Publisher’s Note

Remember back in the day when pizza was a rarity? I might be dating myself here, but I’m talking about those lucky times when we found ourselves at Pizza Hut, pouring from a pitcher of soda while waiting for a long hour before the fresh pie would arrive, nestled inside a sizzling-hot pan with a wood-handled spatula sticking out. Good times, indeed.

Guess what? Today’s pizza is even better, probably because it’s everywhere, and—dare I say—it’s much better than it was in my childhood. That’s certainly the case in ABQ, where we’re lucky to have more than four dozen pizzerias (some with multiple locations), many connected by a half-century legacy of families and pie-makers.

We figured it was time for an updated round-up of all the pizza joints in our metro area. So, we (ahem) assigned ourselves the task of going to each location to watch the dough being tossed, to take notes and check menus, to sample slice upon slice, and to photograph most of our journey.

And if you think pizza places are all alike, you’re dead wrong. We found amazing toppings (smoked salmon, sesame seeds, honey) and exotic crust styles (blue corn, basil pesto, deep fried). Plus, some of the origin stories are absolutely amazing, such as how the Mario’s Pizza family came to ABQ on vacay—and moved here because the climate reminded them of their native Sicily. That was more than 50 years ago, and the Mario’s chain continues to thrive with four locations. There’s also the tale of Luigi Napolitano, who opened a pizza shop after his mom, Tina, immigrated from Italy—because he wanted to work with her. Today, Luigi’s Ristorante & Pizzeria is a longtime neighborhood favorite in the North Valley. For more fun, grab a slice from our self-dubbed “pizza tour,” which begins on page 82. Andiamo!

And while this month’s feature story is meant to be uplifting, it comes with a sad sidenote: the recent tragic death of Rosario Zito, the beloved and longtime owner of Giovanni’s Pizzeria. As we were putting together this issue, numerous pizza shop owners mentioned him and the sadness they feel in having lost a good friend—something Zito was to so many people in ABQ.

I met Rosario only once, and it was memorable. I was having lunch at Twin Peaks Restaurant with former ABQ Thunderbirds basketball coach John Coffino. Coffino, a fast-talking Bronx native, said he wanted something off-menu, so he called his buddy, who happened to own a pizzeria, and asked him to bring us a pie. About a half-hour later, Rosario walks in carrying a pizza box as big as his smile. I’m thinking, He’s not allowed to bring food into a restaurant, is he? No matter, because of course Rosario was good buddies with the Twin Peaks manager! The four of us sat and ate the delicious Giovanni’s pie while surrounding diners stared at us in disbelief and amusement. And Rosario was the life of the occasion, telling great stories, giving away slices, and keeping everyone entertained. He was among the nicest people I’ve ever met, and I know he’ll be missed greatly by many, many people.

With the blessing and help of Rosario’s widow, Dana Zito, we put together a remembrance on page 94, including thoughts from some of those closest to him. Addio, Rosario.

We hope you enjoy this issue of ATM. We’re already working on the next one for you!

Sincerely,

Larryl Lynch Publisher