Le Monde September 13, 2019 “New York Fashion Week : The Californian Nursey” Academy of Art University, as Californian nursery under the leadership of Simon Ungless, showcased a true pool of new talent at New York Fashion Week. h ps://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/ar cle/2019/09/13/newyork-fashion-week-la-pepiniere californienne_5509928_4497319.html
New York Fashion Week: the Californian Nursery The next generation of American fashion could come from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. A true pool of new talents presented at New York Fashion Week By Carine Bizet September 13, 2019
Crea on of Yi Pan, Academy of Art University, New York, September 8th Randy Brooke / Ge y Images for Academy of Art University
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Among the fashion schools, Central Saint Mar ns in London, the Parsons School in New York, the school of the Chambre Syndicale in Paris, are named spontaneously. Only a few ini ates in the eld would think to add the Academy of Art University of San Francisco, whose ten graduates showcased their collec ons on Sunday,
September 8 in New York. Its fashion curriculum has however largely spanned in American brand studios (from Gap to Ralph Lauren) or interna onal (Burberry, Louis Vui on, Missoni, etc.) Its campus has the latest technology but its most e ec ve "tool" is its director, the Englishman Simon Ungless. A true legend that has been working in the shadows for almost thirty years. A graduate of Central Saint Mar ns in 1992, a roommate of a certain Lee Alexander McQueen, he accompanied the English designer in the development of his brand, working in par cular on tex le innova ons and prints that remained in the history of fashion. The war photos of Don McCullin transformed into mo fs for the legendary Dante collec on of 1996? It's him. Roman cism and Func onality In 2003, he landed in California, on the lands of Armistead Maupin, and transformed the embryo of the Academy's fashion course into an elite forma on that reconciled the Old Con nent crea vity with an American business pragma sm. Passionate, demanding, endowed with a Bri sh humor that scratches with panache, he defends an idea of designer’s profession breaking away from the cs of the me, a form of obs nate integrity.
Crea on of Abby Yang, Academy of Art University, New York, September 8th Randy Brooke / Ge y Images for Academy of Art University
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The runway show of "his" graduates gives reason to this method. Qing Guo's cleverly pleated so sets give vegan leather an original, modern and chic look. Abby Yang built singular and futuris c lady-like silhoue es by wrapping graceful twists-sculptures on classic skirts and dresses. Exuberant and elegant, roman c and func onal, Christopher Cabalona's men's tailored pieces mix precise cuts, tonal beige canvas overlays and metalwork details ... Each student, in his own way, is impressive with technical mastery and maturity. The West Coast does have its own crea ve resources. The future of American fashion could be played out there. Read more here (French): h ps://www.lemonde.fr/m-styles/ar cle/2019/09/13/new-york-fashion-week-lapepiniere-californienne_5509928_4497319.html