AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
Celebrating 50 Issues of Alpinist
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OUR VISION A united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.
OUR MISSION To support our shared passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb.
If we could sit around a campfire swapping stories with all 15,117 of you, we would. Did you know that our oldest member is 102 years old, and he’s climbed with Ansel Adams? Or that two of our members are truckers and they meet up to climb together all over the country? What about the three members who started a rappelling clinic inspired by Accidents in North American Mountaineering? This year’s Guidebook is a celebration of everything we collectively do. In fact, every photo, story, and bit of art in this Guidebook has been donated by a fellow member... and proves that when we come together we make great things happen. Your tales—written, photographed, and drawn—remind us all why we love the pursuit of the vertical. Beyond the stories, we want to make sure you have the resources to take full advantage of your AAC membership, so you can find Club basics in the back of this Guidebook. And for those of you who are already members, we’ve included the Map to Membership, also created by an AAC’er, which illustrates events in your area and lines out 100+ local discounts you have access to around the country. We bet you have a story too. Share it with us. Tell us how you’re making the climbing world a little bit better, or send us your photos and artwork for a chance to be featured in next year’s Guidebook. Until then, happy climbing! —The AAC info@americanalpineclub.org Your community of 15,117 members
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a
Salute to the AAC during the Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic in Bishop, CA. AAC staff member Jeff Deikis
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 3
photo: andy.mann
Š 2015 adidas AG. adidas, the 3-Bars logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trade marks of the adidas Group.
live without limits Sasha DiGiulian Flying Circus m10 Ouray, CO
www.adidasoutdoor.com
GUIDE TO THE GUIDE 08
MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS
18
MEMBER STORIES
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member photos powered by Black Diamond
tales from our members
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WRITINGS ON THE WALL
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OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGET
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SAVE PARADISE
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GETTING $#!T DONE
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BUILDING COMMUNITY AT THE NEW
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GRAND GENERATIONS
30
THE GUNKS CAMPGROUND
32
THE CRAGGIN’ CLASSICS
postcards from a dream trip
a lesson in adventure
a conservation grant goes to work
a toilet for the Buttermilks
notes from the New River Gorge
friendships forged at the GTCR
facts from the newest AAC lodging facility
photos from the events
BETA info you need to know
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A BELAY AROUND THE WORLD
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WOOD & STEEL
38
LEARNING FROM TRAGEDY
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LIFELINE
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THE DREAM ROOM
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BIG RIGS TO BIG WALLS
46
MEMORIES: GLEN DAWSON
thoughts from the ICM
an interview with artist Joe Iurato
improving knowledge of rappelling practices
a rescue in the Karakoram
the American Alpine Club Library
a guide to life on the road
quotes from the Club’s oldest member
a Steven Charles enjoys a rest day at Mammoth Hot Springs. AAC member Carl Zoch
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GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 7
POWERED BY:
a Mike Libecki in Queen
Maud Land, Antarctica on the approach to Bertha’s Tower. AAC member Cory Richards
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a Maria Rosario Toro warms up by biking to the crag on a cold November morning in Indian Creek, UT. AAC member Diego Saez
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a Spotted by a wave on the Hawaii shore. b AAC member Ryan Moss
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a Nothing beats sending
an alpine big wall! Anne Gilbert Chase and Kate Rutherford nerd out on top of Mt. Hooker in the Wind AAC River Range, WY. member Jason Thompson
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a [Top] Cathy Flanagan
on a link-up of Traverse Ramond and Traverse Sans Retour (6b), Les Calanques, Provence, France. AAC member Joe Stock [Middle] Amber Deming uses a rest day to take in the canyons of the Grand Gulch in Cedar Mesa, UT. AAC member Zachary Winters [Bottom] Paul Hendricks, Dan Zomerlei, and Andrew Hickok strip down in pursuit of freedom, Cordillera AAC member Blanca, Peru. Andrew Hickok
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a Amber Deming experiences a Johannesburg Mountain sunset after skiing early season snow on the Sahale Glacier in the North Cascades, WA. AAC member Zachary Winters
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a Pat Kingsbury heads back to camp after a day of searching for new lines in snow, sleet, and rain, UT. b AAC member Jason Gebauer
a Matt Sedor takes a ride
on The May Fly (5.12d) on a sweltering summer evening, belayed by Oregon Section Co-Chair AAC Jesse Bernier, OR. member Toby Butterfield
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2015 GTM PHOTO CONTEST WINNER
a [This Page] Benjamin L Eaton soaks up the morning scenery from his bivy at the top of the fifth pitch on Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park, UT. AAC member Ken Klingler [Opposing Page, Top] Julia Geisler, Kim Hall, and Jewell Lund celebrate the end of a successful weekend of climbing in Castle Valley, UT.
b AAC member Louis Arevalo [Opposing Page, Middle Left] The view from Tim Kemple’s sleeping bag while chasing sunsets, full moons, and sunrises. b AAC member Tim Kemple [Opposing Page, Middle Right] Gretchen lounging on her porch after a long day of climbing in Boulder Canyon, CO. b AAC member Leslie Hittmeier [Opposing Page, Bottom] Daniel Carnahan, Kevin Riley, and Eric Lutz on the couch at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, AR. b AAC member Lucas Marshall
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WRITINGS ON THE WALL BY DOMINIC METCALF
The Dolomites. That’s all I could think about after I hung up the phone. It was November 2013, and my partner Mac and I had just been awarded a Live Your Dream grant. I met Mac in Germany the following summer, and we rented an Audi station wagon, our home for the next month. From there we made our way across the peaks of Northern Italy. It was the biggest, most awesome climbing trip of our lives.
A special thank you to Dominic and Mac for sending us a postcard almost every day from June 13–27, 2014. We are so glad you had a great time! —AAC
a Kim Hall and Jewell Lund in Ruth Gorge, Denali National Park, AK. AAC member Ryan Jennings
20 | MEMBER S TORIES
OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGET BY JEWELL LUND Breathing hard, I pulled up to the belay. “Proud lead,” I
climbing, training, and dreaming eventually pointed us
told Kim as I wiped lichen out of my eyes. The corner pitch
toward the Alaska Range in 2014.
she’d led was covered in dried moss, and the technical granite stemming was reminiscent of a Slip ‘N Slide.
We prepared for months and trained hard for two phenomenal weeks in the Ruth Gorge. From getting
“I think I know where we’re supposed to be,” Kim said,
scrappy and scared on technical pitches on London
pointing out some weathered tat two corner systems to
Tower to a long and elegant line up Mt. Johnson, lots of
the right. I looked directly above us, where the corner
sunshine kept us busy. We flew out of the Alaska Range
petered out to a discontinuous flake system. It looked
with sunburned faces and sore muscles, content and
doable. Why not?
ready to eat our body weight in baked goods in Talkeetna.
After being awarded a Live Your Dream grant in 2012, Kim
Looking forward to 2015, with new climbing goals in
Hall and I set several goals in preparation for our dream
Alaska and Central Asia, I can’t help but pause and look
trip to the Bugaboos. We found ourselves off route with
back with gratitude. The growth that we’ve experienced
regularity on Elephant’s Perch, in the Tetons, and among
starting with the 2012 LYD trip is so deeply rooted
our local Wasatch Mountains. Sometimes we chose to
in our community: from mentorship, inspiration, and
wander. More often than not, we’d arrive at an opaque
encouragement from fellow climbers to the support of
decision point that the guidebook never mentioned. As
grants such as the AAC McNeill-Nott Award and the Mugs
we deviated, we learned. And as we learned, we began to
Stump Award. We hope to offer the same support and
relax into unknown terrain, finding ourselves enchanted
encouragement to others in our community and are glad
with the alpine. We walked away from our LYD trip with
to learn that, sometimes, off-route is exactly where we
gratitude, growth, and more climbing dreams. Lots of
want to be.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 21
SAVE PARADISE (AND PUT UP A PARKING LOT)
BY MIKE DRISKELL AND YASMEEN FOWLER
You know the feeling. You pull up to the parking area of your favorite crag on a sunny weekend morning, only to find the lot full. You turn back out onto the road, greeted by the sight of cars parked bumper-to-bumper, with every patch of dirt that could halfway pass as a parking spot already occupied. After encountering this scenario in the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve one too many times, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition took action. We settled on the perfect location for a new lot—a parcel of bottomland across Bald Rock Road from the turnoff to the main PMRP parking lot. Already owned by the RRGCC, the spot offered easy access to all of the PMRP crags, as well as the everpopular Motherlode and Chocolate Factory. Yet a soil analysis revealed that, unless we wanted to continuously dump money into the lot’s upkeep or watch it sink into the clay-and-silt ground below, we would need to invest in the proper materials and construction techniques. Building a parking lot that would cost a projected $6,000 would be a huge hit to the RRGCC’s annual $10,000 maintenance budget, so we turned to the AAC for some financial assistance. Through the Cornerstone Conservation Grant, we received $5,500 for a new parking area. By layering Geo-mesh fabric, highway stone, and gravel, our contractor created a hard-packed, well-drained lot that will withstand traffic and weathering for years to come. The parking area has provided easier access to crags in the PMRP, thus decreasing maintenance costs the RRGCC frequently incurred due to two-wheel drive vehicles attempting to maneuver the AWD roads. The new lot has also drawn attention to the newly developed, lesser-known Flat Holler crags, helping to disperse crowds across all the climbing areas the Red has to offer.
22 | MEMBER S TORIES
a Joel Unema on Charlie (5.13b) at the Chocolate Factory. b AAC member Nathan Welton GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 23
GETTING $#!T DONE BY JEFF DEIKIS
I heard the sound of Amy gagging from around the boulder. Then came our dog Obi, staggering out and licking his lips, eyes drunk with satisfaction. Hoping Obi had gotten into our lunch, but suspecting worse, I walked over to investigate and found Amy standing over a partially chewed mound of human waste and toilet paper at the base of the Birthday Boulder—a large granite block loaded with three-star problems, here in the middle of the iconic Buttermilks of Bishop, California. “What the heck is wrong with people?”
Indeed, the issue of human waste in the Buttermilks has been
Early on the morning of October 25th, 2014,
escalating rapidly, rising in tandem with the exponential growth in
a group of local volunteers and Forest Service
the popularity of climbing during the past 15 years. With a fragile
staff gathered in the main parking area and, over
high-desert environment, minimal yearly rainfall, and an ever-
the following days, built the area’s first latrine.
increasing number of visitors, the ecosystem was literally retching
The minimalist wood layout interferes as little as
the stuff back out of the soil.
possible with the stunning viewshed of the Eastern
a [This Page] Hern
Crane of the U.S. Forest Service and Andrew Schurr of the Bishop Area Climber’s Coalition put the finishing touches on the Buttermilk Toilet in Bishop, CA. [Opposing Page] Eastside volunteers lay out building materials during the construction of the AAC Buttermilk toilet. staff member Jeff Deikis
b
Sierra. And the result has been an immediate and In 2012 the American Alpine Club and a new local advocacy
drastic improvement in the desert landscape: good
organization—the Bishop Area Climber’s Coalition—set out to
for both visitors to the Buttermilks and the fragile
restart the dialog with the Inyo National Forest to address the lack
ecosystem’s flora and fauna.
of facilities in the Buttermilks. Ample funding for the project had accumulated over the years, the result of numerous local donations,
If you enjoy climbing in the Eastern Sierra, please
proceeds from the AAC’s Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic event, and a
consider donating five minutes of your time during the
grant from the Bardini Foundation. With funds in the bank and the
climbing season to help maintain the Buttermilk Toilet
community calling for solutions and teamwork, the Inyo National
facility. Email baccboard@gmail.com for information
Forest, AAC, BACC, and the Access Fund began a three-year process
on how to get involved.
that resulted in the signing of a contract committed to building and maintaining a permanent toilet in the Buttermilks.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 25
BREAKFAST FOR BOLTS BY PAUL NELSON
“A small donation gets you a plate full of pancakes, bacon, and eggs. We’ll throw in Folger’s finest for a dollar. Bring your own utensils and cups and follow the smell. The money goes to rebolting!” Each Sunday morning during the busy season in the New River Gorge, I walked from one campsite to the next, collecting morning fees and inviting campers to join us for “Breakfast, Beta, and Bolts.” By the end of May, our weekly breakfast had become the hub for climbers to meet up, grab a quick bite, spray about their latest sends, and ask each other for beta. Around that time, Chris Whisenhunt rebolted Rico Suave, a mega-classic 5.10a that nearly everyone had been on, allowing us to show diners exactly where their donations were going. Throughout the season, we raised over $700. We plan to keep the breakfast tradition going to support the New River Alliance of Climbers’ rebolting efforts and AAC campground improvements. Come join us for a good cause and some hearty grub!
CLIFF NOTES
BY JEFFREY HEARN We’ve all seen it—an inexperienced belayer lets go of their brake hand, or a party of 10 crowds at the base of the ultra-classic route they’ve chosen to toprope, directly through the chains. Over the past three years working as a climbing instructor for New River Mountain Guides and witnessing plenty of dangerous, unethical, or inconsiderate practices at the crag, I developed the idea for Cliff Notes—a living “study guide” for climbers visiting the New River Gorge. Every Friday night during the season, a certified guide from NRMG joins the AAC campfire for an open discussion. We’ve had valuable conversations, and we believe that ambassadors who care will be contagious in improving our climbing areas.
a
[Left] David Statler climbing Freaky Stylee (5.12a) at the New AAC member Dan Brayack [Right] Jessa Goebel River Gorge, WV. and Matt Wilder out for a ride up the stellar NRG arĂŞte, Two Bag AAC member Pat Goodman Face, New River Gorge, WV.
b
b
GRAND GENERATIONS BY JIM GRACE It was dawn, light breaking along the Teton spine. My
help grow our kids. We have countless family stories:
18-year-old daughter, Anna, and I were roping up at
evenings of making music around the cooking area;
the Upper Saddle before starting the Owen Spalding
foxes, bear, moose, elk, and owls appearing at the
route on the Grand. As we reviewed our climbing
edge of camp; a porcupine quill in the toe; cooking
signals, a guided group walked up. One of the guides
with people from all over the world and giving extra
said, “Hey, aren’t you Anna?”
food to dirtbag climbers (who we once were). And, almost always, on the way back to the Ranch, soaking
“Oh yeah, I remember you!” she replied, finishing
tired feet in Cottonwood Creek.
her figure eight. “We used to babysit your daughter at the Climbers’ Ranch while you and your wife went
Whether staff, climbers, hikers, wildlife watchers,
climbing. That must have been about 10 years ago.”
fisherman, Work Week workers, first-timers, or oldtimers, our extended family continues to grow every
Like so many times before, our web of friends and
summer. We’ve even had Ranch friends stop in for
family radiating from the Grand Teton Climbers’
a hot meal on our farm in Missouri when they’re
Ranch began to vibrate. The Ranch has been the hub
traveling across the country. The memories run deep,
of our family’s Rockies adventures for over 25 years.
and for our family, the connections made at the
We have always felt the other residents were good
Climbers’ Ranch span families, adventures, decades,
company and that the Ranch was a great place to
and miles.
28 | MEMBER S TORIES
a [Left] Long exposure at the Grand Teton
AAC staff member Craig Hoffman Climbers’ Ranch. [Right Top] Cousins Ada and Anna work out the kinks on a new fiddle tune after a day of hiking. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Middle] Getting the Ranch ready for peak season during Work Week 2012. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Bottom] Old friends meet and reunite on the Ranch: The Grace Family from Missouri, the Bayers from Connecticut, the Bowles from Washington. AAC member Jim Grace
b
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 29
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THE GUNKS CAMPGROUND The Gunks is world-famous for its climbing, and infamous for its lack of great lodging options. This spring, after 10 years of AAC involvement, the Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground will finally open. So come join us and get ready for hundreds of roof-filled routes high above the Hudson River Valley. Don’t forget the tricams! —Allie Levy
CAMPGROUND FACTS QQ Opening Spring 2015 QQ 20-minute walk to the Trapps QQ $24/night per campsite for members QQ $36/night for non-members QQ 26 drive-up campsites QQ 24 walk-in campsites QQ 50 acres QQ 6 showers QQ Amenities will include fire ring, covered pavilion, and more QQ Accommodates 60,000 visitors / year QQ 5.4 miles to Rock & Snow QQ 2 hours to New York City QQ 4 hours to Boston CLIMBING AND MORE IN THE GUNKS: QQ Over 1,400 routes, 5.0 to 5.14 QQ Over 500 boulder problems QQ 7,000 acres in the Mohonk Preserve QQ Campground is connected to 30 miles of carriage roads
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30 | MEMBER S TORIES
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GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 31
Our popular climbing festivals combine all things AAC: cragging, socializing, clinics, stewardship, and more. Every year, AAC communities around the country host a number of Craggin’ Classics at popular climbing destinations. Find the one closest to you and put it on your calendar! presented by
a
[Top Left] Cheyne Lempe teaches clinic participants the art of self-rescue during the 2014 Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic in Bishop, CA. AAC member Jeff AAC member Luke Humphrey [Bottom] Rueppel [Top Right] Climber pinches the pebbles on Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a), 2014 Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic, OR. AAC member Mike Schirf 2014 Salt Lake City Craggin’ Classic crew, UT.
b
32 | MEMBER S TORIES
b
b
2015 CRAGGIN’ CLASSIC SERIES SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, AUG. 28-30 HAMPSHIRE, SEPT. 11-15 OCT. 16-18
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SMITH ROCK, OREGON, SEPT. 4-6
NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA, SEPT. 18-20
SHELF ROAD, COLORADO, OCT. 31-NOV. 1
NEW YORK, TBD FALL 2015
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a [Top] Volunteers head out for the annual Buttermilk Adopt-a-Crag, the stewardship aspect of the AAC’s Fall Highball Craggin’ Classic in Bishop, CA. b AAC
member Blake McCord [Bottom] Zoe Strnad hucking for the finish hold during the dyno comp at the 2014 New River Gorge Craggin’ Classic, WV. Gabe DeWitt
b AAC member
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 33
A BELAY AROUND THE WORLD BY SAM CHU, PHOTOS BY ALTON RICHARDSON I struggled to keep my feet wedged inside the crack. Sweaty hands. Heavy breathing. Indian Creek’s legendary splitters were proving even more challenging than I had imagined in the months leading up to the International Climbers’ Meet in 2008. Even though the brunt of my climbing experience had been on granite faces, I considered myself a decent crack climber, having climbed 5.11 cracks in Argentina and Canada. But in the Creek the long, sandstone splitters are unforgiving— there are few face holds, the rock crumbles as you try to smear, and attempting to lieback is nothing but a great way to pump out. Luckily for me, things changed. On the second day of the meet, I met Kitty Calhoun. An accomplished mountaineer and talented crack climber, Kitty was one of several host climbers. And, for some unknown reason, she decided to take me under her wing for the remainder of the week. Determined to help me improve my technique, Kitty patiently shared her knowledge and skills. She guided me through the world of crack climbing, taking me from route to route to practice on a variety of crack sizes and jams—feet, toes, hands, fists, arms. By the end of the week, Kitty’s efforts paid off. As we approached Slot Machine (5.12a), a never-ending, tight-hands crack in the back of an acute dihedral, I even considered leading the route. I climbed smoothly, cruising one jam at a time. After 140 feet, I reached Kitty at the anchors, arms pumped and left knee bruised from jamming my body into the corner, a huge grin on my face. Three years later I returned to the ICM, this time in Yosemite, where I found a few familiar faces from the Creek, including Jim Donini and George Lowe. In the Creek, simply watching them climb and hearing their stories had been an inspiration, but in 2011, I had the opportunity to share a rope with George up the East Buttress of El Cap. As we climbed, I learned tricks to move efficiently on long routes. But more importantly, I realized how lucky I am to count him, and so many other ICM climbers, among my friends. And in the fall of 2014, like an addict, I returned to the ICM in Yosemite once more. There, I fought my way up an off-width crack during a clinic held by Cory Fleagle, and I had the chance to give back to the Club by teaching a wilderness first aid clinic. The ICM is the perfect reminder that it’s never about the grade you climb, or even what routes you get on—it’s all about having fun, learning, teaching, and making connections with good people from around the world on your way up.
34 | MEMBER S TORIES
ICM 2014, YOSEMITE
a [This Page, Top] The author demonstrates how to fashion a splint
for a broken ankle while in the backcountry. [This Page, Bottom Left] Scott Dyer makes the final moves on the two-pitch Munginella (5.6). [This Page, Bottom Right] Simon Sandavol fist bumps photographer Alton Richardson after sending the Sacher-Cracker (5.10a), a notoriously hard crack. [Opposing Page] ICM participants approach AAC the Sentinel Creek area during the first day of group cragging. member Alton Richardson
b
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 35
WOOD & STEEL AN INTERVIEW WITH JOE IURATO Q: Why woodcuts?
Q: One of your pieces was featured in the 2014 American Alpine Journal. Have you ever used the AAJ to get
A: I have this wonderful photo of John Bachar on Midnight
inspiration or information for a climb?
Lightning, taken by Phil Bard. It’s one of my most cherished photos, as John is one of my climbing heroes. I drew it out as a 5”
A: I dipped into the AAC archives a lot when I was editor-in-
stencil, cut it, and sprayed it above the back door of my family’s
chief of Urban Climber Magazine. Truth be told, I’m a boulderer
restaurant, where there was this thin crack that ran to the roof.
through and through, but I take inspiration from all disciplines
That’s where it began.
of climbing. I’m also fanatical about history, and the AAJ has been a great resource.
I did that again with the image of John cut out of cardboard and placed him above a small vent grate, with a few spotters below
Q: Has climbing influenced how you view the world?
him. It created a scene and utilized more of the environment. Ultimately, woodcuts were more sturdy than cardboard.
A: Absolutely. Climbers view nature differently, much the same way a skateboarder views architecture differently. For us to
Q: Do you have a favorite climbing-inspired piece that
distinguish a sequence in a piece of rock, to stand at its base
you’ve done?
and visualize a definite line to get from point A to point B, is pretty remarkable. It’s creativity. Through observation of details
A: Not exactly. Each woodcut I create has its own story and
and applying technique, a climb is formed. Most wouldn’t get it,
personal connection, and then I do my best to place it in a way
but it’s there and we see it. I approach my street works with the
that’s believable and correct. Whether it’s climbing a crack in a
same pair of glasses.
cement wall, topping out on a window ledge, or dynoing to a shadow, as long as there’s truth in the sequence—one that leaves the viewer (especially fellow climbers) anticipating what happens next—then I’m happy.
36 | MEMBER S TORIES
ABOUT THE
ARTIST Joe grew up with the constant rhythm of his father’s printing press running in the basement. But art was not the only major impression on his early life—15 years ago he fell in love with climbing at the Gunks. Today Joe’s
wood-cut
artwork,
inspired
by climbing, has gained significant attention from the art world.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 37
38 | MEMBER S TORIES
LEARNING FROM TRAGEDY BY DAVID THOENEN The news of a climber’s death sends shock waves slamming through family, friends, and the climbing community. A cycle of denial and grief follows. Eventually most mourners arrive at a level of acceptance. At that point, the opportunity emerges to initiate a constructive response to tragedy. In July 2012, Eric Metcalf, a 19-year-old climber making his transition from gym to crag, died in a rappelling accident on the Sentinel Buttress of Moore’s Wall, a popular trad area in North Carolina. Several days after a moving memorial service, three members of the AAC’s Southern Appalachian Section—Danny McCracken, Aram Attarian, and myself—met for burritos and resolved to improve knowledge of rappelling practices in hopes of reducing accidents. We debated whether to forward a proposal to the Club office for consideration, or actively build a program ourselves using AAC section resources. By the time the last burrito wrapper had hit the trash can, our confidence in the power of grassroots initiatives had carried the day. With the AAC’s support, we launched a series of local, free clinics designed for experienced climbers. I served as project manager, and Danny and Aram, both AMGA certified instructors, taught rappelling tips and tricks along with best practices. For content we turned to “Know the Ropes: Rappelling,” an educational primer in the 2012 edition of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. After completing two pilot classes, we were confident that the clinic was ready for prime time. By the end of 2014, with help from a terrific team of AAC volunteers, our Southern Appalachian Section had delivered over 25 clinics to climbers throughout the Southeastern U.S. An additional five clinics have been offered in other regions. Our commitment has been to the entire climbing community, not just AAC members, and more than 250 climbers have attended so far. Danny, Aram, and I believe that our project serves as a solid example of what motivation, initiative, and commitment of volunteers and industry partners can accomplish. And in honor of Eric, we will continue to offer clinics and expand the program.
a Amy Futch rappels from the top of Table Rock, NC. AAC member Eric Cox GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 39
LIFELINE
BY STEVE SWENSON
My head was light as I gazed out over the endless spines of Karakoram giants, picking out K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums scraping against the bluebird sky. We had just made the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, the secondtallest unclimbed mountain in the world. What incredible fortune: a team of friends, a virgin 7,500-meter peak, an absolutely perfect day. It was surreal. The joy was short-lived. I could hardly breathe when Mark gave me a celebratory squeeze on the summit. I was suffering a relapse of the sinus infection I had been fighting for the previous month and felt weak. We descended to high camp, and I spent a sleepless night sitting in the doorway of the tent coughing and hacking up phlegm into the snow. The next day it took over 30 rappels to get from high camp to the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier, where we arrived at our skis a couple hours after dark. We eventually found our camp on the glacier, and it was after midnight when we went to bed. I was exhausted and still feeling poorly, but I didn’t realize at the time just how serious my condition would become. At 3 a.m. I woke up coughing. The mucus had become so thick from dehydration that it was getting stuck in my trachea, and I was choking on it. I knew I was in trouble so I woke Mark from his hard-earned sleep. After watching one of my coughing and choking sessions he realized the severity of the situation. Mark woke Freddie, and they made a call to a doctor friend who confirmed that I could choke to death on my own mucus. They decided to evacuate. Mark communicated our position and situation to Global Rescue, Rimo Expeditions in Leh, and his wife Teresa, who was also in Leh. They contacted the Indian government and started the complex process to obtain approval for an Indian Air Force helicopter to carry out the evacuation. They had never landed a helicopter on this glacier before. I was frightened, and it was hard not to panic each time I coughed and had to clear a new airway. Freddie tried to calm me down. “We’re learning how to manage this situation as we go along, Steve. You’re going to be OK.” He and Mark built a chair in the snow so I could sit outside and be more comfortable. And our Indian team members Thinless, Dhan Singh, Tashi, Tshering, and Pemba would take turns lifting me up every time I started coughing to open my diaphragm. They boiled tea for me, and after several hours of rehydration I finally coughed up the bulk of the thick phlegm and was able to breathe more freely. But I was still sick, exhausted, and weak. Around 4 p.m. two Indian Air Force helicopters appeared over the glacier and one landed on the pad Freddie had stomped out in the snow. Thinless and Dahn Singh helped me to the chopper. Within an hour we had touched down in Leh where Teresa accompanied me to the hospital. I’m very grateful for my friends and rescuers who saved my life. No matter how thoroughly you prepare, you can never plan for everything, and as climbers there is always another lesson to learn.
a Steve Swenson rescued off the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier. Stills from The Old Breed, filmed, edited, and produced by AAC members. 40 | MEMBER S TORIES
THE DREAM ROOM BY BRENDAN LEONARD I have told more than one friend that the
be able to hang onto on our 50th try. We spend
American Alpine Club Library is half the reason
years, decades, or lifetimes outside trying to do
I’m an AAC member, and I’m not lying.
climbing. The library is the place I go to further try to understand climbing: why I do it, why it’s
Theoretically, I go to the library for “work
different in different places, why other people
reasons”—I write about the outdoors and
have always done it, how it’s changing, and where
climbing regularly, and need to research routes,
else in the world I should go to do it next year or
climbing
the year after.
areas,
biographies,
and
history.
But more often than not, I find two hours of research stretching into four hours or more,
I have given the library the nickname “The Dream
as I get distracted by a book on the shelf, then
Room,” and as I research articles I’m writing, I add
another one, plop down on the floor, and several
to the never-ending list of places to see before
minutes later, glance at my watch to see how
I die: mountains a thousand miles or an ocean
late it’s gotten. A biography of Riccardo Cassin, a
away, crags on magic islands halfway around the
guidebook to the South Platte, or plaisir climbs in
world, traverses that have been done once or a
the Swiss Alps… who knew Iowa State University
thousand times, through-hikes that sound like a
had a mountaineering club in the ’60s, let alone a
great weeklong or monthlong way to get away
journal? I’ve never climbed in the Adirondacks, or
from everything.
Utah’s West Desert, or the Dolomites—but maybe I should take a few minutes and thumb through
There are dozens of reasons to be an AAC
these guidebooks.
member, of course. But one of the most important, to me, is a room in the basement of the
As climbers, we know how to focus, or even fixate,
American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO,
on single ideas: that 80-foot bolted route in our
holding the stories, records, photos, and maps of
backyard that we have wired except for the crux
the collective thousands of years of international
move, or the line we watch for years hoping this
mountaineering experience we’ve amassed ever
will be the year it comes in fat enough to climb
since we started walking into the big hills to see
in October, or the crimp on a boulder we might
what was up there.
b AAC member Hilary Oliver
BIG RIGS TO BIG WALLS
Think you spend a lot of time on the road? Eric Peterson, 46, and Matt Hopkins, 28, have you beat with a collective 225,000 miles under their belts just last year. These nomadic climbers have figured out how to make the most of “getting paid to road trip” in their semis. Eric first connected with Matt after seeing his expedition to Aconcagua featured in a trucking magazine. Since then, Eric, who transports specialized, oversize equipment, and Matt, who hauls cattle, have met up in Colorado, Montana, and beyond to take some time off the road and get out climbing. —Allie Levy
44 | MEMBER S TORIES
ERIC AND MATT’S TIPS FOR DIRTBAGGING LIKE A PRO 1. Dirtbagging, or trucking, is no excuse for poor hygiene. You can find showers for a few dollars at any truck stop. You never know who you might meet, or when you might be sharing a ride to the airport with Conrad Anker. 2. Never get caught unprepared. Whether in your rig or on a climb, always bring a jug of water, some snacks, and—of course—a Restop bag. 3. Always have an alternate mode of transportation, be it a mountain bike, a pair of rollerblades, a skateboard, or a donkey. If you break down, make sure you have a way out. 4. Be friendly. See a guy wearing Five Ten approach shoes and a Patagonia Nano Air, with a BD Hoodwire on his key chain? Strike up a conversation—he could be your next climbing partner. 5. If you miss your exit, don’t slam on the brakes. Keep going. You never know what you might find around the next bend.
a Matt Hopkins goes for the first ascent of Cattle Crates (M00). Brian Smith/High Mountain Photography for Overdrive Magazine
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 45
“
19
G
D
13
MEMORIES: GLEN DAWSON Glen Dawson made a name for himself when he and his team pioneered the east face of Mt. Whitney. The year: 1931. Born in 1913, Glen has been a member of the AAC since 1933, making him the oldest living member of the Club. A WWII soldier in the Tenth Mountain Division, lifetime antiquarian bookseller, publisher, and mountaineer, Glen tells stories of the Good Old Days when climbing meant charting territory completely unknown to man. The gear he used in his circa-1930 climbs was comparable to that exhibited in the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, from the days of hobnailed boots and hemp ropes. When the man talks, you listen, hoping to catch a glimpse of The West that John Muir was talking about. —Kaitlin Sullivan
“Ansel Adams accompanied me on the 1929 High Trip to Tuolumne Meadows. He was my climbing partner, Jules Eichorn’s, piano teacher at the time. It was during the 1934 High Trip along Sawtooth Ridge that we [Dawson, Jack Riegelhuth, Ted Waller] named a peak after Adams: Mt. Ansel Adams, about 12,000 feet.”
46 | MEMBER S TORIES
“
“My first notable climb was the first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney. Jules Eichorn and I were 19 years old and just did what we were told, with Robert Underhill and Norman Clyde leading. It only took us three-and-a-quarter hours.”
“I accredit Francis Farquhar as the climber who had the greatest impact on me as a young climber. He suggested that I apply for [AAC] membership—in those days you had to apply. I applied and was accepted. The home of Francis and Marjory Farquhar was the place for regular gatherings of people interested in climbing. There were refreshments or a meal. There was a book discussion or a talk and informal questions and answers.” “I was leader of the trip up the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. It was 1937, and it was my idea—I picked the participants. As I remember, I only made it once, though it is my favorite climb. But if I could revisit one climb, it would be the Mt. Fuji trip in 1936. The trail had big stones. A lot of people, including school children, were passing me, and I was passing them. I was by myself, and I enjoyed the people. It was a noted peak, and I enjoyed the feeling it gave me.” “Originally the goal of climbing was to get to the top of a certain point. Then it was to scale difficult routes or make a traverse from one peak to another.”
a
[Top Left] Glen Dawson leaps a gorge at Stoney Point during a photo shoot for a Lipton Tea advertisement, 1937. Bill Rice (left) and Muir Dawson (right) look on. Howard Gate courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Top Right] Portrait of a teenage Glen Dawson taken by Ansel Adams. Courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Middle] Climbing party the day after first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney, August 16, 1931. Left to Right: Jules Eichorn, Norman Clyde, Robert L. M. Underhill, Glen Dawson. Francis Farquhar courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Bottom] Members of the party who made the first ascent of the East Buttress route on Mt. Whitney, September 5, 1937. Front row, Left to Right: Dick Jones, Muir Dawson, Glen Dawson. Back row, Left to Right: Bob Brinton, Howard Koster. George Shochat courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 47
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
49
2014 ANNUAL REPORT
50
MEMBERSHIP • GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP
51
GET INVOLVED
52
DISCOUNTS
53
PUBLICATIONS • EXPLORE • LIBRARY MUSEUM • PROFILE • LOCAL DISCOUNTS
54
RESCUE • GRANTS
55
2014 GRANTS
56
DONORS
58
PARTNERS
59
CORPORATE PARTNERS
60
BOARD • STAFF
2014 ANNUAL REPORT “I hope you’ll agree that the Club today is more active, relevant, and present in your life. Our position is financially sound and poised to deliver even more value to both members and the climbing community writ large. Thank you for being a part of this success.” —Phil Powers, AAC Chief Executive Officer A FEW 2014 HIGHLIGHTS QQ $5.7MM Campaign for Climbers completed!
QQ Began construction on Gunks Campground
QQ Fundraising revenue +13% over 2013
QQ Launched online Member Share network
QQ Membership revenue +18% over 2013
QQ Deepened commitment to climbing education
Read the entire report at americanalpineclub.org/p/2014-annual-report.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 49
MEMBERSHIP JOIN THE COMMUNITY Together, we share a passion for climbing. When you join the AAC, you’re part of a tribe that’s making a big difference. We support each other with rescue insurance, critical lodging facilities, conservation projects, advocacy, grants, discounts, and more. MEMBERS ON AUTO-RENEW SAVE $10 PER YEAR. REGULAR: $80/YEAR
JOINT: $135/YEAR
Members ages 29-65.
For two climbers: partners, spouses, residents of the same van, whatever. Both members get AAC benefits, but we send only one set of publications and mailings to keep it eco-friendly—and wallet-friendly.
JUNIOR: $45/YEAR Members ages 28 and younger.
LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP • LIFETIME $2,500 • LIFETIME JOINT $4,000 Show your dedication to the climbing community and support your fellow members and climbers for life.
SENIOR: $55/YEAR
Dues are permanently waived after this one-time payment. Benefits forever!
Members ages 66 and older. Visit americanalpineclub.org/join or call 303-384-0110 and press 0.
GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP The Great Ranges Fellowship brings our donor-members together with exclusive events and trips, timely “insider” communications, extra benefits, and access to staff and officials like never before. At the AAC we value every gift—no matter its size. In recognition of our most generous donors, we’ve created this program. The Great Ranges Fellowship provides consistent benefits, recognition,
TEEWINOT FELLOW – $1,000
and communication to donors at various levels. We strive to be inclusive
QQ Exclusive Great Ranges Fellowship jacket
of all climbing disciplines and recognize that all climbers have different
QQ Recognition in the American Alpine Journal
charitable interests and capacities of support. Most gifts qualify toward
QQ Recognition in the Guidebook to Membership
annual membership in the GRF including those directed toward key
QQ Subscription to Alpinist magazine
operating programs such as the American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, The American Alpine Club Library, the AAC Grand
QQ Inclusion in the Fellowship Updates email notices ROBSON FELLOW – $2,500
Teton Climbers’ Ranch, and AAC grant programs. The program does not
QQ All the benefits of Teewinot Fellow, plus:
include Corporate Partners, Media Partners, or fiduciary programs such
QQ Invitation for two to VIP Reception at the Annual Benefit Dinner with
as expedition support.
purchase of tickets ALPAMAYO FELLOW – $5,000 QQ All the benefits of Robson Fellow, plus:
POWERED BY:
QQ A special hardcover edition of the American Alpine Journal QQ Two AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family EIGER FELLOW – $10,000
Great Ranges Fellowship member benefits include all regular AAC
QQ All the benefits of Alpamayo Fellow, plus:
member benefits plus:
QQ Two additional (four total) invitations to VIP Reception at the Annual Benefit Dinner with purchase of tickets
QQ VIP invitations to a variety of events in your area and around the nation QQ Exclusive and timely communications regarding key Club issues
QQ Two additional (four total) AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family
QQ Invitations to exclusive AAC climbing trips annually QQ Regular annual AAC membership (beginning at your current exp. date)
50 | BE TA
Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/p/great-ranges-fellowship.
GET INVOLVED HOW TO GIVE
MEMBER SHARE
Your tax-deductible gift to the American Alpine Club helps members
Your new profile is a place to connect with fellow climbers and meet up,
and volunteers pursue the mission and core programs of the Club.
whether they’re near or far. You can now:
From conservation to competency, your donation will work to protect the climbing experience for years to come. Options for giving include
QQ find a climbing partner
a one-time gift, monthly giving program, matched gift, planned giving,
QQ find a couch to sleep on during your next climbing trip
stock donation, combined federal campaign, or Great Ranges Fellowship
QQ discover local discounts
contribution.
QQ sync up your Mountain Project profile QQ and much more!
Visit
americanalpineclub.org/p/give
or
us
at
give@
americanalpineclub.org to give or learn about your preferred method of
To access Member Share, login to your profile at americanalpineclub.org/
support.
login using the email address and password you created when joining.
HOW TO VOLUNTEER
REFERRALS
We are always looking for people to help out in a number of ways,
The more members we have, the better we can fulfill our mission—so
including volunteering at member parties, tabling at local climbing gyms,
please invite your friends and family to join our ranks. Not only will your
sitting on a committee, or helping with larger regional events like the
friends get access to AAC benefits when they sign up, but you’ll also earn
Annual Benefit Dinner or Craggin’ Classic Series.
rewards for referring them.
Contact your Regional Manager to get involved:
Login to your profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org/invitations for more information and to access your personalized invites.
NORTHWEST REGION Eddie Espinosa eespinosa@americanalpineclub.org
SOCIAL MEDIA Facebook: facebook.com/AmericanAlpineClub
WESTERN REGION
Twitter: twitter.com/americanalpine
Jeff Deikis
Instagram: instagram.com/americanalpine
jdeikis@americanalpineclub.org ROCKIES & CENTRAL REGIONS Adam Peters apeters@americanalpineclub.org NORTHEAST & SOUTHEAST REGIONS Lisa Hummel lhummel@americanalpineclub.org
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 51
DISCOUNTS Access via americanalpineclub.org/discounts.
FEATURED MEMBER GEAR DISCOUNTS*
20% off**
10-30% off**
AAC ONLINE STORE PMS 647c c100 m56 y0 k23 r0 g86 b149
40% off
25% off
20% off
20% off
20% off
20% off
FEATURED ONLINE RETAILERS*
$15 off orders of $75+**
$10 off when you sign up through the AAC
Spend $75+ and get a free webolette
20% off, apparel only
90% BLACK
100% WHITE
$10 free when you sign up through the AAC
MAGAZINES*
1 year, 4 issues, $29.95
1 year, 8 issues, $9.95
1 year,10 issues, $12.95
1 year, 9 issues, $9.99 & a free gift: Classic Trails digital booklet
ADDITIONAL DISCOUNTS* QQ Smith & Wesson
QQ Abel Reels
QQ Deadfall
QQ Icebreaker
QQ Ortlieb
QQ Adventure Medical Kits
QQ DeFeet
QQ iClimb.com
QQ Pivothead
QQ Airblaster
QQ DeLorme
QQ Insta-Bed
QQ Rave Sports
QQ Superfeet
QQ Asana
QQ Dogfunk
QQ Julbo
QQ Red Wing
QQ Suunto
QQ Barebones
QQ Dublin Dog
QQ Kammock
QQ RMU
QQ Swiftwick
QQ Beacon Audio
QQ Endevr
QQ Kelty
QQ Rock-Slide Engineering
QQ Teqtronix
QQ Big Agnes
QQ Evolv
QQ Klean Kanteen
QQ Rockwell
QQ Top of the World Books
QQ BlueCosmo Satellite
QQ Fighter Design
QQ Kurgo
QQ Selkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;bag
QQ Ultimate Direction
Communications
QQ First Light USA
QQ Light and Motion
QQ Sharp End Publishing
QQ Vigilante
QQ Braven
QQ Fox Head
QQ Minus33
QQ Sierra Designs
QQ Y&Y Belay Goggles USA
QQ Bully Dog
QQ Gaerne Cycling
QQ Montrail
QQ Sierra Designs
QQ Zamberlan
QQ Burley
QQ Gnarly
QQ Mountain Khakis
QQ Slacklines Industries
QQ Zeal Optics
QQ Competitive Cyclist
QQ Gregory Packs
QQ NEMO Equipment
QQ Slumberjack
QQ Crosstac
QQ GU Energy Gel
QQ Ninja Suit
Flashlights
*Member discounts are subject to change. Discount percentages listed are approximations and may not apply to every product. Though we try to provide you with accurate information, we cannot guarantee you will receive the discount rates listed here or on our website. **Restrictions may apply.
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BETA PUBLICATIONS
LIBRARY
Print copies of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American
The Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library, located in Golden, CO,
Mountaineering are included as part of your membership each summer.
provides you with all the information you could ever want on mountain
Digital editions of the books are available through your online profile.
culture and climbing routes. Our staff and volunteers are happy to assist
Members may opt out of receiving print copies of AAC publications by
with research and trip planning. Our collection of over 50,000 books and
visiting their account settings at profile.americanalpineclub.org. To search
videos is always growing.
any article ever published in the American Alpine Journal or Accidents, visit publications.americanalpineclub.org.
QQ Bookmail: AAC members can borrow up to 10 books and five videos at a time for 28 days. Books may be checked out online and sent
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind—it documents “the worlds
anywhere in the U.S. You only pay for return shipping. QQ Use our online Guidebook Finder to check out a guidebook before your next trip.
most significant climbs.” The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the year’s most cutting-edge ascents, big new
To find a specific book, visit booksearch.americanalpineclub.org.
routes, and unexplored potential. ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING
MUSEUM
To be more prepared for our adventures, the AAC publishes Accidents in
A joint venture of the American Alpine Club and Colorado Mountain
North American Mountaineering. Our goal is to record the most notable
Club, the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in
climbing accidents of the year and analyze what went wrong. We hope
Golden, CO, is the only museum in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to
this service helps you learn from the mistakes of others, come home
mountaineering and rock climbing. The museum hosts rotating exhibits
safely, and climb again tomorrow.
and showcases a scale model of Mt. Everest, the ice axe Pete Schoening used to save five falling ice climbers on K2 in 1953, and equipment from
EXPLORE
the first American ascent of Mt. Everest. Stop by to browse at your leisure, or join us for one of our monthly happy hours.
Explore is a community resource that shares the AAC’s special and digital collections online. For more than a century, the Club has collected letters,
For more information, visit mountaineeringmuseum.org.
diaries, photographs, gear, and other material that give vital and unique information about our community’s history and culture. Until recently these archives could only be seen by visiting the AAC in Golden, CO. Today you can access thousands of artifacts—and the stories behind
PROFILE By visiting your online profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org, you can:
them—online. QQ find AAC events in your area Check it out at explore.americanalpineclub.org and please consider
QQ access all your benefits
contributing your own digital resources to our growing collection.
QQ invite your friends to join the Club and score free swag QQ donate to the Club QQ access Member Share to find climbing partners and share beta QQ update your account settings
LOCAL DISCOUNTS Additional discounts on gear, lodging, climbing gyms, and guide services vary by region. To view your local discounts, visit americanalpineclub.org/ discounts.
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 53
RESCUE / GRANTS RESCUE
GRANTS
AAC members are automatically eligible for $10,000 of total rescue
Each year, the AAC gives over $100,000 toward climbing, conservation,
benefits. Step past the trailhead and you’re covered for any human-
and research grants to help you realize your climbing dreams and protect
powered, land-based activity.
the places we love.
TRAILHEAD RESCUE
CLIMBING GRANTS
QQ $5,000 global coverage QQ No elevation restriction
LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT
QQ To use the Trailhead Rescue service, members
All climbers have dreams. Let us help you live yours. The Live Your Dream
must call Global Rescue at (617) 459-4200 as
grant, powered by the North Face, is designed to help you, the everyday
soon as possible during an emergency
adventurer, take your abilities to the next level. Receive $200–$1,000 of seed funding to jumpstart your next adventure.
DOMESTIC RESCUE BENEFIT QQ $5,000 reimbursement for out-of-pocket rescue expenses within the U.S. only—Canada and Mexico excluded QQ File a claim within 30 days of evacuation by emailing claims@
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD The world’s most elite climbing grant, funding boundary-setting expeditions equipped with only the bare essentials.
americanalpineclub.org or calling (303) 384-0110. Reimbursement is subject to verification and approval.
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD Designed for small teams that plan to document and share their ascents,
RESCUES IN 2014
primarily on unclimbed objectives in distant ranges that require a high
In 2014, 24 members were rescued thanks to the Trailhead Rescue
level of skill and commitment.
Benefit, and three members received reimbursement from the Domestic Rescue Benefit.
ZACK MARTIN BREAKING BARRIERS GRANT A dual-purpose grant that funds projects with a humanitarian primary
UPGRADE
objective and a secondary objective involving climbing.
AAC members may upgrade to a full Global Rescue membership at a 5% discount. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/rescue.
MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD Funding amateurs exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small and lightweight teams. MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT Funding significant trips for inspired climbers ages 25 and younger. CONSERVATION GRANTS CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT Funding infrastructure that protects and conserves climbing areas in the United States. SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANTS Funding expeditions that support and improve the health of mountain environments and habitats. RESEARCH GRANTS The AAC’s Research Committee administers funds from the Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Research Fund and Bedayn Research Fund to support scientific research projects that align with AAC values and charter. For more about each grant, including application deadlines and funds available, visit americanalpineclub.org/grants.
54 | BE TA
2014 GRANTS LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT ROCKIES Jeff Dobrinyi $800 Travis Drake $850 Sibylle Hechtel $750 Angela Tomczik $600
Andrew Manton $500 Peter McCarthy $500 Quendallyn Mickelwait $500 Myles Moser $1,000 Lindsay Ryder $500
SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT Jenny Abegg $350 Alison Criscitiello $625 Ryan Vachon $625
LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD
RESEARCH GRANTS
SOUTHEAST Billy Brown $800 Cindy Maloney $800 Cole Casserly $612 Dominic Metcalf $612 Kenny House $612 Matthew Morris $800 Maya Zambrano-Lee $612 Michael Dannhardt $612 Sheila Reddy $1,612
Kyle Dempster $3,000 Christopher Wright $3,000 Alan Rousseau $3,000 Jared Vilhauer $3,000
Alexandra Giese $900 Meagan Oldfather $300 Will Petry $450 Katreen Jones $900 Kellen Nelson $900 Leander Anderegg $800 Elizabeth Balgord $300 Steven Emerman $450
CENTRAL Dan Brazil $500 Eric Carter $300 James Schroeder $500 Ron Schilb $200 Sarah Micheels $500
ZACH MARTIN BREAKING BARRIERS GRANT
NORTHEAST Daniel Chen $700 Brandon Martin $700 Hanna Lucy $1,000 Zeb Engberg $1,200 Griffin Biedron $200 Christopher Desir $700 Stephen Scott $500 NORTHWEST Ammi Midstokke $250 Candi Cook $500 Emily Reinsel $200 Jenny Abegg $200 Katherine Bill $250 Ryan Cudo $350 Shawna Cooke $350 Szu-ting Yi $500 Ian Bolliger $350 Vanessa Burdick $400 Kathryn Schlaich $400 Alicia Imbody $250 WESTERN David Allfrey $1,000 Brian Biancardi $500 Allison Feinberg $500 Laura Henn $500 Michelle Kinny $500 Paul Koubek $500 Ryan Leary $500 Brad Lipovsky $500 McKenzie Long $500
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD Graham Zimmerman $4,000 Austin Siadak $8,000 Jessa Goebel $5,000 Erik Bonnett $3,000
Sean Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill $2,500 MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD Sarah Fritz $1,000 Quinn Brett $4,000 MOUNTAINERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT FALL Garrett Genereux $800 Kate Hale $600 Matthew Morriss $800 Natalie Afonina $800 Alex Quitiquit $800 Andrew Lam $800 SPRING Andrew Fink $500 Leland Krych $800 David Fay $800 Emily Matherly $400 Keenan Waeschle $600 Kyle Pratt $800 Matthew Lemke $500 Neil Hansen $600 Cole Kennedy $500 John Collis $500 CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT Salt Lake Climbers Alliance $5,500 Kansas City Climbing Club $3,500 Michigan University Outdoors Club $3,000 Cottonwood Gulch Foundation $1,500 Friends of Muir Valley $6,000 North Carolina Outward Bound School $800 Rocky Mountain Field Institute $2,200 Wildlands Restoration Volunteers $1,000 Boulder Climbers Coalition $1,500
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 55
Stanley Dempsey Ed Diffendal Newton Dominey David Dornan Jeff Dozier $10,000+ Ronald Ulrich Richard Draves EIGER FELLOW Finn Wentworth Ken Ehrhart Anonymous (2) Charles Eilers $2,500-$4,999 Yvon & Malinda ROBSON FELLOW Stuart Ellison Chouinard Anonymous (2) Denise Elmer Kevin Duncan Warren Adelman Dan Emmett Jim Edwards Robert Behrens Terrence English Charles & Lisa James Brady Marc Evankow Fleischman Ralph Burns John Evans Timothy Forbes David Burton James Frank Clark Gerhardt Bruce Carroll Paul Gagner Rocky Henderson Christine Case Ellen Gallant Todd Hoffman Jeffrey Cohen James & Franziska Lou Kasischke Madrone Coopwood Garrett James Kennedy Christopher Croft Neil Gehrels Mark Kroese James Crosslin Karl Gerdes Craig McKibben Joseph Davidson Bill Givens Peter Metcalf Scott Davis Charles Goldman Mark & Teresa Richey William Davis Kenneth Goodwin Cody J Smith Philip Duff Kevin Grant The Spitzer Family $1,000-$2,499 Jesse Dwyer Richard Griffith Foundation TEEWINOT FELLOW Rick Hanheide Steven Swenson & Ann Greg Engelman Anonymous (2) Philip Erard Jason Hanold Dalton Nicole Alger & Zachary Robert Hastings Doug & Maggie Walker Gary Evans Karabell Ruth Ewing John Hebert Lawerance True & Nathan Allen Charlotte Fox Christopher Heintz Linda Brown Jon Anderson Jim Frush Scot Hillman Melissa Arnot Neil Gleichman Mark Hingston $5,000-$9,999 James Balog ALPAMAYO FELLOW David Goeddel Michael Hodges Ansara Family Fund Peter Sam Addis & Gus COL Christopher Bates Marley & Jennifer Vaclav Benes Doug & Sandy Beall Goldman Hodgson Gordon A. Benner M.D. Barbara Hoffman Edmund & Betsy Cabot Jan Greenspan Foundation Wayne & Cynthia Griffin Brook Bennett Scott Holder Bob Berger Alpenglow Foundation Syed Haider Thomas Jenkins Laura Bothwell Chadwick Christine Jeffrey Hall Corey Jensen Tanya Bradby & Martin William Kennedy Maryclaire & Jim Collis Robert Hall Slovacek Yonsuk Derby Colleen Hinton Michael Kidder John Bragg Kit DesLauriers Richard E. Hoffman Rodney Korich Tom Bratton James & Cheryl M.D. Phil Lakin Deanne Buck Duckworth Denny Hogan Kyle Lefkoff Jeff Buhl Bruce Franks Thomas & Kathy Paul Lego Thomas Burch Gerald Gallwas Hornbein George Lilley William Burd Marilyn Geninatti Robert Hyman & Chris Lynch Ailie Byers Sandy Hill Deborah Atwood Sheila Matz Deirdre Byers Jeffrey Hoffman Thomas Janson John G. McCall M.D. Robert Campbell Shelly Malkin Mark Kassner James McCarthy Randall Carmichael James Morrissey Timothy Klostermeier George McCown Susan Clark Vanessa O’Brien Jamie Logan Danny McCracken Dan Cohen Wolf Riehle George Lowe III Gary McElvany Kevin Cooney David Riggs Brent Manning Melissa McQueen Kimberly Coupounas Carey Roberts Weston Markham Garry Menzel Matt & Charlotte Naoe Sakashita Paul Morrow Doris Michaels Culberson Steve & Paula Mae Hilaree O’Niell Hacksaw Karen Daubert Schwartz Daniel Peck Richard Nolting Alain De Lotbiniere William & Barbra Straka Matthew Pruis Alan Pace Tony Decaneas Theodore Streibert John Reppy John Parsons Tom Degenhardt
DONORS
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Dan Rose Paul Rose Stewart Sayah Mark Schumacher Stephen Scofield Howard Sebold A.C. Sherpa Kapp Singer George N. Smith Gregory Smith Patricia Smith Alan Spielberg Bob Strode Lewis Surdam Joshua Swidler David Thoenen Clint Treadwell Paul Underwood Chris Warner Mark Wilford James Wilson Robert Wilson Ji Wu Eric Yollick
Alan Peterson Seth Thomas Pietras John Pope Phil Powers & Sarah Pierce Louis Reichardt John Reilly Jim Richards Michael Riley Sam Ritchie Joel Robinson Howard Runyon Richard Salisbury Jeb Sanford Charles Sassara III Nancy Savickas Rebecca Schild George Shaw Jay Smith Vincent Starzinger John Stauffer Jennifer Stephenson Robert Stephenson Duncan Stuart Arthur Sulzberger Jack Tackle Thomas Taplin Erwin Thomet Martin Torresquintero John Townsend Lein Tung Dieter Von Hennig Cleonice Weidlich Warren Wilhide Todd Winzenried Fred Wolfe Thomas Wong David Young Keegan Young Rob Ziegler $500-$999
Andrew Allan Conrad Anker Chris Archer Kristin Bennett Ronald Bixby Virginia Boucher Robert Branch Paul Brunner Leslie Buckland Pete Burhop Paul Byrne Jonathan Chaplin Thomas Clemente John Connor Robert Craig Rupert Dance Mark Daughtridge John Davidge Robert Dodson Christopher Downs Lee Elman William Everheart Tracy Faber John Feagin William Fetterhoff Carlo Filiaci
Roland Fleck Anne Frantz Gregory Frux Charles Fuller Steven Goryl Eric Green Richard Griffith Carl Hancock Kenji Haroutunian Robert Heuman Craig Hoffman Harrison Hood Hunter Horgan Jonathan Hough Frank Hugelmeyer Bradford Johnston Anne Kellogg Richard Kipper Ken Krome Miles Kunkel Erik Lambert Michael Lederer Michael Lewis Steve Linton Jeff Lowe J. Patrick Luke Shane Lundgren Songhui Ma Pierre Macbeth Edward Matthews Mary Ann Matthews David Medlar Richard Merritt John Messervy Sarah Micheels Michael Miller Kristin Moehl Barrett Morgan Michael Morrison Alan Nagel Mie Nakane Dan Nordstrom Geoffrey O’Keeffe David Oka David Padwa Brian Quinif Alfred Randall Bernard Rusnock John Sanchez Werner Schueller Greg Sievers Samuel Silverstein David Swanson William Thompson Richard Tocher Angelina Trujillo Alexander Uy Edward Vaill Carolyn Wallace James Wason Robert Whitby John (Jed) Williamson Timothy Wilt Steve Wunsch John Young
$200-$499
Lisa Abbott Rick Accomazzo Peter Ackroyd Shaika Ahmed Mark Aiston Kay Alden John All Frank Alling Barrett Amos Jennifer Arnold Philippe Asseily William Atkinson Roselin Atzwanger Chuck Aude John Baer
Carol Baker Chris Bakwin Stephen Bartlett Steve Bartlett George Basch Vernon Bass Robert Bates Estate Kenneth Bayne Christopher Beals Chris & Gali Beh Walter Benoit Richard Bickel Hugh Bingham Colby Birchfield Cherie Blackburn Charles Blackwell Shelley Bloom Richard Booth James Borden Sarah Bouckoms Racquel Bracken David Breashears Patrick Brighton Grant Brill Bradley Brooks Charles Brown Wesley Brown Rebecca Burgmeier Duncan Burke Robert Burns Eric Burrell Deanna Byck Audrey Cadwallader Gerald Calbaum Marc Capozzola Thomas Carano Bob Carmichael Daniel Casey Michael Catlett Kerri Cechovic Michael Chessler Jerome Chin Christopher Clarke Gregory Collins Paul Cooley John Cooney Kuyler Coopwood David Coward Dan Cox William Cox Caspar Cronk Ronald Crystal Jim Davidson Michael Davies Megan Delehanty Stephen DenHartog Robin DeSota Chris Dey Richard Dietz Rhea Dodd Jonathan Dorn Melvyn Douglas Richard Dudley Mark Duffy David Dugdale Alan Durfee David Dyess Alexander Eaton Pam Eaton Mark Eddy Roy Ellis Phil Ensign Todd Fairbairn Mark Fedow Thomas Flaherty Michael Follari Paul Frantz Benjamin Frazer Marc Frenkel Jennifer Friedberg Alexander Friedman Keith Fullenweider Thomas Gaidus
Christopher Galligan Michael Gauthier Jeffrey Gelles Stephen Geremia Jay Getzel Catherine Gibson John Gioannini Mihai Giurgiulescu Eli Gottlieb Robert Graver Heather Gray Lee Green John Gregory Richard Gromlovits James Handschy Jeff Hanks Peter Hansen Ronald Hanson Roger Hartl Lauren Head Sibylle Hechtel Jack Heffernan John Heilprin Matt Heine Peter Helmetag Matt Hepp John Hewett Brian Hibbeln Daniel Hildreth George Hill Nikki Hodgson Floyd Hoffman David Horney Ulyana Horodyskyj Sharon Houghton Donald House Lawrence Huntington John Hutchinson Rob Hutchinson Mike Immerwahr Harlan Irvine Mark Jobman Steve Johnson Scott Johnston Charlton Jordan Kristy Kaufman Katie Kemble Henry Kerr William Kilpatrick Henry Kingsley Debra Kirk Kristopher Klein Jessica Knowles Adam Koberna David Kotch Carol Kotchek Al Koury Nicholas Koutrelakos Adam Kravetz Sarah Lana Will Lana Susan Lancelotta Carl Landegger Christopher Lang Tom Lannamann James Lawson Steve Lazny Arthur Leissa Marnie Levine Rodney Ley Alan Lisbon Tim Loew Nicole Lowry Dana Lucas Eric Lundgren Dougald MacDonald Garrett Madison Carolyn Maloney Tim Maly Lisa Manhart Bruce Marshall Wallace Martindale Kelly Mathews
Edwards Matthews Kati Mayfield Andrew McDermott Karen McDivitt Jennifer McDonald Wayne Mcilwraith Jim McKenzie Russ McKinley Rick Medrick Titoune Meunier John Miller Alison Miyasaki Marty Molitoris Michael Moniz David Morton Nathan Nelson Erika Nelson-Wong Matt Ochs Brian Oestrike Rhonda Ogrady Irving Oppenheim Martina Paradiso Scottie Pate Dale Peery David Peterson Christopher Petrini Larry Pope Luzmila Portocarrero Matt Powell Kemp Prugh Greg Pursell Jerry Radinoff James Ratliff Matthew Reich Keith Reis David Reitz Jan Reynolds Mona Reynolds Cory Richards Martha Roberts Matthew Roberts Rafael Robles David Roeske Darren Rogers Gaelin Rosenwaks Rebecca Rosenzweig Frederick Ross Laura Ross John Rossi Andrew Rubin Burton Ryan Richard Ryan Jenna Sampson Bucky Schafer Bryan Schillig Michael Schlenker Janet Schlindwein Raymond Schrag Fred Schwarzenbach Roy Schwitters Frederick Selby Seung Mo Shin Tony Shouse Mark Shunamon Jim Small Herbert Smith Stephen Smith Allan Snyder Jake St. Pierre Kara Stinson Erik Stoermer Patrick Stratton Rini Sugianto Rick Sylvester Josh Symes John Taylor John Tedeschi David Tetley Josh Theobald Michael Thern Doug Thompson Charles Tint Melissa Truelove
Richard Tucker Mark Tuller Richard Tyler Geoff Unger Greg Van Inwegen Justin Varga Kasandra VerBrugghen Anunta Virapongse Robert Wadja Roger Walker Pete Ward Joseph Whittington Matthew Whooley Barry Williams Wayne Wilson Joe Witte Ian Wolfe Loren Wood Joseph Yannuzzi Skip Yowell
$100-$199
Tim Amos James Anholm Christopher Anthony Alan Arnette Stephen Arnon Janet B Wilkinson Kenneth Bacco David Baker Robert Baribeau Michael Barker Sarah Barron Hugh Behling Missy Bell Manfred Berretz John Berry Brent Bishop Kurt Blair Shawn Blakeslee Chris Blatter David Boersma Steve Boes Bill Bohn Tricia Boomhower Michael Bredehoeft Karla Brieant Paul Briggs Winslow Briggs George Bristol Michael Broderick Andrew Brooks Trudi Broschat Jared Brown Michael Brown Lynn Buchanan Bruce Buhr Sherman Bull Tina Bullitt Gary Butcher Olivier Buu Alton Byers Richard Carey Tim Casey Benjamin Chamberlain Hugh Charvat Han Chen Eric Christu Cecily Clark John Cobb Jeremy Collins Robert Contreras Emilie Cortes Edward Cox Jordy Cox Ellen Dagenhart Brian Dannemann Lawrence Dauelsberg Justinian Davis Shannon Davis Glen Dawson Anthony De Vincenzo
Jeffrey Deikis E. John DelMonte Walter Dembitsky Michael Dimitri Joe Dominguez John Donlou Daniel Drage Fred Dunham Thomas Easterling Ben Edwards Gayle Ehret John Ellsworth Jim Erickson Amie Eubanks Hugh Evans Phoebe Everson Job Faber Erik Fabricius-Olsen Seth Fahey Morris Firebaugh Chas Fisher Mark Fletcher Nicholas Flores Craig Fournier Kenneth Frankel Diane French Jack Gallagher Ryland Gardner Roberta Garrison David George Stuart Gillespie Michael Gilliland Steve Gipe Frederick Glover Amy Godfrey Peter Gold Frederick Golomb Eric Gottlieb Richard Gottlieb Keith Gover Larry Graham Matthew Gray Robert Graziano Gordon Green Donald Gregory Claude Grelling Kurt Grimm Kremena Gross Barbara Gurtler Matthew Hale Cynthia Hamilton Anika Hammond Hillary Harding Roger Harris Daniel Hartman Douglas Hartman Victoria Hausch Giles Healey Donall Healy Bryan Heifner Matthew Heimermann Lee Helzer Edward Henderson Stephen Hendrick Herbert Hensley Nathan Hoag Allan Hoch John Hodder Michelle Hoffman Robert Hogan Joshua Hohner Kenny House Erin Hughes Gerald Hunt David Hutchinson Andrew Huttner Arno Ilgner Darron Jacobs Andres Jalakas Bridger Johnson James Johnson Lyman Johnson Roy Johnson
Ty Johnson Christopher Kantarjiev Alan Kaplan Diane Kearns Elizabeth Kehaya Erika Kempf Thomas Kempner Brian King Jim Kirwan Stephen Knapp John Kozlosky Martin Krsak Alex Kutches Jeff Land David Landman Morton Lane Ellen Lapham Linda Lawson David Lee Ruth Lefcoe Charles Lenhoff Lisa Lenhoff Cheryl Levine Karla Lipp Lisa Lorenzin Sheryl Love Jack Macpherson Reid Malinbaum Patricia Martin Brian Marts John Marts James Mathis Steven Matous Denise Matthews Dena Maxwell Peter McCarthy W. McClelland Kelli McMahan Patrick Meezan Carrie Miesel Bud Miller Nicholas Miller Geoff Mitchell Gary Moe Jeffrey Morey Candace Morgan David Morrison Sally Moser James Moss Eric Nelson Jared Nelson Jeannine Nelson Rodney Nelson Parker Newby Samuel Nies Chris Noble Mark Novak Andy Oden Albert Ogonowski Daniel Osborne Alison Osius Al Ossinger John Owen Bob Palais Breton Parkhill Bruce Paton Gail Pavlich Bill Pierson Benjamin Pope Robert Porter Melissa Prager Sarah Radecker Fred Rainguet Alexander Read Doug Redosh Dorothea Reilly Drummond Rennie Emily Reno Kim Reynolds Justin Rich Jodi Richard Brandon Riza Arnold Robson
Richard Rollins Billy Roos Elmo Rosario Kimberly Ross John Rupley John Rutter Allen Sanderson Samuel Santoro Rod Sawyer Barbara Schaefer Stephen Schauer Andreas Schmidt Brian Schultz Friedel Schunk David See John Seebohm Matt Shaw Robin Shaw Tim Shea Bob Siegrist Donna Simmons Philip Simonet Jack Simpson Jim Sincox Craig Slaughter George Smeal Andriy Smertin Carl Smith Timothy Smith Jonathan Smoot James Soukup Allen Steck Peter Stock Scott Strong Richard Sturm Wei-Li Sun Rowland Tabor Daniel Taylor Daniel Tear Robert Teitelbaum Mary Theis Bruce Theriault Ann Thomas Alexander Thomson Aniceta Tigtig Mary Tompkins Shane Toohey Joel Torretti Thanhvan Tran Nganha Tran Le Claudio Traslavina Gary Treml Marie Tripp Jolene Unsoeld Mark Ursino William Van De Graaff Royce Van Evera Colby VanDenburg Edward Vervoort Victor Vescovo Tom Vinson Derek Waggoner Brock Wagstaff Michael Walenta Luke Walker George Wallerstein Zachary Wasserman Peter Webb Tiffany Wen John Werning Zac West Roger Wiegand Graham Williams David Wilson James Yates Lynn Yehle David Zeps Graham Zimmerman
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 57
PARTNERS The American Alpine Club is committed to supporting and inspiring
American Alpine Journal, and events like the International Climbers’ Meet,
everyone who loves climbing. The work we do has the endorsement,
all of which keep the spirit of climbing thriving. Our Media Partners—
in the form of financial and in-kind support, from a multitude of industry
magazines, websites, photographers, artists—provide essential in-kind
leaders. The unrestricted money we raise each year from our corporate
support to improve and spread the AAC’s message. Thank you for
partners is essential to the core operations of the AAC: national and
supporting those who support us.
international advocacy and conservation work, publications like the
MEDIA PARTNERS
Adventure Journal
Climbing Zine
Film Festival Flix
Jeff Deikis
NEice.com
Alex Manelis
Cascadeclimbers.com
Google, Inc.
Jimmy Chin
Peaks Foundation
Andrew Burr
Clay Wadman
Huckberry
Joe Stock
Sharp End Publishing
Blake McCord
Climberism Magazine
Jason Gebauer
Luke Allen Humphrey
SNEWS
Boston Mountain Press
College Outside
Jeremy Collins
Menno Boermans
Top of the World Books
Bear Cam Media
Cory Richards
Jesse Crock
Mike Libecki
Trailspace.com
California Climber Mag
Fixed Pin Publishing
Jamie Givens
Mountainweather.com
Wolverine Publishing
FEATURED CORPORATE PARTNER JESSE MATTNER—CAMP As a climber, alpinist, general mountain adventurer, and managing director for the 125-year-old
Italian
gear
manufacturer
CAMP, I find tremendous value in the American Alpine Club. Why? I think the name says it all. We are climbers who love the mountains. We share passions, experiences, and a lifestyle we are absolutely addicted to. And while climbing is an individual pursuit in so many ways, it is really when we come together that we start to understand where and how we can push our own limits.
58 | BE TA
CORPORATE PARTNERS SUMMIT $50,000
HIGH CAMP $25,000
BASECAMP $15,000
PATRON $10,000
LEADER $7,500
SUSTAINER $2,500
PARTNER $5,000
SUPPORTER $1,000
MEMBER $500 Alpine Ascents International • Boulder Mountain Institute • Bluewater Ropes • Devils Tower Lodging and Climbing DMM • Feathered Friends • Forty Below • Fox Mountain Guides • KNS Reps • Metolius • Mountain Khakis Mountain Tools • Nite Ize • Restop • Top of the World Books • Trango • Trailspace.com
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBER SHIP | 59
THE AAC BOARD OF DIRECTORS [HONORARY OFFICERS] Honorary President James P. McCarthy Honorary Treasurer Theodore (Sam) Streibert
[EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE] President Doug Walker Vice President Matt Culberson Treasurer Paul Gagner Secretary Clark Gerhardt Immediate Past President Mark Kroese
[DIRECTORS] Term Ending 2015 Karen Daubert Rebecca Schild
Term Ending 2017 Janet Wilkinson Phil Lakin Kit DesLauriers
Term Ending 2016 Deanne Buck Philip Duff Chuck Fleischman Todd Hoffman
Term ending 2018 Mia Axon Stacy Bare Brad Brooks Mark Butler Ken Ehrhart Chas Fisher John Heilprin Lauren Sigman
STAFF Phil Powers Chief Executive Officer
Jeff Deikis Western Regional Manager
Adam Peters Rocky Mountain/Central Regional Manager
Nat Matthews Chief Financial Officer/Director of Operations
Ben Edwards Development Coordinator
Erik Rieger Publications, Asst. Editor & Art Director
Keegan Young Regional Programs & Development Director
Eddie Espinosa Northwest Regional Manager
Remy Rodriguez Conservation & Volunteer Coordinator
Erik Lambert Information & Marketing Director
Shaun Gregg Hueco Rock Ranch Assistant Manager
Katie Sauter Library Manager & Museum Curator
Craig Hoffman IT Director
Lindsay Griffin Senior Editor, AAJ
Lauren Shockey Membership Manager
Dana Gerschel Library Director
Michelle Hoffman Online Store Manager
Devyn Studer Museum Manager
Philip Swiny Facilities Director
Vickie Hormuth Development Manager
INTERNS
Allison Bailey Digitization Librarian
Lisa Hummel Northeast/Southeast Regional Manager
Sterling Boin Finance / Accounting Intern
David Boersma Graphic Designer
Carol Kotchek Accountant
Catherine Cook Marketing Intern
Blake Bowling Senior Software Engineer
Dougald MacDonald Executive Editor
Charlie Landsman Policy and Advocacy Intern
Whitney Bradberry Content Manager
Brian Martin Hueco Rock Ranch Manager
Allie Levy Guidebook to Membership Intern
Debbie & Gary Bunten GTCR Management Team
Janet Miller Executive Assistant & Grants Manager
Kaitlin Sullivan Guidebook to Membership Intern
Paul Curran Gunks Campground Manager
Paul Nelson New River Gorge Campground Manager
Evialina Yakimovich Know the Ropes Intern
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AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP
EDITORIAL Editorial Director | ERIK LAMBERT Production Manager | WHITNEY BRADBERRY Editorial Intern | ALLIE LEVY Editorial Intern | KAITLIN SULLIVAN
CREATIVE Art Director | DAVID BOERSMA Art Contributor | SARAH UHL Art Contributor | WHITNEY BRADBERRY
The American Alpine Club 710 10th Street, Suite 100, Golden, CO 80401 Telephone: (303) 384-0110 • Website: americanalpineclub.org Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. Copyright ©2015 The American Alpine Club. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Photographs copyrighted by photographer unless otherwise noted.
a [Cover] Graham Zimmerman traverses Claw Peak, via the West Ridge
(5.6) as the sun sets behind Mt. Waddington, casting long shadows on the AAC member Forest Woodward [This Page] Luke Tiedemann Glacier below. Humphrey and Cecil Groetken exploring a seemingly bottomless crevasse on AAC member Luke Humphrey the Cowlitz Glacier, Mt. Rainier, WA.
b
b
WE SUPPORT AND PARTNER WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS
#AACGRAM
a
AAC member Aly Nicklas mentally prepares for another adventure with a campfire and bottle of whiskey, Castle AAC member Aly Nicklas Valley, UT.
b
b AAC member Hannah Dwyer
IN GUIDE WE TRUST
Brand of the Brave
I felt the intensity of the entire project peaking inside meâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the power of my community pushing me on. Without that support, I would have abandoned this long ago. TOMMY CALDWELL
Kevin Jorgeson belays as Tommy Caldwell starts the traverse of pitch 14 (5.14+), the hardest section of the Dawn Wall for them both. Jeff Johnson Š 2015 Patagonia, Inc.