4 minute read

Cycle the Kauri Coast Cycleway

RĀWENE to DARGAVILLE - 1-2 days, 113km

© AA Traveller 2021

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© AA Traveller 2021

Start out in Rāwene, an historic town clutching to the coastline of Hokianga Harbour and then pedal inland to Nature’s great green kingdom: Waipōua Kauri Forest. Caretakers of New Zealand’s oldest if not mightiest residents, gigantic kauri trees tower over 50m above the forest floor. Home to both Tāne Mahuta, our largest kauri tree and Te Matua Ngāhere which is estimated to be almost 3000 years old, these elderly grandfathers enjoy a celebrity-like status. This ancient green world is also home to North Island kōkako and the shybrown kiwi.

The terrain soon switches to farmland and ventures past bucolic fields to Dargaville before meeting the mouth of Kaipara Harbour where it concludes.

This route comprises 90 percent sealed roads and 10 percent gravel roads with some steep inclines that are best suited to fit riders with experience. With a year-round mild climate, you can enjoy this adventure throughout the year but with rain a common occurrence in Waipōua Forest, pack your raincoat!

© AA Traveller 2021

RIDING THE TRAIL

The whole route between Rāwene and Dargaville is about 8–11hr riding time in all. An overnight stop is therefore suggested.You will inevitably want to get up close with the mighty kauri trees. Please note, however, that kauri dieback disease may mean you can’t access all kauri forest walks; please respect all signage, staying well clear of any areas off-limits.

Starting in Rāwene, this route heads out on Parnell Rd to the T-intersection with SH 12. Then turn right and cycle to Ōpononi and on to Ōmāpere. There is a sharp 110m climb out of the far side of Ōmāpere. Twelve kilometres on from Ōmāpere is the small settlement of Waimamaku, which has a café and Four Square grocery store.

Beyond Waimamaku, the road climbs into Waipōua Forest. A small descent leads to the car park and a takeaways caravan at the start of the 1min walk to New Zealand’s most famous tree, Tāne Mahuta. New Zealand’s largest living kauri and known as the ‘Lord of the Forest’, this imposing giant has a 13.77m girth, a trunk height of 17.68m and a total height of 51.5m. Please respect all signage in relation to this, and other, forest reserves. From Tāne Mahuta, the road is mostly downhill for 10km.

The touring route continues straight ahead on SH 12 and up a 5km climb through forest and across farmland. About 7km from the bridge, either continue to follow SH 12 or take the gravel road to the east, Katui Rd. The gravel option will be slower but has less traffic. If taking the gravel route: follow the road down to Donnellys Crossing, turn right onto Trounson Park Rd and cycle 8km to Trounson Kauri Park. Just after the kauri park, veer right and in 200m is DOC’s Trounson Kauri Park Camping area. Or turn off to Kauri Coast Top 10 Holiday Park, 100m along Opouteke Rd. Chris the owner is also a cyclist and can send you off on a loop from here to encompass the Maunganui Bluff. Night walks from the Holiday Park are a must, to see kiwi in their natural habitat. Continue along Trounson Park Rd to SH12. Turn left to continue towards Dargaville.

Two kilometres after passing Kaihū Tavern, turn left onto Ahikiwi Rd and take the following country roads to Dargaville. Alternatively stay on SH12 and turn right onto Ōmāmari following signs to Kai Iwi Lakes. Turn left onto Maropiu Rd, then right onto Maropiu Settlement Rd. Then 8km from Kaihū, turn left onto Waihue Rd, then 200m later, right onto Opanake Rd. Almost 13km down Opanake Rd, turn left onto Parore West Rd and soon after, right onto Waihue Rd to cruise into Dargaville on Hokianga Rd. Turn right onto Normanby St and on your left 20m along is Time To, a well-stocked bike shop and workshop. Phone 09 439-0100.

Dargaville has a Pump track at Selwyn Park and a small mountainbike park at Pōuto o Te Rangi/Harding Park, 2km from town. Follow the signs to the Dargaville Museum and the Vintage Machinery Club which have stunning views. For a small town, Dargaville boasts a lot of art and craft, a prime example being The Woodturners Kauri Studio, which showcases kauri carvings and gives access to a workshop to see how it’s done. And as this is New Zealand’s ‘Kūmara Capital’, it’s no surprise to find a museum dedicated to farm machinery here. Harding Park is home to vintage tractors, harvesters and logging equipment.

For amazing views of the area, it’s also worth taking the short, sharp walk to needle-like Tokatoka Peak.

Waipōua Forest

Footprints Waipōua Twilight Encounter – Witness the forest come nightfall on this four-hour tour departing at 6pm (5pm in winter). Cast in spellbinding shadow, visit the 3000-year-old Te Matua Ngāhere kauri tree while your guide explains the forest’s great significance to Māori beliefs.

Waipōua Forest: Te Matua Ngāhere

© Adobe Stock

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL

• Dargaville’s Kauri Museum and the Dargaville Museum recount stories of pioneering foresters. The Woodturners Kauri Gallery sells incredible kauri objects and is worth a visit.

• The impossibly blue water and platinum-white sand at Kai Iwi Lakes. This place is more Antigua than Aotearoa.

• The twin settlements of Ōmāpere and Ōpononi offer beach life and sand-dune surfing.

• Utter peace and quiet at Trounson Kauri Park, a mainland island and 586ha reserve with scores of kauri trees.

• Trundle along disused railway lines in a converted golf cart with Dargaville Rail Tours.

• Head to Baylys Beach for horse treks and beach strolls. You can also access the 101km fully drivable Ripiro Beach from here.

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