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York Fashion Week with one of the Academy’s School of Fashion designers. page 19.
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October 2016 volume 1 |
SCHOOL OF FASHION RUNWAY SHOW
STUNNING DESIGNS AT SCHOOL OF FASHION’S
20TH NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SHOW
The finale of Academy of Art University’s School of Fashion Spring/Summer 2017 NYFW runway show. Photo by Getty Images.
After hundreds of hours of preparation, the designers flew to New York City to present their unique visions on the biggest catwalk at the Spring/Summer 2017 event
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION RUNWAY SHOW
SCHOOL OF FASHION RUNWAY SHOW
(L–R) Brandon Kee, GeuMi Lee, Carly Dean, Dora Li, Nina Nguyen Hui, Yolanda Chiu, Melissa Kheng, Jing Qian, Yi Ru Chen, Anita Szu-Yi Chen, Natalya Sheveleva Robinson, Lindsey Trueman, Melody Hesaraky and Ben Ellis. Photo by Getty Images. By Stephan Rabimov New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has a few traditions: from the gathering of leading press and celebrity guests, to incessantly hash-tagging runway photos on social media, to name a couple. Since 2005, a new custom has emerged—a must-have invitation to Academy of Art University School of Fashion graduates’ collection show—which has steadily earned a reputation as point of reference for the future of fashion. This season was no exception; 13 recent School of Fashion graduates debuted their creations on Sept. 10 on the biggest catwalk at NYFW Spring/Summer 2017. On the third day of Fashion Week, seven womenswear and three menswear collections were on display during the School of Fashion’s 20th NYFW runway show held at The Arc/ Skylight at Moynihan Station on West 33rd Street, a stone’s throw from the historic Garment District. The packed, expectant house included fashion industry insiders and representatives of the national and international press.
Only the School of Fashion show could get Miss Universe and Miss USA into the same room at the same time. “Since our first runway presentation at New York Fashion Week in September 2005, the show has grown in size and in the caliber of those in attendance such as retail executives, designers, recruiters, as well as the national and international media,” said Dr. Elisa Stephens, president of Academy of Art University. “We have always been committed to help launch the careers of our students, and are honored to have a platform of this magnitude to present their work.” The event marked the culmination of hundreds of hours of preparation, from the first seeds of creative ideas to their successful realization on the runway. After flying from San Francisco to New York, the designers put the finishing touches on their work at Kimball Studios in Union Square, with an occasional free moment to take in the surrounding panoply of Fashion Week and the city that never sleeps. When the moment
October 2016 volume 1 | page 3
of truth finally came, the blacked-out space was dominated by a giant panel projection of bright lights which illuminated the runway floor, while the Academy’s backdrop logo glowed a fierce red behind it, and hypnotic lyrics with New Wave sounds filled the hall. And so it began. This international, multi-cultural crew of designers came from all over the world: Vietnam, Taiwan, South Korea and China were represented, as well as talents from Alaska, Indiana and Utah. “Each of the designers holds a unique and thoughtful vision,” said Simon Ungless, executive director of the School of Fashion at the Academy. “Their collections honor the essence of our industry and carry a conscientious connection to textile design, three-dimensional design, tailoring and construction techniques. It has been a pleasure for all of us in the School of Fashion to guide them while preserving their individuality and integrity.” The whole was greater than the sum of its parts, as was apparent from the
The School of Fashion’s 20th NYFW runway show was held at The Arc/Skylight at Moynihan Station on West 33rd Street. Photo by Getty Images.
minute the show began, even if somewhat fashionably late. The spirit of collaboration pervaded the experience; the School of Fashion produced not just designers, but a community driven by the desire to work together, collaborate, invent and improve upon the status quo in fashion. Those unable to be there in person tuned in via live stream at http://www.academyart.edu/runway to see these stories unfold. Here is the order that the Academy students’ designs appeared on the runway: Nina Nguyen Hui: M.F.A. womenswear design, from Da Nang, Vietnam. Her collection was inspired by creatures of the sea and the organic nature of their patterns. “I just love the colors, the corals, the blue and the textures,” she said. “Coral can be fierce and unforgiving, but also exhibits a soft beauty. At times, it is both powerful and fragile.” Hui used tulles, yarns and embroidery, with tambour beading techniques and laser cutting for her whimsical, transparent designs. While studying at the Academy, she won a competition to intern at BCBG Max Azria, where she created samples using macramé and other craft techniques. Her looks were featured in the “Celebrating 30 Years of Hervé Léger” Collection at the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show. Melissa Kheng: M.F.A. menswear design, from Singapore. Her collection was inspired by the unabashed masculinity of the Japanese Bosozoku motorcycle subculture and utilitarian elements of traditional fishermen. Both concepts share the common theme: being part of a group that gives life meaning through solidarity with others. Waxed cotton coats and jackets, oversized pocket pants, layered panels and laser-cut graphic pieces were combined with classic
streetwear shapes. Her style motto: Knowing who you are, what you need to say—and not caring the slightest bit. Natalya Sheveleva Robinson: B.F.A. knitwear design, from Izhevsk, Russia. Her subconscious use of eerie, sinister, Malachi green colors were inspired by Arnold Schoenberg’s musical theory, “The Emancipation of Dissonance,” and Art Deco architecture. Robinson contrasted warm and cold colors and the sharp geometric linear with fluid draping. She released herself from logical constraints to free herself to experiment. “You have to let go and [allow] the moment of surprise and magic to happen,” she said. Yi Ru Chen: M.F.A. womenswear design, from Taipei, Taiwan. Her collection, done in collaboration with Jing Qian, aims to express “the changeable and soft feeling of water such as melting forms and streams.’’ Her fluid silhouettes combine 1920s shapes with minimalist drapes creating relaxed, comfortable garments. Jing Qian: M.F.A. textile design. Born in Suzhou, China, she grew up in Japan. While studying for a B.F.A. in illustration, she interned at Alexander McQueen. Collaborating with M.F.A. womenswear designer Yi Ru Chen, Qian’s fabrics feature abstract prints on organic cotton and jersey. Large brush strokes and hand painted giant flowers patterns are printed using eco-friendly pigments. Lindsey Trueman: M.F.A. womenswear design, from Alberta, Canada. Her collection was inspired by her indigenous heritage and the story of her great-great grandmother. Tailored suits with cleanly fitted silhouettes were created using repurposed antique grain sacks bearing original embroidered initials and burnout brocade.
Some of the inspiration for the collection also came from the late British artist/fashion designer Christopher Nemeth. Ben Ellis: B.F.A. menswear design, from Anchorage, Alaska. After an eclectic childhood growing up around the Bush Pilots, he started drawing his own superheroes at age three. After seeing the dramatic deterioration of his native Alaskan habitat, being sustainable and ethical is critically important. “All my t-shirts and jerseys have been donated,’’ he said. His collection uses repurposed denim and jersey and was inspired by the work of the French artists Andre Derain and Henri Matisse and the Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky. Ellis was awarded the 2016 California Fashion Foundation Award during his last semester at the School of Fashion. Anita Szu-Yi Chen: M.F.A. knitwear design. Born and raised in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. Chen uses cashmere, virgin and Merino wools in unexpected ways. Her collection explores the difference between “appearance and expectation’’ in clothing construction. Her work features bold block colors in muted patterns on boxy, oversized silhouettes, with lots of pleating. She manipulates knitwear designs
NEW LOOK
into angular shapes, with structured folds and designs her fabrics to be reversible, with patterns on both sides. Dora Li: M.F.A. womenswear design, from Zhejiang Province, China. After completing her B.F.A. in fashion design in China, she worked as an assistant designer at Ningbo Peacebird Group. Dora’s collection was inspired by Asian children workers of the ’40s who wore adults’ clothes, with awkward but touching proportions. Li blended age and gender in these menswear-style suit designs to develop an interesting silhouette with key elements, including a high waist and pleats. She used a mix of cotton, linen, silk shirting and wool constructed from burn out fabrics created in collaboration with M.F.A. textile designer Carly Dean. Carly Dean: M.F.A. textile design, from Indianapolis, Indiana. Collaborating with M.F.A. womenswear design student Dora Li, Dean was also inspired by the worn-in, mended feel of the workers’ garments. “I wanted to create a similar feeling in my textiles,” she said. “What most inspired me was finding beautiful and unexpected textures throughout the city.” Using a burnout technique allowed her prints to be created using texture.
While a School of Fashion student, Dean interned at Abercrombie and Fitch, developing and designing prints for seasonal concepts. GeuMi Lee: M.F.A. womenswear design, from Seoul, South Korea. Sportswear for a practical purpose, Lee’s collection combined active sportswear with traditional Asian garments. Football jackets, boxing shorts and martial arts skirts were made with technical fabrics like polyethylene and polypropylene to create sophisticated sculptural forms. Brandon Kee: B.F.A. menswear design, from Salt Lake City. Kee’s collection is a mix of oversized baggy cuts mixed with aviation-influenced details that pay homage to early ’90s hip-hop and the Chinese anti-gravity pilot suits of the ’70s. Cotton jacquards, reversed and stripped of color, create a beautiful textured blemish of yellows and purple tones. “I scrapped some items I thought looked pleasing to the eye and was able to rust-dye them in a manner that cohesively went with the flowers.” Kee was awarded a Teen Vogue Scholarship while studying at the School of Fashion. Yolanda Chiu: M.F.A. jewelry & metal arts, from Taiwan. Chiu created a vibrant acrylic eyewear
The blacked-out space was dominated by a giant panel projection of bright lights which illuminated the runway floor, while the Academy’s backdrop logo glowed a fierce red behind it. Photo by Getty Images. collection that was used in the collections of M.F.A. designers Nina Nguyen Hui, GeuMi Lee and Yi Ru Chen. Before enrolling at the Academy, she worked as a jewelry and graphic designer in Taiwan and founded a private label, Yolanda C. Studio. The Academy’s show brought together the individual visions of designers from all over the world and united them seamlessly. As the collections encored, the
exhausted yet happy designers took their bows. Perhaps Ellis summed up his reaction, and that of his peers, best. Asked how he felt at the end of his New York Fashion Week debut, he replied: “High, alive, tired, grateful, humbled— and ready.’’
Stephan Rabimov is the Director of Fashion Journalism & Social Media.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
FRONT ROW REACTIONS
Front row reactions: Before and after the show
FRONT ROW REACTIONS DEREK WARBURTON
“I always feel that the Academy is like the Central Saint Martins of America. I love the show! I think it’s always so cool and really fun, and it’s not direct to retail, so I feel like designers can be more experimental. Every year I’m inspired by Derek Warburton something here and it ends at Academy of Art runway show up being one of my favorite University’s at New York Fashion Week. shows of the week!” Photo by Danielle Rueda.
By Tyler Drinnen
Here are some front row raves and reactions to the Academy of Art University Fashion Show, direct from Skylight at Moynihan Station on West 33rd Street in Manhattan, where the event was held. YULIA KACHALOVA
VICTORIA SIMAKOVA
“I was at the [Academy] show two years ago and it was incredible. I had access to backstage and interviewed popular faces, so I was really looking forward to seeing what was in store for this year’s designers. In the past, they’ve had styles that I would immediately want to wear off of the runway.”
“What I love about seeing designs on the runway is that they may seem a bit weird at first, but in a good way. You would never think about wearing some selections in a certain way and when you see it come down the runway, it changes your perspective. I already know I’m about to get surprised and I’m looking forward to those surprises.”
(L–R) Western European bloggers Yulia Kachalova and Victoria Simakova. Photo by Hermin Jaramillo.
Haute Living Fashion Editor and San Francisco socialite Sonya Molodetskaya. Photo by Danielle Rueda. SONYA MOLODETSKAYA
“I’ve been coming to the show, both in San Francisco and New York for the last 10 years. And I support fully the artists, students and designers of San Francisco. I’m expecting the best, because there is always the best talent here!”
(Center) Co-owner and creative director of LAPALME Magazine and former TV personality Derek Warburton pictured with his close friends.
M.A. fashion journalism student Tyler Drinnen interviewing Derek Warburton at Academy of Art University’s runway show at New York Fashion Week. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Photo by Getty Images.
(Left) Fashion show attendee Hannah Harry with friends. Photo by Hermin Jaramillo.
HANNAH HARRY
“I’m excited to see who the ‘next great designer’ is going to be!”
M.A. fashion journalism student Tyler Drinnen interviewing Sonya Molodetskaya at Academy of Art University’s runway show at New York Fashion Week. Photo by Danielle Rueda. PIA ALONZO WURTZBACH
First-time attendee, fashion merchandising student Avie Lou. Photo by Faye Harris.
Eric West. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
AVIE LOU
(L–R) Annual Academy of Art University show attendees Tashiana Washington, Eric West and Jeannie Ortega. Photo by
“I don’t really have any expectations, but hey, it’s New York so anything can happen on the catwalk.”
Getty Images.
ERIC WEST
“I think this show is going to be one of the coolest of the week! I’m super excited because I love fashion. I love seeing what kids can create. I don’t know how to design clothes and I find it amazing that they can do that. It’s the coolest thing to sit down and create something the world is going to wear one day.”
M.A. fashion journalism student Tyler Drinnen interviewing Eric West at Academy of Art University’s runway show at New York Fashion Week. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
JACK MACKENROTH
Model and fashion designer Jack Mackenroth, who competed in the fourth season of “Project Runway.” Photo by Danielle Rueda.
“Generally, this is my favorite show of the year because [the designers] don’t necessarily care about sales, production and merchandising; they get to make art and share their vision. It’s totally art!”
M.A. fashion journalism student Tyler Drinnen interviewing Jack Mackenroth at Academy of Art University’s runway show at New York Fashion Week. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
(L–R) Actress Klavdia Ramnareine, Haute Living Fashion Editor and San Francisco socialite Sonya Molodetskaya and Farah Makras. Photo by Getty Images. CHRISTIAN GONZALEZ
“Our friend’s name is Ben Ellis, who is from Alaska, where his background is captured in the elements of his designs, even including the wild animals on his clothes. He works very hard at what he does! It’s been a really long road for him to get to where he is now. We’re just so happy to see that all of his art— he’s a painter, a singer, he does so many things—all of his art has come together into the medium of fashion and it’s fantastic to see the end result.”
(Right) Christian Gonzalez and friend. Photo by Hermin Jaramillo.
“There will be so many great looks to see on the runway tonight, that I know. It will be hard to determine my favorites. I’m especially looking forward to seeing the pieces that I Miss Universe 2015 Pia Alonzo know I would wear.” Wurtzbach. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
M.A. fashion journalism student Tyler Drinnen interviewing Pia Alonzo Wurtzbach at Academy of Art University’s runway show at New York Fashion Week. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
Thirteen School of Fashion designers debuted their Spring/Summer 2017 collections at New York Fashion Week School of Fashion designer profile photos by Bob Toy.
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Bomber Jacket by Ragnhild, ‘Rory’ Denim Moto Jacket by Project White Elephant. Photography by Danielle Rueda
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE
PROFILE
Nina Nguyen Hui
Melissa Kheng
Nina Nguyen Hui, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Da Nang, Vietnam. After completing her B.F.A. in fashion design, she worked as a bridal design intern in two ateliers in Chicago. While studying in the School of Fashion, she won a competition to intern in BCBG Max Azria where she created samples using macrame and other craft techniques. Her looks were featured in the “Celebrating 30 Years of Hervé Léger” collection at the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show. For Spring 2017, Hui’s collection is inspired by sea corals and the organic nature of their patterns. Sea coral can be fierce and unforgiving but also exhibit a soft beauty that is both powerful and fragile. Her interest in learning various techniques shows throughout her designs which feature elaborate tambour beading, embroidery and laser cutting.
Melissa Kheng, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Singapore. She completed her B.F.A. in fashion design at the Accademia Italiana, and worked as a fashion designer in EBAB International Singapore and Silvertab. In the United States, her work was included in exhibitions “The Story of The Creative” in 2013 and “SeeMe Takeover” in 2014. Kheng’s Spring 2017 collection is inspired by the unabashed masculinity of the Japanese subculture Bosozoku, and by utilitarian elements of traditional fishermen. Both concepts are similar in being part of a group that gave life meaning and solidarity with others. Waxed cotton coats and jackets, oversized pocket pants, layered panels and laser cut graphic pieces are combined with classic street wear shapes.
Da Nang, Vietnam
Singapore
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: Before committing, always make a sample.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: “Make [a] sample.”
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Learning new techniques and experiencing the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: A grey-green jacket. Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: [An] Hermès handbag.
Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: Never give up and always test materials.
Melissa Kheng
“Inspired by the unabashed masculinity of the Japanese Bosozoku motorcycle subculture and utilitarian elements of traditional fishermen”
Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: Maintaining the drive 24/7.
Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be? A: Christian Dior.
Photo by Getty Images.
MFA MENSWEAR DESIGN
Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: Manage your time, budget in advance, and don’t be afraid to try something new.
Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: Seeing progress, creating new ideas and mock-ups.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Working hard with my peers.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
MFA WOMENSWEAR DESIGN
Nina Nguyen Hui
“Inspired by creatures of the sea and the organic nature of their patterns”
Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: Working on actual materials and taking criticism with a positive approach. Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: Getting to experience it with my peers and see everyone’s collections come to life. Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: Rihanna.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: My Chelsea boots and sneakers. Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: [A] collection of Adidas NMD sneakers. Q: What is your style motto? A: I would say that my style motto is knowing who you are, what you need to say and not caring the slightest bit.
Photo by Getty Images. Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your style motto? A: A woman can never go wrong wearing a nice dress.
Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: My hard drive with all my past work.
Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: Wedding ring.
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Having the knowledge to develop app[s] or coding.
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Culinary talent.
Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I used to golf at a young age and was offered to take up golf as a professional career.
Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I thought about pursuing a nursing degree before deciding to go into fashion design. Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Elie Saab, Christian Dior [and] Oscar de la Renta.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Both of my parents as they have total opposite styles. My mom is attracted to black and classic items, whereas my dad digs the streetwear culture.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: The show and the days leading up to it were such a rush and so exciting! It was an amazing experience. I’m exhausted but ready and looking forward to my next challenge.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: It was a really great experience, and I enjoyed it throughout the process. I cannot wait to embark on to the next chapter in my life. New York Fashion Week was a dream come true for me.
Illustration by Nina Nguyen Hui, M.F.A. fashion design.
Photo by Getty Images.
Mood board by Melissa Kheng, M.F.A. fashion design.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE
PROFILE
Natalya Sheveleva Robinson
Lindsey Trueman
Alberta, Canada
Izhevsk, Russia
Natalya Sheveleva Robinson, B.F.A. knitwear design, was born and raised in Izhevsk, Russia. Her experience in the United States includes textile design for Joy and Mario footwear, knitwear design for RVN, costume design and production for the Davies Symphony Hall choral performance, as well as design and store managing for Loft 1513. Inspiration for her Spring 2017 collection evolved from Arnold Schoenberg’s musical theory “Emancipation of Dissonance” as well as Art Deco architecture. “I drew a visual parallel to this [modernist] impulse in the contradictory characteristics of the Art Deco architecture. Celebrating harmony of discord, I set out to express the nostalgia of the old world beauty in its dissonant echo of the machine-age call to the future,” she explained. She challenged herself to express synergy of the opposites such as warm and cold colors, and strong geometric lines with fluid drapes. As a knitwear designer, she manipulated every stitch to show this graphic composition incorporating the idea of a textile print into knitwear. “My challenge was to create seamless engineered graphics unique to each look, while constructing draped garments,” Robinson said of her production process. “This took an incredible and immense amount of time and mathematical preciseness.” Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: “Don’t overthink it.” Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I think it is a tie between a moment of reflection at the end of a trying semester, recognizing how much I have grown within the span of [a] few class projects; and the exhilaration that ignites when inspiration finally develops into a real and comprehensible form. When you finally nail the feeling you have been after to pull into a real form since the inspirational conception. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Create and implement a good time management system. Always have things to go to that will pick up your mood and energy. Oh yes, and don’t forget to sleep. Q: Ignoring the cost, what designer would you buy right now? A: Haider Ackermann. Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: That I do not have a natural Afro to rock. Q: Which items in your closet do you most use? A: Fedoras. Q: What is your style motto? A: There is no such thing as too many layers, but it has to support comfort of movement.
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Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: Because dance is my first passion in life, I would love to be a free jazz saxophone prodigy.
Illustration by Lindsey Trueman, M.F.A. fashion design.
MFA WOMENSWEAR DESIGN
Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Madeleine Vionnet, because of her revolutionary approach to a fabric cut and genius in draping. Yohji Yamamoto with his avant-garde interpretation of traditional Japanese and Western daywear. Rei Kawakubo and her fearless deconstruction philosophy. Q: What are you listening to these days? A: I have been listening to lots of audiobooks while knitting and my latest favorite is “The Fountainhead” by Ayn Rand. Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: I have been having the most intense flashes of daydreaming of all of the important moments in my past that have paved the way to connect the dots of this seemingly impossible journey of showing my work on the NYFW stage. • In one moment, I am barely 15 years old, waving goodbye to my entire family as I set out for America in pursuit of a bright future. • In the next moment, I am in a wheelchair and dazed by the painkillers as I recover from a double foot surgery, while sewing up the Competition Collection Entry, while envisioning winning a chance to attend my dream school—Academy of Art University. • A moment after, I am shuffling down the stage on crutches to receive my prize of a Presidential Scholarship to attend the Academy of Art University. • Then fast forward, I am attending my first semester in the School of Fashion, yet again on crutches, recovering from a 4th foot surgery as I hold in my heart the intention and motivation that has brought me to this school. • The next four years are a kaleidoscope of high-inspired moments and complete sleepless delirium, challenged and inspired by an incredible team of [instructors]. • Then in the blink of time, my eyes are teary, watching my collection walking the New York Fashion Week stage. What now? The feeling of exhilaration and joy that I have in my heart brings deep gratitude to my parents, my dear friends, and the [instructors] in the School of Fashion, who have become my mentors, for what they gave me as I continue my journey forward. In my thoughts of tomorrow, I see myself in Europe interning and working towards having an inspired and successful business. I see myself in a place where I am able to support and help other artists with their creative momentum while seeking their place in the world.
Lindsey Trueman
“Inspired by Trueman’s indigenous heritage and the story of her great-great grandmother”
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
BFA KNITWEAR DESIGN
Natalya Sheveleva Robinson
“Inspired by Arnold Schoenberg’s musical theory, ‘The Emancipation of Dissonance,’ and Art Deco architecture”
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: There are a few things that have really stuck with me. I will never forget my first ever day of design class, I was terrified because I had no art background and very little drawing ability and my design instructor told us emphatically that hard work is infinitely more important than raw talent. If you work hard and just keep at it, you will be able to learn the skills you need and people will come alongside you to help and teach you. Another piece of advice I was given that has been invaluable is to find my own design process and not compare it to someone else’s; we all function uniquely and have our own way of development and design. Finally, some of the very best advice I was given was that the insecurity will probably always be there; learn to embrace it and use it to keep pushing yourself to be better.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Illustration by Natalya Sheveleva Robinson, B.F.A. knitwear design.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Lindsey Trueman, M.F.A. fashion design, was born in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. After completing her B.A. in psychology, she worked as Program Director in youth center Stepping Stones in Edmonton. Trueman’s experience in the United States includes working as a design intern for Sara Shepherd (2005 B.F.A. fashion design alumna and current instructor, whose collection was shown in the Academy’s first New York Fashion Week show) and teaching teenagers the basics of fashion design in summer camps. Her garment was included in “Celebrating 30 Years of Hervé Léger” collection in 2015 Graduation Fashion Show. Trueman’s thesis collection is inspired by the story of her great-great grandmother and her family’s indigenous heritage. Tailored silhouettes are created using repurposed grain sacks bearing original embroidered initials and burnout brocade. Garments appear to have already had their own life and story. By giving them new life, Trueman longs for honoring her own heritage, drawing strength from that and building a legacy for the future. Melody Hesaraky, M.F.A. textile design, created one of the prints used in Trueman’s collection.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I can’t choose just one! Presenting my first ever design project will probably always be one of my favorites, because I truly doubted that I could actually be a designer and in that moment, I had the realization that it was really possible. Another favorite was having a dress included in the Hervé Léger collaboration collection in the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: Embrace the process. The runway part of things is amazing, but it really only lasts about five minutes. You will spend hundreds of hours developing and creating your collection, so you have to love that process, with all of its ups and downs. You also have to learn to be flexible; things are going to change throughout the months of development
and creation, so finding the balance of maintaining your vision and implementing feedback is key. It’s very important to spend the time during pre-collection to delve [very] deeply into your research and developing your concept so you have a strong vision that can carry you through the whole process regardless of the changes and highs and lows involved. Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: All of it! Because I worked part-time throughout the entire process, time management was very challenging at times, and figuring out how to make the most of each day was very important. Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: All of it! I loved the research and concept development because it was so much about digging into my family history. I found out so many things [that] I didn’t know about my family and so many pictures that I didn’t know existed and it inspired me so much. I also loved the process of taking apart the grain sacks and transforming them from being old and worn into something new and beautiful. Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: Right now, my Birkenstocks get the most love and use because I’m on my feet all day every day whether I’m at work or in the studio! Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: Pretty much anything from the [early] collections of Alexander McQueen. Q: What is your style motto? A: Currently, if you don’t look like you got run over by a bus, you’re not working hard enough. [In general], wear what you love, don’t give a care to what others think and be yourself! Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Alexander McQueen—his storytelling, passion and perspective have moved and inspired me more than any other designer. He is one of the biggest reasons why I chose to pursue fashion design. Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: It all still feels very surreal! Showing my senior collection at NYFW has been my dream since I applied to Academy of Art University. I can hardly believe that I really did it! I am extremely honored to have been a part of the show. The journey here has been full of both challenges and successes and was harder than I ever imagined, but seeing my collection walk down the runway was overwhelmingly magical—no words can describe it! I am full of gratitude for all of the work put in behind the scenes, from the styling, casting, promotion and production of the show to all of the amazing people that rallied around us designers to help finish everything up, and everyone in between. There is so much more that goes into creating the show than I ever realized!
page 12 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
October 2016 volume 1 | page 13
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE PROFILE
Jing Qian
Yi Ru Chen
Suzhou, China
Taipei, Taiwan Yi Ru Chen, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Taipei, Taiwan. After completing her B.F.A. in visual and media art, she worked at Bun-Hung jewelry company as a studio assistant, creating jewelry designs and merchandising the showroom. In Taiwan, she won first prize at the Graphic Design of World Concern Competition. Chen’s Spring 2017 collection, in collaboration with Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design, aims to express the changeable and soft feeling of water such as melting forms and streams. Her fluid silhouettes combine 1920s shapes with minimalist drapes creating relaxed and comfortable garments.
Print by Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Bob Toy.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: Creativity doesn’t mean unwearable.
MFA TEXTILE DESIGN
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: The moment when everybody is helping each other trying to finish all the garments before deadline. Staying together every day until school close.
MFA WOMENSWEAR DESIGN
Yi Ru Chen
“Fluid silhouettes combine 1920s shapes with minimalist drapes creating relaxed, comfortable garments”
Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: You … better be prepared for no life (no [partying], no social life). Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: How to take all the advice and transfer [it] in my own way in the collection.
Jing Qian
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Print by Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Bob Toy.
Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: When my [ideas] and designs [were] accepted and approved.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Talking to instructors and getting advice about my work. Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: When there is a problem, don’t panic and enjoy it. Save money. Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: Every process is challenging, but choosing and testing for the right fabric for my design was very cumbersome. I tested almost 100 fabrics.
Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: Michelle Obama. I love her choice of prints. Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: Scarves.
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: Simple comfortable top with good quality material and pretty details.
Q: What is your style motto? A: A combination of organic fabrics with beautiful prints.
Q: What is your current state of mind? A: Continue building my ability of fashion and work for a good prospective company.
Print by Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Bob Toy.
Illustration by Yi Run Chen, M.F.A. fashion design.
Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: My family and my two-year old German shepherd dog. Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Dance.
Q: What is your style motto? A: The most beautiful thing of women is natural beauty. That means wearing something simple and comfortable.
Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I can’t tell you because I think it would be too shocking.
Q: What is your current mood? A: I’m on the way, catching my dream!
Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Dries van Noten [and] Eley Kishimoto.
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Be an IT (Information Technology) person. Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I’m good at Chinese meticulous painting of Buddha. Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Yohji Yamamoto [and] Rei Kawakubo.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: You’re a designer, so believe in yourself.
Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: Seeing my textiles become a piece of clothing.
Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon, who would it be? A: Karl Lagerfeld, for sure!
Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: I want to combine with my mother’s company, so that would be a diamond garment.
“Large brush strokes and hand painted giant flowers patterns are printed using eco-friendly pigments”
Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design, was born in Suzhou, China, and grew up in Nara, Japan. While studying for her B.F.A. in illustration, Qian interned with the Alexander McQueen team, where she created illustrations of embroidery on textiles for a seasonal collection. In China, she worked as a freelance graphic designer for Bailin Commercial Consulting. For the Spring 2017 collaborative collection with Yi Ru Chen, M.F.A. fashion design, Qian designed abstract prints on organic cotton and jersey. Large brush strokes and hand painted giant flower patterns are printed using eco-friendly pigments. “The pattern catches the eye first and the flowers are barely identifiable. Once you see it closely you realize it is just giant flowers. Also I used texture fabrics to give some three dimensional effect on the surface,” explained Qian.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Print by Jing Qian, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Bob Toy.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: It was amazing to see all those talented people working together backstage to make a great show. I was very moved when I saw my textile collaboration on the runway, and it was definitely one of the best moments of my life. I am very thankful to be selected by the school to debut at New York Fashion Week and I really appreciate all the support I have received during the process.
page 14 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
October 2016 volume 1 | page 15
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE PROFILE
Ben Ellis
Anita Szu-Yi Chen
Anchorage, Alaska Ben Ellis, B.F.A. menswear design, was born and raised in Anchorage, Alaska. Having seen first hand the dramatic deterioration of the native Alaskan habitat, Ellis upholds ethical and sustainable practices in his own design work. His Spring 2017 collection is inspired by the Fauvism oeuvre of French artist Andre Derain and climate change problems. “Images from back home in Alaska show animals starving to death because the terrain is no longer hospitable,” explained Ellis. “I lived in South America for four years and in that time there were a series of ecological upsets that were more severe than anything in recorded history. As a responsible designer, I want to be a part of the solution in regards to climate change and believe that even something small can help—like finding new uses for discarded t-shirts. Different animals are rendered into the garments; for me they represent a small portion of the diversity surrounding us.” Ellis used repurposed denim and jersey for the majority of his designs. Fabrication techniques include batik-discharge and what Ellis calls “daubs” of color. During his last semester at Academy of Art University, Ellis was awarded the 2016 California Fashion Foundation Scholarship Award. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: A couple of weeks ago my dad suggested a song by Ricky Nelson. The chorus goes: “You can’t please everyone, so you got to please yourself.” Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Getting to the point where I love putting on my headphones and just sewing for hours.
Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Mood board by Anita Szu-Yi Chen, M.F.A. knitwear design.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I met the people who have the same passion about knitwear and work together. Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
MFA KNITWEAR DESIGN Photo by Getty Images.
Anita Szu-Yi Chen
“Manipulates knitwear
MFA MENSWEAR DESIGN
Ben Ellis
“Inspired by French artists Andre Derain and Henri Matisse and the Russian painter Wassily Kandinsky”
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
designs into angular shapes, with structured folds and designs her fabrics to be reversible, with patterns on both sides”
Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Get some sleep, then keep working.
Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: I think it is time management, because there are a lot of things you have to take care of and make it work. Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: I can see my designs coming out step by step, piece by piece, [come] together. It really made me feel excited. Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: I think it would be Alexander McQueen. Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: My favorite is the over knee dress.
Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: It would be shoes, because shoes could be a highlight in [a] whole outfit.
Q: What is your greatest [style] regret? A: Worrying what other people think.
Q: What is your style motto? A: “I have always believed that fashion was not only to make women more beautiful, but also to reassure them, give them confidence.” —Yves Saint Laurent Illustration by Ben Ellis, B.F.A. menswear design.
Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: I treasure the people I meet in every moment.
Q: What is your style motto? A: Go with the flow and keep evolving.
Mood board by Anita Szu-Yi Chen, M.F.A. knitwear design.
Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: To sing like Otis [Redding].
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: [What] I would like to have the most is the rational and organized mind. Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: My friends always say that I am different than the first [time] they saw me.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Alexander McQueen, because of his artistry and spirit. Vivienne Westwood, because she has been so self-actualized. Christopher Nemeth, because he went his own way, had a successful life and those pants he made. Issey Miyake, because Issey Miyake. Livia Firth, because she is pushing for change in the industry and seeing it happen.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood and Sacai.
Q: What music are you listening to? A: The Roots, Sam Gellaitry, Ghost Loft, Raleigh Ritchie, Rilo Kiley [and] Kartell. Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: High, alive, tired, grateful, humbled and ready.
Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: You have to really understand what you want and what you want to achieve. And then just keep going with [a] strong mind.
Q: What is your current state of mind? A: Keep going to reach [my planned] goal.
Q: Ignoring the cost, what designer would you buy right now? A: Greg Lauren’s Fall 2016 collection, please.
Q: Which items in your closet do you most use? A: A pair of old boot cut jeans that I refashioned, my Einstein tee and my cowl-neck jacket.
Anita Szu-Yi Chen, M.F.A. knitwear design, was born and raised in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. After completing her B.F.A. in material arts and design, she worked as an assistant fashion designer in Miranda Garment and En-Suey international Garment companies in Taipei. She has also interned at 440 Brannan Studio in San Francisco. Chen’s thesis collection explores the dichotomy of appearance and expectations in the construction of clothing. “Everything has a different aspect between what things seem to be and what they are unexpected, just like the moment and the holistic or construction and deconstruction. The main ideas I got came from deconstructing the package and reconstructing into my designs,” said Chen. She manipulates her knitwear designs into angular shapes with structured folds, and designed her fabric to be reversible with patterns on both sides.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Illustration by Anita Szu-Yi Chen, M.F.A. knitwear design.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: I still can’t believe the show was over, we have been working so hard during these four months. Actually, the time we spent was more than that. I feel everything I spent was worth it. When I saw my designs on stage, I was so touched and proud of myself. I really appreciate all the help from the instructors and my friends, I know I couldn’t do it without them. And also it made me realize that knitwear design is really what I want to do in the future. Giving applause to every designer, I enjoyed the time we worked together. It was the best memory I had to conclude my life at [the Academy].
page 16 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
October 2016 volume 1 | page 17
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE PROFILE
Carly Dean
Indianapolis, Indiana
Dora Li
Ningbo, Zhejiang Province, China Dora Li, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Ningbo, Zhejiang Province, China. Li completed her B.F.A. in fashion design in China and worked as assistant designer at Ningbo Peacebird Group, where she did collection development research and was responsible for styling seasonal look books. She is also online portfolio instructor at Supportfolios, assisting fashion design students in developing their portfolios and adapting them to specific universities. In the U.S., she completed two internships, at San Franciscobased brand Amour Vert and at 440 Brannan Studio. For Spring 2017, Li was inspired by children workers in 1930s, wearing adults’ clothes, by their awkward yet touching proportions. “The historical images of poor children workers in adults’ clothes blew my mind,” said Li. High waist, pleats and oversized silhouettes are constructed from burn out fabrics created in collaboration with Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: Do samples and testing fabrics then you will know the truth. You will never know you can do it or not, only after you try it. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I can show my work to others on [the] runway and make myself more confident. Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: One, before you decided to do collection you need to ask yourself what do you want. Two, be ready to suffer a lot and pay a lot of tears. Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: To know myself better and show my idea in [a] fantastic way. Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: I can be more confident and I learned how to deal with stress and being productive.
Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: I think I won’t be someone else, I’m the only me. I hope I can be a better and stranger me. Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: All my black pants. Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: Yohji Yamamoto’s jackets and pants and dress…all the collections.
Mood board by Dora Li., M.F.A. fashion design.
MFA WOMENSWEAR DESIGN
Dora Li
“Inspired by Asian children workers of the ’40s who wore adults’ clothes, with awkward but touching proportions”
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: Do what you think works best for the collection and don’t overthink it.
Textile by Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your style motto? A: No one is perfect, so I do not want to change myself.
Textile by Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Getty Images.
Carly Dean
“Inspired by the wornin, mended feel of the workers’ garments”
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Math, because I’m not good at math.
Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: I’m sure it’s different for everyone, but for me, I was under a time crunch and had to get everything produced before leaving for a summer internship. People doubted I would be able to do it but that just gave me more motivation to get it done! Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: Planning and organizing all the technical aspects of creating textiles on a large scale.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: Iris [Apfel].
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Yohji Yamamoto.
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: My Birkenstocks.
Q: What is your current state of mind? A: Tired, but in good way, which means I love what I am doing now, and I am so excited and exhausted. Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: After that show night, the second day when I woke up, I just felt so tired. It seemed that I didn’t sleep for many days. And the first thing I was thinking about is that I need to go to the studio to work on my collection and then I realized that the show was done. The feeling is so unreal, just like if I had a long dream. I still feel a little bit empty, because I had been so busy for awhile and now I don’t need to work these long hours. But after all of the complicated emotions, I just give myself a short break, then I will move to New York to start a new page of my life.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Late nights in the lab with the textile girls! Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: If you are given the opportunity, do it! It won’t always be easy and stress-free, but you will learn so much through the process.
MFA TEXTILE DESIGN
Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: Optimism and high productivity.
Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: For a fashion designer, I’m also quite a good chef.
Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design, was born and raised in Indianapolis, Indiana. While a student in the School of Fashion, she interned at Abercrombie and Fitch where she assisted in developing and designing prints for seasonal concepts. Dean collaborated with M.F.A. fashion design student Dora Li. She created multi-layered fabrics treated in a burnout technique. “I was most inspired by the worn-in and mended feel of the workers’ garments. I wanted to create a similar feeling in my textiles,” explained Dean. “What most inspired me while developing sketches for the collection was finding beautiful and unexpected textures throughout the city.”
Q: What is your current state of mind? A: In the pursuit of happiness. Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: A custom-made gown. Textile by Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Getty Images.
Textile by Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design. Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your style motto? A: Simplicity. Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: My bike. I can get all over San Francisco, for free!
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: To be able to complete an Ironman triathlon. Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I love backpacking and being in nature as often as possible. Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: Anyone who can wear heels all day.
Illustration by Dora Li., M.F.A. fashion design.
Mood board by Carly Dean, M.F.A. textile design.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: After getting to show my work at New York Fashion Week, I am feeling so grateful for the opportunity. Getting to show something that I created at a fashion show of that caliber is something very special.
page 18 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
October 2016 volume 1 | page 19
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
PROFILE
PROFILE
GeuMi Lee
Brandon Kee
Seoul, South Korea
Murray, Utah
GeuMi Lee, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Seoul, South Korea. After completing her B.F.A. at Ewha University, Korea, in western painting and printmaking, Lee interned at Diane von Furstenberg, Vera Wang and Wes Gordon. Her Spring 2017 collection is based on the ideas of athleticism and Orientalism. “I am intrigued by the idea of combining the passionate active sportswear with the serene traditional Asian garments. General mood for my collection is full of athletic Orientalism with modern and sexy sophistication,” explained Lee. Football jackets, boxing shorts and martial arts skirts are made of technical fabrics, such as polyethylene and polypropylene, creating sculptural forms.
Brandon Kee, B.F.A. menswear design, grew up in Murray, Utah. While in high school, Kee assisted in the creation of window displays for Nordstrom BP Fashion Board. Kee’s collection is a combination of oversized baggy cuts mixed with aviation-inspired details that pay homage to ’90s hip hop and Chinese anti-gravity pilot suits of the 1970s. He applied rust die techniques to transform the conventional materials and reversed the jacquard fabric using the “wrong” side. While studying in the School of Fashion, Kee was awarded a Teen Vogue Scholarship.
Mood board by GeuMi Li, M.F.A. fashion design.
MFA WOMENSWEAR DESIGN
GeuMi Lee
“Combined active sportswear with traditional Asian garments”
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: Problem solving is an important skill for [a] fashion designer.
Illustration by Brandon Kee, B.F.A. menswear design.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: To never forget why it was I chose this field. To know and understand not all things are going to go my way and that’s okay. When they don’t, evaluate why, and correct or pivot. Stay positive and focused on the ultimate vision. I try to do these things by being closely attached to my roots but allowing myself room for expansion, growth and new experiences.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Hanging out with friends in the studio. We discuss fashion and give good advice [to] each other about works. Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: I would tell them to not think so hard or plan so fast. Doing collection is a long journey.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: When it comes to using real fabric, you have to make changes a lot. Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: When I have [a] problem with process, I can discuss it with my classmates. My friends and my teachers always give me great solutions. Q: If you could come back as a fashion icon who would it be? A: I would be someone like Margiela. In [the] future, I want to do [an] artistic but wearable line.
Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Get organized well in advance and test/find your fabric/trims ASAP. Q: Ignoring the cost, what would you buy right now? A: Rick Owens Superstar Ripple, brown, mid-calf boots.
Photo by Getty Images. Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
BFA MENSWEAR DESIGN
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: T-shirt.
Brandon Kee Photo by Getty Images.
Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: Haute couture. Q: What is your style motto? A: Subtle design details and fabric qualities make big changes. Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: I can say it is a relationship with my family. All of my family member[s] support me always. Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Fine art (drawing and installation). Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I have strong identity and social skill. My personality and how I look are different. Most of the time, people would be surprised by [my] true [self].
Illustration by GeuMi Li, M.F.A. fashion design. Photo by Getty Images.
“A mix of oversized baggy cuts mixed with aviationinfluenced details that pay homage to early ’90s hip-hop and the Chinese anti-gravity pilot suits of the ’70s”
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Pink is the new black, everything from hot topic. Q: Which items in your closet do you most use? A: Black waxed denim jeans, long line tee and an oversized denim jacket. Q: What is your style motto? A: If you feel it, wear it. Photo by Getty Images.
Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: To be able to sing like Sam Cooke. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Johnny Depp’s (2003) eclectic approach, Kanye West’s IDGAF attitude and the “jiggyness” of A$AP Rocky.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: My mom. She taught me the way to appreciate fashion and she inspired me during my childhood and even now. Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: I still can’t believe it is done. During two semesters, I have learned so much and have grown as a designer. The NYFW experience was definitely a precious moment for me. It was different from helping backstage as a volunteer, because I had responsibility and learned everything from experienced instructors and director. We were a team, including my classmates. I will never forget that excitement and journey. That was a great motivation for me to keep working hard for my dream. Thank you everyone who helped me during this opportunity.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Experiencing the school fashion show as a freshman. It was the first show I’d been to and it inspired me to work hard in the hopes to one day showcase my work to an audience of friends and family.
Q: What are you listening to? A: Drake’s “Views From the 6.”
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Photo by Getty Images.
Mood board by Brandon Kee, B.F.A. menswear design.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: How you are feeling after your New York Fashion Week debut? A: It’s a surreal moment in my life and it all seemed to happen so quick. I know that being a part of NYFW was much bigger than just me and it felt right. I felt I put my best work yet forward and got a positive response. I loved seeing people truly enjoy the clothes and the story behind the collection. It’s crazy to think all these ideas started with my computer or just came from thin air. It feels good to see something all the way through and perform at this level. I’m excited to see what’s next!
page 20 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SCHOOL OF FASHION SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTIONS
NYFW LIVE STREAM
Live is the new normal Digital, social and design worlds meet to showcase student fashion
PROFILE
By Adelina González Alcorta
Yolanda Chiu Taipei, Taiwan
Yolanda Chiu, M.F.A. jewelry and metal arts, was born and grew up in Taipei, Taiwan. Before studying at the Academy of Art University, she worked as a jeweler and graphic designer in Taiwan and founded her private label Yolanda C. Studio. For Spring 2017, Chiu created a collection of acrylic glasses featuring western decorative patterns. Baroque laser cut forms realized in flashy pop-art colors bring playful accents to the collections by Nina Nguyen Hui, GeuMi Lee and Yi Ru Chen. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received from an instructor in the School of Fashion? A: You can do it! Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: In jewelry design, it’s fun to work with everyone else in the studio everyday.
This self-proclaimed fashionista is having the best New York Fashion Week (NYFW) seats right on her comfy couch 2,917.8 miles away from New York City. On Saturday, Sept. 10, the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University showcased 13 of their most prominent graduates via live streaming at http://www. academyart.edu/runway. Thanks to the advantages of globalization and the Internet, everyone could get up close to the catwalk. The fashion world is taking full advantage of the new digital era, where the ability to share and see what’s happening everywhere around the world in real time or at the most convenient time has overruled the old industry
Photo by Getty Images.
Glasses by Yolanda Chiu, M.F.A. jewelry & metal arts. Collection photographer: Nick Gutierrez. Art direction: Simon Ungless. Stylist: Danielle Wallis. Hair and makeup: Joshua Conover of WorkGroup. Photo assistant: Danielle Rueda.
MFA JEWELRY & METAL ARTS
Yolanda Chiu
“Baroque laser cut forms realized in flashy popart colors”
Photo by Getty Images.
standards and practices. Live is the new normal. The live streaming show veered between glimpses of romanticism to modern minimalist silhouettes and oversized textural prints, resulting in an all-round perfectly tailored collaborative collection. The viewer’s side was so perfect that the detailing was palpable. The show began with Nina Nguyen Hui’s designs. Her collection had an organic feel that reflected a prevailing coral inspiration and a soft color palette that evoked romanticism, fragility and perfect tailoring. Her techniques of tambour beading, embroidery and laser cutting could be seen when the close ups of the camera showcased the work. The movement created by her layering of the fabrics was eye-catching and pleasing. The runway show
continued with a contrasting collection that had masculinity, minimalism and excellent methodology, drawing immediate applause across the social media. “Appreciating the detail of this contrast jacket with the laser-cut sleeves by Melissa Kheng #AcademyUFashion always delivers with amazing talent!!” said Maria Serquen, a fashion editorial contributor at Net-A-Porter, on her Instagram page. A great advantage of this new digital era is that you can not only see everything online, but also receive immediate reactions (and feedback). It creates a dialogue with potential buyers, merchandisers, journalists and clients. The use of streaming on Facebook Live, Instagram, Twitter, Periscope, Snapchat, NYFW.com and the brands’ own sites has helped the de-
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? A: Be patient and never give up. Q: What was the most challenging part of doing collection? A: Meet everyone’s expectation and mine. Q: What was your favorite part of doing collection? A: [That] my works met the expectation.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What item of clothing in your closet is your favorite/do you most use? A: Sunglasses.
Above and below: dreams come true; School of Fashion graduate fashion designers are witnessing the moment their collections appear on the runway at New York Fashion Week. Photos by Getty Images.
Q: What is your current state of mind? A: Calm, yet anxious. Q: If cost was not a factor, what would be your biggest fashion purchase? A: A good pair of sunglasses.
Photo by Getty Images.
Q: What is your style motto? A: Simple, comfortable and dark. Q: What is your most treasured possession? A: My skills and ideas. Q: What non-fashion talent would you most like to have? A: Fly. Q: What would people be surprised to know about you? A: I am a very patient person. Q: Who are your favorite fashion heroes in real life? A: My friend James.
October 2016 volume 1 | page 21
Photo by Getty Images.
Glasses by Yolanda Chiu, M.F.A. jewelry & metal arts. Collection photographer: Nick Gutierrez. Art direction: Simon Ungless. Stylist: Danielle Wallis. Hair and makeup: Joshua Conover of WorkGroup. Photo assistant: Danielle Rueda.
Designer Brandon Kee is watching his look on the backstage monitor. Photo by Getty Images. mocratization of fashion reach a whole new level. This digital era in fashion is changing things so rapidly, that almost in a Darwinian way one could foresee which brands and designers will survive based on early social media reactions. B.F.A. knitwear designer Natalya Sheveleva Robinson created her Art Decoinspired collection with a colder color palette and a ’90s vibe. It looked easy and comfortable. Designer Anita Szu-Yi Chen’s darker color palette, geometric shapes, and play on color blocking could be very marketable to any customer. You could also watch the runway show from NYFW.com, where the option to pin your favorite looks on Pinterest or to share them on other social media platforms was available as the models walked down the runway. The digital era offers assistance to the bright spots in the fashion galaxy that could get lost in all the noise. It is precisely what happened when Yi Ru Chen and Jing Qian’s collaboration came up in the livestream. Pinning their fluid 1920s silhouettes with a hint of minimalism, and a modern take on camouflage with softer hues, was an eye-opening experience for me. The same happened
with Lindsey Trueman, M.F.A. fashion design, where the tailoring seemed impeccable, the layering of her monochromatic palette made us remember the good old ’90s, and the proportions created fluidity and dominance in the catwalk. And I kept pinning! Creativity at its best strutted down with B.F.A. menswear designer Ben Ellis. In a world where sustainability should be at the top of every designer’s mind, Ellis’ repurposed denim and jersey textiles should inspire future designers to play with volume, texture and prints. His prints notably worked perfectly with the live cameras, the lighting and urban music. Dora Li and Carly Dean’s textiles had an impact immediately. How did they do those prints? The textile design had an emotive effect that was created with a burnout technique. It made viewers like me crave second takes, so the stop and rewind function came in handy. GeuMi Lee and Brandon Kee explored athletic wear, Orientalism, and ’90s hip-hop with Chinese anti-gravity pilot suits, respectively. Lee got an “Espetacular! Congrats @academyufashion for the great team!” on Instagram from Cris Galott Consultoria, image consultant and personal shopper. While Kee got a “We can’t get enough!” from pretty much everyone at the Academy on their Instagram. His approach to using jacquard on the “wrong” side makes us wonder, “Why follow rules when you can break them?” As the student designers came down the runway, you could sense their awareness of where they were standing (in the middle of NYFW, that is), and overwhelming satisfaction that their hard work was viewed by thousands of onlookers around the world online. Their happiness was contagious and their pieces were innovative, while also very current and wearable. #Success.
Adelina González Alcorta is a M.A. fashion journalism student and FJ Student Representative.
page 22 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF BRANDON KEE
12 hours in the life of Brandon Kee in NYC By Tyler Drinnen
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF BRANDON KEE 3:17 PM
Studio work continues No sweat. Just focus. It’s the final deadline.
Originally from a small rural town near Salt Lake City, Utah, Academy of Art University B.F.A. menswear design student Brandon Kee left his hometown to pursue a dream of becoming a fashion designer. On Sept. 10, his dream came true. Kee showed his most recent collection alongside 12 other Academy students during New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017. “I couldn’t imagine being here a few months ago,” said Kee, when referring to his first trip to New York City. “I try hard not to have big expectations, but it’s way bigger than I imagined. No matter where you go, there is city environment all around you.” “The things that I do, the things I see, all transpire into my inspirations for each of my collections’ aesthetic,” said Kee. “I would like to think what I do is an art form. I don’t want to be pretentious with the terms, but I like to think that I am a creative that produces something that will inspire people. Making clothes comes natural to me.” Kee’s ambitious personality creates collection worthy design elements from color palettes that inspire him to draw silhouettes right on the spot. He takes inspiration from people’s personal street style and even finds muses from the swagger of hip-hop music. His Airbnb studio apartment, located in the heart of Brooklyn, was a hidden treasure where Kee stayed for a week leading up to the show. It became an ideal place for him to soak in all of the urban city’s culture for future collection ideas.
5:13 PM
Pack it up, move it out There were a few people who came up to Kee during the prep for the show that gave him praise for his outfit choice.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
8:30 PM
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
So what exactly was it like to be in Kee’s shoes for the day? We followed Kee for 12 hours. What we learned amazed us. Just picture the complete opposite of what you would imagine an anxious designer to be.
Know thyself Photo by Danielle Rueda.
6:55 PM
An honest reflection before the show Photo by Danielle Rueda.
9:33 AM
Get the morning juices flowing
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
10:45 AM
Recognizing time is always a factor Kee admits that some days are busier than most, so he may reduce or scratch his workout routine if he needs to accommodate for time. But with the emotionally impactful day he has planned, his regular minimum of 30 pushups and a light jog would most definitely not be missed. “I’m realizing that taking more time to take care of my skin and body are equally as important as me taking care of my portfolio,” said Kee. While he doesn’t have a set daily beauty regiment, he mentioned that Lam convinced him to get his first facial before he faced NYC for the first time.
“The biggest roadblock was that I knew what I wanted my silhouette to be; I had a vision for what I wanted to send down the runway, but I just didn’t know what it would be, fabrication-wise,” said Kee. “It took me months of sourcing and traveling to find the right fabric. It ended up being a couple fabrics with the right treatment that made the collection.”
Runway photos by Getty Images.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
9:11 PM
Destination: Manhattan
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Runway photos by Getty Images.
The reverse Jacquard material and blend of aviation inspired silhouettes felt very intuitive for Kee. Apparently, the washed out dye process, which was a mixed batch of both dyed before construction and dyed after, capture different spectrums of pinks and purples of the affixed floral patterns post treatment completion. The fabric’s original color was yellow-green. Kee took an old metal Victorian grate and broke it down with salt and vinegar to rust the metal, which he used for a textured stamp to dye parts of the fabric. While Kee was originally expecting each piece to be stiff and rugged in his preliminary vision of the collection, the clothes took on a life of their own when he began to construct them. During this phase he was able to bring his concepts to reality by morphing his artistic voice to match his original intention.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
12:35 PM
Kee hopped on the L-line subway train that brought him in close radius to the Kimball Studio, a space the Academy rents for designers to put finishing touches on their collections. He, as well as the rest of the designers, spent the next few hours making final design alterations and helping one another out where they could. Here camaraderie trumped anxiety.
When the pieces finally hit the runway, the collection he envisioned aligned the Air Force jumpsuit ruggedness and blended with a soft dusty pink palette to achieve a harmonious balance of polar opposites. The super drop crotch and tapered leg paired with oversized layers resembled the parachute needed to make it safely to the ground. And the laced strings found on staple pieces in the collection resemble the strings that form from a leftover inflated suit. Needless to say, the final run of applause from the packed venue sealed the moment for Kee; the end is just the beginning.
A collection worth noting
He wasn’t at all frazzled or stressed out—he didn’t let others impose their anxiety upon him. Instead he exuded a sense of confidence over the course of the day. He was in a joyful mood; the perfect mix of a calm, cool and collected individual, to say the least.
9:00 AM
Kee sat out on the balcony with his girlfriend Dina Lam, where they both had some scrambled eggs with a slice of toast and fruit bowl on the side. And while he doesn’t discriminate between his refreshments, he’d rather have a fresh cold glass of orange juice versus the typical water or morning coffee choices. During their morning date, Lam mentioned that she was planning to graduate from the Academy within the next year or so. She actually just started drafting designs for her graduate collection and plans to build samples out of muslin this fall semester. Lam is more than Kee’s cheerleader and supporter—she has become a key part of his team as the two have begun working more intimately over the last year. She helped assist Kee in the cutting and sewing details for this collection’s final runway pieces. The two designers fed off of one another’s energy, which created a unique synergy radiating from their personal bond. They used their time spent together in Brooklyn to gain further inspirations for future projects, possibly even ones that they will collaborate on together.
What Kee wore to the show: Bottega Veneta tortoise sunglasses, a custom oatmeal colored longline tee (a piece that he previously removed from his last collection,) a custom screen printed denim from Zara with added patches, and tan Rick Owens boots. He was also wearing two chain necklaces (pieces that he never takes off) which were given to him a few years ago by his mother.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
HERE IS KEE’S STORY, IN 12 HOURS:
“A typical day for me is that I first get my mind right,” said Kee. “I might wake up to read the paper or flip through a magazine I just bought. I like to eat a healthy breakfast and maybe get some exercise in before I plan out my day on paper.”
October 2016 volume 1 | page 23
Kee’s final revelation “I think it’s important to keep in mind where you come from, your beginnings. And that it’s okay to make mistakes,” said Kee. “I think from your mistakes is where you find your greatest accomplishments.” Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Tyler Drinnen is a M.A. fashion journalism student and FashionSchoolDaily intern.
page 24 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NINA NGUYEN HUI
NINA NGUYEN HUI
Technique, technology and talent Design student Nina Nguyen Hui and tambour beading instructor Robert Haven come up with a winning, and stylish, combination for New York Fashion Week By Paul Wilner M.F.A. fashion design student Nina Nguyen Hui’s stunning couture gowns were one of the biggest hits at the Academy of Art University’s annual fashion show at New York Fashion Week for the Spring/ Summer 2017 season. Inspired by the “intricate sea creatures – the corals and the color blue’’ Hui saw on her first visit to Hawaii, she executed her capsule collection with the help of longtime tambour beading instructor Robert Haven. Born in Kentucky, Haven is one of only a few U.S. experts certified by L’Ecole Lesage and the Royal School of Needlework in London. Haven’s advanced knowledge helped Hui realize her creative ideas. As her big runway moment arrived, Hui said: “I was so excited and proud to finally be able to share my creations. I had friends and family there and was very happy that they were able to see my work on a New York runway. The atmosphere before was anxious and electric anticipation, but when the models started to walk out, the audience reaction was positive and encouraging.’’ She previously won a competition to intern at BCBG Max Azria and the looks she created there were featured in the “Celebrating 30 Years of Hervé Léger Collection” at the 2015
Graduation Fashion Show. The experience helped train her for the New York show. “The individual looks each have their own attitudes,’’ Hui said of the new collection. “The ice blue and gray looks were meant to exude a calming softer feel, while the pink and dark blue looks exuded more wildness and uncontrollable fun. All the looks were inspired by sea corals and their multiple personalities.” Haven’s expertise was invaluable for the Vietnamborn designer’s final product. Though born in Da Nang, Hui was raised in Kentucky, which provided an even closer bond with her beading guru. She credited other faculty for encouragement, too. “The mentorship provided by Simon Ungless, Bob Haven, M.F.A. 3-D Design Coordinator Terhi KetolaStutch and others was extremely valuable during the process,” Hui said. “I began working on the collection close to one year ago, and it constantly evolved. Their guidance and experience helped me through what might have been an overwhelming challenge. Working as a team allowed me to explore my innovative ideas while relying on their expertise in the industry.” Haven helped streamline the process. Initially, Hui was working on a hand held hoop with needle and thread, until he got her set up on a large frame where multiple
Designer Nina Nguyen Hui is intensely concentrating on the tambour beading process for her dress. Photo by Bob Toy. It sure did. As the models, looking like modern day mermaids, walked down the aisle in Hui’s signature pastel flowing garments, you could feel the crowd taking a collective intake of breath. The aquatic sunglasses designed by M.F.A. jewelry and metal arts student Yolanda Chiu accented Hui’s collection in a hip, contemporary fashion.
All the hard work paid off in a one-of-a-kind look that made the 20th Academy of Art University Fashion Show one that will be sure to live on in the memories of everyone who was there, in real (or virtual) reality.
Paul Wilner is a fulltime fashion journalism instructor.
Designer Nina Nguyen Hui proudly displays her mood board that served as the inspiration for her intricate beaded dress. Photo by Bob Toy. people could work at the same time, and tambour beading techniques could apply clumps of beads to the
dress more quickly. “The particular stitching technique Nina used was very simple, but worked
From concept to reality, designer Nina Nguyen Hui is realizing her dress one bead at a time. Photo by Bob Toy.
much faster when both hands could participate!” laughed Haven, whose tambour beading techniques combine respect for traditional craft with cutting edge technology. “To my knowledge, there are no other fashion schools in the world that offer them for academic credit.” “I teach my beading and embroidery classes basic techniques, then encourage them to experiment,” he added. “My first summer here, graduate design student Maria Koravilas designed an entire collection using washers and other metal parts in conjunction with other highly textural elements to embellish them. The following summer, two classmates and myself spent the entire summer using the tambour technique to embellish the collection.” “The result was breathtaking,” he added. “That was seven years ago, and her collection is still referenced by the fashion school faculty. I think Nina’s collection will have that same impact on both the fashion show, and the institution.”
Photo by Bob Toy.
Leading U.S. tambour beading expert Robert Haven is all smiles while sharing constructive feedback with the School of Fashion students during the popular tambour beading class. Photo by Bob Toy.
Photo by Bob Toy.
Photo by Bob Toy.
October 2016 volume 1 | page 25
page 26 | October 2016 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
An ode to the ’90s and the celebration of individuality at NYFW By Kahea Montgomery
Beauty no longer requires sacrifice. With the roaring hum of blow-dryers in their ears and the chattering of hair and makeup artists fussing busily over them, runway models with relaxed demeanors spent their time texting and checking
Instagram accounts on their mobile phones, while Victor Cembellin, MAC Pro senior makeup artist and head of makeup at Academy of Art University’s Graduate Fashion Show that took place at New York Fashion Week on Sept.10, could be heard shouting praise: “David, that highlight is looking amazing!”
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY beauty loves drama There was a sudden, but calculated switch-up in hairstyling concepts that kept the head of Aveda’s hairstyling team, Jon Reyman, working up to the final moments before the show. “We often do very strong hair and makeup looks. We had created this really big texture that was edgy and strong…but the [test] model had tried on a number of the different clothes and it didn’t
fit the rest of the collection. So we tried something new, and what we did [for the runway] was different. We gave the hair a little bit of texture so that it wasn’t too clean or too fresh, but still young, and nuanced and curated…yet specific,” explained Reyman. Inspired by the minimalist makeup looks created by the makeup team, Reyman revamped the hairstyling concept in record-breaking time. Almost, as if by magic, tresses de-frizzed and flya-
ways vanished as the Aveda hairstylists aligned with the new vision like clockwork. It was inspiring to see their professionalism under pressure, skill and efficiency, especially on the part of Reyman, as he scooped up a pair of shears to fine-tune a model’s hair into a precision-perfect, runwayready cut. Yes, it might be a cliché, but the show will and always must go on. As the music echoed through the darkened hall and
Left: Backstage at Academy of Art University’s Spring/Summer 2017 show at New York Fashion Week. Makeup by Victor Cembellin, MAC Pro senior artist, and MAC Pro team. Right: MAC Pro Senior Artist Victor Cembellin readying one of the models backstage at New York Fashion Week. Photos by Getty Images.
beauty was everywhere It was scattered across an expansive black and white canvas of makeup bags, fluffy brushes and orphaned water bottles and manifested in bursts of colorful lipstick tubes in sugary pinks and cheerful tangerines. Further peppering the fray were eyeshadow palettes and paint pots in warm nudes and neutral browns.
Under the direction of Cembellin’s seasoned seven-year collaboration with the Academy’s School of Fashion, the MAC Pro cosmetics team worked together in complete synchronicity, orchestrating look after look of young and naturally beautiful girls. Cembellin had a vision. In a lulling moment, between a water break and a quick bite of his pesto sandwich, I approached Cembellin to learn more
October 2016 volume 1 | page 27
about the makeup looks he designed for the show. “One of the main inspirations were these great Richard Avedon shoots for Versace back in the ’90s when Kate Moss was first discovered. That was the anchor, the grounding point of where we started with the makeup. What we’re trying to do with the girls is to create this newly-born, sporty, young, not-too-grown up look,” said Cembellin.
Models backstage at New York Fashion Week. Photo by John Perez.
One of the models backstage at New York Fashion Week. Hair Design by Jon Reyman, Aveda hairstylist, and Aveda team. Photo by Tori Repp.
the lights beamed down at the runway, an almost audible gasp for air echoed through the venue in anticipation of the first model turning the corner. Was it a sign of relief from friends and family for the students’ success or was it a sign of excitement from the industry of seeing something truly fresh during NYFW? Hairstylists and makeup artists backstage huddled around a monitor. The mood was somewhat bittersweet as the models took to the catwalk for their closing pro-
One of the models backstage at New York Fashion Week. Makeup by Victor Cembellin, MAC Pro senior artist, MAC Pro team. Photo by Getty Images.
beauty has its own vocabulary Jon Reyman, Aveda hairstylist, is putting his magic touch on a model’s hair backstage. Photo by Getty Images.
One of the models backstage at New York Fashion Week. Hair Design by Jon Reyman, Aveda hairstylist, and Aveda team. Photo by Tori Repp.
Makeup artists first channeled their magic through the eyes. MAC’s mocha-grey paint pot “Groundwork” provided the base on which the rest of the eye look was built. Eyelashes sans eyeliner and mascara further amplified a youthful, innocent makeup style while MAC Studio Eye Gloss in clear sealed the makeup eye design with thick, ultra-shiny and lacquered eyelids. While the eyes were setting, the focus turned to lips; a charming combination of MAC’s tangerine-pink Patentpolish lip pencils in the colors “Teen Dream” and “Clever” gave lips a girlish glow with a posh and hydrated finish. I was spellbound. As
a fellow makeup enthusiast, I couldn’t wait to try all of the products on myself. With any makeup routine, the crowning glory lies in the skin. “It’s a skin story… rather than contouring which has been this massive trend, for runway, the lights hitting things that glow off the top of cheekbones tend to be more interesting,” said Cembellin. MAC’s Cream Colour Base formula in the colors “Pearl” and “Shell” applied to the higher planes of the face, artfully combined with MAC’s Sculpting Powder in “Bone Beige” placed under the cheekbones to bring out lightly flushed cheeks and give skin a dewy and supple radiance; the result was a revival of youth and an aura of naturally beautiful skin.
One of the models being prepped by MAC Pro Senior Artist Victor Cembellin of the MAC Pro team. Photo by John Perez.
cession. The realization sets in for the artists backstage that the hours of work poured into the beautiful faces and perfect hair of their model canvases are nearing their finale. As the day ended, I couldn’t resist drawing one key parallel: the cycle of fashion weeks and shows from season to season is actually not unlike a beauty routine itself.
Kahea Montgomery is a M.A. fashion journalism student and Fashion School Daily intern.
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