Art Trails_Amsterdam to Paris_May 2016_ITIN

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Art trails

Amsterdam to Paris From van Eyck to van Gogh May 13-29, 2016 Tour leader: Dr Nick Gordon

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Amsterdam to paris from van Eyck to van Gogh

Overview From the 15th century the Low Countries – modern-day Belgium, The Netherlands and their territories – witnessed an extraordinary period of cultural brilliance. Brisk trade, merchant-based governments, humanistic education, religious dissent and a taste for luxury and everyday detail combined with an artisan culture to produce a period now known as the Northern Renaissance. The visual worlds and distinctive religious and political identities that emerged from the region continue to influence Western art. Landscape, still life, genre painting and the modern portrait were all developed in the Low Countries, starting with the innovations introduced to oil painting by Jan van Eyck and continuing through the work of Bosch, Brueghel, Rubens, Rembrandt and Vermeer and down to Van Gogh. But the political and religious map of Europe was reshaped here too, with the emergence of Protestant republics in the north and the struggles of peasants and burghers against the ambitious Holy Roman Empire. With the glory of the Dutch Golden Age, a vast colonial empire brought fabulous riches and ensured the posterity of the art and history of the Low Countries. This 17-day tour, led by historian Dr Nicholas Gordon, goes beyond the clichés of windmills and wooden shoes, taking us from Amsterdam to Delft, Brussels, Bruges and Paris, exploring the fascinating art and history of the Low Countries along the way. Visiting both the larger cities as well as smaller centres such as Utrecht and Ghent, we enjoy some exceptional museums and galleries, and appreciate the cityscapes that have remained largely unchanged since the glory days of the Northern Renaissance. SOME TOUR HIGHLIGHTS  4 nights in Amsterdam, exploring the cosmopolitan city at the heart of the Dutch Golden Age, with extended visits to the Rijksmuseum, recently reopened after a decade of renovation, and the stunning collection at the Van Gogh Museum  Day trips to Utrecht, with its magnificent 13th-century cathedral, the castles and estates of the feudal lords at Vechstreek, and the Hague, with the Vermeers and Eschers of the Mauritshaus Museum  2 nights in Delft, Vermeer’s hometown, and a visit to the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen to see works by Bosch and Brueghel  4 nights in Brussels, with its Gothic churches and palaces and World Heritage-listed art nouveau buildings  Day trip to the Meuse Valley, visiting the landscapes that inspired early painters  3 nights in beautiful Bruges, with its UNESCO World Heritage-listed medieval centre and tranquil canals  3 nights in Paris, exploring two of the world’s finest art collections at the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay Images left: Victor Horta’s beautiful art nouveau interiors for the Hotel Tassel in Brussels Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring (1665) in the collection of the Mauritshaus The Hague


Tour Leader

Tour Price The tour price is $8,030 per person, twin share (land content only). The supplement for single use of a double room is $2,430 per person. A nonrefundable deposit of $500 per person is required to secure a place on the tour. Included in the tour price  16 nights’ accommodation in carefully selected three and four-star hotels  All breakfasts, plus lunches and dinners as noted in the itinerary  Land travel by air-conditioned coach  Extensive background notes  Background talks  Services of an Australian tour leader throughout tour  All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary  Qualified local guides where appropriate  Porterage of one piece of luggage at all hotels  Tips for all services included in the itinerary Not included    

International air fares, taxes and surcharges (see below) Travel insurance Meals not mentioned in itinerary Expenses of a personal nature such as laundry, phone calls or internet usage

Air travel OPTIONS The tour price quoted is for land content only and dates in this itinerary are from arrival in Amsterdam to departure from Paris only. There are a number of options available for flying into Amsterdam and out of Paris. Please contact us for further information on competitive Economy, Business and First Class airfares.

Airport transfers Transfers between the airport and the first hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights through Academy Travel. Please contact Erin Laffin for further details.

Enquiries and bookings For further information or to secure a place on this tour please contact Erin Laffin at Academy Travel, on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email erin@academytravel.com.au Images right: Rozenhoedkaai, Bruges; Pieter Bruegel the Elder – detail of The Fall of the Rebel Angels, 1562, depicting The Archangel Michael. Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, Brussels

Dr Nicholas Gordon has a University Medal and PhD in history from the University of Sydney. He has taught European history at universities in Sydney, lectures regularly on history and art history, and has led several tours to Italy for Academy Travel. His technical expertise and aesthetic sense as a painter complement his deep knowledge of Western art and history.


Amsterdam to paris from van Eyck to van Gogh

Detailed ItinerARY All breakfasts included. Included lunches and dinners are indicated by the letters (L) and (D). Friday 13 May Arrival in amsterdam

After meeting in our hotel this afternoon we take a stroll through the historic heart of this lovely city which, at the beginning of the 17th century, grew from being just one of the many trading towns of the Low Countries into the cultural and economic centre of the Dutch Republic. The merchants, artists and religious minorities who flocked there made it one of Europe’s most cosmopolitan cities and today we walk along canals lined with the townhouses of the wealthy burghers who ushered in the Golden Age. Dinner tonight is in a local restaurant. Overnight Amsterdam. (D) Saturday 14 May Old Amsterdam Above: The Oudegracht, or “old canal” runs through the centre of Utrecht and the old warehouses now house a lively restaurant and cafe scene. Below: A detail from Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, 1642, one of many treasures in the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

The Dutch Republic emerged from the conflict between Catholics and Protestants that reshaped Europe. Amsterdam became a haven for Protestants, protected by rings of fortifications extending far out into the countryside and by a formidable navy that patrolled trading outposts as far away as Indonesia and Japan. This morning we explore the transformation of architecture in the newly Protestant city, visiting redesigned Gothic churches and a clandestine Catholic chapel in the attic of a patrician’s palace. At Rembrandt’s House, the sitting room and shop, studio and living quarters, reveal how art was made and sold to wealthy upper and middle-class patrons. After a welcome lunch in one of Amsterdam’s fine restaurants the afternoon and evening are at leisure. Overnight Amsterdam. (B, L) Sunday 15 May Utrecht and the Vecht Canal estates

Today we take a full day trip to Utrecht and the surrounding countryside, where feudal lords and the burghers of the Golden Age built their castles and estates. From the 8th century, Utrecht was the focal point of Catholicism in the Netherlands, and although it joined the Calvinist Dutch Republic it retained many of its Catholic values. We visit the 13th-century cathedral of St Martin, a magnificent French Gothic building and the largest cathedral in the Netherlands. We break for lunch on the Oudegracht, a pretty canal shaded by trees and lined with medieval warehouses and shops, now cafes and restaurants. In the afternoon we travel back through the Vechtstreek, the picturesque countryside between Utrecht and Amsterdam. In the late afternoon, we return to Amsterdam. Overnight Amsterdam. (B) Monday 16 May A wealth of art

In the 17th century, Dutch painters defined the characteristics of Old Masters and popularised new genres, such as still life and maritime


scenes. This morning’s visit is to the recently renovated Rijksmuseum, where we see masterpieces by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Ruisdael, Franz Hals and more. After an extended break for lunch we meet at the nearby Van Gogh Museum with its stunning collection of masterpieces: Sunflowers, Almond Blossom and nine self-portraits are here. To a modern eye, Vincent Van Gogh’s paintings seem to transcend time and place, yet they reflect the cosmopolitanism that had long been prized in The Netherlands. Overnight Amsterdam. (B) Tuesday 17 May The Hague and Delft

We depart Amsterdam for Delft this morning, travelling via The Hague, the political centre of The Netherlands and a base for the United Nations’ justice programs. Here the broad streets, lined with the luxurious palaces of diplomats and the well-to-do, spread out from the 15th-century Binnenhof or seat of parliament. The Hague’s art collections are similarly impressive, ranging from Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and View of Delft, which we will see in the Mauritshaus, to an extraordinary collection of M.C. Escher’s work in a museum dedicated to the artist. In the midafternoon we continue on to nearby Delft, Vermeer’s hometown. The House of Orange, which led the Dutch revolt against the Spanish overlords in the 16th century, also had its headquarters here. Dinner and overnight Delft. (B, D) Wednesday 18 May Bosch and ‘s-Hertogenbosch

Hieronymus Bosch remains one of the most puzzling artists of the Low Countries, and his works continue to dazzle and disturb. Today we travel to ‘s-Hertogenbosch, the fortified city where the artist worked and lived. We visit the town’s beautiful Gothic cathedral, and tour the old city whose ramparts and canals have survived three centuries of war. On our way back to Delft, we stop in Rotterdam to visit the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, whose collection includes works by Bosch and Pieter Brueghel the Elder. Overnight Delft. (B) Thursday 19 May Breughel and Brussels

Today we travel to Brussels via Lier, a small medieval town currently hosting a magnificent collection of Brueghels on loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In the afternoon we continue on to Brussels. Belgian cities resembled their Dutch counterparts in many ways, but their cosmopolitanism often took a different form. Our orientation tour takes us past some of the highlights of architecture in Brussels, from Gothic churches and palaces to art nouveau buildings. Dinner and overnight Brussels. (B, D) Friday 20 May Gothic and Renaissance art in Flanders

Northern Belgium was the centre of Flanders, the medieval county that extended into parts of modern-day France and Holland. In the 15th century, experimentation with oil painting and a distinctively new aesthetic

Above: Sunflowers, 1889, Van Gogh Museum The Milkmaid, Johannes Vermeer, c.1660, Rijksmuseum Below: The Grand Place or Grote Markt in Brussels, a magnificent UNESCO world heritage listed square whose buildings date from the 15th century


Amsterdam to paris from van Eyck to van Gogh

here led to a revolutionary style of art. After a talk in the hotel, we visit the Royal Museums of Fine Arts to see the magnificent collection of Old Masters, with masterpieces by Rogier van der Weyden, Rubens and Hans Memling. The afternoon is at leisure, giving you the opportunity of exploring the Modern Museum, with works by David, Ingres, Mirò and Matisse, or you might like to sample local gastronomic specialties while sitting in the World Heritage-listed Grand Place. Overnight Brussels. (B) Saturday 21 May Modernity in Belgium

René Magritte is the perfect example of how modern Belgium combined international and uniquely local values and aesthetics. At the Magritte Museum, we see how the artist’s technical mastery of oil paint and attention to fine detail continue the tradition established by Van Eyck and van der Weyden, and appreciate the 20th-century ideas that inform his subject matter. This afternoon there is the option of visiting the Victor Horta Museum, the house and studio of this profoundly influential Belgian architect of the Art Nouveau. Overnight Brussels. (B) Sunday 22 May Wallonia and the Meuse Valley Above: René Magritte Not to be Reproduced (La reproduction interdite, 1937), Museum Boijmans van Beuningen Below: A detail from the Ghent Altarpiece (Adoration of the Mystic Lamb), a complex polyptych panel painting commissioned from Hubert Van Eyck and completed by his better known brother Jan between 1430-1432.

Southern Belgium formed part of the border between French and German cultures and is notable for the way it blended the two influences in a distinctive new style. Today we explore Wallonia and the Meuse Valley. Our visit to Wéris is a step back to pre-history, where giant menhirs, ancient standing stones, were erected by a mysterious people. At the Romanesque collegiate church in Nivelles and the secluded gardens of Freÿr Castle, designed in the style of Le Notre, we appreciate the varying aesthetic influences of the region. After lunch on the river, we have unhurried visits to some of the small towns for which the Meuse Valley is famous: tiny Durbay, the world’s smallest city, and Dinant, whose landscape inspired landscape painters such as Joachim Patenier. Overnight Brussels. (B, L) MONDAY 23 MAY The waterways of Ghent

The cities of Northern Belgium were the economic and cultural powerhouses of 15th-century Europe. Today we travel to Ghent, one of the leading cities of the period thanks to its cloth trade. It is also the home of one of the most revolutionary artworks of the 1400s: the so-called Ghent Altarpiece of Hubert and Jan van Eyck, housed in the Cathedral of St Bavo. Much of the city’s medieval architecture also remains intact, giving us a clear idea of the wealth and pragmatism of the northern burghers. After lunch we continue to Bruges, known as the Venice of the North, with its perfectly preserved Flemish-Gothic architecture. Overnight Bruges. (B, D) Tuesday 24 May Medieval Bruges

Bruges was a magnet for European merchants, with a major port and strong banking network. The traders who came here attracted artists in


their turn, and Jan van Eyck, Gerard David and Hans Memling all worked in the town. Their masterpieces for foreign merchants would leave an indelible imprint on Western art, as merchants shipped them to Spain, France, Germany and Italy. After a morning talk in the hotel, we explore the historic cityscape of Bruges. We visit the Hans Memling Museum, housed in a medieval hospital, as well as the outstanding collection of works by Van Eyck, David, Bosch and van der Goes at the Groeninge Museum. The late afternoon and evening are at leisure. Overnight Bruges. (B) Wednesday 25 May Antwerp

Today we travel to Antwerp, which became the focus of commercial activity in the region after Bruges’ principal canal silted and its harbours declined. Antwerp quickly became Europe’s largest port and richest city, and Flemish, French, German and Italian styles of art and architecture blended there. The vibrancy of the city is reflected in the guildhalls of the Grote Markt, whose architecture influenced a young Gaudí, and in the canvases by Rubens in the cathedral. We visit Ruben’s house, his grand workshop only rivalled in size by Bernini’s in Rome, and Rockox House, a patrician’s palace where art is experimentally displayed as its 17thcentury patrons exhibited it. Antwerp is still an innovative centre, with futuristic architecture at the law court and at the Museum aan de Stroom. Returning to Bruges, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Bruges. (B) Thursday 26 May Tournai and Paris

Today we travel to Paris via Tournai, the home of Robert Campin and Rogier van der Weyden. The town grew exceptionally wealthy from the production of fine cloth and tapestry in the Middle Ages and its economic boom brought a degree of self-governance. Our tour of the city takes in the well-preserved urban layout, World Heritage-listed cathedral with its blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, and some of the oldest surviving private houses in Europe. In the early afternoon, we continue on to Paris. Overnight Paris. (B, D) Friday 27 May Old and New Art in Paris

This morning we visit the Musée d’Orsay, with its fine collection of Van Gogh’s displayed in context with contemporary modern masters. In the afternoon, there is an optional visit to the Musée de Cluny, France’s National Museum of the Middle Ages with its wonderful collection of medieval treasures from France, Burgundy and the Low Countries, including the celebrated tapestries of the Lady and the Unicorn, Gothic statuary, jewellery and illuminated manuscripts.. Overnight Paris. (B)

Above: The Minnewater Lake is the entrance to the city of Bruges. The lake is named for the minnen or water sprites, who traditionally dwelt under bridges Below: Detail from a work by Pieter Brueghel the Elder The Dutch Proverbs, 1559


Amsterdam to paris from van Eyck to van Gogh

Saturday 28 May The Low Countries in the Louvre

The Louvre boasts an outstanding collection of Flemish and Dutch painting, and this morning we investigate key works by Van Eyck, van der Weyden, Rubens and others, placing them in the context of the French and German traditions also represented within the museum. The afternoon is at leisure and you may wish to continue enjoying the Louvre’s outstanding collections, before we meet in the early evening for our farewell dinner. Overnight Paris. (B, D) Sunday 29 May Departure

Our tour ends today. Transfers are available to those who have booked their flights through Academy travel to Charles de Gaulle airport. (B)

Above: A detail from The Virgin of Chancellor Rolin, 1435, by Jan van Eyck, held in the Musée du Louvre Below: The main hall of the Musee d’Orsay, a stunning conversion of one of the historic train stations of Paris

Additional travel AND stopovers We are more than happy to arrange additional travel either before or after the tour dates. Stopovers on the outbound or return flight are also possible for those wishing to break their journey. Please contact Erin Laffin on (02) 9235 0023 to discuss your requirements.

Physical fitness for this tour Although the itinerary for this tour is unhurried and our tours attract many travellers in the 60-70 age bracket, a moderate level of physical fitness will be required in order to participate fully in the tour. Specifically you should be able to do the following:  Keep up with the group at all times  Walk unassisted for up to three or four hours with only short breaks  Stand for extended periods in galleries and museums  Negotiate steps and slopes on historical sites, which are often uneven and unstable  Get on and off coaches, subways and boats unassisted  Move around airports with hand luggage unassisted If you are concerned about your ability to meet the requirements of the trip we urge you to contact us for further information and to consult your medical practitioner for an honest assessment. The tour leaders may instruct you to take time out of the tour program if they consider that you will slow the group down or are at risk of injury or illness.


Hotels AMSTERDAM, PARK HOTEL (4 nights) The Park is an elegant boutique hotel situated in the Museums district of Amsterdam, within easy walking distance of the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum. Rooms are well appointed in a contemporary style. www.parkhotel.nl DELFT, Museum Hotel (2 nights) The Delft Museum Hotel is a comfortable modern hotel developed inside the medieval and Golden age buildings for which Delft is famous. www.museumhotels.nl

Above: Park Hotel, Amsterdam Below: Renaissance Marriot Hotel, Brussels

BRUSSELS, Renaissance MARRIOT (4 nights) Located in the European quarter, near the chic Avenue Louise and the Grand Place the Renaissance Marriot features contemporary design and comfort. www.marriott.com BRUGES, grand hotel casselbergh (3 nights) Created out of three historic 18th century residences the Grand Hotel Casselbergh combines modern comfort with authentic charm. The hotel is situated in the heart of Bruges, within walking distance of the city’s historical highlights. www.grandhotelcasselbergh.com PARIS, Mercure La Sorbonne (3 nights) The Mercure La Sorbonne is a modern hotel catering to both vacationers and business travelers. It is well located between the Sorbonne and the Cluny Museum, and an easy walk from the bars and restaurants of the Left Bank. www.accorhotels.com

Weather on Tour May in the Low Countries is a beautiful time to travel. The long northern days also give us plenty of opportunity to enjoy the historic town centres well into the evening, Be prepared for a little climatic unpredictability however, there are likely to be a number of rainy days during the tour. Daytime temperatures will generally hover between 17 and 200C with night time lows of about 100C.

Below: exterior of Grand Hotel Casselbergh, Bruges, and a sitting room at the hotel


About Academy Travel Each year Academy Travel organises around 50 journeys to Europe, the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas, each focusing on a distinctive historical, artistic or cultural theme. The aim of every Academy Travel journey is to combine the pleasures of independent travel with the benefits and shared enjoyment of a group. Academy Travel is an Australian-owned travel company, founded in 2004. The company’s staff includes both academic experts and travel professionals with over two decades’ industry experience. We also have our own office in Rome which organises our tours in Western Europe. This means we have direct control over the selection of hotels, restaurants, coaches and local guides, guaranteeing superior quality.

Carefully planned itineraries All itineraries feature a carefully thought out balance of walking tours, gallery and museum visits, scenic excursions, dining and performances.

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Long stays Perhaps the most appealing feature of our program. No whistlestop tours, no 7.00am departures, day after day. In most destinations we enjoy three or four nights to really get to know the place.

Special experiences A private viewing of the Sistine Chapel or the Museum of Modern Art in New York? Tickets to a sold-out performance of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra? Many of our tours feature top-flight events not usually offered on group tours.

Expert tour leaders Our tour leaders combine academic expertise with a genuine passion for the places you visit. Under their expert guidance you see rather than just look, hear rather than just listen and understand rather than just observe. Your travel experience is transformed.

In-depth information With extensive printed tour materials, including detailed tour notes, destination guides, and daily programs, you’ll build up a coherent understanding of the country you’re visiting, not just a fragmented set of facts. These materials are also available in electronic format.

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