PLUS: SPECIAL
A C C E N T/ T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S SPRING/SUMMER 2014
WATCH SECTION
DESTINATION:
FASHION
SPRING 2014 TREND REPORT
CELEBRATIONS OF LOVE!
Gifts for everyone on your list
Three Exceptional Jewelers and a Collection of the World’s Best Brands, All Under One Umbrella.
The Woodlands, Texas www.donohos.com
Columbus, Ohio www.diamondcellar.com
Tulsa, Oklahoma www.brucegweber.com DIAMOND CELLAR HOLDINGS is a family of three of the finest jewelers in the United States. Each store has its own unique heritage, but together they represent almost 150 years of history in the jewelry business. We’ve built our reputation on excellent service, fine craftsmanship and unwavering integrity. That’s why the world’s top jewelry and watch brands trust us. And so can you. A. Jaffe Aaron Basha Adolpho Courrier Alex Woo Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Breitling Carla Amorim Cartier Charles Krypell Christian Bauer Christine Cooper Hill Christopher Designs Corum
Collegiate Jewels David Yurman Denise Robergé Di Modolo Elizabeth Locke Forevermark Goldman Diana Girard Perregaux Graf von Faber-Castell Gregg Ruth Harry Kotlar Hermes Ippolita Ivanka Trump
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jay Strongwater JB Star John Hardy Kwiat Lagos Marco Bicego Memoire Michael Beaudry Michael Bondanza Michele Mikimoto Patek Philippe Penny Preville
Precision Set Raymond Weil Robert Procop Roberto Coin Roberto Coin Cento Rolex Scott Kay Sterling & Bridal Stephen Webster Soho SUWA Swiss Army TAG Heuer William Henry Studio
WELCOME! Welcome to our spring issue of Accent magazine. Hopefully by the time you’re reading this, the weather has taken a turn for the warmer! This issue features a special gift-giving section for all your spring occasions, like Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations and anniversaries. Of course, we offer even more in the store, so be sure to visit us to see these fantastic gift items in person. Once again we’ve put together a fashion section showcasing some great spring and summer trends. Plus this issue features a special watch section and a feature on some of our bridal customers. I hope you’ll find plenty to enjoy. Have a wonderful spring and summer. We hope to see you soon.
SPECIAL
WATCH SECTION
Spring
FASHION PAGE 35
PAGE 49
DONOHO’S JEWELLERS
EVENTS
PAGE 4
1
P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
CONTENTS
PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA DESIGNERS CYNTHIA LUCERO JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
FEATURES
PRODUCTION MANAGER
1 Welcome Letter
PEG EADIE
4 Events 6 Caring for the Community
WATCHES A C C E N T M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 4
8 New Jewelry Collections 10 David Yurman: 30 Years of Cable 12 Chatter: Ask the Designers
PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES CHAIRMAN AND COO MAC BRIGHTON
14 Fashion: Here Comes the Sun Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary
17 Spring Gifts
depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2014. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550,
28 Style: In the Mix
Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;
30 Trends: Simply Modern
Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-
35 Spring Fashion 46 Around Town 58 Perfect Gems 60 Essay: Getting the Hint
BRIDAL SECTION 50 Watch Advisor
686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this
52 Partnerships: Time Trials magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the
54 Spotlight: Hot Watches publishers. Volume 12, Issue 1. Accent® is a trademark of
56 Watchmaking: Hooked on Classics
Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.
2
RING BY ROBERTO COIN
26 Red Carpet
GETTY 1 PASIEKA
24 Gifts for the Bridal Party
OYSTER PERPETUAL SK Y-DWELLER
rolex
oyster perpetual and sky-dweller are trademarks.
donoho’s events
Marco Bicego Personal Appearance (top) Donoho’s was pleased to welcome Italian jewelry designer Marco Bicego to The Woodlands on October 16. Bicego met an enthusiastic group of Donoho’s clients and friends at Luca & Leonardo Ristorante, where he showed off his newest collections and hand-engraved pieces for several lucky buyers. His infectiously upbeat personality matched well with the brilliant gold and gemstone jewelry he creates. Kwiat’s Evening of Hollywood Glamour (bottom) Donoho’s rolled out the red carpet on November 7, as we welcomed representatives from Kwiat for a night of Hollywood glamour. Guests were treated to cocktails and hors d’oeuvres as they discovered diamond creations worn by some of the top celebrities in movies and music (below). It’s no wonder Kwiat jewelry is popular at awards shows and celebrity gatherings—their elegant and stunning designs pair perfectly with even the most elaborate dresses.
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Mother’s jewelry that’s as unique as her love for her children.
9590 Six Pines Drive, The Woodlands, Texas 77380
•
281.367.9050
caring for the community
INTHE PINK OF HEALTH LIZ GRIMM
Left to right: Courtney West, Donoho’s store manager; designer Charles Krypell; Tricia Futcher; In the Pink of Health co-chairs Melissa Preston and Carrie Hyman; and Richard van der Dys, Donoho’s store director.
Left to right: Marlee Matlin; In the Pink co-chairs Melissa Preston and Carrie Hyman; Henry Winkler; and Memorial Hermann The Woodlands CEO Steve Sanders at the annual luncheon.
M
emorial Hermann The Woodlands Hospital continues to mark the importance of Breast Cancer Awareness Month with its Annual Memorial Hermann In the Pink of Health Breast Cancer Luncheon, presented by CB&I. In 2013, gynecology oncologist Christine Lee, MD joined the program to speak about the link between breast and ovarian cancers. Additionally, breast cancer survivors and Memorial Hermann The Woodlands staff Dana Clark (cardiac rehab) and Sheri Fogarty (neonatal ICU) spoke about their own breast cancer journeys. For In the Pink of Health, 2013 was a record-breaking event, with over 1,200 people in attendance and a net revenue of nearly $575,000 raised. 2013 In the Pink keynote speakers Henry Winkler and Marlee Matlin both have family connections to breast cancer and shared their personal journeys of overcoming obstacles and adversity in their personal and professional lives. Since its inception over 13 years ago, more than $2.5 million has been raised and allocated to three primary areas for the Breast and Bone Center at Memorial Hermann The Woodlands: educational materials for newly
diagnosed breast cancer patients; state-of-the-art technology such as 3-D Tomosynthesis mammography, and community outreach, including free mammograms for underserved women in Montgomery County. Partnerships with non-profit organizations, like the Interfaith Community Clinic and The Rose, ensure that these allocated funds are used to benefit as many women as possible. In the Pink is made possible by generous sponsors like Donoho’s. To help the cause, we sold a special sterling silver line of “Pink Promises: Hope for a Cure” jewelry by designer Charles Krypell, and returned 15 percent of the proceeds to In the Pink of Health to support breast cancer initiatives in Montgomery County.
LEARN MORE
Visit memorialhermann.org on The Woodlands page. Email inthepink@memorialhermann.org for information on the 2014 Memorial Hermann In the Pink of Health Luncheon set for Friday, October 10 at The Woodlands Waterway Marriott & Convention Center.
6
This is the box
THAT, FOR OVER THIRTY YEARS,
HAS REPRESENTED THE FINEST JEWELRY AND TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD AND THE VERY BEST VALUES AVAILABLE.
AND FOR GENERATION AFTER
GENERATION OF CUSTOMERS, IT’S STILL THE ONE
9590 Six Pines Drive, The Woodlands, Texas 77380
I
they look for.
281-367-9050
I
www.donohos.com
what’s new RITANI Ritani is a high-end jewelry brand modernizing the way people purchase diamond engagement rings and jewelry. Founded in 1999, Ritani marries the online shopping experience with a network of trusted local jewelers in one seamless transaction. Visit Ritani’s website to choose your certified diamond and select your setting in your preferred metal and her size. Ritani artisans craft your ring in New York—your diamond, your setting, your specifications. You then visit Donoho’s Jewellers to review your ring in person. If you love it, take it home that day. If not, simply walk away. Or start in our store and see a selection of settings before you decide.
ASSAEL Salvador J. Assael introduced the Tahitian natural color black pearl in New York in 1976, when he returned from his pearl farms in Tahiti with a selection of exquisite black pearls. He created a perfect necklace and then went to his friend, the legendary Fifth Avenue jeweler Harry Winston, and challenged him to sell it. A deal was struck, the necklace was sold, and Mr. Assael had introduced a new gem to the world market. Today, Assael is one of the world’s leading pearl houses, specializing in haute joaillerie and precious stones. They supply the greatest jewelers and also create their own line, found only at the top retailers in the United States. See the collection now at Donoho’s Jewellers.
REUGE Charles Reuge established his first musical pocket-watch shop in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland in 1865. A pioneer, he managed to incorporate a musical cylinder and a miniature comb into a watch movement. These watches were just the beginning. Today, Reuge is the only true master of mechanical music, an art that Reuge has resolutely guided into the 21st century. The philosophy of Reuge can be summarized in a few words: tradition, quality, exclusivity, modernity and creativity. Reuge's ambitious challenge is to thrust the music box back into the spotlight with luxurious, exclusive musical gifts. See these wonderful, musical creations now at Donoho’s Jewellers.
RAHAMINOV For over 70 years, Rahaminov Diamonds has been a trusted purveyor of diamonds to the trade and providers of top-quality, beautifully cut large and rare diamonds to fine jewelry retailers worldwide. To the public, the company has been a wellkept secret, until recently. It has evolved from a purveyor of loose diamonds to a jewelry design house. Donoho’s is proud to introduce Rahaminov’s exceptionally crafted designs in platinum and 18-karat gold incorporating not only classic white and fancy colored diamonds, but also polished natural color rough diamonds in hues ranging from translucent to opaque.
MONTEGRAPPA Since 1912, Montegrappa has been manufacturing writing implements in the same historic building on the bank of the River Brenta in Italy. Its Italian heritage is an important component of the company’s persona: that it is the first Italian pen manufacturer. Montegrappa users include Vladimir Putin, Silvio Berlusconi, His Holiness John Paul II, Al Pacino, Bill Cosby, Michael Jackson, Michael Schumacher, Naomi Campbell and countless others. See the collection now at Donoho’s Jewellers.
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milestone
30YEARS OF CABLE
A celebration of inspiration and innovation.
C
able is the unifying element of every David Yurman collection, encompassing art, inspiration, innovation and unity. David’s iconic signature is unmistakable, since this design is a variation on a theme within all his collections. This year, David Yurman celebrates a major milestone: 30 years since he introduced his signature Renaissance Cable bracelet, which revolutionized the American jewelry industry. “With the cable design, David Yurman created pieces that were immediately identifiable as part of a collection by our clients,” says Richard van der Dys, store director at Donoho’s Jewellers. “It was a foundation to build their own collection upon. It’s no wonder he was the first modern jewelry designer to become a household name.” A striking blend of ancient and modern sensibilities, the cable design conveys casual elegance and authentic glamour. Bridging fine jewelry and
fashion through art, it became the bracelet, the iconic David Yurman piece and one of the most famous jewelry designs in the world today, instantly recognizable and an enduring classic.
“Cable is the perfect form. As an artist, it offers me infinite possibilities.” DAVID YURMAN
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DIAMOND STUD EARRINGS FROM DONOHO’S JEWLLERS.
Brilliant from any distance.
QUALITY FOR QUALITY, THE
BEST PRICE ANYWHERE. GUARANTEED.
chatter
Ask the
DESIGNERS We asked some of our favorite designers: what’s next on your bucket list? Listen in and get to know the artists behind your most-loved jewelry.
IVANKA TRUMP
going to debut an exclusive limited-edition collection inspired by the horse. To me, the horse symbolizes par excellence of freedom and elegance. Actually, this is related with my second wish, to keep surprising myself and my collectors by keeping them young and glamorous.”
IPPOLITA
My next destination is Luang Prabang in Laos, one of the most mystical, magical and inspiring old villages in Asia. It will be the inspiration for my next collection.” GUY BEDARIDA OF JOHN HARDY
ROBERTO COIN
I have been compiling pieces of my writing, photographs and experiences for some time now. 2014 is the year it’s all going to come together inside one cover. I have a publisher so the rest is down to me. If anyone who knows me can remember anything that involves me between 1989 and 2000, please send in your stories. No junk mail or time wasters please.” STEPHEN WEBSTER
12
STEPHEN WEBSTER IMAGE COURTESY OF RANKIN. GUY BEDARIDA IMAGE COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY.
I love to travel, and one of my all-time favorite trips is to Chile. I’ve been several times, but next time I go I want to try glacier skiing in Portillo.”
Read Tolstoy in Russian and Proust in French. Roll around in caviar with Javier Bardem. Make my own scented candle with Cire Trudon. Walk the Great For sure on my bucket list Wall of China. Travel there is the bright future for my brand. I am a creator around the world with and a dreamer, and I wish my future grandchildren. to always keep being able to Learn to paint from foresee my clientele’s taste and mood. This year we are Eric Fischl.”
fashion
Here Comes the Sun Hot trends in sunglasses for 2014. ELISE DIAMANTINI
The flowers are blooming and the days are getting longer. Wake up your wardrobe with a new pair of stylish sunglasses. RETRO REVIVAL The ’70s have recently been a major fashion influence, and eyewear this season is also taking a nod from the decade. Says Fashion Snoops’ Lindsay Alt, “There is a very interesting ’70s influence happening right now; I love the Fear and Loathing look that we’ve seen on runways. I think people always fantasize about the late’60s and early-’70s, so trends from those times are often adopted quickly.”
MIXED MATERIALS Just as in women’s apparel and jewelry, mixing materials is a hot trend in designer eyewear. As Vision Monday magazine’s Deirdre Carroll predicts, all sorts of combinations—acetate fronts paired with metal temples or wood fronts paired with acetate temples, for example—will be strong styles for spring.
THE EMBELLISHED EYE
MIRROR MIRROR While some may see mirrored lenses and think “cop glasses,” this trend is taking the fashion world by storm. Carroll elaborates: “Flash and mirror coatings on lenses, usually seen on sport performance pieces, are now being paired with more fashionable acetate styles and feel especially fresh. Monochromatic frame and flash mirror lens pairings are also on the rise, i.e. a green frame with green lenses.”
SIZE MATTERS
Oversized glasses are a tried-and-true trend that isn’t disappearing anytime soon. However, as an update this spring, designers are introducing lighter-weight frames so glasses won’t weigh you down. “While oversized sunglasses and deeper optical frames are still popular,” says Carroll, “they can also be heavy on the face. Designers are using more lightweight materials, like flat-sheet stainless steel and titanium, or carving the acetate more delicately, to make glasses more comfortable and wearable.”
14
FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF RAEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, ANN-KARIN KARLSSON, JIMMY CHOO, BALENCIAGA
Have a little fun with your eyewear. Designers are enhancing glasses by adding quirky ornaments to some of this season’s frames. Or you can take a plain pair and DIY! “We’re seeing everything from cheetahs to rosebuds being placed right on top of the sunglasses, says Alt. “It’s something you would expect the younger generation to pick up, but everyone is going crazy for it. You never know what people will take to; that is what makes it so fun.”
I S
M Y
E V E RY T H I N G
THE CENTER OF MY UNIVERSE™ FROM FOREVERMARK
© 2 0 1 3 FO R E V E R M A R K . FO R E V E R M A R K ®,
Less than one percent of the world ’s diamonds c an c arr y the Forevermark inscription — a promise that each is beautif ul, rare and responsibly sourced .
® , C E N T E R O F M Y U N I V E R S E ™ A N D S H E I S M Y E V E R Y T H I N G ™ A R E T R A D E M A R K S O F T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F C O M PA N I E S .
S H E
Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies.
Lillian August
Vanguard | Lee | Hickory White | Theodore Alexander | Visual Comfort Lighting Lane Venture Outdoor | Thibaut fabrics & wall coverings | DHF Rug Collection
Donna’s Home Furnishings is more than just a furniture store. We are a celebration of creativity. Traditional,
’
yet always fresh, always on trend. Discover heirloom
DONNAS HOME FURNISHINGS
quality furniture and unique finds. Our pleasure is
A Place to Come Home
bringing the best of the world back home to you.
Store Hours
Making a special place for family is our mission. Come
M-Sat 10-6 Sun 12-5
in, explore and be inspired.
5629 West Davis Street
Conroe, TX
77304
P. 936.828.3788
www.DHFONLINE.com
F. 936.828.3789
Spring GIFTS
Everyone wants that perfect gift-giving moment.
mother’s day
Kwiat engravable diamond tag necklace in 18K gold starting at $750
Tag Heuer ladies Aquaracer in steel and 18K rose gold $4,200
Diamond stud earrings in 14K gold starting at $325
Encore jewelry featuring birthstones and diamonds in 14K gold starting at $395
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Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures diamond collection in 18K gold starting at $300
Birthstones: JANUARY Garnet
FEBRUARY
We had our first child, Matthew, six months ago. What do I give someone who’s given me the best gift ever?”
Amethyst
MARCH
Aquamarine
APRIL
Diamond
MAY
Emerald
JUNE
Pearl/Alexandrite
JULY Ruby
AUGUST
Peridot
SEPTEMBER
Sapphire
OCTOBER
Tourmaline/Opal
NOVEMBER
Topaz/Citrine
DECEMBER
Tanzanite/Zircon /Turquoise
Donoho’s Dolce collection featuring birthstone jewelry in 14K gold starting at $500
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father’s day
Faber-Castell E-motion pure black ballpoint $125
David Yurman Meteorite bracelet in sterling silver with faceted meteorite $2,800
Orbita Sparta Deluxe watch winder in burl wood $495
Cartier gents Calibre Diver automatic $8,200
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William Henry Gentac Vine pocket knife $1,500
Montegrappa Linea chrome trim rollerball $475
Some superheroes don’t come with capes–they are called fathers.”
Scott Kay sterling silver dog tag with brown obsidian center and black spinel border $495, Scott Kay sterling silver and kangaroo leather turks knot bracelet $575
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graduation Tag Heuer stainless steel and ceramic Formula 1 chronograph $2,450
Graf von Faber-Castell platinum 2014 fountain Pen of the Year $4,500
I want him to be reminded daily that I always have, and always will, support him. He makes me so proud!� Collegiate Jewel officially licensed jewelry starting at $129
Ippolita spring 2014 collection
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anniversary Reuge Dawn Chorus music box in walnut $7,200
Anniverary Gifts:
Mikimoto 9x7 mm cultured Akoya pearl strand with 18K gold clasp $3,500
1ST
Clock
5TH
Wood/Silverware
10TH
Diamond
15TH
Watch
20TH
Platinum
25TH Silver
30TH
Pearl/Diamond
40TH Ruby
45TH
Together, we raised three beautiful kids. It’s been quite a ride. I want to tell her I always want her by my side.�
Sapphire
50TH Gold
60TH
Diamond
Diamond eternity bands, available in multiple sizes and shapes starting at $2,500
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gifts for the bridal party
Scott Kay sterling silver and 18K yellow gold cufflinks $375, Scott Kay sterling silver mother-of-pearl cufflinks $425
Once in a while, right in the middle of an ordinary life, love gives us a fairy tale.� David Yurman Meteorite cufflinks in sterling silver $1,200 Tag Heuer stainless steel Carrera caliber 5 Day-Date automatic $3,300
William Henry Dino cuff links with fossilized dinosaur bone in platinum and sterling silver over stainless steel $550
Graf von Faber-Castell Intuition Platino rollerball pen in Ebony $625
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Freshwater cultured pearl strand and stud earrings set $100
Forevermark Center of My Universe diamond pendant. Available in multiple sizes starting at $1,090. Forevermark Center of My Universe diamond earrings. Available in multiple sizes starting at $2,720
Roberto Coin Tiny Treasures Love Letter necklace in 18K white gold with diamonds $580 each
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SAMIRA WILEY at Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week
MIKE COPOLA/GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ
CARLA GUGINO at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
red carpet
REGINA HALL at the Hollywood premiere of The Best Man Holiday 26
COURTESY OF SAZINGG AND KUUMBA
JULIETTE BINOCHE at the Cartier: Le Style et l’Histoire exhibition in Paris
RINDOFF PETROFF-CASTEL
RED HOT!
BEN PRUCHNIE FOR PARAMOUNT PICTURES INTL
KATE WINSLET at the BFI London Film Festival Labor Day screening
COURTESY OF CHIMENTO
EMMA ROBERTS at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party
In this bold hue, there’s no chance of blending in.
EMMY ROSSUM at the BTJA 3rd Annual Critics’ Choice Awards 27
COURTESY OF NORMAN SILVERMAN
KELLY OSBOURNE at the 65th Annual Primetime Emmy Awards
COURTESY OF AMRAPALI
JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
style
MIX In THE Freshen up your jewelry favorites.
BETH BERNSTEIN
Have a tennis bracelet that’s been sitting in the recesses of your jewelry box? Think your round, brilliant-cut, prong-set stud earrings look too traditional? Love your grandmother’s 1920s Art Deco diamond and platinum brooch but don’t know how to wear it alongside your contemporary jewelry? Spring 2014 is all about the art of the mix. There is a trend towards updating classics you already own (or want to own) by combining them with more fashionable styles, or adding a contemporary element to those pieces in your jewelry box that you thought were outdated. It’s all about personalizing your jewelry look, which means mixing old with new, antique heirloom with modern, and even throwing in some edgy pieces.
Here are three tips to help you get the most mileage— and style—from your jewelry box:
Inherit This Style
If you’re one of those lucky women who have inherited an elegant Art Deco brooch but can’t figure out how to incorporate it into your everyday jewelry wardrobe, here are a few intriguing ideas. You can fasten it onto an
Diamonds Will Always Be a Girl’s Best Friend
elongated diamond station necklace, or
that was once chic (worn with Armani pantsuits to power lunches or out to coffee with the
linear earrings that also recall an Art
wear the brooch as a pendant on a satin cord (layered with a station necklace if
If you own a (flexible diamond line-style) tennis bracelet from the late-’80s or early-’90s other moms), it’s time to try mixing it up. Add status pieces like large links or thin cuffs and bangles. These diamond line bracelets are injected with new life when worn with
you wish). Or pin the brooch to the side of a dress, and complete the look with Deco influence—a pair with swing and movement. But don’t stop there: get
gemstone and diamond pavé surround on the other. For an edgier look, add a snake cuff that slithers around your wrist. For the more sentimental, layer with a charm bracelet; if you haven’t been filling one up for years, it’s never too late to start. Your wrist is the perfect place to mix metals—white, pink and yellow gold—and gemstones with diamonds.
creative with a double-finger ring or one of those fashionable bracelet/ring creations that extends from your finger to your wrist.
Past Present
Love the sentimental designs of Victorian-era rings, but think you need to save them for a special occasion? Not so. Try stacking a Victorian cluster ring with mine-cut diamonds, or a new polished, rough-cut gray diamond ring from Todd Reed, and the look becomes current and playful. Or go for a garden theme, with a bold piece like Stephen Webster’s pavé diamond butterfly ring, worn with an antique snake ring on the same hand. Luckily, you have 10 fingers and limitless possibilities.
28
FROM TOP: IMAGES COURTESY OF PENNY PREVILLE, IVANKA TRUMP, STEPHEN WEBSTER
another classic, like the Cartier Love bracelet, on one side, and a thin bangle with a
P OIS MOI COLLECTION
trends
s the warm-weather seasons begin, jewelry and fashion have both entered into a nouveau modern era. In two words: sleek and uncomplicated. Still glamorous? Definitely—but more panache with purity, if you will. When models strutted down the spring/summer runways wearing peek-a-boo sheers and cut-out mesh (and even see-through skirts) they looked sensual, but seldom overly sexy. “In fashion, there’s a distinct modernization going on, as designers are beginning to rethink luxury,” explains David Wolfe, creative director of international fabric, color and style forecasting agency The Doneger Group in New York City. “It’s super-simplicity—kind of no-fashion fashion. Yet there’s a lot of cutting-edge creativity. For example, clean-cut sharp angles—what I’m calling geometrickery!” What does this mean in terms of jewelry accessorizing? “It’s the minimalist ’90s back in fashion. But not the stark minimal ’90s, when everything was spare—as in no accessories and no jewelry,” explains Vicente Agor, president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group. “This time around, sleek apparel is the backdrop for jewelry. That’s key to what makes it now—completely 2014,” he says. “The clean lines of the clothes actually let the jewelry stand out. If you wear something exactly as it was styled in its original decade, then it’s a costume! So it’s very important to pair the new austere-shaded, streamlined clothes with jewelry. Otherwise, you’ll look out-of-date—very yesterday.”
“and jewelry looks very fresh when it’s large in scale.” Nonetheless, says Wolfe, “Because there are many important silhouettes going on simultaneously this season, sometimes dramatic designs are needed while, at other times, what you wear may call for smaller, slimmer items of jewelry worn together for an overall uber effect.”
A
FASHION’S METALLICS, JEWELRY’S METALS Still, whether the jewels you wear this spring and summer are singularly super-sized or merely appear large when layered, the precious metal itself is a key consideration. To some degree, all the high-gloss futuristic fabrics are a factor. “We’re currently experiencing a fascination with unnatural-looking textiles. Metallic is being worn year-round, not just during the holiday period,” Wolfe says. “All shades of metallic—blue, pink, green—a rich rainbow. But my favorites are the darker muted gold metallics; I call them golden glamour. They’re very complementary to the new jewelry we’re seeing in yellow, rose and darkened rhodium-plated gold, and these mix fabulously with white gold and sterling silver that’s oxidized to look gray or black.”
SIMPLY MODERN
COLORS . . . AND NON-COLORS
Speaking of black, like last year, it’s the non-color that’s still going strong. LIVING LARGE “Lots of sparkling white, too,” The first thing to remember when Wolfe reminds us. “Remember, wearing the season’s refined, white is now worn year-round. I unfussy clothes is to think big: especially like all the black-andLORRAINE DEPASQUE jewelry with impact is a megawhite clothes because it’s a color trend. And you can do that either combo that gives you a lot of by wearing large statement freedom with jewelry and other pieces or by layering several for a accessories. Beyond black and strong jewelry look. With luxury brands, top-trending categories include white, color runs the gamut, from bold and bright to darks to mellow yellow, knuckle rings and cocktail rings, power pendants and lengthy necklaces, neutral, and nude. And I love that very sophisticated combination of navy long dangle earrings—especially triple-stone drops—and slim bracelets and black, which many major fashion houses have given us. Although this worn in multiples—three minimum, but mostly five—stacked up the arm. Ivanka Trump Metropolis collection layering necklace in 18K yellow gold with diamonds “Geometric and sculptural pieces are very important now,” notes Agor,
Jewelry’s new sophisticated simplicity.
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The Precious Pastel Collection Rare, exceptional and captivating Featuring white, yellow and pink diamonds in extraordinary designs.
year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium, and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter. And more monochromatic schemes of mid-tone blues, too.” ine jewelry has, in fact, led the way when it comes to blues, says lapidary artist and veteran gem dealer Bill Gangi, who sells high-quality colored stones to many leading names in luxury artisanal jewelry. “It’s the number-one gem color every year,” he says. But in the 2014 Spectrum Awards (the annual premier competition for colored gemstone jewelry design sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association), there were notably more indigo, azure and cobalt-colored jewelry entries than in the 2013 contest. Tanzanite, blue sapphire, lapis-lazuli and aquamarine were hard-to-miss standouts—way more popular than in the previous year. You definitely want your jeweler to show you some new designs that highlight any (or all!) of those blue beauties. Other in-vogue blues are iolite, black opal, blue moonstone, labradorite, turquoise, blue chalcedony, blue topaz and blue zircon. “A great color combination is blue with purple,” Wolfe recommends. “In fashion, purple’s been hot for the past four seasons.” Given that the Pantone Color Institute named Radiant Orchid as its 2014 Color of the Year, you can bet that purple passion will continue to heat up throughout the year. “It’s a modern and surprisingly versatile shade,” says Pantone’s executive DAVID WOLFE director, Leatrice Eiseman. (Take note: There’s that word THE DONEGER GROUP modern again!) Eiseman adds that Radiant Orchid is “a captivating, magical, enigmatic purple, inspiring confidence and emanating great joy, love and health. And it encourages expanded creativity and originality.” Looking at the breadth of imaginative new collections from goldsmiths inspired by a spectrum of violet, lavender and eggplant shaded stones—amethyst, alexandrite, sugilite, purple sapphire, kunzite, tourmaline, agate, quartz and lavender spinel—we can’t help but agree! On a final note, it’s hardly coincidental that the Pantone Color of the Year is named after a beautiful, delicate flower. Remember, we’re enjoying an uncluttered, easy-to understand style era right now, one that’s often characterized by natural influences as well as geometrics. Think about it: Both nature and geometry are minimalist at their core. Going forward, well beyond 2014, forecasters are predicting that organic-themed collections will continue to grow, as women (like us!) are captivated by the perfection of the imperfection of asymmetric gemstones. Raw diamonds, baroque pearls, sliced precious and semiprecious color. . . each gem is one-of-a-kind from nature—and completely sophisticated in its simplicity!
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This year, you’ll see all shades of blue—light, medium and dark navy—straight into fall and through the winter.’’
From top: Penny Preville earrings in 18K yellow gold with moonstone cabochons and large organic aquamarine bottom drops Ivanka Trump Patras collection blue sapphire ring in 18K white gold with white diamond surround Stephen Webster hoop earrings in 18K rose gold and white diamonds Roberto Coin Haute Couture collection cluster ring in 18K white gold with iolite, blue sapphire and white diamonds Roberto Coin trio of single-row bracelets from the Poi Moi collection, in highpolished 18K rose, white and yellow gold
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“Socially Speaking” We’re in all the right places. Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest, or Share your experience with us on Wedding Wire or Yelp to JOIN THE CONVERSATION TODAY!
Spring 2014 brings an unexpected juxtapostion of pastels, vibrant colors, embellished details and modern silhouettes. Travel through this season’s top trends and discover a wide-open terrain of work, play and leisure. You will feel nothing short of satisfied when you reach your final destination. Clothing by Rowe Boutique
BEHIND THE SCENES The making of the fashion section for our magazine starts months in advance and involves a team of dedicated people both inside and outside our organization. The process starts with careful planning and scheduling. The shoot is scheduled as close as possible to the publication deadline to allow for the very freshest fashions. Many times, the fashions are arriving a day or two before the shoot, and looks are often substituted at the last minute. Jewelry is carefully chosen for each look, but is always subject to change once we’re on set. It takes a full day to capture all eight looks, and the ďŹ nal images are chosen from thousands of shots. Once chosen, each shot must be carefully examined and retouched as needed. The layout and additional jewelry closeups are done in-house at Diamond Cellar Holdings, and everything is reviewed and revised many times. Special thanks to: Maren Roth and her team at Rowe Boutique, Kyle Widder, KDW Photography, Nurtur the Salon, and our model.
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Stephen Webster Crystal Haze Crab bracelet in 18K white gold $27,000 • 18K white gold sugarloaf diamond ring $26,400 • Stephen Webster Superstud drop earrings in sterling silver and 14K yellow gold with diamonds $725 • Stephen Webster Le Dents De La Mer tassel necklace $595 • Bovet Amadeo Fleurier 43 timepiece in 18K rose gold $41,500 • Additional items on model, Roberto Coin “Y” necklace in 18K white gold with diamonds $7,900
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Rolex Pink Wave Datejust in stainless steel and 18K white gold $9,900, David Yurman sterling silver and black ceramic link bracelet $775, 14K yellow gold and black diamond bangle $2,717 • Roberto Coin Afrikan earrings in black jade and diamonds $6,900, David Yurman Starburst necklace in sterling silver and diamonds $4,950, Roberto Coin Afrikan necklace with black jade and diamonds $14,000 • Black and white diamond ring set in sterling silver and 18K yellow gold $2,090 • Additional items on model, Scott Kay sterling silver and black spinel pavé bracelet $2,775, 18K white gold and yellow diamond ring $44,800
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David Yurman black rhodium and 18K yellow gold chain necklace $3,400, David Yurman black rhodium and 18K yellow gold chain necklace $3,200 • Stephen Webster black rhodium knuckle ring $394, Stephen Webster Forget Me Knot ring in sterling silver $350 • David Yurman Classic timepiece in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel with diamonds $8,000, David Yurman Renaissance cable bracelet with turquoise and carnelian $1,750, David Yurman Midnight Melange bangle bracelet with black diamonds $1,450 • Additional items on model, John Hardy Lava hoop earrings $495
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David Yurman Cable Link bracelet in sterling silver $950, Hermes Kelly 2 watch in stainless steel on leather double-tour strap $2,000 • David Yurman Starlight cuff $6,900 • Ippolita 3-pendant Wonderland necklace in sterling silver $1,195 • Roberto Coin Fantasia diamond earrings $1,600
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Roberto Coin Fantasia ring with black sapphire and diamonds $3,440, 18K white gold diamond cuff $30,800, David Yurman Starlight bracelet in sterling silver with diamonds $3,900 • Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 ladies timepiece in stainless steel with diamonds $10,600 • David Yurman Labyrinth earrings in sterling silver with prasiolite $1,350, David Yurman Cable Wrap ring in sterling silver with prasiolite $1,600 • Blackened sterling silver 28” circle chain $550, Blackened sterling silver slice pendant with white topaz and diamond $2,090, David Yurman freshwater pearl and sterling silver cable necklace $1,950, David Yurman Willow chain in sterling silver $1,350
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Ivanka Trump 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings $2,400, Ippolita Gelato necklace in 18K yellow gold $10,000, Ippolita Gelato necklace in 18K yellow gold $3,495 • Ippolita Stella ring in 18K yellow gold $2,915 • Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $7,200, Girard Perregaux ladies 1966 in pink gold on leather strap $25,600 • Additional items on model, Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $12,500, Ivanka Trump Metropolis cuff in 18K yellow gold with diamonds $7,200, Cushion-cut diamond ring in platinum $55,000
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TAG Heuer Aquaracer ladies timepiece in 18K rose gold and stainless steel $5,400, Roberto Coin 18K rose gold and diamond bangle $3,300, Roberto Coin 18K yellow gold and diamond bangle $3,300, David Yurman black and 18K yellow gold chain $1,950, 18K white gold pear-shaped diamond ring $41,998 • Blackened sterling silver and 18K yellow gold vintage pendant with white topaz and diamond $3,520, Blackened sterling silver wheat chain $354 • Blackened sterling silver slice earrings with white topaz and diamond $1,485 • Stephen Webster Le Dents De La Mer shark jaw cuff $1,795 • Additional items on model, 18K rose gold ring with white, black and brown diamonds $2,145
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Stephen Webster Superstone necklace $2,695 • Roberto Coin oval diamond bangle in 18K white gold $3,300, Roberto Coin oval diamond bangle in 18K yellow gold $3,300, Michael Bondanza black jade bangle $3,300 • Cartier Tank Anglaise ladies stainless steel timepiece $6,300 • Ivanka Trump 18K white gold and diamond cuff $12,000 • Additional items on model, 18K white gold necklace with yellow, black, brown and white diamonds $22,635, Kwiat 18K white gold Deco diamond ring $6,300, Kwiat 18K platinum diamond band $4,350
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our community
Fielding’s Smoke Burger Hughes Landing (artist’s rendering)
Around T own THEWOODLANDS LIZ GRIMM
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s the nation’s premier master-planned community, The Woodlands is relishing its reputation as the hottest growth market, not just in Houston, but in the United States! So many exciting new additions are buzzing in our area. The prestigious Hughes Landing continues construction of a 66-acre mixed-use waterfront development situated on the 200-acre Lake Woodlands area. This “lifestyle intersection” will be comprised of retail shops, entertainment facilities, multi-family residences, office buildings and a hotel for business and leisure travelers. The One Hughes Landing building is complete, soon to be followed by Two Hughes Landing. The culinary scene is spicing up, too. Near Research Forest Drive and Six Pines Drive, the new openings include Bob’s Steak & Chop House at 1700 Research Forest—serving large cuts of the finest prime steaks as well as fresh seafood—and the new Fielding’s Wood Grill at 1699 Research Forest, offering 100-percent Black Angus natural beef from 44 farms, housemade bacon, sauces, sides and buns, all local, natural, hormone and antibiotic free… and delicious! Also, the new Paparruchos restaurant at 1620
Research Forest is rolling out a more authentic Mexican dining experience in a relaxed, fun environment while serving up a wide range of tequilas and specialty drinks and offering live entertainment. Adding more flavor to the Woodlands Waterway area is Kona Grill at 3 Waterway Square Place, featuring modern American cuisine prepared in a scratch kitchen. Stop by to experience their award-winning sushi and inspired cocktails on a shaded patio. Morton’s Grille has also opened its doors at 25 Waterway Avenue, and nearby is the new The Refuge Bar & Bistro at 24 Waterway Avenue, designed to transport visitors to a better place through its spirits, liquors and mixers, microbrews and boutique wines. To keep you looking great along the way is the newly opened Blo on Waterway Avenue. This “blo dry bar” offers no cuts, no color, just WASH BLO GO with seven style choices on the menu. It seems as if everyone wants to be in The Woodlands. From events and hospitality to shopping, dining and leading commerce, there’s always something exciting to discover!
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PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Weight Carat 1.53
ColorE Grade Grade Clarity VS1
Grade CutExcellent
Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621 Natural Diamond Not Synthetic
For over 80 years, GIA has brought clarity and global standards to gem evaluation. A GIA report means expert, independent verification from the creator of the 4Cs and the world’s most widely recognized gem authority.
Look for GIA-graded diamonds and jewelers who offer them.
CARLSBAD ANTWERP BANGKOK DUBAI GABORONE HONG KONG JOHANNESBURG LONDON MOSCOW MUMBAI NEW YORK OSAKA RAMAT GAN SEOUL TAIPEI TOKYO
Christopher Designs
PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI
Crisscut
Generic Round 58 Facet
Crisscut ® Round 109 Facet
Generic Emerald 46 Facet
Crisscut ® Emerald 77 Facet
Generic Cushion 58 Facet
Crisscut ® Cushion 77 Facet
For an Authorized Jeweler in Your Area Call: 1.800.955.0970 www.christopherdesigns.com The original Crisscut ® is a trademark used under license from Christopher Designs. Use of the Crisscut ® trademark is only allowed by authorized retailers.
WATCHES GETTY 1 PASIEKA
A C C E NT M A G A Z I N E S P E C I A L S E C T I O N S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 014
WATCH ADVISOR CAN ANY WATCH BE REPAIRED BY ANY TECHNICIAN, OR ARE WATCH MOVEMENTS UNIQUE TO EACH BRAND? It depends very much on the watch. Many watches use movements (the mechanism inside that actually keeps time) made in the tens or hundreds of thousands by major industry suppliers, but some luxury watches use their own in-house movements and materials that few watchmakers are trained to service, or can't obtain the parts to service properly. Especially for luxury mechanical watches, we always suggest using a brandauthorized service center like the one in our store. Mistakes are very easy to make, and extremely expensive to fix.
How many parts are used to make a timepiece, and how many hours go into constructing it?
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ven a simple mechanical watch that tells only the date and time can have over a hundred parts, including the case, dial and hands. Very complicated watches that include functions like a chronograph (stopwatch), a perpetual calendar (one that always shows the right date, no matter if the current month has 30 or 31 days, or even if it's February 29th in a leap year), or a repeater (which chimes the time on tiny gongs inside the watch) may have many, many more. Watches that combine these complications, often called “grand complication” watches, may have close to a thousand parts, all of which have to be tested and re-tested. They can take nearly a year to assemble. Most other watches take much less time to build. Exactly how much depends on the level of care that goes into finishing the movement parts, how complex the case construction is, whether or not any special techniques must be used to make the dial (for example, enamel and engraved dials both take considerable time and skill to make), and how carefully the watch is adjusted—that is, fine-tuned to keep time accurately. Mechanical timepieces can be almost entirely machine fabricated and assembled, or they can be almost entirely made by hand, virtually from scratch. It all depends on the specific model. A mass-produced mechanical watch is a marvel of industrial technology that makes it possible, for a reasonable price, to enjoy all the pleasures of mechanical watchmaking. A hand-assembled, hand-finished watch with a hand-finished movement, individually adjusted by an expert watchmaker, takes many dozens of hours of skilled work, which can only be done by highly trained experts with years of experience.
What is the difference between quartz and mechanical watches? Is one better than the other? A mechanical watch is powered by a coiled spring—just like a child's wind-up toy—and it uses a mechanical, rather than electronic, oscillator to mark time. (Think of the principle of a pendulum clock, where the pendulum always swings, say, once per second. Of course, a pendulum wouldn't work in a portable timepiece; it uses something called a balance and
balance spring that perform the same function.) Mechanical watches are preferred by most serious watch lovers, and their history goes back much further— all the way back to the late Renaissance if you include pocket watches. Quartz watches are generally more accurate and almost always less expensive. However, a wellmaintained mechanical watch can
keep time to within a few seconds a day, or even a week—more than good enough for most purposes. Mechanical watches also offer a history and heritage far older than quartz watches. Though they're technical marvels, the massproduced, basically disposable nature of many quartz watches makes mechanical watchmaking something that continues to be held in high regard. BY JACK FORSTER
A quartz watch is powered by a battery, and keeps time by passing a tiny current through a very small quartz crystal. This causes the crystal to vibrate, like a tuning fork, and a tiny integrated circuit counts the vibrations per second to mark time. The hands are moved by miniature electric motors. They are a fairly recent development; the first were sold to the public in 1969.
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CHRONO HAWK HOLLYWOODL AND GIRARD-PERREGAUX 03300-0073 CALIBER, SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT. HOUR, MINUTE, SMALL SECOND, CHRONOGRAPH, DATE. 46-HOUR POWER RESERVE. 44MM CERAMIC CASE WITH SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE-BACK WATER-RESISTANT TO 100M.
www.girard-perregaux.com
TECHNOLOGICAL RUBBER BASE COATED ALLIGATOR STRAP WITH ADJUSTABLE SAFETY FOLDING BUCKLE.
PARTNERSHIPS by Laurie Kahle
TIME TRIALS
When watch brands partner with world-class sporting events, every microsecond counts.
Omega Sochi Petrograd
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rom race tracks to track and field, the tiniest fraction of a second separates winners from losers in the sporting world. Through partnerships with premier events, top watch brands apply generations of expertise to develop cutting-edge timing technologies that heighten accuracy both in the arena and on your wrist. At the 1932 Games in Los Angeles, when Omega began its longstanding partnership with the Olympics as official timekeeper, 30 chronograph stopwatches were necessary in order to accurately time each event. “Back then it was the same technology you could buy in the store,” explains Stephen Urquhart, the company’s president. Its latest timing advancement is the Quantum Timer, which, remarkably, can measure one microsecond (one millionth of a second). To commemorate this year’s Sochi Games, the brand released limited editions of its Planet Ocean model and a retro Sochi Petrograd dress watch. When Oracle Team USA won last year’s America’s Cup, its crew wore TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer 72, an unprecedented digital chronograph that provided real-time data through wireless integration with the boat’s onboard computers. Each piece was programmed for each sailor’s specific role, to
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 72
provide information on boat speed, true wind speed, direction and angle, and much more. Yachting is one of many sports partnerships at Rolex, but the brand is most famously aligned with motorsports, an affiliation that dates back to the 1930s, when Sir Malcolm Campbell set a world land-speed record while wearing a Rolex Oyster. In 1959, Rolex partnered with Daytona International Speedway, a relationship that spurred the development of its famous Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. The model’s 50th anniversary last year was marked with a limited edition in platinum. Rolex’s other motorsport sponsorships include 24 Hours of Le Mans, Goodwood Revival (UK) and, most recently, Formula 1. The original kind of horsepower is still celebrated by Longines, which traces its synergy with equestrian sports to 1878, when it produced a chronograph engraved with a jockey and his mount. The timepiece, which tracked seconds, quickly became popular among equestrians and was even used by event judges. This year, Longines continues that tradition as First Official Timekeeper and Watch of the Triple Crown, playing an active role timing the Kentucky Derby, Preakness Stakes and Belmont Stakes.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
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Catherine Palace, St. Petersburg With the luxurious Agate Rooms Catherine the Great commissioned a unique monument to the natural wealth of her country. Paying homage to these magnificent rooms, the “Catherine Palace” Pen of the Year brings the luster and aesthetics of a major era alive in such a fascinating manner. The platinum-plated fountain pen is limited to 1000 units, the rollerball pen to 300 units. Handmade in Germany.
SPOTLIGHT by Roberta Naas
HOT WATCHES
Today’s finest watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to timepiece design. Key men’s looks for the season include stealth chronographs to time his workouts. For women, classically chic styles that can easily move from business to an evening out are a must-have.
RAYMOND WEIL Jasmine From Raymond Weil, the new Jasmine timepiece represents the first time the brand has introduced an all-rose gold PVD over stainless steel watch for women—keeping totally on trend with the rose gold styles prevalent in today’s watch world. The timepiece is offered in 35 mm and 29 mm sizes, so women have a choice that meets their expectations and desires. Each watch features a sapphire crystal and an elegantly guilloched silvered dial with Roman numerals and date aperture at three o’clock. The Jasmine features a stainless steel with rose gold PVD bracelet that is bold yet supple, and delightfully alluring. The bracelet is meticulously finished with a folding clasp with double push security system. Offering both form and function, it is water resistant to 50 meters.
PANERAI PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso Those who love the iconic brand will be thrilled with the Officine Panerai PAM515 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso. The bold 47 mm, 18-karat rose gold case houses the 162-part hand-wound mechanical Panerai P. 3000 caliber—created entirely in house by Panerai. The 21-jeweled movement features an Incabloc anti-shock device for all your rugged sports, and offers three days of power reserve via two barrels. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso recalls the brand’s rich history with the navy, and its brown dial and luminous numerals and markers are vintage inspired. The sapphire crystal is extra thick and features an anti-reflective coating. The caseback is a sapphire crystal as well, for viewing the superb movement. While classically alluring, the elegant watch is also water resistant to 50 meters.
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B O R N
B Y
PA S S I O N
COLLECTION DIMIER R E C I TA L 1 2 ,
Monsieur
DIMIER
7 - DAY P O W E R R E S E RV E , H A N D - W O U N D M OV E M E N T
B OV E T F L E U R I E R
SWITZERLAND
FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE QUALITY FLEURIER CERTIFICATION AND PARTNER OF THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE
B OV E T. C O M
CA L I B R E V I RT U O S O I I S P É C I A L I T É H O R L O G È R E D I M I E R 1 7 3 8
WATCHMAKING by Jack Forster
HOOKED ON CLASSICS
Heritage-themed watchmaking in the 21st century.
I
n 1969, the first quartz watch (the Seiko Astron, which cost as much as a car at the time) was introduced, and by the mid-1970s mechanical watches seemed to be on their way out. But today they’re back in a big way, and some of the most popular styles recall the most classic designs from the past. Watchmaking has been around for nearly 500 years, and for the last century, wristwatches have dominated personal timekeeping. But they didn’t really take off until after the first World War, when their widespread use by officers as a more practical alternative to the pocket watch made them respectable for men to wear. (Before then, they were called “wristlet” watches and were worn almost exclusively by women.) A fine mechanical wristwatch—a tiny, high-precision machine—was considered a masterpiece of miniaturization, and as the wristwatch evolved
technically, especially during the 1950s and ’60s, certain classic forms evolved too. One of the most important was the extra-thin dress watch. Extra-thin watches couldn’t be made by just anybody; they required high precision and care to assemble thanks to the unforgiving tolerances, so a thin, gold dress watch was considered a de rigeur accessory. The development of better waterproofing techniques led to the evolution of sports watches that could be worn by divers, and specialist watches (particularly chronographs), which combined the functions of a watch and stopwatch, began to be made for pilots, motorsports enthusiasts, and were even worn into space by both American and Soviet astronauts. Extra-thin watches seemed a dying breed, even during the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. As recently as 10 years ago, men’s taste ran strongly
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IMAGE COURTESY OF JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Jaeger-LeCoultre master engraver Dominique Vuez
WATCHMAKING in favor of large, aggressively styled watches, but in the last five years watch lovers have rediscovered the pleasures of the classic dress watch. The evolution of thin watches goes back a long way, to the 18th century, when some of the first thin pocket watches were made by Pierre de Beaumarchais (who also wrote the Figaro plays, one of which was turned into the opera The Barber of Seville, by Rossini). Making a true extra-thin watch that still keeps time well is a huge challenge. Everything from the mainspring to the case itself has to be built differently, in order to maintain the ability to keep precise time in a space that may be half the thickness, or less, of an ordinary dress watch. For this reason, true extra-thin watches tend to be made by companies that have been in the business for a while—long enough to build up the necessary expertise. For real connoisseurs, they’re desirable not just for the technical skill it takes to make them, or their incredible elegance (they’re still the only really correct watch for formal events, James Bond’s Rolex-with-tux notwithstanding), but also for the heritage of the companies that make them.
One of the least-known but most interesting pieces of pilot’s watch history is from an even more unlikely source: Cartier. Cartier’s most famous watch is, of course, the Tank (first sold in 1918 and in production ever since, speaking of classic dress watches), but it’s not often realized that the Santos was originally designed as a pilot’s watch, for the great aviation pioneer Alberto SantosDumont. Santos-Dumont, one of the first to successfully build and fly a heavierthan-air craft, was a friend to Louis Cartier. When he complained that a pocket watch wasn’t exactly practical for flying, Louis Cartier made a wristwatch for him, which Santos-Dumont wore while flying as early Panerai Radiomir as 1906. Though the watch has been made in a huge Composite Black Seal 3 Days Automatic variety of styles, the basic design’s still the same. It’s fascinating to note that in addition to being one of the Cartier Santos, original and current most successful watch models of all time, the Santos was also the first pilot’s watch. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Diver’s watches are loved and worn by many who
What’s old is new again. Classic watch styles endure the test of time. Think Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Piaget, and of course, Patek Philippe. intage-style chronographs are, for many, a reminder of some of the most important events in motorsports, with names like Daytona and Carrera representing both iconic competitions and the watches favored by drivers and enthusiasts. Although vintage-style dress chronographs are popular, the lion’s share of attention these days goes to sports chronographs, including models by companies like Rolex, Tudor and TAG Heuer which either revive favorite designs from the past, or which have actually never gone out of production (the Rolex Daytona is a case in point). For their part, pilot’s watches have remained one of the most enduringly appealing of all watch types. In the explosion of interest in civil aviation postWWII, some of today’s most memorable designs were first created, including Breitling’s Navitimer and the Rolex GMT Master (first made for Pan Am aircrews). Ironically, one of the most popular aviator’s watches of all time—the Omega Speedmaster Professional—was first designed for motorsports enthusiasts (its tachymetric bezel is designed to calculate average speed over a measured mile). But it became immortalized in watchmaking history as the timepiece worn by all Apollo crews, and it’s still flight-qualified by NASA today.
never dive, though plenty of amateur and professional divers still use them, as a back-up to modern wrist-worn dive computers. They’re popular for both their rugged good looks and inherent durability. Not just any watch can be called a “diver’s watch”; there is actually an international standard which specifies, among other things, a 200-meter minimum water-resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic resistance, as well as a certain minimum visibility in the dark, and a mandatory rotating timing bezel. Thanks to the rich history of the development of undersea exploration—and undersea warfare—in the 20th century, there are a wealth of choices, including the Rolex Submariner (in production continuously since it was introduced in 1954, and one of the most enduring designs of all time). As with the Santos, some of the earliest diver’s watches may be a surprise. Those who don’t know Panerai might dismiss their Radiomir and Luminor designs as mere exercises in style, but in fact they’re designs that originated in the 1950s (Luminor) and the 1930s (Radiomir), representing some of the first true diver’s watches ever made. Whether you’re looking for a watch that’s rich in history, or just a greatlooking timepiece that recalls the post-World War II Golden Age of mechanical watchmaking, there’s never been a better time to be a watch lover.
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PERFECTGEMS
EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
LÉGENDAIRE NICE
From its venerable position on the Promenade des Anglais, the very grand Hotel Negresco in Nice, France has epitomized Côte d’Azur style for over 100 years. Collected behind the lofty facade is 400 years of French culture and art including works from the reign of Louis XIII and avantgarde sculptures (Picasso and Dali often stayed here). After viewing the hotel’s treasures, guests can watch the chic passing Riviera scene while sipping rosé in the outdoor lounge. The sommelier will take interested oenophiles off to one of the nearby vineyards for a tour and tastings. And dinner at Le Chantecler, the two Michelin-starred restaurant with a wine cellar containing 15,000 bottles, is a full evening’s experience. Of course, for those who come to Nice for the sea, the hotel has its own private beach.
MICHAEL RUDDIN
DISCOVERING NEW WINES FOR SUMMER
When dining at Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in Howard Beach, New York, guests can enter through the front door or dock their yachts at the marina. The menu includes classic Italian food and over 400 wines. According to Vetro’s sommelier, PJ Connolly, “Summer wines should be refreshing and you need to find a crisp, clean acidity.” The 2012 DAOU Vineyards Grenache Blanc Paso Robles from California is a grenache blanc with citrus and melon aromas and bright acidity. Nice for a barbeque. The 2012 Tenuta Guado al Tasso “Scalabrone” Rosato di Bolgheri, an Italian rosé, is blended from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Fresh with a crisp finish, serve with fruit and light salads. The 2010 Pago De Los Capellanes Crianza, Ribera del Duero from Spain is 100 percent tempranillo and goes well with grilled meats and salsa verde. And from France comes the 2010 Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru “Clos Des Myglands.” This pinot noir from the Côte Chalonnaise in Burgundy is a versatile wine: excellent with game meats or cheese, or by itself on a warm sunny day.
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Tradition
A
of
Craftsmanship Don’t trust your jewelry and watch repair to just anyone.
10% Off Your Jewelry Repair, Custom Design or Remount Purchase
You must present this coupon to redeem. Offer expires September 30, 2014
Flexible Financing Options When it comes to important purchases, we know savvy shoppers appreciate financing options. We are pleased to provide the Donoho’s Jewellers Credit Card, one more way we can help make your dreams come true.
CREDIT CARD BENEFITS INCLUDE: • • • •
No annual fee Special event offers Instant credit available Exclusive cardholder promotions
Call today and find out how Donoho’s Jewellers can provide you with enhanced purchasing power and flexible financing options. A card dedicated exclusively to your fine watch and jewelry purchases – all with the integrity and value that have been the cornerstone of Donoho’s Jewelers for over 30 years. • See store for details
essay
Getting
the Hint
How to get the jewelry gift you want. BETH BERNSTEIN hether for birthdays or anniversaries, my female friends (knowing I’ve spent my career in the jewelry business) would tell me which sparkling baubles they wanted their husbands or boyfriends to buy for them. It was then up to me to subtly convince these guys to spend a year’s rent on something they didn’t understand or appreciate. Good news: I no longer have to go through all this. Most of my friends now take advantage of the digital wish lists provided by their favorite jewelers, which they can update throughout the year. In this way, they are able to more subtly communicate information to help their significant other choose the perfect gift. But—and there’s always a but—your guy might not be able to fathom what’s so fabulous about the spiky bracelet you covet, since he sees nothing sexy about sharp objects draped dangerously around your wrist. Ditto for the gorgeous diamond pavé snake choker: snakes terrify you in real life, but now you want to wear one around your neck? Nor will he comprehend why you’d want a rough- or rose-cut opaque, champagne or black diamond. Where’s the sparkle, he will wonder, worrying that no one will even know they’re diamonds… (Last year I spent two hours convincing one friend’s husband that an opaque gray rose-cut diamond pendant was what his wife truly wanted, and that it was, in fact, a “real” diamond.) If you aren’t married or engaged and he’s not popping the question anytime soon, forget about asking for a ring. Dismiss your dreams of receiving a large trendy Boulder opal, a three-dimensional fantasy ring, or a rose gold spider with diamond eyes to encircle your index finger. Rings are just too intimidating for single men. I once witnessed a guy break into a cold sweat when a store owner showed him a thin micro pavé diamond band in yellow gold. Didn’t matter that it was for his girlfriend’s pinky finger, where she already wore several other rings. To him, it looked too much like a wedding band. So my advice to women coveting a new piece of jewelry: purchase rings and more avant-garde styles as gifts for yourself, and start clueing in your favorite jeweler on the other pieces you crave. This season, guy-friendly pieces might include drop earrings in firey opal or rainbow moonstone: something with a magical feeling that changes color with the light. Or consider sentimental jewelry like an engraved locket or pendant. Perhaps he’ll even have it inscribed with symbols or words he lacks the courage to say himself. You know how he feels, don’t you? So help him out a bit! You will both win in the end.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF AHEE JEWELERS
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© D.YURMAN 2014
DONOHO’S JEWELLERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2014