6 minute read
ROAD TRIP - Paihia to Kaitaia
Paihia to Kerikeri via SH 11 and 10 21min, 23.4km
Kerikeri to Mangōnui via SH 10 through Kaeo 48min, 60.1km
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Mangōnui to Cape Rēinga via SH 10 and then onto SH 1 at Awanui 1hr 48min, 132km
Cape Rēinga to Kaitāia via SH 1 through Te Kao, Houhora Heads and Pukenui 1hr 30min, 110km
SIDE TRIP - Mātauri Bay loop via Mātauri Bay Rd to Mātauri Bay, return to main route via Wainui Rd & Whangaroa Rd 1hr 9min, 69.2km
SIDE TRIP - To Whatuwhiwhi Peninsula turn off SH 10 before Lake Ohia to the beautiful peninsula 16min, 17.5km
Going all the way to the top is something quite special and features on many bucket lists. This road trip takes in so many spectacular, impressive sights there’s a danger that the climax of Cape Rēinga will be diluted; in reality it is one of several highlights of this adventure up the skinny bit of New Zealand.
The top of the north is a mix of welcoming seaside villages and service towns, swathes of green pasture, stretches of white-sand beach, remote peninsulas and deep water harbours. Plus it’s warm. The climate up north is noticeably different– with warmer temperatures all year round and, usually, dry summers colouring the landscape to gold. Chances are the sky will be blue; the result equals brilliant photo opportunities.
HIGHLIGHTS
KERIKERI Famously fresh produce, history, craft and pretty tropical gardens attract visitors to sunny Kerikeri and once there, they discover a lot more. As one of the first towns to be settled by Europeans, it has plenty of rich stories to tell. Shady shopping streets, lush parks and bush walking tracks add to the sense of well-being and relaxation. The climate in this town is ideal for growing citrus, kiwifruit, avocados, macadamia nuts and tamarillos. Artisan cheeses, chocolates, liqueurs and wines are also made (and consumed!) here.
DOUBTLESS BAY Not singular, but plural. You’re spoilt for choice with beach after beach of caramel sand. Coopers Beach is ideal for safe swimming, exploring rock pools and sunrise walks.
COCA COLA LAKE (ROTOPOKAKA LAKE) So called for its rustybrown, Coke-coloured water. An 18-minute coastal drive from Doubtless Bay presents a unique lake tinged by peat and tannins.
KAITĀIA is the gateway to the Far North; if you don’t want to drive to Cape Rēinga along the beach, this is where to join a tour to the top. While here, visit the regional museum at Te Ahu to learn about gumdigging and Māori history.
CAPE RĒINGA is the most accessible northernmost part of Aotearoa. Each year thousands make the pilgrimage to take photographs by the solarpowered lighthouse and the multi-directional sign.
MANGŌNUI This little quaint village has a scattering of boutique shops and the legendary fish and chip shop by the water’s edge.
HOUHORA on the narrow isthmus leading to Cape Rēinga, great swim and surf beaches are on tap here. Head to Houhora Harbour’s famous fishing grounds and check out the historic hotel.
RARAWA BEACH Travel 15 minutes north of Houhora for sugary white sand that squeaks between your toes.
GREAT EXHIBITION BAY A little effort is required to reach the gorgeous snow-white sand. Hike from Rarawa Beach, quad bike, join a horse trek, book a 4WD tour or kayak from Parengarenga Harbour.
MT BLEDISLOE LOOKOUT Enjoy endless impressive views across the region. Grab your camera and head inland, just a few kilometres from Paihia.
TOP WALKS
TE PAKI COASTAL TRACK The three to four-day track follows coastline from Spirits Bay, past Cape Rēinga and finishes at Te Paki Stream. 3-4 days, 48km one way.
TAPOTUPOTU BAY TO CAPE RĒINGA Starting at Tapotupotu Bay, this track offers wide views before descending into Sandy Bay and on to the Cape Rēinga Lighthouse. It’s popular for families camping at Tapotupotu. 5km, 3hr.
LAKE NGATU TRACK Located in Lake Ngatu Recreational Reserve, this is an easy walk around Lake Ngatu, a freshwater dune lake popular with water sports enthusiasts, day visitors and locals. 1hr.
MANGŌNUI HERITAGE TRAIL So much to see on this walk where you’ll get a glimpse of the great wealth of Māori and European history in the area. Steep in parts but the amazing views make the effort worth your while. 1hr 30min, 3km.
HISTORIC KERIKERI
Established in 1819, the Kerikeri Mission Station was one of the first places where Māori and Europeans lived together. It’s also home to both the Stone Store and Kemp House. The latter is New Zealand’s oldest surviving building and the 1832 Stone Store still sells goods reminiscent of those sold and bought in the 19th century.
SIDE TRIP - MĀTAURI BAY
Mātauri Bay is a sheltered, clear-water haven for divers and swimmers. There are plenty of accommodation options, including camping right by the beach.
From Kerikeri take SH 10 north west; after a 10-minute drive turn right into Mātauri Bay Rd. Here you’ll find white-sand beaches and clean, clear water. It offers great surfing, diving, swimming and snorkelling and is the final resting place for the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior which has become a living reef, attracting marine life and recreational divers. Hike up to the headland at the northern end of the beach to see the Rainbow Warrior memorial.
SIDE TRIP - WHATUWHIWHI
On Karikari Peninsula, at the northern end of Tokerau Beach is Whatuwhiwhi, a delightful seaside area with several uncrowded beaches nearby.
• It’s a family-friendly part of the world, with safe swimming and shady beaches perfect for picnicking.
• Legendary fishing and easy boat launching are also part of the mix.
• Base yourself here for easy access to Doubtless Bay, Mangōnui, Coopers Beach and Taipa. Whatuwhiwhi is just two hours from Whangārei, an hour from Kerikeri and within organised tour distance to Cape Rēinga – yet while you’re here, you could be a million miles away, such is the feeling of peace and isolation.