GUMBS Keith EXECUTIVE CHEF, FENCHURCH RESTAURANT

It’s been a busy 12 months for Keith Gumbs, after becoming one of the first judges on the inaugural Young Masterchef and then taking over as Executive Chef at London’s sublime Fenchurch Restaurant last December. We caught up with him to discuss his first food memories, his pathway in the culinary arena and his hopes for the future.

What are your first memories of food?

My first distinct memories of food are the smells and sounds coming from the kitchen as my mum cooked when I was a kid. She was a popular chef on the island of Anguilla where I was raised, so I vividly remember her cooking and baking. It could be a traditional rum cake with loads of rum and spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger, which I remember hitting my nose. She would always call me over to taste the raw batter. The licking of the back of a spatula has always stuck with me - that’s how it all begun.

How did you begin your career as a chef?

I was a 400 and 800 metre runner as a teenager and actually had a scholarship to attend a training camp in Jamaica. You could say I was a bit of a delinquent though and due to an incident, my coach decided to postpone my scholarship for 6 months. At the time, I thought this was extremely unfair. I was the second fastest in the school and had travelled and represented my island at the world championships in Canada so I was disgruntled and started to look at other opportunities. Le Cordon Bleu were actually sending scouts to our school at that time and I was spotted and spoke to their representatives. I then spoke to my parents about a culinary career path and within a couple of days they had hooked me up. I think they saw it as a way of getting me off the island and away from bad influences.

I thought I would be going to a school in the Caribbean where it would be a couple of hours by boat from home, but I ended up being enrolled to London at the age of 16.

Who have been your mentors?

Julian O’Neill has been key to my development as a chef. It wasn’t like he was a Michelin star holder although for me he has always had Michelin star qualities. He saw the raw talent in me, he pushed me, he helped to temper my own temperament and he nurtured me. He was always looking to push me on and help me improve so he’s someone I always like to mention. I also have a tremendous amount of respect for Tom Aitkens. I worked with him at his Michelin starred restaurant on Elystan Street. He has a very intense working method, he’s very creative and I like the style he has.

Tell us about Fenchurch Restaurant I recently took over Fenchurch Restaurant in early December, so it’s been incredibly exciting. The focus has been on creativity and really searching for the things that will be the next big trends. That means within the Fenchurch framework and goals but alongside my own personality, profile and style of food. We have a fantastic venue on the 37th floor and we’re part of the very reputable Rhubarb Hospitality Collection in Sky Garden so it’s a great place to work.

How did your role on Young MasterChef come about?

After my stint on Great British menu, I was contacted by several TV production companies and I did a few screen tests but nothing really materialised. Then out of the blue, Shine TV contacted me and it all happened very fast. TV was definitely on my radar but I wasn’t actively pushing for TV opportunities. I have five children so teaching kids and the next generation is something very close to my heart.

Young MasterChef is a great way of showcasing the changes that have been made in kitchens since Covid and will help to re-educate young cooks with the right skillsets and show them that a professional kitchen is a fantastic place to be. Hopefully we can continue to help throw the net wide and re-invigorate those with a passion for food and shine a beacon on the industry and the career prospects it offers. We’re attracting a new generation and there will always be a firm hand of understanding that a kitchen requires discipline, but we want to also show that it is accessible to all and a place of fun, friends, learning and enjoyment.

What is your process when creating dishes?

First, I work out the compatibility of the ingredients – what is coming into season, protein, veg etc. How can they work together?

Then I work out what textures I want from each ingredient – puree, gel, crisp etc. Next, I decide what techniques I need to get the flavours and textures I need. I then look at how I want the dish to look and be plated. When everything is cooked to the required specifications, I then plate it up and we’re generally about 60% done at this stage.

I then look at it, taste it, review it and see where I need to minus, add and then we go again. By draft 3, it’s normally 95-100% completed. You often have great ideas in your mind but by the time you bring that to the plate, practicalities and limitations often mean the idea has warped. You have to strip them back and work to the strengths of your kitchen, resources and team.

How long does this take?

Maybe a couple of weeks to really perfect a dish but it varies. We may be working on a menu for an upcoming season where we have more time to prepare, or we could be working with a new ingredient for a seasonal special. If we can get 3 or 4 drafts done in a week, then another week of perfecting the processes, then we’re ready to go.

Favourite dish to cook?

I love using scallops – they’re very versatile and they can go with anything – meat, fish, shellfish, pork, raw or cooked. My favourite dish would be seared scallops with a lobster butter green sauce – which is a little like a curry, served with some carrots and coconut. A nice summer dish.