Campaign for Climbers
Letter From The Chair I became interested in climbing while I was growing up in South Carolina in the 1950s and 1960s. My biggest challenge was that I really didn’t know anyone else who shared my interest. But in 1972, I moved to Seattle and immediately met people like Steve Swenson and Todd Bibler, and I found myself embedded in a climbing Yvon Chouinard
community. This community has played a key role in my climbing and my life in general.
Honorary Chair
In fact, my business career was based on bonds developed through climbing. I spent 30
Douglas Walker Campaign Chair
years working with friends, but I spent most of my time on my business with only the occasional time off for climbing. Now that I have closed that career, I spend more time climbing with an expanding community, and I feel compelled to give time and money to
Glenn Porzak Front Range Chair
Mark Richey Northeast Chair
Steve Swenson
enrich this community and help others. We all have different personal reasons for our interest in climbing, but most of us have gained much from our climbing community. The American Alpine Club is dedicated to
Northwest Chair
the mission of building and broadening the climbing community. We see a community
Jack Tackle
that is demographically much broader than what many of us experienced. We believe
Tetons Chair
that such a community will enhance our lives, make stronger individuals, improve our country, and protect our natural climbing areas. Please join me in supporting The Campaign for Climbers so that we can continue to build this rich community and preserve our history. Best regards,
Doug Walker Campaign Chair
Cover: Galen Rowell - Peter Croft at Dawn on Grand Traverse of Evolution Peaks, High Sierra, CA, USA
This page: Jeff Widen - Doug Walker on Belay
Established in 1902 by the nation’s leading climbers and conservationists, including Charles E. Fay and John Muir. The AAC evolved from a social club for elite adventurer located on the East Coast to a more than 8,000-Member strong, regionally-focused organization. We advocate for American climbers domestically and around the world; provide grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; host local and national climbing festivals and events; publish two of the world’s most sought-after climbing annuals; care for the world’s leading climbing library and country’s leading mountaineering museum; manage an ever growing lodging network for climbers; and, annually give $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants to inspire and support adventurers who travel the world. The AAC actively participates in domestic and international dialog about environmental policy, high altitude safety and medicine, innovation in alpine tools, clothing and survival technologies, sponsors expeditions, and investigates controversies in the world of exploration.
The AAC has become the organization for all climbers - alpinists, boulderers and every elevation in between. Meeting tomorrow’s challenges, the AAC is changing what we do. But our foundation will never change – we will always hold fast to our values of Fortitude, Partnership, Creativity and Independence, and Stewardship. We will continue to be that place of support and inspiration for the young and the old, for those who climb all the time, and those who get out just as much as they can. We will always be inspired by the achievements of Club Members who explored the unexplored and pushed the boundaries of what was possible - the men and women who built the tradition of excellence that inspires climbers today and is at the core of what the AAC is all about.
Robert Hyman - Jim Donini and Jack Tackle
Andrew Kaufman Collection, Courtesy of the AAC Library - 1958 Hidden Peak Expedition
As the nation’s oldest and most prominent climbing organization, we are compelled to regularly evaluate our position, our plan and our relevancy. We recently stepped forward and asked our Members and fellow climbers:
If you could build The American Alpine Club from the ground up today, what would America’s national climbing organization look like? We listened, we investigated and we went to work. With the path and goals set by our five-year Strategic Plan, we are putting into action the new ideas and improvements most important to the climbing community, including: Delivering a member benefit program with extraordinary value; Restructuring our programs to serve more locally; Regaining leadership position as a comprehensive climbing information resource; Employing grants to inspire climbers and conserve the places we climb; Providing important infrastructure at climbing destinations; and, Protecting and preserving our climbing legacy, history, and literature. This broad, proactive initiative is being implemented by our extensive network of volunteers, Club officials, Board members and our Membership at large. Sufficient financial resources are required to ensure effective change and secure our future. The comprehensive Campaign for Climbers goal in $5.7 million; funding the following key projects and programs critical to our future.
Andrew Burr - Christine Balaz and Zac Robinson exploring the boulders of Wadi Rum, Jordan
Members
Strategic Improvements that build our capacity to deliver better benefits and a more local feel
Members and non-Members alike have asked to experience the AAC on a more local level. Climbing is a community endeavor at its heart. Our climbing partners, nearby crags and favorite rock gyms are local, and they are what make each community unique. The AAC will deliver events, conservation action, and advocacy through empowered local chapters. The AAC’s national office is now a resource for advice, expertise, and financial support. We are also simultaneously improving the Membership benefit to attract and build interest in the AAC at the local level. Campaign funding for Members will be dedicated to the following initiatives: Build a regional IT infrastructure including section websites and local partner-finders. Enhance rescue services and insurance for Members Provide staff support, events and programs regionally Modernize the AAC website and user tools Investment: $500,000
Andrew Burr - Brittany Griffith
Menno Boermans – Heli in front of Matterhorn
Places
Campgrounds, Huts and Lodging
Climbers from around the world told us they value a great place to meet, congregate, and learn from one another. To further inspire, support, and care for the climbing community, it is essential to continue the construction and maintenance of our campgrounds, huts and lodging programs. This major Membership benefit can be cared for at the local level. Examples of new lodging projects (some are underway): The Gunks Campground, New York Front Range Hostel, Colorado New River Gorge Campground, West Virginia Hueco Rock Ranch, Texas Proposed program improvements: Provide Critical Improvements at the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch Implement a Modern Reservation System for all AAC Assets Provide a Maintenance Endowment for all Club lodging properties Investment: $1,500,000
Andrew Burr Burr - Sonnie Trotter, Iconoclast, 5.13a, Saddle Rocks, Joshua Tree, CA, USA
Robert Hyman - Grand Teton Climbers Ranch
Andrew Burr
Legacy Sustaining and Modernizing Legacy Assets The Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library
Our legacy, our dreams, knowledge and accomplishments, are also our future. The AAC is committed to preserving climbing’s history in our archives, world-renowned climbing library and online. We have the opportunity to safeguard these assets well into the future through a combination of capital improvements and endowments. Current and proposed projects: Digitization of maps, climbing topos, and photos Cataloging our Rare Collections Increasing the Library Endowment to sustain this important institution into the future Investment: $1,200,000
Andrew Burr - Jasmin Caton on Split Beaver, Squamish, BC, Canada
Beth Heller
Courtesy of The American Alpine Club Library -
Conservation
Building Our Capacity to Protect the Places We Climb
The remarkable places we climb define the very heart of the AAC, and protecting these natural treasures is something we have done since 1902. Early AAC leaders like John Muir, modern ones like Yvon Chouinard, and local climbing communities across the nation have stepped forward to protect iconic climbing areas. The AAC’s leadership in protecting access and continuing preservation is a substantive, physical way to ensure the future of climbing locally and globally. Campaign funding will support the AAC’s Cornerstone Conservation Grant Grants, a key conservation initiative. These grants fund essential infrastructure at climbing areas. Individuals or communities that see a need for local infrastructure can propose projects that will improve, conserve, and protect their climbing resources for years to come. This annual $25,000 grant supports projects such as: Fixed anchor improvement New trails Human waste management solutions Parking Signage Investment: $300,000
Andrew Burr - Peter Vintoniv in the Lone Peak Wilderness, Utah, USA
Ellen Lapham
Grants
Inspiring and Supporting Climbers
The AAC has long advanced the art, developed leaders, and solidified our legacy through support to climbers. The AAC has a heralded history of awarding climbing and conservation grants. They serve as jump-starts for aspiring climbers en route to new projects and careers. As a result, many of our grant recipients continue to protect, participate in, and preserve the climbing way of life. Through a combination of endowed and annually-funded grants, we will ensure that the Club continues this important tradition.
American Alpine Club Grants: Mountain Fellowship Grant Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Fund Nikwax Alpine Bellwether Grant Research Grants Copp-Dash Inspire Award McNeill-Nott Award Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure John L. Horn International Sport Climbing Grant Investment: $450,000 to grow the program.
  Andrew Burr - Erik Kelly on Dairyland, WI5, Painted Rocks National Lake Shore, Michigan, USA
Funding Allocations Category
Project
Amount
Members
Enhance Rescue Service and Insurance Regional Coordinators Annual Chapter Gathering & Regional Events Modernize Main Website
$150,000 $250,000 $50,000 $50,000
Places
New Lodging Projects Grand Teton Climbers Ranch Improvements GTCR Maintenance Endowment Modern Reservation System
$1,000,000 $100,000 $350,000 $50,000
Legacy
Digitize AAC Library maps, topos, photos Catalog Rare Collections Library Endowment
$100,000 $100,000 $1,000,000
Conservation
Cornerstone Grants
Grants
$450,000 Mountain Fellowship Grant Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Conservation Grant Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Fund Nikwax Alpine Bellwether Grant Research Grants Copp-Dash Inspire Award McNeill-Nott Award Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure John L. Horn International Sport Climbing Grant
Continuing Programs
AAC Library Grand Teton Climbers Ranch American Alpine Journal Accidents in North American Mountaineering Conservation Support Climbing Grants Industry Partners
$300,000
$1,420,000
Campaign Expenses
$330,000
Campaign Goal
$5,700,000
Giving Opportunities Gifts of $5,000 and greater will be acknowledged on the American Alpine Club website throughout the campaign.
Gifts of $25,000 or greater will be acknowledged in the 2013 and 2014 editions of the American Alpine Journal.
Gifts of $100,000 and greater will be acknowledged on a permanent plaque at The Henry S. Hall American Alpine Club Library, and the various AAC locations made possible by the Campaign for Climbers; possibly including: Front Range Hostel New River Gorge Campground Hueco Rock Ranch
Andrew Burr - Peter Vintoniv, City Slave, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, USA
American Alpine Club Board of Directors
Charlie Sassara, President • Mark Kroese, Vice President Doug Walker, Secretary • Paul Gagner, Treasurer Brad Brooks • Doug Colwell • Matt Culberson • Karen Daubert Ken Ehrhart • Clark Gerhardt • John Heilprin • Mary Hsue Jim Logan • George Lowe III • David Riggs • Rebecca Schild Cody Smith • Travis Spitzer