GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
2014
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
[Drawing] Jeremy Collins
ALPINIST MAGAZINE
W
ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art in which every detail—from our extended photo captions to our carefully selected images and wellcrafted stories—merges into a single, harmonious whole. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty.
By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US.
Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $39
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ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
OUR VISION
A united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.
OUR MISSION
To support our shared passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb.
Welcome
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PAIGE CLAASSEN The AAC played a critical role in making my nine-month trip around the world a reality. I spent hours in the AAC Library combing through guidebooks and trip reports. The domestic and global rescue
MEMBER
assurance that I could get help in case of an accident in the middle of India or Ecuador. And with access to grants and community support, any climber can make their dream trip come true!
STORIES Jon Glassberg (LT11.com)
JAY GETZEL AAC community
the outdoors with those around us, and forged long-lasting professional relationships. Our summer 2013 climb was a great example of our “meetings on mountaintops” philosophy!
Jeremy Dodge
JANET B. WILKINSON I’ll be honest: I joined the AAC as a young dirtbag climber to increase my chances of getting a Mountaineering Fellowship grant the Club for so many other reasons. AAC programs—like the AAJ, rescue
stay connected with my tribe, and
MIRIAM NELSON world-class publications, gatherings, rescue insurance, and access was the original reason why my family joined the AAC. But what keeps us engaged is knowing that the AAC is committed to supporting young up-and-coming climbers. Opportunities for young climbers are so scarce, but critical, if we are to foster the next generation of
DEAN FLEMING From historic information and imagery the American Alpine Journal, the AAC collection of trip reports, high-quality manuscripts, audio recordings, and
Jim Thornburg
Chris Noble
DIERDRE WOLOWNICK
ALISON OSIUS
If it hadn’t been for the AAC Live Your Dream grant, I’d still be fantasizing about climbing in the ‘Gunks, and the
Years ago, when I was right out of women to climb in France, on an exchange that took us to Corsica, Buoux,
of climbing High Exposure would still be making me queasy. The AAC helped the AAC has supported conservation and that’s just part of what the AAC does for all of us as a community.
history, and helped send more climbers like me on their dream trips.
NICK CLINCH experiences. One of the earliest set
climber from the West Coast, I came to an annual meeting in Philadelphia to a roomful of highly respected me as an old friend. I immediately felt I belonged, and that feeling exists to this day. Welcome
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unbeatable grip terrex scope Dani Moreno and Edu Marin unlock Cordillera Blanca with the new Terrex Scope GTX速 featuring STEALTH rubber. Unlock your terrain.
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WELCOME THERE ARE MILLIONS OF CLIMBERS IN AMERICA. We’re the club for the passionate ones, and if you’re reading this, you’re one of us. We share an infectious love of climbing and believe we can accomplish more together than alone. We participate in making our climbing lives and landscapes better. We extend our care for one another beyond the length of a rope. With our members and volunteers leading the charge in and what we get done under the banner of the AAC. This is our third annual edition of the Guidebook to Membership. We like to think of it as our yearbook—a showcase of ordinary members doing extraordinary things within our community through collaboration and volunteerism. This year’s Guidebook has a greater focus on member stories. As you will see, the AAC’s rescue volunteer opportunities all have a tangible and profound impact on our members and our greater climbing world. Not only that, but getting together to climb and commune is pretty darn fun. We are able to do more than we’ve ever done before because bigger and better Club. I submit that our next task is to work ever more closely with other organizations, from the Access Fund to regional clubs and gyms, to think big. There are opportunities to work together to improve national climbing policy, education, and stewardship. You can count on the AAC to be at the center of a our passion for the vertical world that we all share so deeply. Happy climbing,
Phil Powers Executive Director, American Alpine Club
between AAC and 5Point. AAC member Dylan Hart
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GUIDE TO THE GUIDE 01
WELCOME
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1 mission
rescue
welcome 10 membership 12
climbing grants
lodging 38 discounts
14 ONE WAY OUT, by Phil Powers 18 POURING DOWN, RISING UP, by Tony Chang 32 BUILDING COMMUNITY IN SOLITUDE, by Cindi Squire
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COMMUNITY Community and competency strengthen and embolden us to push our limits. regions
trips
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THROUGH THE LENS
POWERED BY:
62 SLOPES TO ROPES, by Caroline Gleich 68 ROAD TRIP, by Forest Altherr
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KNOWLEDGE library
explore 80 museum 81 publications
74 BRINGING BACK ELLINGWOOD, by Dan Cohen
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2013: YEAR IN REVIEW 82 awards
grant winners
annual report
great ranges
donors
partners
ONE WAY OUT
POURING DOWN,
RISING UP
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BUILDING
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Slopes to Ropes
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community in solitude
ROAD TRIP BringingBackEllingwood
68 74 Welcome
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MEMBERSHIP Members of the American Alpine Club receive: • This Guidebook, the American Alpine Journal, and Accidents • • Member card that gives access to discounts, trips, and events • Library borrowing privilages by mail • Access to a network of 13,000+ members • Access to $100,000+ in climbing and conservation grants • Guidebook And as a member of the AAC, you’re part of a tribe that’s making a big
protect our climbing landscapes. MEMBERS ON AUTO-RENEW SAVE $10 PER YEAR.
REGULAR
$80/year
Members ages 29–65.
JUNIOR
$45/year
Members 28 and younger.
SENIOR
$55/year
Members 66 and older.
JOINT
$135/year
For two climbers: partners, spouses, residents of the same van, whatever.
LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP Show your dedication to the climbing community and support your fellow members and climbers for life. Dues are permanently waived after this LIFETIME $2,500 LIFETIME JOINT $4,000
AAC member Truc Allen Media
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americanalpineclub.org/join Welcome
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THE AAC BOARD OF DIRECTORS [HONORARY OFFICERS] Honorary President James P. McCarthy Honorary Treasurer Theodore (Sam) Streibert
[EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE] President Mark Kroese Vice President Doug Walker Secretary Clark Gerhardt Treasurer Paul Gagner
STAFF Phil Powers Executive Director ppowers@americanalpineclub.org Penn Burris Director of Operations / CFO pburris@americanalpineclub.org Erik Lambert Information & Marketing Director elambert@americanalpineclub.org Keegan Young Regional Programs & Development Director kyoung@americanalpineclub.org Dana Gerschel Library Director dgerschel@americanalpineclub.org IT Director Philip Swiny Facilities Director pswiny@americanalpineclub.org Shelby Arnold Museum Director sarnold@mountaineeringmuseum.org Allison Bailey Digitization Librarian abailey@americanalpineclub.org David Boersma Graphic Designer dboersma@americanalpineclub.org Whitney Bradberry Content Manager wbradberry@americanalpineclub.org Debbie & Gary Bunten GTCR Management Team
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Term Ending 2014 Clark Gerhardt Jamie Logan Dave Riggs
Term Ending 2016 Deanne Buck
Term Ending 2015 Brad Brooks Matt Culberson Karen Daubert Ken Ehrhart John Heilprin Rebecca Schild
Term Ending 2017 Janet Wilkinson Phil Lakin Kit DesLauriers
Chuck Fleischman
Western Regional Manager
Paul Nelson New River Gorge Campground Manager pnelson@americanalpineclub.org
Ben Edwards Development Coordinator bedwards@americanalpineclub.org
Adam Peters Rocky Mountain/Central Regional Manager apeters@americanalpineclub.org
Eddie Espinosa Northwest Regional Manager eespinosa@americanalpineclub.org
Erik Rieger Publications, Asst. Editor & Art Director erieger@americanalpineclub.org
Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal mountaininfo@btinternet.com
Remy Rodriguez Conservation & Volunteer Coordinator rrodriguez@americanalpineclub.org
Marketing Manager
Katie Sauter Library Manager ksauter@americanalpineclub.org
Vickie Hormuth Development Manager vhormuth@americanalpineclub.org
Lauren Shockey Membership Coordinator lshockey@americanalpineclub.org
Lisa Hummel Southeast Regional Manager lhummel@americanalpineclub.org
Jed Williamson Volunteer Editor, Accidents in North American Mountaineering
Carol Kotchek Accountant ckotchek@americanalpineclub.org Allie Levy Online Store Manager alevy@americanalpineclub.org Dougald MacDonald Executive Editor dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org Janet Miller Executive Assistant & Grants Manager
Buck Yedor Hueco Rock Ranch Assistant Manager byedor@americanalpineclub.org
INTERNS Michiko Arai Publications Intern Jonathon Braud Event Organizer Intern Online Media Intern
Chad Namolik Hueco Rock Ranch Manager cnamolik@americanalpineclub.org
Liz Regan Public Relations Intern
Jenn Flemming leading her clinic to the lower gorge during the NW Craggin Classic, Smith Rock OR. AAC member Truc Allen Media
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP 2014 WE SUPPORT AND PARTNER WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS
Editorial Director: Erik Lambert Editors: Whitney Bradberry, Andrew Tower Art Director: David Boersma Intern: The American Alpine Club 710 10th Street, Suite 100 Golden, CO 80401 Website: americanalpineclub.org Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. Copyright ©2014 The American Alpine Club. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Photographs copyrighted by photographer unless otherwise noted. [Cover] Megan Massey considers her options on Black and Tan (5.10) at the Oak Creek Waterfall, Arizona. AAC member Blake McCord • [Page 1] 2013 Live Your Dream Grant winners Eric Deschamps, Luis Cisneros, and Joel Unema approach Acopan Tepui. Along with Blake McCord they established a new free route Gravity Inversion (IV 5.12d, 18 pitches, 550m). AAC member Blake McCord Welcome
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O
ne of the things I have always respected in my climbing partners is the way they take responsibility for themselves. When we fail on a climb we own the failure. When it is our lead we get the rope up the next pitch. Our responsibility goes beyond the climbing itself. It extends to the things we do to prevent others from placing themselves in harm’s way or even worrying. That’s why we plan ahead and create contingency plans. That’s why we have a contact who knows where we are going, when to expect us home, and who to call if we’re not back on time. At the AAC we are able to go a step further. We extend a support system for one another by joining as members to make Global Rescue Even with thorough preparation, things can and do go wrong. In 2013 Global Rescue launched 19 missions to bring fallen AAC members to safety. Forty-eight in the last three years. In the vertical world, as we all know, a little mistake or surprise or medical emergency can have huge consequences. It happens to climbers young and old, and when it does, damn are we thankful that there’s a safety net. It even happens
Sometimes, there is only one way out. In the U.S. rescues are generally operated (and paid for) through federal agencies and county governments. When I fell 75 feet in Clear Flight for Life were all involved. Global Rescue was aware of my fall and watched from the background, ready to advise if necessary. Then, while I was unconscious in the hospital, Global Rescue experts called to check in with my doctors and my wife. They even supplied expert second opinions from Johns Hopkins. I don’t think this changed my treatment a bit—my doctors were great. But my wife and family knew there was an entire they needed it most. The AAC believes that one of our government’s responsibilities is search and rescue, and that victims should not be charged for those services. In our American tradition, when one of our own is lost in the wild, we go and get them. I believe that tradition is an essential American trait. We come get you. We have the resources to get it done, resources that are generally supported by volunteers. Indeed, searchand-rescue teams are heavily populated by climbers, again, expressing the kind of extended responsibility for one another I have witnessed so much in our community. And the last thing we want is for rescue to be withheld from those who can’t pay or for people to not call for help for economic reasons. We will continue to advocate for this stance, and in the meantime, if you’re a member and do have to pay for rescue costs in the U.S., the AAC will reimburse you up to $5,000—in addition to Global Rescue coverage. This year we’ve included a basic safety checklist and some reminders as a quick way to plan for the unplanned. These also live at americanalpineclub.org/rescue, and we always welcome your improvements. Even if you never need a rescue yourself, simply being an AAC you—personally, and on behalf of our 13,000+ active members. 14
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CHECKLIST Do you have a descent/retreat plan? Other contingency plans?
Does your emergency contact know where you’re going and when you’ll be back? Does your emergency contact know when you want to be considered overdue? Does your emergency contact know who to call if you are overdue? Do you have a way to call for help? Is your AAC membership up to date? Do you have Global Rescue (617-459-4200) and local emergency numbers handy? REMINDERS advice related to travel. Going on a big expedition? AAC members can (and should) upgrade their Global Rescue coverage at a 5% discount (see next page). time so they can prepare rescue assets. Call Global Rescue as soon as possible during an emergency. Global Rescue will provide medical advice when you’re in the
AAC member Andrew Burr
ONE WAY OUT by Phil Powers
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RESCUE $10,000 TO EVERY MEMBER AAC members in good standing are automatically enrolled in both a $5,000 Trailhead Rescue membership with Services to every member. Additional Global Rescue services can be purchased by AAC members at a discount.
TRAILHEAD RESCUE*
DOMESTIC RESCUE BENEFIT*
Trailhead Rescue service provides the member with $5,000 of coverage for rescue and evacuation by or under the direction of Global Rescue personnel.
rescue and evacuation costs incurred by members in the U.S.
BETA
BETA
• $5,000 Global Coverage • Step past the trailhead and you’re covered • Climbing, hiking, backcountry skiing, mountain biking, and more—if it’s land-based, human-powered, and you’re injured, you’re covered • No elevation restriction •
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To use the Trailhead Rescue service, members must call Global Rescue as soon as possible during an emergency. Call (617) 459-4200
• $5,000 Coverage • U.S. Only. Canada and Mexico excluded • Step past the trailhead and you’re covered • check • FILE CLAIM Call (303) 384-0110 or email claims@americanalpineclub.org
RESCUES IN 2013 In 2013, 19 members were rescued in 2013, thanks to AAC Trailhead
UPGRADE 5% discount. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/rescue.
* on that date.
AAC member Menno Boermans
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POURING DOWN,
RISING UP T We had already climbed Red Dihedral on The Incredible Hulk, the Harding Route on Keeler Needle, and Dark Star on Temple Crag. I had dreamed about climbing these routes since my infancy as a rock climber. And this was the last of Peter Croft’s “Big Four”—Mount Conness. As we dropped into one of the gullies to reach the base, its sheer 1,200’ southwest face bathed us in a shadow of intimidation. And there was one more reason Conness was last on our ticklist.
“I guess we found the route,” I said to Luke, pointing at the Goodrich Memorial. “Let’s just get it done with.” In 1959, after Warren Harding’s landmark ascent of the Nose, the southwest face of Mount Conness was a logical step to test the skills of Yosemite big-wall climbers. If siege tactics could work on El Capitan, why not this overhanging alpine face? Don Goodrich and Krehe Ritter, a
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to the challenge. On his maiden attempt of the wall, Goodrich pulled a pulled outward, it rolled over his body and crushed his skull on the wall. A few months later, Harding, Herb Swedlund, and Glen Denny made
tight and watched him take his time, clearly tired from the week, as he dissected delicate moves into the chimney. I followed, thankful I didn’t have to lead that terror show. I imagined how insane and improbable it was that Peter Croft onsight free soloed the beast.
wall, they made the two-day climb using the standard Harding method: lots of pitons, drilled bolts, and wine.
more victory pitches and a long walk back to the car before we could cash
greeted us with a wet mess, turning our 5.9 into something of a 5.10+ insecure slab. But Luke, the technician, took it down with a smile. If you met him on the street, you’d think of Luke as your standard white-collar desk jockey. He works as a research scientist for a landscape facade is a serious competitor and athlete. Having ticked 21 desert towers
anchor without raining rocks on our heads. “Looks like we got to the top just in time for a storm,” I said, nodding to dark clouds circling above.
“ 3,000’+ climbing days in the Sierra, Luke is no stranger to adventure and
great access to local climbing. Learning to climb in California, my most memorable, major climbing experiences had been winter ascents of peaks in the Sierra. Given our collective climbing backgrounds, Luke and I made a good match for a variety of objectives. We also shared a mutual motivation to be more like our climbing hero Peter Croft, so when I saw the Live Your Dream request for proposals, I approached Luke with the idea of climbing the Big Four. Somehow we landed the grant, and there we were: on a massive alpine face, our bodies tired and broken after so many days of technical climbing above 10,000 feet.
wild bit of rock climbing—one of those pitches that keeps you engaged physically and mentally the whole time. I heard Luke scream through the crux as he disappeared over a roof. Blistering sun hit me at 11 a.m. as I cruised up hand jams and
anything on this side of the valley.” He told us to walk up the 50 yards to the summit proper so he could take our victory photo.
in his voice. “I’ve been hearing it all day.” was sticking on end, face white, eyes bulging. “I just felt a shock go through my spine!” he yelled as he made a mad deafening. “Drop your gear!” Luke screamed as he threw his pack to the ground. tossed my pack under a boulder and made a run toward anything that looked like shelter just as it began to rain, thunder echoing above. “Dammit!” I yelled over to the guys. We were sheltered but stuck on the wrong side of the mountain with only 5th-class terrain below, so we’d never been too concerned about lightning before, having hiked around
lightning striking less than a mile away, closing in fast. down a bit to 5.8, a grade on which I’m considerably more comfortable. Unfortunately, the only protection I had was a green Big Bro and some janky bolts Warren Harding put up half a century ago. I placed the Big Bro after 20 feet, but accidentally kicked it out after climbing above it. I heard it twist and fall all the way down to my last cam. Awesome. The remaining 25 feet in fear and exhaustion to reach the belay, blood soaking through the legs of my pants. I looked like I had been in a motorcycle accident. Luke rocketed up, reminding me that I was probably looking at an 80-foot whipper if I didn’t make it. He led the last crux—the most intimidating part of the route—a steep face with an exposed step-across move into a chimney. When Luke got there, his last piece was a ways to his left, with a nasty pendulum into a wall if he blew it. I kept the belay
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metal could attract electricity. Cold rain hit us; we begin to shiver. During more intense, and my arm hair came back to life. “No! Go back down!” With lightning and virga drawing closer, we traversed the mountain in the rain looking for a shoulder to escape from. I fell a few times on the summit talus, and it was clear that all our options were too wet to negotiate. A howling wind spat hail and pushed us relentlessly. I commanded me to hunker back down. There was nothing to do but wait. [Opening Spread] Waiting out the storm. • [Facing Page] Tony Chang
OUR Y E LIV
M A E DR
TURER
DVEN
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ANT F
AC GR
THE A
AY A VERY-D THE E
d by
powere
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Your Nightmare. It was 15 more minutes of misery, shivering, and fear before the storm broke. This time the rain stopped. We took the opportunity to make another
around. We had survived the scariest half hour of our lives. The sun peeked out from the gaps in the clouds, and something changed. doubt. To use all the skills we had learned from a decade of climbing and get another great epic in before heading back to the “real world.” Perhaps it was never about climbing a handful of so-called classic peaks. We all love those bluebird days at the crag, catching some sun and climbing splitter pitches, but those aren’t the days you remember. It’s those times you had to bivy at 14,000’, happy to be alive the next day. It’s those times when you can’t get out of bed because of the 20 hours of hiking and climbing but never actually want to relive. This was one of those memories, one we will never forget.
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT All climbers have dreams. Let us help you live yours. The AAC Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face is designed to help you, the every-day adventurer, take your abilities to the next level.
BETA
• • Apply January 1 – March 1 • Winners announced 4–6 weeks after application period ends • All climbing disciplines welcome • Apply through your local region • Max grant amounts of $1,000
! TONY CHANG • Bozeman, MT Tony Chang became a member of the AAC in 2013 and currently lives in Bozeman. He is seeking his PhD in Ecology and Environmental Science, while
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americanalpineclub.org/liveyourdream
[This Page, Bottom] Tony Chang showing some grit. • [This Page, Top] Tony Chang and Luke Zachmann tackling the last of Peter Croft’s “Big [Facing Page]
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CLIMBING GRANTS $75,000 TO CLIMBERS EVERY YEAR These grants support climbers—young and old, amateurs and professionals—who are building skills and pursuing ambitions, or pushing the limits of exploratory climbing. Grant amounts vary annually. Amounts listed are what we expect to award in 2014.
APPLICATION DEADLINES JANUARY 1 MARCH 1
NOVEMBER 1 Live Your Dream Grants
APRIL 1 APRIL 15
DECEMBER 1 DECEMBER 31
BETA !
Copp-Dash Inspire Awards
americanalpineclub.org/grants (303) 384-0110
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARDS
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD
The Copp-Dash Inspire Award supports small teams who plan to personally document and share their ascents through multimedia. Trips focus on unclimbed objectives—in distant ranges and regions, requiring a high level of skill and commitment, and climbed in a fast, light, and clean style.
The Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award is for elite climbers who are pushing limits with the bare essentials. The Club awards $12,000 annually to three to six endeavors that best meet the criteria for “cutting-edge” climbing.
BETA
• $20,000 available • • • year awarded • Applicants need not be AAC members to apply
BETA
• $12,000 available • Apply by December 1 • Winners announced by February 1 • year awarded
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR MCNEILL-NOTT AWARDS
ZACK MARTIN BREAKING BARRIERS GRANT While climbing is awesome and all, helping people is even better. The Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant is a dual-purpose grant that focuses primarily on humanitarian objectives. The secondary objective may involve alpinism, ice climbing, or rock climbing.
BETA
• $2,500 available • Apply by April 15 • Winners announced by May 15
The McNeill-Nott Award gives grants to amateur climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small and lightweight teams. The award focuses on projects that have strong exploratory and adventuresome mountaineering objectives. These elements are more important than the technical rating of the technical rating of the climbing objective.
BETA
• $5,000 available • Apply by January 1 • Winners announced by March 1 • Expeditions depart the same calendar year
James Gustafson climbing Bugaboo Spire, Canada. AAC member Zach Clanton 24
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MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT Mountaineering Fellowship Grants encourage young American climbers age 25 years and under to go into remote be able to do. Apply to receive $300–800 to help cover travel, gear, or other expenses that will make your dream a reality.
BETA
• $9,200 available • Two chances to apply: April 1 and November 1 deadlines • Winners selected 6–8 weeks after each application deadline
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SHARED RESPECT FOR THE PLACES WE CLIMB. It’s part of the American Alpine Club mission. Since 2011 the AAC has worked with local climbing organizations to identify critical infrastructure projects that will improve, conserve, and protect our climbing resources for years to come. Over the past three years $75,000 has gone a long way. It’s helped local climbing communities build and maintain miles of trails and eliminate tons of human waste. The grant has also supported initiatives that will provide education and skills for countless climbers beginning to climb outdoors. The Cornerstone Conservation Grant grew out of a decade of AAC underwriting and volunteerism. Past AAC projects include new trails
and human-waste management policies at Castleton Tower and Indian Creek in Utah, a new human-waste management system in Grand Teton National Park, new trails and waste-management systems at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado, and the Clean Mountain Can program on Denali.
1 Southeast Climbers’ Coalition — Boat Rock Waste Management Solution — $7,500.
11 Washington Climbers’ Coalition — Permanent Vault Toilet at Frenchman’s Coulee — $5,000.
2 Climbing Resource Access Group VT — Bolton Quarry Driveway Restoration — $2,000.
12 Rocky Mountain Field Institute — Sustainable Access Trails at Indian Creek — $3,000.
3 Boulder Climbing Community — Stewardship and Human Waste Solutions in Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons, and Boulder Canyon — $1,975.
13 Gunks Climbers’ Coalition — Gym to Crag Education and Stewardship Program — $5,000.
4 Friends of Muir Valley — Muir Valley Parking Improvements & Expansion — $2,500. 5 Las Vegas Climbers’ Liaison Council — Red Rock Waste Bag Project — $1,320. 6 Carolina Climbers’ Coalition — Rumbling Bald GIS Mapping for Future Use Planning — $1,800. 7 Arkansas Climbers’ Coalition — Reducing Climber Impacts at Sam’s Throne Camping Area — $3,750. 8 Smith Rock Group — Smith Rock Spring Thing Trail Work Project — $4,155. 9 Salt Lake Climbers Alliance — Joe’s Valley Latrine Project — $2,500. 10 Friends of Muir Valley — Toilets at Muir Valley Nature Preserve and Climbing Arena — $5,000.
14 Rumney Climbers’ Association — Pack Out Project — $2,500. 15 Boulder Climbing Community — Front Range Trail Team — $2,000. 16 Salt Lake Climbers Alliance — Assessment of Informal Trails, Recreation Impacts at Boulders and Disperse Camping in Joe’s Valley — $6,800. 17 Washington’s National Park Fund — Camp Muir Human Waste Management — $5,500. 18 Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition — Repair Access Road, Build Two New Parking Lots — $5,500. 19 Las Vegas Liaison Council — WAG Bag Education and Awareness Project — $1,500. 20 Flatirons Climbing Council — Crown Rock Trail Project, 21 Ouray Ice Park — Non-permanent Toilet Installation — $4,200.
[This page, Left] A new toilet at Vantage, WA, thanks in part to an AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant. (#11) AAC member Kevin Newell • [This Page, Right] Gettin’ dirty at Muir Valley, KY. (#4) AAC member Anne Altor Collection Advocacy
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OURAY, CO: PAID FOR TOILETS TO KEEP OUR ICE CLEAN.
RUMNEY, NH: PACK OUT PROJECT TO ENSURE OUR ACCESS. 28
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The Cornerstone Conservation Grant funds essential improvements at climbing areas in the United States. Individuals or communities who see a need for local infrastructure can propose projects that will improve, conserve, and protect their climbing resources for years to come.
RAINIER, WA: HUMAN WASTE MANAGEMENT.
BETA
• $25,000 available • Apply by August 15 • Winners announced by October 1 • Multiple projects supported every year
GUNKS, NY: GYM TO CRAG EDUCATION PROGRAM. [Facing Page, Top] Ouray Ice Park, CO. (#21) AAC member Andrew Burr • [Facing Page, Bottom] Paul Robinson sending Jaws II (5.15a), Rumney, NH. (#14) AAC member Rich Crowder [This Page, Top] Daybreak at Mount Rainier. (#17) AAC member Peter West Carey • [This Page, Bottom] Modern Times (5.8) at the Gunks. (#13) AAC member Frank Tkac, Courtesy of Mohonk Preserve
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CONSERVATION GRANTS CLIMB FOR SCIENCE AND CONSERVATION Climbers have a unique ability to bring back data and documentation essential to our understanding of the changing natural world and to support scientists who simply cannot get to remote locations to collect data. The grants below can help you participate in solving problems we face as a planet:
APPLICATION DEADLINES APRIL 1 MARCH 1 AUGUST 15
BETA !
Kellogg/Fisher Conservation Grants Research Grants Cornerstone Conservation Grants
americanalpineclub.org/grants (303) 384-0110
SCOTT FISCHER MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT LARA-KARENA BITENICK KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT These grants fund expeditions that support and improve the health of mountain environments and habits.
BETA
• $400 & $1,000 • Apply by March 31 • Winners announced by May 31
[This Page] Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes in Peru in June. AAC member Clinton Lewis • [Facing Page] ACSP volunteers make their way along the false summit’s overhanging snow pack to a thin ridge leading to the true summit of Andavite (5,518m/18,104’). AAC member Clinton Lewis
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RESEARCH GRANTS The Research Committee of the American Alpine Club administers funds from two endowments: The Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Research Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund. Through these research projects within the scope of the AAC’s charter.
BETA
• $8,800 • Apply by March 1 • Winners announced by May 1 • Applicants need not be AAC members to apply
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New!
BUILDING
community in solitude
by Cindi Squire, photos by Joe Stock
ituated on the northern edge of the Snowbird Glacier, the view from the Snowbird Hut is 360 degrees of pure, uninhabited mountains.
S
Overlooking the entire valley are the sharp peaks of Higher Spire and Lower Spire. A nunatak splits the slowly receding glacier and the Because It’s There Wall, containing several routes 5.9 and up, looms over the glacier. Head any direction for snowshoeing, scrambling, and skiing over pristine lines in smooth snow touched by few. In summer you will see the
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golden eagle sailing overhead, and you’ll scare the ptarmigan early May to late September and sprout from the earth like a tiny stunted rainbow pinned to the ground by warm rays of sun.
Old.
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The hut is by far the most remote of AAC-owned lodging properties and came into existence because a small community of outdoor enthusiasts had a great idea and were not afraid to act Hatcher Pass area, so when Dave Stahlie wanted to sell his permit and the old hut, AAC Alaska Section Chair Harry Hunt and member Cory Hinds jumped at the opportunity. They inspected the structure before to rebuild the old hut was granted, and a permit was issued to the AAC to help aid in the process and upkeep. Harry (our wood artisan) and Cory are all-around excellent mountaineers and rock and ice climbers. Along with James Brady we had three hands-on engineers. Fundraising is my forte, so I joined the team and helped them raise the money to build a glossy new hut right next to the old one. A little rag-tag perhaps, but our team was totally dedicated and focused. We started building the hut before the funds even came in. Soon though the tiny community in Alaska responded. The local rock gym sponsored our pig-roast fundraiser two years in a row. We hosted speakers and movie screenings, and even worked in conjunction with a local foundation to secure a grant. In the end we raised $40,000. Over the next two years volunteers from all over Alaska converged and donated time and labor to build the new hut. It’s an incredible work for two or three days chucking granite rocks, pounding nails, and raising walls only to leave, come back, and do it all over again. Now, more than ever, the Snowbird Hut is a part of the AAC’s growing legacy. Every time I go to the hut there are new, wonderful entries in the logbook detailing excursions, growth, love of adventure and the outdoors, and the experiences that unite us as a community. I am reminded time and again that the work you put in as a volunteer is returned tenfold, be it a thank-you note from a new hut member or worthwhile.
CINDI SQUIRE • Anchorage, AK Cindi moved to Alaska in 1970 and was hooked on the outdoors at the
[Opening Spread] Harry Hunt and Cindi Squire passing the old Snowbird Hut to work on the new • [This Page, Bottom Left] Cindi Squire approaching the Hut. • [This Page, Right] Harry Hunt and Cindi Squire unveiling the counter at the new Hut. • [Facing Page, Top] Harry Hunt cutting plywood • [Facing Page, Bottom] A cozy retreat.
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“
THE HUT IS BY FAR THE MOST REMOTE OF AAC-OWNED LODGING PROPERTIES AND CAME INTO EXISTENCE BECAUSE A SMALL COMMUNITY OF OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS HAD A GREAT IDEA AND WERE NOT AFRAID TO ACT ON IT.
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LODGING LODGING NEAR GREAT CLIMBING The AAC creates and supports facilities in locations that add opportunities for climbers to pursue their dreams, gather, and share their experiences. and around the world.
GRAND TETON CLIMBERS’ RANCH
NEW RIVER GORGE CAMPGROUND
Located just south of Jenny Lake and four miles north of the Park accessible lodging for climbers visiting Grand Teton National Park.
The AAC campground at the New River Gorge resides in Fayatteville, WV, on a 40-acre parcel adjacent to National Park land and within walking distance of popular crags at the New River Gorge.
BETA
BETA
1. $16/night for AAC members, $25/night for non-members 2. Open June 7 through September 12 3. Climbers must supply their own sleeping bags, pads, cooking equipment, food, towels, and other personal gear 4. To minimize impact on the surrounding environment, tent and trailer camping is not available 5. Work Week is June 2–6, 2014
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lodging.americanalpineclub.org
1. 2. 3. 4.
Members receive discounted rate 40 campsites No RV accomodations Visit website below for reservation information, rates, directions, and months open
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lodging.americanalpineclub.org (303) 384-0110
(307) 733-7271 June 7 through September 12 only!
SNOWBIRD HUT
GUNKS CAMPGROUND
The Alaska Section’s Snowbird Hut is beautifully situated in the Talkeetna Mountains on the northern edge of the Snowbird Glacier.
The new campground includes roughly 50 drive-in and walk-in campsites within walking distance to the popular climbing area, the Shawangunks, in New York. Construction is moving along well with an expected opening in the late summer/fall of 2014.
BETA
1. 2. 3. 4. No commercial operations
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americanalpineclub.org/p/snowbird-hut
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BETA
1. Check the website for upates on progress and opening
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lodging.americanalpineclub.org (303) 384-0110
LODGING NETWORK AAC members have discounted access to dozens of huts in Canada, Europe, New Zealand, Nepal, and more. For information on how to
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HUECO ROCK RANCH The Ranch is, hands down, the best place to stay if you’re climbing in Hueco. Located outside El Paso, TX, and just a mile from Hueco Tanks—the best bouldering on the planet—the Ranch is the perfect spot to set up shop and hang with your fellow climbers.
BETA
1. Check the website for the most recent information and pricing
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lodging.americanalpineclub.org (915) 856-7181 mid-November through end of March only!
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DISC0UNTS GYM & GUIDE DISCOUNTS* We’ve listed gym and guide discounts regionally
FEATURED MEMBER GEAR DISCOUNTS 50% OFF
40% OFF
45% OFF
25% OFF
20% OFF
ONLINE RETAILERS
through the AAC.
restrictions.
AAC ONLINE STORE
MAGAZINE DISCOUNTS* Media Partners like these magazines help support the mission of the American Alpine Club, as well as providing members with these great discounts. See page 94 for a list of our current Media Partners.
1 year, 4 issues, $39.95
1 year, 8 issues, $9.95
1 year,10 issues, $12.95
1 year, 9 issues, $9.99 & a free gift: Classic Trails digital booklet
*Member discounts are subject to change. Discount percentages listed are approximations and may not apply to every product. Though we try to provide you with accurate information, we cannot guarantee you will receive the discount rates listed here or on our website.
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AAC member Truc Allen Media
BETA ! Having trouble? Call us at (303) 384-0110
GEAR DISCOUNTS* Gnarly Rocky Mountain Underground
Rockwell Sea to Summit Selk’ bag Slumberjack Spyderco
Ortlieb Red Wing Shoes
Adventure Medical Kits Gibbon Slacklines Klean Kanteen Matrix Audio Sierra Designs Ultimate Direction Zamberlan ZEAL Optics
Olomomo Nut Company Patagonia Rock-Slide Engineering Suunto
Rack Attack Kammock Pivothead Rand McNally Rave Sports
Cloudveil DeFeet First Light USA Swiftwick Wigwam
BlueCosmo Satellite Communications Evolv iClimb.com Top of the World Books Online Retailer Discounts Backcountry
The Clymb Julbo
Beacon Audio Braven Bully Dog Burley Gaerne Cycling Gregory GU Energy Icebreaker Kelty Minus33 PROBAR Rebootizer
Asana DeLorme Fixehardware Hincapie Sportswear Mountainsmith Sharp End Publishing Vigilante
Competitve Cyclists
Dogfunk
Mountain Gear American Alpine Club Store Brooks-Range Mountaineering Light & Motion Mountain Hardwear NEMO Equipment
Mountain Tools
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NORTHWEST
REGION
Over the past century, the Northwest Region has been a stronghold of the American Alpine Club and played host to some of the most important alpine local personalities. Members in the Northwest Region have a particular interest in conservation—recently building toilets at Vantage and constructing trails at Smith Rock—as well as community traditions such as the Send & Social (Cascade Section) and Pub Night (Oregon Section).
NORTHWEST REGIONAL MANAGER EDDIE ESPINOSA
eespinosa@americanalpineclub.org
ALASKA
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/alaska Alaska Co-Chair Harold Hunt • Anchorage, AK Co-Chair Cindi Squire • Anchorage, AK
CASCADE
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/cascade
VOLUNTEER STORIES JESSE BERNIER I love volunteering for the American Alpine Club because I’m a “you scratch my back, I’ll scratch yours” kinda guy. The AAC has been proverbially scratching my back for years as well as thousands of my brethren since 1902! Being the stereotypical dirtbag, my funds are usually pretty low. For the cost of about all the guidebooks ever made, grants to do what I love, and discounts on the things I need! On top of that I get a beautiful book reviewing the gnarliest things that happened in climbing that year and another book reminding me ways to stay safe out there. The AAC is essentially my “sugar momma!” At my home crags the AAC has made many positive impacts. At the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic, we’ve built and maintained critical trails. This past spring, I wanted to celebrate the end of the seasonal closure at my beloved Trout Creek with a party. The fantastic time and will only get better as the years go on. Whenever I volunteer for an AAC event I know I’m guaranteed to laugh and commune with my tribe. It’s a unique moment to be in one spot with hundreds of individuals who share the same passion. Oh, and the free beer’s usually a pretty good perk.
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Washington Chair Joshua Brandon • Lacey, WA
IDAHO
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/idaho Idaho Co-Chair Kammie Cuneo • Star, ID Co-Chair Jason Luthy • Sandpoint, ID
MONTANA
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/montana Montana Chair Kevin Brumbach • Bozeman, MT
OREGON
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/oregon Oregon Co-Chair Jesse Bernier • Bend, OR Co-Chair Heidi Medema • Portland, OR
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LODGING 1
Mountain Shop 13 International Mountain Guides Ashford, WA. AMGA Accredited.
North Cascades Basecamp Mazama,
GYM DISCOUNTS 2
Mazama Lodge Government Camp,
3
AAC Snowbird Hut Talkeetna Range,
5 6
9
Seattle Bouldering Project Seattle, WA
14 Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS)
15 Alaska Mountain Guides and Climbing School (AMG) Haines, AK.
10 Warehouse Rock Gym Olympia, WA
DISCOUNTS 4
Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 8 Edgeworks Climbing Gym Tacoma, WA
Feathered Friends price item. 119 Yale Ave., North Seattle, WA 98109. Second Ascent
16 American Alpine Institute Bellingham, WA. AMGA Accredited. alpineinstitute.
GUIDE SERVICES Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 11 Mountain Madness Seattle, WA. 10%
BlueCosmo Satellite Communications
MAJOR AAC EVENTS
AMGA Accredited. mountainmadness.
17 Craggin’ Classic
12 Alpine Ascents International Seattle, WA. AMGA Accredited. alpineascents.
9 16 12
10 14
4
11
5
3 15
1
13
8 7
2
6
17
[Facing Page] AAC member Jesse Bernier collection [This Page] Relay at an AAC Send & Social. AAC member Truc Allen Media Community |
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WESTERN
REGION
The AAC’s Western Region is the proud home to countless peaks, crags, boulders, and big walls of legendary status. Breeding ground for the Golden Age of come together to share in community, push limits, and explore the limitless potential of the vertical world around them. With a strong emphasis on conservation, members regularly gather to keep our climbing areas clean and trails maintained, and then down some beers when the work is done.
WESTERN REGIONAL MANAGER JEFF DEIKIS
jdeikis@americanalpineclub.org
ARIZONA
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/arizona Arizona Co-Chair Erik Filsinger • Scottsdale, AZ
HAWAII
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/hawaii Hawaii The Hawaii Section is currently lacking a chair. E-mail volunteer@americanalpineclub.org
VOLUNTEER STORIES HARRISON HOOD I have been an American Alpine Club member for the better part of the last 20 years. and held the rope for friends in Truckee. What makes climbing so great for me is the quality of the community that supports it. Climbers are my extended family, and volunteering with the AAC is a way to give back rewarding. I’ve found lifelong friendships and kindred spirits. To come together with these amazing people for a common cause brings wholeness to my connection with Volunteerism is the glue that makes the AAC and the climbing community so strong. When we add our own small part to what all the other volunteers do, big things can and do happen.
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SIERRA NEVADA
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/sierranevada Northern California, Northern Nevada Chair Karen Zazzi • Sacramento, CA
SOUTHWEST
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/southwest Southern California, Southern Nevada Co-Chair Jim Pinter-Lucke • Claremont, CA Co-Chair Tony Yeary • Arcadia, CA
WESTERN REGION GRANTS John L. Horn Sport Climbing Grant For more information, go to: americanalpineclub.org/grants
9
CLIMBING GYMS Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 1
Hanger 18 Riverside
10 Hanger 18 Upland Upland, CA (909) 11 Threshold Climbing Gym Riverside, CA
2
Phoenix Rock Gym
3
Boulderdash Indoor Rock Climbing
4
Sanctuary Rock Gym Sand City, CA
5
Planet Granite San Francisco San
6
Planet Granite Belmont Belmont, CA
7
Planet Granite Sunnyvale Sunnyvale,
8
Hanger 18 South Bay L.A. Hawthorne,
12 Solid Rock San Marcos San Marcos, CA 13 Solid Rock Old Town San Diego, CA 14 Solid Rock Poway
19 Rocknasium 2902. 20 21 Touchstone Climbing Berkeley Ironworks 9900. 22 Touchstone Climbing Sacramento Pipeworks
17 Vital Climbing: Carlsbad Carlsbad, CA
23 Touchstone Climbing Diablo Rock Gym 24 Touchstone Climbing Great Western Power Co. 2022. 25 Touchstone Climbing Metal Mark Climbing + Fitness
18 Granite Arch Climbing Center Rancho
26 Touchstone Studio Climbing San
15 Vertical Heaven Indoor Rock Climbing Gym 16 Vital Climbing: Murrieta Murrieta, CA
27 Touchstone Climbing Dogpatch Boulders
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23 22 18 21
5
28 Touchstone Climbing LA Boulders
30 19
6
20
7 26 3 8
4 15
29 Sender One
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GUIDE SERVICES
25
10
1
9 11
29 28
17 12
Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 30 Alpine Skills International Truckee,
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24
14
16 13 31
31 The Climbing Life Guides Joshua Tree, CA. theclimbinglifeguides.com
2
MAJOR AAC EVENTS 32 International Climbers’ Meet:
33 Craggin’ Classic Fall Highball: Bishop, [Facing Page] AAC member Harrison Hood collection [This Page] Timothy Leary Presents, in the Buttermilk Pollen Grains. Community |
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ROCKIES
REGION
The Rocky Mountain Region spans Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, and New Mexico and encompasses spectacular and iconic climbing areas like Indian activity in the Rockies has grown substantially, with a host of new volunteers taking the lead. From a burgeoning New Mexico Section, to the with the AAC in the Rocky Mountains.
ROCKIES / CENTRAL REGIONAL MANAGER ADAM PETERS
apeters@americanalpineclub.org
Adam Peters spent his early climbing days running up and down the granite crags and domes of the Wichita Mountains in his home state of Oklahoma. After graduating from Oklahoma City University School of Law in 2006 he relented a career in law and moved to Golden, Colorado to pursue the climbing lifestyle in full. As a co-founder of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas, Adam revels in a good ole fashioned climber gathering. While his current appetite for rock climbing endeavors involves clipping bolts he can also be found returning to his Okie roots by plugging and chugging up gear routes. It’s even rumored that he’s been known to clamber up an alpine route or two in the Front Range of Colorado. Adam is absolutely ecstatic to be a part of the AAC team and represent the Rocky Mountain and Central Regions and their local communities. Jenn Flemming served as Rocky Mountain Regional Coordinator for more than two years and will be moving on in early 2014. Thank you for your service, Jenn!
FRONT RANGE
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/frontrange Eastern Colorado Chair Carol Kotchek • Louisville, CO
NEW MEXICO
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/newmexico New Mexico Chair Pat Gioannini • Las Cruces, NM
UTAH
VOLUNTEER STORIES
americanalpineclub.org/p/utah
ERIN DEMARCO
Utah
Volunteering at the AAC is all about bringing people together and being a bigger part of our club. My favorite part has been meeting new people, especially because AAC members are inspirational, motivated, and love to climb and have fun! For me, as someone new to climbing, these opportunities are a wonderful way to meet veteran climbers who know the ropes and like to get outside. Helping put together the Front Range Climbing Posse has been the highlight of my volunteering experience—and a great example of how the AAC promotes community. We get together periodically on weekends or after work to climb and meet new partners. Getting involved is easy, and I get far more out of my membership that way.
ROCKIES REGION GRANTS
Chris “Haliku” Pruchnic Wilderness First Responder Training Grant For more information, go to: americanalpineclub,org/grants
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SECTION
Chair Blake Summers • Midway, UT
WESTERN SLOPE
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/westernslope Western Colorado Chair Lee Jenkins • Buena Vista, CO
WYOMING
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/wyoming Wyoming The Wyoming Section is currently lacking a chair. E-mail volunteer@americanalpineclub.org
[This Page] collection [Facing Page] Chris Sharma Gathering. AAC member Kirsten Ellis
Lodging 1
Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Grand See
CLIMBING GYMS Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 2 The Spot Bouldering Gym Boulder, CO 3
Boulder Rock Club Boulder, CO (800)
4
Rock’n Jam’n: Thornton Thornton, CO
5
Rock’n Jam’n: Centennial Centennial,
6
Earth Treks Climbing Centers: Golden
7
The Mine Bouldering Gym Park City,
GUIDE SERVICES
13 Southwest Adventure Guides swaguides.com. 14 Boulder Mountain Institute bouldermountaininstitute.com.
MAJOR AAC EVENTS 15 Craggin’ Classic: Salt Lake City—Sept. 6.
8
1 9
7 15
14 11
9
2
6
Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 8 Exum Mountain Guides Jackson, WY. exumguides.com. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides.
10 3 5
12
4
13
10 Colorado Mountain School Estes Park, totalclimbing.com. 11 Alpine World Ascents Front Range, CO. 12 San Juan Mountain Guides Ouray,
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CENTRAL
REGION
under wraps. Head down to the newly renovated AAC Hueco Rock Ranch and spend a week or two sampling the world’s best bouldering. Venture up to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Whether it’s partying down for the annual Hueco Rock Rodeo in Texas or a BBQ with climbing pals in the North Central section, there are plenty of ways to get out and meet members in the Central Region.
GREAT LAKES
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/greatlakes
JEREMY COLLINS When I was little, my brothers and I tromped through the woods looking for animals, making forts, and imagining we were Indians. We found other little dirty friends who
Michigan, Ohio, Indiana
VOLUNTEER STORIES
Chair Bill Thompson • Marquette, MI
HEARTLAND
americanalpineclub.org/p/heartland Kansas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Missouri Chair Jeremy Collins • Kansas City, MO
MIDWEST
Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Illinois Chair Ray Kopcinski • Orland Park, IL
NORTH CENTRAL
americanalpineclub.org/northcentral Chair Mark Jobman • Rapid City, SD
texas
a position as a Section Chair. I thought, “that sounds cool.” And it is. My favorite part of the gig is hosting and attending community events (aka dirtbag parties) where we can share a kindred spirit towards adventure, stories, and a belonging. Like a posse. So yeah, I’m still scrambling through the woods getting dirty, and the AAC is my posse.
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/texas Texas The Texas Section is currently lacking a chair. E-mail volunteer@americanalpineclub.org
3
Lodging AAC Hueco Rock Ranch Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
DISCOUNTS
4
Hueco Rock Rodeo:
[This Page] AAC member James Q Martin [Facing Page] Goin’ big at the Dyno Comp during the 21st annual Hueco Rock Rodeo.
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Down Wind Sports
MAJOR AAC EVENTS
Community
SECTION
North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska
and found a community
3
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/midwest
an unstoppable posse. Eventually we grew up, and I started climbing rocks and making art. The rocks got bigger and so did the obligations
1 2
SECTION
1
4
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NORTHEAST
REGION
Atlantic, Metro New York, Upstate New York, and New England. Many AAC members are active in more than one section, participating in events like
NORTHEAST REGIONAL MANAGER SARAH GARLICK Sarah Garlick is a climber based out of North Conway, NH. Originally from North Carolina, Sarah learned to climb in New England, getting her start bouldering in Lincoln Woods, RI in the late 1990s. She’s since explored mountains and crags around the world, from the walls of Yosemite to the alpine peaks of Patagonia, and from new free routes in Newfoundland and Flakes, Jugs & Splitters: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Geology Award. Sarah has been deeply involved in the Northeast climbing community for many years. She has served on the Board of Directors of the Kismet Rock Foundation and the Upper Saco Valley Land Trust, and she’s been the director of the Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival and International Mountain Climbing School’s Women’s Rock Weekend. Sarah lives in North sgarlick@americanalpineclub.org
Sarah will be moving on in early 2014. Thank you for your service, Sarah!
METRO NEW YORK
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/metronewyork Chair Phil Erard • New York, NY
MID-ATLANTIC
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/midatlantic
VOLUNTEER STORIES ANNE SKIDMORE Hi, my name is Anne and I live in Madison, NH—a special place with a great climbing fellow climbers in the Northeast. I also have helped put on the Mount Washington Valley (MWV) Ice Festival for the past seven years. The festival’s mission is to bring together climbers of all abilities to celebrate the adventure, fun, and camaraderie of ice climbing. When I learned about the AAC’s Live Your Dream grant program I knew same goal: to get climbers outside. Whether they’re young or old, new to climbing or going big, Live Your Dream supports them—it’s a pretty unique and awesome thing. Raising money for the grant not only makes more dreams come true, but it also helps make MWV the special event that it is. It’s been amazing to grow the grant and see how those contributions directly impact climbers in our region. Way to go supporters, grant winners, and the AAC!
New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware Co-Chair Jim Kunz ª Pittsburgh, PA Co-Chair Barry Rusnock, Hackettstown, NJ
NEW ENGLAND
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/newengland ME, NH, VT, MA, RI, CT Chair Nancy Savickas • Weymouth, MA Vice Chair Rick Merritt • Norwell, MA Ambassador Jimmy Voorhis • White River Junction, VT
UPSTATE NEW YORK
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/upstatenewyork Co-Chair Will Roth • Lake Placid, NY
[This page, bottom] • [Facing page] VICE Festival attendees cheer for Kearney Koghlan and Maryanna Saenko in a arm wrestling match in North Woodstock, NH. MacLellan 48
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Co-Chair Mark Scott • Westport, NY Ambassador Carolyn Riccardi • New Paltz, NY
LODGING 1
AAC Gunks Campground New Paltz,
2
Appalachian Mountain Club Facilities AMC member rates in all AMC huts and
3
The Keene Farm. Keene, NY. ACC
4
alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility. Greenmont Farms Smuggler’s greenmontfarms.com.
DISCOUNTS 5
MAJOR AAC EVENTS
GUIDE SERVICES Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 14 High Peaks Mountain Guides
19 hpmountainguides.com. 15 Kingdom Adventures Mountain Guides kamountainguides.com. 16 Alpine Endeavors Rosendale, NY.
(featuring Reinhold Messner): Jan.
alpineendeavors.com. 17 Ragged Mountain Guides Ragged
4
raggedmountainguides.com.
Top of the World Books Hinesburg, VT.
GYM DISCOUNTS
18 Craggin’ Classic: North Conway—Sept.
3
6
18 8
14
Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 6 7 8 9
Green Mountain Rock Climbing: Rutland Green Mountain Rock Climbing: Hartland Rock Spot: Lincoln
10 Rock Spot: Boston 11 Rock Spot: Peace Dale South
15
5
7 1 19
12 10
2 16
17
11
13 9
12 Evolution Rock & Fitness Concord, NH. 13 Carabiner’s Indoor Climbing New
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SOUTHEAST
REGION
Welcome to the Southeast! From sandstone boulders in Alabama to granite domes in North Carolina, our neck of the woods is geologically diverse, AAC New River Gorge Climbers’ Campground, and now represented by Regional Coordinator Lisa Hummel, the AAC is going big in the Southeast. Members in the Southeast have a particular interest in access. Along with local climbing organizations and the Access Fund, we are making huge strides with land managers and owners to resolve these issues and safeguard our climbing areas.
SOUTHEAST REGIONAL MANAGER LISA HUMMEL
lhummell@americanalpineclub.org
Originally from Milwaukee, WI, Lisa has spent over the last decade (more or less) living and climbing in the Southeast. She began climbing while studying Cultural Anthropology at Appalachian State University in Boone, NC. While the southeast is at the core of Lisa’s climbing experience, occasionally traveling nationally and internationally to climb continues to fuel her passion for being part of the amazing climbing community. Locally, regionally, nationally, and internationally, climbers share similar stories, goals, and values that Lisa relates to. As the AAC’s Southeast Regional Manager, Lisa continues her commitment and passion for the climbing community through local climber gatherings, support of meaningful projects, and partnerships with local climbing organizations. Connecting with fellow climbers, volunteers, and local climbing organizations crystalize both the importance of, and responsibility for our collective climbing community; looking out for one another, perpetuating good ethics, and challenging each other to live our dreams keeps us strong… so do push-ups.
DAVID THOENEN
DEEP SOUTH
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/frontrange
A decade ago, back when the AAC clung to a barely visible presence in the Southeast, it occurred to a new member (me) that it would be fun to gather local members and socialize over Carolina barbecue and beer on my patio. On our own initiative, we
Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Florida Michael Kidder • Nashville, TN
SOUTHERN APPALACHIAN
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/southernappalachian West Virginia, Virginia,
me, I met lots of new climbing friends. I wanted more, so I volunteered more time as Section Chair to help
VOLUNTEER STORIES
Section, most initiated by grassroots volunteers and all powered by AAC volunteer energy. Motivated by a tragic rappelling death at a local crag, in the fall of 2012 we formed climbers avoid rappelling accidents. This local initiative, the Know the Ropes Rappelling Best Practices Clinic, is intended to assist climbers in making a safer transition from the gym to the crag. The clinic is free for all climbers, regardless of AAC membership status. personally been enriched by a strong sense of contribution to the climbing community and pride in the results.
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North Carolina, South Carolina Chair Danny McCracken • Cary, NC
WASHINGTON D.C.
SECTION
americanalpineclub.org/p/washingtondc Maryland, Washington D.C., Northern Virginia Co-Chair David Giacomin • Washington D.C. Co-Chair Simon Carr • Washington D.C.
[This Page] collection [Facing Page] Dan Brayack on
LODGING
MAJOR AAC EVENTS
1
12 Craggin’ Classic: New River Gorge—
2
AAC New River Gorge Campground Fayetteville, WV. The Crash Pad Chattanooga,
1
12 8
crashpadchattanooga.com.
GYM DISCOUNTS Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 3 The Crag 4 Stone Summit 9882. 5 Urban Rocks 6
Earth Treks Climbing Center: Columbia
7
Earth Treks Climbing Center: Timonium
8
Earth Treks Climbing Center: Rockville TBA
9
7
6
3 9
10
2 4
11
5
GUIDE SERVICES Discounts vary. Check AAC website. 10 Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School Pisgah Forest, NC. foxmountainguides.com 11 Vertical Medicine Resources
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MEMBERSHIP
THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
This is your Club. These are your photos. We are the AAC. We are climbers, stewards of the outdoors. We are doers. And what we do tends to be uncommonly photogenic. Flip through for exposure to other AAC members in action, doing what they love.
Want to see your photos in next year’s Guidebook to Membership? Send to photo@americanalpineclub.org
Indian Creek, UT 52
AAC member Niko Monteiro
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Bishop, CA 54
MEMBERSHIP
THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
Eastern Sierra, CA Climb hard, party harder.
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MEMBERSHIP
THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
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Pallisades, Sierra Nevada, CA It ain’t over till it’s over. AAC member Ken Etzel
Fisher Towers, UT Laura Sasso gets crafty on the uber-classic, Ancient Art. AAC member Chris Vultaggio
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THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
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[Top] Travis Powell gets the glory shot on the AAC member Zach Clanton
Ouray, CO [Bottom] Who needs ice anyway? AAC member Andrew Burr
Yosemite National Park, CA [Bottom] “Dude, you forgot the olives!” Instructions from the photographer: “Alpine pizza is all about a careful folding & wrapping
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THROUGH THE LENS POWERED BY:
1. Stansbury Island, UT Zac Robinson and Kenneth successfully descend from a AAC member Craig Armstrong 2. Little Rock City, TN
3. North Woodstock, NH AAC member Ian MacLellan 4. Bartlett, NH Classic. 5. Yosemite National Park, CA
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Slopes to Ropes A pro skier seeks a lesson in climbing and discovers the unexpected.
by caroline gleich
Y
ou know when you talk to someone about doing something, but it never happens? I hate that. Which is precisely why I was standing on top of the Grand Teton with this almost-stranger.
Nate Smith was an energetic instructor from Mountain Education and Development. We met at the Craggin’ Classic in Salt Lake City in my opportunities for training and mentorship that would allow me to take my ski mountaineering to the next level. I’d been skiing for 25 years
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and knew that you could access a lot of places with skis—but the truly amazing ones require climbing. Nate was so into his craft. He had an answer for every one of my
whole new set of tricks and tools to make my ropework faster and more one covering rock rescue, I caught up with Nate. We both were keen on
was interested in furthering my technical rope and alpine skills. So we decided it would be a perfect opportunity to co-mentor one another. And that’s when I made sure this would not fall through the cracks. I called him a day later. “Let’s climb the Grand.” “Cool. When do you want to go?”
“Tomorrow. Start hiking tonight?” Hours later we were in the Lupine Meadows parking lot, Salt Lake City a world away. We immediately started hiking, climbed the Owen– Spaulding route in wet and rainy conditions, stood atop the Grand, and made it back home in one 24-hour push. That next morning I went to do a stand up paddle shoot in the Uintahs. That afternoon, I felt like doing a was in. Two days later, we climbed Black Streak, a seven-pitch route in Little Cottonwood Canyon. We stayed active throughout the fall and trained by trail running and climbing. I took Wilderness First Aid, Rock Rescue 1 and Rock Rescue 2
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“
` WHEN I SIGNED UP FOR THE CRAGGIN’ CLASSIC I COULD NEVER HAVE IMAGINED WHAT I WOULD DISCOVER AS A RESULT. I WAS THERE TO LEARN AND MEET PEOPLE, FOR SURE. BUT I NEVER ANTICIPATED WHAT A PROFOUNDLY POSITIVE EFFECT IT WOULD HAVE ON MY CAREER AS A SKIER, AND ON MY LIFE IN GENERAL.
through Nate’s company, furthering my knowledge of back-up systems. When the snow fell, we went skiing. It was my turn to mentor. Throughout our tours, I coached Nate along, allowing him to become associated with ski mountaineering that I’ve learned, and we debated substantial enough in this situation? We mixed it up, incorporating rock ridge climbs as means to access couloirs to ski. In October, I got a call from a photographer to go on a skimountaineering trip to the volcanoes of Ecuador. As I started researching the trip, I realized Nate would be the ideal partner because glaciated terrain. I invited him and amazingly, it worked with both our schedules. The more we researched, the more our ticklist grew. What started as one peak turned into a wild plan to climb and ski the three highest summits in Ecuador in one week. Nate spent hours working on logistics, and I spent hours fundraising.
slept at 13,000’, higher than I’d ever slept. The next night, we slept at the Refugio Hut at 15,000’ to go for a summit bid the next day. Despite the what gear was necessary, we successfully summited the 18,996’ volcano
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and were rewarded with perfect corn snow the entire way down, from summit to snowline. After that introduction, it was “eat, sleep, perform” for the remainder of the week. Our guide dropped out citing issues with his novia. So we were stuck with a big itinerary but no logistical support. We found another guide who could do it, but all the arrangements had to be reorganized. We had to work within the structure of their mountain culture to access the peaks, and from our skiers’ standpoint, we weren’t sure what to expect. There were a lot of uncertainties and unclear transitions. Should we skin or bootpack? Use crampons or ski poles? We didn’t even know if the lines would be skiable. But the adventure made it more appealing. Nate and I had only known each other for a few months, but together, we used our combined expertise to work through problems that arose. In the end we added Cotopaxi (19,347’) and Chimborazo (20,564’) to the list, climbing and skiing the three highest peaks of Ecuador, the prize beyond our expectations. When I signed up for the Craggin’ Classic I could never have imagined what I would discover as a result. I was there to learn and meet people, for sure. But I never anticipated what a profoundly positive made friends who will stick with me for the rest of my life. All it took was an eagerness and willingness to grow. The community is already here, waiting.
The American Alpine Clu
b’s
presented by
[Opening Spread, Left] the Tetons. AAC member Jesse Crock • [Opening Spread, Right] Gear selection is crucial for a ski-mountaineering Mike Schirf • Caroline on the Grand Teton with Nate Smith and Cam Doane. AAC member Caroline Gleich collection • AAC member Caroline Gleich collection • Caroline building a solid anchor with Brooke Gaynes at the 2013 Salt Lake Craggin’ Classic. AAC member Alan Avedovech •
CAROLINE GLEICH • SLC, UT Caroline Gleich joined the AAC in the Guidebook to Membership
professional skier for 10 years and skis for Patagonia, Zeal Optics, Nordica, Leki, Ski Magazine and Powder Magazine.
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EVENTS COMING TOGETHER The AAC hosts many events each year, and has a presence at many more. Our biggest national events are the Craggin’ Classics and the Annual events calendar and your Section’s web page for up-to-date information on events and volunteering opportunites.
ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER The dinner brings together climbers of all ages and abilities for an unforgettable itself, and at numerous events sprinkled throughout the weekend, attendees can rub shoulders with climbing legends from every generation. Every ticket sold helps the Club raise funds to improve and expand all the programs that you’ve read about in this book. SAVE THE DATE! We are pleased to announce the 2015 Annual keynote from famed alpinist Reinhold Messner. JANUARY 31, 2015
!
CRAGGIN’ CLASSICS SEPTEMBER 6 cragging, socializing, clinics, stewardship, and more. Every year, AAC communities around the country host a number of Craggin’ Classics at popular climbing destinations. Find the one closest to you and put it on your calendar!
Craggin’ Classic – Alta, UT
The American Alpine Club’s
presented by
SEPTEMBER 12-14
Craggin’ Classic – North Conway, NH
SEPTEMBER 19-21
Craggin’ Classic – New River Gorge, WV
OCTOBER 10-12
Craggin’ Classic – Smith Rock, OR
NOVEMBER 7-9
Craggin’ Classic – Bishop, CA
!
AAC member Lee Pruitt • Rock Craggin’ Classic. AAC member Truc Allen Media • during the 2013 Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic.
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ROAD TRIP CHANGINGGEARS at the international climbers’ meet
By Forest Altherr, photos by Andrew Burr
I
lay in the back of my truck with the curtains drawn to block out the desert’s
commitment to live the life I had romanticized in my mind. At one point I had a plan to meet up with the AAC International Climbers’ Meet (ICM)
and megaphones. This implacable routing collided with my plans and by the possibility of smuggling myself into the park—or ending my trip
thought, than to seek out others who shared my passion. Like a boulder crashing into a stream, a huge obstacle diverted my
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would still be closed. So I called Carol Kotchek, the ICM organizer, desperate for information. What I heard sounded like hopeful optimism that people would still show if we changed the location—after all, they had booked plane tickets from across the globe. So, eager to help, we talked through the options in California. With Joshua Tree too hot and reorganize for the Eastern Sierras. “Bishop?” I said, “Isn’t that place all about bouldering?” My knowledge of climbing there was limited to images I had seen crimps. Honestly, that sounded awful—until Carol eased my mind with talk of Owen’s River Gorge and the high Sierras. So with the truck packed and gear stowed, my unsettled spirit broke free. I spent the next few days
“
we gazed into that magical ravine of basalt. In no time ropes were up, and we were whooping about how good the climbing was. Over the next few days Little Egypt, Rock Creek, and Crystal Crag served as our playgrounds
granite splitters, ferocious overhanging hauls, and epic adventures. But every evening we returned to share our day’s experiences and laugh at our mishaps. On the surface what may have seemed like a disparaging every discipline. At night we creased our guidebooks and partnered up for the next day’s exploits. Almost every day we had some sort of surprise. Ryan Campagna’s Subaru hobbled miserably into camp under the strain of
WHILE MY FEET BAKED IN THE SUN, CAROL AND OTHERS WERE CORRALLING CLIMBERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD, PERSUADING THEM OF THE NEW PLAN: A CLASSIC AMERICAN ROAD TRIP. Film Tour and slideshows as new friends shared their tales of incredible ascents in the Himalaya,
the desert alone with my crash pad, waiting and hoping that everything would come together and the event would still take place. While my feet baked in the sun, Carol and others were corralling climbers from around the world, persuading them of the
discovered the hilarity of packing a melon in an unsuspecting climber’s pack before a long approach. As the ICM drew to a close we had the opportunity to be blessed by the visiting Sherpa Kame and Diwas. With white katas around our necks and peace in our hearts, some of us had to say goodbye. I was torn every time a member of my new family had to return home. But I continually found others
trip. Like me, many other climbers felt a twinge of disappointment when they heard the news. Some would be visiting the States for the heart of their desire. location, I had been charged with holding the campsite—for 50 of us. Night fell, and a mysterious yellow rescue vehicle pulled into the campground. I was momentarily concerned that my claim to our campsite was about to be put on trial. John French
mine. The connections I made
FOREST ALTHERR • NOWHERE IN PARTICULAR, U.S.A. Forest eventually drove his truck to Golden, CO and began volunteering at AAC headquarters. Here in the Rockies he is growing into his dreams
with Nogah Bregman from Israel, Simon Hirst from Great Britain, and Andrey Romaniuk from Brazil to explore other destinations in Northern California and Utah. The loneliness and insecurity evaporated a little every day that I shared a rope with someone new. Since the ICM I have found shelter from cold nights in the
cheering on others at crags around the state, and—of course— my identity and the location of the volunteering at AAC events. ICM camp. Whew! That night I laid back basking in the comfort of companionship while I listened to his stories. Together we shared the the best thing I could have done for myself, with or without the granite The next day more of us arrived, hailing from Brazil, Santa Cruz, comes from the amazing personalities who inhabit our world of climbing. had started out as a desolate campground began to strengthen into a huddle of tents, bivy bags, and vehicles some called home. Crackles of knowing you have a family wherever you go. wondering what the week would hold. Forest racks up for another send. • revelers settle in for a Reel Rock 8 showing on the side of a van.
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ICM
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TRIPS As members of the AAC we share a common bond, a passion for climbing. Climbing takes us to incredible destinations. It forges friendships, new experiences, and ambitions. So pull out your map and dream big. Join us for one or more of these unforgettable adventures, wherever they take you.
TRIP DATES SUMMER ‘14 OCTOBER 5-12
INTERNATIONAL CLIMBERS’ MEET
Great Ranges Fellowship - Tetons International Climbers’ Meet
GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP TRIPS As a Club, we understand how important it is to travel and climb with friends, new and old, who share the same outdoor values, passion, and ethics. AAC members embrace the same spirit and mission across every climbing discipline.
(ICM), a week-long gathering of climbers from around the world. AAC members and members of international climbing organizations meet in an iconic national climbing destination for a week of climbing, conversation, and stewardship. International guests and AAC members are partnered with American host climbers for daytime
Colin Haley, and many more. ICMs are not intended solely for top-end climbers. The diversity of attendees enhances the conversation and the experience for all attending.
! Hangin’ at the ICM. AAC member Andrew Burr • [Facing
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AAC member Rich Crowder
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BringingBackEllingwood by Dan Cohen
T
here is something soulful about walking in the footsteps of our heroes. From the craggy spine of the Presidentials to El Cap Meadow, exceptional climbing places tend to be steeped in exceptional climbing history. We
Crawford or Muir.
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Ellingwood • •
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Carl Blaurock • AAC member Randy Langstraat • Albert AAC member Andrew Bradberry • Carl Blaurock • Carl Blaurock Carl Blaurock • Barton Hoag • Albert Ellingwood • Unknown
from a copy of the 1934 edition of Trail and Timberline and the biography Albert Ellingwood: Scholar of Summits
science at Colorado College,
1913 with new equipment like ropes and pitons and new techniques for belaying that made possible summits like considered “inaccessible” and “unclimbable.”
the summit. Ellingwood, noting
core may still be solid but the
continued to explore the mountainous corners of the state and beyond,
DAN COHEN • GOLDEN, CO Dan Cohen began volunteering with the Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library in late 2010 and has had the opportunity to work with countless rare books and unique archives.
intrepid man’s life.
greatest pioneers in Colorado history, mountaineering or otherwise. climber who was part of my community a hundred years ago. No other library in the world has such a collection of climbing treasures that can
bring back. Who’s next on the shelf? Hermann Buhl •
AAC member
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LIBRARY THE WORLD’S GREATEST COLLECTION OF CLIMBING INFORMATION The Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library provides you with all the information you could ever want on mountain culture and climbing routes.
history, alpinism, rock climbing, ice climbing, bouldering, and the mountain
BETA !
americanalpineclub.org/library
GET INVOLVED.
climbing information. Email dgershel@americanalpineclub.org
library@americanalpineclub.org
(303) 384-0112
GUIDEBOOK FINDER Every year we get in more guidebooks
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EXPLORE INCREDIBLE ARTIFACTS IN CLIMBING HISTORY
GET INVOLVED. Volunteers can support this project remotely since
BETA
!
explore.americanalpineclub.org/
Email dgershel@americanalpineclub.org
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MUSEUM HISTORY IN FRONT OF YOU The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum opened to the public in February 2008.
BETA !
mountaineeringmuseum.org
info@mountaineeringmuseum.org
(303) 996-2755
Yeti Night at the Mountaineering Museum is always a hit. American Mountaineering Museum
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PUBLICATIONS PUBLICATIONS SEARCH: 24,000+ ARTICLES AT YOUR FINGER TIPS American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and Alpina Americana.
BETA !
American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and Alpina Americana, go to publications.americanalpineclub.org
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Published since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is the premier annual record of “The AAJ puts more focus on rock climbs, especially in the Lower access to the digital editions of all
ACCIDENTS The climbs we love can be unforgiving at times. Accidents in North American Mountaineering is to record the most interesting climbing accidents of the year and
the mistakes of others, come home safely, and climb again tomorrow.
PDF format.
BETA !
2014 AAJ and Accidents
GET INVOLVED. Volunteer from anywhere! Make AAJ and Accidents articles more accessible by updating articles and tagging information from the Email Dougald MacDonald dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org
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2013: YEAR IN REVIEW Every year the AAC proudly presents awards to those with outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, mountain literature, and more.
DAVID BROWER CONSERVATION AWARD Recognizing leadership and commitment to preserving mountain regions worldwide.
ROBERT HICKS BATES AWARD For outstanding accomplishment by a young climber.
ELLEN LAPHAM
SCOTT BENNET
H. ADAMS CARTER LITERARY AWARD
ANGELO HEILPRIN CITATION
Recognizing excellence by North American writers who have contributed extensively and over many years to mountain literature.
American Alpine Club.
DUANE RALEIGH
WILLIAM FETTERHOFF
ROBERT AND MIRIAM UNDERHILL AWARD
DAVID A. SOWLES MEMORIAL AWARD
Awarded to a climber with the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in
Conferred upon mountaineers who have distinguished themselves,
the mountains.
TOM FROST
PETER HACKET
[This Page] A party of mountaineers climbing the Avalanche Gully route on Mount Shasta, CA. AAC member Rich Crowder • [Facing Page, Inset] Jim McCarthy is one of two climbers to have graced the cover of Sports Illustrated. [Facing Page] Climbing Mount Yale, CO. AAC member Mike DelliVeneri
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NEW HONORARY PRESIDENT SCOTT BENNET
JAMES P. MCCARTHY the AAC’s Honorary President. Jim’s climbing achievements are routes in the Gunks, especially on the Mac Wall. He was ahead of his time in moving over the landscape on giant traverses like the Cathedral Traverse in the Tetons. And he was an early pioneer in the export of Yosemite big-wall techniques to remote peaks like Lotus Flower Tower and Proboscis. Jim’s leadership at the AAC is equally legendary. As Club President he launched an early attempt at what we are doing today: he made the Club more inclusive and, with the establishment of the Bates Award, more welcoming to young climbers.
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2013 GRANTS BETA !
View grant winners and apply: americanalpineclub.org/grants
MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT
COPP-DASH AWARD
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD
Fall - $4,400
$12,000
$12,000
ZACH CLANTON (24), $700
MICHAEL WEJCHERT ($3,000)
DOUG CHABOT ($3,000)
JAMES GUSTAFSON (19), $700
LIZZY SCULLY ($4,000)
CHAD KELLOGG ($3,000)
SAM HENNESSEY (23), $700
MICK FOLLARI ($8,000)
JESSE HUEY ($3,000)
DAVID HERTEL (24) $300
DANIEL HARRO ($2,000)
MATT MCCORMICK ($3,000)
TREVOR KREZNAR (23), $300
PETE DRONKERS ($3,000)
RYAN LEARY (25), $700 DAVID LEE (19), $300 MYLES MOSER (24), $700 KURT ROSS (21), $300
MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT Spring - $3,800 KATIE BONO (25), $400 BENJAMIN CARUSO (25), $400 DEREK DEBRUIN (25), $400 BAILEY GRANSTROM (23), $200 LOGAN JAMISON (22), $400 HAMIK MUKELYAN (24), $400 KURT ROSS (21), $800 COLIN SIMON (24), $600 JUSTIN WILLIS (17), $200
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MCNEILL-NOTT $5,000 PETE DRONKERS ($2,000) CHRIS WRIGHT ($2,000) JEWELL LUND ($1,000)
RESEARCH GRANTS
LIVE YOUR DREAM
LIVE YOUR DREAM
$8,800
$19,800
$19,800
BEDAYN AND GILKEY FUNDS:
NORTHEAST LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT Spring - $2,000
ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT $2,400
PETER CLARK ($400)
JOE SAMBATARO ($900)
CHRISTA WHITEMAN ($600)
MARSHAL HODA ($800)
JEFFREY LONGCOR ($1,000)
JEFF GOLDEN ($400)
Fall - $1,700
ROB DILLON ($300)
BEN BECK-COON ($500)
CENTRAL LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT Spring - $1,700
ERIC LADD ($1,000) SCOTT MACINTOSH ($1,000) IAN HOYER ($1,000) JASON WILLIAMS ($850) ALEYA LITTLETON ($250) R L PUTNAM FUND: MEAGAN OLDFATHER ($1,000) ELLI THEOBALD ($1,000) JENNIFER WILKENING ($997) ROBERT SEMBORSKI ($1,000) CHRISTOPHER SERENARI ($783)
SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT $1,573 BRETT WOEBLER ($787) GILEARD MINJA ($786)
URIAH FAHNESTOCK ($1,200)
JON JUGENHEIMER ($500) NORTHWEST LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT $4,000
KYLE GOUPIL ($200)
KATY PFANNENSTEIN ($400)
MARA JOHNSON-GROH ($250)
RYAN CARRASCO ($400)
ROSS MCKINNEY ($500)
CHRISTIAN RATHKOPF ($400)
RYAN GAJEWSKI ($250)
PARKER WEBB ($400)
SOUTHEAST LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT $2,000
BEN ERDMANN ($300) BEN KUNZ ($300) MATTHEW SELLICK ($200) CHELSEA HEVERAN ($200)
CHRIS “HALIKU” PRUCHNIC WILDERNESS FIRST RESPONDER TRAINING GRANT
CHRISTOPHER BANGS ($200)
$699
THOMAS KINGSBURY ($200)
HEATH BAILEY ($699)
ANDREA HOFFMAN ($200) BEN PONTECORVO ($200) PATRICK FINK ($150) ETHAN LINCK ($150) DEBRA STANSBERY ($150) LISA VERWYS ($150)
NOLAN WILDFIRE ($400) SARA CASEY ($400) JEFF MEKOLITES ($400) MELISSA BUEHLER ($400) ERIC RICH ($400) WESTERN LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT $6,000 ERIC DESCHAMPS ($1,000) CHRISTOPHER MARSHALL ($1,000) EPHRAT BITTON ($500) MAGGIE CRAWFORD ($500) SAYLOR FLETT ($500) BOB PORTER ($500) BRIAN QUINES ($500) GERI ULREY ($500) DIERDRE WOLOWNICK ($500) LUKE ZACHMANN ($500)
Ben Kunz, Tim Halder, and Joe Sambataro on their way to the Northwest Summit of Mount Waddington in the Coast Range of British Columbia AAC member Joe Sambataro
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ANNUAL REPORT
WE’RE GOING PLACES.
Led by our members and volunteers, we continued to make the American Alpine Club more relevant to more climbers in 2013. The result has been our most successful year on record—again. Both membership and respectively. It has been an exciting ride. In 2011 we cranked up the engine of
participation of dozens of volunteers, the American Alpine Journal stepped into modern times with a design overhaul, broadened focus, and a powerful new online search function. Additionally our Explore website launched in January, giving about 10,000 visitors digital admission to oneof-a-kind climbing archives that used to be accessible only by visiting our library in Golden. And we continued to work closely with other organizations— especially the Access Fund—to make sure the national and international
tested a variety of noteworthy programs such as the Live Your Dream
years to get national guidance that states, once and for all, that climbing is a legitimate use of Wilderness and that we depend on the discreet
rewrite of our mission and vision, we were reminded of what we value most. We value each other. The biggest change in our organization over the past three years was born out of a realization that one’s personal climbing experience is
Park Service Director in the form of Director’s Order 41 last spring. We also worked closely with Yosemite National Park on their most recent
of volunteers across the country—and that’s working. So we’re shifting more decision-making to volunteers on the ground while also providing them with more resources at the national level. This ensures that we are working together to support the most critical needs in communities
are made possible through charitable contributions beyond member dues. In response to this generosity we created the Great Ranges Fellowship for members who give $1,000 or more annually. I am proud to announce this donor recognition society doubled its numbers from 74 in 2012 to 146 participants in 2013. Such growth allows us to be more
Many members do not realize that half of our expenditures for
determined locally and submitted for Cornerstone Grants, and the entire that local ownership and direct participation is a key ingredient to making a bigger impact in our climbing world. Results come from doing meaningful work together with our
danger thanks to our Trailhead Rescue program; others had domestic rescue-related expenses covered by our new reimbursement program.
Thanks in large part to the members of our Great Ranges Fellowship, we exceeded the $5 million mark in our Campaign for Climbers—the
Corporate Partners and planned gifts from our Piolet Society members. As a united community of climbers we have accomplished much. The ambitious plan that we launched three years ago is coming to a fruitful close, and the future is promising. Climbing continues to evolve
River Gorge Campground. When you add in the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, we helped over 10,000 climbers get a good night’s sleep in 2013. Gateway Campground. Every member has something to celebrate here: these are all examples of climbers supporting climbers by pooling our resources and volunteering our time. Under the leadership of our new Information team, and with the
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Phil Powers Executive Director
Members
12,589
13,000
11,000
13 20
20
12
11 20
10 20
20
7,000
09
9,000
Operating Expenses
Operating Revenue [Fiscal 2013]
[Fiscal 2013]
Fundraising 30% Membership Dues 28% Grants & Special Projects 12.5% Endowment Draws 7.5%
Membership & Community 30% Information & Marketing 21% Development 14%
Campaign Support 7%
Operations / G&A 13%
Lodging 6%
Restricted (Special Projects) 10.5%
Events 4%
Lodging 6%
Section Income 3%
Conservation & Policy 5.5%
Publications/Merchandise 2%
Operating Revenue / Expense [Fiscal 2013]
3,000,000 2,500,000 Budgeted Revenue: $2,190,930 Actual Revenue: $2,545,834 Budgeted Expenses: $2,560,637 Actual Expenses: $2,787,569 Net Budgeted: -$369,707 Net Actual: -$241,734
2,000,000 1,500,000 1,000,000
Actual Budgeted
500,000 0 -500,000
Expense
Revenue
Net
A day’s end for Patrick Odonnell and Brian Russell atop the Needles. AAC member Ken Etzel Year in Review |
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GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP The Great Ranges Fellowship brings our donor-members together with exclusive events and trips, the AAC we value every gift—no matter its size. In recognition of our most generous donors, we’ve created this program. BETA !
americanalpineclub.org/p/great-ranges-fellowship
recognition, and communication to our donors at various levels. We strive to be inclusive of all climbing disciplines and recognize support. Most gifts qualify toward annual membership in the GRF including those directed toward key operating programs such as the American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, The American Alpine Club Library, the AAC Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, and AAC grant programs. The program does not include Corporate
greatranges@americanalpineclub.org
(303) 384-0110
TEEWINOT FELLOW – $1,000
• Exclusive Great Ranges Fellowship Jacket • Recognition in the American Alpine Journal • Recognition in the Guidebook to Membership • Subscription to Alpinist magazine • Inclusion in the Fellowship Updates e-mail notices
ROBSON FELLOW – $2,500 • •
support.
Dinner with purchase of tickets
POWERED BY:
ALPAMAYO FELLOW – $5,000 include all regular AAC
• VIP invitations to a variety of events in your area and around the nation • Exclusive and timely communications regarding key Club issues • Invitations to exclusive AAC climbing trips annually • Regular annual AAC membership (beginning at your current expiration date)
• • A special hardcover edition of the American Alpine Journal • family
EIGER FELLOW – $10,000 • • • your friends and family
PIOLET SOCIETY Lyman Spitzer, Jr. left a legacy for his fellow climbers. In 2013, thanks in part to the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award, Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster climbed a bold new line on 23,901’
A long time AAC member and lover of the mountains, Lyman generously included the AAC in his estate plan. From this forethought, the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award was created and would eventually help inspire a generation of climbers. You can leave a legacy too by making a gift through your estate and joining our Piolet Society. Contact Keegan Young at kyoung@ americanalpineclub.org or (303) 384-0110 and talk with him about getting started.
Hayden Kennedy descends, spent but happy, after establishing a new route on the south face of the Ogre 1. AAC member Kyle Dempster
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DONORS $10,000+ GRF EIGER FELLOW Douglas Beall Richard Blum Yvon Chouinard Anonymous Kevin Duncan & Duncan Family Foundation Ken Ehrhart Clark Gerhardt Jr.
David Koch Mark Kroese McKibben/Merner Family Foundation Peter Metcalf Anonymous Mark & Teresa Richey David Riggs Steve Schwartz Cody J Smith Steven Swenson & Ann Dalton Doug and Maggie Walker
$5,000–$9,999 ALPAMAYO FELLOW Ansara Family Fund Yonsuk Derby Charles Fleischman Bruce Franks Gerald Gallwas Sandy Hill Louis Kasischke George McCown Amy Meredith Vanessa O’Brien Wolf Riehle Travis Spitzer William & Barbra Straka Theodore Streibert Peter Sulick Lawerance True & Linda Brown Ronald Ulrich The Estate of Paul Wiseman
$2,500–$4,999 ROBSON FELLOW Warren Adelman Steve Barrett George Basch Sherman Bull M.D. Thomas Burch John Catto
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Mike Collins James Donini James and Cheryl Duckworth Jim Edwards Dan Emmett Charlotte Fox Marilyn Geninatti Peter, Sam, Addis, & Gus Goldman Syed Haider Robert Hall Helene Hill Michael Hodges Thomas Hornbein M.D. Mark Kassner Phil Lakin Jr George Lowe III Anonymous Linda McMillan James Morrissey Miriam Nelson & Earle Kinloch David Olsen Charles Peck Marshall Peterson Charles Sassara III Howard Sebold Alan Spielberg Bob Street Paul Underwood Theodore Weicker Keegan Young
$1,000–$2,499 TEEWINOT FELLOW
Robert Anderson Larry Arthur William Atkinson Gail Bates COL Christopher Bates Gali Beh Vaclav Benes Gordon A. Benner M.D. Laurie Berliner Tanya Bradby & Martin Slovacek John Bragg Wesley Brown Paul Brunner William Burd Deirdre Byers Edmund And Betsy Cabot Foundation Robert J. Campbell Peter Carter Douglas Colwell Kevin Cooney Matt & Charlotte
Culberson Karen Daubert Joseph Davidson Tom Degenhardt Stanley Dempsey David Dingman Jennifer Dow M.D. Richard Draves Jesse Dwyer Charles Eilers H. Newcomb Eldredge Stuart Ellison Lee Elman Denise Elmer Terrence English Philip Erard Timothy Forbes James Frank C. James Frush James and Franziska Garrett Bill Givens David Goeddel Golden Civic Foundation Anonymous Wayne and
Scot Hillman Marley & Jennifer Hodgson M.D. Robert Hyman & Deborah Atwood Thomas Janson William Krause M.D. Ellen Lapham Leo Lebon Paul Lego Gerald Lofthouse Jamie Logan Gail Loveman Chris Lynch Brent Manning Edward Matthews James McCarthy Peter McGann Hacksaw Paul Morrow Ted Morton Amy Paradis Will Phillips James Pinter-Lucke John Pope Phil Powers & Sarah Pierce Matthew Pruis Eugene Rehfeld
Louis Reichardt Prof John Reppy Andrea Resnick Ryan Rich Michael Riley Carey Roberts Joel Robinson John Rudolph George Shaw Jay Smith George N. Smith Brian Sohn Allen Steck Robert & Jennifer Stephenson Seth Switzer Pat & Jack Tackle Thomas Taplin David Thoenen Martin J. Torresquintero John Tracy Dieter Von Hennig James Whittaker Todd Winzenried Joseph Yannuzzi Rob Ziegler
$500–$999
Conrad Anker Brian Biega Virginia Boucher David Breashears Bradley Brooks Deanne Buck Tina Bullitt Paul Byrne Francis Castle Megan Delehanty Lee Elman Marc Evankow Hana Fancher Michael Feldman Marilyn & William Carlo Filiaci Paul Gagner Frederick Glover Eli Gottlieb David Harrah Rocky Henderson Mark Hingston Jonathan Hough Damien Huang Tom Janson Thomas Jenkins Michael Kavanaugh Kyriba Group Matthew L’Heureux Alison Levine Katrin C. Lieberwirth Stephen Lockhart Songhui Ma Mele Mason
J.Bruce McCubbrey Louise McGowan Kathleen Meehan Roger Mellem Garry Menzel James Milliron Kristin & Alan Nagel Anonymous John Parsons Francesco Rovetta Jeb Sanford Walter Sarcletti Rebecca Schild Werner Schueller Greg Sievers Samuel Silverstein M.D. Stephen Smith Bob Strode Mr. Erwin Thomet W. Hal Tompkins John Townsend Jolene Unsoeld Graham Vickowski Ronald Weissinger Mark Wilford Anrae Wimberly John Young
$200–$499
Andrew Allan Nathan Allen Jon Anderson Burton Angrist M.D. James Anholm Jan Anthony Jan Arnet Jennifer Arnold Allan Bach M.D. John Baer Carol Baker Robert Bates Estate Michael Best Hugh Bingham Sara Bingiman Ronald Bixby Sean Borman Randy Bracht Mr. Robert Branch Pat Brogan Gerald Brooks Lynn Buchanan Duncan Burke Eric Burrell Mr. Gary Butcher Clarence Cain Jessica Carideo Jay Cassell Jonathan Chaplin David Chick Jerome Chin Christopher Clarke Sarah Coates Randy Cobb Tom Cohen
Joni Cooper Jamie Cooper David Coward Edward Cox Janna Cox Robert Craig Chadwick Creamer Catherine Cullinane John Davidge III Lee Davis Megan Delehanty Joe Dominguez Reade & David Dornan Richard Duane Fred Dunham Yves Durieux Phil Engert Phil Ensign Todd Fairbairn Peter Farquhar James Fisher Thomas Flaherty Julie Floyd Florence Formby Anne Frantz Charles Fuller Natalie Garner Amy Godfrey Charles Goldman Steven Goryl Peter Hackett M.D. David Hahn Chris Hamilton Henry Hamlin Ronald Hanson John Hart Peter Helmetag George Hill Catherine Hollis Anthony Horan Robert Horton Raymond Huey Lawrence Huntington Noel Hurd John Hutchinson Mike Immerwahr Robert John Chris Jones Frances Kellogg L. James Kennedy Jr. Henry Kingsley Al Koury Kiera Kurvink Erik Lambert Will Lana Carl Landegger Olya Lapina Steve Lazny J A Leinicke Trudi & Arthur Leissa Steve Lem Val Lester Anonymous Eric Lundgren
Dougald MacDonald Carolyn Maloney Robert Martin & Thanyanan Chaowanachan Rebecca Martin Chris Mathias Mary Ann Matthews Edwards Matthews Sheila Matz Justin McCloskey Andrew McDermott Gary McElvany Peter McGann M.D. Shanda McGrew Anonymous Russ McKinley Richard Merritt David Messman Mary Metz Steven Miller Matthew Miller Richard Millikan Barrett Morgan Mary Motheral Ronald Muecke Martin Mushkin Kari Olson Irving Oppenheim Allison Otto Lorraine Parmer Scottie Pate Dale Peery Mark Perry Anonymous Alan Peterson Ingrid Peterson Karla Pifer Keenan Pope Greg Pursell Joshua Randow Bob Raymond Matthew Reich John Reilly Mona Reynolds Jim Richards Cory Richards Matthew Roberts Riddell Roper Rebecca Rosenzweig Frederick Ross Bob Rugo John Rupley Burton Ryan Allen Sanderson Ph.D. David Sandoval Robert Schneider Robert Schoene Tyson Schoene Raymond Schrag David See Andriy Smertin Allan Snyder Alicia Snyder
Dan Snyder Vincent Starzinger
Robert Stevens Melissa Stowe William Sumner Brian Taylor John Tedeschi Robert Thompson III Heather Thorne John Tiernan Mary Tompkins Joel Torretti Dennis Trevino Jim Trimingham Jay Ullin Charlotte Unger Bela Vadasz Edward Vaill Kasandra VerBrugghen & Andreas Schmidt Gabriel Wallace Jim Wagon & Nancy Cohen Wilford Welch Robert Whitby Annie Whitehouse Whitney Portal Store Paul Wichman Michael Wiedman John Wilson Wayne Wilson Timothy Wilt Gordon Wiltsie Mrs. Tracy Witt Joseph Yannuzzi
$100–$199
Jonathan Abramson Peter Ackroyd Chuck Adams Paul Ahls Jason Albert Frank Alling Tim Amos Jennifer Andrew Edmund Andrews Megan Andrews Liesl Andrico Stephen Arnon M.D. Chuck Aude Michael Barker Sarah Barron Kenneth & Kelly Bayne Irene Beardsley John Beaupre Walter Benoit Manfred Berretz John Berry Cherie Blackburn Charles Blackwell Richard Booth Thomas Bosch
Andrew Breibart Paul Briggs Jared Brown Olivier Buu Alton Byers Gerald Calbaum John Carvelas William Chadwick Eric Christu Cecily Clark Terry Cline Dan Cohen Brian Conlon Emily Connor Emilie Cortes Judy & William Cox Dan Cox Caspar Cronk Chris Cuneo Ellen Dagenhart Anonymous Brian Dannemann Scott Davis Alain De Lotbiniere M.D. Richard de Neufville Drew Dembowski Stephen DenHartog Anonymous Richard Dietz Michael Dimitri John Donlou M.D. Agnes Doody Charles Dorian Melvyn Douglas David Dugdale David Dyess Ivar Eidsmo Linwood Erskine Jr. Eddie Espinosa Mr. William Everheart II Evan Fales Martha Feagin Mark Fedow Karen Feloney Sean Field Carlo Filiaci Paul Fish William Fisher Jacqueline Florine Rich Folsom Bradley Fowler Kenneth Frankel Jr. Paul Frantz Gregory Frux Christopher Galligan Ryland Gardner Roberta Garrison Stephen Geremia Michael Gibbons Paul Gill Mr. Jocelyn Glidden Arun Gollakota Frederick Golomb M.D. Basia Gorska David Graber Matthew Gray
John Gregory William Guida Barbara Gurtler Christopher Haagen David Haavik Steve Hackett Anonymous Michael Happe Tim Harrington Kevin Hartigan Daniel Hartman Giles Healey Donall Healy John Heilprin Herbert Hensley Robert Heuman Scott Hicks Daniel Hildreth John Hodder William Hodgman Anonymous Joshua Hohner James Holmes Kathryn Howard Mary Hsue Gerald Hunt Lyman Johnson Anonymous Frederick Johnson Jonathan Kedrowski Elizabeth W. Kehaya Thomas Kempner Cory Kennedy William Kilpatrick M.D. Bruce Klepinger Steven Knopf John Korfmacher Rodney Korich John Kozlosky David Kuban David Landman Christopher Lang Barbara LaVake Mrs Linda Lawson Vincent Lee Anonymous Carl Lee Marnie Levine Cheryl Levine Jane Levy Jerry Libecki Misha Logvinov Donald Lund Jack Macpherson Reid Malinbaum Jerry Mandello David Markwell Wallace Martindale III John Marts James Mathis Michael Maude Paul Maxwell Cyrielle Mazin Richard McGowan Louise McGowan Michael McGurkin
Ian McLagan Patrick Meezan John Mercer Jr. Jack Miller Alison Miyasaki MJS Ranch Gary Moe Dee Molenaar Allen Moore Alan Moore Candace Morgan David Moyer John Murphy Anonymous Parker Newby Richard Nolting Johanna Nosal Robert Ortiz Alison Osius Al Ossinger John Owen David Padwa Bruce Paton M.D. Gail Pavlich Cydney Payton David Peterson Dale Phelps-Munson Brian Quinif Alfred Randall M.D. Brian Redmond Dorothea Reilly Drummond Rennie M.D. Peter Renz Darren Rettburg Stephen Richards Steven Rickert Richard Ridgeway Anonymous Arnold Robson Mr Riddell Roper Elmo Rosario Dennis Roscetti Paul Rose Paul Rosenstrach Tony Rowell Richard Ruddell John Rutter Alfheidur Saemundsson Richard Salisbury Mr. Simon Sandoval Samuel Santoro Barbara Schaefer Stephen Schauer Anonymous Friedel Schunk Alex Sebastian Val Selivanov Joseph Serra William Shell Robert Siegrist Philip Simonet Jim Sincox Howard Slayen
Beth Slocum & Robin Brown Hunter Smith Anonymous Robert Stanton Peter Stock Jonathan Stone Duncan Stuart Dr. Richard Sturm Wei-Li Sun Lewis Surdam Rowland Tabor John Taylor Daniel Taylor Anonymous David Tetley Mary Theis Bruce Theriault Ann Thomas Alexander Thomson Charles Tint Gary Treml Melissa Truelove Richard Tucker Mark Tuller Krag Unsoeld Sarah Vaill Royce Van Evera John Verrastro Edward Vervoort Victor Vescovo Bill Vipond Margot Von Engelmann Andrew Vondeak Dale Vrabec Dirk Wales George Wallerstein Thelma Wandahl=Bundesen Mike Warburton Adrienne & Peter Ward Christopher Warner Eleanor Waxman Peter Webb Roy Wedding Erik Weihenmayer John Werning Russell Whitney Roger Wiegand Warren Wilhide Graham Williams David Wilson Steve Wunsch April Yamaichi Lynn Yehle Graham Zimmerman
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CORPORATE PARTNERS BETA !
americanalpineclub.org/partners
partners@americanalpineclub.org
(303) 384-0110
SUMMIT PARTNER $50,000
HIGH CAMP $25,000
BASECAMP $15,000
PATRON $10,000
LEADER $7,500
PARTNER $5,000
SUSTAINER $2,500 Mammut Mountain Gear SCARPA
SUPPORTER $1,000 Fixehardware Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Liberty Mountain
MEMBER $500 Alpine Ascents International Bluewater Ropes Feathered Friends Forty Below Fox Mountain Guides KNS Reps Metolius
Mountain Khakis Mountain Tools Nite Ize Restop Top of the World Books Trango Trailspace.com Rafael Dunn
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FEATURED PARTNER
JENNA JOHNSON
PATAGONIA, ALPINE LINE MANAGER AAC VOLUNTEER, INFO. & MARKETING COMMITTEE Patagonia’s relationship with the AAC is deep and enduring. At their core, both organizations strive to enhance and protect the climbing experience we all love. In the 1972 Chouinard Equipment and Yvon Chouinard said, “We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve 1) the vertical wilderness, and 2) the adventure inherent in the experience.” Since its inception, Patagonia has committed to doing the least possible harm in the making of its products, crises so that future generations can experience, love, and
and equally inspiring. I try to bring that same intention to my daily work building clothing for climbers, as well as Information & Marketing Committee in 2012 and feel strongly that our team has made a lasting, positive impact on our organization and the greater community. Across the world, at every level and in every discipline, climbers are connected and supported by a common love of experience, adventure, and camaraderie. By strengthening those connections, the AAC is growing an even stronger united community of climbers—and I couldn’t be more proud to be a part of it.
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MEDIA PARTNERS BETA !
americanalpineclub.org/mediapartners
info@americanalpineclub.org
The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and lifetime of climbing. The work we do has the endorsement, in the form unrestricted money we raise each year from our corporate partners is essential to the core operations of the AAC: national and international
(303) 384-0110
advocacy and conservation work, publications like the American Alpine Journal, and events like the International Climbers’ Meet, all of which keep the spirit of climbing thriving. Our Media Partners—magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind support to improve and spread the AAC’s message. Please support those who support us.
MEDIA PARTNERS
Action in Solitude Adventure Journal Andrew Burr Blake McCord Boston Mountain Press Bear Cam Media California Climber Mag Climbing Zine
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Year in Review
Cascade Climbers Climberism Magazine College Outside Dan Brayack Fixed Pin Publishing Google, Inc. Jeremy Collins Jesse Crock
Jamie Givens Jimmy Chin Joe Stock Ken Etzel Menno Boermans Mountainweather.com NEice.com
Peaks Foundation Rich Crowder Sharp End Publishing SNEWS Top of the World Books Trailspace.com Truc Allen Media Wolverine Publishing
Ralf Dujmovits testing the new Expedition 8000 Evo RD on Denali
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the Summit of K2, 8/23/11
We Take Onward & Upwards Literally HANDCRAFTED IN EUROPE
A history of alpinism firsts by LOWA athletes is testament to our passion for the craft of boot-making and the mountains that we love. > Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest > Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the first woman to summit all 8K meter peaks without supplemental oxygen > Ines Papert, who continues to reach new heights in ice/mixed, rock and alpine climbing, including three World Cup Overall titles and four World Championships
For over 90 years, we’ve been crafting alpine boots that deliver the highest possible degree of fit, comfort and performance.
To see the entire 2014 line of LOWA Boots, visit www.lowaboots.com
EXPEDITION 8000 EVO RD
WEISSHORN GTX®
MOUNTAIN EXPERT GTX® EVO
TRIOLET GTX® MID
RED EAGLE - LACE
© 2014 LOWA Boots, LLC. GORE-TEX® is a registered trademark of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A.
TOGETHER WE’RE STRONGER 96
AAC member Rich Crowder
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Again? Nico Favresse eyeballs another oncoming wave of foul weather while Sean Villanueva lashes himself to the rigging during the first ascent of the South Pillar of Kyzyl Asker. The team spent 15 days on the wall navigating heavy storms, -15ºC temps, and “a whole bunch of fantastic rock.“ See the video, hear the babble, watch the send. patagonia.com/chinajam PHOTO: EVRARD WENDENBAUM
© 2014 Patagonia, Inc.