Group Zine Project by aaliarubybaloch

WHAT MUSHROOMS MEAN FOR FASHION

LOVE & LEATHER

What is mushroom leather?

The history of leather

Q&A

Environmental impact of rearing cattle for leather

The leather industry in different countires

C O N T E N T S

28 Industry pollution

Animal cruelty and the brands participating

The benefits of mushroom leather

The brands using mushroom leather

Other alternatives you can buy as well as mushroom leather 3

MUSHROOM Mushroom leather is a modern invention to overcome the harmful practices behind the production of animal leather. In this zine we will address the impact this harmful industry has on the environment, the countries involved, the animals being tortured and the alternatives you can start using to make a difference today. It is very easy to believe that the fashion brands you are buying from are sustainable and ethical just because they probably have a few products which they advertise to you in this way however, that does not always mean that everything they produce is eco-friendly and sourced in a responsible manner. We aim to educate people on a matter that has many grey areas and open your eyes to the horrors of the leather industry. 4

LEATHE 5

TH E I M PAC T O F L E A T H E R The leather industry contributes to a large part of our economy, with the leather sector worth around 70 billion dollars. The industry sees the production of bags, shoes and many other luxury goods used in consumers everyday lives. It has been found that 1.67x 102m² of leather is made annually providing financial stability throughout the world. Tanning is a three weeklong process whereby the skin of an animal is made into a sturdy material, or in the case of vegetable leather, vegetables are converted to a similar material, however this has a much more positive impact on the environment. Leather is extremely damaging to our environment as billions of gallons of water are required for the tanning process and tons of toxic chemicals. The chemicals pollute rivers and streams which many people in developing countries rely on as a source of drinking water. There is a huge loss of agriculture, and it has been found that five million people have been affected by the low quality water throughout India. The social and environmental impact leather has on the environment calls for a severe change in the industry, with the production of vegetable leather having a much more positive impact globally.

Leather production is a problem which is going to affect younger generations long-term. There is an immense amount of liquid and solid waste which leads to many social and environmental problems. Although the leather industry is significantly beneficial to our economy, the cons massively outweigh the pros, and this calls for change. Surprisingly to some, the process of tanning leather requires an immeasurable amount of oxygen and use of toxic metal salts which inevitably leads to deforestation, which creates a loss of habitat for animals and many other complications. Looking beyond the animal cruelty, not all the material is used, as animal trimmings, flesh wastes and chrome shavings all contribute to the pollution of the environment. Animal skin contains lots of collagens so not all of it is useful when it comes to making leather goods. Aside from the environmental concerns, the social impact is extremely damaging and is a threat to developing countries. 3.5 million tons of chemicals are required for the process of making leather, polluting the waters of freshwater fish, and drinking water. These polluted waters transmit diseases such as Cholera and Typhoid which subsequently in many cases lead to death, wiping out large populations of suffering countries.

Q: Do you think ethical clothing will ever dominate the fashion industry in the future? If so, why? A: Ethical clothing will dominate as long as they are able to lower their prices and be able to produce similar items that are available now.

Q: What do you think, as a person who will lead the future of fashion, about the movement of sustainable fashion and how do you think it will look 5 years from now? A: I believe it will be more sustainable, I dont believe it will dominate the market, but it will have a larger market share in the clothing industry. Fast fashion clothing will still be the main demand.

Q: What alternative fabrics to synthetic do you believe are to be the most promising for the mass-market?

Interview based on a 19 year old University student. Nottingham

A: I believe that a plant based alternative may be better as you will be able to reproduce the materials in a sustainable fashion.

Q: Are you interested in buying items that are made from alternative leather? A: Potentially, for some shoes I buy are part recycled materials.

Q: Do you think eco-fashion is still a small element of the market? If so, why? A: I personally think its cracking, yes but what I’ve seen so far its good, for instant I’m a fan of shoes, recently Nike have been producing Dunks which are made of 20% of recycled materials, which not only make the shoes cheaper, they look identical.

Q: In your opinion, what are 3 things that brands should focus on with regards to promoting sustainability? A: Similar to Nike, if its shoe content, they should try to use recycled content and produce the same products as it doesnt effect the attractiveness of the shoes. In general people are looking to become more sustainable.

Is it not about time fashion realises CRUELTY is not in style

Despite the fashion industry moving forward in a sustainable way, they still have a very long way to go before this is achieved fully. Many fashion brands have seen an opportunity to introduce vegan leather into the production of their items but still, there is a shockingly long list of brands that use animal leather. Just a few of these brands include Michael Kors, Gucci, Burberry, and Guess. You might be thinking that because your expensive shoes are being manufactured by highend designers that they are being produced ethically. However, it is most likely that the skin the shoes are made from has still come from India or China, two countries both with unenforced animal welfare laws.

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Factory farm

Deforestation

Although people are starting to boycott wearing fur due to the known harm it causes the animal involved, leather also comes from those same animals. Before becoming the designer shoes, bags, and belts we all know and wear, many animals endure the horrors of a factory farm. This includes overcrowded filthy cages, starvation, breaking of tails by handlers and rubbing tobacco or chillies in their eyes, all before a terrifying trip to the abattoir.

It is clear to see that leather production is linked to some serious sustainability issues. Not only do the cattle produce methane, but the extensive clearing of the amazon rainforest for rearing cattle leads to impacts of deforestation, water and land overuse, and gas emissions.

Astonishing

An astonishing figure of more than 1 billion animals are killed worldwide for the leather trade every single year. This mostly includes cattle, but in some extreme cases it can also involve lizards, ostriches, cats, and dogs.

Methane

2020

The Food and Agricultural Organisation estimates that around one animal for every five people on the planet were killed and used in global leather production in 2020. Although now 2 years on this figure is less, it is still much higher than it should ever be and awareness needs to be created around this topic.

After the meat industry, the leather industry is the most economically important by-product. As well as leather coming at the cost of the animals whose lives have been lost, it also causes a great impact on the environment; and yet again, not in a positive way. The sole activity of raising animals for the use of leather is damaging to the environmentin short, cows produce methane which accelerates the process of climate change. Methane is one of the greenhouse gases and is known for trapping more heat in the atmosphere than CO2. Whilst the production of leather isn’t the only factor contributing to the rising heat of the atmosphere, on a global scale, livestock emits 14.5% of all greenhouse gases.

Throughout the process of producing animal leather, tanning is the most toxic. An incredibly high percentage of producers are still using chromium tanning which when emitted into the atmosphere, endangers the lives of animals and humans. The wastewater and even solids waste from these tanneries are most often dumped into nearby fields and rivers which then creates a cycle of water and soil pollution. The process of producing leather is one environmental concern after another! However, in recent years, alternatives to animal leather have been introduced- vegan leather. The most popular alternative leather is polyurethane, but it can also be made using more sustainable materials such as cork, fruit waste and mushrooms. These vegan alternatives to leather can save more than just animals but also our planet in protecting it from the harmful chemicals released during the production process. These solutions replicate the appearance of leather and can be engineered to feel like calfskin or sheepskin, whilst also outperforming it in durability and strength. This new material recently made its high-end fashion debut as an exclusive Hermes traveller bag. Hopefully this is just the start of the fashion industry choosing sustainability over the death of animals.

The cruel workshop

There she stood only 6ft away, The Mother of a calf who just wanted to play. Funeral bells start to ring, And that can only mean one thing. A Mother is led along to her grave, Whilst her baby can only try and be brave. Left to soon is her baby calf, At the young age of only 1 and a half.

All she can do is give a look of reassurance, But will her baby be safe? There is no assurance. Without a reason why, the handlers begin to pry, Burning her eyes with chillies, she watched her baby cry. Will this cycle of torture ever stop? Only we together can bring an end to this cruel workshop.

animal for every

people on the planet

were killed for leather in 2020

Taking Leather Global The largest leather producer in the world is China, who provides nearly 4 billion square feet of leather per year, Making up 25% of the worlds leather production. In comparison to this, the USA’s annual leather production is under 6.7million square feet. The carbon footprint of leather ranges between 65 to 150kg CO2 per square meter, so the effect the industry has on global warming is catastrophic. However, businesses have adapted to become more sustainable and use alternatives to leather. This is as it is becoming increasingly important for consumers to purchase sustainably.

Many countries have started to make a change in the way leather is used and produced to help their carbon footprint. For Example, the European market has different requirements for exporting leather. Any leather goods must comply with the REACH Regulation (registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals) so consumers know exactly what material they have purchased. Some European countries have mandatory labelling systems for leather products, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) means the use of endangered animals is restricted, including reptile leather and cobra varieties. Another way European brands are practicing sustainability in the leather industry is through chrome free tanning, a process used to make leather without chromium. This can be applied to vegetable and wet white tanned leather without being a concern to sustainability and consumer safety.

Due to the relatively cheap workforce in China, the country has become the largest producer of leather. However, the CLIA (China Leather Industry Association) has started to act on the effects the industry has on pollution. New chemicals have been developed to minimise the impact. PrimeAsia is one leather company which has tried to reduce their carbon footprint by reducing the amount of water used in their operations, only 1% of is used directly by PrimeAsia. Their efforts have been recognised and were awarded Global Tannery of the Year in 2013, Top Nike MSI Supplier, Chinese Leather Association Ecological Leather Title, Guangdong Province Clean Production Enterprise, and a Forest Footprint Disclosure Project Sector Leader.

In the USA, the leather industry peaked in 2014, meaning retailers switched to alternatives which are cheaper. This is because the prices of beef were increasing so consumers switched to other meats to eat like pork and chicken. Since leather is a coproduct of the meat industry this meant that fewer cows were being slaughtered, resulting in less leather. However, for leather producers this meant they could charge more. The laws in the US are similar to those in Europe as there are regulations in place for consumer safety, like the California Proposition 65. This limits substances which can lead to cancer and birth defects. Such as, Lead, Mercury and Leather dust.

In other parts of Asia such as India, Bangladesh and Pakistan the leather supplies are poorly managed. India is reported to have a child labour rate of 3.9%, while Bangladesh has a 4.3% rate. In India, there is access to 20% of the world’s cattle, suggesting there is a lot of potential for the leather market. The industry is extremely cruel to the cattle as they are made to walk many miles to be slaughtered, leading to the animals being so exhausted they are often dragged into the slaughterhouses. Some Indian businesses have switched to vegan alternatives such as Zouk, Ature and Hamelin. Bangladeshi leather is a major industry which provides many jobs due to there being over 200 tanneries. The Government are working towards becoming more sustainable. They created BSCIC Tannery Industrial Estate to prevent pollution of the Buriganga River. Businesses have also stopped using wild animal skins switching to domestic animals where the skin is left over from meat consumption.

THE SUSTAINABILIT Y OF THE LEATHER INDUSTRY Primary research was carried out in form of a questionnaire to determine and gage a general opinion of consumer attitudes towards the leather industry. Out of the 100 respondents, 75% of people were most concerned about the environmental impact, 13% about the social impact of the production of leather and 22% of people said they were not concerned at all. This shows that not everyone is entirely educated on the ethics of processing materials like leather but also calls for a massive change to the way we look after our environment. The survey also found that 58% of people believe vegan leather is better for the environment than the process of making normal leather, and 72% of people claimed that they would purchase vegan leather. This just goes to show how much unnecessary damaging we are causing our environment when there are much more sustainable options which people are open to as long as the quality of the material is not too dissimilar. The amount of water used, and toxic chemicals released into the atmosphere just provides more evidence for a change in consumer attitudes, and for people to be pointed in the direction of the ethical alternatives.

Do you purchase leather goods? 100 responses

Do you think the production of vegan leather is better for the environment than the production of normal leather? 100 responses How concerned are you about the impact of producing leather? 100 responses 5%

37%

40 35

58%

30 25

Would you consider buying vegan leather? 100 responses

20 15 10 5 0

“Change Is Inevitable, Growth Is optional.” -John C. Maxwell

Moooooo

D irty secret A I R I E S

Do you know where your leather goods are being sourced from? Despite misleading marketing, many parts of the world still mistreat and abuse animals to create items we love and use daily, with more than one billion animals being slaughtered for the leather industry every year. Demographically the UK has introduced many practices and animal welfare laws when using animal skin to make leather however, many unethically made products are still imported from South Africa, China and India. Many parts of these countries have little to no animal welfare laws, meaning leather can be produced cheaper on a mass scale as the time is not taken being humane to animals. Despite some laws being put in place many secret farms are still going unrecognised for their unethical practice. Through viewing the Netflix documentary “Cowspiracy: the sustainability secret” alongside many other you-tube documentaries it shares the brutality in which these animals face. In one ocassion cows in India were being forced to walk day and night without food or water and when refused faced consequences of having tails broken and chilli peppers rubbed in their eyes. Before reaching for the comfort of your family pet it’s not just cows being used for their leather, but cats and dogs too. It has been shown that many animals; including cows have complex relationships and even mourn the loss of others. When these animals are being slaughtered the emotions they feel is not dissimilar to what we feel when losing a friend or family. The whole process is not only unethically unsustainable but can cause environmental issues as formaldehyde; used to turn skin into leather releases toxic chemicals into the air. Formaldehyde has also been proven to cause some types of cancers in humans at high exposure levels. In order to be both ethically sustainable and eco-friendly being educated on what goes on behind closed doors and alternatives such as vegan leather is the best option as it prevents these farms profiting of the mistreatment of animals. However, for the leather lovers solutions could include looking into where their leather is being sourced from and animal welfare laws in that country, to stop supporting these secret animal farms.

The organisation PETA (people for the ethical treatment of animals) are dedicated to educating on animal cruelty. PETA carried out an investigation in Vietnam; a big supplier of snakeskin across the world and found evidence of animals being drastically abused. There was evidence of malnourished snakes being kept in dangerous small wire cages. When spoken to workers replied “What’s the point of treating the snakes? We skin them anyway.” This isn’t just parts of Asia it’s a worldwide issue needing to be tackled. Western Cape in South Africa is another example where ostriches have been tortured and underfed. Despite thinking ‘I don’t buy from cheap manufactures such as Shein and Primark’ many of these cruel unethical farms supply ostrich skins to luxury chains such as Hermès, Prada and other major fashion houses, emphasising the need to be aware when purchasing leather; even if they’re deemed luxury. From this remember what goes on behind closed doors, what animals go through everyday and change your actions to make the world a better place.

I O N P L LUT I D U O N S T R Y

The recent hype towards living a sustainable life has caused a major shift for the fashion industry with statistics showing that in the past year there has been an increase in consumers wanting to be more sustainable. figures show a 69% increase in online searches. According to Mintel databases, which conducted a survey of 1180 individuals, 18% of customers would buy plant-based items in 2021, and 36% will buy recycled products. However, there are still some buyers who are left wondering how much better vegan and plant-based leather options actually are for our environment compared to cow leather.

To give a sound answer, mushroom leather is entirely more beneficial for our environment. The process of making mycelium based leather is entirely organic, therefore there is no additional cost for lighting or other processes which helps result in little pollution. furthermore, the fungi is grown using waste such as sawdust which helps reduce the contribution to industrial waste.

BoldThreads, a company that has done a substantial study on Mylo by designing mycelium, has ensured that high-quality items are delivered and maintained while minimising environmental concerns. The CEO Dan Widmaier undertook the mission of fixing the lack of fabrics in the fashion industry but understands that it will take time to advance, he states “In a resource-constrained world, the time has come to develop smarter solutions through advanced science and a shared commitment to a better future”.

On the other hand, Mycelium leather is far from flawless, but neither was ani-mal leather, to begin with. Nonetheless, it’s a step in the right direction. Myce-lium requires a lot of water to develop, and there is still a lot to learn about the new bio-based substance but from what we can see, it sure offers a better im-pact on our environment as it doesn’t re-quire tanning or other harsh processes.

The question now lies upon whether as consumers are we prepared to move to a more environmentally conscious lifestyle. As claimed by the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, livestock accounts for 14% of global greenhouse emissions, with cattle accounting for the majority of that. Along with the global textile production accounts for 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 emissions annually, which is more than all international flights and shipping combined. It’s time to make a change.

A country in the spotlight is Bangladesh. Bangladesh is the world’s second-largest exporter of clothes and textiles. Their textile and leather industry employs around 4.5 million people, making it one of the country’s most vital sources of revenue. But in recent years the country has focused on help schemes such as the Circular Fashion Partnership which aims to help recycle all textile waste by pushing all post-production material back into the production line. With the government’s help plans and the “build back better scheme” Bangladesh is taking a leap forward with the aim of being a sustain-

able country and in line with their health care.

In terms of the future, we can see that there is hope for Gen Z. A recent survey showed in an investigation of 2000 people, 73% of people ages 16-19 believe sustainability is of most importance when shopping. From this, 21% showed that making fashion items out of plant-based leather was the best action a retailer could take. Taken from a recent interview conducted with a 19-year-old, a question was asked based on how they could encourage others to choose ethical and sustainable clothing over fast fashion. Their answer is that “if businesses could produce their high-end goods in a sustainable way, they would turn away from fast fashion, especially if the price remains similar.” Therefore, fixing the industry’s pollution and increasing public awareness of current challenges are the first steps toward a more sustainable industry. The rest is up to us.

THE ROOT TO THE SOLUTION

• Has the same look and feel of animalased leather • Tough, durable, and long lasting • Trays of mycelium can be grown in trays in a short amount of time, grown to order • Trays can be designed to fit designers’ exact specifications, therefore eliminating waste • Vegan, accessible to all religions and people • Solutions for climate crisis, animal agriculture, deforestation, methane emissions (livestock alone makes up nearly 15 percent of the globe’s greenhouse gas emissions) • Carbon neutral • Insulating, absorbing, antibacterial and antiseptic • Possibilities are endless • Only requires little time and attention • Reduce the need for industrial animal agriculture • Fully sustainable and biodegradable

F E N E B

H F S ITS O M U

M L O EATHER O R

Major fashion houses and brands such as Stella McCartney, Hermes, and Gucci’s parent company Kering are beginning to experiment with mushroom leather, with the aim of sharing the potential of this sustainable alternative to future generations and the rest of the industry. The possibilities of mushroom leather are endless. It is tough and durable and has the same look and feel as normal leather, perfect for handbags, coats, and other garments. Bolt Threads, the material start-up that introduced Mylo, partners with Stella McCartney to launch a new style of her iconic Falabella handbag. The bag was displayed at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum but not on sale to the public.

A good example of a high fashion brand experimenting with this leather alternative but not getting it quite right is Hermes. In March 2021, they debuted their Victoria bag. Like the Stella McCartney bag it featured mushroom leather, but they failed to be completely sustainable and vegan as it still contained calf-skin.

There has been criticism into how the alternative won’t make a big impact unless its more accessible to the public, so here are two other more commercial and accessible brands that have branched out to using mushroom leather. Lululemon the sports brands has made mushroom based yoga pants and bags featuring Mylo. A sign of their dedication and commitment to sustainability. Adidas has also released the first ever shoe to be made with mushroom leather. The stan smith was developed using the innovative creativity, working with nature rather than against it.

The fashion industry is one of the most wasteful and polluting industries in the world. By 2050 the fashion industry is on pace to triple its global production to more than 160 million tons of clothing, which in turn leads to a catastrophic level of emissions and pollution. Mushroom leather is proving its worth. It is a vital part of changing the fashion industries linier and outdated way of working and attempting to reduce the impact on the planet. The planet is desperate for something new.

BRANDS TAKING A STEP FOR SUSTAINABILITY

Pinatex is a leather alternative made from pineapple leaf fibres used to make shoes and other items. It not only is sustainable, but it also helps to support local farming communities by providing extra income for the material.

Cork leather is water resistant, natural fiber material that comes from cork oak trees. These trees have a lifespan of about 300 years and never stop producing cork. By wearing cork it prevents deforestation which inturn protects many endangered species.

LEATHER

Including mushroom leather, there are so many other sustainable alterative materials that don’t cost the planet. They are exciting, innovative and a creative use of natures gifts.

Another interesting alternative material which isn’t leather is spider silk. It is the most sought after biomaterial. The silk come from the glands of the spider and are the same material used when making a spiders web. It is lightweight and flexible but also one of the toughest materials in the world. Its used for making bulletproof clothing and also surgical thread. It has been featured in Vogue for many years and the possibilities are endless for both is and all other leather alternatives.

Waxed canvas is perhaps one of the more wellknown alternatives used in jeans and bags. It is diverse and protects you from the elements like leather would. It is also easier to clean than leather, leaving out all the chemicals and costs of normal leather.