The O riginator of Cult ure d Pe arls.
S i n c e 18 9 3 .
CONTENTS
Fall/Winter 2016 MANN’S JEWELERS 2945 MONROE AVENUE ROCHESTER, NY 14618 585-271-4000
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER NANCY MANN PRESIDENT ROBERT MANN
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DIRECTOR OF MARKETING MEGAN CRAWFORD
PUBLISHED BY T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P
4 Illumannations
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PUBLISHER STU NIFOUSSI EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
6 Fabulous in Rochester
KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
10 From the Runways
C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
16 Hueb: Feminine by Design
HANS GSCHLIESSER
18 Hannah Becker: Doodle Darling MANAGING EDITOR
22 As Seen On…
JILLIAN L A ROCHELLE
24 Trends: The Cutting Edge of Edgy
PROJECT MANAGER
28 Amenities: Jet-set Pets
LISA MONTEMORRA
30 Perfect Gems
DESIGNER JEAN-NICOLE VENDITTI
34 Giving Back: Pass it On
PRODUCTION MANAGER
38 Décor: Small Spaces
PEG EADIE
41 Holiday Gift Guide 48 Timepieces: Watch Out!
50 Rolex: Desperately Seeking Daytona 52 Tudor: Return of the Black Bay 54 Speed: The Czar of Historic Racing
Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2016. Accent® is published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 •
56 Joe McKenna: Master of Sweet Sensation
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60 Food: Nuevo Mexico
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64 Top 5: Places to Get Your Poutine Fix
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66 Wine: Sparkling Diversions
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84 Insurance: Better Safe Than Sorry
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70 Natural Wonders 72 Out of the Box 74 #SheSaidYes 76 Top 10 Tips for Big Day Bliss
duced without written permission of the
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Introducing The Artisan Handcrafted Modern Chain Collection
Illumannations
CEO Nancy Mann reflects on life’s moments. A Million Moments I’ve spent a lot of time recently thinking about life, loss and love. I’ve gone through endless boxes of old photos, attended a class reunion (with some trepidation), toasted to future happiness with brides and grooms, and painfully paid my respects to families who feel like they’ve lost their guiding light. The common thread? Memories. Life is made up of a million moments. Some celebratory. Some painful. Some nostalgic. Some exhilarating. But, in the end, all filled with meaning. At Mann’s Jewelers, we are fortunate to play a part in so many moments. There are the more obvious moments, like helping someone select one of the most significant purchases they will ever make, an engagement ring. The technical details of the purchase are nothing in comparison to hearing the story behind the love affair. How did you meet? How will you ask the big question? What about this special person do you love the most? From my side of the counter, what I have gleaned over decades of clients sharing their stories, is that the jewelry we sell isn’t just jewelry. It is most often
something either gifted or self-purchased to represent a significant event. A timepiece for a career milestone or graduation. A unique necklace, ring or bracelet made of colored gemstones, specifically designed to represent the birth of a newborn. An eternity band for an anniversary, an endless ring of diamonds encircling the finger that evokes the sentiment of “forever.” A memorial piece that will commemorate, with a photograph, signature, or lock of hair, your everlasting connection to someone who is physically out of sight, but forever in your heart. Every day we help friends and clients take a piece of their past into their future. Thank you for trusting us. Sharing your stories with us. Supporting us, now, and for generations. We have always worked our hardest to help you translate your millions of moments into something tangible and meaningful; a gift from the heart. We will not let you down.
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THE YACHT-MASTER The emblematic nautical watch embodies a yachting heritage that stretches back to the 1950s. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40
rolex
oyster perpetual and yacht-master are
®
trademarks.
fashion 411
FABULOUS in ROCHESTER Rochester native and all-around style guru Courtney Winslow talks high fashion for fall/holiday.
W
Sutra Jewels earrings with angelskin coral, pink spinel and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $6,500
Lifestyle Images: Alexandra Elise Photography
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ith fall upon us and the buzz of a new school year beginning, I’m feeling nostalgic for lessons learned during my 41 years. I have been a professional student, a therapist, a shop girl, a merchandiser, a wife and a mom. Occasionally, someone asks me where I got my love for fashion. Well, it’s a little bit genetic: I have the most artistic and fashionable people as parents. The other part is, I’ve been daring enough to find my way through the good, the bad and the really ugly. Never being too shy to try new things, to look ridiculous, or to stand out. At the risk of making a mistake now and again, I do it. It’s all part of my journey through this glitzy fabulous world. Looking back, there are a lot of times I should have been very, very embarrassed of what I was wearing. But oddly, I never remember feeling anything but happy and confident. I’m damn proud of those parachute pants. Let’s begin with kindergarten, because that’s where my first memory of fashion stands out. I went to a Catholic school where uniforms in cream, navy and brown plaid were the only choices. When life gives you lemons make lemonade; or in this case, personalize your own uniforms. I clearly remember when the uniforms arrived, my mother’s scissors and sewing machine came out. She hemmed the skirt to well above my knee and used the extra fabric to sew on straps to make it into a jumper. Paired with either a Peter Pan-collared button-down or a monogrammed navy sweater, I was ready to go to school. As my memory serves me, no one complained. No nuns came charging after me at recess, no lectures on the importance of covering my knees. My mother was kind, fabulous and always smiling. It was hard to dispute the sunshine she brought and the pride that I felt in my new clothes. Even at five years old I was unique, not uniform. Let’s move swiftly on to high school, because I think middle school is a follow-the-leader kind of time in our lives and I’m pretty sure that I wore Benetton and headbands every day. High school... well, I must have really had some big kahunas. Inspired by my mother’s amazing closet, and lucky that we were practically the same size, I took whatever I could get my paws on and ran to the bus stop. At 16 I showed up at school in a skintight black mock-turtleneck catsuit—straight out of a George Michael music video. I literally must have had no shame. None. I was confident and proud of this Linda Evangelista-inspired ensemble. Whispers heard down the halls: “What is she thinking?” Not to mention,
Stephen Webster Magnipheasant Plumage earrings with garnet and diamonds in 18K rose gold. $5,400
a balance of the latest trend and your inner truth. A couple of sporty mommy staples are also busting onto the street style scene. Hoodies are making an appearance on the runways, layered under trench coats and blazers. Pairing a high-ticket item like a nautical navy wool coat (and of course some fancy gold buttons) with a marled gray sweatshirt shows that you are keeping up with the trends, not just going straight from work to the gym. Another New Yorker staple that’s gone “I’m so fancy” is the puffer coat. Find one with extra shine and an oversized collar to transform this boring wearable sleeping bag into something you would even wear over an evening gown. Girl, while you were working 9 to 5, the ’80s came back. Dynasty dresses are creeping out of the dark abyss of your closet. This holiday, channel Linda Evans in a one-shoulder mini dress with a structured sleeve. Lamé is bringing sexy back in eveningwear with everything metallic. Chain necklaces in bright gold and sliver are the perfect holiday gift to go with long shiny skirts and tiny tinsel-fringe cocktail dresses. A few more trends that deserve an honorable mention this season: turtlenecks under dresses, camel and caramel hues, bold prints, blush and yellow pairings, capelets, embroidered guitar-strap handbags, pinstripes and gray plaids. Add one or all of these to any ensemble for an Instagramworthy ensemble. Every outfit should tell a story. During my shop girl days in Santa Monica, I was lucky enough to have a job in a fabulous boutique with one of my best friends. We would wait by the door for the new merchandise to come in, then we would go to work, telling a story on each display table. Stacking cozy cashmere sweaters beside glittering gowns, layering t-shirts, jeweled box clutches and knee-high boots with coffee table books about Paris and the Amalfi Coast, beanie hats and perfumed candles. This was my greatest lesson. Tell your story, or one that you dream of, and sell it to the world.
“How the hell did her mother let her leave the house like that?” Well, she let me leave the house alright… only after spraying my hair and letting me borrow the largest silver hoops she had. Finally, my 20s (because everything after that I still stand behind). Wondering do blondes really have more fun? We all want what we can’t have in our 20s, but as usual I found a way. After just a couple dates with a very nice boy, I wore a blond bob wig out to meet some of his friends at a restaurant for drinks. No joke: I stuffed my giant head of brown curly hair into a wig I bought at a costume shop. Wore a sexy mohair sweater and black pants, possibly some glittery eye shadow… I felt awesome. And I apparently did not feel the need to warn him. He came to pick me up and I was someone else, but later he married me for who I am. Yes, I still have the wig and the boy. Fashion has so many lessons to teach us, about being confident, loving yourself, and spreading some kickass unexpected flair out into the world. Don’t be embarrassed to try something out of your comfort zone. Ask Santa for earrings that wrap all the way up your ear, or mismatch basic diamond studs. Feel the confidence that radiates from getting dressed because you are being self expressive, not because you are trying to conform. Velvet has been named the fabric of the season. Channel a Renaissance princess with bell sleeves in dark, medieval-times shades of this luscious fabric and you’ll be on fleek this winter. Take the fabric to accessories with the shoe of the moment: velvet booties. Stand-out ensemble? A long brocade skirt paired with an olive green bomber jacket adorned with fur accents and clever patches, worn with your velvet boots. The ironic nature of pairing these pieces is what makes it “fashion” and not just “getting dressed.” Anyone can take a great dress and add some black pumps. But to really express yourself through fashion you need to find your unique twist;
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®ROBERTOCOIN
POIS MOI COLLECTION
TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01 Chris Hemsworth works hard and chooses his roles carefully. He handles pressure by taming it, and turning it to his advantage. #DontCrackUnderPressure was coined with him in mind.
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designers
An introduction to HUEB, a fabulous family-run line new to Mann’s Jewelers.
FEMININE BY DESIGN
F
rom its beginning, Hueb has represented artistry and quality craftsmanship intertwined to create an exclusive collection of fine jewelry for the modern woman, inspired by a uniquely Brazilian sense of joie de vivre. Positioned to shift the luxury jewelry experience through design, attitude and price, Hueb is a balance of art and innovation. Fádua Hueb, matriarch of the brand, established its roots more than 40 years ago and today the company continues to operate as a family business. Her grandson Thiago (brand director) and his wife, Priscila (creative director), represent the third generation, focused on taking Hueb forward in the U.S. Priscila Hueb has espoused inspiration from Brazil’s unique heritage. “Our warmth as a culture is evident in our designs, which reference the colors of nature and familiar juxtaposition of jungle and cityscapes,” Priscila comments. She adds, “We are very much a women’s jewelry brand: designed, made by, worn and purchased by women. Our pieces are designed and handcrafted by a team of female designers in Brazil, with focus on relatability and wearabilty, using 18-karat gold, high-grade diamonds and natural gemstones, a majority of which are sourced from Brazilian mines.” Hueb’s signature designs feature classical icons with a twist. “We enjoy introducing new collections throughout the year that reflect modern tastes with lasting appeal,” explains Priscila. “It is easy to notice the female influence in our designs as well as our celebratory references to Brazil. We are so happy to see women self-purchasers connect with our designs and reflect on the great value we offer.” Constants throughout the brand’s varied collections include a playful use of color and textures that appeal to women of all ages. Hueb continues to grow internationally, but both Priscila and Thiago assure that they are committed to limited distribution. Steering clear of the mainstream, they maintain that the element of discovery is one of the things that makes Hueb truly special and unique. A beautiful range of designs from Hueb has launched at Mann’s in time for the holiday season.
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interview
DARLING DOODLE
P
hiladelphia-based Hannah Becker is one of the jewelry industry’s most fun-tofollow Instagrammers, brightening our days with lighthearted, pop-culture inspired gem art. Here, she talks about her creative process and how she turned a passion into a business.
industry. I got a job doing production work for Gumuchian, working one-on-one with the jewelers who manufactured the pieces. During this time I started regularly posting what are now known as Diamondoodles.
When did you decide that Diamondoodles was taking off enough that it had the potential to become a business?
What kind of career were you originally planning when you enrolled at GIA? I studied art history at Bard College, and my senior thesis was about glitter as a material in contemporary art. (I like to tell people that I’ve always liked shiny things; I just upgraded from glitter to gemstones!) I wasn’t interested in museum or gallery work, so I ended up starting a branding, social media marketing and web design business with a friend. One day I went with my brother to pick out an engagement ring for my now-sister-in-law. We visited the jeweler who had sold our dad our BY JILLIAN mom’s engagement ring, and he was very personable, telling us all about the diamonds and how they are certified. That’s how I learned that GIA had educational programs. Even though I was enjoying my small business, I still felt that I hadn’t 100% hit on what I wanted to do career-wise. I had always been fascinated by fashion and accessories, jewelry in particular. It seemed like this path combined my passion for gems and sparkles with my art history education. Within six months I was at GIA and eventually earned my Graduate Gemologist certification; I also did the CAD Jewelry Design program. I wanted to design and I knew this would be a great access point into the
My assignment with Gumuchian ended after nine months because I had been filling in for someone on maternity leave. I was interviewing for other jobs, but I realized I was passionate about trying to build something of my own. The jewelry industry is full of small family businesses, and though I don’t come from a family business, that idea resonated with me. Since I had marketing experience, I was able to soon get a project for a large gem company, designing their trade show materials for the Tucson Gem Show. I picked up a few other small clients— LAROCHELLE creating original artwork and window displays, doing graphic layouts—and began officially working for myself in January 2015. Most people have a company before they have to brand it, but I had a brand before I really knew what I was going to do with it. It’s been a process deciding what types of projects I want to take on.
A discussion with HANNAH
BECKER, the talented GIA Graduate Gemologist and artist also known as Instagram’s Diamondoodles.
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Creating doodles with gems seems like an expensive endeavor! Where do the gems come from? A vast majority of them are on loan from clients, and I usually only have a small rainbow on hand to work from. One thing people are surprised to
learn is that Diamondoodles are very temporary. As soon as I finish a piece and photograph it, the gems all go back to their homes.
least every other day, and some days my brain just isn’t working creatively. I’ll send out a group text begging, “Send words to me! I don’t even care if they’re great ideas!” Maybe it’ll take my mind somewhere. When I hit 20,000 followers, I asked for suggestions on what people wanted to see; the Hawaiian shirt was an idea from a follower and I really love that one.
Does it make you a little sad sometimes to destroy all your hard work? Yes! But because it’s been part of the process from the beginning, I’m pretty used to it at this point. I never realized how alarming it was to other people until I took one apart in front of a friend. He was horrified! It’s not as glamorous behind the scenes. I don’t have hundreds of pieces of art sitting around my house, but I do keep the “skeletons”—the little doodles that the gems go into—for my own records.
Do you stumble upon inspirational gems and want to build something around them, or do you get ideas for a finished doodle first and then wait for the right gems to come along?
Do you create sponsored posts on your Instagram feed? It’s less that I create sponsored content, more that if I’m hired to do a project, I’m happy to share it with my followers. I only take on work that I’m excited to share! I consider Instagram to be my portfolio, in a way.
Are there any stones you particularly like working with?
A little bit of both. There have been times when I wanted to do something and had to wait a really long time until I came across the right stones for it. And other times I’m inspired by the gems in front of me. I like working with smaller stones in general, because they give me more control over creating forms.
I recently did a tennis ball made of chrysoberyl, and that was cool because it’s got a neon, citron character. That stone is unfamiliar to the greater world. I also did a lemonade stand made of yellow diamonds with grass made out of green diamonds. That was exciting, because natural color diamonds are rare and hard to come by. I’ve been trying to include more information about the stones in my posts; I think gemstones are fascinating and it’s fun to let people know what’s special about a stone. Beyond the fact that it’s crazy that the Earth makes these things!
How has your work evolved in the two years you’ve been creating Diamondoodles?
Do you think of yourself as being in the art world or the jewelry world?
The most noticeable change is that I’ve gotten so much better at photographing them. It’s difficult to photograph gemstones, and to get a clean background. I usually take about 30 to 40 photographs of each one, just to get the angle and the lighting right. At the beginning the world was my oyster, but now it’s harder to come up with ideas. I try to keep my Instagram fresh with a new post at
I tend to think of myself as being in the jewelry industry. I did a lot of fine art in high school, but it was never as refined as my classmates’ work. My drawings were always a little wonky, which is where my aesthetic is even now. Everything looks like what it needs to look like, but never the most pristine version. So I always felt a little bit off in that regard. But I do think what I do is artistic. I’m starting to realize I’m an artist in my own right.
HANNAH’S PICKS
“Bold and colorful tends to be my jewelry style,” says Becker. “I gravitate toward big pieces and I love a mix of colors. Playful jewelry that can be formal but also dressed down is worth the investment.” Left to right: Stephen Webster Lady Stardust bracelet Marco Bicego Murano collection drop earrings David Yurman 18K rose gold and cognac diamond pinky ring Ippolita Rock Candy turquoise drop-shaped necklace Stephen Webster Magnipheasant pendant
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spotted Rihanna wore Mikimoto at her RiRi fragrance launch.
Gigi Hadid wore Sutra to the American Music Awards. Emma Watson wore John Hardy while lighting the Empire State Building.
As Seen On... Our favorite stars share a love for our favorite brands! BY JILLIAN L ROCHELLE A
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Amy Robach wore Roberto Coin on the Good Morning America set.
Jennifer Lopez wore Stephen Webster on the American Idol set.
Olivia Wilde wore John Hardy to the NBA All-Star Game. Robin Roberts wore David Yurman at The Academy Awards.
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trends
TheCutting Edgeof
EDGY S
ome seasons, jewelry is front-and-center in fashion, and for fall/winter 2016 that’s surely the case. “Runways from New York to across the Atlantic have shown us that the most current looks are about notice-me accessories. Obviously, that includes high-drama jewels,” says fashion forecaster David Wolfe, creative director at international trend forecasting agency The Doneger Group. There’s a cool, modern edginess to almost everything. In fine jewelry, it’s done imaginatively and differently by each brand. Some designs are asymmetric. Some are formed in mixes of yellow gold, black gold and oxidized silver. And some FOCUS ON BLACK OR GRAY GEMS AS KEY ELEMENTS. Wolfe reminds us that fashion trends today last longer than they used to, and he affirms that black and gray have remained strong since last year. Asymmetry on the catwalks has also been a huge influence. “Look at all the zigzag hemlines and waistlines,” Wolfe urges, identifying them as part of “the new disruptive dressing”—disruptive in a good way, where many of those old “rules” of style are broken.
Non-traditional nuances are new in jewelry. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
KEY EDGY ESSENTIALS Certainly, mismatched earrings are indispensable this season. Earlier this year it was one of the most talked-about jewelry looks on Hollywood’s red carpets. Jewelry blogger Becky Stone, editor in chief and founder of DiamondsInTheLibrary.com, believes fun-to-wear mismatched earrings will become even more popular going forward. It’s a confident look to say the least! “Hoops, too,” she notes, “particularly bigger and atypical ones, with unexpected angles or embellishments.” With 75,000 followers on Instagram alone, Stone has noticed that, as more designers are doing asymmetrical, people are embracing it. “With bracelets, for example, I think you’re going to see a lot more non-traditional sculptural forms by the end of the year.” Time to talk about layering. It’s been trending for several seasons and you’re sure to see it continue. “However, some jewelry tailoring is starting, which means bigger, MORE STATEMENT PIECES and not as much stacking,” says jewelry writer and blogger Cathleen McCarthy, founder and editor of TheJewelryLoupe.com. Fashion for holiday and into next year is perfect for accessorizing with larger jewelry, agrees Wolfe, noting, “With the new erogenous zone being the shoulder (given all the off-the-shoulder clothes that allow for one or both to be bare) the time is now for big necklaces and earrings—notice-me jewelry!”
HOW TO WALK ON JEWELRY’S DARK SIDE Top: Roberto Coin Bottom: Stephen Webster
Some of the most innovative and exciting edgy designs are in blackened metals. “Yellow gold beautifully continues to trend,” confirms Stone, “but
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a momentary sanctuary from the efforts of your every day
DELMONTESPA .COM
there’s a lot more blackened metal as well.” Notably, distinctive, unconventional designs in blackened gold [aka rhodium-plated white gold] and oxidized sterling silver. McCarthy adds, “Dark titanium, too. Rose gold is also still on-trend, and I especially like the way certain luxury jewelry brands are MIXING GOLD WITH BLACK GOLD or oxidized silver.” There are many rich yellow gold pendants, for instance, on dark metal chains of all types, including links. “A great way to create edgy style this year,” McCarthy advises, “is to layer some blackened jewelry with your yellow or rose gold.” So, for example, if you’re stacking three, four or five bangles, even one dark-hued bracelet added in the middle will instantly give your overall jewelry look that trending avant-garde feeling.” Another good suggestion on how to get started accessorizing with edgy contemporary jewelry? Buy one great graphic piece: perhaps a theatrical two-finger ring, upward-trailing ear climbers, or A STRONG CHOKER/COLLAR, EITHER OPEN-ENDED OR CLOSED, as both are hot in fashion.
A FEW FRINGE GEMS (& COLORS) AT THE FOREFRONT Do not—I repeat: do not!—forget to buy some new jewelry with black or gray gemstones. Black diamonds, fancy black sapphires and black spinel are especially important. Both McCarthy and Stone like the way more and more artisanal collections are now featuring these untraditional gems. Stone suggests that, for fall/winter, when searching for an original piece of colored stone jewelry to add to your wardrobe, be sure to look beyond the “Big Three”: ruby, blue sapphire and emerald. “I’ve actually seen an uptick in interest in yellow sapphires, so you should definitely ask your jeweler
about them,” says Stone. This isn’t a gem that’s typically in the edgy stone category but, as she reminds us, “Yellow sapphire is such a joyful gem—so vibrant and vivacious.” Right now and into 2017, the whole spectrum of fancy sapphires is in fashion—as are all the many shades of spinel. “Some spectacular spinel jewelry was premiered this year, and it’s refreshing,” notes Stone, “because, unfortunately, spinel tends to go under-appreciated.” Just recently, the jewelry industry named spinel as an additional birthstone for those born in August. Ask your jeweler to show you some modern spinel jewelry in its many different colors, from fiery reds and oranges to dark and edgy black beauties, from pastel lavenders to blues and greens. Speaking of blues and greens, McCarthy says, “There are so many shimmery ones for fall/winter—opal, moonstone and blue-toned labradorite, especially—and triplets, too, which are designed to create their own watery light show. Frequently with triplets, A BOTTOM LAYER OF MOTHER OF PEARL LENDS GLIMMER TO SLICE OF COLOR, EMERALD FOR EXAMPLE, all viewed through a transparent rock crystal prism.” Another gem that was, for a long time, somewhat off the grid in modern affordable jewelry is the Tahitian pearl. Well, it’s back—big-time—in its natural kaleidoscopic hues of black, gray, eggplant and dark green/blue. “Pearls, especially Tahitians, are everywhere this season,” McCarthy tells us, “big and small, and sometimes creatively carved, too.” As you think forward to your jewelry wardrobe for spring/summer, it will be more important than ever to own a few pieces of gray gemstone jewelry. So it’s definitely not too soon to start talking with your jeweler about your everyday style and start looking for a piece that’s fashioned with on-trend grays like Tahitian pearls, or slate-shaded labradorite, hematite, moonstone or mother of pearl.
Buy one great graphic piece: perhaps a theatrical two-finger ring, upward-trailing ear climbers, or a strong choker/collar, either open-ended or closed, as both are hot in fashion.
Center: Mann’s Jewelers Right: Stephen Webster
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amenities
Jet-set
PETS
Have furry friends, will travel. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
E
xtra socks, check. Phone charger, check. Pomeranian, check. That’s right: millions of Americans these days are choosing to bring their beloved animal companion with them when traveling, whether for vacation or a special family occasion. But depending on where you’re going (and how long you’re going for), it’s not always as easy as making sure you’ve packed your cosmetic case.
GETTING THERE Experienced pet owners say if your destination is within driving distance (and Spot can fit in the backseat), traveling by car can often be simpler than flying. Just make sure you stop every four hours or so to let the dog walk and do his/her business, and never leave the pet in a car alone. If you must fly, don’t plan the trip last minute. Be aware that every airline has different policies—although few allow dogs larger than 20 pounds in the cabin. (Do you really want your pet in cargo?) Fees vary wildly. So do each airline’s rules as to how many pets are allowed on each individual flight, so booking as early as possible is advised. And get to the airport well in advance, as you may need extra time at security or before boarding to ensure your companion’s comfort and safety.
BEING THERE Tip number one: Standard policy at any hotel is that the pet cannot be in the room without his human companion. Fortunately, many chains will arrange for pet sitters or dog walkers upon request.
Kimpton Hotels, considered by many to be the most petaccommodating of hotel groups, will also provide water bowls, treats, pet beds, toys and pooperscooper bags. Some of their hotels go one step further, including an outdoor “Doggie Happy Hour,” where owners can sip and savor offerings from the hotel’s restaurant while pets are treated to their own delights. (Kimpton also happily houses cats, birds, and other pets of most any sort.) Meanwhile, at the Four Seasons Beverly Hills, the pet bowls are specially filled with Evian water. Many members of the Ritz-Carlton and Marriott family of hotels also do their utmost to accommodate canine companions. (That said, all hotels do not let pets into their restaurants or any area serving food, and leashes must be used in indoor public areas.) Some boutique hotels are going one step further. The Enchante Boutique Hotel in Los Altos, California not only provides some pet-friendly rooms with patios, but also offers all pets a welcome package including organic biscuits, and sells chef-made organic pet treats and other wonderful items in its gift shop. (The hotel also has agreements with a nearby dog behaviorist and a professional pet photographer.) Unsurprisingly, the Cypress Inn in Carmel, California—co-owned by actress and animal activist Doris Day—has a special area where you can wash off your pet after a walk on the nearby beach, and offers cozy petblankets for in-room use, among other amenities. So for those humans who consider their pets part of the family, there’s no reason not to include your beloved animal companion in the family fun of traveling.
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PerfectGEMS
Explore the little luxuries the world has to offer. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON & ADENA MILLER
THE GOLD S TA N DA R D We already know how lovely gold can look on your neck, wrists or ears, but it turns out it’s even better on your face. Euphorie Cosmetics’ Le Royal Luxury 24K Gold skincare line uses the precious metal in everything from an antiaging eye mask to a cellular serum, all-day moisturizer, facial peeling gel, night cream and filler cream—and with good reason. Gold restores lost elasticity to tissue, slows down collagen depletion and breaks down elastin to prevent sagging skin. Now, your face’s luster can match the shine of your favorite pieces of jewelry!
PUBLIC ART BY LOCAL TREASURE
Those who visit the Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley can’t miss the largerthan-life symbolic sculpture of Mondavi’s head. The 3,000-pound copper work of art was commissioned by Constellation Brands chairman Richard Sands, and created by one of Rochester’s renowned treasures, artist Leonard Urso. His paintings and sculptures draw from human contemporary culture and are exhibited throughout the world, as well as in private collections. Prophets, which features five 12-foot tall copper figures, is one of his major local sculptures on display at the Bausch & Lomb headquarters. As an endowed professor at the School of American Crafts at Rochester Institute of Technology for 34 years, Urso continues to teach metals, jewelry designs, furniture and sculpture to the next generation.
BALI HIGH As if lolling on the sandy beaches of Bali wasn’t enough to lure you to this tropical paradise, the Ritz Carlton Bali has added another temptation. Their special Sarong Concierge, Tresna Dewi, will take guests on a half-day journey that includes seeing samples of local textiles used to make sarongs, visiting an artisan workshop to witness the behindthe-scenes production process of Endek (Bali’s capital’s official cloth), getting an etiquette lesson on how to wear and walk elegantly in the garment, and then visiting a nearby Hindu temple, clad in their sarongs, where they can take in the site’s beautiful décor and hand carvings. Is there a better way to be a local culture vulture?
30
PerfectGEMS
The LUXURY of LAUGHTER C
artoons are always good for a laugh, but sometimes, they’re equally good at making us take a closer look at society. Nowhere was that truer than the cartoons featured from 1877 to 1917 in the magazine Puck, many of which are on display as part of With a Wink and a Nod: Cartoonists of the Golden Age at Chicago’s Richard H. Dreihaus Museum. The exhibition, which features 74 rare original drawings for the magazine, also includes illustrated commentary on America’s upper class by such artists as Samuel Ehrhart, Louis Dalrymple and Franklin Howarth. A companion exhibition, Gilded Age Luxury, showcases more than a dozen small luxury goods from the same period, including J.P. Morgan’s own walking stick. We suggest you run and see it before January 8, when these exhibits will close.
M
Heavenly REST
ost beds are for getting a good night of ZZZs, but not Swiss artist Conor Mccreedy’s latest art installation, My Blue Heaven. This ingenious, glass-encased design uses the artist’s famous Mccreedyblue pigment combined with the finest white leather, gold/brass pin buttons, and, most importantly, a specially created bed from Bernarda Beds made from the finest micro wood and top-quality silver. The wood base under the box spring was crafted from naturally fallen Austrian trees so it absorbs humidity, and the silver technology prevents any germs. As for the mattress, forget Sealy or Serta—it was personally commissioned and modeled exactly on the artist’s body and weight, movements and comforts. This one-of-a-kind work is currently traveling the world’s most renowned art fairs, and is expected to be on view during Art Basel Miami in December.
32
THANKS
for the memories
Contrary to popular belief, not everyone finds taking a great photograph as easy as point and shoot. For travelers who lack even the most basic camera skills, or want to leave both their camera and cell phone behind, there’s Flytographer. This very clever service, now available in 175 of the world’s major cities, connects you online with one of its 350 qualified photographers, who can join you on your trip and capture those precious memories clearly and beautifully. And while the results are not instantly available, you only have to wait a mere five business days to see the finished product—which you’ll then have a lifetime to savor.
giving back
PASS IT ON How to instill philanthropic values in the next generation. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
T
o whom much is given, much is expected. But how can you foster a spirit of giving back so that your children actually want to make a meaningful contribution to society? Inspired by a “MultiGenerational Philanthropic Families” panel at Town & Country’s recent Philanthropy Summit, we offer advice from youth and parents who have risen to the challenge. LEAD BY EXAMPLE Barbara Bush, daughter of President George W. and Laura Bush, recalled being 18 years old and “very much searching for my own purpose when my father became president. I was lucky to be born to parents who showed me the world. I saw how much joy they, as well as my grandparents, got from working to help others. I realized I wanted to use my energy to solve problems.” She was especially moved by a trip to Africa, where she saw firsthand that an HIV diagnosis was a death sentence in the
“I can help because I can take on risk.” EMILY TISCH SUSSMAN
34
developing world. She witnessed people getting sick because of unsanitary clinic conditions, and felt the frustration of poorly run supply chains that failed to deliver even basic medicines to the people who needed them. “I knew we had the science to fix this, but it’s an issue of access,” she explained. Bush went on to co-found Global Health Corps, dedicated to mobilizing young leaders to solve the world’s largest health challenges; last year, 6,000 people applied for 150 openings in paid fellowships. “Exposure is everything,” she said. “Seeing you engaged in your passion will help others find theirs.” START SMALL This should apply to both the age of your children and the scope of the charity work you involve them in. “With young kids, it starts by trying to get them to understand gratitude, generosity, compassion and empathy,” said Matt Winslow, COO of Cerion and member of the board of The Sands Family Foundation. Constellation Brands founder Marvin Sands, and his sons Richard and Rob, brought these values to both company and family. Now Matt and his wife Courtney (Richard’s daughter) strive to pass them
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on to their own young children. “As they get older, kids start to notice the challenges in our society and discover there are people who are struggling. I’m a big believer that you don’t want children to feel a burden. The goal is to get them to want to give back from within themselves.” He recommends involving kids in small acts they can have fun doing, like choosing toys they no longer play with to donate to area children in need. “Around the holidays we also go out to purchase books for city schools. The kids can wrap their heads around this: ‘I have a lot of books that I like to read, and I can help get books to kids who don’t have them.’ It’s never too soon to start being good people and good citizens.” Winslow’s children are enrolled in Rochester, New York’s Harley School, which echoes the values taught at home with an emphasis on “empathy education” and a commitment to community service. As the British adage reminds us, “Charity begins at home but should not end there.” ON’T PUSH Once kids enter the teen years, pushing them can often lead to pushback. “We struggle with how to get our kids interested in giving back,” admitted Mark Kennedy Shriver in conversation with Town & Country editor Jay Fielden. Shriver, who works with Save the Children, comes from a family famous for its generous spirit (father Sargent Shriver was the first director of the Peace Corps, sister Maria helms Architects of Change, brother Tim is CEO of the Special Olympics, and the list goes on), but an effort is required to ensure that the family legacy continues. “They participate as buddies with Special Olympics athletes, which they really enjoy.” But with so much happening in teens’ lives these days, “it’s difficult to get their attention,” he says. Shriver recalled his own home growing up, which was filled with energy. He saw that a lot of work was involved in affecting social change, but that the work could lead to big results—and could offer a lot of fun throughout the process. Shriver notes that his parents always worked alongside their friends and family, and suggests using this angle to get teens to participate; they’re more likely to head to a charity event if they think of it as something fun to do with friends.
“Seeing you engaged in your passion will help others find theirs.” BARBARA BUSH
D
“It’s okay to challenge the status quo and do things differently than those before you. We want the irony to spark conversation: ‘If this family is divesting in fossil fuels, maybe we should too...’” JUSTIN ROCKEFELLER 36
LET THEM CHOOSE “My family is wonderful! But I had to get out of New York to have a chance of finding my own way,” explained Emily Tisch Sussman of New York City’s philanthropic Tisch family. “When you’re born into privilege, there’s an assumption that you inherit the money and the name, not always the tenacity, drive and intelligence. But I was encouraged to find my own way to contribute.” Sussman attended Skidmore College and eventually returned to the city to pursue her law degree. She remembered seeing schoolmates forced to take jobs they weren’t passionate about in order to start repaying their college loans, and was thankful she had the opportunity to pursue a career in the public sector without financial stresses. “I’m coming from a stable place, but I saw people who had to take jobs at firms they hated because they had debt. I can help because I can take on risk.” While her parents’ charitable efforts center largely on the arts and education, Sussman has found her own passion fighting for the civil rights of others and encouraging youth participation in the political process. She is currently the campaign director for the Center for American Progress and previously served as executive director of the Young Democrats of America. When it comes to veering from the family path, there may be no more poignant example than that of Justin Rockefeller, whose greatgreat-grandfather John D. Rockefeller Sr. founded and made his fortune on Standard Oil. Now representing the fifth generation, Rockefeller is committed to divesting in fossil fuels, despite the industry ties his surname conjures up. He now works to redirect funds to socially responsible causes. “It’s important to invest effectively and in a way that aligns with your mission. It’s okay to challenge the status quo and do things differently than those before you. We want the irony to spark conversation: ‘If this family is divesting in fossil fuels, maybe we should too...’” Whatever causes spark the interest of your family’s next generation, Winslow suggests showing kids it’s not just about writing a check. “Obviously it’s important to shepherd money to the right places. But give your time and become involved at the ground level to make sure those funds are used intelligently.” Whether it’s social media savvy in the case of older teens, the ability to empathize and connect that’s innate in young children, or your own expertise in management, “we all have a talent that’s needed.”
décor
Small
SPACES
Big style for little kids. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
W
hether they’re preparing to have their home photographed for a shelter magazine or just want to instill good taste from an early age, stylish parents are putting as much attention into the design of their children’s rooms as the rest of their home. And that means designers are having to add kids’ rooms to their repertoire. Fortunately, it doesn’t require a degree in child psychology or familiarity with the latest Disney characters. Stylish and functional children’s rooms have nothing to do with fantasy themes and everything to do with quality and taste. For interior designer Susanna Salk, the market for sophisticated children’s furniture and design has been growing for about a decade. In 2010 she wrote Room for Children: Stylish Spaces For Sleep And Play, which she calls the first-ever book on the topic. “In shelter magazines you never used to see where the kids lived,” she says, “and then suddenly magazines started putting kids jumping up and down on fabulous furniture on their covers. Parents today want to extend the style and function of their home into the children’s
And in this case, succeeding. “Give kids more credit,” Salk advises. “They don’t need dumbed-down-design rooms. Let them play a role and chances are they’ll take better care of it.” As for designers, Salk says they should treat design for kids the same as for grown-ups. “It’s just another room of the house, so ask ‘What do you love, what makes you happy, what do you need for this room to be functional?’” Cultivating taste in children at a young age is, of course, subject to the whims of fashion, which are always in motion. “As with fashion, kids’ furniture and design follows trends,” says Sasso Sidi Said, owner of New York-based Dodo Les Bobos, which offers children’s furniture and design services. “For a while it’s been black, white and gray, and geometric patterns. The parents like it as it’s away from the classic pink and blue, but girls from toddler to pre-teen are still very much into all shades of pink.” Kids can be fickle with their interests and change comes rapidly during adolescence, but high-end children’s interior design is meant to better
rooms, and give them the same attention and imagination that they’re giving to the rest of the house.” That imagination doesn’t include theme rooms, however, and Salk was adamant about not including them in her book. “The nicer the room, the less you’re going to need to change it. Why spend $10,000 on a Star Wars theme when in a year the kid will be sick of it?” You might think that getting kids to appreciate fine design is about as easy as getting them to do their homework or eat their vegetables. But, just as with studies and Brussels sprouts, that doesn’t stop parents from trying.
accommodate this change. “Not having theme rooms makes it easier to evolve into another stage,” echoes Said. Although children grow and will need their beds replaced, and will have to trade a toy chest for a study desk, neutral colors in decor make these changes simpler. In the past couple of years, Said has seen the market explode for children’s furniture, most of it Scandinavian and simple in style. “It’s wellthought out, functional, chemical-free and does not sacrifice on design. I think it’s important to give real design furniture to children, and to make them aware of the beauty and the work that was put into creating it.”
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brooklyn S P E C I A L S AV I N G S G O I N G O N N O W
EAST VIEW MALL 585.223.1570 Ask a designer or visit ethanallen.com for details. Sale going on for a limited time. Š2016 Ethan Allen Global, Inc.
Know Your Diamond CARAT WEIGHT
COLOR GRADE
CLARITY GRADE
CUT GRADE
Look for diamonds graded by GIA, the creator of the 4Cs. Learn more at 4Cs.GIA.edu
CARLSBAD
ANTWERP
BANGKOK
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timepieces
WATCH OUT! Why buying and servicing your timepieces with an authorized dealer is more important than ever. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
I
t’s not hard to avoid obvious knockoffs when it comes to luxury watches. Just be careful you’re not ambushed by a Frankenstein. “Frankenstein” is a new watch industry term rapidly spreading among consumers, who are right to be leery. The term refers to watches that have been spliced together from some parts that are genuine and some that are counterfeit. Typically made in Asia, they can easily fool the eye—especially of a buyer blinded by the prospect of getting a great deal. The emergence of Frankenstein watches underscores the importance of buying a fine timepiece from an authorized dealer. “Buying a watch online is like gambling,” says Michael Pollak of Hyde Park Jewelers. “Sometimes you win, but mostly you lose.” And when you lose, you lose big, because these fakes often mimic very expensive models. A consumer spotted an $80,000 Audemars Piguet timepiece priced at a mere $40,000, Pollak recalls. But when the buyer sent it to the manufacturer for servicing, it never came back. In its place was a letter explaining that the watch was not genuine and had been confiscated for infringing on the brand’s trademark. The buyer has no recourse, and even a seller with 100% positive feedback could claim he didn’t know the watch was a Frankenstein. For Pollak, this all comes down to the perennial problem of not knowing a watch’s provenance when buying from an unauthorized dealer. The same thing applies for watches that are stolen. The seller may not even know it, he explains, but once again, as soon as the watch is taken in for servicing, a company such as Rolex will immediately check the serial number against a database of stolen watches. If it comes up as stolen, you’ll never see it again. “According to Rolex, the watch either
belongs to the previous owner, an authorized dealer or the insurance company,” says Pollak. Either way, “It does not belong to you.” Authorized retailers provide a clear paper trail of a watch’s history, can ensure that a watch comes with a manufacturer’s warranty and that parts are available should it need repair, and provide a trustworthy resource if the customer is dissatisfied for any reason. You’re also dealing with someone who’s intimately familiar with the brand. “You have the ability to speak with someone who has received the proper training on the brand you are considering,” says Hank B. Siegel of Hamilton Jewelers. Siegel says his service center sees thousands of watches each year, and the main issues are attractive fakes, genuine cases with fake movements, watches that were originally genuine but have been altered with non-genuine parts, genuine watches with fake warranty papers, watches reported stolen, and finally, watches that are genuine but without proper import documentation and duties paid, which leaves them subject to confiscation. “The bottom line is, unless you are buying from a retailer explicitly authorized by the watch brand, it’s buyer beware,” says Marc Green of Lux Bond & Green. “Whether from an auction house, website, non-authorized dealer, or anywhere else, there is always the looming question of whether something is genuine.” Authorized dealers are also imperative when having a watch serviced, as an unauthorized repairman could use counterfeit parts and turn your genuine, papers-and-all watch into a Frankenstein without your knowing it. “Some say authorized service centers are too expensive and take too long,” says Green. “We say you get what you pay for. You may take your Mercedes to the corner garage for a minor adjustment, but not when major parts are needed. With watches, you want them serviced correctly with a guarantee.”
48
True luxury timepieces, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual shown here, can only be purchased from and serviced by authorized retailers.
CLINT J.
STEFAN M.
THERE’S A FUNNY THING THAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU BUILD FACTORIES IN THIS COUNTRY. IT’S CALLED JOBS.
VALISA M.
ALEX S.
AVAIL ABLE E XCLUSIVELY AT FINE WATCH & JEWELRY RETAILERS
timepieces
Desperately Seeking
DAYTONA What one young business exec wouldn’t do for the newest ROLEX… BY JARROD WEBER
M
y first recollection of a Rolex Daytona was this beautiful stainless steel work of art on my father’s wrist. Although I was too tied up with school, sports and dating to truly focus on watches, I couldn’t help but admire the pure beauty of this magnificent timepiece. Never since have I seen a watch I admired as much. So of course I felt tremendous joy when, upon graduating law school, my parents placed two green boxes with gold crown logos on our kitchen table. “Mom and I are so proud of you,” my dad said, somewhat choked up. “We think you’ve earned your first Rolex.” He then opened both boxes: in the first was a brand new Rolex Daytona, the other contained the Daytona I’d always admired on his wrist. He asked which I wanted. I immediately chose my father’s for its sentimental value. I can’t think of any possession I’ve ever had or will ever have that means more to me than that Daytona. I’m sure that at the right time, my son will acquire this priceless family keepsake.
But for right now, I want, I need, I crave, I simply must have the new Rolex Daytona with black dial and ceramic bezel. Ever since the extreme buzz surrounding its release at the Baselworld Watch Fair in March, I’ve been relentless in trying to figure out how to acquire this elusive prize. Most say there’s a five-year wait list... I can’t wait five weeks, let alone five years! The Daytona was the Rolex model first given out to winners at the Rolex 24 at Daytona Speedway. At some point in time, Paul Newman (himself a motorsports enthusiast and race car driver) started wearing it, and from then on, watch aficionados, collectors and guys in the know wanted nothing else. Since its launch in the 1960s, the watch has gone through a number of redesigns, all of which are now collector’s items that have appreciated significantly in value. The modern Daytona as we know it was released in the late 1980s; at that time, Rolex outsourced the movement to Zenith. In 2000, Rolex developed the capability to make the chronograph movement in house. They also made small cosmetic changes to the face of the watch (on the black dial, the sub-dials became silver rather than white; on the white dial, the sub-dials were also silver rather than black). For either dial option, purchasing a Rolex Daytona has become a dance of persuasion, persistence and finesse, convincing dealers to sell you one out of the maybe two or three watches they’ve been allotted. The release this year of the new stainless steel Daytona is the first significant design change since the ’80s. The bezel is now made of Cerachrom material that’s virtually scratch-resistant to ensure longevity. The sub-dials on the white dial are now black rather than silver, offering a bold contrast recalling Paul Newman’s iconic timepiece of yesteryear. Everyone wants one. All are told to put their names on the list. It’s an undisclosed list with obscure criteria: Are you famous? Are you quasifamous? Will you be photographed in the watch? With whom? People are determined to figure this out. I’ve been on the hunt, calling dealers throughout the Tri-State area as well as across the country. Since Rolex authorized dealers are not permitted to ship out of state, a buyer needs to purchase in person. I’ve researched the home state of my alma mater (Michigan) discovering cities I didn’t know existed (to which I’ll be traveling if they call me!). My wife is Romanian and fluent in the language; she’s phoned her home country and I believe I’m top of the list in Bucharest. Yesterday, my father and I attended a Rolex Daytona event. We tried on the watch and I’m more committed than ever to finding it. I’m on their wait list, but they were not all that encouraging. Leaving the event, I texted my wife: “Isn’t it time you visit your family in Romania?” (Editor’s note: Jarrod wrote this essay hoping it would move him up on the list. Sorry Jarrod, but you’ll have to wait in line with the rest of us!)
50
launches
RETURN OF THE
BLACK BAY
TUDOR’s new Black Bay
timepieces have collectors clamoring.
S
ince its launch in 2012 (with a red bezel), TUDOR’s Black Bay model has become a watch that conjures some serious street cred amongst watch collectors and enthusiasts given its strong nod to the historical watch references of TUDOR’s rich past. The essence of the Black Bay dates back to the 1954 TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner, reference 7922. This was the technical dive watch that spawned future iterations, which became the preferred tool watch of the Marine Nationale and the U.S. Navy beginning in the ’60s. Throughout this time, TUDOR Submariners evolved, showcasing new and subtle design details with each model update. Ultimately, the culmination of these refinements directly inspired the 2012 Black Bay model as it exists today. So much so that the Black Bay took home the coveted Revival Prize at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (often dubbed The Oscars of watchmaking). As of 2015, the Black Bay model was offered with a red, blue, or black bezel. In 2016, all colorways in the Black Bay line were fitted with new in-house manufacture movement MT5602, boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. There is no doubt as to why collectors are clamoring for these iconic, highly recognizable and historically important timepieces. The expansion of the Black Bay family in 2016 doesn’t end there; three entirely new models were introduced as well: Black Bay Bronze, Black Bay Dark and Black Bay 36. The Black Bay Bronze is TUDOR’s first-ever high-performance dive watch with bronze aluminum alloy case. The alloy was designed to patina over time, producing a variation of complementing warm tones. With its 43mm case, the Black Bay Bronze is now the largest case size available in the popular Heritage collection, housing TUDOR manufacture movement MT5601. The Black Bay Dark offers a fresh take on the stealth-like black aesthetic. With an all-over black PVD-treated steel case and bracelet, The Heritage Black Bay Dark has an entirely satin finish, reminiscent of military utility equipment. Like the Black Bay Red, Blue and Black, it features TUDOR movement MT5602. And, like every Black Bay and timepiece in the Heritage collection, this model comes with an additional fabric strap with purchase.
52
speed
THE CZAR
RACING
OF HISTORIC In conversation with ROLEX ambassador Murray Smith. BY DAVID A. ROSE
A
s a historic race car driver, Murray Smith has raced cars of his own as well as significant historic cars for their owners at iconic race circuits around the world. His membership in some of the sport’s most elite driver’s clubs has connected him with racing royalty. Rolex has entrusted Smith as consultant to its prestigious racing events: the Rolex 24 at Daytona, the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion and other highly respected races. And as chairman of the Lime Rock Park Historic Festival, he has taken a very popular regional event and elevated it to a world-class weekend. His interest in the sport began at a young age and in a quite unexpected way. “My father died when I was nine years old,” Smith begins. “He was a very good golfer and often played with a Thai prince who was a racing driver in the 1930s. When he died, I wrote an article for my school’s magazine about my father and the prince. The headmaster called me into his study one day and said, ‘Smith, one of our school directors, Mr. Wilkinson, has read your article and would like you to join him and some of his friends at a race at Silverstone.’ He told me I should stand outside the school gate that Saturday and they would pick me up. That day I waited as instructed and along they came in a 20/25 Rolls Royce Woody. At Silverstone we sat on the outside of Abbey Curve, and the first car that went by was David Murray in a 4CLT Maserati; I was very impressed because it made such a great row. And that was the beginning of my fascination with motor racing. “My mother lived in England near the Frazer Nash factory in Isleworth,”
Smith continues. “This was where the cars were built and from there they went all over Europe to race in places like the Mille Miglia and Targa Florio. I used to hang about and look at the cars through the window. One day a man came outside wearing a white shop coat and said to me, ‘I see you out here every day. Why don’t you come inside and have a look around?’ So I said thank you and went inside. He came back over to me a little later and told me that he had spoken to the owners of the company about me. They agreed it was okay for me to ‘come around any time, but don’t talk to any of the workers. If you have any questions come and find me.’ It turns out this man was Nelson Ledger, who had been Archie Frazer-Nash’s race car mechanic in the late 1920s and ’30s.” Over the years Smith became the quintessential historic race car driver, car collector and overall enthusiast. His Rolodex became a who’s who of motorsports greats. “One day I was contacted by a Rolex executive who asked me if I would do an interview at the Rolex 24 at Daytona,” he says. “I did it and apparently they liked it, because I’ve been doing it ever since. Working for Rolex on these events has been a pleasure and an honor. “Then the Louis Vuitton company contacted me to do a signature auto event in the USA. I told them I would do an event for them, as long as it was not at a golf club or in a field somewhere. I would put together great cars and show them on a street in Manhattan. For five years we ran an amazing car event in the middle of Manhattan at Rockefeller Center. At one point we had Formula 1 cars running down Fifth Avenue. That event was one of my favorite achievements.”
54
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profile
Master of
SWEET Sensation
Meet Wegmans’ JOE MCKENNA.
T
BY ADENA MILLER
here are currently only 10 certified master pastry chefs across the country. Joe McKenna, the director of bakery products for Wegmans, is one of them. Not only has he reached the highest certification level a chef can receive, but he’s also taken home gold and silver medals in the International Culinary Olympics. His chocolate and sugar centerpieces recently captured the attention of Nancy Mann, who describes McKenna’s creations as magical and even jewel-like, reaching beyond anyone’s expectations. We sat down with Chef McKenna for a closer look at his passion for pastry and how he’s helped transcend the desserts at Rochester’s most beloved food market. Born and raised in Philadelphia, McKenna’s
56
BLACK BAY BRONZE BRONZE CASE DIAMETER 43 MM WATERPROOF TO 200 M (660 FT) IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT
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TUDOR, BLACK BAY ®.
#TUDORWATCH TUDORWATCH.COM
systematic personality and interest in numbers led him to believe he was destined to become an accountant; however, he was a natural in the kitchen and his love of its environment proved a chef’s hat was just the right fit. He sharpened his skills at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where he graduated in 1977. With the goal to become a well-rounded executive chef, McKenna gained further experience in baking, butchering and working in the garde manger (the cold kitchen). When a rare opening came up to work alongside renowned Austrian Master Pastry Chef Gunther Heiland (who McKenna credits as a pioneer with chocolate in the United States), he jumped at the opportunity. “I really wanted to get more into the fine-tuning of pastry, because I thought it was fascinating: the exactness, the mental organization and the planning,” McKenna says. “I think every chef should become a pastry cook first, because it teaches you to be much more precise and makes you a better chef.” Chef Ewald Notter, a leading expert on contemporary confectionery arts, also had a major influence on McKenna’s career. “He’s a real artist and first introduced me to high-quality sugar work techniques, making it approachable,” says McKenna. Desserts became his sweet spot, where he’s remained ever since. After working in major hotel chains he served as a pastry instructor at the CIA for 14 years, until Wegmans came calling in 2003. Today, he oversees all the product development in the bakery commissary, with a focus on desserts. “What we’ve tried to do through the years is streamline things and make execution more efficient, while still focusing on high-quality desserts that taste great and are as healthy as possible.” He explained that the “Food You Feel Good About” initiative is
ongoing as Wegmans continues to work towards cleaner labels, including the removal of artificial colors from frosting that was announced last summer. McKenna is also looking to take the “Making Great Meals Easy” mantra further into the dessert arena, introducing grab-and-go options for at-home entertaining. Dessert trays, featuring 24 grazing-size sweets (ranging from tartlets to mousses) may be rolled out at select Wegmans locations this holiday season. lso around the holidays, intricate centerpieces (you may have spotted some already!) will be positioned as focal points for dessert displays that can be admired in select stores—all lovingly created by the artistic hands of the master pastry chef himself. “I like making pieces that are combination (such as sugar, marzipan, tempered chocolate and gum paste) because they have a lot of techniques to them.” For special occasions, McKenna’s talent also shines through in his expertly pulled and blown sugar centerpieces, which he executes into forms ranging from figurines to doves. The delicate process includes working with hot molten sugar and as it cools, pulling it back and forth to trap air into it (similar to pulling taffy). A pump is then used to blow air into the sugar to be manipulated, expanded and folded using his hands and tools to shape the objects down to the remarkable details, such as a bird’s wings and beak. While his prestigious honors include the American Culinary Federation’s Crystal Chef Award (given to the chef with the highest score on the master chef examination) to receiving a perfect score for his pastry display during the 1992 Culinary Olympics (yes, he confirmed it’s like Nadia Comaneci getting a perfect 10), for McKenna, the journey has been his greatest reward.
A
Food for Thought: So what is a Certified Master Chef (CMC)? Most people aren’t aware that the American Culinary Federation sets strict industry qualification guidelines and experience requirements that must be met before someone can even apply to take the Master Chef examination (an intense eight-day written and practical endurance test) and be granted the CMC certification. In fact, McKenna explains, the term “Master Chef” is often thrown around freely (and incorrectly) within the entertainment industry; at different times famous television chefs, kids or even food enthusiasts are hailed as Master Chefs. In reality, “It’s a proving ground to confirm the skill and where you are in your craft to be able to get that title,” McKenna clarifies. “People who have gone through the rigors of obtaining that level of Master Chef learn to be humble, because they know there’s always going to be someone who’s better and faster, and they know what it took to get there.”
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food
NUEVO
MEXICO Zarandeado adobo-marinated sea bass, charcoal grilled with Miraflores ratatouille
O
We’re not talking about the state of
ne thousand miles south of San Diego, I’m seated at the marble bar of the Hilton Los Cabos’ El Meson restaurant (a farm-to-fork and sea-to-table food spot), where I’m chopping a potpourri of ingredients for what will be lunch—a unique guest experience the hotel can arrange upon request. Before me is a basket overflowing with the freshest ingredients I’ve ever seen, for a tortilla soup and guacamole. I know how BY SHIRA fresh the produce is because only two hours earlier I hand-picked the cilantro, radishes, tomatoes, peppers, arugula, corn, edible wildflowers and a dozen other delights from the verdant, fertile grounds of the Huerta Tiky Cabo farm alongside Chef Mauricio Lopez. As the Hilton’s post-Hurricane Odile culinary asset, Mexico’s celebrity chef brings a culinary genius with a heavy helping of sustainability to his mixing bowls. Rather than focus on flying in fine products from far-flung locations, he’s got farmer Gilberto Verdugo just over an hour away, beyond the Sierra de la Giganta in Miraflores. Chef Lopez sources the fruits (and vegetables) of Verdugo’s labors to prepare uniquely tasty menus for guests who’ve included Selena Gomez, Justin Bieber, Adam Sandler… and me. While gathering greens with the sweet-faced, crinkly eyed chef, I got to know the man whose abuela’s kitchen back in his hometown of Acapulco first inspired him, ensuring that today his ingredients all
New Mexico, but rather a reimagined look at Mexico’s cuisine that’s haute
enough to tantalize the palate. Here, we chat with a leader in the kitchen, CHEF MAURICIO LOPEZ. LEVINE
grow within 100 miles of his kitchen.
Why did you decide to work in Cabo when your training could have gotten you a job anywhere? I can imagine tremendous places like Paris and New York, where you can bring in the best-quality products, but I have farmers who have a lot of love for their products. I gain creativity from that.
Can you give me an example? When I saw the zucchini flowers today my imagination was like, “I can do this, and this and this.” I’m really impressed with how the farmers worry about the products; they love them. So I care very much about all the great ingredients I have in front of me. I love when I hear, “Chef, I have a new product for you; you need to use it in your dishes!” The farmers give me ideas; they say, “Do it roasted.” And then that gets my imagination working, a revolution in my mind.
Tell me about your food memories from Acapulco. When my abuela started cooking, the house smelled delicious—steaks with cumin, onions, garlic, pepper. She would let me smell the pan. We children thought it was meatballs. She would tell us to go outside because she wanted it to be a mystery. I would look to see the ingredients and
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then imagine the seeds, the onion, the garlic and the cumin that she put into it.
catch and make my food. I also like cheese, prosciutto and pasta. I love pasta more than enchiladas—and I like enchiladas. But the truth? Sopes made by my wife.
Do you cook for your grandma and your mom now? How does she make them for you?
They love how I cook because I show them how they can make another kind of preparation with their recipes.
Simple: corn, a little oil, salsa, cheese, onions and cream. That’s it! That makes me happy! No salmon. No foie gras. No caviar. Sopes.
How old were you when you started cooking? Seventeen. I was one of 15 kids trained to be future chefs for a high-end company. I was one of two guys from Mexico. I won the contest when I was 19 and they sent me to Cancun to start my new life. I trained two-andhalf years from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. with three chefs from Asia and France. Now I create my own style of cuisine.
And when you are feeling fancy, what do you like? Foie gras of course. Also the seafood in Italy, the carbonara pasta in Rome. They use what I love: tomatoes, oil, garlic, basil. That’s it. Simple and easy.
That is your food philosophy: easy, delicious, clean and fresh.
How would you describe your food? A little of everything. I like Italian food. Mexican was one of the last cuisines that I learned. I like simple freshness. I like farm-to-table.
Yes. I have the ocean before me. I have fish. I add the ingredients, what’s in front of me. I don’t have to go to Europe for foie gras, or to Chile for salmon. Everything is here!
You don’t always keep it simple. You got very detailed in your collaboration with the Hilton’s Eforea Spa and its director, Adriana Tello.
What is an ingredient you don’t have that you want? I don’t need anything else, I have everything. Why do I need caviar if I have really good, fresh fish here? I have really good tuna! Japanese come here to Mexico for our tuna.
When I saw the inside of the spa I saw the little tables, and all the little brushes and bottles, and I thought, “I can do something like this with food.” My chefs can do something very special right in front of the guests, with stations and little details, a food menu that reflects the spa.
You studied with great chefs and mentors. What is the greatest lesson you’ve learned?
What would be your last supper?
The best, most important and unique ingredient that I can put on my plate is love.
I was born in Acapulco so I like my resources. I like to be on the ocean and
SALUDE TO BITTER HONEY! Here in Rochester, Zack Mikida and Josh Miles are the visionaries behind Bitter Honey, the newest authentic Mexican restaurant on track to open its doors at 127 Railroad Street in the Public Market this December. Mikida (a Buffalo transplant) helped start the bar program at the Revelry, and when an industry trip took him to Mexico, the country’s culture and cuisine stole his heart. “I wanted to bring something that was so special to me to Rochester,” he explains. Today, he regularly travels south of the border in an effort to bring the right tools, techniques and authentic flavors to his high-quality ingredients, which along with a talented staff, will make up the heart and soul of Bitter Honey. Mikida points out that we’ve all been introduced to Mexican cuisine in some way, but he wants guests to experience a new idea of what that could be—from freshpressed tortillas to a pork shoulder slow roasting and dripping with pineapple on an al pastor spit to tilapia served in a giant banana leaf. For the bar program, Mikida confirms the distilled agave-based spirits that define Mexico will have a prominent role by way of a large selection of mezcal and tequila options. To further excite customers about trying and learning about new spirits, flights and educational seminars will be designed to make the offerings more identifiable. While Mikida confidently steps into his operations partner role at Bitter Honey, he recalls that the storytelling and performance of bartenders is what drew him into the industry seven years ago. “I love bartending, and I don’t ever not want to be behind the bar, especially my own,” he confirms. And that’s where he’ll remain, to continue passionately sharing his own learned skills and stories. —Adena Miller
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FROM LEFT: Mezcal flights, Torta Ahogada (house-made bolillo, slow cooked carnitas, pickled red onion, chile de arbol), Elotes (charred corn, cotija, lime, chili guajillo)
food &wine
A local food and drink blog helping you embrace new experiences and fall in love with Rochester, NY.
5 Places
To Get Your Poutine Fix
The beloved Canadian dish of poutine has found a home right here in Rochester. In its traditional form, poutine is comprised of crispy french fries smothered in beef gravy, with creamy cheese curds and herbs on top. You will find the French-Canadian comfort food at the local eateries listed below, with each putting its own signature stamp on it. For the love of poutine, I encourage you to stop by all five spots to get your fix of the unique dish that knows no season, no time of day, no boundaries at all. Good poutine should be an essential part of your routine. #TRUTH. BY SIR ROCHA SAYS BLOGGER LINH PHILLIPS, SIRROCHASAYS.COM
Le Petit Poutine If you’ve never tried our local food trucks, let Le Petit Poutine be your first! Co-owners Lizzie Clapp and Ronnie McClive are bringing all that poutine goodness straight to our Rochester community. Clapp grew up with family in Canada and has memories of eating poutine from a broken down bus-turned-wagon down the river. Her love for the dish turned into a business dream that we all know as Le Petit Poutine. Here you can find everything from your traditional poutine to a breakfast variety to some bangin’ specials like Vegan Curry Lentil Poutine or the Messy Miss (Sloppy Joe). These ladies pride themselves on using highquality, fresh ingredients, including locally sourced Shtayburne Farms cheese curds. Stop by the truck for a friendly smile and to-die-for grub! Poutine to put in your belly: Breakfast Poutine (served with an egg over easy, bacon, beef gravy and fresh thyme). lepetitpoutine.com Follow @LePetitPoutine on Facebook and Twitter for food truck locations info@lapetitepoutine.com
Tap & Mallet
Orbs Restuarant
If you’re looking for a killer beer list and pub food at its finest, look no further! Tap & Mallet is your destination. Co-owner Joe McBane, an Englishman and beer fanatic, had dreams of building a world-class beer bar from a young age. That he did. Tap & Mallet has earned its reputation for being Rochester’s best bar for beer over the last seven years in City Newspaper. Not only are the rotating draft lines impressive, but so are the poutine specials. Five different kinds of poutine hang out on the menu: Bacon & Scallion, Breakfast, Buffalo Chicken, Traditional Beef Gravy and Vegetarian. It’s safe to say that there’s a poutine for everyone on this menu. All fries are hand cut, gravies are made inhouse, and cheddar curds are sourced locally from Yancey’s Fancy. Craft beer and poutine? Yes, please!
Take a drive over to South Ave. and there you will find a gem called Orbs Restaurant. Owners Bob and Sue Caranddo had a vision of opening up a small restaurant built in a strong community. They were enamored by the thriving culture and unity within the South Wedge, thus they opened up Orbs in July of 2014. Chef Steven Lara (rock star chef) takes advantage of local ingredients to make each dish shine, especially the poutine. The potatoes are sourced from Williamson Farms, the cheese curds are made from First Light Creamery milk and the gravy is rendered from Hudson Valley ducks. It doesn’t stop there; the protein options have ranged from wild boar to smoked pork cheek, pheasant, short rib and so on. Top it with a fried egg and this is what your wildest poutine dreams are made of!
Poutine to put in your belly: Bacon & Scallion Poutine (fries, cheese curds, housecured bacon, scallions and vegetarian or beef gravy).
Poutine to put in your belly: Orbs Poutine (parmesan fries, Guinness cheddar, duck fat gravy, house queso fresco, fried egg and smoked paprika).
tapandmallet.com 381 Gregory St., Rochester 585.473.0503
orbsrestaurant.com 758 South Ave., Rochester 585.471.8569
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Lento Lento restaurant was a pioneer in bringing farm-to-table to Rochester. Back in 2007, it was a concept that was generally unheard of compared to the way it’s gone mainstream today. Serving locally sourced, sustainable, seasonal food is ingrained in the DNA of chef and owner Art Rogers. In 2015, Rogers was nominated as James Beard Award Semifinalist for Best Chef in the Northeast. Not only is Chef Rogers a big deal in the culinary world, but so is his poutine. The traditional poutine offered at Lento is made using local Kennebec potatoes and First Light Creamery cheese curds, and smothered in duck gravy. If you’re feeling adventurous, make sure to add the Schrader Farms smoked bacon or Hudson Valley foie gras. Are you salivating yet? Because I am. Poutine to put in your belly: Traditional Poutine (duck fat frites, duck gravy and First Light Creamery cheese curds, add on bacon or seared Hudson Valley foie gras). lentorestaurant.com Village Gate Square, 274 Goodman St. N, Rochester 585.271.3470
Buta Pub Chef and co-owner Asa Mott got weary of doing French and Italian cuisine and felt compelled to share the beautiful flavors of Asian cuisine, from Japan to China to Vietnam. He opened ButaPub, which offers the feel of an American pub with the influences of Asian street food. You can find good ol’ American classics like cheeseburgers contrasted with Asian delights like flavorful ramen with freshmade noodles. But the standout dish we have to talk about is the Oyako Poutine. This dish is inspired by a Japanese egg and rice bowl dish called Oyakodon, which means “mother and child.” Instead of rice, Mott uses fries topped with chicken confit, kimchi, pickles, chicken-based gravy and melted cheese curds, topped with a sunny-side up egg. Make sure to order the Korean-Style Chicken Wings and stop in for brunch. You won’t regret it. Poutine to put in your belly: Oyako Poutine (chicken confit, ButaPub gravy, kimchi, local cheese curds and fried egg). butapub.com The Historic German House, 315 Gregory St., Rochester 585.563.6241
wine
SPARKLING DIVERSIONS
I
n recent years, Americans have developed a renewed passion for sparkling wines beyond Champagne. While Italy is best known for Prosecco, Lambrusco and BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON Moscato, people are now discovering Franciacorta, a more complex sibling. Made in the metodo classico (or “Champagne method”), where secondary fermentation—the bubble part—occurs in the bottle rather than in steel tanks, bottles age at least 25 months for non-vintage and at least 37 months for vintage or millesimato wines before they are released. The Franciacorta DOCG (a region designated for control and quality of production) lies in Lombardy at the base of the Alps in northern Italy. Elegant, rustic vineyards stand on low slopes and broad valleys below daunting dolomitic Alpine peaks. Sparse trees, gravelly limestone soils and crystal clear lakes reflect the (relatively) cool weather conditions perfect for making bright, tart bubblies commonly evoking hints of pear, papaya, grapefruit and apple. “Franciacorta gives much of the same wonderment of brioche and hazelnut aromas as Champagne, but with refreshing hints of citrus, and a persistent effervescence,” notes wine educator Keith Beavers of VinePair.com. Beavers was part of a nationwide series of “Bubble Boot Camp” seminars this year organized by CitySip.com, of which one was a multi-day “Fun With Franciacorta” event in New York City. Though Italians and Romans have been making still wines in this part of Lombardy for millennia, sparkling wine is a newcomer: winemaker Franco Ziliani produced the first 3,000 bottles in 1961 while working for Count Guido Berlucchi (credited with dubbing wine “Franciacorta” for the first time). The appellation achieved DOC status in 1967 and DOCG in 1995. Today a number of stellar brands are available, notably Bellavista, Ca’ del Bosco and Berlucchi. Many wine writers and sommeliers consider Franciacorta Italy’s best sparkling wine and the one that, like Champagne, can cellar for years or decades. “With a total production that is only 1/20th of the production of Champagne and 1/30th of the production of Prosecco, Franciacorta will continue to focus on a natural approach to the winemaking process, and quality over quantity,” says Giulio Galli, managing director of TMT USA, which imports Bellavista. “We see an evolution where sparkling wines are no longer relegated to celebratory occasions, but are consumed in many different situations by a growing number of people.” Not everything elegant needs cost an arm and a leg: most Franciacortas are nonvintage, ranging between $15 and $35. But if it’s luxury expressions you seek, you have options. The Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Cleminti Rosé ($100) is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from 30-plus-year-old vines, with all steps of vinification and aging taking place in oak casks. And last year, Bellavista released a limited magnum opus (in magnum bottles) called Meraviglioso. The blend of six premium vintages from over the past 30 years will run you between $500 and $800 a bottle—if you can find one.
FRANCIACORTA, Italy’s “secret” sparkling wine.
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grapparoc.com
BRIDAL
SHUTTERSTOCK
A SPECIAL WEDDING SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE
bridal
natural
Wedding hair is having a boho moment. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
WONDERS TOP TRENDS When asked what today’s brides are requesting most, hairstylist Emily Carcaramo of Once Upon a Bride doesn’t hesitate. “Natural, natural, natural!” she replies. Carcaramo, who also styles celebrities for editorial and television appearances, always encourages brides to consider textured updos or half-up styles for longevity purposes. “But for those brides set on wearing their hair down, go for natural-looking waves. And no matter how thick your hair is, I suggest adding extensions so the volume translates for your photos and doesn’t fall flat halfway through the festivities.” Angelo David, who styles hair on-location for celebs like Coco Rocha and Christie Brinkley as well as in his eponymous NYC salon, couldn’t agree more. “Many women wish they had thicker hair, and on their wedding of all days, they should feel like the best version of themselves. We can match Couture Extensions to your hair so you look like yourself, only better, and your style will hold up all day.”
While messy, piecey hair can look great in photos, brides getting married outdoors should avoid having too many loose strands. (Same goes for brides who have outdoor photo sessions scheduled before or after the ceremony.) You never know when a gust of wind might come along and turn your style from boho to bedhead.
In! Natural Texture Out: Pageant-Perfect Ringlets In! Over-Ear Embellishments
Out: Princess Tiaras
In! Budding Blooms Out: Birdcage Veils 70
LEAVE IT TO THE PROS Though “undone” hairstyles may look effortless, they’re often anything but. Many actually comprise several intricate steps and are best left to a trained professional. Even if you consider yourself a whiz with the hot tools, this is one time you should call for backup. Kate Middleton famously did her own makeup for her April 2011 wedding to Prince William, but she knew enough to trust the pros with her tresses on that allimportant day.
TOP IMAGE COURTESY OF CLAIRE PETTIBONE, INSET IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVID’S BRIDAL
LOCATION, LOCATION
CUSTOM | STYLED | PLANNED
SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL EVENTS
SIMPLYBEAUTIFULEVENTS.COM|BY APPOINTMENT|585.506.9274
bridal
Out of THE BOX
Personalize your special day by throwing away the rule book. BY JULIANNE PEPITONE
THE PARTY DOESN’T STOP HERE
ALTERNATIVE TREATS TAKE THE CAKE Artfully arranged cupcake towers became the trendiest way to ditch the wedding cake a few years ago, but now all kinds of alternatives exist—many of which don’t include cake at all. Donut towers: Like a Little Black Dress, this cake alternative can be dressed up or down: stacks of apple cider donuts with milk for a cozy-casual fall wedding, or carefully constructed towers of ganache-iced confections alongside espresso at more elegant affairs. Donut towers can look more traditional, too: Philadelphia-based Federal Donuts constructs displays of its treats on a tiered stand and adds decorative elements like flowers and ribbons, if desired. Ice cream: Think DIY sundae bars packed with toppings like decadent fudge and buttery toffee bits. Or build-it-yourself ice cream sandwich tables with loads of flavor options and gooey cookies to mix and match. For a pricier but super-fun treat, hire a good old ice cream truck to roll up as the celebration winds down. Tipsy Cones is a grown-up version of the Mr. Softee truck, offering alcoholic flavors like whiskey mash, drunken French toast and watermelon mojito ice. Throwback treats: Yes, weddings are about joining together as adults, but dessert inspires pure childlike joy. Los Angeles’ Cake Monkey specializes in gourmet versions of childhood faves like Ho Hos, Oreos and Little Debbies, whipped up with high-quality ingredients like bittersweet chocolate and fleur de sel.
The wedding was perfect, the reception was a blast… and now, the DJ is packing up as the venue staff turns on all the lights. It’s a bummer when the party comes to a close, but the fun doesn’t have to stop there. Planned wedding after-parties are on the rise, but informal post-nuptial hangouts are an easy way to keep the revelry going past midnight. A simple option: Rent space at a bar that’s within walking distance of the reception venue. Beach brides and grooms might invite guests to a post-bash bonfire, while winter couples can host a cozy s’moresroasting session with spiked coffee. Massachusetts teacher Jessica Dougherty and her husband Kerry opted to plan a post-wedding bowling session, complete with custom “Team Jerry” shirts, for their special day. They chose Point Lookout Resort in Maine specifically because the complex offered loads of fun options on the grounds, and they wanted to help create a full weekend getaway for their guests. “It was so funny to see the pairings—my high school friend’s husband bowling with Kerry’s friend from Italy,” Dougherty said. “But the real point was to have some downtime with the people who mean the most to us. I know it sounds a little corny, but we wanted the love, the moment, to last as long as possible.”
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ANYTHING GOES Rigid wedding-party rules once required matchymatchy dresses and an equal number of ’maids and ’men. But selecting the party is meant to honor the people in your life, regardless of gender, age or any centuries-old guidelines. Now, anything goes: a “bridesman,” “best woman,” or “man of honor,” and the 89-year-old who served as a bridesmaid in her granddaughter’s Pennsylvania wedding last year. Burberry employee Katelyn Venezia, 30, opted to forgo the traditional wedding party altogether for her July 2016 nuptials—but she still honored her closest friends, sans fuss. “I didn’t want them to feel pressure or strings attached,” Venezia explains. “I felt the practice of getting everyone together to try on dresses and then having them spend hundreds on something they won’t wear again was outdated.” So she wrote 10 girlfriends letters thanking them for their friendship and explaining her plan: she wanted the group to get ready together the morning of the wedding, but there would be no formal procession down the aisle and no matching gowns. The cards included an inspiration board, and Venezia invited each woman to choose her own dress for the wedding in one of those colors. “I wanted to let the girls know they are so special to me,” she says. “That’s what’s important— the friendships, not the bridesmaid dress.”
bridal
Propose with one of these trending styles and post the good news!
#SHESAIDYES BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE
W
hite, yellow, or rose gold? Round, square, or cushion cut? Classic, modern, or vintage style? When deciding on an engagement ring and wedding band, the choices may seem overwhelming. “We found that one bride-to-be went online and actually looked at 3,800 engagement rings in one day,” chuckles Bernadette Baillie, director of education for TheKnot.com. “That’s huge dedication!” Baillie recalls the story while discussing the results of her popular wedding site’s 2016 Luxury Bridal Jewelry & Engagement Ring Study, for which The Knot surveyed 13,000 Millennial couples. To help get your own research underway, we also spoke with jewelry expert Benjamin G. Guttery about what’s trending in wedding ring designs, diamond cuts and colors, precious metals and more. Guttery, a GIA graduate/jewelry trend forecaster/brand advocate, is also founder of the blog Third Coast Gems.
gems are in vogue for bridal,” says Guttery, “especially ruby, emerald and all shades of sapphire.” He mentions aquamarine, too. Light blue gems and pink stones have notably become more sought-after in bridal since the Pantone Color Institute named Serenity (a pastel blue) and Rose Quartz (a light pink) as the 2016 Colors of the Year. A pink gemstone set in rose gold is a beautiful, feminine, tone-on-tone look. Just the same, says Baillie, “Our latest research shows that 68% of brides still want 18K or 14K white gold for their wedding rings.” That said, more and more, as women look for artisanal flair, they’re buying yellow gold, reports Guttery. “Specifically, rich and buttery 18-karat. The glow it gives off is radiating, and the textures and patterns in yellow gold look great.”
Perhaps celebrity engagements (Blake Lively, Julianne Hough) have played a role in its popularity, for never in recent times has the oval been so in demand. “This fancy diamond cut is one way a bride can have something out of the ordinary,” says Guttery, “and depending on how the stone is cut it can really elongate the finger and look very graceful on your hand.” Nonetheless, according to The Knot’s study, 49% of modern brides still prefer the traditional round, while princess cuts come in as second most popular.
GEM AND METAL COLORS TO LOVE If you do decide on a classic round center diamond, another way to differentiate is by choosing a stone other than a white diamond. “Colored
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Whether in the precious-metal surface of your wedding ring, the prongs and bezels holding the gems, or the overall aesthetic, today’s bride is looking for detail, Guttery emphasizes. “Even if a ring itself is simple, the head may have scrollwork, a shank might have an unusual pattern of pavé diamonds and cutouts, or the focus gem may be held by artistic prongs. Also, a lot of today’s designers are re-interpreting elements from past eras—Edwardian or Deco, for example—and incorporating them into their signature bridal styles. Something I’m definitely noticing is more ornate scrollwork.” One last thing: Before you begin your search for that once-in-a-lifetime ring, be sure to ask your jeweler about two-stone designs, including bypass styles. It’s a retro silhouette that’s made its way into modern bridal—and lots of (soon-to-be) engaged women are falling in love with it.
IMAGES COURTESY OF HARRY KOTLAR, RAHAMINOV, PENNY PREVILLE
DESIGN ’N DETAIL
A FEW FAVORITE CUTS
bridal
Wedding planning can be an emotional roller coaster. We asked licensed marriage and family therapist Marissa Nelson for advice on how to stay calm and enjoy
10TIPS
this special time in your life. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER
TOP
OW TO DEAL WITH DIFFICULT IN-LAWS: Remember, marriage is a transition for everyone. Relationships improve with time, effort and shared experiences. Be patient, be kind, and most important, don’t take things personally. HOW TO MANAGE CONFLICT IN YOUR BRIDAL PARTY: If you are unhappy with a bridesmaid’s actions, express yourself, says Nelson. Calmly talk to your friend about what you needed from her, how she upset or disappointed you, and how together you can move forward. WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR PARENTS DON’T LIKE YOUR FIANCÉ: Sit down with your parents without your other half. Clarify what their concerns are. Let them know that, while you understand, they should trust the way they raised you, Nelson advises. And remind them you know what’s best for you. Build respect and work towards acceptance through open lines of communication. HOW TO NAVIGATE WHO DOES AND DOESN’T MAKE THE GUEST LIST: It’s important to look around the room on your wedding day and have all the people that you love and have a bond with there, celebrating with you, says Nelson. Uninvited guests may be upset, but stick to your guns. Choose people because they’re special to you, not out of obligation. HOW TO GET YOUR GROOM INVOLVED: Your fiancé can contribute in different ways. Some give financial or emotional support. Others help closer to the wedding day, running errands or picking people up from the airport. Engage your fiancé so he feels his contribution matters, says Nelson. And don’t get upset if he isn’t involved in exactly the way you imagined. HOW TO KEEP THE PLANNING AS FUN AS THE WEDDING DAY: This wedding is a reflection of your personality and vision, so have fun and get
creative with unique touches that reflect who you are as a couple, says Nelson. Be silly. Enjoy being a bride and take it easy. This is time for pampering, and excitement about the future as a Mrs. HOW TO DEAL WITH LAST-MINUTE NERVES: Nerves are to be expected as you step into this new phase of your life. But don’t let those thoughts spiral to overwhelming you. Call on your bridesmaids or maid of honor to rally around you, with love, to calm you and assure you everything is going to be okay. HOW TO BE TRUE TO YOUR WEDDING DREAM EVEN IF OTHERS WANT SOMETHING ELSE: Being true to who you are as a couple means having a clear vision for your day, maintaining boundaries and keeping a united front. Know which wedding details are non-negotiable and which you are willing to compromise on, so that your family can be included in the process, suggests Nelson. HOW NOT TO FEEL OVERWHELMED EVEN WITHOUT A WEDDING PLANNER: Don’t try to take on every task by yourself or suffer in silence with a long to-do list. The key word is delegate. Have a team of friends and family that you trust to help execute your wedding vision. Most importantly, says Nelson, take everything one day at a time. SINGLE BEST ADVICE FOR THE WEDDING DAY: Detach yourself from the idea of perfection. You are stepping into and preparing for marriage. If some things don’t go as planned, it’s okay. Be present. Soak in all that is a day to celebrate love. Marissa Nelson is a licensed marriage and family therapist, an AASECT certified therapist and the founder of IntimacyMoons Couples & Singles Retreats.
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insurance
Take no shortcuts when it comes to safeguarding your treasures.
F
SAFE
or cinephiles, the phrase “jewelry insurance” may conjure up scenes of Cary Grant as a French Riviera cat burglar in To Catch a Thief, trading quips with the austere agent from Lloyd’s of London. In fact, insuring precious gems may be a tad less glamorous, but certainly a necessity for nearly everyone—not just wealthy dowagers showing off their jewels around a roulette table. It starts when a man decides he’s ready to propose to his sweetheart. From the moment he leaves the jeweler he should have a policy in place covering the cherished engagement ring—even before he plans his elaborate proposal scenario involving the bottom of a Champagne glass or a golf hole. “Ideally you would receive an appraisal and insure an engagement ring right when you purchase it,” says Trina Woldt, VP and chief marketing officer of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, one of the oldest in the business. Most jewelry insurance claims are not due to theft but loss, “which includes accidental loss and mysterious disappearance,” she explains. “That could be anything from the dog eating it to having it fall from cold fingers while shoveling snow. And you’d be surprised how many people lose their rings on their honeymoon because they’re not used to wearing a ring and forget that fingers shrink in water.” And on the off chance that a dashing cat burglar does enter your home, be advised that your homeowner’s policy might not provide the ideal coverage. It’s also important to note that filing a jewelry claim under your homeowner’s might cause your premium to increase dramatically. Jeweler’s Mutual plans are comprehensive and cover any kind of loss or damage. Its policies offer to repair or replace a lost item through the jeweler of your choice. In general, specialty jewelry insurance costs about 1 to 2 percent of the value of an item per year, so a $10,000 ring would only cost
BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
THAN SORRY
$100 to $150 per year to insure. “It’s a really affordable way to safeguard items that have both monetary and emotional value,” says Woldt. Deductibles can be as low as zero. (Watch insurance is its own category, but operates identically.) To decide whether you need it for an engagement ring, Grandma’s pearls, or other items, look at each of them and stop to evaluate your instinctive emotional reaction to finding out that they’ve gone missing. The stronger the emotional reaction, the more reason to insure. For those who want even more peace of mind and are more worried about theft than loss, there’s the option of acquiring a safe in addition to insurance. New York-based Empire Safe is a family business in operation since 1904, catering to both businesses and residences. Empire Safe’s products range in price from $2,500 to $35,000, and are recommended for residences with $100,000 worth of jewelry or more. Once again, cinephiles with vivid imaginations are probably picturing stealthy thieves with high-tech equipment trying to pick a lock. In truth, what a thief really wants to do is either break open your safe or move it, so avoid an inexpensive one. “Ninety-nine percent of people selling safes don’t deal with high-end clients,” says Empire Safe president Richard Krasilovsky. “They’re selling safes that can be opened with common tools in the house.” The primary deterrent is weight. Empire Safe designs apartment safes that weigh 500 pounds and are secured to the floor. “They’re strong and heavy and the objective is to intimidate the burglar so he’ll go to shop elsewhere.” In houses, a ground-floor safe can weigh over 1,000 pounds, come armor-plated on all sides, and offer fire protection as an added bonus. Because when it comes to your valued keepsakes, do you really want to take chances?
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IMAGE COURTESY OF PARAMOUNT / THE KOBAL COLLECTION
Better
PURE FORM
MANN’S JEWELERS ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS
FALL/WINTER 2016