5 minute read
Cycle the West Coast Wilderness Trail
GREYMOUTH TO ROSS - 4-5 DAYS - 133KM
© AA Traveller 2021
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© AA Traveller 2021
There’s no better way to get up close to the West Coast’s lush rainforest, pristine rivers, tranquil lakes and rugged beaches, with the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps a truly sublime backdrop – especially in winter, a fabulous time to ride. Easy to reach and to ride, the spectacular multi-day trail retraces old packhorse tracks, tramlines, railways, water races and historic bridges, linked by flowing singletrack. Many natural wonders are revealed along the way, while small towns and heritage sites offer a chance to delve deep into the region’s fascinating history.
Divided up into four roughly equal sections, this trail runs between Greymouth (the West Coast’s ‘big smoke’) and the small old gold town of Ross. We describe it on the following page in that north-to-south direction, but note that it’s equally enjoyable ridden in either direction. With each leg taking around three to five hours, there’s plenty of time to check out attractions and linger in scenic spots along the way; factor in an extra day to dawdle and detour if your itinerary allows.
Unique points of interest include the twists and turns of an historic water race, a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise in the beautiful Mahinapua Scenic Reserve, a cup of Billy Tea and fireside chat at Trappers Rest and so much more. Accommodation, shuttles and luggage transfers make it easy to ride the whole trail, or experience it on a range of different day trips.
Lake Kaniere © West Coast Wilderness Trail
RIDING THE TRAIL
Greymouth to Kumara, 28km
A photo stop is obligatory at the flood wall official start/finish gate before heading off along the Grey River flood wall. The river-mouth breakwater is a dramatic spot to reflect on the perilous river mouth and shipwrecks, and enjoy the rugged coastline. From here the trail follows the coast south, tucked behind flax-lined sand dunes and beside tidal lagoons. A signposted detour at Paroa leads to Shantytown Heritage Park (6.5km return), a major West Coast attraction and a must-visit for the history buff. The trail crosses its first notable river, the Taramakau, then hops onto the historic Kumara Bush Tramway for a delightful wind through regenerating forest and farmland with some terrific views out over the river. This leg finishes at Kumara’s splendidly restored Theatre Royal Hotel, a fine place for a pub lunch or a memorable overnight stay.
Kumara to Milltown Valley, 40km
Smooth terrain with a gentle gradient makes easy work of the 317m climb to Kawhaka Pass, which starts by winding through Kumara’s back blocks up to Kapitea Reservoir. Carrying onward, the subsequent Loopline Reservoir features a stone-face dam hand-laid in 1883 by gold miners. A sweeping boardwalk leads to a predominantly bush-lined gravel road section before the trail picks up old water races, logging trams and pack tracks up the valley, passing man-made dams and weirs. The Southern Alps are well and truly in view as you reach Kawhaka Pass and begin the descent through virgin rainforest to reach a suspension bridge stretching across a stunning gorge. The home run continues through more native bush, before arriving at Milltown.
Milltown to Hokitika, 31km
It’s time for the largely effortless sweep down towards the Arahura River. Emerging from bush into farmland after a few kilometres, the views of the Arahura Valley are quite the reveal. Across the river, the trail follows Milltown Rd for the gentle climb over Pyramid Hill to Lake Kaniere. Heading onward to Hokitika, the historic Kaniere Water Race is a pretty and fun section of trail. It connects with Lake Kaniere Rd, a quiet byway leading to Hokitika. If the skies are clear late in the day, don’t miss an evening ride (or stroll) along the beachfront to Sunset Point.
Hokitika to Ross, 34km
An excellent option for beginners and families, this particularly flat section of trail starts by crossing Hokitika Bridge, with the Southern Alps in full view up front. A few kilometres in, a signpost indicates West Coast Scenic Waterways where a boat cruise or kayak trip on Mahināpua Creek can be factored in before continuing onward through impressive forest to meet the intriguing Mananui Tramline that cuts through bush and a historic pocket of exotic forest. Excellent information panels relay stories of Mahināpua’s rich past. From the end of the tramline, the trail follows a rural road to reach the West Coast Treetop Walkway where there’s a canopy tour and café. Beyond that, the trail soon reaches the main highway and follows it a short way to meet the historic Ross rail route. The old railway line is a long and straight haul, broken up with information panels and bridged creeks. It offers ever-changing views of wetlands and farmland backed by the mighty Southern Alps. The restored Totara Bridge (1908) is also a scenic highlight. From there it is a leisurely cruise into Ross, an old goldfields town with an information centre and small museum (where you can try your hand at gold-panning). Complete your ride with a photo in the photo frame south of the centre overlooking the lake.
West Coast Treetop Walk © West Coast Wilderness Trail
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Nature, anyone? Find scenic reserves, wetland, rainforest, pristine lakes, snow-dipped peaks, rivers, beaches and beautiful waterways, complete with swing bridges.
• Hokitika Gorge boasts water that is an astonishing electric blue. You won’t want to leave without crossing the swing bridge to admire dramatic gorge scenery. Located 33km from central Hokitika.
• Don’t miss the photo frame overlooking the lake behind the visitor centre at Ross.
• The Kaniere Water Race is crystal clear. Listen out for the noise it makes, which is a gentle gurgle.
• The Theatre Royal Hotel in Kumara is loved by many. The restaurant has been beautifully restored, and the brand-new standalone cottages are brimming with fetching antique furniture.
• Come nightfall, venture a step or two behind the Theatre Royal Hotel to spy glowworms.
• Stay at Scenic Waterways and hire their kayaks for a four to eight-hour sojourn on Lake Mahināpua. Alternatively, enjoy a sunset lake cruise aboard the Eco Adventurer.
• Arahura River is an important source of pounamu (greenstone) for the local Māori people. Pounamu, glass and other art studios abound.
Hokitika Gorge © West Coast Tourism
