7 minute read
ROAD TRIP: A journey through Eastland
Ōpotiki to Ruatōria via SH 35 3hr 4min, 207km
Ruatōria to Gisborne via SH 35 2hr 3min, 139km
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SIDE TRIP: Gisborne to Rere Falls via Wharekōpae Rd 43min, 46.3km
Gisborne to Wairoa via SH 2 1hr 22min, 97.8km
SIDE TRIP: Wairoa to Lake Waikaremoana via SH 38 1hr 5min, 58km
SIDE TRIP: Wairoa to Mahia Peninsula via SH 2 and Mahia East Coast 1hr 13min, 71.5km
Travelling around Eastland on the Pacific Coast Highway (SH 35), you’ll pass through some of New Zealand’s most isolated communities, all of them steeped in Māori culture.
Most of the way the winding road hugs the coastline; along its rugged lengths you’ll find many treasures including historic churches and marae, picturesque lighthouses, wharves, spectacular headlands and unspoilt, isolated, beaches which you’ll often have to yourself.
The township of Ruatōria is where your Eastland journey draws you south towards the region’s main city of Gisborne. Beyond, the road turns inland as you head due south towards the Mahia Peninsula then around the point to the riverside town of Wairoa, Hawke’s Bay’s northernmost town. Taking the road all the way to Napier will complete a varied and memorable adventure.
HIGHLIGHTS
MT HIKURANGI
This sacred mountain is the first place in the world to see the sunrise. Take a tour to view the nine impressive carvings at the summit that tell the legends of Maui.
TE KAHA
This pretty place has glorious bays and beaches perfect for swimming. There is very good fishing to be had here, too.
EAST CAPE LIGHTHOUSE,TE ARAROA
An elegant lighthouse at the easternmost point of New Zealand, at the end of a 22km-long unsealed road. The lighthouse sits 154m above sea level; to reach it, climb 700 steps. The views are sensational. Not to be missed.
ST MARY’S CHURCH,TIKITIKI
This beautiful Māori church is home to some of New Zealand’s finest examples of woven tukutuku panels and wooden carvings. Built in the 1920s, and initiated by Ngāti Porou leader Sir Āpirana Ngata, it is a tribute to the tribe’s soldiers who died during World War I.Entry by gold coin donation.
HICKS BAY
Originally called Wharekahika, this remote bay was later named for Zachary Hickes, part of Captain James Cook’s 1769 expedition. The beach is steeped in Māori history and there are remains of several pā. Visit the old wharf at nearby Onepoto Bay. Stunning part of the world.
TOP WALKS
1. ANAURA BAY WALKWAY On this relatively easy 4.5km loop track, you’ll encounter native bush, grassy paddocks, coastal forest and valleys of pine. Start at the entrance at the northern end of the recreation reserve; you’ll soon reach a ridge with panoramic views of the coast to the south, Anaura Bay and Motuoroi Island.
2. OKITU BUSH SCENIC RESERVE WALK, GISBORNE Pack a picnic and head to this scenic reserve on the outskirts of Gisborne for a half-hour loop through reserve land. Stop at the lookout for stunning views of Wainui Beach and surrounding countryside. You’ll see a wide variety of native trees and plants and bird species including kererū, tūī, bellbirds, fantails and grey warblers.
3. GRAY’S BUSH SCENIC RESERVE, GISBORNE Visit a small but significant example of tall kahikatea trees aged between 400-500 years old. You’ll also see pukatea, tawa, kohekohe and mataī as well as kawakawa and nīkau. Watch for bellbirds, tūī, kererū, kaka, shining cuckoos and skylarks. There are two tracks to choose from: 15-20 minutes and 40-60 minutes.
TOLAGA BAY
Walk to Cook’s Cove and see for yourself where Captain Cook stopped when he circumnavigated New Zealand. The 5.8km return journey across farmland starts at a small paddock at the southern end of TOLAGA BAY and takes about 2.5 hours through native bush and open grassland. With information panels, viewing platforms, a hole-in-the-wall perfect for photos and a memorial to Cook, the cove doubles as a lovely swimming spot to cool off after your walk. Note the track closes for lambing between July and October.
GISBORNE
New Zealand’s most easterly city, the town’s slogan is ‘First to see the light’ a nod to seeing the sun rise ahead of everyone else in the world. Māori culture and heritage are the anchors of this attractive and vibrant city, which is also known as Tairāwhiti – ‘the coast upon which the sun shines across the water’.
A walk up Titirangi(Kaitī) Hill is perfect for getting your bearings. This highpoint is famous for being where the first Māori explorers settled while down at the base, at Kaitī Beach, this is where Captain James Cook came ashore when he first made land fallin 1769. With spectacular views from the top of the hill, admire the region from four lookouts. The city is known for its excellent wine, notably chardonnay and there are numerous boutique wineries to explore. Excellent cider and beer is also crafted here. Gisborne is also the ideal base for surfing, fishing, cycling, waka ama,stargazing, even shark cage diving.
100% NATURAL
VISIT THE STINGRAYS AT DIVE TATAPOURI Snorkel and swim with stingrays, available at Dive Tatapouri between mid-January until the end of March. Basic snorkelling ability is required forages 13-plus. Wetsuits, snorkels and masks are provided. Or do the walking/wading tour to the reef where you can hand feed these ocean giants.
MOTU FALLS WALK At Whinray ScenicReserve, 80 minutes northwest of Gisborne at Motu, is a 6.3km walk each way through native forest, over a swing bridge and along an old coach road to Motu Falls. Alternatively, view them from the car park and picnic area.
GISBORNE RAILBIKE ADVENTURE A side-by side tandem cycle experience that takes place on an unused section of the Gisborne-to-Napier railway line, with bridges and birds, and some excellent pastoral scenery. There are also e-bikes available for those who prefer to take it easy when they’re on holiday.
SIDE TRIP to LAKE WAIKAREMOANA
visit to this part of Te Urewera National Forest will linger long in your memory– you can’t help but get swept up in its spiritual power, and feel as though you’ve been transported back in time to a New Zealand of another era. This area is incredibly important to Ngāi Tūhoe people who have occupied Te Urewera for hundreds of years and you’ll feel their connection with every waterway, mountain and forest. The lake’s Great Walk, best done over four days, starts near Wairoa and passes through prehistoric rainforest and wetlands, via waterfalls and rivers and through valleys of mist. Along the way are several campsites and five Department of Conservation huts, all of which must be booked in advance. At journey’s end, arrange transport back to Wairoa, either by shuttle bus or water taxi.
SIDE TRIP to RERE FALLS
Northwest of Gisborne on Wharekōpae Rd, you’ll find the Rere Falls with a picnic area and swimming hole on the Wharekōpae River. The falls themselves are just a minute from the car park. Proceed a little further up the road and you’ll reach the turn off for Rere Rock Slide, a 60m natural waterslide. Wear a wetsuit or use a boogie board or inner tube to skid down its slippery length. And watch the locals first to ensure you find the safest way to slide. A side trip to Eastwoodhill Arboretum is highly recommended when driving this route.
MAHIA PENINSULA
Looking for a place to stay? Find a huge range of accommodation options, including discounts for AA Members, at travel.aa.co.nz
Makorori Coastal Lookout, Gisborne © Strike Photography