AC C E N T/ T H E M AG A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S
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SPRING/SUMMER 2011
2011 JOHN HARDY LIMITED
NAGA COLLECTION
Contents spring/summer 2011 B AT O N R O U G E
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Johnny Tate CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
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ADVERTISING MANAGER
Amy Graham BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Brenda Berg Chad Berg Ryan Berg Scott Berg PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS J O U R N A L S FA S H I O N G R O U P PUBLISHER
Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman
FEATURES 2 Welcome Letter 6 Events at Lee Michaels 10 Spring Trends at Lee Michaels 18 Corporate Gifts: Bringing Joy 22 Trumped 24 Love Stories 26 Accent Advisor 28 Fashion: From the Runways 34 Trends: The Joy of Jewelry 38 Essay: The Family Pearls 54 Speed: Grand Sport 58 Travel: Into Africa
60 Fitness: Healthy Hedonism 62 Art: Man’s Best Friend in the Spotlight 64 His Side: Romancing the Stone
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
WATCH SECTION 42 Watch Advisor 46 Watches at Lee Michaels 48 First Person: Hand-Me-Downs Welcome 50 Interview: Larry Pettinelli of Patek Philippe 52 Celebrity Ambassadors: Beautiful Women, Beautiful Watches
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Beth Bernstein PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
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Mac Brighton Copyright 2011. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 9, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
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Rock Tradition.
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ACCENTADVISOR
HOW DO I MIX FINE AND FASHION JEWELRY?
I’VE BEEN SEEING A LOT OF BLACK USED IN FINE JEWELRY. WHAT ARE THE KEY
Use a pretty black dress or a simple top as the backdrop for mixing pieces. Wear a gold medallion
STONES AND METALS, AND HOW CAN I WEAR THEM?
pendant along with multiple chains in blackened and tonal antiqued base metal. Or you can mix in real baroque pearls with a large colored pendant in crystal rather than a precious gem. A low-risk way to mix real and faux is on the wrist; you have more room to be playful as it’s further from your face. Here, mix leather or suede wrap styles with pavé charms, or Bakelite and wood with precious stones. Throw in some high karat gold thin bangles to create a truly eclectic look. This season, designers are even mixing these materials into one piece to offer a statement at an affordable price. But if you prefer simplicity, stick to a pair of cuffs in wood with center gemstones, and a mesh necklace with chains of matte gold. The combination will be different and dramatic, and take you through the season in style.
The trend started with designers adding a black rhodium finish to white gold and mixing it with high karat yellow gold for a richer look. As the darker metal began to sell and the prices for gold went up, the next step was to use blackened or highly oxidized silver. (Some designers still use black rhodium plated 18K white gold, which can mean a slightly higher price tag.) These metals look great with the of-the-moment diamonds—also black—which are spectacular in rose, brilliant and polished rough cuts. Black can be done in styles from gothic to feminine, such as pavé leaves and flowers with a black diamond center. If you want to add color to your black jewelry look, try a hint of rough cut fancy sapphires, the pretty watercolor shades of moonstones and aquamarines, or the
IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHN HARDY
more saturated orange hues of citrines.
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FASHION
IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM
SUBSTANTIAL PENDANTS PROVIDE PERFECT CONTRAST TO PRETTY PRINTS
Runways
From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS TEMPERED A
KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLORS
ON SPRING 2011 RUNWAYS ACROSS THE GLOBE. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
Runways
From the NOTICE-ME NEUTRALS
FASHION LAYER HEARTS OVER LACE FOR AN ON-TREND VINTAGE LOOK
A LITTLE SHINE GOES A LONG WAY…
MOONSTONE MANIA! THESE COOL STONES ARE HOT FOR SPRING
Manship Theatre Thursday, May 5 7 & 9 pm Pianist, singer and songwriter Eliane Elias is known for her distinctive and immediately recognizable musical style which blends her Brazilian roots and her sensuous voice with her impressive instrumental jazz, classical and composition skills.
ELIANE ELIAS
MANSHIP THEATRE| DOWNTOWN | DOWNTOWN BATON BATON ROUGE MANSHIP THEATRE ROUGE || 225.344.0334 225.344.0334| |MANSHIPTHEATRE.ORG MANSHIPTHEATRE.ORG Special thanks to the River City Jazz Masters Series sponsors:
proudly supporting the series and its educational initiatives.
www.artsbr.org 225.344.8558
The River City Jazz Coalition thanks:
Verge and Cheri Ausberry, C.J. Blache and Sherri McConnell, Gary and Joyce Dennis, Maria and Brian Despinasse II, Leo and Gwendolyn Hamilton, Tim and Stacia Hardy, Cornelius and Karen Lewis, The John and Virginia Noland Fund, Albert and Roberta Sam and The Josef Sternberg Memorial Fund.
TRENDS
The Joy of Jewelry COLORFUL GEMS FIT FASHION’S BRIGHT OUTLOOK BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
THE GEMS Adam Graham, marketing director of The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), agrees that bright blues and greens, as well as shades of purple, are leading trends in colored gemstone jewelry this year. Among the azures, he points to traditional blue sapphire, aquamarine and blue topaz, but emphasizes that lesser-known stones like labradorite, turquoise, blue moonstone, chalcedony, tanzanite and blue shaded black onyx are extremely significant as well. With dramatically-sized jewelry in vogue, it helps that many of the latter gemstones can be purchased in high quality at affordable prices.
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IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID YURMAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, ROBERTO COIN
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his season, there’s one simple rule on the road to great jewelry style: Don’t get stuck in neutral! Get into gear and follow the direction of spring 2011 fashion, which is all about color. Does this mean that neutrals like black—so strong these past few years—are no longer fashionable? Is it time to abandon your Little Black Dress? “Absolutely not,” says Meredith Smith, designer and cultural trend analyst at The Doneger Group in New York City. “Even though fashion’s biggest names flooded the spring runways with bright-colored clothes, you can still wear your classic LBD. However, the perennial cocktail classic and other neutral-toned attire needs to be popped with colorful jewelry and accessories. Right now, our culture is all about finding joy; adorning ourselves in happy, escapist colors (like bright blues and greens) is one way to do that.”
LAYERING NECKLACES While models strutted down
“This year, you’re also going to see more engagement ring center stones in blues and greens,” notes Graham. “Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire from Prince William has re-ignited the trend that his mother, Princess Diana, started back in 1981, when she received the engagement ring from Prince Charles. Blue sapphire is a great option for women who don’t want to be too ‘bling,’ and at the same time, it’s a high-end gem of great color.” At the AGTA’s annual Spectrum jewelry design awards for 2011, Graham tells us, “One of the winning pieces was a platinum ring with a neongreen tsavorite center stone. Our panel of judges, all in the fashion or jewelry industries, said it represents a definite style direction.” In fact, many of the best jewelry designers are also premiering dazzling fashion collections with great green gems, especially green tourmalines, peridots, green diamonds, emeralds, green agates, green sapphires and tsavorites. “And for the past year,” says Graham, “celebrity stylists have been requesting to borrow green gemstone jewelry for their A-list clients to wear to awards shows.” The green jewelry they’ve been borrowing will coordinate with many red carpet fashion styles according to Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of The Pantone Color Institute, which named ‘Peapod’ green as one of its top fashion colors for spring/summer. “We’ve learned that green really works well as a neutral and we see people more inclined to wear it on a regular basis,” she says. This past fall, Pantone chose ‘Purple Orchid’ as its number-one fashion color and, for spring/summer, the passion for purple continues, with ‘Lavender’ in its top ten selection. Jewelry designers are showing violet gem creations in everything from deep amethysts and fancy purple sapphires to pastel pinky-purple sugilites and quartzes.
the runways wearing mega-necklaces, in this case you have another option. Instead of investing in one massive neck piece, a more practical purchase might be to buy several long chains and links that can each be doubled or tripled. With layering necklaces, you can experiment and create many different looks, for both daywear and evening. Play with the necklaces, graduating the lengths differently to accommodate the neckline of whatever you’re wearing. To complete the look, add a 16-inch chain with a pendant or enhancer. In this season of bold color, choose one with a bright gemstone center. EPIC RINGS Typically, you ladies buy these supersized and super stylish rings for yourself. (Well, why not—you deserve it!) They’re statement pieces that reflect your personality and personal style, so be sure to select gemstones you really like—plus, since it’s on your hand, you’ll be looking at it all day. Should you invest a lot of money in this epic ring? That depends, to some degree, on whether you’ll be wearing it every day or if you’ll want to buy several and switch—much like some people do with watches. Unlike the big cocktail rings of eras past, the epic ring is no longer a dress-up-only accessory. GUMDROP EARRINGS And you thought gumdrops were just those chewy sugar-coated candies you shouldn’t be eating! Think again: It’s the season’s strongest earring silhouette. More medium-large than ultra-large in size, this drop-style earring focuses on one prominent colored gem that hangs to about mid-neck. It’s classic, yet, at the same time, fashion. Ask your jeweler about the earrings’ stone shape and cut. Some gumdrops have slices of color with a flat bottom, allowing light to pass through the gemstone, much in the way natural light shines through a stained glass window. MORE THAN ONE METAL COLOR No, you can’t be a yellow-only or white-only jewelry lover anymore. It just isn’t fashionable. If most—or all—of your jewelry is still the same metal color that you’ve been wearing forever, this is the season to start collecting pieces made in different surface colors. If you want to stick to karat gold for your precious metal, that’s okay, but there are many different gold colors to choose from: rose, blackened and sometimes peach. Even the texture on a piece slightly changes the look of the color. (For example, a high-polished blackened gold bracelet will appear to have a different hue than a satin-finished or matte blackened gold piece.) Once you begin to add different colored pieces to your jewelry wardrobe, you’ll see how all the shades really do work together. And no need to worry if you don’t have “enough” of a certain color when you start. Part of the fun of jewelry is collecting it over time.
FIVE TO BUY Now that you know what these post-winter pickme-up colors and coordinating gemstones are, which jewelry pieces in particular should you be considering? Ultimately that depends on your individual style as well as what jewelry you already own, but here are the five jewelry must-haves we highly recommend: BIG BANGLES The number-one jewelry item adorning spring runway models was the big bangle, and they usually wore two or three per arm. The uber bangles—not slim stackables and not ultra-wide cuffs—almost always featured stones, beads, or some sort of bright embellishment.
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ESSAY
THE FAMILY PEARLS A
s the cathedral bells pealed, the “new” bride and her groom turned to walk down the aisle. My mother and I were in Manila to celebrate her sister’s golden wedding anniversary. The assembled crowd of stylish men and women had spent months consulting their embroiderers, modistes and tailors—all to design traditional butterfly-sleeved ternos and barongs tagalog that would comply with the “Native Dress” request engraved in gold on the invitation. While the keen-eyed could distinguish between piña that had been embroidered and tatted at one pet convent versus another, what really set the women apart were their pearls. My mother wore her prized princess length strand of golden 10 mm baroque natural (not cultured) pearls and her younger sister wore her stunning choker length strand of blue 8 mm natural pearls. But the real showstopper glowed on the bride—a perfectly matched 10 foot strand of creamy pink 6 mm natural pearls. As my aunt glided gracefully past us, she resembled my grandmother in the formal wedding portrait that hangs in the gallery of our family home in Manila. A few days earlier, upon arriving at the traditional Spanish-style hacienda, my mother and her younger sister chatted about fittings with their modistes and donations to the convents while I lingered in the gallery studying the family portraits. At the very end stood the “lifesize” (at 5’10” I stand taller than the frame) oil painting of my maternal grandparents on their wedding day almost 75 years ago. The diminutive figures in the painting were resplendent in their native Filipino dress. I was struck by how realistically and beautifully the artist had rendered each pearl in my
grandmother’s necklace, which dramatically looped her tiny neck and grazed the hem of her dress. Upon my grandmother’s death, she left each of her daughters the parure in her birthstone—emeralds for my mother, rubies for her elder sister and sapphires for her younger sister—but she left the “family pearls” to all three of them. After consulting our family jeweler, who had brokered the original acquisition of this extraordinary single strand that had taken over 50 years to match, the sisters decided to separate the necklace into three equal strands, each finished with a new platinum clasp adorned with a ruby, an emerald and a sapphire to represent the three sisters. Over the years, as they dutifully had their pearls restrung annually, each one divided her strand and had the clasp reproduced to create a single strand with jeweled stations that could also be worn as nested strands, a shorter strand and a bracelet, or a choker with several bracelets. The “family pearls” (as my mother and her sisters always called them) had made many appearances over the years at various family events including weddings, christenings, anniversaries and even funerals. Once, as mother of the bride, my elder aunt had even worn her set combined with my younger aunt’s. But the entire original strand had never been reunited until that golden wedding anniversary. Almost another decade will pass before my own parents celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary—an event as rare and special as the pearls that will be worn to commemorate it. While high-definition video has long replaced oil portraits, the idea of several generations and one very beautiful necklace reuniting to celebrate a milestone will never become outdated.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF MIKIMOTO
REUNITED AND IT FEELS SO GOOD BY JOSEPH UNGOCO
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ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2011
getty 1 / Peter Dazeley
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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WATCHES
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
IS IT OKAY TO WEAR A SPORTS WATCH AS AN EVERYDAY WATCH?
IMAGE COURTESY OF TW STEEL
If you love it, why not?
Unless you’re talking about a tacky plastic watch, most of today’s better sports watches are thin enough to wear as an everyday watch, and offer features that most of us appreciate even at home or in the office. These can include water resistance, built-in chronographs, readable dials and various subdials, calendars and other complications. That said, there’s nothing classier than a beautiful dress watch and for spring 2011, classical elegance is all the rage. Our suggestion: build a watch wardrobe that includes both sports and dress watches and alternate according to the occasion, and your mood.
WHAT ARE MECHANICAL WATCHES AND WHY ARE THEY SO EXPENSIVE?
As opposed to quartz watches that function electronically, a mechanical watch is driven by a spring which must be periodically wound. A series of gears power the balance wheel, which oscillates back and forth at a constant rate. A device called an escapement releases the wheels with each swing of the balance wheel, moving the hands forward at a constant rate and creating a ticking sound. It’s technology dating back to 17th century Europe, and the expense is the design, the old world craftsmanship, the maintenance and replacement parts, and of course the intrinsic value of precious metals and other fine materials. But for those whose hearts beat to the pulse of a mechanical timepiece, there’s nothing else quite like it!
I HAVE MY GRANDFATHER’S TIMEPIECE FROM THE 1950 S ; IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT TO RESTORE IT?
GETTY 1/ RTI IMAGES
T H E D E C I S I O N T O R E S T O R E A V I N TA G E T I M E P I E C E is part rational (Will the restored timepiece be worth more?) and part emotional (This is my grandfather’s watch!). Bottom line: the joy of wearing an heirloom, especially one with family history, is unique and priceless. That said, only you can decide if it’s worth the investment. Once you’ve made the decision to restore your vintage timepiece, entrust it only to a qualified technician with proper training in assessing and working on older timepiece movements. Improper repair of an older watch can damage the movement irreparably. Incorrect replacement parts, finishing techniques and lubrication are just some of the issues we’ve seen. In general, older timepieces cannot be expected to function with the same level of accuracy as new models. However, if properly restored, the watch should be suitable for daily wear. One must allow ample time for the work to be completed, as parts might not be readily available, and the technician might have to search the marketplace for the proper part, or in some cases, make the part by hand. Once the work is done, consider enhancing your newly restored vintage watch with an interesting strap—perhaps one in a bold color or with contrast stitching—to make a unique statement. 42
EBEL BELUGA
©2011 Ebel - www.ebel.com - Ref 1215855-1215924
WHAT TO KNOW WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TIMEPIECES
WATCH ADVISOR
I'M ABOUT TO INVEST IN A WATCH AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW MORE ABOUT ITS COMPLICATIONS. CAN YOU HELP? Moon Phase Subdial Strap
30-Minute Register for Chronograph Second Counter for Chronograph
Lug Hour Marker or Index
Repeating Slide (Chimes Time Aloud When Activated)
Start/Stop for Chronograph Minute Hand
Hour Hand Crown
Second Hand
Date Indicator
Day of Week Indicator Year Indicator
Reset for Chronograph
Bezel
Month Indicator
Dial (Below the Hands)
ILLUSTRATION BY HARRY BATES; INFORMATION PROVIDED BY JOHN HORNE
12-Hour Register for Chronograph
Crystal (Above the Hands)
Understanding the parts and functions of a timepiece can help you select the style that’s right for you. It’s also helpful later, when your watch requires service or repair. This particular model has both time-telling and time-keeping capabilities. The chronograph, for time-keeping, is essentially an advanced stopwatch. 44
With its soft lines and subtle alternating finishes, the Linea is a timeless icon of femininity that naturally becomes associated with life’s most beautiful highlights. Each Linea is fitted with an interchangeable strap.www.baume-et-mercier.com
by Joseph Ungoco
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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HAND-ME-DOWNS WELCOME A MILESTONE WATCH PASSED AMONG FAMILY GIVES THE PHRASE NEW MEANING.
A
s my plane touched down at LAX, the pilot cheerily reminded us to set our watches back three hours to the local time. I glanced at my hand-me-down Rolex, my father’s stainless steel Air-King Oyster Perpetual, bought for his swearing in as a U.S. citizen on July 4, 1965. This watch had kept him on time for more than a decade. I honestly couldn’t recall the last time I had worn this watch on a plane, but this would be its last transcontinental crossing on my wrist. My father gave me “The Air-King”, his very first Rolex, on my 11th birthday. Two months prior, to commemorate his own birthday, he had “invested in” an 18 karat yellow gold and stainless steel Datejust with Jubilee bracelet, pulling ahead of his stainless steel-clad siblings in our family version of the Rolex Stakes. (The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand, but the ’80s brought my family’s obsession to a whole new level.) Later that year, my father took me with him to the watchmaker’s shop, where we had the Air-King cleaned, the crystal polished, and the luminous hour markers and hands repainted—an annual tradition. Just as I thought we were ready to leave, the watchmaker came forward with a green leather box stamped with a gold coronet. Inside was the
matching women’s version of my father’s new watch. That summer, my mother handed her stainless steel Rolex with the Oyster bracelet—an engagement present from my father—down to her younger sister for her birthday. Years later, before my 30th birthday, I called my watch dealer about buying myself a special watch—perhaps a brand new Submariner. But when I arrived at his shop, he had found the perfect tribute to my milestone birthday: a watch exactly as old as me. It was a mint condition 1969 18 karat yellow gold Rolex Date with graduated Oyster bracelet. Its South American seller swore it had sat untouched in his father’s safety deposit box for at least 25 years! I was assured that after a quick swipe of my credit card, a slightly longer FBI check (for the watch, not me) and a thorough inspection (again for the watch), this gorgeous timepiece would be mine. My “new” Rolex arrived just in time to accompany me to my birthday party. I lived happily with my Rolexes for several years, until the event that prompted this story: my godson’s birthday. The fourth of six boys, he was well acquainted with the phrase “hand-me-down”, but I think that my present to him that day—a green leather box with a gold coronet, the Air-King safely tucked inside—may have changed his opinion of that phrase forever. At least I hope so…
The Bond films of the ’60s and ’70s introduced my father and his three brothers to the Rolex brand.
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DECO DIAMOND TRI TONE
by Roberta Naas
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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THE NEXT GENERATION PATEK PHILIPPE IS ALWAYS LOOKING AHEAD.
P
atek Philippe has long been regarded as the epitome of watchmaking. This legendary family-owned, Geneva-based brand has been crafting some of the finest watches in the world since 1839. Indeed, it has an impressive 70 patents to its credit and has won an amazing number of awards throughout its existence. Still, the brand continues to push the technological envelope, always on the cutting edge of research and development in an effort to bring the best horological masterpieces to the forefront. This manufacture produces everything in house according to the strictest standards of excellence. For this and other reasons, the brand can easily stand by its tagline: “You never really own a Patek Philippe; you merely look after it for the next generation.” Indeed, perhaps more so than any other watch brand, Patek Philippe timepieces hold their value from decade to decade, century to century. In fact, Patek Philippe holds a record for achieving 15 of the 16 highest
prices ever paid for a timepiece at auction. What’s more, at a Christie’s auction this past spring, a one-of-a-kind 1944 Ref. 1527 chronograph garnered $5.7 million, breaking a record for any yellow gold watch ever sold at auction. Naturally, the value of these watches lies in their incredible workmanship and esteemed complexity. Patek Philippe makes about 42,000 watches per year for worldwide consumption— and of the more complicated pieces, a very limited number are built. Only the finest, handpicked jewelers around the globe are selected to carry this brand. Here, in an exclusive interview, Larry Pettinelli, president of Patek Philippe, USA, discusses the steadfast commitment of the brand to excellence and its belief that even the younger generation—one that flicks open its iPhones to check the time—can still
The value of these watches lies in the incredible workmanship and esteemed complexity.
Above: Men’s Annual Calendar, Ladies’ Nautilus 50
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understand the affinity for a timepiece New York (instead of Switzerland). that will long outlast them. “We also work more closely than ever Pettinelli has been at the helm of with our retail jewelers to give them and Patek Philippe in the U.S. for four years their customers access to what they need now, but he has been with the company in terms of fine products,” says Pettinelli. since 1988, when he started as a trainee “We know that people have milestones in carrying watches for the son of the their lives to celebrate, and that they want distributor. It was two years before to pick things with value, especially today Pettinelli was even allowed to write an when they are scrutinizing every dollar order, and four years before he started they spend. A Patek Philippe will have discussing actual sales with retailers. inherent value from the minute they “‘There’s no reason to rush,’ I purchase it to 20 years down the road, and remember the owners telling me,” says 100 years down the road.” Pettinelli, “’Because when we hire According to Pettinelli, he has built a someone, we hire them to stay for a long younger, higher-energy-level team at time.’” Patek Philippe that understands today’s nd stay a long generation. “We don’t rest on our laurels, time, he did. Larry Pettinelli, president, Patek Philippe, USA or take for granted that we are Patek and Today, 22 years that’s it,” says Pettinelli. “We keep later, Pettinelli developing new products, strategies and heads the relationships. Our retailers are our c o m p a n y in partners, and we try to give them great America and admits that the time has tools for their customers—for generations gone by in a heartbeat. As the to come.” awareness of Swiss watches rose, Among the most recent “great tools” Patek Philippe reached iconic status. are Annual Calendar watches, especially As vintage watch collecting grew and Refs. 5205 and 5207, the Nautilus global auctions became more and timepieces for women and men, and the more prevalent, the value of Patek exciting steel Twenty-4 for women. Philippe timepieces became world Additionally, Patek Philippe takes its renowned. The brand blossomed and Generations ad campaign to a different the challenges were met in the U.S. as level, based on the concept of “Begin Your they were around the world: with a creed of exclusivity, Own Tradition.” It is centered on the emotions inherent in perfection and innovation. relationships (fathers and sons, mothers and daughters) and In the four years Pettinelli has been in charge in America, conveys the enduring value and beauty of something precious. he has taken a tighter reign over the brand’s distribution: The new campaign introduces the line “Something truly closing about 40 retail doors and making the product even precious holds its beauty forever.” more exclusive. Just about 100 retailers across America are now “It’s important to emphasize that we are building watches authorized to carry Patek Philippe timepieces. Those that do for the next generation, not just for now,” says Pettinelli. “We are are superbly trained, and most travel to Switzerland to visit the not an old, stodgy, conservative company. We offer newness, workshops and witness the revered watches being built. In innovation and excitement.” typical Patek Philippe style, the brand has also reorganized the way it services watches under warranty in America, and now offers faster turnaround by servicing most of their models in Left: Ladies’ Twenty-4
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“It’s important to emphasize that we are building watches for the next generation, not just for now,” says Pettinelli.
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ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS
by Jillian Sprague
BEAUTIFUL WOMEN, BEAUTIFUL WATCHES THE WORLD’S FINEST TIMEPIECES MAKE THESE SUPERSTARS SHINE (AND OF COURSE, VICE VERSA). GWYNETH PALTROW FOR BAUME & MERCIER When opportunity arose for Paltrow to partner with the famed Swiss Maison d’Horlogerie, she felt an instant connection to the brand’s motto: Life is about moments. “That very much represents my personal philosophy on life,” she explains. For the actress and singer who recently got her star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, quiet moments with her family are rare and precious. At a seaside party in the Hamptons, she shared that many of these moments have taken place at her home there, where she enjoys relaxing, playing with her children and grilling seafood in the garden. “I feel at home in the place between land and sea,” she says.
DIANE KRUGER FOR JAEGER-LECOULTRE Kruger fell in love with Jaeger-LeCoultre when she received a Reverso timepiece on her 18th birthday. Little did she know that over a decade later, the watch manufacturer would ask her to represent their prestigious brand on red carpets around the globe. Her elegant beauty, strong personality and incredible talent made Kruger the perfect muse for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers, who strive to encompass a balance between charm and strength of character in each
MARIA SHARAPOVA FOR TAG HEUER TAG Heuer believes that women experience time
of their timepiece collections.
differently than men. Men cut it up into fractions in order to visualize it, while women see it as a a poetic flow. For men, time is linear. For women, it is cyclical. The brand recently asked tennis superstar Maria Sharapova to help design its new Formula 1 ceramic watches because “she is a woman endowed with the systematic approach that comes with the territory.” The ceramic bracelet with butterfly clasp is ideal for delicate wrists. The black edition is perfect for night on the town; the white, for anytime and anyplace.
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FOCUS: CELEBRITY AMBASSADORS
NICOLE KIDMAN FOR OMEGA Since 2004, this Academy Awardwinning actress has been a champion of Omega’s graceful and timeless designs.
KATE WINSLET FOR LONGINES
This year, she’s wearing the Ladymatic,
What does time mean to you?
a design first launched in 1955.
In my 20s it meant doing as much as I could very quickly, and in my 30s I’m
Who better than a strong woman
discovering that this needs to change.
like Kidman to represent this product,
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years, and our idea of what a
about my job as I always have been.
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What do you consider your greatest strength?
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You should probably ask my friends and family, but I would say that loyalty
Says Kidman, “These days, interest
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ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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DANICA PATRICK FOR TISSOT What has been the most memorable time in your life? I would have to say competing at the Indianapolis 500. Growing up, it was always a goal of mine to one day race at the Brickyard, and to have gotten to that level in my career is something that I hold very dear. What would you do with more time? I think I’d spend it with my family and friends. As you can imagine, my life can be hectic at times and it would be nice to be able to slow down and enjoy the company of my loved ones more often. What would you do differently if you could turn back time? I wouldn’t change a single thing in my life. I’m very proud of my accomplishments on the track and of where I’m at in my career.
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by David A. Rose
ATC IT’S ABOUT TIME
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FOCUS: SPEED
GRAND SPORT THE INTERSECTION OF HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY
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t was a late afternoon in September when two young men were driving to Salinas, Calif., in a brand new 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder. The owner of the car planned to compete in the Salinas Sports Car Race that weekend, but rather than transport the car by trailer from Los Angeles as intended, he felt he needed seat time in the new car before he raced it. As they approached an intersection near Cholame, a 1950 Ford coming from the opposite direction suddenly crossed lanes and the two cars collided head-on. The driver, James Dean, was Hollywood’s newest heartthrob. He died within minutes of the crash, and a legend was born. Although only 90 Porsche 550 Spyders were made between 1953 and 1956, many have survived. At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in 2010, one of the 600 cars entered was a Porsche 550 Spyder identical to the one James Dean was to race 55 years ago. Vintage racing has grown to become one of the most exciting forms of motorsports. It brings to life what most people will only see on the pages of
coffee table books, in museums or in movies. Rolex has sponsored motorsports since the 1930s. As the leading name in luxury timepieces, it’s fitting that they are title sponsor for one of the world’s most significant vintage race events. “Motor racing has an enormous following around the world. It appeals to those who appreciate the ultimate in technology as well as extreme competition,” said Peter Nicholson, vice president and director of communications, Rolex Watch U.S.A. “Since split-second timing is so critical for drivers and crews, it is fitting that Rolex adds its reputation for precision timekeeping to these magnificent events.” Participants at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion hail from 13 countries and bring with them the most exotic cars on the planet to race at TOP: A full field of three-liter Formula 1 racecars, considered the pinnacle of motor racing from 1966 to ’83. BOTTOM: A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was presented to Graham Wallis. 54
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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WONDERING AND KNOWING.
FOCUS: SPEED Laguna Seca’s challenging 11-turn circuit. Not long ago, one would have been able to see a Type 35 Bugatti Grand Prix car only in a museum. Last year 90 Bugattis were in Monterey, 35 of them racing in the Bugatti Grand Prix as part of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. (They later toured the California coastline as part of the Bugatti Rally 2010.) At vintage races, the cars are not necessarily the only stars. Patrick Dempsey, a passionate driver best known for his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd on TV’s Grey’s Anatomy, raced a Mazda GTP Prototype at the event. Always a crowd favorite, he was visibly thrilled with his racecar—and his results. Jay Leno and other celebrities are perennial attendees, but this year it was a true American legend who garnered the most attention. Dan Gurney, who was honored at the event, is widely considered to be the greatest American racecar driver of all time. As a driver he has won races in Indy cars, Formula 1, NASCAR stock cars and the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He was the only American to win a Formula 1 Grand Prix in a car of his own design when, in 1967, he won the Belgian Grand Prix at Circuit Spa
said Gurney. “I don’t know what it is about human beings...we all have an affinity for the internal combustion engine and its sounds and smells, as well as all the history. It’s great to see decades touching each other and new generations appreciating similar things.” The Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion is part of Monterey Auto Week, when sophisticated people, exotic cars, fine food and superb wines combine for a celebration that has become internationally recognized as a showcase for luxury and glamour. Automobile enthusiasts and connoisseurs of culture enjoy the
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Patrick Dempsey and Jay Leno; Graham Wallis in his 1929 Lagonda, for which he won The Spirit of Monterey Trophy for overall excellence.; some of the many cars raced or built by Dan Gurney.; Patrick Dempsey races the Jeremy Barnes Mazda RX-92 GTP. Francorchamps in the beautiful Gurney Weslake Eagle F1. Despite all his wins, Gurney is most well-known for his sportsmanship, which has won him the respect and admiration of peers and race fans around the world. As he was honored, Gurney reflected back on his prime, when cars were fast, drivers colorful and tragedy seemed always to be lurking around the next corner. “We were certainly driven by enormous passion for the sport, and we had great respect for those who came before us...we weren’t thinking about future history at the time,” said Gurney. He thanked his role model Phil Walters (better known as Ted Tappet), who “could move through traffic gracefully without knocking anybody off the road.” Gurney is thrilled about the growth and popularity of vintage racing and enjoys seeing enthusiastic gentlemen drivers behind the wheel of the cars that he and his peers made famous. “I’m sure these guys are as crazy as we were,”
atmosphere of elegance while attending auto-related shows, auctions, cocktail parties and elaborate dinners. At the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, grand touring cars drive some of the most scenic portions of Monterey’s 17-Mile Drive and then parade down Carmel’s Ocean Avenue for bystanders to enjoy. The festival of automobile culture culminates with the internationally acclaimed Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, where the world’s most extraordinary cars are judged for authenticity, function, history and style. As the trailers and auto-transporters are reloaded with their valuable cargo and the participants catch their flights home, the quiet and lovely Monterey peninsula returns to its normal tranquility. But plans are already underway for making the next event, from August 19th to the 21st, 2011, even more unforgettable. 56
TRAVEL
Into Africa IN ZAMBIA, SPOTTING WILDLIFE IS A WALK IN THE PARK. BY CAROLINA BOLADO HALE
PHOTOS NATHAN HALE
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s we glided silently on the Zambezi River, we soaked in the stillness of the moment. To our right was Zimbabwe; to our left, Zambia. Above, the vast African sky enveloped us in its limitless supply of blue. Then we saw the hippos. Our reverie was broken by the creatures, who bobbed slowly up and down and grunted their displeasure at our having trespassed in their corner of the Zambezi. Our path ahead—and behind—was blocked by two pods of the roly poly beasts, among the deadliest in Africa. The promise of getting close to wildlife on a canoe trip was part of what had drawn us to Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. But this was, perhaps, a bit too close. We gave them as wide a berth as possible. After several minutes, our guide, who was well versed in hippopotamus habits, dipped his oar into the water. “Let’s go. Quickly now,” he said, calmly but firmly. It was one of the many reminders we had while on safari that despite the gourmet food, plush beds and clawfoot bathtubs, we were very much in the wild, in the home of often unpredictable animals engaged in a daily life-and-death struggle. It’s easy to forget while sipping afternoon tea and watching the river float lazily by, until an elephant lumbers into camp searching for a snack. Being able to get deep into the bush was part of the allure of Lower
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Zambezi National Park, a 4,000-square kilometer piece of riverfront land about a half-hour’s flight south of Lusaka. Though Zambia isn’t at the top of most people’s safari lists, it should be. Zambia’s guides are renowned beyond the country’s borders, and better park management and increased tourism revenue have helped to greatly reduce poaching. o roads lead to the park, so visitors must come via boat or prop plane; the latter lands on one of three red-dirt airstrips inside the park that often have to be cleared of zebras and warthogs. Formerly a private game reserve for Zambian ex-President Kenneth Kaunda, the park is now home to just six small camps, which means visitors are more likely to see resident wildlife as opposed to safari truck convoys. And there’s plenty of wildlife to see. Despite the park’s small size, it boasts most of the big game that bring people to Africa, plus more than 300 different bird species. After the rainy season has passed and the watering holes have dried up, the animals all come to drink at the river, which means those six riverfront camps are perfectly positioned for wildlife viewing. My husband and I split our visit there between Chiawa Camp, the first one established after the national park’s creation in 1983, and Old Mondoro, a more rustic and intimate camp a 45-minute boat ride downstream. The park has distinct regions, and the two camps are situated in completely different terrain. Dense shrubs, behind which lions hide while eyeing their prey, characterize the area around Chiawa, while large acacia trees with low-hanging, thick branches—perfect leopard perches—dominate the terrain downstream. We were up before the sun each day (the animals don’t sleep in, so we couldn’t either) to explore the area by safari truck, boat, canoe or even on foot. Zambia is, after all, the
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Dr. Livingstone, I Presume No visit to Zambia is complete without a stop in Livingstone, next door to Victoria Falls. The local name for the falls, Mosi oa Tunya, means “the smoke that thunders.” When water levels are high, the towering clouds of mist can be seen clearly from downtown Livingstone, six miles away. The falls are at their mightiest in May and June, making the viewing experience a very wet one. The flow slows to a comparative trickle by the end of the year, which means each individual waterfall is clearly visible, and activities like whitewater rafting or taking a dip in the Devil’s Swimming Pool (literally inches from where the water plummets 360 feet down) are available. The Royal Livingstone Hotel, situated on the banks of the Zambezi River just upstream from the falls, offers luxurious rooms, and wildlife viewing right from your window—giraffes and zebras freely roam the grounds of the hotel. Rates start at $653 for double occupancy, including breakfast and national park fees.
Inside the canvas tent at Chiawa Camp
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birthplace of the walking safari. Listening to bird calls and examining termite mounds, we saw the bush in a way that we never could have in a noisy safari vehicle. Every day brought a new adventure, whether it was hooking tigerfish in the river or finding lion cubs playing in the tall grass. And each evening, we paused to engage in another safari ritual: the sundowner. No matter what we were doing at the time, as soon as the sun began to sink below the horizon, we would stop, prepare drinks and watch the sky turn various shades of orange, pink and purple as we discussed the lasting memories we’d just made. Lower Zambezi National Park is open from mid-April until mid-November. Prices for Chiawa Camp range from $595 to $895 per person per day, depending on the time of year. Old Mondoro’s rates begin at approximately $600 per person per day. Rates include transportation within the park, all activities, food and drinks.
FITNESS
Healthy Hedonism
ALLOW YOUR INNER ZUMBA STAR TO BREAK FREE. BY SHIRA LEVINE
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he thumping beats are so infectious that it’s impossible not to react with a swish of the hips. Zumba, the fitness dance craze everyone seems to be shaking their moneymaker to these days, elicits a whole lot more than a toe tap. And after an hour of sweaty dance party fun, you’ll find you’ve melted away up to 1,000 calories, says Irena Meletiou (pictured at right), a choreographer and New York-based Zumba instructor. Imagine, turning exercise into a party—minus the cocktails and stilettos, of course! So what is Zumba? Think 60 percent Latin dance using the basic steps of samba, salsa, cumbia, mambo and cha-cha. Add 40 percent hip-hop, reggaeton, West African and belly dancing-inspired moves. Pump up the energy with a fast pop music tempo and you’ve got aerobic cardio that works just about every muscle in your body. Classes are taught in groups where everyone works it collectively (not competitively). No worrying about counting steps, judging technique, or scrutinizing yourself for form and precision. Zumba is about freestyling at your own pace and level. In fairness, the first class you take may not be your Footloose moment. Unless you’re an experienced dancer, it may take a few tries to let go completely and feel your sexiest. Zumba is something “everyone can do,” says Meletiou. “Only if you can’t bend your knees… then give up because dancing is not for you.” “You get quick, easy, effective results for all body types,” she says. “It’s about partying and one goal: having fun. The fitness and strength are just a bonus.”
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Zumba instructors all add their own flavor to the universal format. Meletiou teaches a master class with a half hour of technical instruction followed by an hour of class, so people can really connect with the fun and sexy choreography. The whole Zumba phenom started back in 2001, thanks to the marketing magic and savvy dance skills of two Albertos. Alberto “Beto” Perez, a Colombian dancer and choreographer, accidentally started the craze when he forgot his aerobics tapes for a class. Instead he played some salsa and meringue music. The class was a hit and he soon brought popular music from around the world to soundtrack his global footwork. Alberto #1 then met Alberto #2 (Perlman), the CEO of Zumba Fitness. The two have turned an impromptu exercising dance party into a well-marketed global brand replete with clothing and retail products. (Zumba is a Colombian word used to describe the buzz of a bee.) Under the Zumba brand more than 20,000 instructors have been trained across 35 countries, and over 3 million DVDs have been purchased. “I was in Berlin and took a Zumba class. Even Germans can dance like they are in Puerto Rico!” says Ashlynn Vanessa Manning, a licensed Zumba instructor, who first learned of the program through her mother. “It brings this exciting part of Latin American culture to the rest of the world. It’s moving with the music and feeling the music, with a whole community of people doing it right there beside you.” For many trying to lose weight or get toned, it’s a godsend to be so busy workin’ it that you forget you’re actually working out! Let loose with wild abandon; in this healthy hedonism the only protection you’ll need is a bottle of water to keep you hydrated.
ART
Man’s Best Friend In The Spotlight Animated Dogs Come to Life Paul Fierlinger’s parents were caught up in an international life of Czech politics, diplomacy and intrigue. They had little time for or interest in their young child. When they were called back to Czechoslovakia from the States, they left Paul with an American foster family they’d found through a newspaper ad. To cope with this benign neglect, Paul found solace in the company of loveable dogs. At the tender age of 10, due to a regime change in Czechoslovakia, Paul was abruptly yanked from the American home he’d come to call his own and sent off to an elite boarding school in Prague (future playwright and president Vacel Havel and film director Milos Forman were his schoolmates). Miserable, homesick for America, and unable to speak the language, Paul expressed himself through drawing. It turned out he had quite a talent. Art school followed, coupled with an intense desire to return to the U.S. (no mean feat during the Communist era).
Eventually, using his artistic talent to forge documents, Fierlinger escaped to America. Over time, as his acclaim as an animator grew, Paul and his wife Sandra, a fine arts painter, began to create animated films together. Shown on PBS and at prestigious film festivals such as Sundance and the Toronto Film Festival, their work received numerous Peabody Awards, an Oscar nomination for Best Animated Short, and several other major film festival awards. Paul’s lifelong love of dogs informed many of these projects. Some favorites include the award-winning films Still Life with Animated Dogs, starring dogs Paul had come to love over his lifetime, and Drawn From Memory, an autobiographical film featuring the canine companions that helped him survive those unhappy years in Czechoslovakia. In their latest feature from New Yorker Films, My Dog Tulip (based on Above: Painter Juan Torcoletti used his love of dogs to turn his life around by painting their portraits.
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© JUAN TORCOLETTI/BOLTAX.GALLERY
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, FROM THE EARLIEST CAVE PAINTINGS TO CONTEMPORARY CANVASES, ARTISTS HAVE BEEN INSPIRED BY DOGS. TODAY, THESE ARTISTS BRING A UNIQUE VISION TO THEIR WORK. BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE
British author J.R. Ackerley’s book), an animated German Shepherd gets top billing alongside the voices of Christopher Plummer, Lynn Redgrave and Isabella Rossellini.
Through a Photographer’s Lens Award-wining photographer Rosanne Olson is mostly known for her stunning portraits of people. But as she photographed her Knowing Portraits clients, she noticed that their pets were intrigued by the process, often hovering at the edge of the proceedings. Olson became intrigued with them in return and came up with the concept of photographing dogs in the painterly style of the Old Masters. Her regal dog portraits à la Thomas Gainsborough and John Singer Sargent look as if lit by the natural light of a window. “When photographing dogs—and children—I am very patient,” explains Olson. “Sometimes it works quickly and sometimes it takes a while—there’s no forcing anything. Animals (and kids) are so honest. They don’t know how to ‘fake it;’ that’s something we learn as we grow up.
dressed in black leather with two black dogs, a Rottweiler and a German Shepherd. In a stroke of bad luck, the Rottweiler bit me so badly that I had to go to the hospital for stitches. “I wanted to sue the lady, but felt sorry for the dogs. Also, because I was here illegally, I feared being sent back to South America. I was happy and in love with New York City, fully determined to fulfill my American dream. “At first, to ‘heal’ myself from the frightening experience with that Rottweiler, I painted dogs with ferocious teeth, wild dogs and all black ones. I started selling my paintings on the street, at the corner of Prince and Greene. Luckily, many sales followed. “I had famous clients such as Giorgio Armani and many artists. Also, neighborhood residents and tourists bought my work. But, finally, I was arrested for selling on the street and was almost deported. However, fortune smiled and I got my paintings back—and my freedom—as well as my papers and a green card. So, I decided to change my life and stop selling my work on the street. I started doing dog portraits on request. “First, I’d meet the dogs and their owners (the clients), do sketches,
HAVE A HEART
© ROSANNE OLSON/GETTY IMAGES
Other ways to help: Visit 4pawsforability.org, which provides service dogs to people with disabilities; www.humanesociety.org, the nation’s largest animal protection organization; or www.aspca.org, which rescues and shelters abused and neglected animals. Left: Esther the Great Dane, as photographed by Rosanne Olson, has the regal look of Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy. Top Right: Art imitates life. In the award-winning Still Life with Animated Dogs, Paul Fierlinger gets his dog Spinnaker to do a barking “voice over.” Bottom Right: In the film, Paul Fierlinger also goes sailing with Spinnaker. “I simply try to make photographing them an enjoyable experience so that the expressions I get reflect the genuine feelings of the subject.” Yes, you can almost see the dogs smiling.
Canine Creatures on Canvas Argentine painter Juan Torcoletti’s inspiration for painting dogs is best told in his own words: “My history painting dogs was born in the streets of New York. I had just moved to the city in 1993 and found a place in Soho. One morning, like any other, I went for coffee at Dean & Deluca on Prince Street. I passed a lady
make drawings and take photos. Afterwards, I’d work on the paintings in my studio (by then, I’d moved to an old storage building in Tribeca with a hotplate and a bathroom down the hall). That’s where I lived until I became disillusioned with my beloved America. And, when I started painting ferocious dogs again, I knew it was time to move back to Buenos Aires.” Since 2004, Juan Torcoletti and his amazing dog portraits have been represented by boltax.gallery on Shelter Island, New York. These very different portraits by this group of talented artists pay tribute to the long relationship people have had with dogs—not only as hunters, guardians and guides, but as loving companions.
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© PAUL & SANDRA FIERLINGER/AR&T ASSOCIATES, INC.
Animator Paul Fierlinger and Mutts cartoonist Patrick McDonnell teamed up to create commercials for The Shelter Pet Project (www.theshelterpetproject.org) to encourage people to adopt a pet.
HIS SIDE
Romancing the Stone MY ROCKY EXPERIENCES BUYING JEWELRY FOR GIRLFRIENDS BY MICHAEL GIULIETTI
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was 10 and at an Italian ski resort the first time I gave jewelry to a female. She was 18, beautiful, and to prove my love, I left a gift of shiny dark purple beads by her door, a bold move I was sure would make up for our eight-year age difference. She sweetly accepted the gift but turned down my proposal of undying devotion. Heartbroken, I was not yet aware that this would be the last time I’d give a gift of jewelry without trepidation. While dating Jen, a professional dancer, I considered buying her a ring but quickly decided it would represent a commitment I wasn’t ready to make. Instead, I chose an ornate crystal choker that ended up being so tight that it cut off her air supply. Although she had left magazines open to pages featuring her favorite jewelry designer, I’d been oblivious to these not-sosubtle hints. We broke up six months later. I soon met Arianna. For her birthday, I purchased a Turkish handcrafted sterling silver necklace with a carved pendant. Upon careful examination, the carving revealed a well-endowed naked man with open arms. Aware of possible misinterpretations, I worried: Was I showing sexual insecurity? Was it in really bad taste? But when I gave it to Arianna, she was delighted and wore the piece close to her heart. Ultimately the guy in the carving would remain in her life a lot longer than I would. Moving to New York from my native Milan, I started dating Bettina, a style writer who dragged me to esoteric jewelry exhibits at various museums. “I don’t want to see a bunch of jewelry,” I protested in response to a Castellani exhibit. “But it’s as much your heritage as the Vatican and its frescoes,” Bettina replied as I marveled at the intricate pieces behind the glass cases. The word for ‘jewel’ in Italian is related to ‘joy’ and I wanted to give Bettina a sense of gioia di vivere. She loves rose cut diamonds, so I picked out a pair of stones and had them made into drop earrings, one-of-a-kind, just like her. It’s the closest I’ve come to truly committing to a woman with a gift of jewelry. And while I’m now more adept at taking hints, I’m still hoping to recapture the courageous young boy who declared his feelings with unabashed audacity and an open heart.
© D.YURMAN 2011
LEE MICHAELS FINE JEWELRY ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
SPRING/SUMMER 2011