5 minute read

WEEKEND ROAD TRIP: Auckland to North Coromandel

Togs on, toes out! If you’re after a barefoot adventure with more ocean dips than fish and chips (just!) make this your next road trip.

• WHEN TO GO: Late spring/summer.

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• WHAT TO TAKE: Tent, camping gear, togs and sun cream.

• WHY? New Chum Beach: Voted in the top 20 in the world by seashore connoisseurs.

FRIDAY

HIT THE ROAD

On the road by 3pm is ideal if you want to avoid the menace that is Auckland traffic on a Friday.

Approximately 90 minutes into your journey and just 10 minutes north of Thames, stop at Te Puru Store and Takeaway for fish and chips. Grab something deliciously deep fried. The store kisses the ocean front with various sandy spots to sling a picnic rug. Keep your eyes on high alert for basking seals and shorebirds.

New Chum Beach, Coromandel © Getty Images

From Te Puru to Whangapoua, the road is as winding as it is spectacular. There are various lookout points as the road wiggles its way up and over the big hill before dropping into Whangapoua.

Framed by a row of towering deciduous trees on a large paddock, Whangapoua Holiday Park is the closest campsite to New Chum Beach. There are tent sites as well as small cabins and shared facilities.

SATURDAY

MORNING: HAPPINESS COMES IN WAVES

Drive for all of five minutes to reach Whangapoua Beach. If the waves are up, surfers dot the water. For those on dry land, Whangapoua Store sells coffee and hot buttered scones.

Opposite Whangapoua Store there is a great playground often featuring chimp-like children swinging from its apparatus.

LATE MORNING: NEW CHUM BEACH

New Chum Beach is the next bay along from Whangapoua Beach, reached only by foot or boat; its remoteness is a large part of the allure. Set out to the northernmost tip of Whangapoua Beach, cross the estuary and head towards a rocky outcrop occupied by ruminating shags. Navigate the crags until you see a track snaking into the bush.

Follow its lead all the way to the beach. This little slice of untouched New Zealand is pure paradise and your retinas will rattle with excitement.

Roughly five minutes before reaching New Chum Beach, keep an eye out for a yellow ‘DANGER’ sign, just right of the track. Most folk ignore all warnings and take the detour. It’s steep, rocky and requires hoisting yourself off various branches, but survive that and the views from the top are spectacular.

LUNCHTIME: DEATH BY ICE CREAM

The drive from Whangapoua Beach to Luke's Kitchen in Kūaotunu is less than 20 minutes but you won’t find yourself there alone; the woodfired pizzas are lauded by all and the chilled vibes are as moreish as the margaritas.

Leave room for dessert and stroll a few doors down to The Kūaotunu Store, renowned for ice creams bigger than your head. The Killer Cone is five flavours and 10 scoops of brain-freezing pleasure, all for an equally unbelievable $9.

AFTERNOON: ONCE MORE INTO THE BEACH

Kūaotunu is connected to the glorious Ōtama Beach by a six minute stretch of coastal road. One look at this enticing mix of white sand and teal sea and your togs will be on before the car stops.

Beached out? Travel 25 minutes to The Lost Spring in Whitianga. This adultorientated spa complex offers a luxury mix of hot pools, spa treatments and poolside cocktails.

Relaxing in a pool, Lost Spring, Whitianga © Lost Spring

EVENING: STARLIGHT, STAR BRIGHT

Once the sun dips, return to Kūaotunu, stopping just shy of the village for a Stargazers Astronomy Tour (look out for the roadside billboard). The Milky Way is fully dissected by your passionate host and keen astrologist. Don’t forget to wrap up warm and douse yourself in insect repellent. From here it’s just 20 minutes back to Whangapoua Holiday Park.

Phone ahead (8pm in summer) to check the tour is happening. Those temperamental clouds can be obstructive.

SUNDAY

MORNING: COROMANDEL TOWN

Say goodbye to Whangapoua Holiday Park. A 20-minute drive west will deposit you in Coromandel Town for a lazy morning of coffee, brunch and window shopping.

MID-MORNING: RUN FREE LIKE A WATERFALL

If the coffee didn’t quite supercharge your fuel tank, it’s time for an invigorating plunge. Cue Waiau Falls, located on a 10-minute detour off the main highway from Coromandel Town, along the famous 309 Road.

The waterfall sits at the end of a threeminute bush walk and is the kind of waterfall all other waterfalls dream to be. Jump straight in…. and then straight out. She might be pretty, but boy she’s fresh.

ABOVE: Coromandel © Adobe Stock

LUNCHTIME: SHUCK IT REAL GOOD

With hunger creeping in, get back on the coastal road and head south to the Coromandel Oyster Company, just a 10-minute drive from Waiau Falls. Served from a rustic roadside shack, this seafood deli serves fresh ocean tucker. Bite into a steak and oyster burger and load your chilly bin with mussel chowder for tonight’s dinner.

Grab a dozen just shucked oysters for $20 and have change left over for a drink. You won’t find fresher – or cheaper!

EARLY AFTERNOON: TIME FOR ANOTHER DIP

Hoffman’s Pool is a popular spot for its deep-water lagoon which daring folk throw themselves into. A full 1.25 hours south of the Coromandel Oyster Company, it’s loved by locals but remains relatively unknown, existing in relative solitude at the end of a gravel road. An easy 250-metre walk leads to a pebble embankment with surrounding rock ledges and an irresistible bowl of water.

Oysters © Getty Images

DRY OFF & GARDEN ON

Onwards to Ngātea Watergardens, 35 minutes from Hoffman’s Pool and 20 minutes south of Thames. You’re just $12 away from a floral wonderland etched with Kiwi humour.

Between the stampeding ducks that chase all those with snacks across the lawn (grab a bag of feed at reception if you’re game), to punny garden signs, placards requesting the birdlife to behave and unexpected castles, it’s an instant mood improver. Just watch out for the large black swan with more swagger than social skills; he’d like your entire bag of bird food and only a fool would refuse.

Don’t miss the on-site Canny Museum. Unassuming from the outside, step within to find an emporium of over 11,000 commercial drink cans spanning decades and collected from across the globe.

Ngātea Water Gardens © Rodger Blake

LATE AFTERNOON: HOMEWARD BOUND

Alas, all good weekends must come to an end. Auckland is 98km from Ngātea Water Gardens and, assuming the motorway’s not too clogged up, you’ll be home in less than 1.5 hours.

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