8 minute read
Ride Tasman's Great Taste Trail
NELSON ROUND TRIP - 2-4 DAYS, 177KM
© AA Traveller 2021
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© AA Traveller 2021
A trail with many options, all 177km of it is dipped in art galleries and boutique shops, fruit stalls, cafés, craft beer and wineries. Absorb the rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery, with delightful forays into Tasman Bay towns. Those looking for short hops and day rides are just as welcome as those after a full-blown, four-day affair. As is common in New Zealand, looking seaward is steeped with reward: from Nelson, it’s not far to the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, a wide range of seabirds will enchant. Other highlights include the causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa. Popular for its picnic spots, pine forest and sandy beaches, a pleasant jaunt across the island leads to Ferry Landing. Pop your bike on the boat and enjoy a 200m hop to Māpua, where the cafés and shops are bountiful. Further along the route, the coastal pathway is licked with a salty breeze, while inland settlements such as Brightwater and Wakefield are pretty much paved with wine. For experiences that will arouse your internal fear detector, crossing the swing bridge over Waimea River, and later, spooky Spooners Tunnel will enthral.
Tasman’s Great Taste Trail © Virginia Woolf Photography
RIDING THE TRAIL
Nelson to Māpua, 35km
This section starts at Nelson i-SITE and heads in the direction of adjacent Richmond town via the railway reserve cycleway. After a gentle up-and-over, it exits the central city and follows a waterside pathway between Nelson’s major highway and light industrial area, and the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the trail nears Richmond it splits in two, with the right fork leading towards Māpua on a mix of quiet lanes and a stopbank track. It then crosses the Waimea River via a purpose-built suspension bridge. (At Richmond, the straight-ahead option leads to the town centre and further inland via the Wakefield section.) The trail then crosses a causeway to Rabbit Island/Moturoa, a popular recreation area. It’s a pleasant cruise across the island to reach the ferry landing, then it’s just a 200m boat hop to Māpua Wharf.
Māpua to Motueka, 26km
Having left Māpua via quiet streets, the trail rejoins the shore along Ruby Bay but soon leaves it again to head into rolling hill country. Most folks will find it a comfortable granny-gear climb to a highpoint where there are panoramic views across to the western ranges and big blue of Tasman Bay. There’s plenty of time to take it all in as the trail gradually descends via the aptly named Tasman View Rd. After a few turns left and right along more country roads you’ll arrive at Motueka.
Motueka to Kaiteriteri, 16km
This section starts with the salt-licked sights of Motueka’s seafront then crosses the impressive Motueka River. The trail then follows pretty country lanes to reach Riwaka where you should keep your eyes peeled for a pie shop, café, brewery and fruit stalls. Riwaka is the junction of the inland trail heading up the Motueka Valley towards Norris Gully. The trail continues through fruity country to meet a lovely stretch of coastal pathway, at first winding over bridges and boardwalk. A gentle climb reveals stupendous views right across Tasman Bay. An underpass provides safe access to Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park. Riders without much ‘mountain biking’ experience should still enjoy this gently rolling and sweeping route through to Kaiteriteri village. Riders are reminded to be careful as this is single trail with some blind corners and bikers travelling in both directions. Kaiteriteri Beach’s glorious golden sands teem with holidaymakers in summer. The waterfront café is a good spot to take it all in. Various Abel Tasman National Park adventures also start from here.
Richmond to Wakefield, 17km
This section heads off on an inland tangent, taking in the country settlements of Brightwater and Wakefield. If you are prepared to explore off the trail there are several wine tasting opportunities here. Rich in history and home to 2000 people, Wakefield is a pleasant place to rest a while or break your journey overnight. Leaving Richmond (bottom Queen St), the trail passes through vineyards to reach Ranzau Rd, then turns a couple of corners to meet Pugh Rd and eventually the Waimea River. An impressive suspension bridge takes you to the other side. Off the bridge, it’s a left turn towards Brightwater, a welcoming place to stop for refreshments before heading onwards. Charlotte Lane then leads riders out of Brightwater, through an underpass, on to Lord Rutherford and Higgins roads and into the heart of Wakefield village via Edward St.
Wakefield to Kohatu, 25km
Cross the bridge on Pigeon Valley Rd and turn left to follow the off-road trail beside the Wai-iti River to Hoult Valley Rd. The trail runs alongside the main road (for just over 1km) to Wai-iti domain, re-joining the Wai-iti River on picturesque off-road trail until it reaches Belgrove. Check out the Belgrove Railway Windmill (built 1897) as you pass through town. The trail shadows the road for a while then joins the old Nelson Railway route through pastoral countryside and past historic tobacco kilns until it reaches the seriously spectacular Spooners Tunnel. The railway line was in use up until 1955, when its closure was met by major protests. The 1400m-long Spooners Tunnel is now New Zealand’s longest decommissioned rail tunnel. It’s also the sixth-longest pedestrian and cycle tunnel in the world, and the longest in the southern hemisphere. Suffice to say, it’s pretty dark in there, so you’ll need to carry a torch if you want to survey the interior and avoid getting spooked, although we think a spot of spookiness is all part of its charm. A warm layer is also needed as it gets quite cold, particularly in the middle and obviously more so in winter. Another 7km takes you down to Kohatu Junction (passing the Norris Gully car park along the way). This is a good place for refreshments at the Flat Rock Café.
Kohatu to Tapawera, 8km
The newest section of trail (completed in October 2020) follows the historic railway alignment down the Motueka Valley, with views across hop plantations and farmland to Mt Arthur. Make sure you keep an eye out for remains of 150-year-old stone walls, culverts and bridges as you gradually descent to the village of Tapawera where there is a small railway museum, café and restaurant. Tapawera is also a good place to stay with several accommodation options including, a hotel, motel, cabins and campground.
Tapawera to Riwaka, 50km Tapawera marks the end of the purpose built trail, from here Tasman’s Great Taste Trail follows quiet roads down the Motueka Valley for 50km to Riwaka. Note that there is limited food and drink available along this section so make sure you stock up at the Four Square in Tapawera. Be prepared for a steep climb over Stanley Brook Saddle 6km north of Tapawera then a further 12km to reach the Woodstock Junction where you will turn left and cross the Motueka River before turning right onto West Bank Rd, and down the valley you go. Work is currently underway to bypass the Stanley Brook Saddle by crossing the Motueka River at Tapawera and taking a back road into the Baton Valley to connect with the West Bank Rd at Woodstock. A cycle bridge is under construction across the Baton River – check out the trail website (www.heartofbiking.org.nz) for updates. (You can also head back to Wakefield by turning right from Woodstock onto Dovedale Rd then Pigeon Valley Rd, a journey of 30km.) From the Woodstock Bridge, it’s 27km along the West Bank Rd to Brooklyn. The road is relatively narrow but has light traffic volumes. At Brooklyn, it’s a right turn onto Old Mill Rd, left onto Anderson Rd, straight across Umukuri Rd, on Swamp Rd, and then right into Factory Rd to reach the junction with SH 60 at Riwaka. The cycle trail’s ‘Kaiteriteri to Motueka’ section is across the road.
Abel Tasman National Park © Adobe Stock
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Catching the ferry to Māpua gives this trail a charming point of difference. There is just one ferry crossing every hour.
• The lovely little town of Motueka is surrounded by fruit orchards and hop gardens.
• Pick your own berries (seasonal) at Tasman Bay Berries in Richmond. Or head straight to the counter and order a real fruit ice cream from December to February.
• Take a free tour of Pic’s Peanut Butter World.
• Riding through Rabbit Island with ocean on one side and pine forest on the other is a treat.
• Tasman, Marlborough and Nelson wine is world-class and make up our largest wine growing area. There are scores of excellent vineyards.
• Spooners Tunnel is the longest rideable railway tunnel in the southern hemisphere. There are no lights but there are reflectors.
• Nelson’s cherry blossom trees bloom in September. This is also the month of the annual Cherry Blossom Festival to celebrate the city’s Japanese sister-city, Miyazu.
• Visit Nelson Classic Car Museum, a standout attraction with more than 150 mint condition vehicles. Afterwards, grab a bite at the café, the Little Engine eatery.
• Watching hand-blown glass art at Nelson’s flamedaisy studio and gallery is almost hypnotic.
• Abel Tasman National Park is on the doorstep, where blue water, golden sands and green flora all wait to seduce you.
