6 minute read
ROAD TRIP 2 HEAD OFF TO BAY OF ISLANDS
Whangārei to Paihia
Whangārei to Hikurangi via SH1 - 23min, 23.7km
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SIDE TRIP Whangārei to Tutukākā loop towards the coast to Tutukākā, then Matapōuri, then to the main route at Hikurangi -1hr 13min, 62.7km
Hikurangi to Kawakawa Inland via Hukerenui and Kawiti Glow Worm Caves in Waiomio - 30min, 38.6km
SIDE TRIP Kawakawa to Russell via Waikare Rd, Russell Forest and Waikare Inlet 53min, 40.5km or by ferry via Ōpua - 47min, 21.7km
Kawakawa to Paihia via the port of Ōpua - 20min, 16.8km
© AA Traveller 2021
Whether you’re staying in Whangārei for a few days or passing through on your way further north, a detour from the city centre out to the east coast is essential. Be warned:spectacular views and beaches designed for walking, swimming and relaxed picnics may slow your progress. Once you leave the coast and swing inland for the trip up to the Bay of Islands, the landscape changes. Farmland, forests and a scattering of small towns dot the route, along with intriguing historic sites.
Stop in Kawakawa for a stroll among the shops and a visit to the famous Hundertwasser-inspired public toilets before taking the last 16km to Paihia, where the scenery changes again – and dramatically. Welcome to the Bay of Islands.
Buying seafood, Bay of Islands
© Northland Tourism
HIGHLIGHTS
WHANGĀREI FALLS Just off SH 1 and only 5km from the city centre of Whangārei is this cascading gem that has a reputation for being the most photographed waterfall in New Zealand.
ADVENTURE FOREST, GLENBERVIE Drive another couple of minutes up the road and you’ll find 12 tree-top challenge courses packed with thrills, fun and action.
KAWITI GLOW WORM CAVES Just before Kawakawa, follow the signposts to take a guided tour of the glowworm and limestone caves.
HUNDERTWASSER TOILET BLOCK Discover why these WCs are world famous in Kawakawa and pop next door to admire the bright and fantastical Hundertwasser Memorial Park which depicts the artist’s life and work.
Hundertwasser Public Toilets, Kawakawa
© Destination Northland
ŌPUA Keen sailors can charter a yacht, take a cruise or simply watch boats arriving from all over Aotearoa.
BAY OF ISLANDS Settle your eyes on the Bay of Islands’ signature turquoise water and obscenely blue sky. Home to 144 islands and a wealth of wildlife including dolphins and seals. Kayak between islands, jump aboard a boat cruise or try the R. Tucker Thompson, a traditional gaff-rigged schooner.
WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS AND MUSEUM OF WAITANGI Just 2km from Paihia, discover the Treaty House, where the original manuscript was drawn up; an enormous 35m-long ceremonial war canoe; two museums; informative tours; cultural performances at the marae and a whole lot more.
TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL – POU HERENGA TAI Enjoy a journey through some of New Zealand’s earliest settlements on this two-day ride, connecting Ōpua in the Bay of Islands to Hōreke in Hokianga.
HARURU FALLS Just 5km from Paihia, these falls are small, wide and powerful. Park up and walk down in two minutes or hire a kayak from Paihia. A 90-minute walk from the Treaty Grounds also leads here.
RUSSELL One of the country’s oldest European settlements, Russell is the former capital of New Zealand and has a somewhat colourful history. For good reason, it was once known as the Hell Hole of the North.
WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS
• Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi Modern and interactive, detailing key moments of Aotearoa’s history.
• Te Rau Aroha Museum State of-the-art museum detailing Māori commitment to the armed forces via poignant displays and exhibits.
• The Carving Studio Pop in for a chat with one of the seriously talented master carvers.
Performers, Waitangi Treaty Grounds
© Waitangi Treaty Grounds Te Pito Whenua
SIDE TRIP TUTUKĀKĀ COAST
FROM WHANGĀREI - 29KM, 30MIN Take a circular route along the beautiful Tutukākā Coast from Whangārei or Hikurangi and feel the lure of turquoise ocean.
Highlights include:
MATAPŌURI BAY An irresistible expanse of white sand greets you here. Dip your toes in, or join the locals in a flying leap off the bridge at high tide.
WHALE BAY Come here for seclusion because this bay is only accessible on foot from a coast track at the northern end of Matapōuri Bay.
SANDY BAY This is one of the best surf spots on Northland’s east coast and the final beach before the road turns inland, back to join SH1 at Hikurangi.
WHANANAKI has many more magnificent beaches and is well worth a detour. While here, explore WHANANAKI COASTAL WALKWAY – take a walk with spectacular ocean views and admire the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere.
WARO RESERVE This curious boulder-strewn place has a limestone quarry swimming hole.
Charter a fishing boat at TUTUKĀKĀ MARINA.
Take a boat cruise 23km out to the world-renowned marine reserve, the POOR KNIGHTS ISLANDS, to snorkel, dive or kayak with the experts. These islands are an international icon; that they are accessible,thanks to dive charter operators, is a genuine gift to visitors. This definitely rates as a must-do!
Under water at Poor Knights Islands
© Destination Northland
PAIHIA
HOLE IN THE ROCK CRUISE Sail by the Cape Brett Lighthouse and adjacent show stealer: Hole in the Rock. Your captain will weave the vessel through this narrow grotto.
ISLAND HOPPING The Bay of Islands has 144 motu, the largest being Urupukapuka Island, accessible via ferry from Paihia or Russell. Take the water taxi to Roberton Island/ Motuarohia Island for two unspoilt lagoons or Moturua Island for beautiful bays.
SULLIVANS BEACH A local secret, scramble across the rocks at the southern end of Paihia Beach at low tide to reach this sheltered spot.
FERRY TO RUSSELL Hop on the 15-minute passenger ferry between Paihia Wharf and Russell.
SIDE TRIP RUSSELL
THE LONGER WAY to Russell is from Kawakawa through the Russell Forest and around the Waikare Inlet. It’s a picturesque but narrow, winding route.
ALTERNATIVELY drive from Kawakawa to Ōpua (11.5km) and take the seven-minute Ōkiato car ferry ride across the harbour. From there, it’s a 10-minute drive to Russell.
A ROLLICKING GOOD TIME Russell is romantic and pretty but its beauty hides a salacious past. Handsome heritage buildings such as The Duke of Marlborough Hotel speak nothing of their former guise as grog shops and brothels; the nation’s oldest church is scarred with gun shot holes and the thumbprints of convicts can still be found in the bricks.
THE WHARF The passenger ferry from Paihia is based here so it’s always buzzing with activity, as is the beachfront,where sitting in the sunshine watching swimmers and boaties makes for an idyllic afternoon. Take a swim at the safe little beach, among the moored boats.
POMPALLIER HOUSE is the only surviving pioneer printer and tannery in New Zealand. It’s a fascinating, well-presented building with a fantastic French coffee shop next door.
DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH HOTEL Dine by the water at this historic residence.
FLAGSTAFF HILL LOOP WALK Navigate native bush to the top of the hill to seethe famous flagstaff that was chopped down four times by Māori in opposition to British rule. Soak up the 360-degree views and stroll over to the centennial sundial.
RUSSELL MINIBUS TOUR Join this whistle-stop, one-hour tour from The Wharf for a condensed version of Russell’s eye-watering history.
Paroa Bay Winery, near Russell
© DWB
