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TRENDS AUTUMN/WINTER 2007-2008 OVERVIEW
Modern is THE buzzword for the season, colouring both silhouette and consumer attitude as we start to look forward with a note of positive optimism rather than bury ourselves in the security blanket of the past. This new confident mood is manifesting itself for next winter with a change in silhouette direction – the importance of shape and underplayed styling, replaces extraneous decoration and detailing. We can expect to see the current trend for chic dressed-up looks evolving into next winter with clean minimal silhouettes looking sharp and contemporary but more importantly, we are seeing a relaxed dress code starting to creep in that swings the fashion barometer towards a new casual way of dressing. This new look has its roots in functional sportswear, comfortable unstructured layers and a new sense of rusticity born out of the consumer’s growing environmental ideology. But running throughout is an ultimate sense of modernism, be it through redefined silhouette, revamped proportions or the use of new fabrications – it is indicative of our current desire to look forward rather than to the past.
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MODERN MINIMAL MOOD The clean minimalism of the 60s is revisited for this mood, with that decade’s sharp modernism given a hi-tech update for the 00s. There is a less-is-more aesthetic about the simple lines and no-fuss styling which mirrors the current trend for a tailored more dressed-up approach to clothing. Decoration and embellishment are superfluous, as the emphasis switches to strong perfectly balanced silhouettes. The 60s were a time of positive change, from the vanguard of futuristic interiors to the newly defined worlds of fashion, music and pop art – all melding to create a dynamism that was at once youthful and full of promise for the future. The Modern Minimal trend may draw on the retro influences of the 60s but there is a strong sense of modern optimism in the futuristic mixes of glossy patents and leathers with fur, or in the clean lined simple silhouettes with their stark definition. The result is a sleek contemporary look perfectly pitched at today’s sophisticated urban lifestyles. COLOUR | Colour reflects the trend’s minimalist approach with a tightly focused palette of winter darks offset with lustrous metallic accents and an optimistic highlight of vivid red. The key outerwear colours in the palette focus on classic black and white with the more directional looks of grey and indigo. BUZZWORDS | simple, sleek, modern, less-is-more, hi-tech
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MODERN MINIMAL FABRICS FUR TYPES | The classic beauty of mink and fox is given a modern twist in this trend when updated with the futuristic contrast of glossy wet-look patent or the sleek touch of metallic leather. Elsewhere we see a more graphic approach with inspiration taken from the 60s for the strong definition of chevron-pieced mink or the optical effects of black and white stripes in knitted mink. The importance of grey as a key fashion colour works for platinum and sapphire mink, while indigo becomes a key mainshade for dyed mink.
FABRIC TYPES | Here we see the continuing trend for tweed evolving into autumn/winter 07-08 with the emphasis on compact Donegals recoloured in red or the looser structures of lightweight boucles. Smooth faced cashmeres and sleek tailoring wools are perfect fabric handles for simple uncluttered silhouettes, while linings take inspiration from the 60s with graphic spots and optical checks.
1I Boucle tweed and flat-faced cashmere add defining texture to the contrast of white fox. 2| Futuristic glossy patent leather is a key fabric handle to work against sheared and plucked mink. 3| Reversible chevron-pieced iceberg natural mink is offset with metallic leather.
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4| Graphic stripes in knitted mink with sleek tailoring wools. 5| Use graphic prints to line sheared and plucked dyed mink with sleek leather trims. 6| Minimal and to the point, simple Donegal tweeds offer a play of texture to platinum and sapphire grey mink.
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MODERN MINIMAL STYLING Strong silhouettes heightened with new design details are the statement of the season and sit perfectly within our Modern Minimal trend with its emphasis on clean linear shapes and modernistic inspirations. We see this as a trend to develop predominantly for shorter haired furs, particularly mink in all its guises, from full pelt to sheared. Styling is simple with no extraneous detailing other than maybe the contrast of a patent trim or a graphic patterned lining. One of the key areas for development is the continuing trend for new sleeve shapes to update simple styling. FIG 1| Here a simple full fur silhouette is updated with cropped sleeve detailing and newly defined proportions with shorter lengths and a high-set patent buckle detail. FIG 2| The shorter trapeze jacket continues for another season. New details include a wide set asymmetric collar and full gathered bracelet-length sleeves balancing the wider A-line body shape.
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MODERN MINIMAL CATWALK 1| Black and white markings add definition to a simple tie-belt wrap coat at BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR. 2| Matt against shine detailing for a simple black A-line jacket shape with contrast detailing, seen here at ALBERTA FERRETTI. 3| Wet-look patents are a key look within the trend, cut into sharp Modernist shapes offset with the soft contrast of fur. VERSACE.
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4| Grey is the key fashion colour for fur next season, updating a cropped jacket at TAGLIAPETRA. 5| Short, sharp and crisp with feature collar and cropped sleeves, the new minimalist jacket at VALVO. 6| Linear laser-cut patterns add dimension and subtle texture to the simple fullfur coat with high waist detail at J MENDEL.
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MODERN SPORT MOOD The clean minimalism of the 60s is revisited for this mood, with that decade’s sharp modernism given a hi-tech update for the 00s. There is a less-is-more aesthetic about the simple lines and no-fuss styling which mirrors the current trend for a tailored more dressed-up approach to clothing. Decoration and embellishment are superfluous, as the emphasis switches to strong perfectly balanced silhouettes. The 60s were a time of positive change, from the vanguard of futuristic interiors to the newly defined worlds of fashion, music and pop art – all melding to create a dynamism that was at once youthful and full of promise for the future. The Modern Minimal trend may draw on the retro influences of the 60s but there is a strong sense of modern optimism in the futuristic mixes of glossy patents and leathers with fur, or in the clean lined simple silhouettes with their stark definition. The result is a sleek contemporary look perfectly pitched at today’s sophisticated urban lifestyles. COLOUR | Colour reflects the trend’s minimalist approach with a tightly focused palette of winter darks offset with lustrous metallic accents and an optimistic highlight of vivid red. The key outerwear colours in the palette focus on classic black and white with the more directional looks of grey and indigo. BUZZWORDS | simple, sleek, modern, less-is-more, hi-tech
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MODERN SPORT FABRICS FUR TYPES | Bold silhouettes demand bold furs and we can expect to see big furs like sable, fox and lynx adding texture and volume within the Modern Sport trend. The luxury of mink is a given within the look, whether in full pelts or with velvety sheared effects, perfect for effortlessly simple but luxurious shapes. Another key trend is to mix textures and contrasting furs together – think a casually styled parka in sheared mink offset with dimensional fox trims. We can also expect to see knitted furs for a more commercial interpretation of the look.
FABRIC TYPES | The mood here is contradictory and offers scope to introduce a sense of modernism when the inherent luxe quality of fur is offset with the functionalism of sportswear nylons, performance synthetics or the unexpected twist of sculptural neoprene. Texture is important too with quilted effects adding that essential sporty touch. And of course luxury cashmeres work within the trend for soft casual outerwear silhouettes offset with fur trims.
1| Luxurious sable is given a contradictory look when merchandised with hi-tech performance fabrics. 2| Semi-sheared black mink takes on a modern look when merchandised with matt metallic finishes. 3| Citrus dyed silver fox looks new when worked with reversible performance fabrics.
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4| Dyed fisher adds contrast and texture to a hunter green patent-like PVC. 5| Lynx combines with an off-white patent and sporty quilted effects for an ultra modern look. 6| Glossy wild mink worked alongside matt jerseys and luxe flat-faced wools.
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MODERN SPORT STYLING Sportswear influences offer a new direction for silhouettes in sharp contrast to the current trend for dressier looks. We welcome the new spor Think rounded ovoid shapes balanced by narrow bottomweights and the return of 80s favourites like the soft draped blouson, the mixed fur parka and the fur pullover or cagoule. Full furs suit the mood but should be updated with the modernity of performance fabrics, sportswear mesh and quilted nylons. FIG 1| Here the rounded sleeveless blouson is given the ultimate luxe touch in vertically worked mink with a soft draped body shape and unstructured shoulderline for a sense of controlled volume. FIG 2| Mixed furs add texture and dimension and are a key styling directive to update the casual parka – think a sheared mink body trimmed with full fox sleeves and draped collar.
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MODERN SPORT CATWALK 1| The classic trench is key to the trend and here gets a make-over with luxe fox trims. BURBERRY PRORSUM. 2| The mix of hi-tech fabrics and fur is a key direction, along with dimensional quilt techniques. ALBERTA FERRETTI. 3| The new look for mink - the soft blouson with sporty ribbed trims. HERMES.
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4| The ultimate full fur parka in luxurious fox at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. 5| Hi-tech fabrications add a modern youthful twist to fur for a sporty blouson at MIU MIU. 6| Rounded volume adds a luxurious look to a simple blouson in grey mink at RUFFIAN.
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MODERN RUSTIC MOOD The tide is slowly turning and after seasons devoted to dressed-up silhouettes we are seeing a new relaxed attitude starting to impact fashion. As yet in its infancy, we see this new trend direction as a by-product of the consumer’s ongoing preoccupation with the environment and green issues. This is not a re-run of 80s-style worthy environmentally friendly dressing however, the new look is effortlessly modern with its combination of sporty silhouettes, luxurious furs and traditional suitings worn in a new casually elegant way. The trend has a broad global reach in its inspiration with subtle eastern and north African influences impacting on silhouettes which should be fluid and unstructured rather than ethnic in feel – think easy tunics and shrug-on jackets layered with soft throws and capes. We can even see elements of 20s style bohemian looks within the trend with insouciant unstructured layering replacing more structured silhouettes. Subtle decorative qualities can act as a counterpoint to the rusticity of the look with subtle iridescent finishes and Midas-like metallic accents adding a strong contemporary appeal. COLOUR | The colour palette reflects the mood of the trend with inspiration drawn from the elements. Think atmospheric or pebble greys and earth-toned browns inspired by dry dusty landscapes or the luminosity of sand. Add an unexpected accent of exotic aqua as a counterpoint to the palette’s neutrality. BUZZWORDS | calm, layered, relaxed, fluid, elegant
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MODERN RUSTIC FABRICS FUR TYPES | We see both long and shorthaired furs sitting comfortably within this trend where plush textures are offset with natural wools, true-knit pieces and clas- sic worsted suiting-weights. Fur types should be soft and plush to add distinction to the contrast of fabric handles – Think the soft velvet qualities of furs like sheared nutria or dyed chinchilla or the longer haired density of luxurious sable and fox which can be dyed to incorporate the trend’s colour palette. The modernity of the look comes through in the easy unstructured silhouettes where plush furs are worked in simple but functional shapes. Watch too for knitted furs within this trend.
FABRIC TYPES | Unlike former rusticinspired trends, Modern Rustic eschews textured tweeds in favour of the modernity of sleek masculine suitings, flat-faced worsteds, shot or iridescent weaves and luxe flannels. Subtle checks and plaids can add pattern interest and we see true-knit pieces as an important direction when combined with fur.
1| Wool plaid and lightweight worsted sit alongside dyed sheared nutria. 2| Squirrel is worked with silvery metallic bi-weaves with subtle lustrous finishes. 3| True-knit and fur is a key combination, here worked against rich Russian and Canadian sable. 4| Traditional pinstripes and menswear suitingweights add a modern touch to plush dyed chinchilla.
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5| Sateen suitings and masculine wools with bleached Nepal mink. 6| Pure luxury with dyed Savoy fox and cashmere coatings.
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MODERN RUSTIC STYLING Here, the look is relaxed and easy as unstructured sportswear inspired silhouettes evolve into a more rustic look. This mood offers an opportunity for developing new shapes like the fur pullover, the unstructured throw-on jacket, fur shrug or cardigan, all worn with insouciant ease when merchandised with masculine tailoring. Influences can be drawn from a global source – the fur tunic or kurta, soft throws and capes, bringing a new youthful but contemporary styling directive to the fur industry. FIG 1| Sheared nutria or mink make for the perfect little pullover top with an un- defined shoulderline, soft tucks controlling volume and easy wide cropped sleeves. The look should be relaxed and easy, combining an element of luxurious rusticity with sportswear influences. FIG 2| We are looking at more tex- tural furs here, maybe sable or fox for a new variation on the stole of throw, tethered with a narrow leather tie. Merchandised with rustic knit pieces the fur throw takes on a whole new rustic dimension while still having an element of modernity.
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MODERN RUSTIC CATWALK 1| Knitted mink for a shrug-on jacket over masculine tailoring at BORBONESE. 2| The oversized boyfriend jacket is a key shape for the season, looking new in plush fur at DRIES VAN NOTEN. 3| Work shearling and lambskin into modern shapes for a new take on rustic looks. RICK OWENS.
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4| Contrast strict masculine tailoring with voluminous furs as the classic Crombie coat gets a make-over at MARC JACOBS. 5| A modern take on rustic looks with a classic tailored coat in flannel and contrasting fur. PRADA. 6| Knitted mink is worked into rustic Aran effects for a soft cardigan jacket at J MENDEL.
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KEY SHAPES AUTUMN/WINTER 2007-2008
1| The new coat shapes are easy and unstructured and slightly ovoid in shape for an instant throw-on insouciance that is both casual but modern. Detailing is minimal, with emphasis instead on a fuller sleeve definition balanced by a sloping shoulderline and low-set armholes drawn into a casually tied waistv
2| A dressier more sophisticated look with an ineffably modern edge. Again sleeves are the focus, with a wider-cut kimono shape falling from a scooped yoke with the season’s essential oversized buttons adding that essential fashion touch – a key silhouette to develop for sheared furs or in classic mink.
3| Jackets continue to be a key outerwear option, with shorter body shapes and neat proportions balanced by full gathered sleeves – THE key detail of the season. Once again we see over-scaled statement buttons giving a simple body shape its fashion edge. A new jacket shape for sheared furs, nutria and mink.
4| The parka makes a comeback in line with the sportswear influences underpinning the season. We see this shape working in all fur types, but looking most directional with short sleek or sheared furs offset with the contrast of longer haired furs as statement sleeves or trim details.
5| A totally new silhouette this season sees menswear influences come to the fore with the easy boyfriend jacket offering a sense of softly structured volume. Shoulderlines are strongly defined, making this a directional new look after seasons of ladylike couture styling – a forward jacket shape for sheared furs.
6| Volume is the buzzword here with a new rounded, sleeveless blouson/cagoule shape. The look is youthful and modern and we see this working as part of the season’s sportswear looks, with easy zipthrough styling and an exaggerated shoulderline offering a new casual approach to fur. AUTUMN/WINTER 2007-2008