SLOVENIA; A TROUT AND GRAYLING PARADISE Trip Report by Alex Jardine, September 2014
In September I headed to Slovenia to find out what fishing secrets were hidden in this small nation tucked away in the heart of Europe. A mere two hour hop by plane sees you touch down just outside the capital of Ljubljana and you are ready to go. Throughout the 2014 summer Slovenia has had above average rainfall and I must admit I was a little apprehensive about the state of the rivers, but Rok, the head guide, waved it away with optimism that we would still find great fishing.
For the first part of the trip I was joined by ‘Team Toes’, Ian and Julian who were also on their first trip to Slovenia. Our excitement of what was to come kept building as we shuffled through Stansted and soared over Europe. We then interrogated our guide Rok with 101 questions for the whole of the 30 minute journey to Bled, our home for the next three days. Lake Bled and the town is a beautiful location, set at the foot of the Julian Alps and in the shadow of Slovenia’s largest mountain, Mt Triglav. The area is filled with character and history whilst offering all the modern luxuries, there are numerous accommodation options in the area from 5* hotels to multiple room apartments. As we did not arrive until late afternoon the fishing had to wait until tomorrow and we settled down to try the local food and drink.
Rok showed up at 8am to show us our first glimpse of the fishing on offer in Slovenia, first stop; The Radovna River. The river is part of the upper Sava system and, as I was to find with all the rivers I saw, is a thing of dreams. We pulled up to a working mill house and peered over into water so pure it was hard to see where the bank finished and the water began. There were fish everywhere, not the biggest due to water running so cold all year round but they were wild and hungry.
With haste, we pulled on waders, strung up rods and set-up with nymphing rigs. My ‘method-de-jour’ was to go European Nymphing; long and light weight rod with a long leader with indicator section of leader material. Ian and Julian has sensibly done with Rok’s recommendation of using an indicator to allow for longer drifts and clear bitedetection. Both methods prove extremely successful in the swift cold waters of the Radovna as feisty rainbows and browns were convinced by our offerings. Although not the largest fish they certainly fought above their weight and their colours along with their markings were spectacular. In need of a break to warm up our legs and refuel, we stopped for a hearty lunch at a local gostilna, these are little village cafés and bars are wonderful and each has its own unique character along with excellent local dishes. The food was partnered with Turkish coffee, a Slovenian favourite. Unable to handle the standard brown sludge served in an expresso cup we went for the slightly more consumer friendly sludge with water and milk in a mug. Warning; do not expect to sleep for a while!
As the day moved on, the warm sun began to filter through the alpine forest, the caffeine buzz resided as the fish began to rise to small upwing flies hatching off. A change to dries saw the first day perfectly rounded off with great evening action. We watched as countless fish ascended through the water to engulf our delicately presented imitations.
The next day we tried our hand on the larger Sava Bohinjka River, flowing from Lake Bohinj until its confluence with the Sava Dolinka River and the start of the Sava River. Again, the river was crystal clear and the almost emerald waters were cold, but the fish here were much larger with a majority of rainbows and a few grayling. All three of us set-up with an indicator and a heavy nymph below, although the odd fish was rising it was obvious that the larger fish were near the bottom. It was a much slower start to the day as a rainy mist hung over the valley, but as the sun began to burn through the fishing began to improve. After the smaller fish of the day before it was a great to hear screaming reels and experience aerial acrobatics as we all hooked into rainbows of 2 – 4 lbs. Julian even found himself attached to a steam train of a trout, estimated at 7 lbs, unfortunately the fight did not last long before the fish won! Through the day I was also able to locate several grayling, where, unlike our grayling in the UK most of these fish were sat as singles and usually mid-river. Even with the water being almost like glass these fish were like ghosts and you had to trust your instinct when you thought you had spotted one… sometimes it paid off and other times you just moved on quickly from the large stone you had been casting at! On the journey back to Bled, Rok stopped the car by a bridge and got us out to go and have a look in the pool below. With amazement we looked down as several monstrous fish sat hovering in the pool, these were Danube salmon (Hucho). The smallest ones were around 10 lbs and the largest were well above 30 lbs, I may have to return after 1st November to see what they are like on the fly! On our return to Bled we celebrated our catches with steins of Laško and a steak dinner. Tomorrow was to be our final day on the river in the Sava system.
Our guide, Luka, rounded us up at 8am for our half day on the river. As soon as the last wading boot was balanced in the car we were on our way to the Sava Dolinka River. Our destination was just below Moste hydroelectric dam, although technically a tailwater this stretch of river resembled more a mountain stream with large boulders, pockets and pools. Ian and Julian led the way, catching plenty of rainbows between ½ – 1 lb in the two main pools on our stretch. I ventured a little further up to explore a sweeping bend, although the water was once again crystal clear, the gorge like nature created a lot of shadow over the water I was covering making it hard to see what was lurking in the pool. I drifted my fly mid-river several times before throwing a cast slightly more into the shadow. Within seconds the indicator shot under. I struck and immediately felt weight unlike the smaller fish from earlier. Like a tarpon, the aerial display ensued. The fish really gave me the run around, with several ‘heart in mouth’ leaps before the relieving moment when the fish’s head slid over the net. A beautiful rainbow of 54 cm and 4 lbs. A wonderful fish to mark the end of my tour of the Sava River system. That afternoon I spent looking around the town of Bled. A beautiful settlement with a mix of original buildings that have stood for over 1,000 years to more modern shops and bars. Although, it is now very much a tourist town there is still an air of authenticity. It is a great location for those who want to enjoy the outdoor activities and local history as well as being close to good restaurants and hotels in the evening.
Dawn broke on a damp and misty morning over Lake Bled as I hurriedly packed up my final belongings, today I would be switching from the Sava Valley over to the famous Soča Valley. On a map, these valleys look extremely close, although there is one key obstacle in the way… The Julian Alps. Stretching high into the clouds, this obstacle presents a spectacular journey quite literally through the mountain. During World War I tunnels were created through the mountains as routes to run supplies to the Front line. Now these tunnels are used as transport railways, in particular a car train that runs from Bohinjska Bistrica to Most na Soči. The train takes approximately 30 minutes and takes you through spectacular alpine scenery, an experience not to be missed. Once we were off the train we crossed the Idricja River and headed to the Bača River. Like all the rivers I had seen so far in Slovenia, I was in awe of the clarity and blue hue of the water. Now we were in the Soča catchment two things were different; the mountains were bigger and more intimidating, and the rivers were home to the mysterious marble trout (Salmo marmoratus). During our journey to the river the sun had burnt through the misty start and the weather was warming up nicely. Keen to make the most of the good conditions, I strung up a 9 foot #3 with a 12 foot leader and a small parachute dryfly. Bostjan, my fishing partner for the day had a similar set up but went with a CDC dry. We found beautiful pools where the fish rose confidently to our small offerings, the difficulty however, was that the hooks and tippet on the size 18 & 20 dries were tested as rainbow trout of 2-3 lbs tore up and down. In the deeper, faster sections we resorted to nymphing methods with great success, landing both good rainbows and beautiful pewter coloured grayling. The marble trout remained elusive and mysterious, maybe a new day and new river was to be the key.
My base now was the sleepy and traditional town of Kobarid, situated on the middle reaches of the SoÄ?a and a perfect location to reach various fishing spots in the system. I enjoyed a good meal, cold beer and an early night, hoping that this would be key in my quest for the marble trout.
The next day I was met after an early breakfast by Luka and we were soon on the road, sun blazing down on us again. Our destination today was the River Tolminka, near the delightful town on Tolmin. Our first stop was a secret spot for Luka, a place where he regaled stories of large marble trout trying to eat fish that were already hooked. Interest and enthusiasm well and truly peaking I rushed a rod together with a nymphing set-up and hit the water. We started well, hooking and landing several good rainbows that we sightfished from a nice gravel run. Similar to targeting bonefish, the key was to look for the ghostly pattern change on the riverbed and hope that your eyes were not deceiving you! This was all well and good but to find a marble we were going to have to move away from open water and target gnarly sheltered areas. At the head of the pool was a huge overhanging piece of bedrock, the feature was bound to hold fish but the trick would be getting them out. The only vantage point was to position yourself on top of the rock and remain low and allow the nymph to drift under the overhang. Sure enough, within a couple of drifts a smallish rainbow showed itself and was quickly returned. As we put the fish back we both noticed a subtle olive shape deep in the water and still somewhat hidden from view. Luka indicated that he thought it was a marble so we switched to a heavier fly to get down. A few casts later and the fish showed a little interest, all it took was a slight movement of the rod tip and the take was induced. As soon as the fish felt tension it disappeared under the rock. With some careful uses of side-strain and heart-stopping patience we manoeuvred the fish from the snag-riddled overhang and into open water. Soon the prize slid over the net. Joy, relief and jubilation came over me. The fish may not have been the biggest but this was a marble trout, a beautiful and challenging adversary.
Now that we had landed both a marble trout and several rainbows it was time to target the grayling to complete a Tolminka Slam. We header up river to a beautiful open pool, shaded on the deeper edge by a row of trees, a perfect lie for our quarry. Soon enough, a couple of fish were rising in the shade, a quick change of leader and fly – now a size 16 CDC dun. We targeted the back fish first. First cast, it reared its head and snaffled the fly. The run took it straight downstream of us, not a grayling but a beautiful rainbow in excess of 3 lbs. The front fish was much harder to trick, maybe wary from the previous battle. With some changing of angles and persistence the second also reared its head and swallowed my offering. The fight, now, was much different. Not running but pulling deep. Could this be our grayling? Sure enough, as the shape moved into the bright light of the pool the long sail-like dorsal fin became visible. A wonderful golden olive grayling was soon resting in our net, a quick photo and our Grand Slam was complete, and before lunch! The afternoon brought us some technical and hugely rewarding dry fly sport for more grayling and rainbows. By the end of the day the strong runs and deep diving fights had earned us a cold beer and hearty meal. The next day was to be my final day on the water, and my introduction to the mighty SoÄ?a.
As an avid trout angler I had wanted to visit the SoÄ?a for many years. Overnight the weather had changed dramatically, the clouds had rolled into the valleys and rain was hammering down on the mountain sides. The rain had added a slight milky colour on the water, still clear but tainted. The misty clouds hung in the valley adding a new dimension to the landscape. Our location today was the middle reaches, the river here is braided. The river cuts its course through a huge riverbed, that is mainly dry, a flood plain for the snow run-off each year. This river suited me as an angler, it was challenging, infuriating yet ultimately rewarding. In the wet and misty morning it did not take us long to find pockets on fish. They were not, by any means, easy and required numerous fly changes. We found success on tungsten-beaded size 16 pheasant tails. The fish liked the small subtle nymphs but it was important to get the flies down to the fish as they seemed to not want to move a long way for food.
To my delight we managed a marble trout and several rainbows from our first stop, my mind was once again drifting off about finding a grayling to complete a second slam in two days. We hopped back in the car and moved to our second location. Here, we stopped by a bridge and in true angler fashion we had to take a look over the edge… I couldn’t believe my eyes. Mid-water there was a shadowy outline. A fish that made the full timber log by its side look like a twig. With excitement we clambered down the bank, changed our leader to 15 lbs and our fly to a bunnystreamer. However, within one cast, like a ghost the shadowy outline disappeared into its hiding hole. We estimated the fish at 17 lbs, one for another day perhaps…
We continued on with our nymphing setups and caught another small marble and several rainbows. Bostjan also caught a grayling. He then put me on the run and soon enough my line twitched, indicating a take, but over excitement got the better of me and the sharp strike resulted in a flash of silver and my grayling opportunity had gone! I may not have managed the Soča Slam but this river had truly captured my admiration. I had worked hard and been rewarded with marble trout and rainbows but the river was keen not to give away everything. I had been shown glimpses of why this river is revered in European fly fishing.
Slovenia is much more than just a fishing destination, it is a country steeped in history and beauty. On the morning of my flight Bostjan kindly drove me up the SoÄ?a valley, a beautifully carved series of mountains, gorges and side streams. The valley is filled with testaments to its history, from Mountain forts and WW1 burial sites. Our journey then went over the top of the Julian Alps, a climb high into the mountains and the clouds, this was a route built by the Russian prisoners of war. You descend down into the Sava valley on the other side, and soon I was returned to Ljubljana airport. As with any trip, it went far too quickly. The fishing had been rewarding and fantastic, the river and weather had been kind to me and the country had ultimately captured my fishing heart. I will be back, there is unfinished business with some SoÄ?a grayling and a monster marble trout.
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