7 minute read
Cycle the Hauraki Rail Trail
KAIAUA to MATAMATA - 3-5 days
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Grab some binoculars because this ride commences (or culminates depending on your direction) along the Shorebird Coast, aptly named for its abundant birdlife that can exceed 10,000 in number. The route from Kaiaua to Thames presents Wetlands of International Significance, tranquil farmland, natural hot springs at Pūkorokoro Miranda and café stops in the villages of Waitakaruru, Pipiroa, Kopu and Thames.
Under the watchful eye of curious cows, Paeroa is one of many charming townships you’ll discover along the way, and noteworthy for its giant L&P bottle. This signature Kiwi drink is a national favourite. Soon to be yours.
The return trip to Waihi does add an additional six to eight hours to your schedule but is a major highlight with the 1100m tunnel complete with glowworms a huge draw card. Gold mines define this area, with Karangahake Gorge and Victoria Battery bringing history front of mind. Back on the original route, glide under the gaze of Mt Te Aroha (‘the Mountain of Love’) and past farms resonating with vocal goats and alpacas, making headway to Matamata and Hobbiton.
TOP TIP
The trail is achievable year-round and is wide, flat and smooth. There are a handful of gentle gradients and some short road sections.
RIDING THE TRAIL
KAIAUA TO THAMES, 53KM
Named ‘The Journey of Te Aho’, this section of trail follows in the footsteps of early Māori settler Te Aho. Starting from Kaiaua, it winds around the edge of the shallow Firth of Thames, over chenier shell banks and through wetlands of international significance. Visit the Pūkorokoro–Miranda Shorebird Centre where you can learn about the area’s precious birdlife before heading out to the hides to see them for yourself. Fanatical twitchers may wish to check ahead for the arrival and departure schedules of various migratory species. From Miranda Holiday Park, the trail skirts around the Firth, following stop-banks for much of the way. There are expansive views of coastal wetlands and verdant farmland, with the volcanic Coromandel Ranges a dramatic backdrop. Refreshments are available in the villages of Waitakaruru, Pipiroa and Kopu. After the Kopu Bridge, the trail turns northwards for a few kilometres to reach Thames, an atmospheric town with plenty of dining and accommodation options. As you approach the town centre, look out for various sculptures along the community’s art trail. The Coromandel Distillery Co in The Depot, Grahamstown is a definite must-visit while in Thames.
THAMES TO PAEROA, 34KM
This richly historic area was once only accessible via the two rivers, Waihou and Hikutaiā. The Māori people believed that the deep valleys cutting through the Coromandel Ranges were carved by the thrashing tail of a taniwha. This is also the place where bushmen, gumdiggers and gold miners sought their fortunes, routinely crossing over to the eastern side of the ranges on rugged bush tracks through forests of mighty kauri. It is amid this history that this section of trail begins, at first following the old railway line out of Thames town and onward through lush farmland with the impressive ranges a constant companion to the east. Matātoki’s Cheese Barn and the Convenient Cow Café at Hikutaiā are nicely spaced pit-stops. Near Paeroa, it’s also just a short detour to the Historical Maritime Park where you can catch a boat ride on the Waihou River with your bike. Paeroa, at the southern end of this section is ‘world famous in New Zealand’ for its giant L&P bottle – a homage to home-grown soda-pop. Its antique shops are also notable. There’s also accommodation and places to eat for riders wanting to overnight here.
PAEROA TO WAIHI, 24KM
The most popular section of the Hauraki Rail Trail follows the Ohinemuri River through the dramatic Karangahake Gorge, a deep canyon cut through the Kaimai Ranges. Highlights of the gorge include a cascading waterfall, photogenic gold-mining sites and the charmingly old-fashioned Victoria Battery museum, plus the freaky Windows Walkway that burrows through a shadowy side-gorge. The pièce de résistance is an amazing 1100m-long railway tunnel, wobbled through with the aid of a torch. Near the halfway point is cute Waikino Station where there’s a café for a breather. This is the terminus of the train that runs between Waikino and Waihi; it’s well worth timing your riding to coincide with its running times as it’s a pretty special experience. Otherwise, it’s another 8km of riding to Waihi. With plenty of accommodation and places to eat – as well as proximity to glorious beaches – Waihi is a great base for your Hauraki adventures. This ‘Heart of Gold’ town still has an operational mine that can be visited on tours, plus the wonderfully interactive museum known as the Gold Discovery Centre.
PAEROA TO TE AROHA, 23KM
Heading south, this leisurely section passes through pretty Waikato farmland dotted with dairy cows. Front and centre are the bushy Kaimai–Mamaku Ranges and their 952m-highpoint Mt Te Aroha (952m; ‘the mountain of love’), plus wide ranging views over the Hauraki Plains. This section of the trail ends in the small rural town of Te Aroha with historic mineral hot pools – a great way to soothe pedal weary muscles. Te Aroha also has a lovely town domain, and is home to some great cafés. If you’re after an adventure, check out the expert tour operator, Adventure Te Aroha who offer kayak and stand-up paddleboard tours on the Waihou River.
TE AROHA TO MATAMATA, 37KM
This new and gentle section of the trail passes through fertile plains and significant horse studs. It ends (or starts) in the vicinity of the Matamata i-SITE. The Hobbiton Movie Set is approximately a 30-minute drive from Matamata where visitors can get their Hobbit and The Lord Of The Rings fix (it’s well worth going for the gardens alone, never mind a refreshing pint at the Green Dragon Inn!) Along the way it passes various landmarks including the scenic Wairere Falls, Stanley Landing and the Firth Tower with two new great cafés along the way. If you’re looking for quirky accommodation in Matamata, then head to the House With No Nails. Enjoy the beautiful mountain views from this handcrafted timber frame home.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Visit Pūkorokoro Miranda Shorebird Centre for information on migratory shorebirds.
• Stay at Miranda Holiday Park and relax in their thermally heated fresh mineral pools.
• Kaiaua is the ideal laid-back coastal community to sit by the sea and chill out.
• Taste award-winning Gouda on the veranda at The Cheese Barn in Matātoki.
• Pose for a picture with the seven-metre L&P bottle in Paeroa.
• Venture along the old walkways and forgotten tunnels that make up Karangahake Gorge.
• Relax into the hot pools at Te Aroha.
• Te Aroha’s restored Edwardian Hot Springs Domain has mineral spas and swimming facilities. In addition, the 1898 Cadman Bathhouse houses a museum.
• Get off your bike and onto the Goldfields train for a ride between Waihi and Waikino Station.
• Mokena Geyser is the world’s only soda geyser and explodes every 40 minutes.
• The colourful rural town of Katikati is awash with murals, sculptures, mosaics and tapestries.
• Katikati Bird Gardens has lily ponds, secret paths and a café.
• Visit the historic Firth Tower Museum in Matamata and if you’ve arrived in a self-contained motor home or caravan, you’re entry fee entitles you to park overnight for free.
• A goblet of ale awaits your arrival at The Green Dragon™ Inn in Hobbiton near Matamata.
MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE
The Hauraki Rail Trail is flat and gentle so you might like to up the ante with some rugged mountain biking at Te Aroha Mountain Bike Tracks near Te Aroha. Offering a one-way loop of grade 3 tracks, there’s also the option for a more advanced, grade 5 experience. Best for those who consider themselves a medium or advanced rider, soak up the bush scenery complete with streams and waterfalls as you hurtle downhill.