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10 TOP NORTHLAND WALKS

© AA Traveller 2021

1. RAINBOW FALLS WALK & KERIKERI RIVER TRACK

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Where is it? Start at Rainbow Falls Rd for the falls, or start at Kerikeri Basin Reserve if doing the full river track.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The Kerikeri River is a cool spot for walking and swimming. The very short walk to the falls with its three lookouts is the perfect spot to take a break and stretch your legs when driving long distances. But if time is on your side, opt for the longer river walk (7km return) which takes you from Rainbow Falls to the town basin. The bush is alive with birdsong, including tui and pīwakawaka (fantails), as they flit among the kauri and tōtara trees. Interpretation panels at the falls provide interesting information about the advent of hydroelectricity, an innovation that transformed the region from 1930. Historical remnants of the first station can still be seen today. Be sure to have your swimsuit handy if the weather is warm, as there are many pools for taking a dip; always exercise caution when swimming near waterfalls and be aware of the falls’ power, especially after rain.

Terrain: Easy walking along well-formed paths,much of it is stroller-friendly.

Good to know: This trail is part of Te Araroa, the walking path that goes from Cape Rēinga in the North Island to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island. No dogs, this is a kiwi area. 5-10min to Rainbow Falls from car park. 3hr; 7km return for full walk. Basic fitness, suitable for all ages. Easy walking.

2. BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL WALKWAY

Paihia waterfront © Fullers GreatSights

Where is it? Start in Paihia in the Bay of Islands, Northland. This trail is well-signposted with maps available from the information centres.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Set off from Paihia and head towards Ōpua. This leg of the journey takes you along the beach along a well-formed coastal path with views across to Russell. Pass several beaches including Sullivans and Te Haumi. From Te Haumi it’s largely paths through bush, as well as along an elegant boardwalk through mangroves. It takes about 2.5hr and includes some decent climbs so pack plenty of water. At Ōpua you’ll find shops and bathrooms. Then board the ferry to Ōkiato; they run every 10min. Enjoy the brief break before starting the second leg to Russell. From the ferry, walk uphill for about 10min before turning left onto Pipiroa Rd to walk down to the beach. This segment takes about 3.5hr with a mix of flat and steep segments, notably the steps up through native bush. High above Ōrongo Bay look out for the historic manganese mine site and make sure you have your wallet if you care to stop at the oyster farm. As you walk down to Russell, you may feel like an explorer who has chanced across the most charming historic village where numerous opportunities for refreshing yourself can be found. Stay a night in Russell or take the ferry back to Paihia, where your journey began.

Terrain: Coastal paths, paved sections, boardwalks and a few steps.

Good to Know: No dogs. Approximately 6hr; 16km. Reasonable fitness required. Undulating with a fair few steps. A full-day walking circuit, including ferry links, that goes from Paihia to Ōpua then Ōkiato to Russell, and includes beaches, boardwalks and birdlife.

Fish and chips in Russell © NorthlandNZ

3. CAPE BRETT TRACK

One of Northland’s most exhilarating walks, the trail winds and weaves along coastal paths before arriving at a Department of Conservation (DOC) hut, where you’ll find a most elegant 113-year-old lighthouse.

Cape Brett Track © Northland Tourism

Where is it? Set off from Rawhiti, Bay of Islands (4hr from Auckland, 40min from Russell) and walk 16km or for a shorter walk,take a water taxi from Russell to Deep Water Cove for a 6km hike.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Picturesque Cape Brett juts out into the Pacific Ocean at the eastern end of the Bay of Islands. With two ways to attack this walk, you can choose to do the eight- hour, 16km hard way from Oke Bay in Rawhiti or arrange for a water taxi to take you from Russell (or Paihia) and start at Deep Water Cove. This second option means the walk to the lighthouse will be a much more leisurely two-and-a half-hour walk. Whichever you choose, you will be serenaded by choirs of birds as you wander through regenerating native bush along spectacular undulating coastal paths. Occasionally you’ll be sheltered beneath mānuka canopies, or on exposed narrow trails, before arriving at the DOC hut.

Terrain: Undulating, sometimes steep, much of it in the canopy of regenerating bush.

Need to know: A permit, available from Russell Info Centre, is required to walk this track. Bookings essential if you wish to stay at the 23-bed DOC hut. No dogs. 8hr one way from Rawhiti to the lighthouse; 16km or 2.5hr from Deep Water Cove to the lighthouse; 6km. An A to B walk. Advanced tramping track. Water supplies at the Cape Brett Hut are slightly salty from sea spray. Bring enough drinking water for the walk out to and back from the hut.

4. HĀTEA LOOP WALKWAY

A pretty urban walk through the Whangārei Town Basin featuring a marina, restaurants, shops, galleries, bridges, parks and playgrounds. To give the walk its full name, the Hātea Loop is also known as Huarahi o Te Whai or the 'Pathway of Opportunity'.

Where is it? Whangārei Town Basin. This fullyaccessible loop circles the HāteaRiver, uniting the basin withWilliam Fraser Memorial Park.

TRACK OVERVIEW: This 4.2km loop is an excellent way to acquaint yourself with Whangārei. Look out for artworks created by local talents including the stone sculpture Waka and Wave at Hihiaua Point, a depiction of a Māori waka (canoe) piercing a towering wave. Reyburn House is Whangārei's oldest house, built in the 1870s; today it’s where you’ll find the Northland Society of Arts. There is also a very sweet playground, complete with a liberty swing for use by visitors in wheelchairs. Stop to read the interpretation panels as you go as all sorts of interesting facts are brought to life. Time your visit to witness the impressive bascule bridge open to admit boats with masts over 6.5m entry to the basin. Called Te Matau a Pohe, The Fish Hook of Pohe, this extraordinary feat of engineering provides an exciting element to the area while at the other end the Canopy Bridge resembles vast sails.

Terrain: Almost entirely paved so accessible for wheelchairs and strollers.

Need to Know: 1hr; 4.2km loop track. Basic fitness required. Easy walking. Dogs are welcome.

Why not take your time? Highlights along the track include the Whangārei Art Museum, home of the city's art collection; Reyburn House, the city's oldest house built in the 1870s; a fantastic children's playground and petanque court; the Claphams National Clock Museum; and the Hundertwasser Art Centre that includes the Wairau Māori Art Gallery.

© The Hundertwasser Art Centre, Whangārei

5. MT MANAIA TRACK

The bush-clad mountain dominates the landscape and is irresistible to hikers who appreciate a dramatic view.

Where is it? The track starts just above the car park next to the Mt Manaia Club on Whangārei Heads Rd above McLeod Bay, 28km east of Whangārei.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The track to Mt Manaia’s summit is a steady climb in the shade of regenerated native bush through groves of nīkau palms and kauri stands with glimpses of northern rātā hanging from pōhutukawa. The wide gravel path changes to wooden steps in the steepest parts and stops, occasionally, at lookouts on natural rocky outcrops. Thick native forest blankets the terrain, which rises to peaks and falls to deep valleys in mysterious folds punctuated with steep bluffs. Close to the 420m-high peak, the gradient gets steeper and views get more impressive. From the top, the vista takes in Whangārei Harbour, the Hen and Chicken Islands, Bream Bay and the Hauraki Gulf.

Terrain: Moderate fitness is needed,because of the steady climbing –but it’s a good track and worth the effort. The lookouts have no safety barriers, so stay well away from the drop-offs and supervise children.On your return, consider heading straight to McLeod Bay for a swim.

Need to Know: No dogs. 2hr return; 4km return, via same track. Moderate fitness required. Steady and steep climb.

6. WAIPŪ COASTAL WALKWAY

The beauty of this 5.3km looped walk is hinted at in the name – the coastal views come thick and fast and every new vista is a jaw dropper.

Where is it? The walk starts from Waipū Cove (or Ding Bay) just 45m from popular Waipū Beach which is 12.5km north of Mangawhai.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The ocean, albeit magnificent, doesn’t steal the show on its own, on this coastal pathway. From gaps in the bluff revealing small sheltered beaches to stacks of pancake rocks and dramatic steep drops, the entire landscape dazzles. The route is stamped with plenty of picnic spots and places to fish straight off the rocks, so pack more than just your water bottle. You won’t need the agility of a mountain goat, but it is rated as moderate due to exposed tree roots and small amount of rock clambering required. Entry and exit points are found at both Waipū Cove and Ding Bay with the latter half of the loop following the main road back to the beach.

Terrain: Jandals might be tempting when the walk is just inches from the sand, but ill-advised. The route follows a craggy coastal bluff with exposed cliff edges, whipped by the wind and an undulating, often lofty landscape. Wear sturdy shoes and take extra care of children.

Need to Know: 1-2hr; 5.3km loop track. Moderate fitness required. Steep in parts. No dogs.

7. ARAI TE URU HERITAGE WALK

Arai Te Uru Heritage Walk © Adobe Stock

Arai Te Uru is the name bestowed on the south head of Hokianga Harbour. Within its namesake reserve, several vantage points spill over the Tasman Sea drinking up views of the harbour and colossal sand dunes.

Where is it? In Hokianga Heads above Hokianga Harbour, 56km west of Kaikohe and 1.7km west of Ōparara.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Just up the hill from Ōmāpere is Arai Te Uru Recreational Reserve and a series of scenic walks. From the car park there is a decent 30-minute ramble to stretch your legs and invigorate the lungs, following the top of the cliffs and past the remnants of an old signal station before looping back to the start. With far-reaching views across Hokianga Harbour, the station was built to navigate ships through the treacherous passage but closed in 1951 due to dwindling seafarers. The views today remain spectacular. To extend the walk, there is an optional side-track down to Martin's Bay where large rock pools and tidal archways enthral.

Terrain: Suitable for children and families pushing buggies (however it’s not surfaced so expect a bumpy ride).There are a few sheer drops in places to be mindful of.

Need to Know: 30min; 0.5km return. Basic fitness required. Easy walking.

8. MANGAWHAI CLIFFS WALKWAY

Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway © Adobe Stock

A visit to the Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway provides you with breathtaking coastal views that extend from Bream Head in the north down to the Tāwharanui Peninsula in the south.The Coromandel Peninsula and Great Barrier Island/Aoteacan often be seen on the horizon.

Where is it? Mangawhai is located on the Twin Coast Discovery Highway, 20 minutes from Waipū or 30 minutes from Wellsford. Access to the track is from the Kaipara District Council car park near the Mangawhai Surf Lifesaving Club at the end of Wintle St.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The track starts along the beach, then climbs quite steeply for about 20 minutes to a lookout point. It then winds past ancient pōhutukawa teetering on the sheer slopes before descending to the stony beach below. From here you can walk back along the beach, but only at low tide. Keep to the marked track as it crosses private property. From the top the view of the beaches below is amazing, and you can sometimes spot large schools of fish being chased by passing whales or schools of sharks. Once you descend to the beach the reward of a cooling dip is a must before the final journey through the archway formed by a unique rock formation leads you on the home stretch along the sandy beach.

Terrain: Moderate fitness is required as this is a steep climb with many steps but persevere and you’ll be rewarded with stunning views when you reach the top.

Need to Know: 2-3hr return; 9km via same track. Moderate fitness required. Steep climb; many steps. No dogs. The track linking Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway and Cove Rd is closed from 1 Sept–31 October for lambing and calving. The coastal section of the track is unformed, rough and rocky. Walk the return loop (8km) along the beach only at low tide – check tide timetables before you go at metservice.com

9. TOKATOKA SCENIC RESERVE TRACK

Thrusting up beside the serpentine Wairoa River, this short steep walk provides walkers with impressive views.

Where is it? Tokatoka Rd, 17km south of Dargaville, Northland.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Stride to the top of Mt Tokatoka for phenomenal 360-degree views of the river, the countryside, Kaipara Harbour and the distant ranges. Follow the short, steep path up what was once a volcanic plug, the aftermath of an ancient eruption. You’ll feel on top of the world when you summit. Possibly a challenge for those who aren’t comfortable with heights, but well worth the effort. The mountain holds special significance to the people of Ngāti Whātua who believe Tokatoka is one of several mountains that made their way to Aotearoa from Hawaiki. One of the group, Manaia, made its way to the Whangārei Heads while another mountain was drowned in the Waiora River. Fearful of meeting a similar fate, Tokatoka and neighbouring Maungaraho decided to err on the side of caution and move no further. Back down at river level you’ll find the Tokatoka Tavern, where food and cool beverages can be enjoyed.

Terrain: Steep, well-formed tracks,slippery after rain.

Need to Know: No dogs, unless you have a DOC permit. 40min return; 700m. Medium fitness required. Steep walk.

10. KAI IWI LAKES COASTAL TRACK

Kai Iwi Lakes © Northland Tourism

As much as it’s near-impossible to peel yourself away from Kai Iwi Lakes, walk across farmland to Ripiro Beach and discover many surprising rewards.

Where is it? Located 32 minutes north from Dargaville on the west coast of Northland.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Start out at Kai Iwi Lakes Rd and follow the exposed coastal track across expansive farmland. Having jumped a few stiles and greeted various livestock en route, you’ll come across the Ripiro Beach lookout. New Zealand’s longest drivable beach is not the famed Ninety Mile Beach, but instead, remote Ripiro Beach, and at 106km, it is 18km longer than its Ninety Mile rival. The coastal track leads all the way to this near-empty stretch of sand and languid ambles before golden dunes await. From here, continue north along Ripiro Beach to Aranga Beach Rd (a further 1hr 30min) and step on to the windswept sands of Aranga Beach. Alternatively, you can return via the track you’ve just come and jump back into the water at Kai Iwi Lakes.

Northland’s western coastline is home to Kai Iwi Lakes, a trio of freshwater lakes fringed by ice-white beaches. The largest lake boasts tropical-coloured water, two campgrounds and sand more akin to a Caribbean island. On the east coast, you’ll also find the equally impressive Tāne Moana. As the region’s largest remaining kauri tree, this chap’s over 1000 years old with an 11m circumference. A 40-minute walk will bring you to the foot of his almighty trunk. Carry on for another 90 minutes to reach the sparkling beach at Matapōuri Bay.

Terrain: Easy walking along expansive farmland to Ripiro Beach.

Need to Know: 30min; 2km one way with the option to continue for a further 1hr 30min; 8.2km one way. Basic fitness required. Easy walking to Ripiro Beach, moderately harder should you continue to Aranga Beach. No dogs.

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