SEYCHELLES, NaturE Flora & Fauna

Most travellers identify the Seychelles Islands with unsurpassed natural beauty and exoticism without being aware that these islands still, in many cases, slumbering in their first innocence since the dawn of Time, are home to staggering degrees of diversity and uniqueness when it comes to the species of flora and fauna to which they are home.

The islands of this sparkling archipelago, all but lost in the immensity of the western Indian Ocean, have been eloquently described as a chain of Noah’s Arks harbouring a treasure trove of natural treasures that have survived thanks to the islands’ remote location and also to their intrinsically benign nature, far from the cyclone belt and extremes of weather. The first written accounts that come down to us from, for example, John Jourdain on his 1604 expedition under British captain Sharpeigh, describe the abundance and richness of nature on these islands they briefly visited by way of abundant timber, fowl, fish, coconuts, tortoises and even the crocodiles they came across in huge numbers, but which have since been hunted to extinction. Indeed, one of the earliest names bequeathed to Mahé, the main island, by the early French settlers was Isle of Abundance.

Still, today, this epithet is well-deserved because the still largely pristine state of many of its islands harbour many extraordinary species of flora and fauna found nowhere else except in these remote island sanctuaries.

There can be nothing so iconic of the Seychelles Islands than the wondrous coco-de-mer, Lodoicea maldivica, the world’s heaviest seed that falls from ancient, towering palms hiding in an ancient valley on the island of Praslin that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Long before its somewhat late discovery following the settlement of the islands in the mid-eighteenth century, the coco-de-mer nut intrigued the inhabitants of the various countries upon whose shores it washed up as the fruit of some mysterious tree growing beneath the waves.

The reputation of Seychelles’ amazing nut was further boosted by a visit of General Gordon of Khartoum, otherwise known as Chinese Gordon, who visited the islands on a military mission in 1881. Clearly fascinated by the suggestively-shaped nut, in a manuscript he depicted Praslin Island as the Garden of Eden and the coco-de-mer as the Tree of Knowledge.

Today, the 46-acre Vallée de Mai is an eloquent reminder of how Praslin must have looked in antiquity. Palms have been known to reach over

100 feet in height and the shade created by their giant, overlapping fronds still creates an ambiance of eternal twilight through which flit such visitors as the super-rare Seychelles Black Parrot, another endemic treasure of Seychelles. The Vallée de Mai is a not-to-be-missed treat on your adventures through the islands.

Besides the coco-de-mer, once prevalent on at least six islands but now very largely confined to Praslin, Seychelles’ flora contains over 1,000 species of plant of which about 250 occur naturally and 80 are endemic and found nowhere else on earth. Endemic plants and animals are more prevalent on the granitic islands than elsewhere. This is because of the ancient geological history and greater altitude of these islands, which allows for higher rainfall and a diversity of habitats.

In sheltered river estuaries around the coasts grow mangrove trees, adapted to tolerate salty water and the low oxygen levels of estuary mud. Their amazing ‘breathing’ roots form a maze of archways and narrow pillars, amongst which crabs, young fish and a wide variety of other organisms thrive.

Many beaches are still fringed with native trees, bushes and creepers, such as takamaka Calophyllum inophyllum, bodanmyen Terminalia catappa, vouloutye Scaevola sericea and beach morning glory Ipomoea pes-caprae. These plants help to protect the coastline.

Further inland, the flat coastal ‘plateau’ is the previous site of coconut plantations that were once the mainstay of the islands’ economy. Originally covered with forest and freshwater marsh, much of this flat land is now given over to housing and agriculture. However, there is a wealth of introduced decorative bushes and flowers, such as frangipani, hibiscus and bougainvillea, adorning gardens and roadsides, and tropical fruit trees producing abundant and delicious mangoes, star fruit, golden apples and many others.

The mountain slopes which form the major part of the granitic islands are clothed with forest, which remains lush and green throughout the year. Although the forest has been much altered by human activities, the variety of endemic and indigenous plant species is high. Notable amongst these are trees such as bwa rouz, Dilennia ferruginea, with heavily ribbed leaves, bwa sagay (the Seychelles’ ebony), Diospyros seychellarum, shrubs such as kafe maron gran fey, Paragenipa wrightii, and herbs such as pti koko maron, Hypoxidia rhizophylla. Also to be found are introduced spice trees such as cinnamon, clove and nutmeg.

A very special vegetation occupies the large expanses of granite rock known as ‘glacis’. Conditions here are harsh and soil lies in small pockets between the rocks. Most plants have thick leathery leaves to reduce the loss of water. A rare sight is the ancient jellyfish tree, Medusagyne oppositifolia, whose brown parasol-shaped fruits resemble jellyfish and whose rediscovery in 1970 caused a sensation. Somewhat easier to see is the carnivorous pitcher plant Nepenthes pervillei, with little lidded pots at the ends of its leaves, in which insects are trapped, digested and absorbed, adding welcome nutrients to pitcher plant’s ‘diet’. Also easier to see is the Seychelles vanilla orchid, Vanilla phalaenopsis, with its thick leafless green stems and beautiful white flower. Mist forest is found only above about 600 metres on the islands of Mahé and Silhouette. The mountain tops are frequently covered with cloud and humidity is high. Moisture-loving plants abound and trees are draped with mosses, ferns and tiny orchids. Pyramids of stilt roots support several vacoas, Pandanus spp., and one of the palms, Verschaffeltia splendida. Another typical tree is kapisen, Northea hornei, so-named because the large seed resembles the cowled head of a capuchin monk. The silent and eerie dankness of the forest is pierced only by the calls of endemic frogs, truly a special world of its own.

Although there is a range of walks available to hikers seeking a great introduction to these natural treasures of the islands, the ones below on Mahé are highly recommended. Excellent walks are also possible on Praslin and La Digue as well as on just about every island you might care to mention.

Morne Blanc

This 90-minute trail is a continuous climb from a high starting point in the Morne Seychellois National Park to the top of a prominent mountain of west Mahé, characterized by cloud forest but commanding extraordinary views. First passing through a tea plantation the trail encounters an interesting patch of endemic Vacoa plants as well as Capucin and Latanier. Higher up, one encounters Cinnamon forest, Jackfruit trees and Jambrosa. With altitude, the forest becomes moister, encouraging the growth of mosses and ferns which, together with sang dragon trees and bird nest ferns accompany the walker to the summit and to the spectacular views it offers. This trail offers the chance to see one of the tiniest frogs in the world as well as birdlife in the form of Seychelles’ Bulbuls, Mynahs and Sunbirds.

Copolia

This one-and-a-half-hour route, which commences at Val Riche, about 6km south from Victoria, offers stunning views from the summit of Copolia, accessed through Takamaka woodland, Cinnamon forest with Rubber trees featuring a variety of endemic palms and other endemic plants. Seychelles Bulbuls are common birds found here. Higher up, the proportion of endemic plants increases as the summit approaches with its glorious views of Morne Seychellois, Seychelles’ highest mountain, and Trios Frères. The panoramas of Mahé’s east coast, Praslin and La Digue are equally stunning.

Dans Gallas

This trail to a place once settled by Ethiopian people freed by the British Navy from Arab slavers, takes two and a half hours to complete and commences at the information point at Le Niol before climbing to a shelter at its half way point that offers amazing views of Beau Vallon Bay and Silhouette Island. Endemic palms make an appearance on the second half of the route as the path ascends into Cinnamon forest dotted with Albezia and tall palms. The elusive Scops Owl can be found here.

While talking of birds, Seychelles is considered to be a birdwatcher’s paradise and many birds are endemic species or sub-species and afford birdwatchers and ornithologists the rare thrill of knowing that what they are seeing can be found nowhere else on the planet. Seychelles has a reputation for having some of the most spectacular seabird colonies in the world and the names of certain of our islands such as Praslin, La Digue, Bird, Denis, Aride, Frégate, Cousin and Aldabra have become bywords for the optimum in bird-watching opportunities. Within the islands there are 13 species and 17 subspecies that occur nowhere else on earth. The largest inner islands each have a rare bird to boast about: on Mahé it is the bare-legged scops owl, Otus insularis which for more than a century was believed to be extinct until it was rediscovered in 1959. Even to this day a sighting is rare with only 85 pairs scattered around Mahé. They can be recognized by their distinctive call, a slow rasping like a saw, which gives this bird its Creole name of scieur. Another more recent discovery is that of the Seychelles White Eye Zosterops modesta on Conception island in 1997. On Praslin the black parrot Coracopsis nigra barklyi is the bird to see. This is now the only remaining parrot in Seychelles following the extinction of the native Green Parakeet. It can be seen in and around the Vallée de Mai, feeding from the fruit trees in the late afternoon, or flitting between the coco-de- mer palms and calling to its mate.

On the island of La Digue, the rarity is the Black Paradise fly catcher Terpsiphone corvina known in Creole by the name of veuve or widow. The total world population of this bird is thought to be less than 80 pairs almost all of which are found on La Digue, in the western coastal plateau among the trees of Takamaka and Indian Almond. A special reserve the ‘La Digue Vev Special Reserve’ has been created on La Digue to help protect this bird which once had a wider distribution among the surrounding islands.

The Seychelles Kestrel, Falco araea, is the only bird of prey breeding in the granitic islands. The majority breed on Mahé but this bird also features on Silhouette, Praslin and La Digue feeding off lizards, insects, rats and mice. Another bird unique to Seychelles and with a distribution among the islands of Mahé, Praslin La Digue and especially Frégate is the attractive Seychelles Blue Pigeon Alectroenas pulcherrima. It can normally be seen in forests from sea level upwards but is most common in the mountains. In hilly regions one is sure to come across the Seychelles Bulbul Hypsipetes crassirostris known locally as Merle whose noisy calls are bound to attract attention. Another Seychelles success story is the Seychelles Magpie Robin Copsychus sechellarum, a black and white bird of the thrush family rescued from the brink of extinction by Birdlife International. Over eighty individuals now live on the islands of Frégate, Aride, Cousin and Cousine as well as, more recently, on a handful of outer islands. The Seychelles Bush Warbler, Acrocephalus sechellensis, has also been the subject of intense conservation efforts on the Cousin Island Nature Reserve after numbers dropped to around 26 birds. Today thousands of birds live mainly on Cousin, Aride and a handful of other islands.

SEYCHELLES, NaturE Flora & Fauna

Meanwhile, on the ground, Seychelles’ giant tortoises are some of the most primitive reptiles still surviving on earth. The world’s largest wild population of approximately 150,000 is now only found on the giant raised atoll of Aldabra although you will still find smaller groups dotted across certain of the islands.

The Hawksbill and Green marine turtle are found in Seychelles where they return yearly to ancestral breeding grounds. Two other varieties, the Loggerhead and Leatherback are rarer sightings, chiefly on the Outer Islands.

Other reptiles include the endemic chameleon, green gecko, bronze-eyed gecko and Seychelles skink. There are four endemic species of frog in Seychelles, two of which are considered unique. The Seychelles midwife frog carries the tadpoles on her back until they mature and hop off while the Seychelles piping pigmy frog is one of the smallest frogs in the world and you may be lucky enough to spot one on your walk through the Vallée de Mai.

There are some interesting species of insect in Seychelles such as the endemic Grasshopper, four endemic species of stick insects as well as butterflies, mud wasps and Frégate Island’s endemic Tenebrionid beetle. There is even a tiny mosquito that likes to live dangerously, breeding in the pitchers of pitcher plants. This spectacular picture of natural diversity is unchanged beneath the waves where the underwater life of Seychelles is a treat not to be missed and whether diving, snorkelling or viewing by glass bottom boat, there are abundant treasures to be discovered.

The Marine National Parks of Ste. Anne, Baie Ternay and Port Launay on Mahé, Curieuse near Praslin and Ile Cocos near La Digue provide visitors with an ideal introduction to the underwater delights of the Inner Islands. The shallow inshore reefs of the inner islands host many different types of Butterfly and Angelfish, Soldierfish, Squirrelfish and Sweepers together with Octopus and Spiny Lobster while Turtles can often be seen gliding in and out of coral formations.

Some sites host fan and tree coral formations while others feature Napoleon Wrasse, Giant Groupers, Reef Sharks and Stingrays not forgetting occasional 10-metre long Whale Sharks, the gentle giants of the Ocean. The ‘Outer Islands’ offer the chance of encountering the larger species of Grouper, in particular the Spotted Potato Bass as well as Grey reef, Silver Tip and Nurse Sharks, Manta Rays, Dolphins as well as the greater open-water Sharks such as the Bull shark, Hammerhead and Oceanic Whitetip.

Enlightened policies, such as a ban on spear-fishing over 25 years ago have created a safe haven for many marine species who consequently feel less threatened than their counterparts elsewhere.

A list of Seychelles ’biodiversity hot spots follows beneath

• Aldabra. World’s largest raised coral atoll and spectacular example of the planet’s last unspoiled environments. Limited access to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Aride. ‘Sea Bird Citadel’ of the Indian Ocean with colonies of Roseate Terns, Lesser Noddies, Shearwaters and bridled Terns. Also home to rare endemic fauna.

• Bird Island. Spectacular nesting ground for over 1,000,000 Sooty Terns and nesting site for Hawksbill and Green turtles.

• Cousine. Private nature reserve and home to six species of rare endemic birds as well as a nesting site for Hawksbill turtles.

• Cousin. A special reserve since 1975. Haven for endangered species of land and sea birds and for 11 species of reptile.

• Curieuse. Home to wild Coco-de Mer and other endemic fauna, nesting Hawksbill Turtles and a Giant Tortoise rearing pen.

• Frégate Island. Home to the rare endemic Seychelles Magpie Robin and diverse flora and fauna.

• Morne Seychellois National Park. Encompassing large portion of uplands of central Mahé. Sanctuary for fascinating plants and animals.

• Vallée de Mai. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Legendary primeval forest, home to the fabulous Coco-de-Mer as well as other rare species of flora and fauna.

Due to its extreme isolation, Seychelles has received more than its fair share of Nature’s bounty and today, with nearly half its limited landmass set aside as nature reserves, the ecological integrity of its islands remains intact – providing the visitor with some of the most unique ecological experiences to be found anywhere.