3 minute read
Cycle the Far North Cycleway - one of the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trail's Heartland Rides
CAPE RĒINGA to HOKIANGA HARBOUR - 2 days, 161km
© AA Traveller 2021
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© AA Traveller 2021
Start this epic journey in Cape Rēinga, the northernmost point in New Zealand. Whether it’s the dramatic lofty position of the lighthouse, the haunting beauty of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean crashing into one, or the Māori belief that this is where spirits of the dead depart for Hawaiiki-A-Nui (the land of their ancestors), it’s very atmospheric.
From here, the road dips south for an hour before joining the famed Ninety Mile Beach: an official state highway that is actually 88km in length. There’s nothing quite as liberating as cycling at speed along flat golden sand, an ocean breeze licking your face.
Once you reach Ahipara, the route heads inland across the countrysideto Hokianga Harbour. Roads along this entire route are best suited for reasonably fit riders with bikingexperience, but the ferry between Kohukohu and Rāwene does provide 2km of respite. In Rāwene, where the trip concludes, duck into the Boatshed Café for good honest food.
© AA Traveller 2021
RIDING THE TRAIL
Te Paki Coastal Track
@ David Kirkland
The trail starts at Cape Rēinga lighthouse, built in 1941, where you will find interpretation panels and toilets but no other facilities. Rēinga is Māori for ‘underworld’ – Māori believe that the spirits of the dead depart for the underworld from Te Rerenga Wairua. From Cape Rēinga, this route follows SH 1 for around 16km before turning west at Te Paki and following Kauaeparaoa Stream (also called Te Paki Stream) to the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. The beach is your ‘highway’ for 80km through to Ahipara, which is also the first and only place beside the beach that has shops. It is a long journey along the beach, but at low tide the beach surface is hard, smooth and fast riding with a tailwind. The only soft sand occurs where streams flow across the beach. Note that the beach is best ridden at low tide. The locals will know the tide times, but you can also check them on the MetService website. It’s worth stopping to wash the salt and sand off your bike at Ahipara before heading out of town on Foreshore Rd then Roma Rd. Turn right at the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd T-intersection. At Herekino, turn left to continue following the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd. The village of Broadwood lies along this road about 35km from Ahipara. It has a general store. From Broadwood, it is 30km, including a 2km ferry trip, to Rāwene, via Broadwood then Kohukohu Rd. The ferry terminal to Rāwene is 4km south along the coast from Kohukohu. The ferry runs several times a day. It charges a minimal fee for the 15min trip across the Hokianga Harbour to Rāwene.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Cape Rēinga lighthouse is a lovely coastal walk that spies the conspicuous pōhutukawa tree from where Māori spirits bid their last farewell.
Cape Rēinga lighthouse
@ Adobe Stock
• Rāwene is New Zealand’s third oldest European township and home to historic Clendon House: the former dwelling of Captain James Reddy Clendon, ship owner, trader and witness to the Treaty of Waitangi.
• The 15-minute ferry from Kohukohu to Rāwene is short but scenic.
• Kohukohu is a charmingly preserved Victorian village and home to scores of craftspeople.
• Herekino Forest Track Climb forest stairs tangled in tree roots while looking for the giant kauri snail, some of which boast 6-8cm shells.
• Bodyboard down the enormous Te Paki sand dunes at the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach.
• The resin-like gum from kauri trees was highly sought in the 19th century for varnish. Relics from gum-digging days can be seen at Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve.
• Ahipara boasts some of the best surfing in the country, particularly at Shipwreck Bay.
• Ninety Mile Beach lends itself to 4WD off-roading, quad biking and horse trekking.
• Te Whare Whiri Toi art gallery has flax-woven art, Māori paintings and textiles, as well as summer workshops.
• Te Ahu in Kaitaia is home to the Museum @ Te Ahu, a modern and interactive space.
Te Paki Coastal Track © David Kirkland
