alba is refreshing, with striking acidity. Dry and medium bodied in style. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. Price: $9 abv: NA

ROMANIAN REDS

Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Feteasca Neagra (Dealu Mare). While sweet on the nose with aromas of blueberry preserves and fruitcake, the palate on this dry Romanian red is refreshingly restrained, with a fresh herbal tone that accents its ample fruit flavors. A fascinating study of the Feteasca Neagra grape, there’s a surprising amount of elegance that peeks through its initial rusticity. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $47

Cramele Halewood 2009 Kronos Limited Edition Pinot Noir (Dealu Mare). Delicate yet beguiling, with aromas of violets, ripe pomegranates and granite, there’s an Old World elegance that sets this Romanian Pinot Noir apart. The palate is concentrated, with crisp red cherry and plum flavors, but keenly balanced by brisk acidity and soft, finely-grained tannins. Structured and refined with a medium long finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Cramele Halewood 2009 Hyperion Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare). There’s a striking minerality that adds depth to varietally characteristic scents of ripe cassis, violets and cedar. Full bodied and densely concentrated, with sweet, black-fruit flavor, it’s balanced by brisk acidity and fresh herb flavors that linger on the finish. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $30

Serve 2007 Terra Romana Cuvée Alexandru Cabernet Sauvignon (Dealu Mare). Whiffs of wet earth and wood add a rustic, foresty tone to aromas of preserved black fruit and violets. Big in both body and tannins, decanting could coax this wine into revealing more subtleties of fruit and minerals that may otherwise go unnoticed. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

Serve 2010 Terra Romana Chevalier de Dyonis Pinot Noir (Dealurile Munteniei). Charred wood notes on the nose and palate lend a smoky, slightly herbal tone to dense, richly concentrated black-cherry flavors. The char subsides substantially with aeration, revealing a well-composed wine that balances power with elegance. Terra Firma USA Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $8

Cramele Halewood 2009 Vitis Metamorfosis Merlot (Dealu Mare). Hints of rose petals are a curious contrast to earthier scents of soil and beets on this full bodied, slightly chunky Romanian Merlot. Pleasant for everyday dining; flavors of charred wood and preserved plum would pair nicely with an assortment of smoked meats and cheeses. Terra Firma USA Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $15

TURKEY

Kayra 2008 Vintage Single Vineyard Collecible Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig). Clean and bright on the nose, with loads of black plums and blueberries. This wine, made from Öküzgözü grapes, is an interesting glimpse into Turkish winemaking. Dry and medium bodied, with a firm tannic structure and brisk acidity, it finishes with a hint of milk chocolate flavor. Could benefit from decanting, but would be an interesting to age as well. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $20

Kayra 2006 Imperial Red (Elazig). Rustic on the nose, with scents of dried herbs and grass that mingle with pretty rose and tea-leaf notes, this wine

is an unusual blend of Turkish Öküzgözü and Bo azkere grapes with Syrah and Petit Verdot. Full bodied and soft on the palate, with ripe, red-fruit and mocha-chocolate flavor, it finishes with a coating of furry tannins. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $25

UKRAINE

Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Matured Rosy Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Aromatic, with notes of fresh red raspberries and sweet biscuit crumbs, this semisweet red sparkler is fun and fruity, but surprisingly brisk and quaffable. Exuberantly frothy, with a rich, mouth-filling foam, it finishes with just a whiff of dust and a sweet, red-berry note. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13

Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt Red Matured Semi-Sweet (Ukraine). Sweet blackberry and blueberry notes are deeply concentrated on the nose and palate of this Ukrainian semisweet red sparkler. Softly pétillant, it’s unabashedly fun and fruity, but an enjoyable choice for casual entertaining. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13

Artemovsk 2010 KrimSekt White Matured Semi-Dry Muscat (Ukraine). Sweetly floral on the nose and palate, with hints of peach gummy candy, this off-dry Muscat sparkling might seem a bit confected, but it’s nicely concentrated, with pure, clean flavors of peach and apricot nectar. Aggressive on the attack and finishes briskly. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13

Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Semi-Dry (Ukraine). Fresh apple notes on the nose of this off-dry sparkling are pretty, but hindered by whiffs of dust and green stems. Softly pétillant with a creamy, mouth-filling froth, it finishes with a pleasantly sweet note. An unusual blend of Pinot Franc, Chardonnay, Aligote and Riesling. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13

Artemovsk 2008 KrimSekt White Collection Brut (Ukraine). The nose is a tad dusty, with hints of unripe fruit and leaves, but the palate on this brut sparkling is clean and lemony, with a sharp, steely profile. Aggressive on the attack, with a stark, brisk acidity, it finishes with abundantly mouth-filling froth. Palmetto State Imports. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $13

SOUTH AFRICA CHENIN BLANC

Graham Beck 2009 Bowed Head Chenin Blanc (Paarl). A ripe and forward style with upfront notes of pineapple, softly-grilled peach, juicy melon and a touch of spice. The mouthfeel is round and rich, but with enough acidic cut to keep the palate fresh and lively through the long finish. Flavors of sweet or-

ange citrus and ripe green fig linger endlessly. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. Price: $28 abv: 14%

Rudera 2009 Robusto Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Attractively ripe aromas of melon and softly baked apples lead the nose, with a touch of sweet smokiness, almost like cured bacon, following close behind. Medium weight with balanced, lifting acidity and a spice-infused clementine rind finish. DRG Imports. —L.B. Price: $21 abv: 14%

Rudera 2009 De Tradisie Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). This Chenin seems to have an older soul than its peers, with mature notes of honeyed almond and sweet spice that infiltrate the Anjou pear and hard peach flavors. Citrus pith adds a touch of bitterness to the otherwise toasty, sweet spice-infused finish. DRG Imports. —L.B. Price: $19 abv: 14%

Spice Route 2009 Chenin Blanc (Swartland). A brilliant gold color, this Chenin boasts wood-infused fruit notes of pear, peach pit and melon alongside accents of honeysuckle and toasted brioche. The round, slightly slick mouthfeel is elevated with a mouthwatering acidic cut to the close. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. Price: $15 abv: 14%

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Lomond 2010 Pincushion Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Cape Agulhas). A delicious Sauv Blanc from one of the coolest areas of South Africa, it takes a while for this wine to fully express itself. Green pepper and grass start on the nose, but then subside to allow green fig, lime rind and tart tropical fruit accents to unfold. Balanced and refreshing, with a fynbos herb note that remains through the long finish, almost like fresh hops. Stanfield & Stuart Wine Co. —L.B. Price: $25 abv: 13.5%

Morgenhof 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). Lemon verbena and green grass aromas waft from the glass, with secondary notes of grapefruit and stone fruit to round it out. Vibrant acidity brightens this medium-weight mouth, with a touch of green plum-skin flavor and soft bitterness remaining through the lively finish. Terry Seitz. —L.B. Price: $19 abv: 13.5%

Constantia Glen 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Constantia). There’s a ripe orange-oil streak in the background of the bouquet, boosting rich aromas of tropical fruit and hay. The texture is full but framed by cleansing acidity and a tart, slightly pithy accent on the close. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B. Price: $15 abv: 13.5%

Southern Right 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay). Hay, green plum and gooseberry lead off on the nose, while ripe hints of passion fruit and pineapple acidity flood the mouth. Lifted, with good cut and freshness, and a mouthwatering close. DeWineMag.com | 35

licious now, but should hold together nicely for another couple of years. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $19

of spice. Drink now–2015. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Steenberg 2010 Private Cellar Series Sauvignon Blanc (Coastal Region). Tart and fresh, with lovely aromas of grass, green plum and asparagus. Glimmers of stony minerality flash on the palate, with lime pith and plum skin flavors driving through to the mouthwatering finish. Brisk and slightly pricky texture. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $16

Thelema 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch). There’s a detectible fynbos character to the herbal edge of this wine, mingling with the white peach and gooseberry fruit aromas and flavors. A clementine citrus edge remains through the long finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Glen Erskine 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin). A good value selection, with green notes of bell pepper, asparagus and lime on the nose and in the mouth. Lightweight, with good lift and a herbal character that lingers on the finish. The Triton Collection. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $12

Morgenhof 2010 Fantail Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch). Solid and straightforward, this refreshing and vibrant Sauv Blanc is light and approachable, with aromas and flavors of lemon, sweet grass and pineapple core throughout. A crowd-pleasing selection for entertaining. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

Thelema 2010 Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc (Elgin). A bit muted and shy on the nose, with faint accents of fresh grass, sweet citrus and just-ripe gooseberry. The palate offers a pithy-citrus flavor, adding a touch of bitterness to the clean close. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

CHARDONNAY

Hamilton Russell 2010 Chardonnay (Hemel en Aarde). Hamilton Russell just knows how to do Chard right, striking superb balance and finesse in a wine that’s drinkable now but can age for another five-plus years. Baked apple, barely-ripe honeydew, lemon custard and a touch of beeswax dance in the bouquet and transition seamlessly into the softlytoasted palate. A beautiful seam of acidity threads it all together and lifts the lengthy finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $32

Buitenverwachting 2010 Chardonnay (Constantia). Rich, ripe and full aromas of baked apple and melon are laced with spicy accents of cinnamon, ginger and vanilla bean. Medium weight but well-balanced in the mouth; bright acidity and minerality tie everything together on the palate. A lime flavor lingers on the long close, followed finally by a touch 36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Rustenberg 2010 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). A stunning Chard that shows the greatness of the vintage in the wine’s superb balance between ripe fruit flavors of pear and melon and vibrant acidity. Soft floral accents add depth to the nose, while well-integrated oak flavors infuse the palate and spice up the long finish. Delicious now, but shows promise for some aging. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Rustenberg 2009 Five Soldiers Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Named after five stone pine trees that stand over the vineyards, this small-production Chard is lush and toasty, offering great weight and richness followed by a long, nutty finish. Notes of red apple skin and peach are accented by hints of white clover and honeysuckle that unfold with time in the glass. Brisk lime-flavored acidity lifts the mouth and provides freshness to the palate. Cape Classics. —L.B. Price: $38 abv: 13%

Vins d’Orrance 2010 Cuvée Anaïs Chardonnay (Western Cape). Named for the winemaker’s youngest daughter, this ripe and sweet selection boasts intense oak-driven aromas of butter and creamy vanilla that mingle well with the honeydew, pear and peach notes. Thankfully, there’s good cut to the round mouthfeel, as zesty orange-flavored acidity keeps the finish fresh and long. Drink now–2014. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $33

Hartenberg 2009 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Rich and round but not overdone, with a nice brightness to the apple, clementine and white peach aromas and flavors. Balanced and well-integrated, with all of the components working together in harmony. Closes on a brisk citrus-rind finish. Drink now–2014. Terry Seitz. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

Thelema 2009 Sutherland Chardonnay (Elgin). Forward aromas of sweet spice and baked apple lead the nose, while secondary hints of cobbler and vanilla cream follow. The palate is lush and ripe, but it’s kept in check by a streak of acidity that braces up the nutty finish. Rich, balanced and accessible. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Fairvalley 2009 Chardonnay (Western Cape). Flashy aromas of toast and butter mingle with tropical fruit aromas and flavors. There’s a touch of warmth on the nose, and the mouthfeel is round and fleshy. Drink now. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

VIOGNIER

Spice Route 2010 Viognier (Swartland). Delicate sweet-pea and white-flower aromas marry into forward fruit notes of fresh pear and hard

apricot. A mineral streak weaves through the lush palate, and a peach pit nuttiness lingers into the finish. Accessible and enjoyable now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $23

Spice Route 2009 Viognier (Swartland). Decadent scents of buttered brioche, honeydew and crushed yellow flowers lead the nose, while flavors of grilled yellow peaches and orange oil flood the palate. The mouthfeel is round and full, but countered by medium acidity and a slightly bitter note on the close. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Radford Dale 2009 Viognier (Stellenbosch). Flashy notes of wood-grilled apple, brioche and apricot fill the nose. The mouth is round and the palate spicy, as flavors of ginger and cedar dominate the stone fruit. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $25

MOSCATO

Jam Jar 2011 Moscato (Western Cape). Soft floral hints add depth to the otherwise straightforward ripe peach and white gummy bear aromas. There’s a good balance in the mouth, with a nice acidic lift and slightly bitter edge to cut the sweetness on the finish and close with the faintest hint of astringency. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 10% Price: $12

Makulu NV Sustainable Agriculture Perlè Moscato (Western Cape). A spritzy and effervescent selection, the carbonation helps to lift the inherent sweet fruit aromas and flavors of guava, peach and mushy pear. An ideal choice for a warm summer day by the pool, served very cold. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 6.5% Price: $7

Two Oceans 2011 Moscato (Western Cape). Sweet but not overdone, with attractive aromas of lychee, peach and rose water. Medium weight, with a fruity but somewhat thin finish. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —L.B. Price: $10 abv: 7.5%

Chaza NV Moscato (Western Cape). Sweet aromas and flavors of peach and lychee are accented by a hint of fresh rose petals. A soft spritz in the mouth cleans up the finish. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 6.5% Price: $5

WHITE BLENDS

Bizoe 2010 Henrietta Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Western Cape). This beautiful Semillon-dominant blend that shows great finesse, depth and power. Rich and opulent in every way, notes of baked red apple, lemon verbena, honey-drizzled peach and sweet orange oil flood the nose and mouth, while additional flavors of hazelnut cream, fig bread and soft sweet spice carry into the long finish. Round, but with enough acidic lift to keep it from being flab-

by. Drink now–2015. The Triton Collection. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $30

A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2009 White Blend (Coastal Region). A complex, kitchen-sink blend of 29% Chenin Blanc, 23% Roussanne, 11% Viognier, 11% Chardonnay, 10% Grenache Blanc, 5% Colombar, 5% Grenache Gris, 2% Sémillon, 2% Clairette and 1% Verdelho, there’s a lot to be discovered in this wine. Melon, pear and sweet citrus lead the bouquet, with nuances of orange blossom and honeysuckle, while spicy flavors of baked apple, glazed canteloupe and lightly-mulled pear flood the palate. Round and forward, with a silky texture; give it time to open up now or hold another couple of years. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

Bradgate 2010 Sauvignon Blanc-Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). A lovely blend of 77% Sauvignon Blanc and 23% Chenin Blanc, this light and lively wine is direct and focused, with good briskness to the green plum, fig and pear notes. A touch of floral character adds depth to the bouquet, while a lemon rind bitterness unfolds on the end. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. Price: $14 abv: 13.5%

Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap Viognier-Chenin Blanc-Grenache Blanc (Western Cape). This blend of 67% Viognier, 19% Chenin Blanc and 14% Grenache Blanc is crisp and tasty, with forward aromas of pear, hard peach, yellow florals and a touch of oak-driven spice. Roundly structured, with a lush texture and a nice, clean herbal characteristic to the close. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

MERLOT

Ernie Els 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). A dark and rich style of Merlot, this wine boasts intense aromas and flavors of black forest berries, plum flesh, cocoa powder and pencil shavings. Succulent, with a creamy texture, the tannins are fine but mouthcoating and provide a good frame to the sultry flavors. Chocolate and cedar spice linger on the close. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Glenelly 2009 The Glass Collection Merlot (Stellenbosch). Jammy black fruit and berry notes fill the nose and mouth, while a hint of bramble and milk chocolate add depth and interest. Medium weight, with dusty but structured tannins, and a fudgy finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Ken Forrester 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). Herbal accents grace the black plum and berry aromas and flavors, and a touch of biltong spice and meat mingle with the fruit for added character. Approachable and soft, with delicate tannins and an easy, friendly finish. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Helderberg Wijnmakerij 2009 Merlot (Stellenbosch). Red plum and small berries lead the nose of this Merlot, with hints of dusty dried blackberry in the back. The palate offers similar flavors, with a touch of sweet spice hanging on to the short but clean finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $13

mellow. Fortunately, there’s a great concentrated blackfruit core and enough acidity alongside the tannins to support long-term aging. Spicy and earthy, with accents of black tea, cedar and crushed violets. Try after 2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —L.B. Price: $31 abv: 14%

PINOTAGE

Fairview 2009 Primo Pinotage (Coastal Region). A stunning Pinotage that shows great varietal character in its aromas and flavors of black cherry and currant infused with spicy notes of biltong, bark, clay, cinnamon and soft tar. The wine is firmly structured, with gripping tannins and medium acidity, striking a balance between the astringency of the tannins and freshness of the fruit. Nuances of baking spice and fudge linger on the close. Tight now; try after 2015. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Spice Route 2009 Pinotage (Swartland). For full review see page 8. abv: 14% Price: $23

Lions Drift 2009 Silkbush Mountain Vineyards Pinotage (Breedekloof). Dusty dark cherry and blackberry fruit dominate the nose, with secondary aromas of game, peppery spice and tobacco. The dark fruit character continues on the palate, transitioning into the finish, which is laced with hints of mocha and spice. Medium weight, with nice vibrancy in the mouth. Drink now-2015. South Atlantic Wines. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

MOURVÈDRE

Tormentoso 2009 Mourvèdre (Paarl). Fleshy black-plum, cherry and blackberry notes lead this medium-weight wine, with a light dusting of cocoa powder. Dark but vibrant in the mouth, with a good amount of pepper and licorice on the finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

RED BLENDS

Ernie Els 2007 Signature (Stellenbosch). The 2007 vintage was generally a great one for Bordeaux-style reds in Stellenbosch, and the Els Signature definitely demonstrates it. Sure, it’s ripe and sexy with a lot of sweet oak characteristics like cocoa powder and smoky wood, but it’s got the ripe fruit core of black plum and dark forest berries to back it up. Spicy layers of leather, cigar box and black tea leaves add complexity to the palate, while chewy tannins provide a firm structure. A bit young now, so try after 2015. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

Meerlust 2007 Rubicon (Stellenbosch). One of the best vintages of Rubicon to date, and for the price it’s a fantastic value that’s great for building up your cellar. Right now, the wine is still young and tight, with firm, gripping tannins that need some time to

Constantia Glen 2008 Five (Constantia). This stunning Bordeaux-style blend opens with ripe aromas of black fruits like cherry, currant and plum, laced with a serious licorice and spice streak that shows staying power. The seductive mouthfeel boasts a slightly creamy texture with mouthfilling tannins. The palate is loaded with mulled boysenberry. Hints of tobacco, mocha and sweet spice all linger on the long close. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $38

A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2010 Secateurs Red Blend (Coastal Region). A complex blend of 75% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault, 8% Cab Sauv, 6% Gren and 1% each of Carignan and Mourvèdre, this is a concentrated and flavorful selection that’s brimming with raspberry sauce and dark berry fruit aromas and flavors. Framed by black tea, sweet spice and vanilla bean accents, the mouth is firmly structured with medium tannins and acidity, ending on a soft, roasty note. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Price: $17 abv: 14%

Constantia Glen 2008 Three (Constantia). A great value, this Merlot-dominant blend, with splashes of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc exudes ripe aromas and flavors of rich dark fruit and berries jazzed up with layers of cigar tobacco, leather, savory herbs and tree bark. Concentrated and mouthfilling, with a velvety texture, it’s a well-balanced wine with fine, but persistent tannins and a lengthy finish. Amara Wines LLC. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $24

Mulderbosch 2008 Faithful Hound (Stellenbosch). Brims with dark fruit notes of mulled boysenberry, cassis and black cherry, all streaked with spicy accents of menthol and black tea leaves. The mouthfeel is slightly creamy, but framed by medium tannins. Notes of licorice stick, espresso and roasted cocoa nibs linger through the long close. Drink now–2014. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Edgebaston 2010 The Pepper Pot (Stellenbosch). An interesting blend of equal parts Syrah and Mourvèdre wiith 8% Tannat, The Pepper Pot offers concentrated aromas and flavors of dark forest berries and fleshy black plums. A hint of leather and game unfolds on the finish, while medium acidity keeps the flavors fresh on the palate. Southern Starz, Inc. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Ernie Els 2010 Big Easy Red (Western Cape). A kitchen-sink blend of 60% Shiraz, 20% Cab Sauv, 7% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault and 3% Viognier. Aromas of crushed violet pet-

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als are pitted against the intense mulled-raspberry and black-fruit core. Drinkable now, with approachable tannins and a dusty, cocoa-sprinkled finish, but could age until 2014. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Releaf 2010 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz (Western Cape). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $12

Tormentoso 2009 Syrah-Mourvèdre (Paarl). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

Ken Forrester 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Western Cape). It takes some time for this wine to open up in the glass, but when it does you’re greeted with black cherry and cassis aromas laced with hints of cigar box. Structured with mouthcoating tannins and medium acidity, a leathery texture carries through the close. Cape Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. Price: $12 abv: 14%

Boekenhoutskloof 2010 The Wolftrap Syrah-Mourvèdre-Viognier (Western Cape). Bright red mixed berries are infused with a mocha streak, filling the medium weight, but juicy palate. Straightforward and enjoyable with clean fruit flavors and a short but softly spiced finish. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

Guardian Peak 2010 Frontier Red (Western Cape). Mocha notes are upfront on the nose, with supporting fruit elements of raspberry and cherry flesh. Medium weight with a touch of bitter fruitskin flavors in the mouth, and a short but clean finish. Easy and straightforward; drink now. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Leopard’s Leap 2009 Pinotage-Shiraz (Western Cape). A funky edge frames this wine, both on the nose and in the mouth, and adds character to the otherwise straightforward blackberry, boysenberry and fig-preserve core. Cured meat and sweet spice grace the palate and persist through the mediumlength close. The blend is 52% Pinotage and 48% Shiraz. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

Goats do Roam Wine Co. 2010 Red (Western Cape). Suggestions of soft spice and bark jazz-up the dark fruit center of this blend, made with 75% Syrah, 13% Cinsault, 7% Mourvèdre, 4% Carignan and 3% Grenache. Mouthwatering black cherry and raspberry sauce flavors flood the mouth and stay through the solid finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $10

Robertson Winery 2010 Shiraz-Mourvèdre-Viognier (Robertson). Skin-driven red fruit characteristics abound on the nose, alongside soft vanilla and purple floral accents. Cherry and mulberry 38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

flavors dominate in the lightly-structured mouth, and the wine closes with a mouthwatering freshness. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $10

competitors; try it with dessert rather than as an apéritif. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. abv: 8.5% Price: $13

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

Rooiberg 2010 Roodewyn Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Robertson). With 12 months spent in French oak, this wine offers rounded notes of boysenberry and cassis framed by hints of purple florals and sweet spice. There’s a lively lift to the fruit in the mouth, driving the palate to a clean and juicy finish. Drink now. Worthwhile Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $10 Two Oceans 2010 Cabernet SauvignonMerlot (Western Cape). Soft sweet spice and black tea characters mingle with black cherry and plum flesh aromas and flavors. Medium weight and approachable, with dusty tannins and a clean, licorice-kissed finish. Drink now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. Price: $10 abv: 13.5%

AUSTRALIA MOSCATO

Innocent Bystander 2011 Moscato (Victoria). Innocent Bystander has been ahead of the Moscato curve, making this wine for a number of years, and it has always been among the best from Australia. The 2011 is perfumed and spicy, with ample strawberry and cherry fruit and a soft, frothy feel in the mouth. Drink it over the next six months or so. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 5.5% Price: $14

Two Hands 2011 Brilliant Disguise Moscato (Barossa Valley). A bit weightier than many Australian versions, this is a pale straw Moscato with a soft, frothy mouthfeel. It’s floral on the nose, but mainly citrusy in the mouth, finishing on lime and grapefruit notes. Drink now. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 8% Price: $22/500 ml

Jacob’s Creek NV Sparkling Moscato (South Eastern Australia). This pale strawcolored Moscato comes across as very citrusy and clean—lemon more than Muscat’s typical orange. It’s light, frothy and sweet, with a mouthwatering finish. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. abv: 9% Price: $13

Lindemans 2010 Bin 90 Moscato (South Eastern Australia). This is a frankly sweet, dessert style of still Moscato. It’s modest in alcohol, offering up notes of oranges, melons and honey that are reasonably balanced on the finish. The price makes it a bargain. Treasury Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 9% Price: $7

Zed NV Rosé Moscato (Australia). Zed is a pale flamingo in color, with plenty of hallmark Muscat aromas and flavors of orange and just a hint of berries. It is a bit heavy and rich compared to some of its

Zonte’s Footstep 2010 Doctoressa di Lago Single Site Pinot Grigio (Fleurieu Peninsula). Nicely rounded in texture without being flabby, this is a lively, crisp white wine, well endowed with flavors reminiscent of melon, pear and lime. Perfect to drink now with most seafood dishes, or as an apéritif. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Hazyblur 2010 Pinot Gris (Kangaroo Island). This wine almost quivers with freshness when first sniffed, it’s so vibrant and citrusy. Then it broadens out nicely on the palate, delivering ripe melon and apple flavors and ample weight. Drink it now and over the next few months. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C. Price: $23 abv: 14%

Sidewood 2010 Pinot Gris (Adelaide Hills). This medium-bodied dry white is notable for its balance and harmony. Citrus, wet stone and green apple aromas and flavors all come into play, none of them dominant, then end on a bright, grapefruity note. Drink now. USA Wine West. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Robert Oatley 2010 Pinot Grigio (Adelaide Hills). This Pinot Grigio is faintly coppery in color (trendy in some circles), with slightly floral and citrus overtones. It’s modest in alcohol, but reasonably plump on the midpalate, delivering melon and apple-skin flavors before finishing crisp and refreshing. Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. abv: 12.2% Price: $17

James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Pinot Grigio (Adelaide Hills). Another faintly copper-hued Pinot Grigio from the Oatley family, this one offers modest apple, melon and citrus notes, medium body and a slightly tannic edge to the tart, lemony finish. Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. Price: $14 abv: 12.8%

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Sauvignon Blanc (Great Southern). An intense, flavorful rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, this is grapefruity from start to finish, balanced by slightly riper notes of pineapple and a custardy richness to the wine’s texture. Pair it with bold fish dishes over the next 6–9 months. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $15

Katnook Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Coonawarra). Coonawarra’s not known for Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a very good example. It’s medium in weight and dominated by citrus, but it also sneaks in some slightly tropical nuances before ending

in a zesty, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Victoire Imports. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Taltarni 2009 Three Monks Fumé Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (South Eastern Australia). This takes a page from California in its naming convention and style, which includes a good proportion of barrel-fermentation and oak maturation. Toast and vanilla frame melon and fig notes, and the midpalate is slightly creamy in texture before the wine turns crisp and lemony on the finish. Drink now. Clos Du Val Wine/ Goelet Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

Sidewood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). This could be straight out of New Zealand given its styling, which features pungent notes of crushed tomato leaf and gooseberries. It’s light and refreshing, with a clean, crisp finish. USA Wine West. —J.C. Price: $18 abv: 12.5%

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

page 6. abv: 14.5%

Penley Estate 2008 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). It’s slightly oversized to be truly a classic representation of Coonawarra Cabernet, but this wine still punches all the buttons, from cassis and cedar to mint and earth. It’s firmly structured, with a finish that manages to be dry, velvety and mouthwatering, all at the same time. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $50

James Oatley 2010 Tic Tok Sauvignon Blanc (Western Australia). This is a fresh, grapefruity wine, accented by fresh cut grass and green herbs. It’s nicely proportioned and medium bodied, with a tart, slightly pithy edge to the finish. Drink now. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. abv: 12.8% Price: $14

Coldstream Hills 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Yarra Valley). Coldstream Hills is better known for its Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than its Sauvignon Blanc, but this is a solid effort. It’s medium in body, with simple grapefruit and pineapple flavors and a crisp, clean finish. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

Zonte’s Footstep 2010 The Love Symbol Single Site Savignin Blanc Savagnin (Langhorne Creek). Once thought to be Albariño, this grape variety is actually native to France’s Jura. In this example from South Australia, it’s a lean, crisp white, with hints of pencil shavings that accent its grapefruity flavors. It’s pretty, harmonious and a good all-around white for drinking over the next 6–9 months. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $15

Tamburlaine 2009 Wine Lovers Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay (Orange). This 50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay is a light-bodied, crisply focused wine. Lime and green apple notes dominate. MHW, Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13.1% Price: $15

Price: $38

D’Arenberg 2010 The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). The relatively cool Adelaide Hills are making a name for their Sauvignon Blanc, and this example shows a restrained, grassy bouquet and flavors of grapefruit and tangerine. It’s plump on the midpalate, then almost razor-sharp on the finish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $17

Peter Lehmann 2006 Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). For full review see

Morambo Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Padthaway). A good value in New World Cabernet, with supple, silky tannins framing cassis fruit that’s just starting to show some evolution toward cedar, leather and earth. Lingering vanilla and a burst of tart berries mark the finish. Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Penley Estate 2009 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Katnook Estate 2009 Founder’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). This is a classically styled Coonawarra Cab, with ample cassis, cedar and mint wrapped up into a balanced, wellproportioned whole. The Katnook style favors silky tannins over power, making this elegant Cabernet one to drink over the next several years. Victoire Imports. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Katnook Estate 2006 Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Katnook’s top Cabernet is always oaky, and the 2006 is no exception, featuring plenty of brown sugar and caramel aromas. Vanilla and cedar dominate the palate, forming an attractive wooden shell over cassis fruit. Drink it now if you like that sort of full-on youthful oak, or hold it a decade until it develops a soft, rich patina of age. Victoire Imports. —J.C. Price: $43 abv: 14%

Parker 2008 Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). A solid example of Coonawarra Cabernet, the 2008 Terra Rossa features a charming combination of cherrycassis fruit and eucalypt with cigar box and vanilla. It’s medium to full in body, with fine balance and a long finish. Drink now–2016. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Yalumba 2009 Menzies The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). There’s a bright, almost Ribena-like quality to the fruit in this wine, with underlying hints of wood and mint. It’s full bodied, but the tannins are modest and softly rounded, making it deceptively easy to down. Drink now–2018. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $25

Katnook Estate 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). An easy-drinking Coonwarra Cab, with regionally characteristic notes of cassis, cedar and mint. It’s medium in weight, with a finish that turns tart and tea-like. Drink now–2017. Victoire Imports. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

RED BLENDS

Yalumba 2004 The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (Barossa). A blend of 69% Cabernet and 31% Shiraz, Yalumba’s 2004 The Reserve is still firm and dusty on the finish, suggesting at least another 2–3 years of cellaring are warranted. Cassis, caramel, earth and vanilla notes are all nicely integrated into a cohesive whole, with the result being a dark, chocolaty wine that’s savory as much as it is fruity. Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Price: $125 abv: 13.5%

S.C. Pannell 2008 Pronto Red (Adelaide). Pronto red is 77% Grenache, with the remainder a blend of Touriga Nacional (11%), Syrah (7%) and Monastrell (5%). It starts off with leather and spice, then folds in cherries and licorice. It’s full-bodied, round and slightly warm, with a supple, spice-driven finish. Drink now-2015. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

Inkberry 2009 Mountain Estate ShirazCabernet Sauvignon (Central Ranges). This 60-40 blend combines Shiraz’s blackberry fruit with Cab’s slightly herbal notes to make a pretty marriage. It shows enough firmness to stand up to rich, fatty meats now, or to sustain it through up to a decade of cellaring. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

Greg Norman Estates 2008 Cabernet Merlot (Limestone Coast). At only 7% Merlot, it’s unclear why it’s even mentioned on the label, especially since it seems to be so obviously Cabernet in style. Cassis and chocolate notes dominate this richly textured, full-bodied red. Drink now. Treasury Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

Penley Estate 2008 Chertsey (Coonawarra). In certain vintages, this wine can be excellent, but in 2008 it’s merely good. The fruit—a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Cabernet Franc (32%) and Merlot (19%)—comes across as slightly pruny or stewed, while the tannins remain firm and leathery. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

WineMag.com | 39

GRENACHE

Clarendon Hills 2008 Romas Grenache (Clarendon). Full-bodied and lush in style, with aromas of cherries and spice. On the palate, it delivers waves of fresh fruit and hints of cocoa, but also enough complexity to hold your interest before finishing on a long, mouthwatering note. Drink now–2016. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Clarendon Hills 2008 Kangarilla Grenache (Clarendon). Depending on the vintage, any of Clarendon Hills’ Grenaches can excel. In 2008, Kangarilla offers a lovely texture somewhere between fine silt and silk. Brandied cherries give an impression of warmth, balanced by herbal nuances and reined in by that fine-grained texture. Drink now–2015. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Chapel Hill 2008 Bush Vine Grenache (McLaren Vale). This ripe Grenache is fullbodied and fruit-driven, but seems to have the stuffing to last at least 3–4 years. Cherry-berry flavors are punched up by herb and spice shadings that linger on the finish. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

Clarendon Hills 2008 Blewitt Springs Grenache (Clarendon). Featuring some dusty tannins on the finish, this is fairly structured for Aussie Grenache. Dried herbs and dried cherries are balanced by hints of dusty earth on the long finish. Drink 2013– 2017. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

SHIRAZ/SYRAH

John Duval Wines 2008 Eligo Shiraz (Barossa). Duval used to make Grange, so it is no surprise that his current luxury Shiraz is so successful. The 2008 Eligo oozes with oaky sweetness—vanilla, maple syrup and brown sugar notes—but balances that with potent cassis fruit and somehow ends on dry, savory notes of tobacco and spice. Drink now-2018, although it could surprise and go longer. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

Penfolds 2008 RWT Shiraz (Barossa Valley). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

Grant Burge 2009 Miamba Shiraz (Barossa). This full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz from the Lyndoch subregion of the Barossa starts off with vanilla, raspberries and a dusting of confectioner’s sugar, but turns darker and more savory with air, adding dark berry and hickory notes. The long finish is richly textured, yet simultaneously marked by crisp acids. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Groom 2009 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Winemaker Daryl Groom has crafted an expansive Shiraz that’s full bodied and lushly textured but not 40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

unstructured. Flavors of blackberry and mocha weave in and out with notes of cola, chocolate and black olive on the softly lingering finish. Drink now–2018. Groom Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

Chapel Hill 2008 The Vicar Shiraz (McLaren Vale). A brutish, muscular style of Shiraz, filled with intense notes of plum and tar and accented by hints of coconut and vanilla. Yet for all its concentration and richness, the finish is surprisingly elegant. Drink now–2018. Baum Wine Imports Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Coriole 2008 Estate Grown Shiraz (McLaren Vale). A perfect recreational player’s drive, right down the middle of the fairway, this wine neatly splits the range of flavors between savory and fruity, blending meaty, olive notes with mixed berries and vanilla. Long and lushly textured on the finish, like velvet. Drink now–2020. The Country Vintner. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Price: $22 abv: 14%

Glaetzer 2010 Bishop Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Soft and lush, this is a decadent mouthful of blackberries and plums framed by ample vanilla. It’s balanced, in its own open-knit, easy-drinking style, with a sexy, drink-me-now immediacy that some may find too obvious. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 15.1% Price: $36

Kilikanoon 2009 Killerman’s Run Shiraz (South Australia). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Rosedale Wines 2009 Cat Amongst the Pigeons Nine Lives Shiraz (Barossa). A superb value, this wine’s weighty presence and rich texture convey the warmth of the Barossa without ever stepping over into overripeness. Instead, it delivers mixed berry fruit, peppery spice and overtones of vanilla and chocolate. Drink now and over the next few years. Sabemos Beverages. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Shingleback 2009 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). The 2009 Shirazes from South Australia have been grading out well, and Shingleback’s is no exception, representing an excellent value. It’s dense and jammy, with rich black cherry fruit framed by oaky notes of baking spices and cocoa. This intense, extracted wine can stand up to hearty braises or stews. Precept Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Sidewood 2008 Reserve Syrah (Adelaide Hills). Interestingly, Sidewood’s 2008 Reserve Shiraz comes in considerably lower in alcohol than the regular bottling. It features a complex interplay of herb, spice and olive that gives it a stylistic resemblance resemblance to northern Rhône Syrahs. The tannins are silky, the finish long and balanced. Drink now–2018. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $24

Wolf Blass 2008 Gold Label Shiraz (Barossa). An excellent value, the 2008 Gold Label Shiraz is a full-bodied, powerfully built wine, filled out by cassis, chocolate and tobacco flavors. It’s long and velvety on the finish, not just an upfront powerhouse. Drink now–2020. Treasury Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $25

John Duval Wines 2009 Entity Shiraz (Barossa). Expansive, round and supple in the mouth, this Shiraz features lush raspberry fruit, framed by vanilla oak. There’s a tart edge to the finish, providing a solid sense of balance to the lingering warm, chocolaty notes. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Mitolo 2009 Jester Shiraz (McLaren Vale). Cedar, chocolate and cherry are the main players, with hints of alfalfa adding a modicum of complexity. It’s full bodied, round and warm, with tannins that seem firmer than many in this price category, making it a good steakhouse red. Drink it now and over the next several years. Vintus LLC. —J.C. Price: $21 abv: 14.9%

Oliverhill 2009 Red Silk Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This Shiraz does a nice job of balancing its fruit-sweet characters of blackberry and blueberry with savory elements of herbs and green olives. It’s fullbodied, warm and creamy-textured, with a warm, chocolaty finish. Drink it now and over the next few years. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

Ross Estate 2009 Lights Out Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Sure, this wine is full bodied and lush, filled with ripe raspberry fruit, but there is also a sense of underlying structure, and some lovely herb-spice complexities, like rhubarb, cedar, cinnamon, vanilla and cracked pepper. Drink it over the next 2–3 years. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Sidewood 2008 Syrah (Adelaide Hills). A concentrated, intense wine, filled with cherryberry fruit and more than a hint of vanilla. It’s tart and edgy, with some firm tannins on the finish, so hold it another 12 months and then drink it over the next 5–6 years. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Price: $18 abv: 14.5%

Thorn Clarke 2010 Shotfire Shiraz (Barossa). An excellent value, the 2010 Shotfire Shiraz offers bold, punched-up cherry-berry fruit framed by hints of vanilla, dried herbs and cracked pepper. It’s a big wine that’s reasonably creamy in texture, with plenty of mouthcoating flavor on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Kilikanoon 2008 M Reserve Shiraz (McLaren Vale). Kilikanoon’s 2008 M features bold berry fruit, lashings of vanilla and a bit of eucalyptus on the nose, followed up by rich blackberry and vanilla flavors. It’s a full-bodied wine that nevertheless

turns crisp and edgy on the finish. Drink now–2018. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

ise, but it’s tough to say if they will all come together in time. Banfi Vintners. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Milton Park 2009 Shiraz (South Australia). This wine may lack the dramatic power of its top-flight brethren, but it still satisfies, delivering reasonably complex notes of cherries, rhubarb and olive carried by silky tannins and moderate alcohol. Drink this terrific value over the next year or two. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Thorn Clarke 2008 William Randell Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Shows some of the warmth of the vintage in its elevated alcohol levels and high-toned fruit. It’s full-bodied and supple, with flavors of brandied plums and baking spices. Drink it over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 16% Price: $40

Yalumba 2010 Made with Organic Grapes Shiraz (South Australia). Not the darkest, biggest or richest Shiraz to ever come out of Australia, this is nevertheless a delightful wine. A green peppercorn note accents red raspberry and cherry fruit, with just a hint of vanilla in the background. Drink it over the next year or two. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

Grant Burge 2010 Shiraz (Barossa). Full bodied and meaty, with its slightly creamy texture supporting ample spice and bright berry flavors. This easy-drinking, moderately complex Barossa Shiraz is probably best consumed over the next 2–3 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Hope Estate 2009 Shiraz (Hunter Valley). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Rolling 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges). Despite the inexpensive price tag, this is a solid Shiraz, offering ripe black cherry fruit and touches of tree bark and orris root. It’s medium-bodied, yet features a velvety texture and plenty of length on the finish. Drink now–2015. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Block 50 2009 Shiraz (Central Ranges). A supple, medium-bodied Shiraz ideal for nearterm consumption, the 2009 Block 50 Shiraz delivers clean aromas and flavors of dark fruit—black cherries and plums—and a hint of vanilla. It does turn a bit tart on the finish. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

Château Tanunda 2008 Noble Baron Shiraz (Barossa). Already showing a bit of bricking, this is a full-bodied Shiraz that’s a bit coarse in texture, with aromas and flavors of plum and brown sugar. The finish matches tart, zingy fruit with sweet, molasses-tinged oak. The individual components show prom-

Grant Burge 2010 Benchmark Shiraz (South Australia). This wine starts off a bit tarry or rubbery, but decanting allows the bright berry fruit to come forward. Raspberries are limned with hints of mint and other herbs and framed by vanilla. It’s medium-bodied, with a tangy finish and a crisp, satiny texture. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Anthropology 2009 Pure Estate Shiraz (Central Ranges). The oak treatment stands out a little in this wine, imparting a dusty, wood-smoke component as well as plenty of vanilla. The cherry fruit is otherwise nicely presented, with ample weight and a touch of creaminess to the texture. Lion Nathan USA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.9% Price: $11

ARGENTINA CHARDONNAY

Viña Cobos 2010 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Chardonnay (Perdriel). A big, warm style of Chard. The nose is soft, toasty and loaded with butter, baked apple and vanilla aromas. Feels full, round and creamy, while oak sits at the forefront of the flavor profile, with toast, apple and vanilla lurking behind. Finishes sweet and smooth. 400 cases made. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

Alamos 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Fruity on the nose, with a friendly mix of pineapple, apple, melon and powdered sugar aromas. Feels smooth and round but not heavy, with good acidity and likable, simple flavors of melon, banana and apple. There’s a light note of toast on the finish. E & J Gallo. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Chardonnay (Perdriel). Light oak aromas blend nicely with white flower scents and peach notes. The palate is round, smooth and honest, with plump flavors of vanilla, pear and melon. Oaky on the finish, then dry and toasty. Nice for a warm-weather Chard. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Salvatore Principe 2011 Family Chardonnay (Mendoza). Peach and apple aromas come with a dose of minerality and a kiss of oak. Feels juicy and fruity, with citric acids pushing bright peach, nectarine and apple flavors. Cleansing on the finish, with mild bitterness. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

San Felipe 2010 Oak Cask Chardonnay (Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy. abv: 13.5%

Price: $10

Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Reserva Chardonnay (Mendoza). Oddly perfumed and flowery smelling, with peach and orange notes. Feels jumpy and unfocused, with sweet, almost candied flavors of melon and pineapple. Creamy oak rises up on the finish, where it matches up against stone fruit flavors. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

Portillo 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Uco Valley). White peach and papaya aromas are sweet and tropical, while saline notes play second fiddle. Feels tangy, juicy and lean, with dilute lemon and green banana flavors. Wet and watery on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

Terrazas de Los Andes 2010 Altos del Plata Chardonnay (Mendoza). Chunky and murky on the nose, with melon and papaya aromas. Feels round but light in the center, with vanilla, pear and melon flavors. Fleshy and simple on the finish. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

Amadores 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Stalky aromas of burnt hay blend with white fruit scents. Bland apple and stalky flavors are balanced by decent acidity, then finishes with burnt, oily accents. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $13

Tierra de Antes 2010 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Mild lemon and minerally aromas are about as expressive as it gets, although you get some apple and melon flavors. Finishes with more apple flavor, a fleshy feel and not much follow through. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

MOSCATO

Casa de Campo 2011 Moscato (Mendoza). Peach, scented candle wax and matchstick make for a solid bouquet. Feels good, maybe a touch cloying, but not too much. Flavors of crystallized mango and pineapple mix with fresh melon, and the finish is clean. About all you could hope for from an $8 Argentine Moscato. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. Price: $8 abv: 10.5%

Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Moscato (Mendoza). Foamy in the Asti style, with metallic, earthy aromas of peach and lychee. Feels pretty good, with sweet, basic lychee and honeydew flavors. The finish is simply a carry over from the palate: it’s sweet and melony in flavor. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 7.6% Price: $10

Conquista 2011 Moscato (Mendoza). Neutral smelling except for pithy white fruit aromas. Feels sticky but not cloying, with lychee flavors that turn bitter towards the end. Short on the finish, with little activity or lasting flavor. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $9 WineMag.com | 41

TORRONTÉS

SPARKLING WINES

Recuerdo 2011 Torrontés (La Rioja). Vanilla cookies, peach and nectarine aromas work the opening. In the mouth, there’s a nice and even flow of acidity and pulpy tropical fruits. Flavors of tangerine, melon and lychee are authentic and well balanced, while the finish is musky, fresh and confirms the wine’s high quality. Blackbird Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

Colomé 2011 Torrontés (Calchaqui Valley). Perfectly good, but seemingly more simple and oily than in the past. Maybe that’s just perception, but the perception is that this is a mild, tropically influenced wine with a fleshy body and mild aromas and flavors of lychee, green melon and lime. Finishes short and pithy. Hess Collection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Caligiore 2011 Grazioso Made with Organically Grown Grapes Torrontés (Mendoza). Mild and powdery smelling, with inviting tropical undertones. The palate mixes flesh with freshness, and the flavors of lychee, green melon and white pepper are straight from the textbook. Finishes mildly bitter, which is natural for Mendoza Torrontés. Marquee Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. Price: $10 abv: 13%

Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Torrontés (Mendoza). Stalky and strained on the nose, with a burnt-hay aroma to go with more typical tropical fruit and lychee scents. Citrusy and basic, with oily flavors of peach and apple. Chunky on the back end, with heat on the finish W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Espuela del Gaucho 2011 Gaucho Spur Torrontés (Mendoza). Typically fragrant, with floral aromas vying with mildly green notes of lime and lychee. Feels tangy and downright citric, with lemon, orange, lime and green apple flavors. Cleansing and acidic on the finish, with lemony snap. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

WHITE BLENDS

Alfredo Roca 2011 Roca Chenin BlancChardonnay (San Rafael). Basic apple and straw aromas are not that intense but are, at the very least, open and clean. Feels easygoing and nice, with acidity giving it a lift. Tastes dry, with white pepper dust mixed with tropical fruit flavors. Turns more stalky and waxy on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

Aconga 2011 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay (Mendoza). Floral and citrusy smelling, with a lightness of being. Feels equally lean and light in the mouth, with fresh, floral flavors revolving around lychee and lime. Tropical and basic on the finish, with an easygoing way about it. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9 42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Hom NV Extra Brut (Mendoza). A little sweet on the nose, with powdered sugar, vanilla and white fruit aromas. Feels foamy but just fresh enough, with apple, melon and controlled stalky flavors. Finishes with dry apple notes. Good for Argentine sparkling; 70% Chardonnay and 30% Chenin Blanc. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.3% Price: $15 Coiron 2011 Extra Brut Chardonnay (Mendoza). Smells clean and mild, with peach and apple aromas. Rather foamy and rough feeling, with tangy flavors of stone fruits, green apple and pineapple. Light, juicy and fruity on the finish, but basic. Made from 100% Chardonnay using the Charmat method. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Hom NV Rosé Malbec (Mendoza). Oxidized aromas are not inviting. After the doughy, yeasty opening, the palate deals oxidized flavors of bitter and sweet red plum. Bitter on the finish; barely worth a look. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. Price: $17 abv: 12.6%

ROSÉS

Pulenta Estate 2011 La Flor Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Fresh and a little confected-smelling, then more citrusy and snappy in the mouth, with pink grapefruit and citrusy flavors that make your lips pucker and your palate come alive. Crisp, zesty and well done for Argentine rosé. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

Zorzal 2010 Malbec Rosé (Tupungato). Pasty and powdery smelling, with a flat, dullfeeling palate. Tastes sweet, fleshy and candied in front of a sugary finish with cotton candy flavors. Too sweet and simple to be taken more seriously. Delectatio Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Piattelli 2010 Premium Rosé of Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Cloudy to the eye, with strained aromas of sauerkraut and barnyard animal. Feels heavy and tastes rustic, with burnt, stalky, anonymous flavors. Shows bitterness and stalky flavors on the finish. Vinocopia. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Santa Julia 2011 + Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy. abv: 13%

Price: $10

Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Sweet oak on the nose results in creamy, chocolaty aromas, along with herbal notes, plum and berry. Feels tight but expansive, with solid tannins, bright acids and solid flavors of herbs, ber-

ry fruit, cassis, toast and chocolate. Keeps it together on the finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Finca Decero 2009 Remolinos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Standard cherry and plum aromas create a straightforward bouquet. The feel is hot and choppy, but there’s enough body and balance for it to weigh in properly. Tastes of sweet cassis, kirsch and creamy chocolate, with an oaky finish containing cocoa notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Bright berry aromas are comported and good. Feels driving and forward, because of its bold acidity and choppy tannins, but tastes nice and dark, with blackberry and cassis flavors. There’s a controlled burn to the finish, and overall the wine seems healthy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

Riglos 2009 Gran Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Fiery smelling at first, with aromas of mint, raw oak, coconut and baked berry fruits. Feels rich almost to the point of syrupy, with spicy, lightly green flavors infiltrating the core of cassis and berry. Finishes herbal and stalky, with a lingering green flavor. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $32

Santa Julia 2011 Organica Made With Organic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Pure and inviting, with a touch of char and minerality to go with basic plum and berry aromas. Feels good and grabby, with flavors of sweet blackberry, cassis, butter and molasses. Creamy, jammy and uncomplicated on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

Benegas 2009 Libertad Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Heavy and brooding, which makes sense seeing that it weighs in at 15% abv. So while it’s not exactly ringing with freshness and agility, it scores points for its full-bodied black plum and blackberry flavors, and the oak is well applied. A bit warm and baked, but still good. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $14

Maipe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A little fiery and forced on the nose, but its wild berry and charred aromas it’s solid. Feels full and stacked, with plum, cassis, pepper and a mild green element. Smooth in feel on the finish, but herbal tasting. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (San Rafael). It opens with raisin and stewed aromas, so its freshness is questionable. In the mouth, it’s actually round, subtle and fairly well structured, with oaky vanilla accenting lightly herbal berry and cassis flavors. Herbal as well on the finish, with a lasting flavor of coffee. Tango LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

Tapiz 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Opens with a pinch of green as well

as more standard cassis and berry aromas. Borderline sheer in the mouth, with pointed acidity and raspberry and plum flavors. Feels slightly abrasive, but on the plus side it’s fresh and juicy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

Graffigna 2008 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (San Juan). Every kind of pepper, from green to red to jalapeño, is present on the nose, along with red plum and spice aromas. Feels tight and zesty, with Italian-leaning flavors of tomato, oregano and basil along with cassis and strawberry. Crisp and agile on the finish, but tastes green. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Lexicon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Opens with an odd whiff of masa or cornmeal along with herbal berry aromas. Feels angular and narrowing, with herbal plum and dark berry flavors. Turns greener with time, ultimately finishing with brown sugar sweetness and green pepper notes. Good but herbal. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Price: $13 abv: 14%

Sur de los Andes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Roasted red berry and plum aromas carry the bouquet to a tannic, grabby palate with red fruit flavors and herbal shadings. Feels better on the finish, with tangy red fruit and nothing offensive. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

Arge & Tina 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (San Juan). Tomato and herbal aromas tell you most of what you need to know about this bargainpriced Cab. It’s somewhat green and sweet, with a raw feel and tannic bite. Tastes of tomato and herbal red plum. Feels light on the finish. IBESC Wine Distributor. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

Benegas 2008 Luna Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Citric smelling, with clipped aromas of berry fruits. Choppy tannins, heat and raisiny, sweet, cooked berry flavors and stemmy notes finish herbal tasting but full in feel. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

Familia Marguery 2010 Casa Marguery Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Murky smelling, with nondescript berry aromas. Ultratannic and hard in the mouth, much like chewing nails. Meanwhile, the flavors run herbal and earthy, with dark fruit carrying things to a hard, tannic finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaqui Valley). Cloudy to the eye, with overly green aromas of tomato and bell pepper, along with spice and dried cherry. Feels hot and acidic, with a clipped, cutting palate full of berry flavors, herbs and green pepper. Fresh but

herbal on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

Tomero 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Burnt and leafy on the nose, with murky, earthy aromas. Feels gritty but lively, with sweet, herbal berry fruit in front of a somewhat dilute and dull finish. A modest, herbal Cab that does the job. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

Andeluna 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Tupungato). Green smelling. Feels thick, grabby and stewed, with herbal, saucy flavors of tomato and red berry. That same sauciness defines the herbal finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $11

Mil Piedras 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Smells like wet clay with an accent of floral black fruit. In the mouth, it’s edgy and sharp, with rock-hard tannins that clamp down. Tastes lactic but not creamy, with sharp red-fruit flavors and a hard finish. Cannon Wines Limited. —M.S. Price: $11 abv: 13.5%

MALBEC

Viña Cobos 2009 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Hot and fiery at first, but then it tames itself while revealing jammy blackberry and roasted plum aromas. Feels extracted and full, with a mix of baked berry, herb and peppery flavors that run deep and delicious. Spicy and chocolaty on the oaky finish, with smooth tannins, sweetness and oaky length. Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $175

Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Similar in style to the higher-priced Cobos wine from the same vineyard. Bramare delivers cassis, plum and berry aromas rolled into a pleasant and familiar whole. Feels rich but refined, with meaty flavors that hit on leather, berry, black plum and chocolate. Spicy and chocolaty on the finish. Drink now through 2014. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $80

Finca Flichman 2008 Parcela 26 Limited Edition Malbec (Mendoza). After picking yourself up off the floor having digested the price, the wine is excellent but not otherwordly. Sweet, dense and calm on the nose, with alluring black fruit and raisin aromas. Feels hefty and gritty, with rooty, sweet flavors of brown sugar and baked blackberry. Finishes round, big and smooth, with generally good balance. 120 cases made; drink now through 2014. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $167

Salentein 2010 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Tapiz 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

Angulo Innocenti 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Deep purple in color, with a dense, compact bouquet showing ripe blackberry, density and heat. Full-force on the palate, with drying tannins along with prune, blackberry, licorice and peppery flavors. Serious and tannic, with richness, extract and power. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Maipe 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Dense and dark, with plum, prune, blackberry and earth aromas. Feels thick, meaty and composed, with blackberry and dark plum flavors leading the charge. Density and balance are the wine’s attributes; it’s full, mildly tannic and generous but not overdone or overoaked. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

Viña Cobos 2009 Bramare Rebon Vineyard Malbec (Perdriel). Packed and concentrated, with blueberry, blackberry, bramble and pastry aromas. Initially, it’s jumbled and out of joint, with jumpy acids and heavy flavors of blackberry, grilled meat and herbs, while on the finish, the fruit fades quickly, leaving weight, resin and vanilla. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

Zuccardi 2010 Q Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with cassis, black cherry, blackberry and dusty aromas that suggest leather. Feels healthy, with blazing acidity propelling dark fruit, toast and vanilla flavors. Juicy on the finish due to semisharp acids, with length and liveliness. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Altocedro 2010 Reserva Malbec (La Consulta). Oak is front and center on the bouquet, and with that come accents of dried cheese and sawdust. Feels saturated, layered and tannic in the mouth, with roasted berry, black plum, herb and spice flavors. Feels and tastes a touch resiny on the finish, more evidence of the wine’s barrel influence. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $29

Altocedro 2009 Gran Reserva Malbec (La Consulta). A very oaky style of Malbec. The bouquet is full of cough drop, milk chocolate and mint, while the palate feels solid and beefy, but resiny. Flavors of berry fruits are softened and sweetened by oak and chocolate, while the finish is woody and tannic. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Opens with hard-baked berry aromas that turn briary and herbal with airing. Smooth tannins and meaty blackberry flavors are matched by barrel-driven vanilla and spice. Oaky and minty on the finish, with spunk and length. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

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Lexicon 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and generous smelling, with pastry and solid black-fruit aromas. Feels good and balanced for a young Malbec, with flavors of sweet plum, blackberry and a medicinal character. Plump and fruity on the finish, and steady wire to wire. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Altocedro 2011 Año Cero Malbec (La Consulta). Concentrated aromas of blackberry come with leather and dried-cheese scents. The palate is full in depth and solid in feel, with flavors of creamy oak, medicinality and blackberry. Feels rich, grabby and tastes resiny on the finish, but there’s enough solid black fruit to override the oak. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $19

Mi Terruño 2008 Mayacaba Malbec (Mendoza). A big, dark, extracted Malbec with murky lead aromas of Graham cracker and sweet blueberry. The palate is jammy and chunky, with dark, earthy flavors of prune, blackberry and raisin. Finishes a bit pruny, but there’s enough acidity to maintain a sense of balance. Drink now. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Arge & Tina 2009 Malbec (San Juan). Honest plum and berry aromas get it going, followed by a fresh, comfortable palate with raspberry and plum flavors and nonpushy tannins. Feels entirely clean, with a pleasant red-fruit aftertaste. Everyday Malbec that gets it right. IBESC Wine Distributor. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

Nice 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Floral red fruit aromas carry a hint of minerality and garrigue. The palate is lively, with good overall balance. Tastes of ripe red plum, raspberry and vanilla, while the finish is light in weight and quick, but satisfying. Nice Winery. —M.S. Price: $30 abv: 13.5%

Nuna 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Bright, vivid and sizzling on the nose, then zesty, tight and acidic in the mouth, with high-toned plum, berry and red currant flavors offset by a touch of milk chocolate. Long on the finish, but not that nuanced or complex. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

Septima 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Warm, slightly leathery and earthy on the nose, with a hint of cheese. Feels full, nice and solid, with decent depth. Flavors of black fruits and pastry are friendly, while the finish is pleasant. Delivers all it can for the price. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

Solsticio 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). A big wine that handles its 15.3% abv. Smells of pastry, earth and soft berry fruit. Feels round but reticent, with no fire or heat but plenty of blackberry, molasses and coffee. Mellow, toasty and blackened on the finish, with an earthy feel and a baked aftertaste. Solsticio LLC. —M.S. Price: $15 abv: 15.3%

Tango Reàl 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec (San Rafael). Plum and berry aromas are straightforward, but also clean and nice. The palate on this wine from San Rafael is focused and orderly, with flavors of red fruits, spice and mild woody notes. Long lasting on the finish, with freshness and just a modicum of tannic bite. Tango LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

Viña Cobos 2010 Felino Malbec (Mendoza). Fiery, foxy and leathery on the bouquet, with a hint of latex in addition to ripe blackberry aromas. Feels round and fresh, with a complete mix of plum, berry and currant flavors. Finishes tight and legit, with good length and feel. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Colomé 2008 Reserva Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Smells cheesy and leathery, with herbal notes. Feels condensed and flat, as if it’s collapsing on itself. Flavors of baked berry and prune are dark and typical of very ripe Malbec, while the finish is warm but basic in feel and flavor. Bullish, sweet and heavy. Not Colomé’s best effort, especially given the price. Hess Collection. —M.S. Price: $90 abv: 15.9%

Finca Sophenia 2010 Altosur Malbec (Tupungato). Fresh, clean and pure, with standard dark berry aromas. Feels round, creamy and chewy, while the flavors tend towards black fruits and no shortage of oak. Tastes toasty and feels resiny on the finish, with vanilla and berry syrup filling up the aftertaste. The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

Finca Sophenia 2010 Reserve Malbec (Tupungato). Forceful from the opening, with floral notes, dark oak, shoe polish and char vying with black fruit aromas. Feels both lush and tough, with hard tannins poking through. Tastes of black fruits, cola and heavily toasted oak. Bittersweet on the finish; lusty and black but neither elegant nor light on its feet. The Country Vintner. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Malbec (Agrelo). Dense and inky on the bouquet, with blueberry as the core fruit aroma and some grass or alfalfa around the edges. Feels blocky and tannic, with sweet, roasted flavors of black fruits that come with a peppery aftertaste. Full on the finish, with coconut and oaky accents. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with berry fruit aromas, density and slightly medicinal notes. Feels bright and lively, with ample acidity pushing toasty, lightly herbal flavors of blackberry and plum. Shows mild spice, licorice and barrel notes on the finish, along with herbal notes. Seems like a very good everyday or value-driven choice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Nomade 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry and unusual smelling, with baking spice, cinnamon and exotic notes. Not your normal black-fruited bruiser; this wine spreads out in the mouth, with sweet flavors of nutmeg along with dry plum and berry fruit. Lively and warm on the finish, with zest and an herbal element. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $18 Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas feature a touch of licorice. Feels lively and alert, with edgy acids and juicy, forward flavors of plum and wild berry. Toasty, integrated and spicy on the finish, with pinches of green and black pepper. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

Alberti 154 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas and rubber on the nose. Feels good in the mouth, with proper weight and balance. Tastes ripe and fairly sweet; blackberry and dark plum flavors turn peppery with time. Easy to drink Malbec. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Price: $13 abv: 14%

Bodega Poesia 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy and leathery on the bouquet, with a cooked, charred element. Feels drawing but solid, with choppy tannins and flavors of baked berries, herbs and charred oak. Finishes warm and meaty, with an herbal note. Bob Bofman Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

Familia Cassone 2010 La Florencia Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Char and hickory override fruit on the bouquet, while the palate is full, round and falls into form with time in the glass. Tastes of forward oak and spice along with berry and plum fruit. Toasty and warm on the finish, but oaky and resiny. Bedford International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Pampano 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Fruity and friendly on the nose, with composure and solid aromas. Feels both plump and dry, with toasty black-fruit flavors accented by peppery spice that turns slightly bitter on the finish. Good and dark overall, with limited follow-through on the finish. Five Gold Hands. Best Buy. —M.S. Price: $10 abv: 13.5%

Rio Perdido 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic and unusual for value-priced Malbec, with aromas of blueberry and Middle Eastern spice. Feels chunky yet juicy, with good acidity highlighting lightly herbal flavors of plum and tomato. Meaty, round and solid on the finish, with saucy spiciness. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Ruca Malen 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Smells sort of furry and earthy initially, with notes of graphite and woodspice. Feels narrow and grabby, with pointed acididty framing red plum, cher-

ry and lightly oaky, minty flavors. Fits the definition of good but regular Malbec. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

Salentein 2010 Killka Collection Malbec (Uco Valley). On the nose, there’s an early whiff of nail polish that resolves itself in jammy black fruit aromas. Good on the palate, with just enough acidic grab in front of a full blast of berry flavors and an aftershock of chocolate. Finishes grapy. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

Sur de los Andes 2009 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with aromas of black cherry and waves of resiny oak. Has good body and grabby barrel tannins along with a palate that deals dark berry flavor and even more oakiness. Tastes resiny and saucy on the finish; cleans up as it airs. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $15

Zolo 2008 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Inky and superconcentrated on the bouquet, with grapey fruit notes and density to spare. Feels grabby and angular, with some astringency to the tannins and huge flavors of black plum, blackberry and iodine. Thick and sticky on the finish; ripe to the max. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

Casa de Campo 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky smelling at first but good on the nose thanks to a solid berry core and leathery accents. Feels fresh and pinched, with medicinal flavors matched by equal amounts of red fruit and oak. Finishes clean but short, with decent weight. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

Cueva de las Manos 2010 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Granular and punchy upfront, with heat and animal fur aromas on the nose. Settles with airing, revealing a heavy but solid palate with plenty of oak and candied red-fruit flavors. Falls off on the finish, with mint, resin and herbal notes. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

Doña Silvina 2008 Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and dusty smelling, with black fruit notes, a touch of plastic and mild scratchiness. Feels tight and grating, with red-fruit flavors that are snappy and tempered by sweet oak notes. Finishes scratchy and tannic, with berry, pepper and licorice flavors. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

Espuela del Gaucho 2010 Limited Edition Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Slightly herbal plum and berry aromas come with a pinch of spice and meatiness. Feels medium-bodied and crisp, with juicy red-fruit flavors of plum, tomato and raspberry. Dries out on the finish, where it becomes more herbal and roasted. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Tamarí 2010 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Crusty, rubbery aromas smell a bit burnt, while

leather and berry aromas, rest below the surface. The palate is full, edgy and a little tangy, with red plum, herb and tomato flavors. Mild and saucy tasting on the finish. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Malbec (Mendoza). Opens with minerally, almost metallic aromas, along with rubber and berry mixed in. Feels fresh and ready, with plum, berry and chocolaty flavors. Finishes with a smooth feel, but maybe it could use a bit more cut and tannic structure. A wine that falls squarely in the middle zone. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

Cas’Almare 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Minty on the nose, with hints of cured meat, burnt field and spice. Feels fresh, with medicinal plum flavors and oak taking over after the fruit falls off. Finishes lightly spicy and drying. More balanced and less oaky than the winery’s ’09 reserva. Cas’Almare Wines. —M.S. Price: $15 abv: 14.5%

TintoNegro 2010 Co-Ferment Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery on first take, with sweet chocolate and carob aromas. Feels pretty thick, with a creamy lead into an herbal-tasting palate that’s crowded with oak and milk chocolate flavors. Turns resiny on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

TintoNegro 2010 Uco Valley Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy and jumpy on the nose, with candied red-berry and cherry aromas. Feels resiny, but there’s enough acid to keep it moving forward. Flavors of plum and berry come with a lot of oak and barrel influence. Finishes resiny, with hints of vanilla and a burnt quality. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

Trapiche 2010 Zaphy Malbec (Argentina). Full of red-fruit aromas, particularly plum and cherry. Feels raw, with wild berry, ample oak and a lot of acid-based tang to the palate. Lightly toasty, with a mild cherry flavor to the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Laberinto 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). Strange smelling, with aromas of exotic spices, blueberry and some other notes that don’t come across that well. Feels solid and chunky, with herbal, sweet flavors that culminate in a dry, rubbery, herbal-tasting finish. A.W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Manos Negras 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Smells different than most, with blueberry, carob and exotic sandalwood. Takes a dive on the palate, where it’s sweet, syrupy and flat, almost like prune juice. Along those lines, it tastes pruny, with chocolate on the finish. Struggles to achieve balance. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

Ruca Malen 2010 Yauquén Malbec (Mendoza). Smells unruly, with animal notes, heavy char, rubber and mulchy earth. Gets better with airing, but seems thick on the palate, with stewed berry and mild green notes. Herbal, roasted and sort of weedy on the finish. Has been better in the past. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

Viñas de Vila 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). The grapy nose announces a heavy, flat type of Malbec with intense color but not much in the way of acidic lift or excitement. Feels gummy, with jammy, sweet flavors of blueberry and clove. Stays sweet and sticky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

Caligiore 2009 Family Vineyards Organic Legacy Old Vines Single Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy cherry and cough drop aromas are not convincing. Feels astringent and tastes tart, with sharp but candied cherry, faux oak and milk chocolate flavors. Blends sour notes with sweet oak, all to little avail. Marquee Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

Camino del Inca 2011 Malbec (Cafayate). The bouquet is demanding, with burnt tire rubber, horse, heavy char and muddled black-fruit aromas. Feels closed and tastes buttery and burnt, with barrel char and resin sitting heavily atop herbal berry flavors. A heavily made-up wine. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

Michel Torino 2010 Don David Reserve Malbec (Calchaqui Valley). Burnt and roasted up front, with a leathery nose that doesn’t convey freshness. Feels choppy and acidic, with herbal, semitart flavors of burnt berry fruit. Minty and green on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

Antigua Bodega 2009 Malbec (San Juan). Smells strongly of corn, stalky fruit, herbs and grass. Mouthfeel is not a problem, although it’s a little sticky on the palate. Tastes heavily herbal and green, with an oaky covering. Short, woody and herbal on the finish. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

BONARDA

Lamadrid 2009 Single Vineyard Reserva Bonarda (Agrelo). Big blackberry aromas show very little rusticity. Feels full but smooth and balanced, with a nice mix of wild berry, spice and fine herb flavors. Mellow and not pushy on the finish. Really good for Bonarda. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

Maipe 2010 Reserve Old Vine Bonarda (Mendoza). Clean, pure and uncomplicated on the nose, showing depth and clarity. Smells and tastes much like a good Malbec or Cabernet might; it’s sweet and fruity, with black cherry, pastry, baking spices and a certain rubbery quality that seems to come with WineMag.com | 45

Bonarda. On the money for this variety. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

Sur de los Andes 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). Exotic on the nose, with aromas of raspberry, plum and blueberry. Shows good intensity on the palate, with a solid feel and fresh flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Fresh but smooth on the finish; very good in every way. Winery Direct. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

Alma del Sur 2010 Colección Bonarda (Mendoza). Interesting aromas of graham cracker, pastry, blackberry, dark cherry and tomato all work well together. The palate is full and easy, with some weight to it along with flavors of black plum and berry. Not exuberant on the finish; it ends in mellow, lightly medicinal fashion. Martin Scott Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $10

Las Perdices 2009 Reserva Bonarda (Luján de Cuyo). Concentrated and dark upfront, with black fruit, coffee, chocolate and cheese aromas. Full and extracted in the mouth, as flavors of charred wood, blackberry and black pepper take over. Turns hot and darker on the finish, where bitter chocolate and peppercorn flavors rise up. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Maipe 2011 Andean Culture Bonarda (Mendoza). Red berry, sweet cherry and ripe plum aromas come with a touch of leather. The palate feels a bit sharp and acidic, with tangy, juicy flavors of plum and wild berry as well as some stalkiness. Cleansing and long on the finish thanks to high acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13

Caligiore 2010 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza). A medicinal quality comes at you right away, followed by chocolate-coated cherry, creamy oak and a distant note of paint or chemical. Feels round and voluminous, with minty, rubbery flavors of oaky, berry and chocolate. Finishes dry and oaky, with a buttery aftertaste. Marquee Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

Mi Terruño 2009 Reserve Bonarda (Mendoza). Rubber, plastic and black fruit aromas. Feels fat and buttery, but with a streak of acidity that gives it pulse. Flavors of red berry come with oaky support, and the finish is sweet, oaky and warm. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

Tierra Prometida 2008 Clasico Bonarda (Mendoza). Plum, red berry and wild herb aromas combine to create a briary whole. As it airs, the nose turns lemony and hard, while the mouthfeel is tight and limited, with herbal, saucy, red berry flavors. Tomato and basil notes appear on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

Viñas de Vila 2009 Reserva Bonarda (Mendoza). Smells grassy, jumpy and foxy,

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011

and while it sports a decent feel on the palate, it’s herbal and tomatoey in terms of flavor, with a vegetal undertone. Green and oaky on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

RED BLENDS

Finca Flichman 2008 Dedicado (Mendoza). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Vistalba 2008 Corte A (Mendoza). Beefy black-fruit aromas are inviting for their accents of licorice, coconut and crushed minerals. Feels lush, layered and intense, the perfect framework for lusty blackberry, toast, mineral and espresso flavors. Long, warm and dense on the finish. Drink now through 2016; made from Malbec, Bonarda and Cab Sauvignon. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

Vistalba 2008 Corte B (Mendoza). Approachable, high in quality and made from a mix of Malbec, Cabernet and Bonarda. Smells of lead pencil, blackberry and dark plum. Feels friendly and smooth, with lightly buttered oak leading licorice, black pepper, chocolate and roasted berry flavors. Offers a lot of good things for the price. Drink now–2015. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

O. Fournier 2008 B Crux (Uco Valley). Opens with horsey, leathery aromas that are funky and wild, but are surrounded by solid berry-fruit scents. Picks up steam on the palate, which is easygoing, solidly built and just firm enough. Tastes of blackberry, cola, spice and chocolate, then finishes smooth and creamy. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

Cicchitti 2008 Blend Edición Limitada (Mendoza). An odd blend of Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Merlot that starts out with aromas of bramble, brick dust and baked berries. Feels tannic and grabby initially, before spreading out wide and flat. Tastes stewy and herbal, with chocolate and spice notes. Probably strained and strange for the average consumer. 600 cases made. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. Price: $22 abv: 14%

CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY

Dutton Estate 2010 Dutton Palms Vineyard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The vineyard is in the coolest part of the Green Valley of the Russian River Valley. The wine, which is totally dry, is marked by brilliant acidity and long hangtime flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and kiwi fruit, enriched by barrel fermentation and aging. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Boon Fly’s Hill Chardonnay (Carneros). This is one of the most Chablis-style Chardonnays on the market. It’s bone dry, and has a steely, minerally elegance made complex with layers of pineapples and limes, and even a honeysuckle richness. The oak, interestingly, comes from Hungary. A terrific wine, far from the overoaked, buttered popcorn style so popular now. Production was only 227 cases. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

Dutton Estate 2010 Kyndall’s Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This Chardonnay was blended from several vineyards in Dutton’s extensive portfolio. It’s not only a great example of the art of blending, it’s a fine wine in itself, showing brisk acidity and dryness, with rich, complex orange, Meyer lemon, kiwi fruit, honeysuckle and buttered toast flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $37

Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

Hunnicutt 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Good acidity in this Chardonnay provides a brisk balance to the ripe pineapple, passion fruit, pear and spice flavors. Made in the modern style, it has a minerality that lifts it and provides interest. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Marimar Estate 2009 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

Flora Springs 2010 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

Melville 2010 Clone 76 Inox Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Very acidic, giving the ripe tropical fruit and green pea flavors an almost sparkling spritziness. But very rich and flamboyant and complex. This wine was tasted at just about a year of age, and should calm down by summer 2012. —S.H. Price: $36 abv: 14.5%

Melville 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Acidity and ripe fruit mark this Chardonnay, which is lovely to drink now. Don’t chill it too much, to allow the orange, pineapple and passionfruit flavors to express their nuances. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $26

Robert Young 2009 Estate Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). Sure is easy to like this Chardonnay, with its rich flavors of honey, pineapples, peaches, crême brulée, vanilla and cinnamon spice. It seems almost sweet, but zesty acidity and minerality pull it back into dryness and elegance. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $42

Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). This dry, acidic, minerally Chardonnay brings Burgundy to mind. It has a lot going for it, but is rather tight and angular despite a rich vein of pineapple and lemon drop. Distinguished in its way, it’s a fine wine, at a great price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). Oak dominates this Chardonnay in its buttered toast, caramel and butterscotch flavors. Buried under that are pleasantly ripe pineapples and lemons. The winery suggests it will age through 2020, but that seems doubtful. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

Stonegate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Summerland 2010 Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Acidity is the best thing about this Chardonnay. Without it, the tangerine, apricot and lime flavors, accented by sweet oaky vanilla, would make it a mere fruit bomb. Tartness wakes it all up and makes the finish clean and pure. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $34

Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Made in the popular style, this Chardonnay has flavors of buttered toast, pineapple jam, vanilla and cinnamon spice. At the age of three-plus years, it’s soft and mellow. Not likely to improve, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Cakebread 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Rich and oaky, with pineapple jam, tangerine juice, buttered toast and vanilla spice flavors. It’s a big, opulent wine, but a little in your face. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $37

Deep Sea 2009 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Made in a bone dry, acidic style, what this Chardonnay lacks in richness it makes up for in elegance. Fans of sweet, buttery Chards won’t like it, but true aficionados will appreciate the austere citrus and mineral flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $21

Bonterra 2010 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). Bonterra excels with this leaner, lighter, brighter form of Chardonnay. Made out of organically grown grapes, it’s crisp as a green apple, with just a trace of butterscotch on the otherwise lemony finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

J. Wilkes 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Lush, creamy and smooth, with buttered toast, lemon custard, crême brulée and spice flavors. Maybe a little overworked, but it satisfies Chardonnay cravings. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). New oak sticks out on this Chardonnay, with buttered toast and vanilla dominating the tropical fruit, orange and Meyer lemon flavors. It’s finely constructed, with deft acidity and a stony minerality. Drink now–2013. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2010 DeMayo Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Director’s Cut Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made in the popular style, with flavors of buttered popcorn, toast, honey, pineapple and vanilla. Tastes rather sweet, but brisk acidity helps maintain balance. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé Chardonnay (California). Lots to like in this smooth, polished Chardonnay. It shows plenty of ripe pineapple, peach and pear flavors, with overtones of vanilla and buttered toast. Good price for the quality. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

Sarah’s Vineyard 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Seems like it might have been better a year ago. Although you’ll find rich pineapple, lemon drop and butterscotch flavors, they’re getting a little tired, and the oak is starting to dominate. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

Tortoise Creek 2010 Jam’s Blend Chardonnay (Lodi). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.3% Price: $11

apple fruit. Brisk acidity and a tangy minerality add layers of appeal. —S.H. Price: $18 abv: 14.1%

Black Box 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey County). At the equivalent of about $6 a bottle, this is a good buy. It’s made in the popular Chardonnay style, with pineapple, peach and spice flavors accented by smoky oak. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

Concannon 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). A ripe Chardonnay, big and full, with fistfuls of oak influence and a spoonful of sugar to help it go down. Find some rich crab cakes in a creamy sauce and enjoy. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $20

De Loach 2010 OFS Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). New oak accounts for only 30% of the barrel regimen, but it dominates this Chardonnay, with buttered toast, vanilla and caramel flavors. Fortunately there’s also strong pineapple, Asian pear and apricot fruit, but the oak is too powerful. —S.H. Price: $30 abv: 14.5%

Garnet 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Butterscotch and pineapple and peach jam flavors mark this Chardonnay. Fortunately, it’s balanced with crisp acidity and a certain minerality. It’s an obvious crowd pleaser, and would score higher except for the seemingly sweet finish. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Take a few bucks off the price, and this would be a good value. As things stand, this Chardonnay, which is a blend of Santa Clara Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains fruit, is fairly standard. It’s dry and crisp, with pleasant lemon-custard flavors that turn a little unripe on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Black Stallion 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Dry, minerally and acidic, this Chardonnay offers pineapple, lemon and mineral flavors. It’s a food-friendly wine that won’t compete with what you eat. At this price, it’s a good restaurant wine, and easy to find, with 7,500 cases produced. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Bardessono 2010 Chardonnay (Knights Valley). Not much going on in this heavy Chardonnay beyond the oak. There are modest pineapple and peach flavors, but they wash away quickly. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Overworked and oaky, with vanilla, buttered toast and sweet caramel flavors dominating everything else. Buried beneath are pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Ruby Hill’s Reserve has the requisite pear, lemon and tropical fruit so many Chardonnay lovers adore, and its barrel influence is very strong, both in its richness and creamy body. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Summerland 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Oak stands out, bringing buttered toast and butterscotch candy flavors that dominate the underlying pineapple, lemon drop and green

Castle Rock 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Too oaky and forward in tropical fruit flavors. Takes the popular style and exaggerates it. It will nonetheless appeal to lots of people. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Stonegate 2010 Collection Chardonnay (California). Toasty oak, pineapples, oranges and vanilla combine in this Chardonnay to make it an easy-drinking everyday sipper. It seems little sweet, like jam. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Whetstone 2009 El Pajaro Chardonnay (Carneros). An eccentric Chardonnay, not at all like the vast majority. With its apricot jam, lychee, sautéed banana, honey and crême brulée flavors, it’s an outlier. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 WineMag.com | 47

Sebastiani 2009 Chardonnay (Carneros). Too sweet, like pineapple and pear juice sweetened with white sugar. The underlying wine is pretty good, with decent acidity and a clean minerality. But that sweetness is over the top. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

Foyt Family 2010 No. 67 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Simple and soft, with sugary sweet apricot and orange flavors that turn cloying on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

Pomar Junction 2009 Espiritu Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Sweet and simple, with orange and vanilla cream flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

Sebastiani 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Made in the popular style, this Chardonnay features buttered popcorn, pineapple jam and buttered toast flavors. Turns cloyingly sweet on the finish. —S.H. Price: $13 abv: 13.5%

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Dutton Estate 2010 Cohen Vineyard Dutton Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This wine saw no oak barrel aging, but it’s so rich and satisfyingly clean, it’s probably better off not being weighed down by caramel and buttered toast. Brimming with brisk acidity, it shows brilliantly pure citrus fruit, tart gooseberry, Asian pear, green apple, mineral and white pepper flavors. The vineyard is in Green Valley. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $22

Deep Sea 2009 Coquina Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Grande Valley). A delicious Sauvignon Blanc, really fine. It showcases how well this cool little corner of Monterey County, with its stony soils, ripens white wines. Brisk in acidity and laden with minerals, it offers rich flavors of citrus fruits, white flowers, white currants and spices. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $32

Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Anderson Valley). Anderson Valley is better known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but the cool climate is also good for Sauvignon Blanc. Foursight’s 2010 is a delightful wine, vibrant in citrus, tropical fruit and peach flavors, and there’s no oak to interfere with its purity. With a finish that seems just a little sweet, it’s a fine companion for Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

Raymond 2010 Reserve Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this wine is all about fresh, vibrant fruit. Limes, Meyer lemons, gooseberries, Asian pears and something tropical, like papayas, all mingle together. Aging on the lees, which is a popular intervention in many unoaked white wines, gives addition-

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

al notes of cream and sourdough. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Price: $15 abv: 14.8%

Carica 2010 Kick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). A very nice Sauvignon, easy to drink, and showing lots of style and elegance. Bone dry and zesty in acidity, it has citrus, tropical fruit and white pepper flavors, with a stimulating touch of tart gooseberry. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

Dutton Estate 2010 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). This is Dutton Estate’s unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. It did not go through the malolactic fermentation, but it started as very ripe grapes, so what you get is pure citrus, Asian pear, white peach and green apple flavor, zesty and clean in acidity, with slight a sweetness in the finish. Nice with Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese fare. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

Cakebread 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). With bright, zesty acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc is clean and vibrant in orange, pineapple, lime and gooseberry flavors. If only it finished drier, it would be superb. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

Flora Springs 2010 Soliloquy Sauvignon Blanc (Oakville). This proprietary bottling from Flora Springs has been around for a long time. It’s a good wine, satisfying in citrus, peach and spice flavors, leading to a clean, fruity-sweet finish. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Jacob Franklin 2010 Massa Ranch Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The vineyard is in Yountville, and the wine shows plenty of the zesty acidity that marks this cool portion of Napa Valley. The wine also exhibits ripe flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons, kiwi fruit and sweet limes. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

J Ludlow 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Brisk in acidity, this everyday Sauvignon Blanc has ripe, bright flavors of tangerines, peaches and pineapples. It’s a good by-the-glass wine for restaurants. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

J Ludlow 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a good, everyday Sauvignon Blanc. It’s sweet and jammy in pineapples, grapefruits, peaches and tangerines, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

Lola Kay 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.1% Price: $16

Sea Fog 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A touch of oak adds some creaminess, but this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is marked mainly by fresh fruit flavors of lemons, limes and oranges. It’s zesty in acidity, but could be a little drier. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

VIOGNIER

Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Viognier (Santa Barbara County). Despite lots of ripe peach, white flower and spice flavors, this Viognier is a little uneven. It’s too sweet, almost a dessert wine, and yet there’s a green pea, vegetal note. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $26

Whetstone 2009 Catie’s Corner Vineyard Viognier (Russian River Valley). Toasted oak dominates everything in this Viognier, which features charred wood, buttered toast, butterscotch and vanilla aromas and flavors. The fruit is pretty buried. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

Pomar Junction 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles). Sweet, soft and simple to the point of insipid, with jellied apricot, orange and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

WHITE BLENDS

Venge 2010 Spettro (Napa Valley). Cabernet specialist Venge tinkers with white blends under the Spettro designation, with inconsistent results. This 2010 is mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, with a splash of Chenin Blanc. It’s a good, sound white wine, dry and crisp in acidity, with mineral-infused pear, citrus fruit and apricot flavors. No oak is evident. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

Sarah’s Vineyard 2010 Estate Côte de Madrone Blanc (Santa Clara Valley). This Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc blend is very rich and fruity. It has all kinds of fruity, flowery, spicy and toasty flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. A nice, easy-drinking alternative to a creamy Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

Turn 4 2010 White (California). Sweet and forward in pineapple, peach and lime flavors, this is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It has good acidity and a clean, spicy finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

OTHER WHITE WINES

J. Wilkes 2007 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). Very rich and opulent, with maybe a touch of botrytis giving the apricot, orange and buttercream flavors a honeyed decadence. Bright acidity keeps it all clean and balanced. Showing exceptionally well for a white wine at 4½ years of age. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

Coghlan 2009 Tourmaline Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 13.6% Price: $24

Cutruzzola 2010 Riven Rock Vineyard Riesling (San Luis Obispo County). What a lovely Riesling. The grapes were grown near the coast, and you can taste the zesty natural acidity, which gives a lift to the orange, lime, mineral and honeysuckle flavors. It’s a little sweet, but the finish is dry and spicy. Great to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

Manzoni 2010 North Highlands Cuvée Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rich doesn’t begin to describe this Pinot Gris. It’s explosive in orange and apricot jam flavors, with vanilla and buttered toast layers. There’s a fat, oily texture that adds interest to a variety that can be simple. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

Tangent 2010 Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley). With no oak to interfere with the fruit, this wine shows flashy tangerine, pineapple, Meyer lemon and tart lime flavors that are bone dry, and brightened by Edna Valley acidity. It’s savory, refreshing and frankly delicious. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

Bailiwick 2010 Vermentino (California). Basically dry, this Vermentino is crisp in acidity and forward in lemon, lime and tangerine fruit. It’s a nice, easy drinking wine to try as a switch from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

SPARKLING WINES

One Hope 2009 Two Pisces Vineyard Reserve Blanc de Noir (Sonoma Coast). It’s easy to like this smooth, clean sparkling wine, which hails from the Petaluma Gap, an increasingly important area in the cool, foggy south of the Russian River Valley. It’s very rich in raspberries and strawberries, with notes of sweet vanilla and yeast. The mouthfeel is smooth and elegant. —S.H. Price: $45 abv: 12.4%

One Hope 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Reserve Blanc de Blancs (Sonoma Coast). A little rough in the mouth, with a scoury feeling. But it’s extraordinarily rich in orange and lime flavors, with the vanilla and yeasty dough accents you want in a nice sparkling wine. —S.H. abv: 12.4% Price: $45

Schramsberg 2004 Extra Brut (North Coast). Extra brut means that this Pinot Noirbased bubbly is drier than Schramsberg’s regular brut. Even at the age of more than seven years, it’s aggressive in bubbly acidity, with a scoury mouthfeel framing ripe raspberry and lime flavors. Feels austere and hard, but who knows? Could surprise. A gamble if you want to cellar it. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $70

Iron Horse 2007 Chinese Cuvée (Green Valley). Iron Horse crafted this brut, which has a gorgeous red and yellow label, for the Chinese market. It’s similar to their other bruts, dry and rich in lime, strawberry and yeasty flavors, although it’s softer, which may reflect what Iron Horse knows about the Chinese palate. The price also seems to reflect what Iron Horse believes the Chinese market will bear. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $98

CABERNETS & BLENDS

Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Strong Oakville tannins mark this 100% Cabernet, although they’re so ripely sweet, you can negotiate them now, especially considering the opulence of the fruit. Blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate just begin to describe the flavors. They’re as sweet as a dessert pastry, but the finish is utterly dry, a magic trick the best red wines pull off. Beautiful now after decanting, and should develop through 2018. —S.H. Price: $75 abv: 14.7%

thentic wine of place, it deserves a place on the best tables. —S.H. Price: $62 abv: 14.8%

Volker Eisele Family Estate 2008 Alexander Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

Bennett Lane 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A distinguished Cabernet, rich in fruit and impeccably oaked. But it’s young. There’s a fresh, jammy taste to the blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate, and the tannins are brisk and fuzzy. Don’t drink it until at least 2015, and it should develop for years afterward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

Flora Springs 2009 Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see page 4. Price: $100 abv: 14.4%

Hunnicutt 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from 100% Cabernet, this wine hits all the right notes. It’s fantastically rich and ripe, with flavors of sweet cherries, cassis and dark chocolate, while oak brings delicious notes of buttered toast. The tannins are complex, but so soft you can enjoy this wine now, although it should develop for at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $75 Venge 2009 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

Clos du Val 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). One thing you can depend on concerning Clos du Val’s Cabernets is that they’re elegant. The winery resolutely refuses to kowtow to the modern style of ultraripe, extracted fruit, high alcohol and massive oak. This lovely Cab, which contains a drop of Merlot, defines their style, and is a joy to drink. It has rich, complex cherry and blackberry flavors, flecked with earth and herbs, and is just beginning a long journey. Now–2021, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Price: $75 abv: 13.5%

Pestoni Family 2007 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). A terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, dramatically structured in smooth mountain tannins, with lush, complex blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors. Satisfies on every level you could ask of Napa Valley. Good as it is, it will age over a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

Robert Young 2008 Scion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Another terrific Scion from Robert Young. Blended this year from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it’s rich in blackberry and cherry fruit, with caramel from oak barrels. Feels soft and gentle in the mouth, in the way of Alexander Valley Cabernet. An au-

Mario Perelli-Minetti 2005 Miriam Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Shows the lush richness, dryness and complexity you want in a fine Napa Valley Cabernet. At more than six years of age, the tannins are just beginning to resolve, although they’re still pretty fierce. But the flavors are beautiful, showing classic blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, plums and cedar. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 Rodney Strong 2008 Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 5. abv: 15% Price: $55

Rutherford Grove 2008 Pestoni Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). A beautiful Cabernet, dry and rich, with wonderful tannins. They’re firm, yet soft and sweet, an apparent contradiction the palate loves. Shows near perfect ripeness, an impressive range of blackberries, plums and cassis, and an earthy herbaceousness. May be a little too young for proper enjoyment, so give it a few years in the cellar. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

Atlas Peak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.6% Price: $86

Flora Springs 2009 Trilogy (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

Rubissow 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Seems to have hardly aged over nearly six years, still showing massive blackberry, cherry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors, sweet and fresh. Lots of oak, too, bringing even more caramelized sweetness. Yet the finish is dry, long and spicy. Made from 100% Cabernet, but sometimes these wines surprise. Give it another six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $125

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Clone 7 2008 Reserve Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: NA Price: $20

Armanino Family Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Marked by acidity, strong tannins and powerful fruit, this Cabernet is a three-way playoff. The fruit is the obvious early victor, flashy in plums, blackberries, cassis and cedar. But the astringency makes it difficult to enjoy now. Cellar for six years, and see what happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $95

Rubissow 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Cabernet simply doesn’t get richer or riper than this. It’s a massive explosion of sweet cherry and blackberry jam, cassis, dark chocolate and caramelized oak, wrapped into firm tannins. Tastes like a candy bar now, nowhere near ready to drink. Hold until 2015, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Madden Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

Atlas Peak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

Bennett Lane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a style to appeal to the popular taste for Cabernet, and succeeds wildly. It’s delicious, offering waves of blackberries, cherries and plums, wrapped in firm, ripe tannins and finished with smoky oak. No mere fruit bomb, it’s a complex wine with a long, spicy finish. Drink now–2014. —S.H. Price: $55 abv: 14.5%

Buehler 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

Jacob Franklin 2007 Hoffman Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in the modern style, this Cabernet is dark in color, soft in acids and tannins, and enormously fruity. The flavors of blackberries, blueberries, mocha and roasted nuts suggest sweetened granola candy. It’s a flashy wine that impresses for its sheer power. Drink now-2015. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

Occasio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). For full review see page

Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). Hawk and Horse have managed to make a delicious Cabernet from a challenging vintage. Dark, earthy flavors of cedar, spice and blackberry, are enriched with plenty of smoothness and structure to give it that extra something special. Made by winemakers Dick Peterson and Scott Harvey from a certified-Biodynamic vineyard with rocky red soil at 2,200 feet above sea level. —V.B. Price: $65 abv: 14.1%

Rubissow 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). At the age of more than four years, this 100% Cabernet remains an immature clash of fruit, oak and tannins. Everything sticks out, especially the massive blackberry and cassis flavors. The oak is sweet and butterscotchy on the finish. With a superb structure, it seems like an ideal cellar candidate, except for a touch of bitter raisin in the finish. Hard to predict its future. Try in 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Price: $44

Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Made from 100% Cabernet, this is a fine everyday wine. It’s dry, full-bodied and satisfying in blackberry, cola and currant flavors, with a nice kiss of oak. The alcohol level is nice and low. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

Foyt Family 2009 No. 72 Meritage (Sonoma County). A nice dry wine to drink now. It’s soft and velvety in the mouth, with flavors of blackberries, plums, anise and cedar. Blended with a little Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s brightened by a bite of acidity. —S.H. Price: $32 abv: 14.5%

Venge 2009 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A tremendous wine. Made from 100% Cabernet and raised for nearly two years in 40% new French oak, it defines the ripe, hedonistic Napa style. Yet it’s no mere fruit bomb, offering a tobaccoey earthiness to the berries. A touch of raisins and heat in the finish seems to limit ageability, though, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

Rubissow 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

page 9. abv: 15.2%

Fazeli Cellars 2008 Khayyam Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see

Frias 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Acidity hits the palate like a shard of glass, immediately followed by rich, concentrated flavors of blackberries, cassis and spices. The tannins are strong, too. All the parts simply have not come together. Will it age well? It’s not a slam dunk. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Rodney Strong 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 15% Price: $45

Price: $36

Silver Oak 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots of nice blackberry, cassis, plum and new oak flavors in this dry, tannic Cabernet. It hews to an old-fashioned style, with an earthiness that suggests time in the cellar. Try after 2014. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $100

Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots of ripe blackberry and cherry fruit in this Cabernet, accented with notes of licorice and oak. It’s a good wine, full-bodied, tannic and dry. Very good now, especially after a brief decant, but too dependent on fruit for a higher score, and doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H. Price: $45 abv: 14.5%

8. abv: 13.5%

in some way, yet intensely dark, brooding and velvety. —V.B. Price: $35 abv: 14.5%

Coghlan 2009 Spessartite on Quartz Fusion (Santa Ynez Valley). Half Merlot and half Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot saves the day, rescuing the underripe Cab with rich flavors of cherries and red plums. Oak adds the usual notes of sweet buttered toast and spice. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $47

Concannon 2008 Mother Vine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This wine adds to the growing case to be made for Cabernet Sauvignon in Livermore Valley. Mother Vine Reserve is a smallish offering for Concannon, loaded with black olive, tea and black pepper. It’s Cab Franc-esque

Ideology Cellars 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With sweet blackberry, cassis, anise and mocha flavors, this Cabernet is a flashy wine, but you’ll find some overripe, raisiny notes toward the finish. Drink now before it goes downhill. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

J Ludlow 2009 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Here’s a softly smooth, polished Cabernet for drinking now. Blended with 20% Merlot, it has approachable flavors of berries, mocha, cassis and toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

Jacob Franklin 2007 #50 Mon Chou (Napa Valley). Marked by enormously ripe, powerful fruit flavors, this wine explodes with jammy blackberries, cherries and red plums. Oak adds even richer notes of toast and sweet caramel. Drink this deliciously soft wine now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Lots of ripe, pleasurable flavors of blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate, plums and oak in this dry, nicely structured Cabernet. It’s pretty tannic, though, with a tough astringency, and doesn’t have the fruit to outlast the tannins over time, so give it a decant and drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

Maroon 2009 Maroon Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sweet and lush, showing ripe blackberry, plum, cassis, raisin

and oak flavors. It’s one of those wines that just feels fine in the mouth, satisfying your basic Cabernet craving. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

The Grade 2008 Winfield Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). This 100% Cabernet was grown in a Calistoga vineyard. It was aged in 40% new oak. At the age of 3½ years, it’s still quite tannic, even a bit rustic, with zippy acidity and fresh, jammy blackberry and black cherry flavors. Hard to say where it’s going, but try aging it for 5–6 years and see what happens. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $80

Tortoise Creek 2009 Cherokee Lane Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

Beringer 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Feels rough in the mouth, with jagged tannins framing ripe, extracted blackberry jam and oak flavors. A little rustic and fruitysweet now, but could gain traction with a few years in the cellar. —S.H. Price: $45 abv: 14.5%

Black Box 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Quite a good Cabernet, especially at this price. They blended some other varieties, including Zinfandel, Malbec and Petite Sirah, which bring extra layers. It’s a fine everyday wine—fruity, spicy, fullbodied and dry. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Black Label Diamond Collection 1910 Type Claret Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A rich, lusty wine, dry and easy to like for its array of blackberry, cherry, anise and sandalwood flavors. Made from the traditional Bordeaux varieties, based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it really pleases the palate. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

J Ludlow 2009 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley). Mostly Merlot, with some Cabernet Sauvignon, this blend starts out a bit angular, so give it some air before drinking. Although it’s not an ager, it shows pleasantly ripe blackberry, cherry, mocha, herb and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

J Ludlow 2008 Kemsley 1550 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Fresh and jammy in raspberries, cherries and blackberries, this wine trades complexity for sheer fruity power and lusciousness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

Lava Cap 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). A very soft-textured Cab, unusual for its high-elevation origins, with sweet red fruit and dark plum nestled around a trace of chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

Valley Legend 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). With a soft mouthfeel and upfront cherry, blueberry and blackberry flavors, this Cabernet puts all its chips on sheer deliciousness. It’s a winner, but not an ager. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $60

Burgess 2008 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made from estate grapes, this blend of all five Bordeaux varieties shows the hard tannins and minerality that characterize Howell Mountain reds. However, it’s surprisingly soft and its blackberries and currants are modest in scale, making it a sound wine for drinking now, but not for aging. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

Cakebread 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Oak dominates this wine, with toasty charcoal aromas and flavors. The underlying wine seems pretty simple, with blackberry fruit flavors. Doesn’t seem capable of aging, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

ecoVINO NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). Encased in a lightweight, eco-friendly AstraPouch, this easy-to-share Cabernet is full of bright, cherry-fruit flavors and clove. It’s simply drinkable and a good way to go for picnics, tailgates or when you just want a small pour. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $19/1.5 L

Heron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). A simple, straightforward Cab. It shows herb and green pepper amid clove and currant and it’s low enough in alcohol not to mess you up. A perfectly fine everyday wine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

Hesperian 2007 Harry’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The vineyard is in Coombsville, a cool part of the valley that recently received official recognition as an AVA. The wine, which was made from 100% Cabernet, is soft, sweet and oaky, showing simple blackberry, cherry and anise flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $70

Hesperian 2007 Muscatine Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Almost black in color and still very tannic, even at more than four years of age, this Cabernet is dry and soft in blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate and oak flavors. Despite being made from 100% Cabernet, its aging possibilities seem limited. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

Hesperian 2007 Tom’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Ripeness was no problem during this fantastic vintage. The wine is rich and satisfying in black cherries, currants, cola, spicy mushu plum sauce and sandalwood flavors. There are some irregularities, though, that limit the point score, such as excessive softness, out of place acidity and a candied sweetness on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Hesperian 2007 Tony’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Soft

and melted in the mouth, this 100% Cabernet has deep flavors of blackberries, currants and minerals. It’s delicious, yet the structure is soft yet weirdly acidic. Doesn’t seem like an ager. —S.H. Price: $70 abv: 14.8%

J Ludlow 2008 Jane (Santa Ynez Valley). A Bordeaux blend based on Merlot, this is a pretty good wine for drinking now. It’s soft and fruity, with cherry, mocha, spice and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

Perry Creek 2008 Altitude: 2401 Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). Fair Play-based Perry Creek’s Cab has high toned blue and red fruit and is tamely structured for being from high-elevation vineyards. Its finish is sweetly floral. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

Q 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A standard Cabernet, dry and tannic. The best thing is the deep core of blackberry, currant, mineral and spice flavors. Drink now–2014. —S.H. Price: $14 abv: 13.5%

Salvatore Principe 2010 Maestro Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Rich, mountainous yet velvety, this affordable Cab offers boysenberry, blackberry and green pepper, and a whiff of baked bread. Perfect for filling people’s glasses up at a party. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Beringer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Tastes harsh and tannic, with extracted blackberry fruit that’s so ripe, it veers into sweet raisins. Pretty rustic, but gets the Cabernet job done. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

Coghlan 2009 Amethyst Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Shows the difficulties of making Cabernet succeed in this Santa Barbara County inland valley. It’s awkward, with sweet blackberry and bell pepper flavors swamped with oak. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $54

Concannon 2007 Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). There’s tobacco and chocolate throughout this highend Cab offering from Concannon. Maybe it’s the vintage, maybe it’s the time in bottle, but the wine’s complexity appears limited. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

EOS 2009 French Connection (Paso Robles). Ripe and jammy, with blackberry, coffee, currant and cedar flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. It’s a bit rustic. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

Judd’s Hill 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Direct and fruity, with blackberry and blueberry flavors, wrapped into rugged tannins. Finishes a little sweet. Drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $45 WineMag.com | 51

One Hope 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Very ripe and fruity, like the essence of blackberry and cherry jam in liquid form, with a sprinkle of anise, pepper, cocoa and cinnamon. Delicious, yes, but rather sweet and simple. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

Sebastiani 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A sound Cabernet, fruitforward and somewhat one-dimensional, with cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit. Oak adds sweet notes of caramel. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Stonegate 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A solid effort, fruity in blackberries, currants and oak, with a smooth mouthfeel. Not especially complex, but a polished wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

Summerland 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). A soft and simple Cabernet, with jammy blackberry, currant and sweet oak flavors. The finish is long and spicy. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $24

Tedeschi Family 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tastes tired, with dried out tannins framing blackberry and oak flavors. Interesting, but catch it now before it goes further downhill. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $58

Tedeschi Family 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At the age of more than seven years, this wine is getting tired. It’s drying out and softening, with mellow tannins and raisiny flavors that testify to the heat of the vintage. Drink up. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $58

Castle Rock 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Simple and dry, this Cabernet has modest blackberry, tea and oak flavors. With its firm tannins, it gets the basic Cabernet job done. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Pomar Junction 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet and high in alcohol, with candied berry flavors and an unripe hint of vegetables. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $34

Stonegate 2010 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A hard wine to like. It’s o.k. for parties and such, but is pretty simple and sweet. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

OTHER RED BLENDS

Bennett Lane 2008 Maximus (Napa Valley). This is one of the best red wines at this price in California. A Bordeaux blend with a splash of Syrah, it’s so rich and opulent, it just dazzles from start to finish. Floods the mouth with sweet cherries, rasp52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

berries, milk chocolate and red licorice, yet gets structure from firm tannins and bracing acidity. Lives up to its name, a Cabernet-based wine to feast on with your favorite foods. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Price: $35 abv: 14.5%

La Clarine Farm 2010 Piedi Grandi (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank Beckmeyer goes where his vinous muses take him and this new wine of his is a perfect example of his “why not” attitude. It contains 56% Nebbiolo from the Sumu Kaw Vineyard as well as 30% Syrah from the same, 9% Mourvèdre, 2.5% Viognier and 2.5% Roussanne. It’s jam-packed in a lilting way with fresh, bright strawberry and intense aromas of perfume and freshly picked herbs. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Turnabout’s (Fair Play). Cedarville’s ode to Priorat, this is a mix of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The three get along swimmingly, amusingly mixing into a triad of dark blackberry, dark licorice and dark chocolate. The rich texture is on the mark, and the wine provides just the right heft for any spicy, brawny meal. —V.B. Price: $39 abv: 14.9%

McCay Cellars 2008 Paisley (Lodi). McCay is a producer to watch in Lodi and this wine is a perfect example of why. A blend of four different Zinfandels and Petite Sirah, it opens with a nose of baked blackberry clafouti with a bit of hazelnut and almond, a still-tight wine that with air shows a ton of structure and layered tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

Occasio 2009 Sotto Voce (Livermore Valley). Winemaker John Kinney blends 50% Cabernet Sauvignon from Galles Vineyard with 50% Del Arroyo Vineyard Petite Sirah, trying to take advantage of the Cab’s floral, herbal notes and the Petite’s concentration and wall of tannins. He has largely succeeded. This dark-black wine is very much full of intense cherry and structured tannins and leathery spice. Petite Sirah lovers will particularly swoon. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

Paraduxx 2008 Blue Wing Teal (Napa Valley). This blend, which is mainly Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, is robust. It’s a trattoria or bistro wine, dry, tannic and spicy, with earthy flavors. Drink now with rich foods to tease out the berry fruit. —S.H. Price: $48 abv: 14.6%

Sebastiani 2008 Secolo (Sonoma County). Made mostly with Bordeaux varieties based on Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dash of Syrah, this is a fine wine. It’s dry, full-bodied and packed with blackberry, cassis, bacon and spice flavors, leading to a long, impressive finish. Give it a decant and enjoy as it warms in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 Cabot Vineyards 2007 Tributary (Humboldt County). A concoction of 66% Zinfandel, 33% Syrah and 1% Viognier that’s thick in tannins, meat and dusty earth, or is it earthy dust? The black licorice is mighty memorable. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $22

Borra 2009 Fusion (Lodi). Fusion blends 79% Syrah, 15% Petite Sirah, 5% Zinfandel and 1% Alicante Bouschet a delicious case in point. Gamy, with flavors of dark earth, thick blackberry jam and dark plum, it’s the tobacco kicker on the finish that’ll bring you back. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $19

Cabot Vineyards 2007 Confluence (Humboldt County). This blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Merlot has a fruity nose, the Syrah’s leathery-ness is quite strong, surrounded by raspberry sweetness and red cherry from the Cab and Merlot. Although it’s been in bottle some time, the finish is grippy and strongly tobacco-infused. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

Fazeli Cellars 2008 Yalda (Temecula Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.3% Price: $48

Lola Kay 2010 Proprietary Red Wine (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Rodrigue Molyneaux 2009 Il Segreto Red Wine (Livermore Valley). A rich, earthy blend of half Barbera, half Zinfandel that tastes light at first, earthy with raspberry and cherry tones. On the finish, it gets darker, its spicy, dark fruit tones memorably bound in a wall of leather and tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Grapeful Red (Livermore Valley). A miracle for Grateful Dead fans who have matured into wine, there’s lots to like in this red blend that’s got bright, friendly cherry fruit, a lick of spice and surprising sophistication. It’s medium in weight, with a shock of silky berry fruit on the finish. The blend is 60% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, 11% Barbera and 6% Sangiovese. Pair it with mushroom pizza or burgers. Jerry would approve. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Red (Amador County). A dark, brooding showcase of many of Shake Ridge Vineyards’s finest varieties mixed into one inviting bottle. With 31% Syrah, 28% Primitivo, 18% Petite Sirah, 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Malbec and 6% Merlot, this wine has baked plum and dark bright cherry predominantly, followed by a grip of tobacco and cinnamon spice. Have it with roasted meat and potatoes. —V.B. Price: $28 abv: 14.5%

Borra NV Lot 09 47.5 Degree Limited Release (Lodi). Borra is going old-school here, making the wine nonvintage and putting 10% each of Syrah and Mourvedre into Petite Sirah. Smelling of freshly baked bread, the wine is full of structured red fruit, while its tannins are soft and finish is easygoing. A fine bottle for rustic fare. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Director’s Cut Cinema (Sonoma County). Made from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah, it’s an easy drinking wine despite the firm tannins. Shows lush, ripe blackberry, black currant, raspberry, cola and spice flavors, with a dry finish. Ready now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Pomar Junction 2009 Train Wreck (Paso Robles). It’s soft and sweet and tastes like prune juice and crushed black pepper. The blend is based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $48

MERLOT

Gnarly Head 2010 Authentic Red (Lodi). The easy-to-find Gnarly Head, a blend of 50% Zinfandel, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petite Sirah and 3% Syrah, is young and ready to drink. Its fruity nose and peppery spice tmakes it a full-blown crowd pleaser ready for backyard barbecues. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Murrieta’s Well 2009 The Spur (Livermore Valley). Medium weight and easygoing, this blend of 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot, 7% Cab Franc, 6% Petite Sirah and 4% Merlot has modest tannins and cranberry flavors and will both please a crowd and pair with a wide range of foods. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

D’Anbino 2007 Quadraphonic (Paso Robles). Made from traditional Bordeaux varieties plus Syrah, this is a soft, simple, fruity wine. The raspberry, cherry, cola and spice flavors finish a bit sweet. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $28

Hunnicutt 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Grown in the cool Coombsville area, this fruitforward 100% Merlot has considerable charm. Dominated by rich flavors of cherry tart, blueberries, anise and butterscotch, it’s a softly tannic wine to drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

Rutherford Grove 2008 Estate Merlot (Rutherford). If you think you don’t like Merlot, try this one. It shows classic Napa Valley structure, with smooth, firm tannins and seductive flavors of sweet cherries, plums and currants. Delicious now with a good steak. —S.H. Price: $32 abv: 15.1%

Black Box 2009 Merlot (California). Blended with a little Syrah, Petite Sirah and Sangiovese, this Merlot in a big box is clearly a terrific value. It’s so lush and delicious in berries and spices, it’s crazy that the price works out to $6.25 for a regular bottle. With production over 200,000 cases, it’s a testament to the art of blending. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

DC Flynt MW Selections 2009 First Timer (California). This is a softly delicious red wine. It’s strong and jammy in raspberries, cherries and milk chocolate, and is a little sweet, with a spicy finish. Nice barbecue wine. Mainly Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and a few others. Best Buy.—S.H. abv: NA Price: $10 Colby Red 2010 Red (California). This blend of five varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, is soft and sweet. Call it bistro style. It’s jammy in cherries, licorice and mocha. Proceeds from the wine’s sales go to heart disease research. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

MICA Cellars 2009 CFM Jolon Vineyard (San Antonio Valley). A field blended red wine of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc and 33% Merlot. There’s red cherry and herbal stuff going on, but the wine also lacks texture and depth. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

Pomar Junction 2010 Brooster Fighting Red (Paso Robles). Too soft in structure, and sweet, too, like berry fruit concentrate. Fans of sweet, simple red wines will like this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $18

D’Anbino 2007 Orchestration (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, hot and underripe, with vegetal flavors. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

Cakebread 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Smooth, sweet in fruit and easy to like. With its jammy flavors of blackberries and mocha, it’s delicious, although it would benefit from greater complexity and not so much reliance on sheer intensity and oak. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $54 Cabot Vineyards 2007 Merlot (Humboldt County). This is a confounding wine in many ways, one that could have easily scored higher, or scored lower. It starts with an almost alarming taste of vanilla and cherry coke and a slight bite of alcohol, but over time, got much more interesting. Finally, it turned earthy with pleasant hits of olive and caramel competing for dominance. —V.B. Price: $22 abv: 15.5%

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 Crown Block Merlot (Livermore Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Middle Ridge 2008 Reserve Merlot (Temecula Valley). A light, easy-drinking Merlot that spent two months in new French oak and otherwise speaks of dark plums and earth. Some bottle variation; two bottles tasted. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $42

Oberon 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A sound, likeable Merlot, whose fruity richness, soft tannins and relatively modest price make it a good

buy. It’s forward in blackberry jam, cassis, red licorice and smoky oak flavors. —S.H. Price: $22 abv: 13.7%

Amizetta 2009 Terraced Hillside Estate Merlot (Napa Valley). Rugged in the mouth, with edgy tannins, this Merlot also features ripe berrycherry fruit that seems a little sweet. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2009 Merlot (Contra Costa County). Hannah Nicole’s Merlot is one of its better wines, tasting of red plum and vanilla-laced toasted oak, its tannins grippy, with plenty of dried herb flavors in the background. Smooth and big. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

Raymond 2008 Reserve Selection Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a good Merlot for the price, showing black cherry, prune, unsweetened chocolate and herb flavors, wrapped into smooth but firm tannins. Production is 6,000 cases. —S.H. Price: $23 abv: 14.5%

Yorkville Cellars 2009 Rennie Vineyard Merlot (Yorkville Highlands). Made from organic grapes, Yorkville’s light-bodied Merlot is dry and herbal, with cedar in spades rounded out by elegant plum and chocolate softness. This vintage has 10% Cabernet Sauvignon as well, and would match well with lighter meats, like chicken. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

Brass Tacks 2009 Merlot (Central Coast). An inexpensive Merlot that’s herbal. It also shows cranberry and menthol amid a light toasting of oak. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Stonegate 2010 Collection Merlot (California). This is a simple, fruity wine whose berry and spice flavors have some appeal. It’s soft and sweet. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

Burgess 2008 Triere Estate Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley). Made from 100% Merlot grown in Yountville, this is a lean, unforgiving wine. It’s bone dry and tannic, with modest cherry fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Picazo Vineyard Merlot (Livermore Valley). Not as good as Darcie Kent’s Crown Block Merlot, this one is smooth, with big-shouldered tannins. It tastes of raisin toast, dried plums and tobacco, with menthol darting in and out along the edges. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

Sarah’s Vineyard 2007 Merlot (Santa Cruz Mountains). They held this wine back nearly five years before releasing it, but it’s still fiercely tannic. That’s the main problem, and to judge by the fruit, which is entering a mature phase, the wine’s future is in doubt. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 WineMag.com | 53

Pomar Junction 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles). Tastes like fruit-based syrup, with cherry and spice flavors. Lacks vivacity. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

PINOT NOIR

Merry Edwards 2009 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Amazingly rich, offering deep, complex layers of cherries, black raspberries, cola, anise biscotti, pomegranates, persimmons, black tea, orange zest, mushrooms, you name it, but don’t forget the spices, everything from cloves and black pepper to cinnamon. Utterly delicious, with a silky, briskly clean mouthfeel. But the tannins are pronounced. They’re not so strong as to lock the wine down, but do suggest time in the cellar. Give it four years, and it could be wonderful after 10 or more. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57

Marimar Estate 2008 La Masía Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 3. Price: $39 abv: 14.7%

Merry Edwards 2009 Meredith Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Here’s a Pinot to put into your cellar. That’s if you can keep from opening it now and savoring the deep, spicy flavors that are so captivating. Offers up layers of cherries, cola, pomegranates, mushrooms, Indian spices and minerals, not to mention a deft touch of sweet, smoky oak. Wonderful tannins and brisk acidity provide balancing structure to the richness. The finish is long. Drink anytime from now through 2017. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $57

Longoria 2009 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

Merry Edwards 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A distinguished Pinot Noir, notable for its pure, refined structure. Although it’s entirely dry, the cherry, licorice and pomegranate flavors are so rich, the wine tastes sweet. The earthiness of the soil shows up in a taste of sautéed wild mushrooms, splashed with balsamic. A brilliant wine, capable of aging for a decade. Perfect with roast lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $54

Armanino Family Cellars 2010 Amber Ridge Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Armanino’s 2010 shows a welcome return to form after the 2009. Indeed, it’s more like the ’08, vastly rich in raspberry and cherry compote, gingersnap cookie, sweet, caramelized oak and exotic spice flavors. Feels like pure silk and satin in the mouth, making it perfect for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $55

Chronicle 2009 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $60 54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Chronicle 2009 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). The grapes obviously were well grown, as this wine shows a particular intensity of red cherry fruit, as well as minerality. The acidity is just about perfect, the tannins brisk and fine. Yet it’s too young to offer full enjoyment. Cellar this polished Pinot Noir for 4–6 years to let it change in interesting ways. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

Coghlan 2009 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Kazmer & Blaise 2009 Primo’s Hill Pinot Noir (Carneros). A terrific Pinot Noir, from a winery compiling a serious track record. Grown on the Napa side of Carneros, the wine shows classic Primo’s Hill character, with the blackberry pie, cola, mushu plum and sandalwood flavors accented by a little more acidity than usual. Defined by elegance and complexity, it’s an ager, although it’s beautiful now right out of the bottle. Should easily develop through 2015. —S.H. Price: $50 abv: 14.4%

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made from eight vineyards located throughout this sprawling appellation, this wine showcases the art of the blend, and is an extraordinary achievement for its sheer opulence. Offers wave after wave of Pinot flavor, with superb tannins and mouthwatering acidity. The fact that this is Merry Edwards’s least expensive Pinot Noir is amazing and makes it a special buy. Production was 2,370 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

Native 9 2009 Rancho Ontiveros Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $64

Pessagno 2009 Four Boys Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). You know you’re dealing with a great Pinot Noir when it’s this delicious right out of the bottle, yet will age. This wine is enormously rich and sweet in cherries, blackberries, blueberries and cola, a wine that almost everyone will find delicious. Yet with thick tannins and brisk acidity, it has the protective structure to evolve over at least six years, and possibly longer. —S.H. Price: $55 abv: 14.9%

Rusack 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Who wouldn’t love this Pinot Noir? It’s zippy in acidity and ripe in briary raspberry and cherry fruit, with spicy, smoky oak complexity. Really defines the luxurious silkiness of the appellation. The grapes are mostly from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, with the balance hailing from Rio Vista Vineyard. Drink now2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

Samsara 2009 Kessler-Haak Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Just wonderful, showing the great richness and complexity of a top

Santa Rita Pinot Noir. Partial whole-cluster fermentation gives the wine a spicy earthiness and full-bodied tannins, yet the underlying red berry and cherry fruit shines through. Showing well now and over the next six years. —S.H. Price: $46 abv: 14.4%

Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Heritage Selection Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

Marimar Estate 2008 Earthquake Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

Marimar Estate 2008 Stony Block Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.7% Price: $47

Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Ripeness marks this Pinot. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries and cherries, brightened with acidity. Seems a bit straightforward by virtue of sheer dazzle, but it is a superb example of the Santa Rita Hills, at a good price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $26

Merry Edwards 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Merry Edwards doesn’t just slap this regional blend together. This is a combination of her best vineyards. It’s a wonderful wine, dry, balanced and deep in berry, spice, cola and earthy flavors. In many ways, it’s the consummate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

Morgan 2009 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s Pinot Noirs tend to be dark, full-bodied and dense. They’re not for fans of a more delicate interpretation, but winemaker Dan Lee is a master of the big California style. This ’09, from one of the most famous vineyards in the Highlands, certainly has heft, packed as it is with cherries, plums, dark chocolate and exotic spices. It’s very dry, and will pair well with rich dishes such as lamb and steak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a barnyardy funkiness to this Pinot Noir that is frankly fascinating. Call it Burgundian, but it’s emphatically Californian in the richness of raspberries and cherries, with their jammy sweet finish. Earthy tannins and brisk acidity guarantee that this wine will age well through 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $48

Samsara 2009 Rancho La Vina Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe and complex, offering a wealth of cranberry, cherry, cola and pomegranate fruit flavors, spiced with clove and cinnamon. Silky and tart now, with some furry tannins. Just

lovely, but should develop over the next 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $46

Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). In youth, this Pinot Noir is brisk and appealing for its array of raspberry, cherry and cola fruit. Delicious as it is, it really needs time in the cellar to let the parts, including hefty tannins, resolve and come together. Best after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $42

Summerland 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). What a pretty, polished Pinot for drinking now. It shows its pedigree in the silky mouthfeel, brisk acidity and powerful flavors of persimmons, red plums, cola and dusty exotic spices. You can taste the briny minerals of this cool coastal appellation, making it a real wine of terroir. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

Bailiwick 2009 Borderline Pinot Noir (Marin County). So savory and easy to like, you might miss the complexity, but it’s there. Offers flashy raspberry and cherry pie, red plum, pie spice and sandalwood flavors, packed into firm but gentle tannins, and brightened with crisp acidity. The finish is entirely dry despite all the sweet fruit. Really defines the modern coastal California style, even if there’s no particular Marin County signature. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $34

Bailiwick 2009 Silver Pines Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Tight and brittle now, with acidity and dryness starring. The thing to understand about this Pinot is that it’s quite modest in alcohol and understated in flavor, showing rhubarb, pomegranate and cherry Lifesaver flavors with a minerally edge. Elegant now, it should develop over the next six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $44

John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6. abv: 14% Price: $45

Mistress 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). There’s an earthy note of cola that grounds the ripe cherry and pomegranate fruit, giving it depth and complexity. Made from one of the vineyards closest to the coast, this wine provides plenty of Pinot character. Thick tannins and vital acidity suggest aging until at least 2013. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $42

Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito County). San Benito County is just north of Monterey, and subject to similar coastal influence. This Pinot shows the cool climate in its zesty acidity and firm tannins, as well as the dryness that accompanies the fruit. Those flavors include cherries, cola and pomegranates. It’s a complex wine that will do interesting things over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

Summerland 2008 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). With a translucent ruby color and a light, silky body, this Pinot captivates for its ethereal mouthfeel. But there’s nothing light about the flavors, which are cherries, cola, pomegranates, bacon and the sweet, spicy vanilla of toasted oak. It is, in a word, delicious. Seems at its best now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Bailiwick 2009 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chalone). A dry, tannic young Pinot Noir. It’s not a big, gushy wine, but comes down more on the elegant side, with low alcohol and an earthiness to the cherry and cola fruit. You want to age it for at least five years, to let it show its stuff. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $44

Garnet 2010 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vineyard has been source to wildly variable Pinot Noirs, but Garnet, which is now a brand from B.R. Cohn, has succeeded in wresting a fine Pinot Noir. It shows the dry silkiness and acidity you want from a coastal Pinot, with elaborate, oak-influenced cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors that finish dry and spicy. Enjoy it over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

yard has been quite a successful source of grapes to several wineries, including Blessing. —S.H. Price: $40 abv: 14.3%

Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Clone 5 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Shows the strong acidity of Foursight’s new Pinot Noirs, but also considerable deepth and lushness. Once the mouth adjusts to the acids, it’s able to appreciate waves of cherries, blackberries, currants and cola, while 50% new oak adds rich notes of smoke and burnt butter. A lovely, dry and impressive wine, fine now with an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $49

Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

Longoria 2010 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This low production blend of Longoria’s estate Fe Ciega Vineyard and Bien Nacido Vineyard seems to be comprised of grapes that didn’t make the winery’s highest cut. It’s quite a nice wine, dry, brisk and pure in cherries, cola, spices and sandalwood, but it doesn’t seem like an ager, so enjoy now. —S.H. Price: $32 abv: 13.8%

Melville 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Rich and ripe in berry jam and spice flavors, this Pinot is enjoyable now for its silky texture and bright acidity. At the same time, it should develop bottle notes over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Rusack 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A nice evocation of Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir, showing rich raspberry, cherry, persimmon and crushed dark spice flavors, framed in a silky texture. Produced from the Solomon Hills and Sierra Madre vineyards. Now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

Pessagno 2009 Lucia Highlands Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For the price, this is one of the best Santa Lucia Highlands Pinots of the vintage. Just a lovely wine to drink now, showing fine dryness, acidity and silkiness. The flavors are of rose hip tea, cola, sour cherry candy, toasty oak, tobacco and exotic spices. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $28

Rodney Strong 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see

page 7. abv: 15%

Price: $40

Bailiwick 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Defines Russian River Valley Pinot Noir in the dryness, silkiness and full-bodied richness, with flavors of cherries, pomegranates, raspberries and slightly underripe persimmons. This complex wine grows better as it warms in the glass. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

Blessing 2009 Split Rock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Shows the silky dryness and elegance you want in a Pinot Noir, with brisk acidity framing sour cherry, pomegranate and persimmon fruit flavors. Really grows on you as it sits in the glass, warming up and developing complexity. The vine-

Rusack 2009 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Here’s a deliciously ripe, forward Pinot. It’s made in an accessible style, with flashy raspberry, strawberry and oak flavors. Yet it exhibits classic Pinot elegance. Could turn into something special in 6–7 years, if you’re a gambler. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

Coghlan 2009 La Encantada Sapphire Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Distinctly Californian in style, this is a soft, big, fruity Pinot Noir, packed with cherry, berry, cola and spice flavors that sink deep into the palate and last long on the finish. It’s certainly rich, but lacks some finesse and elegance. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

Coghlan 2009 Rio Vista Vineyard 115 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A bit of an outlier for Pinot Noir, with a green, minty streak that cuts right through the cherries and pomegranates. With it comes stimulating acidity, but you have to wonder about the wine’s long-term prospects. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $37

Cutruzzola 2009 Gloria Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). Very rich and flamboyant, this could only have grown in a New World climate. In fact it’s from a coastal vineyard. Ripe and expressive in raspberries, cherries, sandalwood and spices, the WineMag.com | 55

richness is balanced with crisp acidity. Drink over the next three years for freshness. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $40

Samsara 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The raspberry, cherry and vanilla flavors of this Pinot Noir taste sweet, giving it a delicious pie-filling richness. Crisp acidity fortunately provides balancing structure. It’s a flashy young wine for drinking over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $30

Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Acidity marks this wine, making it sharp in the mouth, while some greenness gives it a flavor of mint jelly. Nonetheless, there’s some fancy cherry and raspberry fruit. A fragile wine that seems at its best now, so drink soon. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

J. Wilkes 2007 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Shows jammy but somewhat simple cherry candy and mint flavors, the kind that come from young vines. Plenty of tart acidity scours the mouth, creating balance to the fruit. Ultimately, this is a Pinot Noir for drinking soon. —S.H. Price: $42 abv: 14%

Ketcham Estate 2009 Ketcham Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of ripe, spicy fruit in this Pinot, marked by waves of black cherries, Dr. Pepper cola, plums, tobacco and sandalwood. It’s brisk in acidity, a wine that gets the tastebuds whistling. Seems at its best now, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

Summerland 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Summerland’s new crop of Pinot Noirs is quite good, and while this is their least expensive and lightest, it shows their signature. Crisp and silky, its cherry, spice and sandalwood flavors make for nice drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $24

Manzoni 2010 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A big wine, ripe and explosive in fruit. Maybe too fruity, almost a bomb. Raspberries and cherries, sweetened with oak, dominate. Could use greater subtlety and restraint, not to mention grounding earthiness. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

One Hope 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). A little heavy for Pinot Noir. Almost like Grenache, with deliciously sweet, full-bodied flavors of cherry compote and raspberry tart, sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Give it a good decant and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

Pessagno 2009 Central Avenue Vineyard Pinot Noir (Monterey). A nice Pinot Noir to drink now. It’s bone dry and somewhat austere, showing only modest cherry, pomegranate and cola flavors that are marked by rich tannins and zesty acidity. But it’s very elegant. —S.H. Price: $21 abv: 14.4%

Summerland 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This tight, brittle Pinot Noir isn’t giving much pleasure now. It’s distinguished in structure, with a fine, silky mouthfeel, brisk acidity and a pleasurable dusting of tannins. But it’s a bit short on fruit. Give it a good airing and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Francis Ford Coppola 2010 Votre Santé Pinot Noir (California). A rather ordinary wine, dry and tart in acids, with modest cherry, tea and clove flavors, plus a little unripeness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

Summerland 2010 Vintners Select Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Heavy and dull, with a soft texture framing cherry, berry and spice flavors. Pinot’s famously silky texture is there, but the wine isn’t offering much else. —S.H. Price: $35 abv: 14%

Castle Rock 2010 California Cuvée Pinot Noir (California). Pretty ordinary stuff, although it does communicate Pinot’s basic message of dryness and silkiness. Shows modest cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

Blair Fox 2009 THompson Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Richness defines this ripe Syrah. It dazzles with blackberry and cherry jam, dark chocolate and exotic spice flavors, while firm tannins provide supportive structure. Oak adds additional tannins and a smoky, toasty coat. Drink now and through 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

Fritz 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For some reason, Fritz held this wine back eight months later than their very fine 2009 Reserve Pinot. It’s a solid wine, silky and pure, but it’s a little too sweet in raspberries and cherries, like a granola candy bar. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $30

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Forenzo 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft, simple and fruity, but with its silky texture and rich raspberry and cherry fruit and spice flavors, it’s pretty good for the price, showing authentic Pinot character. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $15

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

Leese-Fitch 2009 Pinot Noir (California). A little on the soft side, with candied raspberry, cherry and cola flavors, but at this price, it’s a decent starter Pinot Noir for those who are curious about this red-hot variety but don’t want to spend a bundle. Enjoy the silkiness and spice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Foursight 2009 Charles Vineyard Zero New Oak Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Brisk in acidity and bone dry, this Pinot is elegant, although it falls short on opulence. The flavors are of sour cherry candy and cola. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

Ketcham Estate 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A little rugged around the edges, with jagged tannins that emphasize the acidity. But it’s dry and balanced, and you’ll find ripe flavors of cherries, pomegranates, red licorice and toast. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

MacRostie 2008 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s something off in the aroma, which is herbal and peppery. Turns richer once you take a sip, with pleasantly dry, crisp cherry candy, white pepper and oak flavors. The vineyard is in a cool site, and it tastes like the grapes were not fully ripe. A disappointment after so many great bottlings from MacRostie. —S.H. Price: $40 abv: 14.2%

ous for a Pinot Noir, almost like Grenache, it’s so fullbodied and rich in cherries, mocha, anise and spices. Delicious in its way, but lacks Pinot finesse and subtlety. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Mario Perelli-Minetti 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With a nice, silky texture and flavors of cherries, pomegranates and cola, this Pinot has plenty to like. It loses a few points, though, for unripeness that mutes the fruit and makes the finish sharp. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $31

Sebastiani 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Light bodied and modest in flavor, with lots of acidity. You find yourself wishing there was more in the way of fruit. Still, it’s pretty good for the price, with a nice, silky texture. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

Whetstone 2008 Bella Vigna Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Big and ponder-

Samsara 2009 Melville Vineyard Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Rich, extracted and dramatic, dazzling in blackberry, currant, anise and smoky aromas and flavors. It’s a big, tannic, flamboyant young wine, just at the start of its journey. Will hold well through 2015 and possibly beyond. —S.H. Price: $40 abv: 14.9%

Fess Parker 2009 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full review see page 5. abv: 15.7% Price: $49

Melville 2010 Verna’s Estate Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This fruity Syrah is rich in cherries, raspberries, white chocolate and spices. Syrah hardly gets more flamboyant. And yet its structure is firm and pleasant. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $26

Rusack 2009 Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This rich Syrah leaves little to the imagination. It’s dramatic

in blackberry and cherry fruit and exotic spices, sweetened with new oak. Delicious now and for the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

Pessagno 2009 Manzoni Estate Vineyard Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). What a nice Syrah for drinking now. It shows that firm structure of Highlands reds, with fine acidity and dusty tannins, and is rich in blackberry, currant, licorice, bacon, black pepper and cedar flavors. Too bad more Syrahs aren’t this good. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

Novy 2009 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). Robust and fruity, this big Syrah floods the mouth with blackberries, currants, bacon and black pepper. It’s a delicious wine, wrapped into firm tannins, and ideal with a nice charbroiled steak, with salt and pepper to echo the wine’s spices. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

Samsara 2009 Turner Vineyard Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Lots of flashy blackberry and blueberry fruit in this rather forward Syrah. It’s also quite tannic and spicy, the result of 100% whole cluster fermentation. With its fairly high alcohol, it has a mouth-warming fullness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

Blair Fox 2009 Fox Family Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This is a rich, ripe Syrah, with deep, long-lasting chocolate, blackberry jam and oak flavors. Impresses for its sheer razzle dazzle. Probably best over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

Cakebread 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). Made from Carneros-grown grapes, this Syrah strikes the palate as rather candied in blackberries and cherries. It’s smooth in the mouth, and the oak brings a pretty layer of smoky cedar. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

Q 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

Dogwood 2008 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). This is a dry, robust Syrah, packed with blackberry, blueberry, anise, bacon and pepper flavors, and wrapped into sturdy tannins. Give it a decant, and drink with game or Mexican beef dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Samsara 2009 Verna’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This Syrah is remarkably ripe in blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit, with a bite of acidity. It feels fine and vital in the mouth. Give it a brief decant. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

Whetstone 2008 Phoenix Ranch Syrah (Russian River Valley). A fine Syrah, dry and rich in blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, grilled meat, spice and cedar flavors. It’s pretty firm in tannins and acids, though, making it hard and chewy. Difficult

to predict its future, but an educated guess suggests it’s not an ager. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $55

Black Box 2009 Shiraz (California). Robust, peppery, dry and fruity, just what an inexpensive Shiraz should be. Easy to like for its array of blackberries, spices and cedar. A great value in a barbecue-style wine. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

Manzoni 2009 Home Vineyard Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). Huge flavors of jammy blackberries and cherries dominate this Syrah, with a coating of sweet, caramelized oak. It’s yummy, but not especially complex. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

Radar 2009 Syrah (California). Thick, soft and sweetly extracted in blackberries and licorice, this Syrah can best be described as rustic. It’s not bad, just simple. —S.H. Price: $15 abv: 13.9%

PETITE SIRAH

Rutherford Grove 2008 Spring Creek Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Here’s a big, thick, tannic, ripe wine, impressive for its sheer power and fruit. In other words, it’s classic Petite Sirah. The flavors are just wild, suggesting blackberries, plums, bacon, orange tea and exotic spices. Absolutely delicious, with classic Napa balance. Shows why Petite Sirah has such momentum. Will age easily for at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

Carica 2009 Kick Ranch Petite Sirah (Sonoma County). If you’re sensitive to high alcohol, this wine isn’t for you. If you’re not, it has plenty to offer in the way of flavor, including raspberries, chocolate and pepper. Turns a bit overripe in the finish, but not too much. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $36

John Tyler 2008 Bacigalupi Vineyard Petite Sirah (Russian River Valley). Tastes like it was just bottled, with jammy red fruit, sweet licorice, vanilla and spice flavors and a fresh burst of acidity. Almost like it’s been frozen in time over the years, but not likely an ager. Drink up with barbecue, ham or pork chops. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $58

ZINFANDEL

John Tyler 2007 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Sweet, soft and delicious, this is a rich Zinfandel to savor with barbeque. It’s tasty in blackberry, cherry and blueberry fruit, with a coating of smoky oak. Earns extra points for a long, exotically spicy finish. Great now and over the next four years. —S.H. Price: $38 abv: 14.8%

Fritz 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A delicious Zinfandel, one of Fritz’s best in years. It shows Zin’s robust, briary character, with a peppery, brambly mouthfeel. Yet the long, cool vintage has resulted in sweetly ripe flavors of wild berries. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Madrigal 2008 Barberis Family Reserve Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This is one of those Petite Sirahs that will benefit from a little time in the cellar. Even though it’s made in the modern style, with softer, sweeter tannins than the variety has shown the past, it’s still a bruiser. Yet with a gigantic core of blackberries, blueberries and chocolate, it should negotiate the next 5–6 years easily. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustard Creek Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A soft, exceptionally ripe Zinfandel, sweet in what tastes like residual sugar, although the sweetness also comes from very high alcohol. The flavors are pure Paso Robles, all about black cherries, raspberries, red plums, red licorice, bacon and exotic spices. A splash of Petite Sirah brings tannic depth and weight. This is a good example of Peachy Canyon’s style. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

Jacob Franklin 2009 Hayne Vineyard Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). The vineyard, which is in St. Helena, certainly yielded grapes that were ripe, to judge by this wine’s flavors. It’s gigantic in berries, cherries, mocha and spices that are jammy and sweet. The best thing about it are the tannins, which are smooth and complex. Give this flashy young Petite Sirah a couple years to integrate and mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

Jaffurs 2010 Thompson Vineyard Petite Sirah (Santa Barbara County). Rich, ripe and oaky, this Petite Sirah charms with flashy blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate flavors that are opulent through the long finish. The vineyard is in the Los Alamos region. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

Uvaggio 2010 Primitivo (Lodi). If only more California Primitivo could be made in this style - soft, lower in alcohol, modestly showing its fruit there would be more converts among Zin fanatics, who would be wowed by the subtle black cherry and licorice flavors and dry finish, minimally aged in oak. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel (Amador County). Yorba is doing the world of Zin lovers a huge favor by holding its wines in bottle for longer than most producers, and what you get for all that waiting is a wine ready to drink that’s still got plenty of structure and ageability. This Zin shows great depth, with subdued fruit and darker flavors of plum and coffee allowed to shine, rounded out by an intensity of spice. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

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Cedarville Vineyard 2009 Estate Zinfandel (El Dorado). Cedarville is loved for its Syrah and Grenache but it can expertly handle its estate Zinfandel too—grown at 2,500-foot elevation— This smoky, raspberry-wrapped, silky wine is full of big, round mountain tannins yet somehow manages to be light on its feet on the finish. Have it with sticky ribs. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

Leese-Fitch 2009 Zinfandel (California). For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $13

Peachy Canyon 2010 Especiale Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Zinfandel is joined by Mourvèdre and a few other minor grape varieties in this overtly sweet, high alcohol wine. It’s soft and glyceriney, with cherry, blueberry, dark chocolate and pepper flavors. You have to give it credit for being true to its style. —S.H. Price: $40 abv: 15.5%

Peachy Canyon 2010 Mustang Springs Zinfandel (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this wine a glyceriney sweetness as well as heat, a prickly mouthfeel boosted by plenty of black pepper. Yet it’s softly delicious, in the Peachy Canyon way, with an enormous array of blackberries, chocolate and bacon. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $36

Peachy Canyon 2010 Snow Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is Peachy Canyon’s 100% Zinfandel, unblended, and it’s a true expression of the variety, Paso Robles style. That means it’s softly voluptuous and almost to the point of overripeness, with blackberry, raisin and spice flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

Peachy Canyon 2010 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Made in the Peachy Canyon style, this Zin, which contains some Petite Sirah, is very high in alcohol. It’s sweet, hot and soft. The blueberry, blackberry and chocolate flavors are almost in dessert wine territory, but it’s a very good example of its genre. —S.H. Price: $36 abv: 15.6%

Kirkland Signature 2009 Grandmere Old Vine Zinfandel (Amador County). Aromatically, this wine takes some time to open, but in taste it’s structured, pretty and very floral, with smooth lines of cherry and red raspberry that defy its high alcohol level. Made by Renwood Winery in Amador County, it’s a very good value. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $11

Peachy Canyon 2010 Incredible Red Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A useful Zin, rich and sweet and savory. Blended for complexity with Syrah and Petite Sirah, it’s satisfying in black cherry, red licorice and cola flavors, sprinkled with black pepper and baking spices. Easy to drink with barbecue, burgers and such. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $12

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2012

Ruby Hill Winery 2009 Peacock Patch Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A big Zin with juicy dark cherry and blackberry jammyness and a slight hint of cedar and clove. This wine is a chance to open but is a nice showpiece for Ruby Hill’s love of and prowess with big, ripe Zins. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $25

del, robust in blackberry, raisin and chocolate flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. With its sweet finish, it will be a good companion to tomato-based barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $18

Campus Oaks 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

Sebastiani 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). A rich, flashy Zinfandel, packed with spicy cherry, blackberry, cocoa and pepper flavors. Shows plenty of Dry Creek character in the firm tannins and briary, brambly mouthfeel. A sweet finish suggests pairing it with slightly sweet dishes, like ribs or chicken slathered in barbeque sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $24 Pessagno 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard Zinfandel (San Benito County). Roll out richly sauced barbecue for this lusty Zinfandel. It’s a big wine, full-bodied and dry, with spicy flavors of briary wild berries, tobacco and green herbs. It’s hard to like on its own, but sweet meats and hard cheeses will help soften it. —S.H. Price: $21 abv: 14.7%

Tortoise Creek 2010 The Chelonian Zinfandel (Lodi). Clements Hills is an up and coming subregion within Lodi and the grapes for this wine have been sourced from three Clements Hills vineyards. The wine has its rustic side but is also savory, with dark plum and berry fruit flavors and a toasty note at the end. The Chelonian Research Foundation, for which this wine is named, is devoted to the conservation of turtles and tortoises, and portions of the wine’s proceeds will be donated. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

Earthquake 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). No doubt Michael-David is going for a certain style with Earthquake, describing it as “over the top and shattering to the veins.” Indeed. This Lodi Zin will knock your socks and several other pieces of clothing off with its smoky, greasy, hot and sweet berry pie flavors, with a side of bacon to boot. True to its style, this is one very big boy. —V.B. abv: 16% Price: $26

Gnarly Head 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This majority Zin with 18% Petite Sirah is a popular, widely available choice for many Zin loves. Its concentrated fists of sweetness—vanilla and cherrybased mostly—are hits with many consumers. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Peachy Canyon 2010 Old Bailey Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Too sweet by far, this is almost a dessert wine, with overripe raisin and prune flavors alongside the blackberries. Sugar reprises on the finish, making it a little cloying. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

Perry Creek 2009 Zinman Zinfandel (El Dorado). For full review see page 9. abv: 14.9% Price: $14

Quackenbush 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Lake County). A good, everyday Zinfan-

Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 DeMayo Vineyard Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). A field blend from the DeMayo Vineyard, believed to be mostly Zin and Petite Sirah. The resulting wine doesn’t show much of its provenance or history, just a smidgen of spice but only fruit and modest of flavor. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Peterson 2009 Old School Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Made in the winery’s style, which is ripe, full-bodied and rustic. This one’s extracted in jammy blackberries, plums and currants, with some raisins on the finish, which is dry and spicy. —S.H. Price: $18 abv: 14.2%

Salvatore Principe 2010 Blue Groove Zinfandel (Lodi). A young, plummy Zin that’s lightly sweet, with blackberry jam, vanilla and caramel notes. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

XYZin 2009 Vine Age Series Zinfandel (California). A simple, rustic Zinfandel, sweet and fruity in cherry jam, red licorice, bacon and spice flavors, wrapped into robust tannins. The grapes were sourced from Sonoma, Mendocino and Lodi. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

Peterson 2009 Bradford Mountain Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Even if you don’t mind high alcohol in a Zinfandel, you might find yourself reacting to this one. It’s frankly hot, with a chili pepper burn to the berry fruit. It’s also overripe, with a sweet, Porty taste. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $35

Peterson 2009 Bernier Zinyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Unbalanced, with lots of acidity, hard tannins and raisiny flavors alongside green ones. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27

Peterson 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Vegetal and a little unclean, with deficient acidity that makes the fruit tastes insipid and sweet. Meanwhile, high alcohol makes it all hot. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $24

BARBERA

Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Barbera (Amador County). A very drinkable, densely lush Barbera that’s been given proper time to age and tame its tannins. This wine has dense plum flavors and accompanying layers of spice and earth, a very nice example of mountain-grown California Barbera. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

Lava Cap 2009 Estate Barbera (El Dorado). A soft, robust Barbera with dark cherry flavors from beginning to end, and a pleasant level of minerality that levels off on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

from Lodi, and Graciano has proven to like Lodi very much. In Fenestra’s hands this varietal is soft and round, perfectly fine drinking, a taste of Bing cherry in liquid form. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $25

Zucca 2009 Barbera (Amador County). A simple Barbera with not much in the way of aromas and just a slight amount of earthy berry flavors. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

TEMPRANILLO

Upland Estates 2009 Gewürztraminer (Snipes Mountain District). Gewürztraminer is a great success at this Snipes Mountain winery, here done in a full-bodied, fleshy style that discards any hint of floral soap. Vanilla bean, lemon cream, graham cracker and a thoroughly yummy core of ripe fruit mark this as nonclassic, but incredibly delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $12

DESSERT WINES

Twisted Oak 2008 The Spaniard (Calaveras County). It may just be that this 84% Tempranillo blend (plus 12% Graciano, 4% Garnacha) needs some more time in bottle to develop, in which case it will only get better. In the meantime it has undeniable juicy, red fruit, grippy tannins that are just starting to mellow and is overall a very savory and delicious wine. Fermented as a field blend, The Spaniard mingled for months in all-new French oak and would go gangbusters with lamb or other red meats. —V.B. Price: $49 abv: 14.3%

Yorba 2007 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tempranillo (Amador County). Yorba’s Tempranillo is very masculine, briary and tannic, packed with earthy baked plum, raspberry and dark chocolate mocha, with a slight trace of black licorice. Concentrated and lush, it would stand its own against many a big slab of meat. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

Longoria 2009 Clover Creek Vineyard Tempranillo (Santa Ynez Valley). Pinot Noir specialist Rick Longoria continues to tackle this difficult variety, which may be the hardest to master in California. His results are inconsistent. The ’09 is a very good wine, bone dry and dusty, with tobacco and cherry flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

OTHER RED WINES

Twisted Oak 2009 Torcido Garnacha (Calaveras County). What a wine. It tries to intimidate. At first, by its bottle size and alcohol level, but in the glass this 100% Garnacha is like a purring kitten—well a purring 20-pound Maine Coon cat, joyous in its pretty red fruit, and its earthy, meaty, vanilla and cinnamon toast range of goodness. All lush, Twisted Oak’s Torcido is, like a retro soap opera, brave and beautiful. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $32

Samsara 2009 Larner Vineyard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). A ripe red wine, brimming with cherry fruit, and heightened in texture by acidity. Not particularly complex, but rich and satisfying, making it one of the better Grenaches from California. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

Fenestra 2009 Graciano (Lodi). Livermore Valley-based Fenestra loves to source fun stuff

Mica Cellars 2010 Babcock VIneyard Charbono (Suisun Valley). This is a tiny production Charbono that’s light and in balance, with flavors and aromas of raspberry, red cherry and mushrooms right out of the dirt. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 Rusack 2009 Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Valley). Very ripe and flashy, but a little too sweet. Shows sugary raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with lots of zippy acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Terre Rouge 2008 Muscat a Petits Grains Vin Doux Naturel (Shenandoah Valley). Bill Easton doesn’t make this dessert wine every year, so when he does, especially of this caliber, it’s a good time to pick up some of this deliciously balanced dessert delight. It’s a very nuanced rendering of crisp, clean peach, pear and honey flavors that would go well with fruit desserts or anything involving almond paste. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 16.5% Price: $15/375 ml

Quady 2010 Essensia Orange Muscat (California). For full review see page 5. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

Quady 2010 Elysium Black Muscat (California). For full review see page 6. abv: 15.1% Price: $21

Bonterra 2010 Bartolucci Vineyard Muscat (Lake County). Bonterra is offering up some serious yumminess here, from organic grapes grown in Lake County. The sweet wine opens with a sweet floral nose and a lot of minerality graduating into a concentrated thickness of golden honey-graham flavors. —V.B. abv: 9% Price: $16/375 ml

Terre Rouge 2003 ROX Monarch Mine Vineyard Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). Made in an oxidized style like a Sherry from Spain, ROX is meant to be drunk as an apéritif with raw oysters or hard, stinky cheeses and cured meats. An interesting almond-flavored take on Sierra Foothills-grown Roussanne grapes for sure. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20/500 ml

Martin Ray 2008 Dessert Wine (California). Very sweet, but the raspberry and cherry fruit is thin, making the wine ultimately unsatisfying. —S.H. abv: 16.8% Price: $18

WASHINGTON WHITE WINES

Poet’s Leap 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

Robert O. Smasne 2008 Francis Reserve White (Columbia Valley). Two-thirds Chardonnay, 22% Viognier, and the rest Sauvignon Blanc— an unusual blend that works well. Medium gold and showing the color and scents of oak aging, this bigboned white runs the gamut from apple to pear to peach, soaked in Bourbon barrel flavors, with a rich, creamy finish. —P.G. Price: $38 abv: 13.5%

Stottle 2008 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). From Dwelley vineyard grapes, this barrel-fermented Viognier offers appealing toasty fruit coated in buttered nut goodness. Meyer lemon and stone fruits, dusted with cinnamon, give it a French pastry sort of finish, though it is completely dry. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

Airfield Estates 2010 Lightning White (Yakima Valley). A screwcapped, Rhône-style white, blends 43% Viognier, 39% Roussanne and 18% Marsanne in a tightly wound, fresh, lively wine. Spicy apple and pear fruit flavors run into a medium long finish with some near-term aging potential. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

Upland Estates 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Snipes Mountain District). This opens soft, even a bit flat, and should be served chilled for best showing. With some breathing time tropical fruit flavors come up, ripe and fleshy, with a butterscotch finish and a bit of heat. Best for near-term drinking. —P.G. Price: $15 abv: 13.5%

SPARKLING WINES

Treveri Cellars NV Brut (Columbia Valley). A Chardonnay-based sparkler, this rich and concentrated wine has a luscious mix of apricot, peach and papaya fruit flavors in a creamy, textural setting. Exceptional length and development in the glass, which keeps bringing in nuances such as vanilla and pepper. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $14

Treveri Cellars NV Demi-Sec Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley). A sweetly floral nose wraps around you with the intensity of the WineMag.com | 59

Gewürztraminer grape, suggesting orange, perfume and spice. It’s sweet enough to serve with a fruit-based dessert, though not sugary in any way. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $17

Treveri Cellars NV Extra Brut (Columbia Valley). Treveri is a new Washington state sparkling wine producer that offers a full lineup of traditional method bubbly. This Extra Brut has clean, tart flavors of melon and citrus, fresh and crisply defined. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $14

CABERNETS & BLENDS

Dunham 2007 XIII Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Dusted Valley 2008 V.R. Special Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Cabernet Sauvignon, deep and sappy, with the dark, licorice and coffee-infused complexity of Walla Walla’s best bottles. Sharp and young, with a potent, liquorous finish, this explosive bottle of cassis-driven fruit should cellar well for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Price: $53 abv: 15.3%

Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

JM Cellars 2009 Tre (Columbia Valley). A slight name change in 2009 for what previously was labeled Tre Fanciulli. It is still a blend of old vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, clean and pure with pretty cherry fruit. It’s focused and full-bodied, a bit blocky, but perfectly balanced and drinking nicely already. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

er. Tannins are round, almost silky, and the wine fades in a graceful finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

Robert O. Smasne 2009 Carl Reserve (Columbia Valley). This Rhône-style red blend plays out broadly across the full palate, filling the mouth with tangy flavors of mixed berries and plums. Generously applied oak brings on a wash of baking spices, coconut and cinnamon, giving a sweetness to the moderate tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $68

Smasne Cellars 2008 County Line Red (Columbia Valley). A standout in a flight of more expensive wines, this five-grape blend leans heavily on the Bordeaux varietals, with a bit of Syrah as well. Firm and complex, its black cherry, cassis and plum fruit flavors are nicely accented by baking spices and red licorice. The balance is perfect; the finish carries a suggestion of dried leaf. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Airfield Estates 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This young winery has made huge strides with its red wines, as this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates. Young, tight, tart, and expressive, it takes the cranberry and cassis components from cool-vintage, cool-climate grapes, and turns them into a complete and complex wine. High acid, with well-integrated nuances of mushroom, earth, and smoke. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

JM Cellars 2009 Longevity Red (Columbia Valley). All six Bordeaux grapes—yes, including Carmenère—are in this fruity blend, aged for 21 months in 80% new French oak and 20% once-used French oak. Plums and cherries, a distinctive whiff of cola, and highlights of cinnamon spice all come togeth60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2011

Farm Boy 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). A go-to red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malbec, Farm Boy is one of Robert Smasne’s many ventures. A fruity mix of cherries and plums, with wellintegrated streaks of clean earth, milk chocolate, and a whiff of Bourbon barrel. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

Robert O. Smasne 2008 Owens Reserve (Columbia Valley). A raisiny and ultraripe Bordeaux-style blend, two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon. It has apparently been given a lot of time in heavilytoasted barrels, and the layers of smoke, espresso, cinnamon and tobacco dominate. A wine for those who like the blockbuster, oaky style. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

Smasne Cellars 2008 Upland Vineyard Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain District). This drinks ripe, though the alcohol is under 14%. Deep and chewy flavors of black cherry and cassis, hinting at raisin and prune, anchor a substantial wine with muscle and verve. Spicy and chocolaty, this opens up nicely over the course of several hours. —P.G. Price: $42 abv: 13.5% Dusted Valley 2009 Wallywood Red (Columbia Valley). This is a GSM blend—about two-thirds Syrah—loaded with juicy acidity. The sappy, deep raspberry fruit sinks into the palate, racy and penetrating. It suggests that this is a wine to cellar for awhile. At the moment it suddenly hits a hard stop— a wall of slate and graphite. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

black cherry fruit carries a root beer finish. Not that it isn’t a tasty drink—it is—it’s just less interesting than before. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $53

Lullaby 2008 Lalayee Red (Walla Walla Valley). This 50-50 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is soft upon entry, with delicate, pretty fruit flavors of raspberry and wild plum. Gentle accents hint at buttery caramel and sweet cracker through a wellbalanced finish. A light touch is evident throughout. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Airfield Estates 2009 Aviator Red (Yakima Valley). Light and balanced, this five grape Bordeaux-style blend does not try to overreach. The fruit is clean and delicate, pale cherry set amidst dried leaves, tobacco, and muted tannins. Plenty of acid keeps it lively, but everything is in focus and proportionate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Dusted Valley 2008 Stone Tree Vineyard BFM Red (Wahluke Slope). This amped-up vintage of the Merlot-dominated, BFM Bordeaux-style red tops 15% alcohol, but seems a bit contrived. Aggressive vanilla and tobacco flavors cover up the nuanced highlights found in past BFM vintages, and the base of

Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard (Wahluke Slope). Pretty, supple purple fruits infuse this interesting blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and Mourvèdre. No one grape dominates; the flavors are smoothly integrated and well-matched, with an undercoating of smoke, licorice, pastis and coffee. Nicely polished tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

Stottle 2008 Reserve (Columbia Valley). An unusual blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera, aged two and a half years in French oak, yields a pleasing wine with light berry fruit anchoring a spicy center. The barrel notes add toast and cracker, nicely balanced, and there remains a suggestion of yeasty dough as well. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $34 Dusted Valley 2009 Squirrel Tooth Alice Red (Columbia Valley). A Rhône-style red blend, with tart boysenberry and blueberry fruit. Sappy and forward, with light tannins and moderate acidity. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $39

Steppe Cellars 2008 Artemisia (Columbia Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend, this initially hides its fruit in a wash of sharp-toned barrel scents. Tart berry flavors come in with a hint of sweetness, along with some volatility and heat. The wine should benefit from further bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

MERLOT

Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Valley). Firm raspberry fruit, tight and concentrated, is swathed in a generous coat of deliciously toasty oak. Tart and youthful, the wine’s depth comes through as it breathes open in the glass, adding licorice, coffee grounds, and buttered nuts to the toasty finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

Airfield Estates 2009 Merlot (Yakima Valley). This is all Merlot, tight and toasty, with generous black fruits compacted into a dense core. This one needs more bottle age, and/or substantial decanting time, but it shows excellent depth and polish already. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $25

Hightower 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is 100% Merlot, and all Red Moun-

tain fruit. Ripe plums and cherries are accented with hints of dried leaves, tobacco, and sweet herb. Baking spices reflect its 20 months in oak, and the wine has a soft finish that is ideal for immediate enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

Steppe Cellars 2008 Merlot (Columbia Valley). At first, a rush of front-loaded plum and blackberry fruit hits the palate, then the flavors seem to sag a bit entering the midpalate. A wall of stillto-be-resolved oak leads into a hard, astringent, somewhat woody finish. Yet there is a substantial and wellbuilt wine here, waiting to resolve its components into a more seamless whole. Retasted after being open a full day, it showed well, suggesting good aging potential. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

Kirkland Signature 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy. abv: 14.5%

Price: $9

SYRAH

Dunham 2008 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: NA Price: $75

Dusted Valley 2008 Rachis Syrah (Columbia Valley). A new entry in the Dusted Valley lineup, this offering is co-fermented with Viognier and includes a small amount of Petite Sirah as well. It shows real depth and power, a concentrated explosion of boysenberry and black cherry fruit, annotated with clove and anise. A delicious underpinning of mineral and graphite anchor the lengthy finish. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $53

JM Cellars 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This wine kept improving in the glass over a period of hours, and as it did so, the score kept rising. Initial scents of Bourbon barrel gave way to rich blueberry and black cherry fruit, set in a roasted, potent mix of darker flavors. Smoke, coffee liqueur, a whiff of stem, a streak of vanilla, all tightly wound and elevated with scents of citrus peel. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

JM Cellars 2009 Boushey Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). An elegant showcase for the Boushey fruit, this new JM Cellars release displays refined raspberry fruit, coated in silky cocoa and almond butter. Firmly acidic, sleek and racy, it gains complexity and texture through a lingering, tobacco-laden finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

Dunham 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Thick, oaky and loaded with toasty highlights, this substantial Syrah slathers its fruit in a heavy coat of caramel, buttered nuts and spice. Delicious and supple, its naturally juicy acidity keeps the wine lively. With substantial breathing time, boysenberry fruit melds with

streaks of roasted coffee, clove and tobacco. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). An unusual and compelling effort, this opens with lush, generous fruit flavors of both red and black berries, highlighted with orange peel. Excellent depth and texture, with a fullbodied middle and palate-pleasing minerality. Gains complexity through a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

Dusted Valley 2009 Stained Tooth Syrah (Columbia Valley). Substantial and muscular, still quite tight and unyielding, this grudgingly displays purple fruits in a mix of roasted coffee beans, clove and black olive. If past releases are any indication, this will continue to evolve and expand as it gets a bit more bottle time. —P.G. Price: $32 abv: 15.2%

McCrea Cellars 2007 Boushey Grande Côte Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Round, ripe and quite pretty cherry fruit flavors, showing a hint of loam and a briny note. Tannins have smoothed out, and the length is better than average. Score could improve with further bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

Smasne Cellars 2008 Block #3 Lawrence Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). Tart and juicy, with crisply-rendered berry and plum fruit flavors. As with all the Smasne wines, the oak is a large presence, here adding a striking note of clove. The tannins hint at a slight green streak, but the overall balance is fine. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

McCrea Cellars 2007 Cuvée Orleans Syrah (Yakima Valley). Dusty and toasty aromas over sweet plum fruit, with a streak of mocha running sharply down the center. Svelt and open, yet still sharp and showing a little bite in the back. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

OTHER RED WINES

Airfield Estates 2010 Tempranillo (Yakima Valley). Much improved from past efforts, this firm and fruity Tempranillo has a lush core of boysenberry and black cherry fruit. It’s finished with screwcap, and may require decanting to push it open, but it will reward your patience with a deep and focused wine that has some cellar potential. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

Smasne Cellars 2009 Upland Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Mountain District). Dried leaf and cherry tobacco scents highlight this wellmade Grenache. It includes just a whiff or two of the classic funk, but the rich black-cherry fruit is the real star, well-ripened and leading into a clean, lingering finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

Stottle 2008 Tempranillo (Horse Heaven Hills). Stottle does an especially good job with Tempranillo, sourced from the same site as its Nebbiolo. Fruity and fleshy, loaded with bright berry notes, it reflects its 21 months in barrel in its complex streaks of spice, chocolate and butterscotch. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $26

Stottle 2008 Barbera (Columbia Valley). Solidly varietal flavors of strawberry and Bing cherry fruit anchor this well-made, 100% Barbera. The wine has both depth and polish, with some varietal tartness running through a medium length finish. It makes a good case for Barbera’s potential in Washington state. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

Airfield Estates 2010 Pinot Noir (Yakima Valley). This has a soft entry, its fruit beginning to show secondary flavors of bakery pastries. Mulberry and prune, soft and spicy, make for a pleasing, accessible wine that finishes with a lick of cinnamon. It is already drinking well. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

Dusted Valley 2009 Stone Tree Vineyard Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). Round and fruity, with a generous mix of berry and cherry, and no discernible oak influence, this pleasing Mourvèdre lets the fruit be the star. Nicely balanced and drinking well already, it carries a hint of mineral/metal in the finish. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $39

Steppe Cellars 2008 StoneTree Vineyard Malbec (Wahluke Slope). It drinks bigger than the listed 14% alcohol, but remains all in proportion. Tangy cherry and plum fruit flavors are wrapped in spice, cinnamon especially. A coffee scent carries through on the palate, infusing the finish. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $28

Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills). Dark and chocolaty, with grainy tannins under deep cassis and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied and chewy, with coffee grounds and spices filling in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). From a well-regarded site in the Horse Heaven Hills, this pure Malbec is clean and well-proportioned, but a bit on the simple side. Plain red fruit flavors, accented with light barrel notes, quickly fade on the delicate finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

Smasne Cellars 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Carmenère (Horse Heaven Hills). A heavily pungent scent of bell pepper is partially cloaked in mocha flavors but seeps through on the palate. An uneasy truce between the vegetal fruit and the chocolaty barrel keeps this wine in an awkward condition; more bottle time may soften it but it can’t ripen it. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $28

Stottle 2007 Nebbiolo (Horse Heaven Hills). Pure Nebbiolo from the Elerding VineWineMag.com | 61

yard, aged 40 months in a mix of French and American oak. Nebbiolo does not have much color to begin with, and this seems a bit washed out, with acids and barrel flavors overtaking the fruit. Astringent and aggressively oaky. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $42

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SPIRITS

REMEMBER THE REPOSADO

don’t drink reposado,” the Tequila rep said. “I just don’t think of it. I use blanco for mixing drinks, and añejo for sipping straight up.” Apparently, reposado has become the forgotten middle child of the Tequila world. Blanco (“white,” or unaged) Tequila is the sassy youngest, the one who stirs up trouble in margaritas and other cocktails, while añejo (“aged”) Tequila is the elder statesman, dark and mellow. Meanwhile, reposado (“rested”) Tequila, aged in oak barrels from two months to one year, is often a perfect blend of sprightly peppery and citrus notes tempered by mellow, toasty vanilla. It’s also an excellent canvas for showcasing the differences in terroir. Most Tequila originates in Jalisco, Mexico; those distilled from agave plants grown in the highlands area tend to

have a fruity, floral, herbaceous quality, while in the lowlands, volcanic soil yields earthy, dry tequilas. Further, a number of smaller producers specify particular estates where the agave plants were grown. This Cinco de Mayo, don’t forget about reposado. Bartenders certainly aren’t. Indeed, reposado Tequila is making a strong showing on cocktail menus. While añejos are often too expensive to mix, and blancos too brash, the honeyed tones of reposados lend affordable finesse to all manner of drinks, and many are suitable as sipping Tequilas in their own right. With such a fine crop available, it’s hard to imagine why anyone wouldn’t be drinking reposado these days. Sláinte! —K ara Newman

Siete Leguas Reposado (Mexico; Gemini Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). Excellent all around, for sipping or mixing, this highlands Tequila has a delicacy and an almost whiskey-like feel to it. Pale straw, almost no color at all, with lightly smoky and herbaceous flavors finishing with a hint of vanilla. abv: 40% Price: $45

1921 Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Casa 1921 LLC, San Antonio, TX). Luscious butterscotch notes touched with lemon peel lead the way, while dry cocoa, leather and cigar tobacco notes develop on the finish. Soft feel. Based on this complex and mouthwatering reposado, the añejo must be a knockout. abv: 40% Price: $45

Luna Nueva Ultra Premium Limited Edition Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For full review see page 10. abv: 40% Price: $37

Don Roberto Reposado (Mexico; Aveniu Brands, Baltimore, MD). Don Roberto is one of the few remaining 100% Mexican- and familyowned Tequila producers. The brand launched in 1924 as the family’s private stock, and was originally not commercially available, but given only as gifts. It’s still giftworthy, bursting with butterscotch flavors and ending with a lilt of fresh apples, pears, and light brush of black pepper. Aged six months. abv: 40% Price: $44

Tequila Corrido (Mexico; True Blue Imports, Scottsdale, AZ). “Corrido” is Mexican folk music, originating from the late 1800s. Nodding to the musical name, a guitar pick on a leather strap is wrapped around the bottle’s neck. Perhaps because it’s aged twice (first in Jack Daniel’s barrels, then in Maker’s Mark barrels), this highlands Tequila is dessert-like and reminiscent of an añejo. It would make a good sipping Tequila. Look for maple syrup and apple notes, with a creamy mouthfeel and tingly cinnamon spice on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $40

Karma Tequila (Mexico; WC Spirits LLC, North Hollywood, CA). Aged nearly a full year (even one more day would have classified this as añejo), this pale-straw spirit has a caramel foundation, but retains a pleasing lightness. The aroma is delicate and floral, while the flavors surprise, with cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg woven into the caramel. It doesn’t hurt that this highlands Tequila comes in a gorgeous bottle with a glass stopper and leather bracelet wrapped around the bottle’s neck. abv: 40% Price: $37

Luna Nueva 2012 The Mayan Prophecy Edicion Especial Tequila Reposado (Mexico; LCG International, Medina, OH). For full review see page 10. abv: 40% Price: $45

Azul Imperial Reposado (Mexico; United Imports, West Covina, CA). Give this bright yellow-gold reposado a little time for the alcohol to dissipate. Look for a mild honey-agave scent and round, buttery flavors with a faint peppery tickle in the back of the throat. The spirit finishes dry and clean, with a bit of oakiness. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $29

Jose Cuervo Tradicional Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Diageo, New York, NY). A solid cocktail choice, this 100% agave Tequila has rich,

rounded vanilla and zingy peppery notes followed by a dry cocoa accent on the finish. The bottle is a stunner, with its yellow, red and black Day of the Dead graphic that’s meant to be frozen to bring out additional thermochromic details. (It’s a bit of overkill—the bottle is plenty eye-catching at room temperature.) abv: 40% Price: $26

Olmeca Altos (Mexico; Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY). Within the square bottle with tactile raised graphics, this spirit is loaded with tropical fruit (pineapple and lychee) chased by robust caramel notes and waft of smoke. Leaning toward dessert-like flavors, this highlands Tequila veers close to añejo territory. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $25

T1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional (Mexico; T1 Tequila, San Antonio, TX). Rested in barrels previously used to age Scotch whiskey, this Tequila is complex, earthy and unlike any other. Where others are caramel-forward (the result of resting in used Bourbon barrels), this reposado is crisp, with woodsy, green flavors and subtle notes of coconut and toffee on the finish. The striking, bulbous bottle looks like a genie should pop out, capped as it is with a flame-shaped glass stopper. abv: 40% Price: $48

Tres Agaves Reposado (Mexico; Tres Agaves Products, Oakland, CA). Give this light reposado a little time to open up. The aroma morphs from a smoky, almost barbecue sauce-like aroma to softer, fruiter, even lightly floral notes. The spirit, aged six to nine months in previously used Bourbon casks, offers a vanilla flavor with an assertive herbaceous, grassy finish, faintly touched with menthol and fresh basil. abv: 40% Price: $36

Gran Amigo Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Winery Exchange, Novato, CA). Smoky notes barrel out first, followed by rounded butterscotch and nutty flavors on the elongated finish. This palestraw reposado would make a great margarita, it’s crying out for lime. Best Buy. Price: $25 abv: 40%

Pueblo Viejo (Mexico; Gemini Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). Has a well-constructed mix of fruity sweetness and oaky vanilla, with a light but lingering smoky finish. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $23

Tequila Teirras Reposado (Mexico; Castle Brands, New York, NY). This certified organic Tequila has a fresh, fruity aroma, with faint touches of pepper and hay. On the palate, look for bright jalapeño flavors, like a blanco, covered with a thick blanket of vanilla. Soft feel. abv: 40% Price: $32

Excellia Reposado (Mexico; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY). Aged in Sauternes and Cognac casks, this light gold spirit has

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notes of sweet vanilla, delicate oak, and a faintly smoky finish. The bottle looks sophisticated, with a pretty red glass flower inset. abv: 40% Price: $65

Gran Dovejo Reposado (Mexico; Mendez Imports, Dixon, CA). This spirit has a complex, rewarding array of flavors. The aroma is very smoky and spicy, evoking barbecue. But on the tongue, this vibrant-gold reposado layers vanilla and orangepeel flavors with a warm hint of toffee, and the smoke only comes through on the finish. Comes packaged in a striking, gift-worthy square-shouldered bottle with impressive heft. Aged nine months. abv: 40% Price: $50

Magave Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Magave Tequila, San Francisco, CA). This reposado reads almost like a mezcal, showing lots of zingy jalapeno pepper and smoke, chased with just a touch of vanilla-tinged agave sweetness. Attractive bottle design with embossed bull logo on front and goldleaf design on back. Aged for eight months. Price: $36 abv: 40%

Milagro Select Barrel Reserve (Mexico; William Grant and Sons, New York, NY). This limited-edition reposado comes in an exquisite bottle with a spiky glass piña (agave) blown inside. The restrained and mellow spirit has a mild honey aroma and flavor, with flashes of cinnamon and jalapeño pepper on the finish. Soft feel. abv: 40% Price: $57

Tributo A Mi Padre Tequila (Mexico; Innovation Spirits, Newport Beach, CA). A beautiful story accompanies this Tequila: the name translates as “Tribute To My Father.” This pale gold, addictively sippable reposado does justice to the memory of Hector Barrero Sr., melding notes of wildflowers, honey, custard and pears. Despite a bit of alcohol sting, this spirit is soft and light. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $29

Tequila Ocho Reposado (Mexico; Altamar Brands, Corona del Mar, CA). The aroma on this single-estate Tequila is reminiscent of a very lightly peated whiskey, mingling smoke and pepper with a light caramel note. The flavors tend toward custard and agave sweetness, spiked with pepper and mint. Earthy, smoky and peppery notes accelerate on the long finish. Light, silky feel. abv: 40% Price: $50

Voodoo Tiki Tequila Reposado (Mexico: Tiki Tequila of America, Lighthouse Point, FL). Tiki-philes will exclaim over the whimsical bottle with a green tiki figurine inside and capped with a green wax seal. The light gold spirit itself, aged six to eight months, features zesty citrus, piquant pepper, and a long, elegant vanilla finish. It’s a natural for tiki classics like El Diablo (combined with crème de cassis and ginger beer). abv: 40% Price: $50

Azunia Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Intersect Beverage LLC, San Clemente, CA).

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In this lowlands Tequila, fruity and peppery flavors weave harmoniously into the elongated finish. This spirit would be particularly welcome in a paloma or other citrus-forward cocktails. Rested in oak for eight months. abv: 40% Price: $35

Mejor Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Mejor Tequila Company, Los Altos, CA). This bright, light-gold spirit has a luxuriously fresh, fruity scent, like caramel drizzled over apple slices. The flavors are complex and mellow, morphing from grassy and herbal to lemon, hazelnut and cocoa on the finish. This single-estate highlands Tequila has a bit of alcoholic heat, but that wouldn’t matter lightened in a margarita or other citrusy cocktail. abv: 40% Price: $43

Lunazul Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Heaven Hill, Bardstown, KY). After a hint of agave sweetness, this spirit is fairly smoky on the palate, chased by a fruity note. Overall, this light-gold Tequila has a soft feel, although there’s a bit of alcohol bite, too. Price: $23 abv: 40%

Milagro Tequila Reposado (Mexico; William Grant and Sons, New York, NY). This pale straw-colored spirit has a soft, fruity aroma with a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate, look for jalapeño pepper and oaky, tannic notes and a gentle vanilla finish. Velvety feel. abv: 40% Price: $29

Siembra Azul Tequila Reposado (Mexico; Suro International Importers, Philadelphia, PA). Aged for just three months, this reposado reads almost like a perky blanco. It features lots of jalapeño pepper, smoothed out with light honeyed notes and it finishes with a touch of oak tannin astringency. Would make a good margarita. Aged for three months. abv: 40% Price: $40

Tequila Corazon Reposado (Mexico; Gemini Spirits & Wine, Chicago, IL). This light-gold reposado has a funky, overripe aroma and flavors that lean toward green pepper, sweetened with a drizzle of agave and nice sprinkle of baking spices on the finish. Any cocktail dosed with lime would really perk up this spirit. abv: 40% Price: $32

Peligroso Tequila Reposado 42 (Peligroso Spirits, San Clemente, CA). At 42% abv, this spirit is distilled hotter than Peligroso’s standard 80 proof line. Although there’s been something of a mania for higher-proof spirits recently, the extra alcohol doesn’t do this reposado any favors, bringing forward notes of smoke, oregano and resin. Consider opting for Peligroso’s fruity standard-issue reposado instead. abv: 42% Price: $50

Regional Reposado Tequila (Mexico; Intersect Beverage LLC, San Clemente, CA). Although this lowlands Tequila rested in oak for six months, the spirit shows practically no color or aroma from its time in barrels. The flavor has notes of resin,

with a light floral or herbal finish, and a flash of alcoholic heat on the tongue. abv: 40% Price: $20

Tequila Oro Azul Reposado (Mexico; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce, CA). This highlands Tequila has a funky vegetal scent and herbaceous flavors that combine oregano, resin and faint agave sweetness. It does come in a distinctive, bright-blue pyramid-shaped bottle. abv: 40% Price: $27

BEER

STOCKING UP FOR SUMMER

ith summer finally in sight, now is the time to start stocking up on some of today’s refreshing beer styles: light lagers, pale ales, and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps the most iconic selection for the season is a wheat beer, a deliciously light and yet oh-so-satisfying glass of gold that is sure to quench your thirst while simultaneously offering complexity and depth of flavor. Belgian wheat beers (aka witbier, witte, wit, white) are some of the most balanced, delicious and refreshing brews. They’re especially delicious during the summer months when their assertive carbonation, crisp citrus notes and delicate spice aromas provide a welcome counterbalance to warm weather. In the U.S., wheat beers have become increasingly popular, and many summer seasonals released from domestic brewers are made in that style. Normally pale to golden in color, with a substantial head, citrus-dominant wheat flavors and a briskly carbonated mouth, American ver-

sions often take traditional European styles and add their own twist: a unique spice, an unusual hop, a special brewing technique. Note the proper way to pour these brews. Because many wheat beers are bottle conditioned, it is common to find some sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Pour half of the beer and then swirl the remaining liquid in the bottle before emptying what remains into your glass. This way, any of the delicious yeast sediment that might have settled to the bottom of the bottle can be properly enjoyed. A perfect partner for light fare like salads and grilled chicken or fish, enjoy your favorite wheat beer while summer lasts. But if wheat beers aren’t your thing, we also offer a handful of reviews for other seasonallyappropriate styles: pale ales and American IPAs. There are many more excellent choices available than what’s included here, so be sure to check out your local distributor for the latest releases. Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

WHEAT BEER

Dock Street Bubbly Wit (Witbier; Dock Street Brewery, PA). Pours a golden-yellow color with a good amount of haze and a frothy white head that lingers. Rings of lace form in the glass after each sip. Aromas are typical for a wit: citrus, banana, clove and pepper. The medium-weight mouth is brimming with sweet citrus flavors, framed by notes of whole wheat bread, spice and lemongrass. Although the “Bubbly” part of the name came from the brewery’s use of Champagne yeast in this beer, it’s appropriate for this assertively carbonated selection. abv: 8.25% Price: $12/750 ml

Port City Optimal Wit (Witbier; Port City Brewing Company, VA). For full review see page 10. abv: 5.0% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

Samuel Adams Summer Ale (Americanstyle Wheat Ale; Boston Beer Company, MA). A tell-tale sign that summer’s finally here is when your favorite local watering hole has updated their Sam Seasonal tap to Summer Ale. A slightly hazy, golden apricot color in the glass, this easy-drinking, warmweather beer offers attractive notes of lemon, bread dough, allspice and a pinch of white pepper. Flavors of toasted wheat and lemon flesh out the mildly grainy, textured palate. Refreshing, with vibrant carbonation and a clean finish accented by hints of citrus pith. abv: 5.35% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat Beer (American-style Wheat Ale; Boulevard Brewing Company, MO). A soft floral character permeates the nose of this classic Midwest wheat beer. It pours quite hazy and light golden-yellow in color with a frothy white head. The yeast and grain aromas are in the forefront of the bouquet, while the vibrant mouth offers juicy citrus notes that end on a slightly bitter note. Alongside the citrus-fruit core are flavors of banana and bread dough, fleshing out the medium-bodied mouth with a slightly creamy texture. A refreshing selection you can enjoy all day long. abv: 4.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

Uinta Hazel Organic Amber Wheat Ale (American-style Wheat Ale; Uinta Brewing Co., UT). There’s a bright hop streak to this ale, lifting the moderately malty nose and mouth. Notes of raw dough and red fruits, like mild plum and small berries, complement the caramel malt aromas and flavors. Approachable and balanced, with a medium body, a round mouthfeel that’s lifted by lively carbonation and an easy finish. abv: 4.0% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

Hopper Whitman Belgian White (Witbier; World Brews, NY). Hopper Whitman is a value line, and this addition to the lineup offers great quality for the price. It’s lively and approachable, with faint aromas of spicy yeast and mandarin orange rind. There is a faint hop presence to the mouth, which adds a bit of depth to its otherwise straightforward wheat character and helps to stretch out the finish. A session-ready selection. Best Buy. abv: 5.4% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack

PALE ALE

Ninkasi Spring Reign Ale (American Pale Ale; Ninkasi Brewing, OR). This hazy-gold colored beer pours with a frothy white head and leaves a nice rim of lacing behind with each sip. Light aromas of clean malt and grass lead the way with glimmers of orange and white melon on the back. Surprising husky grain flavors dominate in the mouth, followed closely by a fair amount of astringency on the dry finish. Price: $4/22 oz abv: 6.0%

Cable Car Small Batch Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Cable Car Brewing Co., NY). Faint aromas of grassy hops, lemony citrus and fresh mint leaves add character to the otherwise bready malt core of this light orange brew. Easy drinking with a light, effervescent mouth and a clean grain finish. Balanced and refreshing; a nice choice for summertime. abv: 5.3% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

AMERICAN IPA

Maui Brewing Big Swell IPA (American IPA; Maui Brewing, HI). Sweet and bitter all at once, it’s like a rollercoaster for your senses with the two forces seemingly going back and forth on which one will take the lead. The bouquet is all fresh, sweet, citrus fruit aromas, while the medium-weight mouth is loaded with rich, toasty malt flavors followed by a sticky, astringent finish. abv: 6.2% Price: $9/6 pack cans

Sam Adams Latitude 48 IPA (American IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). An interesting IPA brewed with hops from top growing regions located close to the 48th latitude. This beer seems to be lacking a bit of fresh citrus flavor in the hop profile, with earthy spice and hop oil notes dominating the overall character. The sweet caramel and toasty malt flavors fill the mouth, with crisp carbonation and a smooth, rich finish. abv: 6.0% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

Barrel Trolley Belgian White (Witbier; World Brews, NY). Although this isn’t the most complex wit, it’s well-made and very drinkable, with the classic characteristics of a wheaty core jazzed up by accents of citrus peel, coriander and peppery spice. The mouth is light in body and highly carbonated, and there’s a crisp edge to the finish. abv: 5.4% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

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