6 minute read
Cycle the Hurunui Trail
KAIKŌURA to CHRISTCHURCH - 3-5 DAYS - 260KM
© AA Traveller 2021
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© AA Traveller 2021
Friends cycling with a view of the sea © Andrew Spencer
F resh country air, punctured permanently, yet somewhat pleasantly, by the rich smell of farmland, the Hurunui Trail provides a quieter, safer alternative to SH 1, through gorgeous countryside communities laced by large pastoral farms, tussock land, creeks, rivers, vineyards and hilltops crackled with remnants of snow.
Connecting Kaikōura to Canterbury, the trail can be ridden in either direction via a series of low traffic country roads. Cars are infrequent but trundling tractors must be expected. Cattle being moved may also slow your progress, but is there anything more delightfully rural than stopping to watch a farmer work their land?
The journey will see you crossing both the Kowhai and Waiau rivers, using a mix of seal and gravel roads over a mostly flat terrain, but with just enough segments of undulated track to allow for some fun slopes. Fling your legs up and re-enact childhood.
There is an opportunity just past the small village of Culverden to detour off the trail by 36km to Hanmer Springs. Cyclists feeling the aches of exertion will welcome the hot pools at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.
Back on the main track, solitude is an expected highlight; sometimes there will be nothing but you, the road and views as far as the eye can see, but keep a look out for ancient landforms chiselled into their new faces by the massive 2016 earthquake, the beautiful vineyards of the Waipara wine region and limestone outcrops along Pyramid Valley Rd.
Once in Christchurch, your ride expels its agricultural cloak, and the fizz, pop, whizz of a modern city takes centre stage.
St James Cycle Trail © Bevan Triebels
RIDING THE TRAIL
Kaikōura to Mt Lyford Village, 61km
The ride starts by crossing the Kōwhai River via a ford and on to SH 70 – also known as the Inland Kaikōura Rd. Entering rolling hill country, the route soon crosses from the Kaikōura District to the Hurunui, climbing several inclines and passing over the Conway River and the historic Doone Station and grave site. The landforms around here still show the effects of the massive November 2016 earthquake, with the road crossing faultlines and scars. From the high point at the Whalesback it is downhill to Mt Lyford Village where the lodge will be a welcome sight.
Mt Lyford Village to Waiau, 22km
From the village, it’s a downhill run to the farming town of Waiau, the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and ice creams.
Waiau to Culverden, 30km
After crossing the Waiau River, the route turns towards the Kaiwara Hills, with some rolling gravel roads before crossing the Amuri Basin to Culverden. Hanmer Springs is a 36km side trip up SH 7/7a. A popular visitor resort for its hot springs, cafés and mountain biking, it is also the gateway to the St James, Rainbow and Molesworth Muster trails.
Culverden to Hurunui Bridge, 26km
This largely flat, sealed section leaves Culverden in a westward direction to follow the edge of the Amuri Basin out to Balmoral Station. It then heads back to the Hurunui Bridge, on the south side of which is an historic hotel.
Hurunui Bridge to Waikari turn off, 20km
Another flat, sealed road section, this starts on SH 7 for 3km before heading off on quiet rural roads through Hawarden and on towards Waikari.
Waikari turn off to Amberley, 45km
The route turns to the west at Pyramid Valley Rd, famous for its limestone outcrops and winery. The route heads over the hill country of the Waipara Gorge, with 19.5km of gravel riding including several climbs. Care is required due to rural traffic, sheep, tractors, milk tankers among it. Having returned to the sealed road, it’s a picturesque descent to the vineyards of the Waipara wine region, and on to the busy rural town of Amberley. This ride ends here, although plans are underway to extend it through to Christchurch by the end of 2020. In the meantime, riders may continue via public transport or a road riding route of their own choice.
Amberley to Kaiapoi, 38km
After refuelling in Amberley (check out Little Vintage Espresso), head out of town on the gravel path beside the highway before branching inland on Grays Rd. Assuming the weather is fine, follow signs to a dry ford of Kowai Stream (after high levels of rain riders may have to take the wet-weather route). Either way, the route links into the Ashley gravel path, crosses the Ashley/Rahakuri River and then follows the signed bike path to reach the Waimakariri hub-town of Rangiora. Here, there’s a range of cafes, restaurants and supermarkets to choose from.Heading south from Rangiora township, look for the Passchendaele Memorial Path. Opened in 2021, this lovely shared path leads past farmland to Kaiapoi. Upon reaching the Kaiapoi River at the edge of town, the route crosses a small footbridge to Raven Quay and then heads to the centre of town.
Kaiapoi to Christchurch
Leaving the quiet river town of Kaiapoi on Peraki and Vickery Streets, look for the shared path beside Main North Road. At Tram Road, safely cross the mighty Waimakariri River via the new bridge path, and then follow the long, smooth shared path that goes all the way to Christchurch. On the edge of the city, the path turns into Rutland Reserve, and then heads down Rutland Street and other streets all the way to Colombo Street, which takes cyclists right into the centre of Ōtautahi Christchurch. This revitalised city is the South Island’s largest and is a wonderful place to explore on two wheels – navigate your way round with the Christchurch City Council’s cycling maps.
Cycling in Kaikōura © Andrew Spencer
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Get a taste of Hurunui’s backyard situated well away from the state highway and discover plenty of little townships frequented by few.
• Gorge on Kaikōura. Famed for its seafood, notably the plump crayfish, cute roadside food shacks such as Nins Bin ensure visitors are well fed. Kaikōura is also a haven for animal lovers, with various whale species, dolphins, albatross and fur seals all taking up residence in the area. Jump on a boat tour to get up close.
• Sample the wine varietals in the boutique wine region of Waipara.
• Terrace Edge is a delightful family owned vineyard in Waipara, tended purely by hand. As well as exceptional grapes, the vineyard features a 2000-strong grove of olive trees. Enjoy a tasting of eight premium wines, extra virgin olive oil and fresh table olives.
• Waiau was the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and indulgent ice creams.
• Cosy Mt Lyford Lodge offers food, drink and accommodation.
• Charming inside and out, the historic Hurunui Hotel has held its licence continuously since 1860 and has maintained its vintage good looks. Nip inside for home brews and good food.
• Frog Rock found in the middle of Weka Pass is a giant frog-shaped rock surprises – and delights – passing travellers.
• Spend some time exploring Amberley and the nearby charming towns in the Waimakariri District. Then pay a visit to bustling Christchurch.
Ashley Rakahuri Regional Park © Visit Waimakariri
