LEE MICHAELS by Accent Magazine

ACCENT

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T H E M AG A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S

CELEBRATE SPRING!

Fashion Favorites Watchmaking: The Next Generation Last Bid for Love

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SPRING/SUMMER 2012

Dear Friends

he spring season brings a sense of renewal, freshness and optimism. At Lee Michaels that means new jewelry and timepiece designs in innovative combinations of colors, precious gems, metals and materials. We look forward each year to visiting the design centers of the world to see and select the most captivating, superbly crafted and unique designs for the year. It is one of the most demanding, but satisfying, aspects of our business – ensuring that you, our valued customers, are always offered the most fashion-forward and value based collections mixed with truly one-of-a-kind and rare creations. We recently attended the Hong Kong Jewellery Show, the Basel [Switzerland] Fair, the Jewelers of America Show, and some of the most respected U.S. antique and vintage jewelry shows. It takes years of experience to evaluate what is new, but avoid what is so trendy that it has no fashion staying power; to discern what is valuable, but not unnecessarily exorbitant; and to recognize what is singular, yet timeless. Our buyers have accumulated more than 100 years of combined experience in merchandising, buying, gemological expertise and knowledge, and negotiating for the best prices and exclusivity in our markets. We hone all those skills so you can have confidence in Lee Michaels as your First Choice for a personal jeweler. When we speak of new, creative and progressive, we also apply those qualities to our brick and mortar stores. We doubled the size and redesigned our Lakeside Shopping Center store in the New Orleans metropolitan area so our customers would have an expanded shopping experience. We added a lavish estate and antique jewelry boutique, a spectacular Rolex corner, and more designer collections. We are currently relocating and redesigning our store in North Star Mall in San Antonio to similar standards, and anticipate an early summer 2012 grand re-opening. Our goal in all these efforts is to continually provide you the Extraordinary Experience you have come to expect in a warm, welcoming and luxurious space. We want you to feel very special and at home with friends from the moment you walk through our doors to the moment you say goodbye. Not only do our brick and mortar stores demonstrate our commitment and appreciation to our customers, but so does our presence on Facebook and our website. We strive to give you that “wow” experience with every internet visit you make to us. We hope we have expressed our appreciation for your confidence, your business and your friendship in the very best ways you can feel, touch and enjoy. From the Lee Michaels family and ours to yours,

Lee Michael Berg President & CEO

Contents spring/summer 2012 B AT O N R O U G E 7560 CORPORATE BOULEVARD 225.926.4644 MALL OF LOUISIANA, 225.766.6000 NEW ORLEANS LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER 504.832.0000 SHREVEPORT 6605 YOUREE DRIVE, 318.222.2929 L A F AY E T T E ACADIANA MALL, 337.981.8071 JACKSON, MS. NORTHPARK MALL, 601.957.6100 SAN ANTONIO, TX. NORTHSTAR MALL, 210.541.9575 THE SHOPS AT LA CANTERA, 210.699.9494 PRESIDENT & CEO LEE MICHAEL BERG C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E R KENNETH S. GIKAS VICE PRESIDENT GREG JOHNSON

BOARD OF DIRECTORS BRENDA BERG CHAD BERG RYAN BERG SCOTT BERG

3 Welcome Letter 6 Recent Events 8 New Website & Application

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI

10 Accent Advisor 12 History & Beauty: The Estate Collection

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R HANS GSCHLIESSER

14 Lakeside Gets Re-Vamped 16 The Bold Choice

PROJECT MANAGER LISA MONTEMORRA

20 The Resplendent Diamond 22 It’s the Big Day

PRODUCTION MANAGER PEG EADIE

24 The Trendy Bride

PRESIDENT AND CEO BRITTON JONES

28 Profile: John Hardy 30 Designers: Marco Bicego

WELCOME LETTER

42 Trends: Renewal

48 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch Technicum

60 Perfect Gems

50 The Adorned Timepiece

Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-

64 Food: Making Magic

52 Winders: Winding it Up

for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or

70 Travel: Eco-Immersion

56 Collecting: Time on His Side

out written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1.

76 End Page: Last Bid for Love

58 Profile: Michele Watches

U.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

lished by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilities other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced withAccent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the

FOREVERMARK DIAMOND NECKLACE. COVER ILLUSTRATION BY DARIA JABENKO.

MANAGING EDITOR JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

18 The Perfect Element

36 Red Carpet

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER JANE HARRINGTON ADVERTISING MANAGER AMY GRAHAM

FEATURES

34 Designers: Penny Preville

VICE PRESIDENT & GENERAL MANAGER MALL OF LOUISIANA JOHNNY TATE

WHAT’S HAPPENING

Recent Events Larry and Alice Kronenberger

estivity, bash, ceremony, merriment, performance, revelry, gala, fete: all words synonymous with a celebration, and in 2011, celebrate we did! The fall brought us countless reasons to celebrate with our communities, designers and charitable organizations. Junior League soirées, a personal appearance for the fourth year by famed designer Konstantino Sioulas, trunk shows, toy drives, holiday parties, plus many more events gave our friends and communities reasons to come on in and celebrate with us! Baton Rouge Junior League members at the Safari Soirée

Catherine and Allen Ward

Lissa Weston, Leslie Campbell, Leslie Berg, Scott Berg, Anita Bankston, Katie Cheatham

Tim and Nan Barfield, Mimi Riche, Scott and Leslie Berg

Erin Knight Credo, Alana Robert and Lauren Fournerat

Kim Dakin, Goldie Gildehaus, Gretchen Varnell

Browsing designs by Konstantino

All smiles at the Safari Soirée

Alexandra Bautsch, Jody Foster

Browsing the latest of our designer collections

Hannah Mitchell at our HollyDays booth

Ira Savoie, Ryan Berg

Gathering together at the Junior League Safari Soirée Rose Wilson, Barbara Webber

Al Steward, Jaquelene Robeck, Jessica Pattison, Konstantino Sioulas

Desserts at the Junior League Safari Soirée

Employee of Lee Michaels and LCPL Bryce Kennedy delivering Toys for Tots

TECHNOLOGY

New Website & Application

t Lee Michaels we always strive to bring you, our customer, an Extraordinary Experience, and the new Lee Michaels website now does just that. We launched the site over the Thanksgiving holiday, just in time for holiday shopping. From the start, the marketing and design team knew that the site required a balanced, yet vivacious product/content mix with a shopper-friendly design that lent itself to easy navigation to find the perfect piece of jewelry. The new site has an emphasis on e-commerce, with more than 5,000 pages where shoppers can choose from thousands of items including jewelry, diamonds, timepieces and gifts. Customers can now also filter preferences, such as material type, price, gemstones and jewelry type. The site is also a great place to find trends in jewelry and conversations surrounding jewelry and fashion. Check it out at www.LMFJ.com. We are also proud to announce the launch of our first Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry app, available through the Apple Store for iPad owners. The Lee Michaels Diamond Buying Guide app allows customers to receive in-depth and interactive information on how to properly purchase diamonds and how to identify a high-quality diamond from other lowquality diamonds. It is a great tool for first time diamond buyers and buyers wanting more information on the proper way to compare diamonds before making a selection. For those without an apple device, it is also located on our website at www.lmfj.com/diamondguide.php

ACCENT(ADVISOR) WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESS PIECES ARE MOST LIKELY TO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece that becomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautiful strand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocery store or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece of jewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark. We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited, jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one item this year, make it special and enduring.

I KNOW WOMEN WHO WEAR FASHION JEWELRY LIKE BANGLES OR BOLD CUFFS, BUT BUY THESE PIECES AT CLOTHING STORES AS OPPOSED TO JEWELERS (EVEN IF THEY HAVE TO REPURCHASE THE PIECES WHEN THEY TARNISH). WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balance trendy fashion jewelry that they don’t expect to last forever with items that they cherish, wear often and want to last. Since a great bangle is a classic that will be in style forever, it’s worth investing in something both fabulous and enduring.

For both ladies and gents, a good watch is an absolute must! If you can invest in only one great piece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylish watch to enjoy for many years. It should cross over into any activity, and should dress up or down. When you have more to invest, consider buying both a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in the interim, one great watch transcends numerous styles and ventures! Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strand of pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven) shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-witheverything item to wear with denim or ball gowns; and 3) a necklace or pendant with personal meaning, like your children’s names or initials, an important date, a display of faith or spirituality. (If you’ve ever noticed women constantly touching their necklaces, it’s likely because they feel an emotional connection to the symbol.)

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ANTIQUE JEWELRY AND ESTATE JEWELRY? “Estate” is a popular jewelry label, but does not specify the period of manufacture. “Estate” is primarily used to describe jewelry that is previously owned. The term “antique” generally applies to jewelry items that are at least 100 years old, the benchmark used by government officials for duty-free importing of antiques. For spring 2012, everything old is new again, so consider both of these options, or try resetting one of your own family heirlooms.

HONORA PEARLS, MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA BRACELETS

WHICH ITEMS SHOULD I CONSIDER BUYING THIS SEASON?

FEATURE

History & Beauty

The Estate Collection

Estate room at our Bocage location in Baton Rouge, e, Louisiana

he Estate collection at Lee Michaels was introduced in 2009 at our Bocage store in Baton Rouge, LA. It includes exquisite, one-of-a-kind pieces collected by Katheryne Mauldin, Certified Gemologist Appraiser and the Manager of Estate Jewelry. Katheryne has experience with over 20 years procuring jewelry throughout the world. We are excited to now have an additional estate room in our Lakeside Shopping Center location in Metairie, LA that opened in November 2011. Stop in either location to view our extensive collection of rare and unusual antique and estate jewelry dating from the mid-century Victorian period and the Art Deco period.

Q&A with Katheryne Mauldin Q: What is your favorite era for antique jewelry and why? A: If I had to pick, my personal favorite era is the Victorian period (1837-1901). There is quite a variety of jewelry, because the period extends over so many years. Regardless of the style, the detail work and quality of the workmanship is just beautiful. Q: Do you have a favorite all-time piece? A: That would depend on the day that you ask me. Every time I say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is the prettiest piece that I have ever seen,â&#x20AC;? I see another that I like as much or more. Q: Where do you go to procure the antique pieces? A: Unlike new jewelry, antique pieces are bought one piece at a time. Sometimes we shop all day and only find a few pieces that are right for the Estate Collection at Lee Michaels. I travel around the country to key antique shows and have dealers who will call me when they find quality pieces they think I will like. This really is the key to building a fine collection. Like anything in life, it comes down to the relationships you build over years with people who can help you be successful.

14kyg Victorian diamond, coral and turquoise enamel locket bracelet c1870s American $3,900

14kyg Victorian agate, opal, diamond and pearl earring and brooch set with black enamel work c1870s American $6,500

Estate room at our Lakeside Shopping Center location in Metairie, Louisiana

14k multi-colored gold â&#x20AC;&#x153;Etruscan Revivalâ&#x20AC;? Victorian locket and chain with fine bead and wire work c1860s - 1870s American $3,600

CELEBRATION

Lakeside Gets Re-Vamped

large crowd gathered on the evening of Thursday, November 10, 2011 to celebrate the opening of our newly remodeled store in Lakeside Shopping Center. Guests were greeted with complimentary valet parking, escorted down a red carpet, and then guided to the grand entrance by custom floor graphics in the shape of our signature “little red box.” Cuisine by Joel’s Catering featured petite fried green tomatoes, crabmeat timbale, New Orleans-style truffles, and macaroons. The sounds of a jazz trio, featuring Joe Ashlar, filled the room as guests shopped and viewed special collections by Rolex, Lladro, Roberto Coin and Ippolita. A ribbon cutting ceremony featured the Berg family, company vice-presidents, and special guests, Brad Grundmeyer, Chairman of the Jefferson Chamber of Commerce, and John Young, Parish President. The event was a huge success and each guest received custom red and black candies as they left. Pictured above from left to right: Leslie Berg, José Awill, Scott Berg, Brenda Berg, Lee Michael Berg, Glenn Wilson, Ryan Berg, Chad Berg, Brad Grundmeyer (President of Jefferson Chamber of Commerce), Ken Gikas, Johnny Tate

Violet Youngblood, Ventress Newport and Gayle Saizon Jeff Cotten, Jr. with Rolex showcasing new styles

Debbie Belt, Creighton Belt, Stewart Niles

Brenda Berg, Randy Waesche, Bonita Waesche, Meaghen Waesche

Macaroons by Joelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Catering

Kenny and Mae Can

Lakesideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new storefront

Ryan Berg, Chris Fuhrman

Ribbon cutting Champagne toast

Lee Michael Berg, Donna Duhon, Sid Duhon

Harold Stokes, Leslie Stokes and Debbie Byrd

Guests received the red carpet treatment

Kerry Boutte, Buddy Butler, Leslie Stokes, Harold Stokes, Tiffa Boutte

Allison Ashy and Leslie Berg

Konstantino sterling silver wide bangle bracelet $1,650

Konstantino sterling silver and pearl necklace with mother of pearl stations $925

David Yurman sterling silver and 18kyg hammered curb chain necklace $3,900

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin finish multi-circle ring $2,200

The

BOLD Choice 17

Ippolita 18kyg and semi-precious stone bracelets starting at $2,900

Gurhan 24kg blue topaz, one-of-a-kind necklace $14,900

18kyg black mother of pearl or white mother of pearl, rutilated quartz and diamond pendant $1,850 each

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin finish pearl earrings $2,000

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin finish pearl and diamond bracelets starting at $1,650

The Perfect

ELEMENT 19

18kwg round diamond drop earrings $8,750

18kwg certified diamond pendant $8,775

18kwg diamond pendant $6,800

14kwg diamond cluster earrings with round center $2,950

18kwg Roberto Coin diamond fashion ring $11,400

14kwg diamond cluster earrings with princess cut center $2,775

The Resplendent

DIAMOND 20

WEDDINGS

Mr. and Mrs. Jeremy Comardelle (Tara Blake) Orlando, FL • December 28, 2011

It’s the Big Day Mr. and Mrs. Scott Sinitiere (Monique Chabaud) Baton Rouge, LA • May 14, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Bob Simon, Jr. (Ashley Ard) Hammond, LA • October 29, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Nicholas Holland (Amanda Roddy) Waggaman, LA • October 6, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Jason White (Arcy Muñoz) Las Vegas, NV • December 31, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. William Bowdon IV (Megan Poole) Bossier City, LA • May 7, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Kyle Wassom (Kelli Neer) Baton Rouge, LA • January 8, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Steven Smith (Megan Burt) Brookhaven, MS • October 8, 2011

Unique Facets Left to Right Crisscut 18kg .98ct emerald cut center $12,725 Harry Kotlar platinum 3.00ct cushion cut center $85,000 Crisscut 18kg 1.24ct round center $18,900

Modern Michael M. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Princess Collectionâ&#x20AC;? handcrafted 18kg. Center diamond not included $11,620

Vintage 18kg sapphire and diamond antique reproduction. Center stone not included $3,000 14kg 1.11ct center antique reproduction east-west marquise $9,625

Cushion Left to Right Henri Daussi platinum .48ct. $6,425 Henri Daussi 18kg .76ct. center $6,875 Henri Daussi 18kg .51ct. center $4,600

The Trendy

BRIDE 25

PAS SION The most passionate dance in the most expressive porcelain. Balance, movement and precision with all the power of the striking colors in the Lladr贸 palette. A porcelain handcrafted at the Lladr贸 workshops in Valencia - Spain.

Passionate Tango 14 1/2" x 14 1/2" Limited edition of 3,000

PROFILE

SCALING BACK JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGA COLLECTION WITH FIERY NEW DESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

irst introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th year in business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragon and the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl. At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, the water dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land and brought prosperity to the Balinese. Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer and creative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Naga collection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune, prosperity and success. Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to help the Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as a collaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “a business can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “Greener Everyday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmental conservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even the black palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s Hong Kong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compound is a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mud structures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for the entire workforce there. The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Bali by these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served as jewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragon heads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Crafted from sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semiprecious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings are rich with detail, inside and out.

“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGA COLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.” –GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER 28

DESIGNERS

COLOR POPS WARM GOLD AND SATURATED SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTION TO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

The bold spheres and jewels of the Africa collection are tangible and pronounced, yet remarkably light.

n the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remained unchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almost all of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’s history. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition between collections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered. “I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season our customers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there are always constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—an emotional feeling.” This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection, filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites as absolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelry wardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspired by unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lava of Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-gold jewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn by African women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth that evokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler and often names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after the destinations that inspire them. When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes the chance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccer league and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors, exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I find in everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course, he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

GETTING PERSONAL

What are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casual and fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino! Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair to debut my newest collections.

The Norman Silverman Bridal Collection

The Stimulus

The Response

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Think Of Citrus As A Great Restaurant With A Fine Hotel Attached. No offense to typical hotel restaurants, but Citrus is no typical hotel restaurant. Our daily menu is equal parts inspiring, tantalizing and deliciously innovative. We search San Antonio’s local markets and provisioners for the freshest and finest ingredients. All so that you may enjoy a meal worth talking about and worth coming back for. Who knows, you might even choose to stay the night so you can dine here again sooner.

15 0 E A S T H O U S TO N S T R E E T, SA N A N TO N I O, T X

2 1 0 . 2 2 7. 9 7 0 0

W W W. H OT E LVA L E N CI A - R I V E R WA L K .CO M

Citrus Restaurant of fers a fresh t wist on dining inside Hotel Valencia on San Antonio’s famed River Walk .

E xecutive Chef, Jef fer y Balfour

©2010 Hotel Valencia Corporation. Valencia® is a registered trademark of Newhall Land & Farming Company and is licensed to Hotel Valencia Corporation. The Valencia logo is a registered service mark of Eland Investment Corporation.

DESIGNERS

Signature Style PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE AND FABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

orld renowned for its elegance, innovation and unique attention to detail, Penny Preville jewelry has been worn by fashionable women from Jackie Onassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, an exclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested in jewelry design? As a little girl, I’d go into New York City every Sunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, a self-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her Park Avenue apartment. It was filled with amazing artwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces. But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box, overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels: exquisite pieces from different eras that my grandfather bought her. I would touch them, try them on, dream about them. My other grandmother was an artist (she painted Limoges china) as was my mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. I loved art history, re-living different eras. Describe your jewelry and the process to create it. Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail: beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture… My jewelry is made by artisans here in New York City: we start with an original model and most of the work is done by hand: engraving, stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending on the piece, the process can take a few days to a few months. What inspires your designs? Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics. Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian, Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…) How would you describe your personal style? What are your favorite jewelry pieces? There are two sides to me: very driven and practical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl. My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a wide scroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tie events, and a thin diamond bangle that I wear everyday. (It’s part of my body!) I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamonds from the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and a blue star sapphire that my husband’s mother got from her mother…

You work with your husband and two sons: how hard is it to combine business and family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we have separate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay (who started the business with me) manages financial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32) and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and will hopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boys to join us: growing up, they were into sports and showed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012? Long chains, statement earrings, bangles and cuffs to mix and match, collectibles, different stones, blackened metals and lots of color (especially blues!). I also believe in the mystical powers of certain stones—for strength or for protection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her? It’s reflects her style and individuality; it provides insight into who she is as a person: spiritual, sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching a woman select jewelry: when she finds the perfect piece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

RED CARPET

Blonde Bombshells WITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE, WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD

ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER

CLAIRE DANES

hough the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it. For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

HEARD AND PFEIFFER WEAR H. STERN. DANES WEARS MCL.

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked like a winner long before they called her name. Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings, stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY

KATHERINE HEIGL

MARLEY SHELTON

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent KEIBLER WEARS MCL. HEIGL WEARS SUTRA. SHELTON WEARS AMRAPALI.

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best. Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

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2011-2012 SEASON

Get your tickets today for the last 2 concerts of this season!

www.artsbr.org 225.344.8558

April 26 | TERENCE BLANCHARD & PONCHO SANCHEZ Cubano Be! Cubano Bop! Tribute to Chano Pozo & Dizzy Gillespie

May 17 | PATTI AUSTIN Grammy-award-winning Jazz vocalist

ALL JAZZ MASTERS EVENTS ARE AT 7PM & 9PM | TICKET PRICES ARE $45 & $25 MANSHIP THEATRE | DOWNTOWN BATON ROUGE | 225.344.0334 | MANSHIPTHEATRE.ORG Special thanks to the River City Jazz Masters Series sponsors:

The River City Jazz Coalition thanks: Verge and Cheri Ausberry, C.J. Blache and Sherri McConnell, Gary and Joyce Dennis, Maria and Brian Despinasse II, Leo and Gwendolyn Hamilton, Tim and Stacia Hardy, Dr. Antoine Keller and Allison Chauvin, Cornelius and Karen Lewis, Drs. Jamel and Nicolette Martin, Ronald and Belinda Mason, The John and Virginia Noland Fund, Albert and Roberta Sam and The Josef Sternberg Memorial Fund.

TRENDS

here are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at the spa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talking about adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators. From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as a de rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such big buzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all of which are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equally important, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned around exhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new to the market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUT When “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as the Color of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in both fashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’s attention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the reality that not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tones of tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways. “But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. If you’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this color in accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statement piece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but I went shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows. Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure of childhood abandon come back into your life.” Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman, for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow, “Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing a lot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without being too out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and great for blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for spring and summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and “Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brown family are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-getting gemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTS

RENEWAL! THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS, NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EM GEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

While classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important, so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs and rose cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models at the 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelry awards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstones and cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit police drama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem on the bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look. Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks to clever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gem slices with complementary opaque stones.” SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K gold Haute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and black sapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much like natural light shining through a stained glass window. Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides, depending on the designer’s individual vision. Helena Krodel, director of media and special events for Jewelers of America, says, “Think about gemstone-slice earrings if you want something lightweight and, at the same time, very flattering; they bring light and color near the face.” ROUGH CUTS These asymmetrically shaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for the most part, three dimensional, almost sculptural. They have an inherent, organic beauty because they aren’t precision-cut to mathematic perfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind. Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry line and president of the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted and authentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designs with rough cuts are a great choice.” ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cuts have been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usually circular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed of triangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. If you’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cut and a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year, rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing up everywhere.

spessartite garnet, red agate. A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This transparent diaspore gem, found only in Turkey, hasn’t been used much in jewelry—until now. With its inherently interesting color-change properties— from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink—it’s certainly out of the ordinary, and the perfect choice for anyone looking for something unique or a true conversation starter. Other favorites: chrysoprase, green agate, peridot, green opal, green jade, green quartz, green amethyst, green garnet, green tourmaline. A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately, citrine has been particularly popular, both for its color and the variety of cutting styles being used on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and often affordable prices, citrine has recently captured the fancy of a growing number of typically high-end designers, many mixing it with a range of orange and pink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl, chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire. A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most invogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new, March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlighted in designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes, aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in large sizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for their engagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea— captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite, sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz. A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more and more by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony is well liked in its blue and green varieties, too. “Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” says Wheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite, pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT ADDING GEMSTONE JEWELRY TO THE LIST OF NATURAL MOOD ELEVATORS.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMS Barbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, she points to five gems she sees trending—especially in light of fashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likely means these gems will get even more popular as we progress through 2012. A TOP TANGERINE FIRE OPAL: These radiant orange-red gemstones are renowned in legend and lore for their positive effect on the psyche. That said, you may have to pay the price for that profound sensation of peace and harmony! Often the cost of these expressive and fiery gems is determined by the play of color, body color and transparency. “Fire opal is really popular in Asia,” says Wheat. With tangerine as this year’s “Color ot the Year,” it will likely get stronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandarin garnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace by Stephen Webster. Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Road collection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone, aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and blue topaz doublet

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621

Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

A GIA report is certainty from the source. As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™ GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific. A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality. Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

COURTESY LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM

WATCHES

FOCUS: WATCHMAKING

by Karen Alberg Grossman

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

he first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone building nestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with a strong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in this Rolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemed principal Herman Mayer. Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, and respect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to develop independent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, of course, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable, well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmaker of today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the highend watch culture,” Mayer maintains. His intense two-year program, established in 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totally separate from the Rolex Service Center upstairs in the building). Mayer is personally responsible for creating and updating the curriculum, which is also used at watchmaking schools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features six main areas of training: history/culture, micromechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer service and case/bracelet diagnostics and repair. The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students (there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’s an intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunch break) and requires much outside reading and research. According to Mayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking in their free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these two years, they pay for later on…” Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80 applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoning to social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnose problems just visually. You need to analyze based on input and output of the mechanism: it’s behaving a certain way so the problem must be this or that. You can’t always see the problem because many watches are built in layers, so the movements might be covered, or else just too small.” Mayer admits that among his greatest frustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this, but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a very visual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything so young people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmaking curriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductive reasoning, which is no longer taught in school…” Why are these skills so critical? “Because even if the student has worked on hundreds of watches, the next movement that comes along might be totally different than anything he’s experienced. So it’s not a matter of simply learning to piece the puzzle together: students need to understand what the parts do and how they interact and whether or not the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rare when you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt water damage where parts are caked together), because even if spare parts are not available, we can always make the parts. That’s what we teach them in the ‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.” According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is midto late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 and mostly male; there are only one or two females per class), in a second career but with some previous exposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had some exposure, at least they know what the profession is about: having to deal all day long with these tiny parts, the responsibility of working on such valuable pieces. Of course, there are always some who drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recent applicants have included bankers and real estate brokers, some from major cities. “People have more appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains. “And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates who want jobs get them.” Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and build watches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer, “It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, with mentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with important decisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focused on philology and teaching. But at some point, his love of watches inspired him to study watchmaking, which led him to servicing jobs in the States, and ultimately to Lititz. In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is a collector: he wears a different watch every day and favors those that combine technical precision with a beautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititz program that he even lets his students work on his personal watches (excluding vintage handmade pieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was in fact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course: Rolex watches are forever…” His most meaningful watch is one he inherited from his father. “When my dad returned from WWII, the economy was down so he drove a taxi on weekends. An American soldier who couldn’t afford the fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it every day for years but at some point, it was difficult to get replacement parts because their factory had burned down. Observing the watchmaker adapting spare parts by hand was my first exposure to the craft and its artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.” Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take the loupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue with members of your professional environment. You need to actively live the exciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

“Nobody buys a fine watch just to tell time…” —Herman Mayer

TAG Heuer Formula 1, 36MM diamond dial with diamond bezel. Stainless steel case, white ceramic, steel and gold bracelet $3,100

MICHELE Deco Day, 35MM gold plate, diamond dial and silicone grommet strap $915

Bell and Ross BR S white ceramic Phantom, 39MM diamond dial with diamond bezel $7,300

OMEGA De Ville Hour Vision, 41MM stainless steel with black date dial $7,900

TAG Heuer Aquaracer automatic Calibre 16 Chronograph, 42MM stainless steel case, steel and gold bracelet and gold bezel $3,300

Bell and Ross BR 01-92 Heritage, 42 MM black dial with natural leather strap $4,800

The Adorned

TIMEPIECE 51

FOCUS: WINDERS

by Laurie Kahle

WINDING IT UP TRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

ike early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need for winding, watch winders originated as practical items to keep timepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. They ensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout the mechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system by limiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking ever more elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasures energized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuring inlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor components and stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unitâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the ultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

CLASSIC SPORT

Ref 1216030 and 1216031

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and president of Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch from his wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated by the need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved the problem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, to keep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist. Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests, and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was a convenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned that when a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricants can wick away from moving parts, so keeping your watch on a winder is also about preventative maintenance that can extend its life.” Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed to accommodate your ever-growing collection and cater to your personal needs. “It became a sort of lifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandable storage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, a humidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in the Italian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,” explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standard configuration—like buying a car and adding options.” A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg of Austria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand and tailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation. The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, display cabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watches and jewelry. The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a model produced in partnership with Aston Martin. The Object of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlessly combines a safe, a collection of the brand’s proprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors, storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound system with a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and a flying minute tourbillion clock. The striking design emulates the muscular curves of the One-77 supercar, which, like the winder, has a limited production of 77 pieces. The next level of watch storage is building a custom room, like the space commissioned by one of Orbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,” explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room (basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoy his collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storage units that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storage drawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through that kind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” says Agnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eight months from concept to completion. Luckily, you have options.

Winders have entered the realm of luxury furnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit.

SEREIN DIAMOND

FOCUS: COLLECTING

by David A. Rose

TIME ON HIS SIDE SCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

As a world famous racecar driver still at the top of his game, it’s remarkable that Pruett makes time for other ventures. He and his wife Judy have joined forces to establish Pruett Vineyard, as well as Word Weaver Books, publishers of a series of children’s books they authored. Not surprisingly, the theme is racing, including titles like Twelve Little Race Cars, Rookie Racer and Racing Through the Alphabet. Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racing career, these books provide inspiration and excitement for young readers. As for his winemaking business, Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrums apart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literally minute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds. Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process; the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend of chemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m not one of these athletes who puts my name on a project without involvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved in every aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help of some incredible winemakers.” Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has raced every year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was another extraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece. “At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “so being the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted: I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.” ROLEX / TOM O'NEAL

mong the many rewards of success in sports, perhaps the best is garnering the respect and admiration of fans and peers. But for those athletes competing in Rolex-sponsored events, the grand prize comes in the form of a luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set for themselves long before they’re strapped into their racecars. One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn, California, is a true champion in all forms of motor sports, with the additional honor of having won more Rolex-sponsored races than any other driver. Thus, he has become the proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces. Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also won the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times and was awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. In all, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for his brilliant race wins. “My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “When I won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and Ford Motor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as the International Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to be invited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I were ever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolex timepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California, and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on to take the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy my first beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruett also bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

FOCUS: PROFILE

by Randi Molofsky

SO HOT THEY’RE COOL MICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

walk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulates much of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an Art Deco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style. It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with an innate understanding of classic design. From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami. The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit of flash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’s seaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam. Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from the Jelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chic standouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepieces make a big statement at affordable prices. Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern take on a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular pattern and oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’s round case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel and chronograph dial (available with or without diamonds). One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is also reinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-atme neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals in mint, coral and steel. Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’s commitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety of straps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather, cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze, whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

NEW CHRONO CLASSIC CERAMIC Inspired by the ingenuity of the Original Swiss Army Knife, your companion for life.

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES

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EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

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BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDY

At the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. The grand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches, in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, the manor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor, some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce to present the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.

SCOTT CHANEY

STEP IN STYLE

Located in a small shop on New York City’s East Side, designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection puts fashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Her unique creations can be seen in very stylish homes all over the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, the Smithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs, inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditional American quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art, are made of natural fibers including wool, silk, pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’s the only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knotted rugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!

REST ASSURED

JULIE SOEFER

DAVID TURNER PHOTOGRAPHY

Hôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even more fashionable and exclusive than the island of St. Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on a gently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area, each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its own gated entrance and a red mailbox flag that serves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoy netting-draped four-poster mahogany beds, high-tech entertainment centers and kitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plunge pools and incredible views across the lush hills to a beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier has selected superb wines and the chef creates amazing dishes (including the hotel’s signature pasta in cream with black truffles). If you choose to stir from your villa, arrangements can be made for a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, you can just put up your flag, order the excellent room service, and hide out like the other privacyseeking celebrity guests.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE ART

BUBBLES IN THE AIR

Inspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Or hotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near the museum district, owns an extensive art collection that includes Corot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to be one of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor in North America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas (like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-loving guests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, then dine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturally paired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, created by chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.

Pops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs, presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections. Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown on Champagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is always better to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetness level] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warm and balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut. “Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…is perhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair with oysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.” Here’s to a sparkling summer!

FOOD

MAKING MAGIC IN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

or those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditional restaurant box setup, David Burke has become somewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with his fancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alley and an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize the oft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinary arts and food technology) with a penchant for whimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzle diners by name, there’s still a decent chance you’ve eaten in one of his 10 restaurants, or purchased his gourmet products. (“Burke in the Box” takeout meal at Las Vegas’ McCarran Airport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’ll recall his very near win against Bobby Flay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kissoff from Top Chef Masters. Chef Burke has been a longtime pioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery, cooking up a career that “blurs the lines between chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through a slew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctions appearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago, Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, David Burke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by David Burke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behind Pastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and various flavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his local greenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist, inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best? I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washer in high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when I fell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get real excitement from the energy and creative teamwork that happens in there. So all of the other things I am today came out of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy. Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke. Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

The Perfect Match: Rose Gold and Morganite

Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actually do the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the business side of things. I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me to be in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that I was going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reached the level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to be partner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company. I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. It was the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefs as businessmen. A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting the scene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thoughtout designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward? When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward! But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants, especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decorate them, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy, comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Our steakhouses are more masculine.

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want! But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberries year round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple. Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from Bowlmor Lanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon, spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, to David Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orange and green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eat out, and what do you like to cook at home? I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll make gemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook for friends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab or turkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread and pickled onions. Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little more adventurous about trying? Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about? We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jersey restaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little red wagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into the restaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plants that they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare it at the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that. What’s your overall food philosophy? I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s what is most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce market myself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish and seafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with my patented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. I bought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where my beef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We have the product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading. It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where our stuff is coming from. Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal” is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along? The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t been touted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy, and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helps support American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However, you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’s absolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hard for big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; you might simply not have a good local person for something you need. How do you please loyal customers who request something that isn’t in season? In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

Maple Bacon Dates Yields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:

1 ⁄4 pound peanuts 2 1⁄2 ounces honey 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon 20 seedless grapes 1 egg Flour Breadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized. Cool and puree. 2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half piece of par-baked smoked bacon. 3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash, then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil and fry until crispy. 4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bamboo skewers and serve.

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TRAVEL

The view from the lounge attached to one of the suites at Amangiri makes the desert seem like a private space. Coffee is always available for early risers on the Ecoventura yachts in the Galapagos Islands.

ECO-IMMERSION

t its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world is new. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes every sound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journey of coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN: Cruise the Galapagos with Ecoventura The arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days as Ecoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador stands outside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabin vessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’s least-spoiled corner. When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone, you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes across black lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird and animal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche of the islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosity rather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

AMANGIRI IMAGES COURTESY OF AMANGIRI RESORT. GALAPAGOS IMAGES BY PATRICIA HARRIS & DAVID LYON.

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOU TO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lions let photographers snap their portraits with abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises) are spectacular in the Galapagos Islands.

The step pool at the spa at Amangiri glows in the falling light of dusk. The giant tortoises of the Galapagos Islands are one of the region’s endangered species.

All the bungalows at Lapa Rios in Costa Rica are constructed of thatch.

The foot hue of blue-footed boobies varies by individual.

STRANGE CREATURES INHABIT THEIR OWN GARDEN OF EDEN

footed boobies in their comic courtship dance. Male frigate birds nearly roll over backwards on their nests, incapacitated by the red chest pouches they have inflated to lure a mate. The strange creatures inhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing their pups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoises lumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs skitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife, but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes. (Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS: Costa Rica Escape at Lapa Rios Lapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowland rainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitive tourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in the forest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches and tree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the human exception in a 930-acre private nature reserve. More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song to add to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora and fauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous, distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforest experience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of El Remanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls. laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS: The Purifying Desert at Amangiri For thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenation in the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peaceful mountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the raw landscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as a whispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis. After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the 25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-body treatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translates as “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, daily group yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. But nothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle of illumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars. amanresorts.com

Perfectly Imperfect

BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES

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LAST BID FOR LOVE

AN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

y heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartly dressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d been holding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entire Christie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantly dressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetable salads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille. In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused the various lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor had touched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, people passionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendous influence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this 1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their own wardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady was our shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’ “soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.” The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me my paddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs to the James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras, I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue from the “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had been considering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was a February Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection— including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyond complementing her violet eyes. The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the “Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the “ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to secure a lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time the bidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Pisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsic value of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenance and set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I was sadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000! As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasingly dejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, the price was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander Rockefeller Center and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Love bracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

I M AG I N E

T H E P L AC E S T H E Y W I L L G O .

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SPRING/SUMMER 2012